The Observer - 04.10.2026 — 2026-10-04

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🧭 今日主编程控导读:聚焦「普京的非洲新兵:被诱骗参加俄罗斯战争的肯尼亚人」、「以为我们有债券问题?对于陷入困境的法国而言,“le spread”只会进一步恶化」等核心政经议题

今日《The Observer - 04.10.2026》全报共收录 405 篇核心报道。在政经治理、法理制度与公共政策层面,版面重心聚焦于:普京的非洲新兵:被诱骗参加俄罗斯战争的肯尼亚人(随着乌克兰冲突接近第六个冬天,数百名原以为将从事文职工作的年轻人发现自己身处战场。弗朗西斯科·加西亚(Francisco...);以为我们有债券问题?对于陷入困境的法国而言,“le spread”只会进一步恶化(分析);康奈尔大学强奸指控原告在网络上“遭受围攻”,美国文化战争再次引发分歧(埃德·赫尔莫尔(Ed Helmore)写道,在保守派人士支持、学生谴责被指控袭击的七名男子的同时,数字侦探们正试图揭露其...)。 在本土文化与城市记忆方面,今日重点关注「综合要闻 1」。

3,000 人
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🎭 本期时代思潮与社会文化雷达

🎭 当代文化观察

《The Observer - 04.10.2026》本期社会思潮与时代切片

本期特写报道深入探索社会结构转型与文化心态变迁,详见【📖 双语精读】各专题深度报道。

🗂️ 全版面分栏导览目录 (点击标题直达正文)

📚 全报导读与雷达完备目录:共收录本期全部 405 篇文章(100% 全量覆盖)

📑 🎭 文化、书评与社会生活 (Culture, Books & Life) (39篇)

Esther Rantzen made it impossible to ignore our struggle for assisted dying Sarah Wootton

在过去的几天里,我们听到了很多关于在埃丝特·兰岑(Esther Rantzen)陪伴下成长的人们的故事。关于那些聚集在一起观看《这就是生活!》(That's Life!)的家庭,关于那些生活被“儿童热线”(Childline)改变的年轻人,以及那些通过她创建的“银色热线”(Silver Line)找到陪伴的老年人。 我想谈谈争取辅助死亡的运动是如何在埃丝特的推动下壮大的。 在经历了非凡的社会改革生涯后,埃丝特在 2023. 被诊断出患有四期肺癌,随后才开始…

周一 1 min
Monday

我即滑翔:滑翔即我。我的翼展几乎是身体长度的三倍。看:没有尾巴。或者说,没有一个能让你注意到的尾巴;我鲜红色的脚伸在它之外。这种无尾结构极大地减少了阻力,而这正是极端的滑翔生活得以实现的原因。要过上这样的生活,需要经过多年艰苦习得的卓越技巧。

周二 1 min
Tuesday

看看那些年幼的孩子,比如我的儿子,或者我的小女儿。他们看起来一点也不像我。首先,他们有尾巴——目前还不能没有尾巴生活。他们就像骑着带辅助轮自行车的年轻人类:在像成年鸟类那样飞行之前,他们需要习得基本技能,而且至关重要地,需要建立对这些技能的信心。我们需要长达八年时间才能成熟,比大多数猛禽都要长。我们要学习的东西更多。

'Those are rare talents, people who can be the beating heart of a big show'

博物馆员工。她帮助启动了我们的年度员工奖,并且一直深度参与其中。” 当被问及是否愿意主持艺术展时,温克尔曼担心这会惹恼那些将她视为《舞动奇迹》(Strictly)中“那个穿橙色衣服的女孩”的观众。“我水平不够。我想尝试,但我不想展现太多版本的自己。” 她的许多版本都已绽放。当时 BBC One 节目单主管丹尼·科恩(Danny Cohen)在给温克尔曼《舞动奇迹》的工作机会时告诉她:“你的刘海太长了。我们年轻时都想当哥特风,对吧?但后来我们成熟了。”温克尔…

LIFE CHOICES BY HANNAH CROSBIE

一位品味引领者的日记 作为一名长期的网球爱好者,我决定不再在场边观看,而是亲自参与其中。我通过在我的 下周我们将练习反手球。“这样你就能两边都打得开了,”我的教练一边翻看手机一边说道,他并未意识到自己刚刚贡献了一个绝佳的笑点。我觉得仅凭经历这一刻,我的钱就花得值了——至于运动技能,管它呢。 为了重置我那疲惫不堪的神经系统,最近我一直在听很多氛围音乐。那些频率似乎能抚平内心的粗糙边缘。在 YouTube 上听了多年“适合放松 / 学习的 lofi hip-h…

What period of your life do you daydream about the most?

在我继父去世前的两年时间里。那时我刚刚创办了自己的服装品牌,我们两人都在家工作。他给予了我极大的支持,我很感激他能见证我的生活以一种令人兴奋的方式发生改变。 你最后一次偷东西是什么时候? 我有些朋友会从酒吧偷玻璃杯,结果由于某种原因,这些杯子最后都到了我家。我本人不偷——我喜欢我的玻璃器皿是配套的——但我确实在处理赃物。 你收到的最后一份礼物是什么?我最后一份有意义的礼物来自我的好朋友,她花了很多时间寻找一张名为

'Being a media darling can obscure important realities about clothing. Like, who is buying Diesel jeans for \$550 in this economy?'

Diesel 2026 秋冬时装秀造型 Martens 最终以班级第一名的成绩毕业,并在让-保罗·高缇耶(Jean Paul Gaultier)的同名品牌下工作。正是在那里,他意识到“当你从事时尚行业时,你必须真正热爱时尚。这不像有些工作你可以随到随走。它有时会让你感到非常痛苦,所以你必须为此做好准备。” 在那之后,Martens 知道他必须创立自己的品牌,部分原因是他“知道[自己]是一个非常糟糕的助手,永远无法在某个品牌工作室里做好辅助工作——我非常固执…

stars

高街男装正在迎来一次升级。现在,人们比以往任何时候都更容易以实惠的价格买到高质量的单品——从基础款到剪裁正装——部分原因是时尚界的知名人士被邀请接手我们熟知的家喻户晓品牌。以下是我们从最令人向往的系列中挑选的单品…… HELEN SEAMONS BRIAN DALY

In Epping, an open house founded on radical kindness

“只是想看看会发生什么,”作家、诗人、哲学家、画家、活动家,以及无政府主义朋克乐队 Crass 的共同创始人彭尼·林博(Penny Rimbaud)说道。他与他的创意伙伴、艺术家吉·沃彻(Gee Vaucher)坐在一起,身处一个像小屋一样温馨的木板空间,谈论着他们居住近 60 年的这座“开放之屋”的构思。他们不仅与彼此分享这里,还与一批轮换的访客分享,其中有些是朋友和艺术合作者,许多则是仅仅请求留宿的陌生人。“无论人们带什么来这里,”林博说,“我都愿意接…

“就在主干道上,这家二手书店的所有者收集了大量艺术电影风格的资料,并且经常接收私人收藏。这意味着他们拥有非常独特的艺术、建筑和设计类选集,远超常规水平。书架之间穿插着由当地艺术家创作的家具和艺术品。我经常在这里为公寓或其中一家店挑选一些小物件。”

Agenda 2-7

\- 现实生活:埃文·莫菲特(Evan Moffitt)访问艾米·怀恩豪斯(Amy Winehouse)的图书馆;斯蒂芬·阿姆斯特朗(Stephen Armstrong)寻找一位传统木工;埃拉·卡茨(Ella Katz)支持一家社交俱乐部;而朱德·罗杰斯(Jude Rogers)在“另类世界小姐”选美大赛中大放异彩 - 网格:一个新展览深入探讨游泳池的艺术 - 访谈:大卫·拜恩(David Byrne)谈人类的创造力及其最新巡演的拍摄

舞蹈 1 min
Dance

文艺复兴时期的悲剧、电影《贱女孩》(Mean Girls)以及 80 年代砍杀电影在卡洛斯·庞斯·格拉(Carlos Pons Guerra)的作品中相遇。 《爱德华二世》(Edward II)是由 DeNada 舞蹈剧场改编自克里斯托弗·马洛(Christopher Marlowe)的剧作。该剧将于 10 月 30 日在利兹的斯坦利与奥德里·伯顿剧院(Stanley & Audrey Burton Theatre)首演,随后开启巡演。

网格 2 min
The grid

瑞士一个小镇举办的一场展览,探讨了游泳池取代湖泊后的现状,将我们与水的关系置于框架之中。 在法语中,这个名字的意思是“湖”,而瑞士的勒洛克勒(Le Locle)小镇正是由其与水的关系所塑造的。随着城市扩张,这座与小镇同名的湖泊消失了;勒洛克勒美术馆(MBAL)的前馆长费德里卡·基奥凯蒂(Federica Chiocchetti)解释说,这导致了通过建设大型公共游泳池来进行补偿。 她在 MBAL 的最后一个项目——《一次坚实的湿润:想象中的游泳池》(For …

THERE IS A PATTERN TO EVERYTHING.

弗朗西斯·基思·罗宾斯 (FRANCIS KEITH ROBINS) 上帝数学如何拨乱反正 探索由弗朗西斯·基思·罗宾斯所著的《第四次降临》(The Fourth Coming),这是一部关于数学、意识以及社会未来的发人深省的探索之作。本书借鉴集合思维和客观推理,提出了一种理解世界并应对挑战的新方式。探索关于我们如何思考、生活以及塑造未来的不同视角。 运作的方式 - 现已发售

Home listening

CD、广播及在线古典音乐 Women and the Piano,苏珊·汤姆斯(Susan Tomes)著(Hyperion)。钢琴家兼学者苏珊·汤姆斯在成长过程中,从未有意识地演奏过任何女性作曲家的音乐。几十年后,她就这一主题写了一本书——《女性与钢琴:50个人生的历史》(Women and the Piano: A History in 50 Lives),并发现了她此前从未接触过的作品。 在她为 Hyperion 录制的新专辑中,她分享了研究成果,收…

Culture Club

“在蓝绿色的阿卡迪亚中,人物在颤抖与震动”:上方为保罗·塞尚的《浴者》,1890-92年。圣路易斯艺术博物馆。 描绘里维埃拉(Riviera)是对视觉的抚慰,且旨在提供娱乐。在接近结尾的部分,出现了三位在沿海公路上的演员——加里·格兰特、格蕾丝·凯利和莫伊拉·希尔勒的电影片段;而任何对其中部分画作看起来像广告而心存异议的人,可能会惊讶地发现,从马蒂斯到毕加索,这些艺术家在最后一个展厅中确实创作了那些旅游海报。 这里没有任何关于如今主导许多艺术展的政治暗示。…

The wyrd and the wonderful

秋季的儿童章节书以鬼魂、半神、分身以及陷入危机的家庭等故事,捕捉万圣节的惊悚与寒意。作者:Kitty Empire 这是惊悚季节的前夕。矛盾的是,由于恐怖类书籍现在全年发行,且更温和的恐怖形式正逐渐渗透到中年级儿童群体中,万圣节现在感觉不再像是一个年度出版盛事。 但对“诡谲”的追求依然存在。定居塞勒姆的青少年小说作者 Freddie Kölsch 以《Spindlewood》(Puffin, £8.99)开启了她的中年级处女作,这也是该系列的第一部。这部作…

How did you first learn about John Field?

我在托尔斯泰的书里遇到了他。托尔斯泰写了一部三卷本的自传,第一卷讲述的是他的童年。他描述了听母亲演奏约翰·菲尔德作品的情景。他描述了音乐的情绪、色彩和梦幻般的形态。我以前从未听说过约翰·菲尔德,当时我想:他是谁? 他身上有什么吸引您的吗?我找到了一本非常薄的约翰·菲尔德传记。传记中对他妻子的描写极少,这让我觉得很有意思。关于阿德莱德·佩谢隆(或称佩谢雷特)的内容可能不超过五个段落,但我们知道她出生在庞迪切里,并前往莫斯科。她想成为一名音乐家。这是一个极具吸…

Why did you focus on your characters' childhoods?

我曾与另一位小说家交谈,对方说:“为什么要费心写他们的童年?直接让他们以成年人的身份登场不就好了。”但这与我作为一个人的所有感受都背道而驰。让我们与约翰(John)和佩切雷特(Percherette)一起成长,去了解身处他们那小小身体中的感受,这一点至关重要。 当代文学中是否有足够的关于童年的优秀刻画?没有。我想知道这是否反映了我们的社会。当我的孩子们在幼儿园时,老师写了一封信投诉一篇新闻报道。她说:“所有的报纸在谈论儿童教育时,都将其视为对未来生活的准备…

[Puzzles] Guess the picture by Laura Cumming

本周问题:上图是什么,是谁的作品?答案将于下周日公布。 上周的细节展示了丹麦画家维尔海姆·哈默舍伊(Vilhelm Hammershoi)约 1900. 年创作的《艺术家之家的室内》(Interior from the Home of the Artist)左侧的椅子。哈默舍伊艺术中的静谧感是独一无二的。他满足于日复一日、年复一年地在同样的几间刷白房间里徘徊,描绘他几乎从未离开过的哥本哈根公寓中完美的寂静。房间里光秃秃的地板和擦亮的家具,刻意地显得空旷。门…

[Today] Pick of the Day The Reluctant Vampire BBC One, 6.40pm

这部流畅的成长喜剧改编自埃里克·莫雷康比(Eric Morecambe)的儿童小说,由 Alan Partridge 的编剧 Neil 和 Rob Gibbons 改编,并拥有一组令人印象深刻的喜剧演员阵容,精准地击中了观众的笑点。汤姆·戴维斯(Tom Davis)饰演吸血鬼之王维克多,而抢镜的伦尼·鲁什(Lenny Rush)饰演他的继承人瓦尔。瓦尔必须通过吸血鬼入会仪式,但有一个重大障碍:他实际上是个人类,这个秘密由他宠溺的母亲(Sian Cliffo…

Film Bram Stoker's Dracula

(弗朗西斯·福特·科波拉,1992) BBC One, 10.40pm 直到最近那部运气不佳的《巨灵之城》(Megalopolis)之前,这部电影曾是弗朗西斯·科波拉作为宏大意象创作者的最后一次辉煌。这部如幻觉般的戏剧将德古拉神话带回了它的喀尔巴阡根源,同时为类型片粉丝提供了丰富的哥特式意象。加里·奥德曼在饰演伯爵时贡献了他最成熟的表演,他的各种化身包括一名枯萎的贵族和一名像开膛手杰克般的维多利亚时代花花公子。薇诺娜·瑞德和基努·里维斯是陷入他蛛网的纯真之…

[Wednesday] Pick of the Day Carrie

Prime Video 布莱恩·德·帕尔马1976年改编自斯蒂芬·金小说的电影投下了深长且令人战栗的阴影,西西·斯派塞克饰演的拥有心灵感应能力的困扰青少年的标志性表演亦然。但这部由资深恐怖片大师迈克·弗拉纳根执导的八集剧集以极其震撼的方式开场,场景不仅包括学校体育馆,而且在舞会之夜整个小镇都被火焰吞噬。饰演Carrie White的萨默·H·豪威尔(Summer H Howell)令人惊叹。这个女孩——以及这部剧——正处于火热之中。CMc

Buckingham Palace: A Year in the Life 5, 8.35pm

现在是秋天,宫廷正准备迎接一系列重要的国事访问和宴会,这些是“复杂、后勤繁琐且外交高难度的走钢丝行为”。不过,并非所有客人都受欢迎,因为皇家捕鼠员正高度警惕季节性迁徙的啮齿动物,它们正试图升级自己的住所。此外,还将揭秘宫廷 3.69 亿英镑 翻新工程的更多秘密。KR

Film Poor Things

(约戈斯·兰斯莫斯,2023) Channel 4, 晚上10点 即便在约戈斯·兰斯莫斯(《龙虾》,《Bugonia》)的电影作品集中,这部黑色喜剧也因其大胆且绝对古怪的创作而脱颖而出——这一点同样适用于电影中那位独一无二的女主角。本片改编自阿拉斯代尔·格雷的小说,是一个女性主义版本的“弗兰肯斯坦”故事。威廉·达福饰演古怪的外科医生戈德温·巴克斯特,他在一名年轻女性(艾玛·斯通 饰)自杀未遂后将其复活,但为其更换了一个新大脑。巴克斯特的“创造物”贝拉本质上…

[TV streaming] Picks of the Week

回到 1995 年,诺埃尔·加拉格尔(Noel Gallagher)曾唱道:“请不要将你的生命交给 / 一个摇滚乐队 / 他们会将其全部挥霍。”观看《绿洲乐队:不要在愤怒中回头》(Oasis: Don't Look Back in Anger,迪士尼+,周五),看来我们当时并没有在听。该乐队 2025 年的回归巡演之所以成为一件大事,与其说是为了演出本身——歌曲很棒,但曲目单毫无变化,乐队成员原地不动,且混音效果好到像在听录音——不如说是为了它带来的文化冲…

Radio 4 2 min
[Tuesday] Radio 3

上午6:00《今日》(Today) 9:00《科学生活》(The Life Scientific) 9:30《心中所有》(All in the Mind) 10:00《女性时间》(Woman's Hour) 11:00《屏幕截图》(Screenshot) 11:45《去还是不去》(To Go or Not to Go) 12:00 新闻 12:04《呼叫你和我》(Call You and Yours) 下午1:00《世界》(The World) 1:45《…

Radio 4 2 min

上午6:00《今日》(Today) 9:00《多或少》(More or Less) 9:30《奥斯汀·泰斯在哪里?》(Where Is Austin Tice?) 10:00《女性时间》(Woman's Hour) 11:00《File on 4 调查》(File on 4 Investigates) 11:40 本周历史 11:45《去还是不去》(To Go or Not to Go) 12:00 新闻 12:04《你和我》(You and Yours)…

WATCH LIST

芭芭拉·艾伦(Barbara Ellen)推荐的其他佳作 (Netflix) 对约翰·斯坦贝克 1952 年小说的改编,由佐伊·卡赞(Zoe Kazan)执导,她是原版《伊甸之东》电影导演埃利亚·卡赞(Elia Kazan)的孙女。在缓慢的开局之后,佛罗伦斯·皮尤(Florence Pugh,见下图)和克里斯托弗·艾博特(Christopher Abbott)带来了生动的表演。 一部令人亢奋的惊悚剧,理查德·阿米蒂奇(Richard Armitage)在剧…

📑 🇪🇺 欧洲与地缘冲突 (Europe & Geopolitics) (28篇)

[THE OBSERVER VIEW | Road to joy] Andy Burnham's speech on Brexit and Europe could be historic, offering a chance to make the positive case for EU membership that was missed in 2016

希望在空中弥漫,因为终于有一位首相在脱欧问题上表现出了诚实 多年来,绝大多数英国选民一直认为脱欧是一个错误。终于,政治开始跟上步伐了。 无论安迪·伯纳姆是否能找到资金并投入政治资本将他的想法转化为行动,他上周在工党内部的演讲都将被铭记为在社会护理和选举制度改革方面的大胆之举。但他在脱欧问题上的诚实以及对欧洲的开放态度具有真正成为历史的潜力,原因有三。 首先,他表明自己并非“红墙”的囚徒;与基尔·斯塔默不同,他不准备在恐惧工党脱欧选民反叛的情况下执政。他承诺…

Widdecombe accused faces Farage charge

被指控谋杀安·维德科姆(Ann Widdecombe)的约书亚·克里(Joshua Kerry)于周五被指控策划针对奈杰尔·法拉奇(Nigel Farage)的恐怖行为。该指控涉及 2024 年 5 月至 2026 年 7 月期间涉嫌从事的恐怖活动。内政大臣沙巴娜·马哈茂德(Shabana Mahmood)表示:“不要让任何人产生误解:对任何政治人物的攻击都是对我们所有人的攻击。”克里于 7 月被指控谋杀维德科姆,后者曾任改革英国党(Reform UK)发…

Government scraps judge-only trial plan

大法官亚历克斯·诺里斯(Alex Norris)宣布,关于部分刑事审判仅由一名法官审理的提案已被放弃,这意味着更严重的案件将由陪审团审理。但被告将失去选择其案件由陪审团还是 治安法官审理的权利。复杂的欺诈案件仍将由法官审理,治安法官的量刑权将得到提升,以试图解决超过 80,000 宗案件的积压问题。这些变更将在下周返回下议院的《法院与法庭法案》中做出。 法国学生抗议学校状况 数千名法国青少年在学校外抗议, 《观察者报》新闻矩阵 对教室拥挤、设施不卫生以及教…

Burnham's shock statement on Europe stuns his colleagues in Westminster

首相关于“我们可以走得更远”的断言让白厅陷入混乱,因为事实证明,除了最亲近的顾问外,所有人都对他向重新加入欧盟迈出的大胆第一步毫不知情。蕾切尔·西尔维斯特(Rachel Sylvester)报道 当安迪·伯纳姆在工党大会上表示“脱欧带来的害处多于好处”,并且英国与欧盟的长期关系所有选项都在讨论之列时,数月来一直致力于欧洲政策的公务员们震惊了。“没有人预料到这一点,”一名白厅消息人士表示,“官员们完全懵了。这与他们一直以来工作的内容相去甚远。” “拥有更高的…

'My wife promised me we'd get a labrador. Now I find out they're fascist'

当汤姆·图根哈特(Tom Tugendhat)会见外国外交官或显贵时, 他会带他们去散步。大多数政治人物都有心仪的午餐地点;而这位外交大臣影子大臣则有偏好的行走路线。“散步时的交谈方式截然不同,”他说,“我通常在圣詹姆斯公园(St James's Park)周围走走。我也花了很多时间在巴黎的公园和柏林的花园里散步。去年我和一位奥地利部长在维也纳散步。在伊拉克和阿富汗也有很多有趣的地方。我在也门进行过一些很棒的徒步。如果你走在人们身边,比面对面坐着更容易展开…

Putin's African recruits: the Kenyans lured into fighting Russia's war

随着乌克兰冲突接近第六个冬天,数百名原以为将从事文职工作的年轻人发现自己身处战场。弗朗西斯科·加西亚(Francisco Garcia)报道 起初,斯蒂芬(Stephen)看起来并不是一个话很多的消息来源。这名三十出头的肯尼亚男子最近刚从乌克兰东部的战场返回。在他位于内罗比的家中客厅里,后墙上挂着一系列相框,其中一张是他与年幼女儿灿烂笑容的合影。但最引人注目的是一张斯蒂芬 19 岁时身着军装的褪色照片。那是他作为肯尼亚空军成员毕业的那一天。 在服役十年后,…

Did he really fall in love and marry a dancer with the Ballets Russes?

他深深地爱上了莉迪亚·洛波科娃(Lydia Lopokova)。他热爱 插图为1929年的约翰·梅纳德·凯恩斯。下方为1931年的芭蕾舞演员莉迪亚·洛波科娃,后成为凯恩斯夫人。 在《生活标准》(The Standard of Living)中,罗里·金尼尔(Rory Kinnear)饰演凯恩斯,与娜塔莉亚·奥西波娃(Natalia Osipova)和卢克·辛克·怀特(Luke Cinque White)同框。 曼努埃尔·哈隆(Manuel Harlon)

Panicked investors find haven in Germany

本周,投资者纷纷涌向德国和瑞士,以寻求远离市场动荡的避风港。随着法国政府借贷成本跃升至数十年来的高点(见第 41 页),德国的借贷成本则有所下降。德国在历史上一直对其借贷采取较为严格的控制,部分原因是其宪法中的“债务刹车”机制,因此被认为比其邻国更安全。瑞士的借贷成本同样下降,瑞士法郎的价值在类似动态的推动下上涨。ING 货币策略师弗朗切斯科·佩索莱(Francesco Pesole)表示:“当欧元区的债务风险激增时,法郎总是首选的避风港。”

[Observations] We've forgotten the joy of an unexpected little gift

前几天,我的朋友 Chris 来吃早餐,给我带来了一份迟到的生日礼物,小巧、完美且精美:一个印有已停产威士忌品牌标志的古董烟灰缸,他在普里姆罗斯山(Primrose Hill)一个非常小的法国市场上发现的。这是一个极其华丽的物件——乳白色的玻璃,印着星条旗风格的红蓝字体——而且,尽管我只有在向人们炫耀时才会抽烟,但这件东西简直太像我的风格了,而被看见即是被爱。我看到它时惊叹不已。“我可以用它来烧小香锥,”我说,因为这就是和我一起玩时的样子。“我可以把它放在…

Sunless 1 min
[Sunless] 68 Norman Road (sunlessantiques.com)

68 Norman Road (sunlessantiques.com) “这是一个可以俯瞰大海的绝佳空间,由一对极具眼光的年轻夫妇经营。他们对 20 世纪 20 年代装饰艺术(Art Deco)和 40 年代现代主义古董及装饰品的策划非常出色,这些物品通常来自法国或比利时。我最近用来自 Sunless 的书架、圆鼓桌和艺术品布置了我们新的曼彻斯特店。他们还提供大量精选的 20 世纪早期法国工装。”

Fine fizz 'n' fast food

最近在柏林度假的第一天,我的家人因为饥肠辘辘,做了几乎所有初到该市的游客都会做的事:我们直奔最近的咖喱香肠亭,第一次品尝这种奇特的美味——它的酱汁甜味多于辣味,且必须搭配薯条和一瓶酸爽、滋补的柏林白啤酒 (Berliner weisse)。由于我们正处于柏林旅游区的中心地带,就在勃兰登堡门附近,我们已经做好了像在莱斯特广场买东西(随便买什么)的傻瓜一样被宰的准备。但价格(一个面包夹香肠和一瓶 50cl 啤酒 €8.50)相当合理,甚至包括那个“€259 M…

The week in brief

维斯塔潘在大幅提升后夺得杆位 马特·马詹迪(Matt Majendie)写道,马克斯·维斯塔潘在今天早上的巴林大奖赛中夺得杆位,预示着红牛车队的崭新黎明。 这位 29 岁的车手本赛季首次获得杆位——这也是 2026 年非梅赛德斯动力赛车首次夺得杆位。这位四届世界冠军的冠军争夺战早已化为泡影,但他在排位赛中的统治力巩固了他目前作为基米·安东内利(Kimi Antonelli)在赛道上最强挑战者的地位。 由于中东地区持续的冲突,本次大奖赛移至马来西亚举行。维斯…

[Said & done by Andrew Butler] Flipping Hull

赫尔城足球俱乐部位于科廷汉姆(Cottingham)的训练基地附近发生了离奇事件。据报道,夏季从法国引进的卢卡斯·古尔纳-杜阿特(Lucas Gourna-Douath)成为了第二位在基地外翻车的“老虎队”球员;三周前,边锋索尔巴·托马斯(Sorba Thomas)也在同一条狭窄的道路上发生了车辆翻滚。两名球员均未受伤。

足球 4 min
[Other results] FOOTBALL

欧足联国家联赛—A3组:克罗地亚 0 英格兰 7,西班牙 负 捷克共和国 负。B1组:北马其顿 负 苏格兰 负,瑞士 负 斯洛文尼亚 负。C1组:白俄罗斯 4 圣马力诺 0,芬兰 2 阿尔巴尼亚 1。C4组:爱沙尼亚 1 卢森堡 0,冰岛 3 保加利亚 0。 英格兰足球联赛(EFL)奖杯赛南部赛区—D组:科尔切斯特 1 卢顿 1(卢顿点球 4-3 获胜)。 威廉希尔苏格兰联赛—冠军联赛:利文斯顿 1 艾尔 2,莫顿 1 雷斯 2,帕蒂克 3 阿布罗斯 0。…

Europe's richest horse race... and cheers to Saracens' wine expert

巴林大奖赛在马来西亚举行(是的,真的),而国际足球赛似乎永无止境。作者:帕特里克·基德(Patrick Kidd) 上周最奇怪的故事之一是,许多人认为担任萨拉森队(Saracens)橄榄球总监的布伦丹·文特(Brendan Venter)有了新的职位名称。这位南非人将被称为他们的“橄榄球文化主管兼葡萄酒顾问”。据称,这将使他无需履行媒体义务。 文特表示,他不再在赛后接受新闻采访,而是会邀请记者参加品酒会,并在喝一两杯酒的过程中回答问题。在我看来,这简直是双…

The voice of a new Ireland

在最近的一个工作日夜晚,都柏林北区一家酒吧的侧室里,八位音乐家围在几张矮桌旁相对而坐。他们手拿品脱啤酒,演奏了一系列器乐曲目——包括布伦丹·汤拉(Brendan Tonra)的《冬日之苹果》(Apples in Winter)——令周围聚集的饮酒者们感到愉悦。这里几乎没有任何形式主义;在歌曲之间,演奏者们彼此聊天,也与观众交流,观众人数增加到了总共12人,其中许多是亲友。 在左后角,一名女子在两名小提琴手的簇拥下演奏着手风琴,神情极度专注。如果你偶然走进来…

Continued from page 12

作为本专辑制作人的 Lankum 关键合作者 John “Spud” Murphy 告诉我,这张专辑“90-something per cent 是 Radie”。其余部分由 ∅XN 和 Lankum 的其他成员客串组成;当然,还包括来自昔日爱尔兰、英国和阿巴拉契亚山的原创词曲作者,Peat 经常以一种近乎乖戾的方式对他们的作品进行剪辑和修改。在《Willow Garden》(一首关于一名年轻女性被其男性情侣杀害的民谣,由后者讲述故事)这首歌中,她希望听众…

Bay watch

一场由法国艺术家在南部生活期间获得灵感的闪耀展览,与国家美术馆中雷诺阿那些平淡的情侣相比,提供了纯粹的视觉享受 劳拉·卡明 (Laura Cumming) 绘制法国里维埃拉 (Painting the French Riviera) 伦敦 W1,皇家艺术学院;展至

One to watch

Madra Salach 这个来自都柏林的六人组合在对传统民谣的粗粝探索中,摒弃了吉格舞曲(jigs)和里尔舞曲(reels)。 如同之前的 Pogues 乐队和 Lankum 乐队一样,Madra Salach 触及了传统爱尔兰民谣那粗粝的根源。这里找不到欢快的吉格或里尔舞曲;这是带有紧锁眉头和威士忌气息的音乐。Madra Salach(在爱尔兰语中意为“脏狗”)成立于 2023 年,已从三人组发展为六人组合,他们从家乡北都柏林酒吧私密间(snugs)的…

Bel 1 min

英格兰在比赛激烈的开局10天内的第四场比赛,截至撰稿时,两场比赛赢了一场。国际赛程依然密集。今日其他赛事:苏格兰对阵斯洛文尼亚,BBC Two, 7.30pm。以及本周前后的赛事:威尔士对阵丹麦,周日,BBC Two, 7.30pm;北爱尔兰对阵格鲁吉亚,周一,BBC Three, 7.30pm。周五将有一场女足世界杯欧洲区预选赛:希腊对阵英格兰,ITV1, 5pm。CMc BBC Four, 10pm

[Thursday] Pick of the Day The Celebrity Traitors BBC One, 8pm

在发稿时,新一季仅播出了第一集,且没有进一步的预审片可供观看,因此无法预测等待着怎样的城堡大屠杀。唯一可以确定的是,如果混乱制造者理查德·E(邪恶天才)·格兰特(Richard E(vil genius) Grant)能活下来继续背叛,那将是一个小小的奇迹。至于罗斯·肯普(Ross Kemp)是否淹没在自己的偏执之中,或者米兰达·哈特(Miranda Hart)(见下文)是否已经完成了她的马普尔小姐试镜,仍有待观察…… KR

📑 🇬🇧 英国深度观察 (Britain & UK) (89篇)

Slim now, pay later: pharmacies warned about hard sell of diet pills

零售商否认在营销减肥药物和在线服务时违反了广告规则 乔恩·昂格德-托马斯 (Jon Ungoed-Thomas) 与 玛丽娜·圣 (Marine Saint) 尽管禁止对处方药本身进行广告宣传,但作为英国数十亿英镑肥胖治疗产业的一部分,新型减肥药的销售正通过“先买后付”信用、折扣价格和忠诚度积分进行推广。 由诺和诺德 (Novo Nordisk) 和礼来 (Eli Lilly) 生产的两款处方减肥药——Wegovy 和 Foundayo——已于今年早些时候…

'Many promotions are inducing demand and would appear in breach of the law'

《观察者报》对获批药物营销活动的分析发现,相关促销活动可能会导致新批准药丸的采用率增加。调查发现: \- 高街药房 Superdrug 为想要购买 Wegovy 或 Foundayo 片剂的客户提供其健康美容卡(health and beautycard)的积分奖励。 \- Asda 的在线医生服务称,患者可以“开始使用” Wegovy 或 Foundayo,价格每月 £87.97 起。该服务还推广使用 PayPal Pay in 3 分期付款,允许分三期…

Cap lifetime social care costs or elderly risk ruin, PM is told

蕾切尔·西尔维斯特 (Rachel Sylvester) 安迪·伯纳姆被敦促引入社会护理成本的终身上限,以确保患有认知障碍症的人员不会面临毁灭性的账单。 据了解,领导英格兰成人社会护理独立委员会的跨党派贵族议员路易丝·凯西(Louise Casey)得出结论,对需要住院护理的个人支付总额设定限制,是防止阿尔茨海默症等长期病患失去所有积蓄或被迫出售房屋的唯一方法。 她的建议尚未最终确定,但两名消息人士表示,委员会担心如果没有上限,弱势老年人将面临“灾难性成本…

WRITE your will SO SHE CAN WRITE her future

直到我们全部平等 “留下的一份遗产捐赠,让我觉得自己在给世界留下一点印记,一份贡献。这赋予了我的生活意义,让我感到快乐。” 在成长过程中,弗朗西斯卡(Francesca)拥有许多女孩至今仍被剥夺的机会。她相信每个女孩都应该拥有学习、成长和选择自己未来的自由。这就是为什么她决定在遗嘱中向 Plan International UK 捐赠一份礼物。 在世界各地,仅仅因为是女孩,女孩们仍然面临着更大的风险和更少的选择。

'If I have a choice of believing the Premier League or Man City, I wouldn't choose the Premier League' Richard Leese

2021年,在鲍里斯·约翰逊担任首相期间,一项扩大的阿联酋-英国主权投资伙伴关系在唐宁街签署,通过该协议,阿联酋官员同意在技术、基础设施、能源转型和生命科学领域提供重大投资。 随后,阿联酋在英国掀起了一波新投资浪潮,包括里希·苏纳克在2023年12月宣布的一项价值£11bn的北海风电场股份;教育项目(包括提供专业学校名额);金融服务以及宽带基础设施。 《电讯报》获得的文件显示,工党部长们曾如何争取阿联酋在剑桥与牛津之间的高科技走廊项目进行新投资。今年2月发…

The Mancini contract that could deepen Manchester City's crisis

“这不是一个让我担心的问题,”罗伯托·曼奇尼(Roberto Mancini)说道。这位意大利国家队主教练当时正在回应关于曼彻斯特城(他曾执教的俱乐部)在115项指控中有114项被判定有罪的裁决。他在俱乐部期间不寻常的双重合同,已成为关于曼城上诉是否能成功的讨论焦点。 除非能够推翻听证过违反英超联赛财务公平竞争规则指控的独立委员会的决定,否则该俱乐部将面临潜在的扣分、降级或被驱逐出联赛以及罚款。如果足球界以外的当局介入,可能会引发其他俱乐部的诉讼以及可能的…

RESPECTING YOU AND YOUR PERSONAL DATA

您的支持对我们的工作至关重要。我们希望让您及时了解我们的工作人员和患者的第一手讲述,分享您的支持在从对抗流行病到提供紧急手术等方面的救命影响。 我们不会允许其他组织出于营销目的访问您的个人数据,也不会向您发送过多的募捐请求。 通过支持无国界医生(MSF),您将通过邮寄收到我们的杂志《Dispatches》、活动邀请以及偶尔的紧急募捐请求。您可以发送电子邮件至 uk.fundraising@london.msf.org 或致电 020 7404 6600 来…

Are you already an investor?

你可能不认为自己是一名投资者,而你并不孤单。根据行业机构投资协会(Investment Association)最近的一份 ISA 指标报告,仅有 36% 的英国成年人同意“投资适合像我这样的人”这一说法。 你可能会将投资与那些拥有广泛金融知识和大量可支配资金的富裕专业人士联系在一起。但事实上,情况远非如此。 “现在超过 8 位 10 名从业人员在缴纳职场养老金,这意味着投资已经成为大多数家庭日常财务生活的一部分,”投资协会首席执行官约翰·欧文(John …

How can investing help you achieve your goals?

“投资确实是长期的,”威金斯(Wiggins)表示,“无论是为了拥有住房还是为了舒适的退休生活,投资都能帮助实现这些财务目标。” 人们开始投资的方式多种多样,这并不一定意味着要亲自挑选股票和股份。一些平台会提供现成的投资组合,因此您甚至不需要自行选择投资项目。 如果您每月在现金账户中存钱,其中一部分资金可能存放在现金个人储蓄账户(Cash ISA)中,这意味着您赚取的任何利息都是免税的。 但英国储蓄者还可以选择股票及股份个人储蓄账户(Stocks and …

You don't need a lot to start investing

投资并非富人的专利,也不意味着必须投入一大笔资金。您不需要财务顾问即可开始,尽管有些人可能在做出任何投资决定之前希望获得顾问的指导。 您可以投入一笔资金开始,或者设置定期付款(例如每月 £50),随着时间的推移逐步增加您的投资。 根据投资协会(Investment Association)的数据,五分之一(21%)的英国成年人表示,他们可能会在 2026 年开始每月 £10 到 £50 的小额定期投资。 少量且频繁投资的好处是,您可以在感到更舒适且熟悉投资…

Ranulph Fiennes took me on a global caper. It’s hard to imagine him ‘isolated’

随着人们对这位资深探险家福祉的担忧日益增加,吉尔斯·惠特尔回忆起这场跨越七大洲、为期七天的马拉松挑战之旅中的快乐时光。 首先是家人,然后是朋友,接着是皇室,最后是警方。在这次已演变为全国性搜寻英国最著名的在世探险家的行动中,担忧者的名单很长。 患有帕金森病和认知障碍症的拉努夫·费恩斯(Ranulph Fiennes)被认为与他的第二任妻子路易丝·米林顿-科茨(Louise Millington-Cotes)一起住在英国某处的偏远农舍中,后者拥有决定其护理方…

The first-past-the-post system was built for a two-party Britain. That era is over Andrew Rawnsley

随着政治格局的碎片化,安迪·伯纳姆 (Andy Burnham) 承诺改革选举制度的行为受到了欢迎。但接下来的走向远未确定。 在 1951 年的选举中,工党和保守党的合计得票率接近 97%,当时没有人过多抱怨选举制度。当英国政治真正是一场“两马之争”时,使用简单多数制 (first-past-the-post) 来选出政府是合理的。 而现在,英格兰演变成了“五马之争”,苏格兰和威尔士则是“六马之争”。当你试图将多党政治强行塞入一个为双头垄断而设计的制度时,…

Esther saw people being failed and decided that noticing was not enough

法律对她及其家人意味着什么。本周的悼词捕捉到了她之所以能成为一名高效活动家的原因。Childline 的肖恩·弗里尔(Shaun Friel)回忆起她是一个“激励人们、鼓舞人们、说服人们”的人。多布斯勋爵(Lord Dobbs)则回忆她“讨人喜欢、表达清晰、风趣——且非常执着”。 最后一个词至关重要。 埃丝特所参与的并非每一场活动都能立即取得成功。她明白社会变革 很少是整洁、快速或线性的。重要的是持续地陈述理由,持续地揭露失效之处,并持续地坚持让受影响最深…

Delayed justice on Grenfell Tower is not a ‘milestone’

此案终于移交至英国皇家检察署(CPS)——金米亚·扎比汉(Kimia Zabihyan)认为,对于一位在没有得到答案的情况下离世的母亲来说,这太迟了。 埃丝特(Esther)一生都拒绝接受一个观点,即困难的问题应该简单地成为别人的问题。这种战斗精神将与我们同在。 上周,格伦费尔塔火灾调查中 20 家公司和 54 名个人被移交给英国皇家检察署(CPS),这被赞誉为一个令人欢欣的“里程碑”。 我们将怀念她的机智、她的温暖以及她那古灵精怪的幽默感。最重要的是,我…

Keynes is my intellectual lodestar. Is a play about his life on the money? Will Hutton

詹姆斯·格雷厄姆对伟大经济学家约翰·梅纳德·凯恩斯的致敬令人动容。我们的常驻专家将事实与虚构区分开来 我认为经济学家约翰·梅纳德·凯恩斯对当代资本主义提供了迄今为止最原创、最深刻且最精准的理解。他是我的思想指路明灯,他的思想影响了我所有的写作。因此,当我去看詹姆斯·格雷厄姆的《生活标准》(The Standard of Living)这部描绘凯恩斯生活与思想的戏剧时,心中不免有些忐忑。这位擅长大众化创作的剧作家能否超越凯恩斯的双性恋倾向以及他与布卢姆茨伯里…

Did he set up the Arts Council?

是的。他认为伟大的艺术能丰富每个人的生活——在他道德宇宙的认知中,艺术不应是富人的专属。艺术委员会旨在尝试将这种体验带给每一位英国公民,甚至在他去世前的日子里,他仍在起草该委员会的章程。 在剧中,哈耶克被描绘成被玛格丽特·撒切尔所接纳,他的书被象征性地放入一个手提包中。这真的发生过吗? 很少有经济学家在专业层面高度评价哈耶克,但《通往奴役之路》被认为是20世纪最伟大的右翼意识形态号召书籍之一。市场等同于自由;国家等同于强制。撒切尔坚持要求内阁每位成员阅读此…

Sunbeds cause cancer. It's time for social media to stop pushing the glow

医学专家对通过 Instagram 和 TikTok 等平台推广使用晒床的行为日益感到担忧,因为这些平台忽视了晒床是导致皮肤癌的重要风险因素(见上周新闻报道《社交媒体如何让晒床再次变得危险》)。 黑色素瘤是最致命的皮肤癌形式,且在英国的发病率正在上升。它是该国第五大常见癌症(目前在男性中排名第四),每年有超过 20,000 例新病例。它在英国每年导致约 2,600 人死亡,即每天死亡 7 人以上,但近 10 例病例中有 9 例可以通过避免来自太阳或晒床的紫…

Implications of AI

这是一个系统性问题,相关机构必须做得更好。向人们提供其护理记录是法律规定。记录绝不应该在没有预警的情况下延迟送达,或者在缺乏适当支持以帮助处理困难细节的情况下送达。作为数据保护监管机构,我们制定了新标准,以帮助相关机构正确执行。 这将在以下部门需要充足的人员配置,例如 我们呼吁英国每个地方当局以及北爱尔兰卫生与社会护理局承诺改善护理记录的获取,为团队提供适当的资源,并执行我们的标准,以便在处理请求时能够给予关怀。 遗憾的是,恩凯奇的故事并非孤立的失败案例。…

Away days for City fans?

我们拥有如此糟糕的世界领导人(特朗普、普京等);像埃隆·马斯克这样的掠食者控制着如此之多的社交媒体;以及我们正在给地球造成破坏的证据,这些是否导致了如此虚无主义的评估? 诚信,如果没有诚实,那就根本不是一项运动”(上周,《体育》)。我建议的处罚是:下赛季降级至英格兰足球联赛第二级别(League Two),并在本赛季剩余比赛中被大幅扣分(外加巨额罚款)。 那么,听到像教皇那样呼吁我们利用内在的想象力去认可人类之美并付诸行动的声音,是多么必要。我们是否可以希…

What's the difference between a printer company and a global pioneer of quantum computing?

根据官方数据,两者没有区别,这导致英国政策制定者在制定工业战略时,对我们极具价值的前沿企业视而不见。 即便经过近期的修正,英国在过去二十年里的生产力依然相当糟糕。但在一个领域,生产力正处于爆发期,那就是为了应对这一现状而创造的政治词汇。“再工业化”加入了一个包括“重新平衡”、“制造者进军”和“升级”在内的词单,这些词无疑在政治上是权宜之计,但在实质内容上则更令人质疑。 我们陷入这种境地,是因为我们需要培育的那部分经济在国家统计数据中根本找不到。这并非因为产…

[Last-minute] WINTER SUN

套餐 / 每人 £599 起 今年冬天逃离到冈比亚,探索金色的、不拥挤的海滩,享受无尽的阳光,以及无需应对时差的奢华体验,这里距离英国仅六小时航程。 这个独特的目的地常被描述为非洲的隐藏瑰宝,欢迎热爱阳光和自然的人们前来,在这里,温暖的白昼、丰富的文化和充满活力的野生动物和谐共存。 与专家一起预订您的假期

[0800 715 137 stannah.com | The minutes | Deals and earnings] Banks take £18bn hit over fears of new tax

英国四大银行——巴克莱银行(Barclays)、汇丰银行(HSBC)、劳埃德银行(Lloyds)和国民西敏寺银行(NatWest)本周遭受打击,其股票市值被抹去了 180亿英镑。在财政大臣准备 10 月 28 日发布其首份预算案之际,主要贷款机构被召集至财政部进行会谈,这加剧了关于约翰·希利(John Healey)将对该行业征收新税的猜测。据报道,此次峰会于周二举行,但财政部尚未透露具体细节。贸易协会和投资者在更高税收对英国金融业意味着什么的问题上存在分…

[Hot commodity] UK soaks up savings with plug-in solar

随着天然气和电价持续上涨,英国住户正抢购插电式太阳能电池板以降低账单开支。政府在 8 月底将插电式太阳能电池板合法化。这些套件无需专业安装,每套可产生高达 800W 的电量,可满足普通家庭电量需求的 20%。未使用的电量可回传至电网。根据 Octopus Energy 的数据,平均每位客户每年可节省高达 £150。该公司报告称,过去一个月对插电式太阳能的需求如此强劲,以至于不得不两次补货。

£2.5 1 min
£2.5bn

根据最新的政府数据,2024-25, 年度向创意产业支付的税收减免金额为25亿英镑。其中,7.02 亿英镑m与电影相关,9.36 亿英镑m与高端电视相关。该减免政策允许符合条件的公司降低其税单。电影和电视制作公司在国际上具有高度的流动性,而该减免政策旨在吸引它们来到英国。 根据新公布的政府估算,2024 和 2025, 之间,从事电影、电视、广播和音乐行业的人数增长了23k。这相当于增长了11.1%,而整个经济的增长率为1.1%。

£4 1 min
£4bn

英国独立电视部门的总收入在2025, 达到38亿英镑,比前一年增长了4%。由贸易团体Pact进行的该行业年度普查显示,国际电视收入增长了16%,达到16亿英镑,抵消了国内收益的轻微下降。 国内收入下降。

New niche for second wave of back-to-the-future foods

位于梅费尔(Mayfair)且布置得无可挑剔的英国皇家犬业俱乐部(Royal Kennel Club)总部,或许不是接待一群所谓“大亨”的显而易见之选。但周二,埃森哲(Accenture)、劳埃德银行(Lloyds Bank)以及吉姆·梅隆(Jim Mellon)的新农业(New Agrarian)投资基金在此举行了一场关于“机构投资者与更好的食品系统”的早会。 传递出的信息很明确:第二波替代食品投资正在将第一波的失望抛在脑后。第一波投资在2021年达到顶…

Boots, Monzo and the RAC snub London stock market

巴尼·麦金泰尔 (Barney Macintyre) 英国上市公司是否正面临一场“灭绝事件”? 这听起来很戏剧化,但过去一周一系列的贸易出售、收购传闻以及暂停的公开上市计划,再次迫使人们思考这个问题。 Monzo 是一家金融科技瑰宝,英国政府曾将其视为潜在的上市候选者,但在一项以 100亿英镑 出售给巴西 NuBank 的交易失败后,该公司转而与多家私募股权公司展开谈判。

Unions prepare to march into the private sector as a whole new white-collar world opens up

上个月,Prospect工会的迈克·克兰西(Mike Clancy)在伦敦南部V&A博物馆为期两天的罢工期间向工会成员发表讲话。 Ron Fassbender / Alamy Meta等公司在法律变更之前正就职场关系达成协议,该法律变更将允许贸易工会请求进入某些企业 Stephen Armstrong

[Weather] UK and Ireland | <td rowspan="2"> | <td colspan="2">Today | <td colspan="2">Monday | <td colspan="2">Tuesday | Low | High | Low | High | Low | High | Belfast | 9 | 18 | 14 | 17 | 10 | 13 | Birmingham | 4 | 19 | 12 | 20 | 12 | 19 | Bristol | 9 | 18 | 12 | 18 | 12 | 18 | Dover | 12 | 20 | 10 | 20 | 11 | 20 | Edinburgh | 9 | 17 | 15 | 18 | 10 | 14 | Glasgow | 10 | 17 | 14 | 17 | 9 | 14 | Inverness | 11 | 17 | 14 | 17 | 7 | 13 | Leeds | 7 | 17 | 14 | 19 | 14 | 17 | Leicester | 7 | 19 | 13 | 20 | 13 | 19 | Liverpool | 6 | 20 | 13 | 20 | 13 | 17 | London | 11 | 22 | 10 | 22 | 11 | 21 | Manchester | 6 | 18 | 13 | 20 | 13 | 17 | Newcastle | 5 | 16 | 14 | 18 | 11 | 14 | Norwich | 9 | 21 | 9 | 21 | 11 | 21 | Plymouth | 9 | 20 | 10 | 19 | 11 | 19 | Swansea | 7 | 18 | 14 | 18 | 14 | 18 | Dublin | 7 | 18 | 16 | 19 | 11 | 14 | ![](images/13c483e72b68c0e81fff5842bc4b87c27b56f1da9ed12fc9aa891a56bffb56dc.jpg)

< / td>< colspan="2">今天< / >< colspan="2">周一< / >< colspan="2">周二< / >< / tr><><>最低< / ><>最高< / >< / ><><>贝尔法斯特< / ><>9< / ><>18< / ><>14< / ><>17< / ><>10< / ><>13< / >< / ><><>伯明翰< / ><>4< / ><>19< / ><>12< / ><>20< / ><>12< / >…

(面对面一小时,第 9 页) Matilda 是一位常驻伦敦的摄影师,她创作的亲密摄影作品专注于连接、社区和工艺。 如果你一生只能穿一条牛仔裤,会是哪一条? “一条几年前我为了一个朋友在 eBay 上买的复古白色 Wrangler 牛仔裤。当时我想鼓励她购买二手衣物。我们仔细量了她的尺寸,但还是不合适……我把裤子带回家,发现它们竟然完美契合我的身材!现在它们是我穿得最多的一条。”

Which era in history would you like to have lived through?

这取决于我是以现在的身份去还是不是,因为历史对黑人和棕色人种并不友好。我对维多利亚时代的英国很着迷,而且我很想亲眼看看古埃及金字塔的建造过程,但我会伪装起来。 如果你能与一位名人(无论生死)共处五分钟,你会选择谁? 莎黛 (Sade)。在我的许多创意对话中,她都被视为智慧、美丽和永恒的象征。我正试图让她结束退休,以便有一天能见到她——甚至为她设计服装。

ALLSAINTS

AllSaints 1994年创立于伦敦东区的斯皮塔佛兹(Spitalfields),是粗犷的伦敦酷感美学的代名词。AW26 是新任创意总监 Aaron Esh 设计的首个系列,他自己的品牌已成为伦敦时装周的热门之选。皮革依然是 AllSaints 衣橱的核心支柱,但在 Esh 的带领下,皮革已从做旧黑色演变为新的颜色、饰面、重量和比例,涵盖了从短款、线条锐利的廓形到宽松的 the peacoats 以及合身的卡车司机风格。这也不关乎年轻。“我不太感兴趣于…

MARKS & SPENCER

马莎百货已经服务我们的衣橱 100 年了,上个月,这家零售商在伦敦时装周举办了一场引人注目的表演,庆祝其一个世纪的风格。所有 59 套造型均可立即购买——其中一件已售罄的单品是一款大胆的蓝色 V 领针织衫 (£49)。“我们大力支持针织服装,引入了新的纱线创新、更好的质量和更多的选择,”M&S 男装总监 Mitch Hughes 解释道。M&S 已悄然成为以实惠价格购买高质量时尚基础款的首选(男装系列的 82% 定价在 £50 以下)。Hughes 对 M…

Joy Fillers

走廊里的一盘饮料。这让人感到受欢迎——并增添了一抹光彩。 装饰应该让你看起来更漂亮。我的卧室挂着没有衬里的淡紫色亚麻窗帘。它们能让皮肤焕发光彩。 镀金餐具。它比英国银器温暖得多,也更让人感到亲切。 我的浴室里总有一把椅子。任何带软垫的椅子,尤其是毛巾材质的。那是我的晾衣椅。

Joy Killers

白天才点蜡烛简直是错误的。 靠垫过多。人们使用得太多了。应节制使用并保持填充不足,这样它们才能稍微摆动。 栗色是最丑的颜色。那种沉闷的红色。 餐厅。你永远不会经常使用它们,而且深色木桌看起来像董事会会议室的家具。

At Large With... Tom Broughton in St Leonards- on-Sea

汤姆·布劳顿在他位于 Marine Court 的公寓家中 “我在莱斯特长大,那是英国离大海最远的地方,这可能就是为什么我如此热爱海岸线,”Cubitts 眼镜店的创始人汤姆·布劳顿(Tom Broughton)说道。“在我的印象中,海岸线依然与假期、冒险、棉花糖、小驴和自由联系在一起。”2024年,他在一次日间旅行中,在海滩上瞥见了 Marine Court 那如灯塔般的形态,随后购入了这座位于圣莱昂纳兹海滨(St Leonards-on-Sea)的现代…

[Collected Fictions] Unit 1, 6-8 London Road (@collected.fictions)

Unit 1, 6-8 London Road (@collected.fictions) “这家酒吧是我爱上圣莱昂纳兹的原因之一。它由两个塞满酒瓶(和音乐)的小房间组成,你可以在这里惬意地消磨时光。他们提供特别优质的天然葡萄酒,以及不寻常的瓶装啤酒和生啤。这里的营业时间很古怪,晚上 9 点就关门,这本身就体现了一种氛围。”

[⑤ St Leonards Gardens] Maze Hill (historicengland.org.uk)

“这里是圣莱昂纳兹(St Leonards)迷人且隐秘的核心地带。这座城镇的创建者詹姆斯·伯顿(James Burton)从维多利亚酒店(Victoria Hotel)开始,在酒店后方建造了这座花园,中心有一个海龟池。花园周围环绕着最精美的维多利亚时代建筑,可以俯瞰大海——它将你带回另一个 era。”大多数人都忽略了这里。 这里有经过 9 个月干腌的招牌甜味。这里有在帕尔马丘陵(Parma Hills)进行的传统调味。这里有无需刻意就能展现出的文化气息。 …

Get foraging

正如奈杰尔·斯莱特 (Nigel Slater) 所提到的(第37页),现在是采摘蘑菇的好时机。通过野外采集,你可以省下购买昂贵蘑菇的大笔费用,但天呐,前提是你必须知道自己在做什么。一把蘑菇刀能帮你干净利落地切断,然后你可以用另一端刷掉污垢(而且,基本上,任何购买新 Opinel 刀的理由都是充分的;£26, berryuseful.co.uk)。

Get picking

来自炎热夏季的一些好消息:充足的阳光意味着今年英国葡萄的生长状况极佳。如果你足够幸运地在花园里种了葡萄藤,你现在应该正忙于采摘和保存(腌制葡萄绝对是最佳选择)。如果你没有,市面上也有一些很棒的进口品种——我们非常喜欢香气浓郁的 Fragola 葡萄,它的味道不像其名字所暗示的草莓,而更像人工葡萄味,这相当奇怪。

DRINKS HANNAH CROSBIE

香槟配热狗本身也有着相当悠久的传承,在 2010 年代的伦敦,由 Bubbledogs 推广并使其流行,这家香槟热狗酒吧与位于夏洛特街的米其林星级餐厅 Kitchen Table 相关联。 得益于香槟天然的化解油脂的酸度和清新口腔的气泡,这种搭配出奇地和谐。不过,如果我想寻找一种真正令人满足的快餐与起泡酒的组合,我不会从热狗开始,而且杯中的酒也不一定非要是香槟。 无论是经典的英式炸鱼薯条,还是炸鸡店的深炸鸡块,其鲜味(umami)的结合以及酥脆与多汁之间永…

⑧ 1 min

“四大”时装周分别在哪个四个城市举行? 哪位流行歌星经营着 Service95 书友会,并且是今年伦敦文学节的主策展人?她的热门歌曲包括《Levitating》、《Illusion》和《One Kiss》。 在看到三宅一生(Issey Miyake)为索尼员工设计的制服后,史蒂夫·乔布斯受到启发,决定拥有自己的个人制服。这位设计师为苹果创始人打造的标志性造型中,高领衫是什么颜色的? 在犹太传统中,据说哪种水果有 613 颗种子?

Marathon dates decided by rock, paper, scissors

明年的伦敦马拉松精英赛日期已通过一种极具创意的方法决定——玩一场剪刀石头布。明年的赛事将是一次特殊的两天制活动,100,000 名参赛者将在 24-25 April 的周末期间走上街头。但关于男子和女子精英赛及轮椅赛的具体时间,则由女子轮椅世界纪录保持者凯瑟琳·德布伦纳(Catherine Debrunner)和男子世界纪录保持者萨巴斯蒂安·萨韦(Sabastian Sawe)通过这场童年游戏决定——两人均在去年的比赛中夺冠。 德布伦纳在三局两胜的对决中以…

Walthamstow wait is over

沃尔瑟姆斯托足球俱乐部(Walthamstow FC)的内森·史密斯(Nathan Smith)取得了一项惊人的成就,他刷新了俱乐部两球之间间隔时间最长的纪录。史密斯在上周末该伊斯米安联赛(Isthmian League)球队 9-0 大胜洛韦斯托夫特(Lowestoft)的比赛中打入一球——而他此前为这家东伦敦俱乐部进球的时间点,是在 19 年 7 个月零 9 天之前。

Age is just a Bamber

沃里克郡冠军伊森·班伯(Ethan Bamber)告诉 Cricinfo,他进入英格兰队的希望已经“随风而逝”。但年仅 27 岁的他应该从其他晚年才完成测试赛首秀的球员身上获得鼓励。这些人包括格雷姆·斯旺(Graeme Swann,当时 29 岁)、乔纳森·特罗特(Jonathan Trott,28 岁)、布赖登·卡斯(Brydon Carse,29 岁)、乔·登利(Joe Denly,32 岁)和约翰·查尔兹(John Childs,36 岁)。

[A week is a long time... in football] Since the City verdict, the stakes have rapidly escalated, writes Rory Smith

过去的一切曾如此纯真。现在很难回忆起来,但曾经有一段时间——其实并不久远——足球是一项简单的运动。用毛衣当球门,飞翼前锋,阿森纳在角球时的闪电进攻。当我们切换到斯托克利公园(Stockley Park)去确认恩佐·费尔南德斯(Enzo Fernández)是否越位时,会有四分钟的延迟。 例如,曼彻斯特城(曼城)被判定大规模违反英超联赛财务规则,似乎就在上周;审理此案的独立小组公布其核心决定,终于将这场看来是英格兰足球史上最大的作弊丑闻曝光在阳光下,感觉也就…

‘Burnham is the man to have to resist them but does not seem to have the answer’

他随后对这些言论进行了澄清——不是一次,而是两次——但他在该问题上的脆弱性现在已显而易见。他现在应该意识到,他最初的言论误判了公众情绪。他也应该意识到,这现在已不仅仅是一个英超联赛的问题。 财政遴选委员会主席梅格·希利尔(Dame Meg Hillier)已要求英国税务海关总署(HMRC)调查曼城财务手段可能带来的税务影响;下议院商业委员会主席利亚姆·伯恩(Liam Byrne)则请求财务报告理事会调查曼城审计师的行为在何种程度上构成了“严重的监管失败”。…

It's too late to end Premier League's relationship with states

即便曼城的股东选择出售,英格兰顶级联赛此前已张开双臂欢迎了亚布拉莫维奇和公共投资基金(PIF),乔治·西姆斯(George Simms)写道。 所以,你认为主权国家不应该能够拥有足球俱乐部。这是一个令人钦佩的目标。如果我没说得太苛刻的话,这大概是正确的,尽管有点太晚了。当然,在英超联赛看来,这实际上根本不是个问题,因为没有任何一个主权国家拥有其旗下的任何俱乐部。 曼彻斯特城的申诉——在超出“我不确定你们第一次是否听清了”的范围之内——取决于谢赫·曼苏尔及其…

City's ‘lone ranger’ mentality is threat to what made Premier League great

一旦集体主义原则消失,英格兰足球中那些更传统的强队——曼联、阿森纳、利物浦——还有什么动力去维持表面的体面? 套用超级汉斯(Super Hans)的话来说:秘诀在于合作。在过去的三十年里,这一直是将英格兰足球从一个偏僻之地转变为一座光辉堡垒、一座玻璃与钢铁铸就的丰碑,并令其他联赛相形见拙的最重要因素。 显然,历史起到了作用。比赛风格是一个因素。座无虚席的体育场提供了极具感染力的背景。一些小技巧——比如确保球场周围的麦克风捕捉的是观众的喧闹声而非球员的声音—…

Kane, Bellingham, Saka and Gordon have forged a coherence that simply didn't exist six months ago

尽管他以一种前所未有的方式属于这里,而且在过去两场比赛中与刘易斯·霍尔(Lewis Hall)恢复合作,帮助他找到了更多的空间和机会。 也许最显而易见的结论是,所有足球比赛应该仅由学童参加。一旦你习惯了那永无止境的尖叫声,这确实非常有意思。有一个班级的学生显然高效地利用了他们的这一周,展开了一幅手绘横幅,上面写着:“它不会回家”(It's not coming home)。听着,这很公平,但 AI 可能会让他们的大脑萎缩到成年后难以正常运作的程度,所以谁才…

Alex Scott is taking matters into her own hands

周日晚上,杰斯·格林(Jess Glynne)在《One More Word》的演播室里四处奔走。她搬动家具,将空杯子扔进垃圾桶,并在拍摄开始前询问嘉宾是否已经去过洗手间。“我只是个负责社交媒体的女孩,”她说,红色的卷发在头顶随意地扎成一个发髻。“嗯,只要是需要做的事,我都会做。”在这里,她不再是那个正在创作下一张专辑的世界知名歌手杰斯·格林。她是亚历克斯·斯科特(Alex Scott)的伴侣杰西卡,实际上担任着由斯科特创立的 WSL YouTube 聊天…

Potter's sliding doors moment with England could be pivotal

杰西·帕克·汉弗莱斯(Jessy Parker Humphreys)撰文指出,缺席 U20 世界杯可能会成为莱克西·波特(Lexi Potter)成名的契机。 劳拉·卡明斯基(Laura Kaminski)意识到莱克西·波特与众不同的时刻出现在赛季开始几周后。在 2023-24 赛季初,17 岁的波特以租借身份加盟卡明斯基执教的水晶宫队,希望在女子超级联赛 2.(WSL2)中首次体验成年足球。在最初的几周里,这名中场球员无法进入首发阵容,对于一名在切尔西和…

The stats guide to this week's fixtures Bill Edgar

曼彻斯特城 vs 阿森纳,周日,下午 4.30,WSL 曼城女足与男足一样,以 100% 的胜率开启了联赛赛季。WSL 冠军球队得到了卡迪贾·“邦尼”·肖(Khadija “Bunny” Shaw)决定延长留队时间的助力:上赛季,她成为首位在连续三个 WSL 赛季中成为最佳射手或共同最佳射手的球员,而本赛季她再次成为共同最佳射手。她并不是唯一一位高产的足球界“邦尼”。罗伯特·“邦尼”·贝尔(Robert “Bunny” Bell)是仅有的两名在 EFL 比…

Better nights in for less

极速宽带、Sky TV 及 Netflix。每月仅需 £35。 价格在 24 个月的最低合约期内可能会有所变动。 仅限 Sky TV 及宽带新客户。包含基础电视服务(每月 £15)、含广告的 Netflix 标准版以及全光纤极速宽带(每月 £20)。24 个月后,基础电视服务为每月 £21;全光纤极速宽带为每月 £25。英国覆盖率为 79%。平均下载速度 900Mbps。18 岁以上。仅限英国。

Football was my refuge from mum being a soap celebrity

《每日邮报》首席体育撰稿人奥利弗·霍尔特(Oliver Holt)讲述他终身痴迷足球的开端 当艾琳·德比郡(Eileen Derbyshire)二十多岁,还在寻找角色且不确定自己能否成为一名演员时,她在莱斯特广场的一家大电影院担任检票员,并在圣约翰伍德做临时秘书。 随后她做出了决定:她要倾尽所有地追求表演事业。她离开了伦敦,加入了一家名为“世纪剧院”(The Century Theatre)的巡回剧团。她过着一种漂泊的生活,与同事们一起在全国各地巡演。 她…

Oliver's five favourite English football grounds

1. 斯托克波特,埃杰利公园球场 (Edgeley Park, Stockport) 我热爱这里并非因为其建筑的壮丽,而是因为它对我意味着什么。我依然能凝视着那个座位,那是父亲第一次带我来时我坐的地方。对我而言,前往斯托克波特的球场关乎一种归属感。 2. 富勒姆,克拉文小屋球场 (Craven Cottage, Fulham) 约翰尼·海恩斯看台是英格兰足球界最美丽的建筑。现在的许多体育场看起来都大同小异,因此任何在角落里有一座小屋的球场都值得珍惜。

The big picture

李·马丁在 20 世纪 90 年代初诺丁山狂欢节那令人窒息的拥挤人群中发现了一片绿洲 李·马丁(Lee Martin)不确定具体是哪一年,但从太阳镜、宽松的伊卡特(ikat)长裤、贝壳珠项链和扣紧的衬衫就可以看出,我们正处于 90 年代初的锐舞(rave)领域。构图和配色方案与那个 era 相契合,褪色的粉色和蓝色建筑外墙增添了整体的迷幻氛围。甚至连 一楼阳台上那个男人的舞姿,似乎也将我们置于英国文化史上一个非常特定的时刻。 这张照片出现在马丁的新书《派对…

[In Real Life] Observations & scenes from the world beyond your phone screen

伦敦北部的卡姆登街道是艾米·怀恩豪斯(Amy Winehouse)的圣地。这位已故歌手被绘制在数层楼高的砖墙上,俯瞰着运河的水面。不过,如果你想近距离接触现实世界中的“瓦莱丽”(Valerie),在首都中心的切尔西堤岸(Chelsea Embankment)的一套公寓里会有更好的运气,那里在尼科莱塔·菲奥鲁奇基金会(Nicoletta Fiorucci Foundation)展出了这位表演者曾拥有的 400 多本书籍。或者说,接近如此;这个由艺术家亚历克斯…

COMMUNITY LIFE Made for sharing

当我到达会议现场时,已经没有空位了。人们正用从门口桌子上拿的小册子给自己扇风。SET Social 是佩卡姆(Peckham)备受喜爱的社区艺术空间和社会俱乐部,以其多元化的活动安排和廉价饮品而闻名,如今正面临被房地产开发商 Cherwell Group 暂时关闭的危机。100 多名南伦敦人聚集在这里,旨在拯救它。空气中弥漫着革命的气息,后方的桌子上摆着佛卡夏面包(请随意取用)。 32 岁的科纳尔·莫纳汉(Conall Monaghan)共同管理该中心的社…

艺术 1 min
Art

“表面闪烁着油腻的油彩光泽。雏菊以厚厚的白色圆盘状傲然挺立。据说在画面中间某个地方,一顶超大帽檐遮住了一张神秘的面孔。”《理查德·达德:超越疯人院》(Richard Dadd: Beyond Bedlam)在伦敦皇家艺术学院展出,直到 10 月 25 日。劳拉·卡明(Laura Cumming)

The life and soul

千禧年代的实力派吉尔·斯科特将 R&B、嘻哈、蓝调和口述诗融入一场回顾职业生涯的演出中——而且在个人魅力上也没有吝啬 伯明翰 O2 学院 贴着“有毒的爱”、“戏剧”、“婊子”和“骗子”标签的纸箱全部打包好,准备放在吉尔·斯科特的舞台布景房屋外。自 2000 年她的两倍白金首张专辑——《Who Is Jill Scott? Words and Sounds Vol 1》使其名声大噪以来,这位来自费城的新灵魂乐歌手在赢得格莱美奖的同时,一直分享着引起共鸣的人生…

THE OBSERVER Shop

《观察者报》订阅者作为文化俱乐部(Culture Club)成员可享受 20% 的折扣 正如她所解释的,2010 年代智能手机和广告拦截器的普及导致曾经依赖横幅广告的成人网站收入下降。这迫使色情大亨们开始将他们悄悄收集的行为数据利用起来,既将其出售给第三方,也由他们自己利用这些数据来进一步量身定制内容。到 2019 年,Pornhub 被发现处于“数据驱动创意”的前沿,制片厂根据用户被什么吸引的极其精确且细致的信息(从具体的性行为到布景家具的颜色)来决定制…

Stations allows itself to be funny in a way that was muted for the Troubled Belfast setting of Trespasses

这一点在书的后面会出现——而罗辛(Róisín)的直率令人耳目一新。她还爱说脏话且心存怀疑,这些品质通常被她的母亲乌娜(Una)以一种打破常规的方式所欣赏。 雷德(Red)以其惊人的魅力和掩饰得并不太好的脆弱吸引了乌娜。虽然很少被公开提及,但众所周知雷德的父亲虐待妻子和儿子,他的老师们意识到了这个问题,因此愿意说服当地的卫兵(Garda)对他轻微的犯罪行为宽大处理。罗辛被雷德的阅读量和机智的谈吐所吸引,几乎没有注意到他的困扰,并且对他提供的酒类和药物感到印…

纵向 4 min
The Chambers Dictionary (2016) is recommended.

1 假日奶酪包含三明治的开口 (5) 2 独特特征包括与没有行动之前的愤怒会面——恰恰相反 (11, 2个单词) 3 头皮病?艾里斯的头部包含它 (7) 5 泥炭来源从乔克的菜肴中被移除 (4)

Rules and requests

面向 18 岁或以上的英国居民开放。可通过邮寄或电子邮件参与;数字订阅用户也可在 observer.co.uk / puzzles 在线参与。 将随机抽取三个正确答案,每位获胜者将获得一张 £25 的图书代金券。 邮寄:Azed No. 2,784, The Observer, 22 Berners Street, London W1T 3LP。请随信附上填写完整的网格以及您的姓名和地址。 电子邮件:competitions@observer.co.uk。…

Goldilocks crossword No. 45

不过难,不过易,刚刚好。 金发姑娘线索不包含字数提示;在规模中等的纵横字谜中,它们仅使原本紧凑的谜题变得更加简单。乐趣在于发散思维、对网格的观察以及鲜明的现代英国口语。通过在 observer.co.uk 订阅,即可在线游玩金发姑娘存档。 $^1$ T< / td><> $^2$ S< / ><> $^3$ P< / ><> $^4$ S< / >< rowspan="2">< / ><> $^5$ G< / ><> $^6$ E< / ><> $^7$ …

Madeleine McCann: The Case That Broke Britain Prime Video

一部令人心碎的纪录片,讲述了贝尔迪娜·奥登约(Beldina Odenyo)的故事。这位苏格兰-肯尼亚裔创作歌手的嗓音、技巧和情感厚度与杰夫·巴克利(Jeff Buckley)相呼应。2021年10月,她在爱丁堡的亚舍尔音乐厅(Usher Hall)惊艳全场;两周后,她结束了自己的生命。正如她的姐姐所说,她的音乐仍然是“对破碎之意……以及生存之意最纯粹的表达”。CMc 在那个三岁孩子失踪近20周年之际,一部两集的真实犯罪纪录片探讨了近期社交媒体对该案件的痴…

Echoes from Below: Exploring Britain's Caves BBC Four, 8pm

恐深症患者请注意,这部纪录片将潜入新的史诗级深度,主要是皮克区(Peak District)的泰坦洞(Titan),该洞被认为是英国所有洞穴中垂直落差最大的。泰坦洞由洞穴探险家戴夫·尼克松(Dave Nixon)于1999年发现,他及其团队现在采用3D扫描仪来探索泰坦洞的真实规模。克雷斯韦尔峭壁(Creswell Crags)、金弗埃杰(Kinver Edger)和伍基洞(Wookey Hole)也将出现在片中。KR

Portrait Artist of the Year 2026 Sky Atlantic, 9pm

第13季的人员更新对主持人斯蒂芬·曼根(Stephen Mangan)与评委泰-山·希伦伯格(Tai-Shan Schierenberg)之间“兄弟情”的粉丝来说是个坏消息。艺术家乔纳森·叶欧(Jonathan Yeo)、艺术史学家凯蒂·赫塞尔(Katy Hessel)以及伦敦弗里兹艺术博览会(Frieze London)总监伊娃·朗格雷特(Eva Langret)在第一集中逐渐进入状态,参赛者们将捕捉伦尼·詹姆斯(Lenny James)、瓦妮莎·威廉姆…

Film Medusa Deluxe

(托马斯·哈迪曼导演, 2022) BBC Two, 12.05am 托马斯·哈迪曼(Thomas Hardiman)的大胆处女作是当代英国电影中一部厚颜无耻、古灵精怪且富有创造力的异类,这是一部设定在美发比赛中的谋杀谜案。随着罗比·瑞安(Robbie Ryan)的镜头在更衣室之间穿梭——整部电影拍摄得仿佛一个长镜头——我们遇到了由出色演员阵容饰演的各种证人和嫌疑人,包括克莱尔·珀金斯(Clare Perkins)、凯拉·梅克尔(Kayla Meikle)…

周五 1 min
Friday

《拿回它:Cymande的故事》(Getting It Back: The Story of Cymande) BBC Four, 10.40pm 一部节奏舒缓、循环往复且充满爱意的 2022 年纪录片,讲述了被 Fugees、De La Soul 和 Wu-Tang Clan 采样过的“失踪”英国心理放克乐队 Cymande 的故事。Cymande 由七位加勒比出生音乐家于 1971 年在伦敦南部成立,在公开的种族主义和隐秘的音乐产业肤色禁令时期录制了三…

📑 🇺🇸 美国与美洲政经 (Americas & US) (50篇)

The lesson of Christa Pike

面对死刑执行失败这种令人惊悚的场面,其实有一个解决方案。 那就是停止执行死刑。 被定罪的谋杀犯克里斯塔·派克(Christa Pike)在经历了两次本应致命的戊巴比妥钠注射后,昨日虽仍存活但处于危急状态。此前,美国最高法院已批准让她成为田纳西州 200 多年来首位被处决的女性。 死刑反对者将她的案例视为死刑野蛮性的进一步证据,事实也的确如此。派克的律师表示,执行团队在尝试寻找她手臂静脉时至少失败了七次,并对她的“基本医疗需求表现出蓄意的漠视”。美国监狱当局…

Green party to vote on Zionism motion

绿党成员今天将在布赖顿举行的党代会上,就极具争议的“锡安主义即种族主义”动议进行投票。如果该动议通过,将改变该党的官方政策。动议称,“锡安主义……将被视为任何其他形式的种族主义,且本动议将由反种族主义政策工作组在适当情况下并按照其常规惯例予以落实”。前国会议员卡罗琳·卢卡斯(Caroline Lucas)在《今日》(Today)节目中表示,她对该动议有“严重担忧”,且不会支持该动议。党魁扎克·波兰斯基(Zack Polanski)拒绝阐述其观点,但表示他正…

The expectation is for a steady-as-she-goes budget that avoids spooking the markets

在财务上吃亏,但这正是其目的所在:这是允许市长在当地经济繁荣时分享利益的另一面。尽管如此,这也带来了风险。财政研究所(IFS)周五警告称,如果设计不周,税收下放可能会扩大地区不平等,而非缩小不平等。我们可能得到的不是每个邮政编码区都在增长,而是日益严重的“邮政编码彩票”现象。 一份狭隘地聚焦于权力下放和针对生活成本措施的预算案前景,也引起了一些工党人物的不安。《卫报》周五报道称,政府内部人士担心新任财政大臣缺乏清晰的规划,且预算制定过程“力度不足”。 更广…

Karl Mathiesen

反恐警察昨日表示,一名因与费尔福德皇家空军基地(RAF Fairford)发生的可疑事件相关而在威斯敏斯特被捕的英伊双国籍人士已获保释。 上周末在格洛斯特郡基地附近被捕的其他五名嫌疑人(均为英国国民)也被决定保释,这一决定引起了白宫的关注。但英国两名最资深的大律师表示,尽管面临政治压力,警方的行动是恰当的。 政府反恐立法独立审查员乔纳森·霍尔(Jonathan Hall)表示:“警方能够保持足够的独立性,无视特朗普总统在远方的言论,这是一件好事。” 在五名…

‘They’re clear they’re innocent and they’re going to prove it’

安迪·伯纳姆的前副市长支持曼彻斯特城,并批评英超联赛对该足球俱乐部财务状况的调查。此前,该俱乐部被裁定违反多项规定。作者:凯瑟琳·尼兰(Catherine Neilan)和乔恩·昂格德-托马斯(Jon Ungoed-Thomas) “曼彻斯特主义”的构建者、安迪·伯纳姆任职期间的大曼彻斯特区前副市长,对英超联赛针对曼彻斯特城足球俱乐部财务状况的调查发起了猛烈批评。 现任曼彻斯特城名誉主席理查德·利斯(Richard Leese)表示支持其所有者。 “他们很…

After investment, in 2026

“直接参与到过程中”。他因最初对裁决发表的一些言论而受到批评,他曾表示:“当人们匆忙做出判断并宣布他人有罪时,这令人沮丧。” 上周三,他告诉 BBC:“我将非常担心失去他们 [曼城的股东]。他们在建设现代曼彻斯特的过程中一直是如此巨大的合作伙伴。” No 10 随后发布了一份新声明:“初步裁决是严重的,不能有任何暗示任何人凌驾于规则之上”,并强调了“独立程序”。 一名发言人表示:“无论在何处确认了违规行为,责任人均应承担相应的后果。”

Botched Tennessee execution exposes death row's reliance on weak, fake or expired drugs

由于无法从制药公司获得致命镇静剂,美国监狱只能利用现有资源——而像克里斯塔·派克(Christa Pike)这样的囚犯则为此付出了代价。 伊莎贝尔·科尔斯(Isabel Coles)报道 上周田纳西州一家监狱在执行一名女性死刑时出现失误,这引起了人们对美国获取致命注射药物之阴暗供应链的关注。 克里斯塔·派克的律师表示,她在周三被注射了两剂戊巴比妥(pentobarbital)——一种同样用于动物安乐死和辅助自杀的镇静剂——之后,目前处于昏迷状态,已插管并使…

Oil giants gather to feast while Trump calls the shots in scramble for Venezuela's riches

一场“黑金热”正吸引着企业家和独立钻探者涌向加拉加斯,渴望开发该国由美国控制的庞大储量 Thomas Graham 上周,在加拉加斯的高尔夫球场和牛排馆里,气氛就像回到了过去。 “委内瑞拉是现在最值得去的地方,”卡塔尔公司 UCC Oil and Gas Holding 的董事埃里克·凯斯库拉(Erik Keskula)在观察委内瑞拉首都万豪酒店内兴奋的人群时说道。

'There's always give and take in negotiations – and the Americans are more take than give' Venezuelan delegate

前往瑞士,并因涉嫌在多个国家洗钱而接受调查。他否认有任何不当行为,且从未被判定犯罪。 根据白宫宣布的协议,五角大楼持有 Nabep 35% 的股份,而 Nabep 则与委内瑞拉签署了一项为期 100 年的协议,旨在开发 17 个油田,这些油田拥有 650 亿桶石油。美国国务院将能够以生产成本购买其中 20% 的石油,该价格远低于市场价。 “特朗普希望这件事能快速实现,”常驻加拉加斯的危机组织(Crisis Group)分析师菲尔·冈森(Phil Gunso…

I did Manchesterism – in Liverpool Michael Heseltine

“曼彻斯特主义”是安迪·伯纳姆演讲的一个恰当标题,他在演讲中呼吁英国每个邮政编码区域都能实现增长。我也发表过类似的演讲,尽管那些演讲被贴上“利物浦主义”的标签会更合适。现在他身为首相,处于能够推动权力下放议程的位置,我一直满怀期待。 我不怀疑他的信念。在担任大曼彻斯特市市长期间,他展示了那个职位能实现什么,但全国有一半地区没有这样的下放框架,而且即使在都会区,过多的权力仍然集中在中央政府的白厅各部门手中。 我太熟悉那些部门如何为任何威胁到其主导地位的提案制…

I bear the scars of meetings with councillors whose world I was about to end

大都市区。他应当立即立法将郡(counties)转换为市长制单一管理区,首任市长于 2027 年选出。他将不得不面对这样一种论点,即郡的划分并不总是能反映经济现实。但不能让“最优”成为“良好”的敌人。该项目应当紧迫地推进。 创造财富的紧迫需求排除了创建新一类权力机构所涉及的选择和延迟。每位市长应当 被赋予制定地方经济计划的职责,并被邀请申请中央资金,说明如果提供此类资金将能吸引多少额外投资。这一过程将使当地公司、组织、大学、准政府机构(quangos)以及…

Peter Prince

这位作家“颠覆了传统”,并在 BBC 的《奥本海默》剧集中抢先于克里斯托弗·诺兰地探讨了该主题 彼得·普林斯编写了电影《击杀》(The Hit, 1984) 的剧本,昆汀·塔伦蒂诺称其为他最喜欢的电影之一。在 1980 年美国总统大选的最后一场电视辩论中,吉米·卡特被认为犯了一个失误,当时他说他询问了 13 岁的女儿对当前最重要问题的看法,而她的回答是“核武器控制”。随着冷战升级,美国人更倾向于立场更强硬的罗纳德·里根。 次日晚上,BBC 开始播出一部与波…

债务 1 min
The debt

人工智能对资本的渴求自 2025. 年初以来一直在改变债务市场。超大规模云计算厂商(Hyperscalers)正在发行更多的公司债券,投资者通过购买这些债券向公司出借资金,以换取利息支付。这正在影响投资者对小型公司、甚至国家的债券需求。 “这确实是前所未有的,”查诺斯(Chanos)表示。“我们发现唯一规模更大的只有 2010 到 2020. 年间的中国房地产泡沫。但那是整个基于债务的经济模式。[这种风险] 并不” 上周,日本软银(SoftBank)筹集了…

Thought we had bond problems? For beleaguered France, 'le spread' is only going to get worse

Ben Zaranko 在其他新闻接踵而至的猛烈冲击下,如果你没有注意到这一点,是可以被原谅的,但债券市场又经历了一个动荡的周。 英国政府的长期借贷成本在上周四触及 6% —— 这是自 1998 年以来首次突破该阈值 —— 随后回落。美国政府的借贷成本升至 2002. 年以来的最高水平。然而,由于投资者对这个欧元区第二大经济体政治动荡的担忧日益增加,法国反而成为了关注的焦点。 法国 10 年期债券的收益率(即投资者向政府提供贷款所要求的回报)在周四升至 $…

G7 bows to US diesel demands with ‘substantial’ release in 20 days

Jeevan Vasagar 在美国施压要求降低油泵价格后,七国集团(G7)国家领导人已同意从战略储备中释放 1 亿桶柴油和原油,且不限制出口。 该计划将包括在前 20 天内进行一次“大规模”的柴油释放——这将带来一些受欢迎的缓解。根据独家提供给《观察者报》的数据,基于冲突爆发以来数月间的平均增幅,英国的消费者和企业每天为柴油支付的费用比中东战争爆发前多出 2000万英镑。 根据智库 Transport & Environment UK 的分析,对于汽车驾…

The coming week...

周一:Meta、X、TikTok 在高等法院对英国通信管理局(Ofcom)提出挑战。周二:英国金融行为监管局(FCA)年度公开会议。周四:特易购(Tesco)业绩公布,百事公司(PepsiCo)业绩公布。 ● 经济数据 / 报告 周一:新车注册月度数据。 周三:国际货币基金组织(IMF)总裁克里斯塔利娜·格奥尔基耶娃(Kristalina Georgieva)在泰国发表讲话。周四:英格兰银行行长安德鲁·贝利(Andrew Bailey)、首席经济学家休·皮…

[Movers and shakers] Raise interest rates, says Bank economist

下方所示的美国经济学家兼英格兰银行利率制定者凯瑟琳·曼(Catherine Mann)上周表示,央行需要提高利率以维持在市场中的信誉。在英格兰银行货币政策委员会的最近两次会议上,她 与维持利率不变的多数决定持不同意见,两次均投票支持增加 0.25%。曼被视为某种程度上的通胀“鹰派”,她认为金融条件过于宽松,无法遏制由能源价格上涨注入的通胀压力,且政策制定者不能依赖金融市场来替他们完成工作。油气价格的上涨可能会在委员会 11 月 5 日下次会议时,促使其他决…

City's free pass on climate risk reporting weakens green efforts

在推动英国企业绿色化的努力遭遇挫折之际,英国金融行为监管局(FCA)上周三撤回了要求上市公司根据国际标准报告气候相关风险的强制计划。相反,它仅要求拒绝报告的公司解释原因。 监管机构的理由有两点。它表示,强制执行该标准可能导致成本过高,从而损害英国上市公司的竞争力。此外,由于 FTSE 350 指数公司中已有 92% 自愿遵守,为何还要强行推动? 此外还面临来自国外的竞争压力:欧盟正在放宽其气候披露制度,而特朗普政府已经废除了美国相应的规则。随着伦敦以令人担…

(Glenn Martens, 第14页) Federico 是一位出生于罗马、定居米兰的摄影师。他喜欢拍摄人们从事自己热爱之事的瞬间,前往他不熟悉的地方,以及享受慵懒、缓慢的早餐。你买过最成功的时尚单品是什么?“在东京一家小店买的一条裤子。现在我想买第二条,但上面没有任何品牌标识,我也记不清那家店在哪里了。所以我穿它非常小心,只在特殊场合穿。” Shaad d'Souza (Glenn Martens, 第14页)

'The beauty makeover shows of 20 years ago broke women down to rebuild them. It was compulsive telly'

曾经我可能会安下心来享受一部真人秀,而现在我只能满足于观看关于真人秀恐怖之处的纪录片。你可以从我的目光神态中看出,也可以从我的午餐中看出。 我属于在21世纪初成年的一代,那是“0号码”的时代,是名人皮肤上的橘皮组织被圈上红色“耻辱圆圈”的时代,但即便在那时,涌现出的改造类真人秀依然具有震撼人心的力量。在英国,我们被“宠坏”了,有《不要这样穿》(What Not to Wear)里的特林尼和苏珊娜(她们让女性脱光衣服,并说她们的发型看起来像妓女),还有《年轻…

Join the Ivy League

曾经仅限于美国校园, 预科生风格(PREPPY STYLE)如今再度流行, 以其永恒的特质化解现代焦虑 在未来,当机器接管一切时,幸存的人类将穿什么?后末日电影倾向于假设只有最实用的服装才能生存下来。Carhartt 夹克和军队剩余物资,皮靴,以及印有早已在时间摧残中消失的机油品牌褪色标志的卡车司机帽。但有一种观点认为,人类在地下衣橱中仍会为考究的西装外套、条纹领带和奇诺裤留出空间,因为预科生风格不仅具有可靠的周期性,而且在某种程度上是不可避免的。而现在,…

13 1 min

2026 年欧洲公路自行车锦标赛在哪个国家举行?该国的自行车之星包括 Primož Roglič 和 Tadej Pogačar。 1991 年,谁在 18 岁时担任 i-D 杂志的时尚总监,成为国际杂志历史上最年轻的时尚总监?他后来担任了《英国版 Vogue》的主编。 玛格野猫(margay)和虎猫(ocelot)是哪种动物的野生类型? 1766 年的“大奶酪骚乱”发生在哪个城市的年度鹅市(Goose Fair)期间?暴徒在街道上滚动奶酪轮,市长在试图恢…

Look at Manchester, no wonder Burnham is torn

首相在士绅化期间担任市长,但未来仍不确定。作者:罗里·史密斯 (Rory Smith) 罗伊·埃文斯 (Roy Evans) 坐在折叠露营椅上,画板轻巧地搁在膝盖上,铅笔在上方盘旋,他正审视着斯塔布斯磨坊 (Stubbs Mill) 那经过精心修复的锯齿形屋顶的角度。 埃文斯很乐意绘制任何事物——在他的书中填满了乡村教堂、石桥和宏伟的建筑立面——这些都是他每周与一个名为“城市写生者” (Urban Sketchers) 组织曼彻斯特分会一同外出时创作的。“…

[The NFL star who rejected Harvard] Jonathan Taylor wanted to be an astrophysicist for Nasa, writes Paddy von Behr

学术卓越往往似乎与体育成功互不相容。那些幸运地兼具智慧与体魄的少数人往往在早期就选择专业化,因此当我们看到弗兰克·兰帕德在拉丁语 GCSE 考试中获得 A* 时会赞许地点头,或者分享曼努埃尔·阿坎吉惊人算术速度的病毒式视频。在成为世界上最著名的在世科学家之前,尼尔·德格拉斯·泰森曾是他高中摔跤队的无敌队长。 乔纳森·泰勒则略有不同。在高中快结束时,当顶尖的足球潜力股通常在权衡奖学金邀请时,他正瞄准 NASA 的职业生涯,并申请在哈佛大学学习天体物理学。泰勒…

GOLF

DP世界巡回赛 阿尔弗雷德·邓希尔链路锦标赛(圣安德鲁斯、卡诺斯蒂和金斯巴恩斯) – 第3轮(除非另有说明,均为英国和爱尔兰选手,标准杆 72):198℃ Jarvis (南非) 66 67 65,200 A Meronk (波兰) 71 66 63,M Jordan 69 65 66,201 T Detry (比利时) 70 66 65,202 N Noergaard (丹麦) 70 65 67,J Skov Olesen (丹麦) 70 69 63,2…

David Byrne Singer and author, 74

“即使是互联网上的东西也经常被忽视”:大卫·拜恩 图片来源:Getty Images / Contour RA 这位前 Talking Heads 乐队主唱谈论被遗忘的人类智慧实例、进化生物学以及拍摄他的巡演纪录片。 大卫·拜恩是一位博学者,他的职业生涯始于 Talking Heads 乐队。自该乐队 1991 年分道扬镳以来,出生于苏格兰并在加拿大和美国长大的拜恩发行了 12 张个人专辑(有时与布莱恩·伊诺和 St Vincent 等艺术家合作),以及包…

The Fergusons were what Orwell called proud working class: smart, trade unionised, football- obsessed

弗格森现在并不否认这一点,并直接提到“我在[打字机制造商雷明顿-兰德(Remington Rand)]工程部门担任工会代表的经历。当我们罢工时,我召集了所有学徒。罢工是为了给学徒争取更好的标准和薪水。我们的薪水很不错,因为我们是一家美国公司。但我们有责任帮助其他人。全部出击——这就是核心信息。每个人都在用锤子和木槌敲击他们的机器。那太令人兴奋了。” 他补充道:“我喜欢让球员到我的办公室来。I liked to talk to them. 我有时会对年轻球员…

OF SILICON VALLEY

当我在 20 世纪 80 年代中期,在朋克和后朋克浪潮之后开始撰写关于音乐的文章时,感恩死团(Grateful Dead)被视为是对和平、爱、扎染服装和无休止即兴演奏的嬉皮士时代的回归。如果作家或音乐家提到他们,通常带着一种近乎嘲讽的轻视。 涅槃乐队(Nirvana)的库尔特·科本(Kurt Cobain)对感恩死团尤为鄙视,认为他们通过成为美国收入最高的巡演团体之一而背叛了他们的嬉皮士理想。在提到该乐队的创作歌手时,科本曾说过,他唯一愿意穿的扎染 T 恤…

They taught me that you have to be generous with your content, delight your community

“任何事情”。《全球概览目录》(The Whole Earth Catalog)现在被认为是互联网的模拟原型。 布兰德并非唯一一个与感恩死之舞乐队(Grateful Dead)产生交集的早期互联网乌托邦主义者。约翰·佩里·巴洛(John Perry Barlow)是一位毕业于哈佛大学的诗人兼散文家,也是该乐队节奏吉他手鲍勃·韦尔(Bob Weir)的老同学。到1971年巴洛在纽约的一场感恩死之舞乐队演唱会上与韦尔重新取得联系时,他已经与他们的波长同步,因为…

Lorna Simpson's blue period

这位先驱摄影师是首位在纽约现代艺术博物馆(MoMa)举办个展的非裔美国女性。她向卡迪什·莫里斯讲述了她早年与种族主义的遭遇、她后期那些色彩斑斓的作品,以及她如何通过拼贴和星座式布局构建一个黑人历史档案。 洛娜·辛普森六岁时,在一位好友家中偶然看到一本名为《运动》(The Movement)的纪实摄影集。这位66岁的艺术家说:“这是一本关于美国民权时代以及美国南部三 K 党恐吓黑人的书。”她之前已经熟悉这本书——她的父母就有一本,她曾和母亲一起翻阅过几次。然…

As a young artist, the most important thing is to understand your own mind, what your language is

她说:“这不是关于控制,即每个人都必须认同我对作品的看法,而是对话需要具有洞察力,而不是带有种族主义或混乱的。” 与她的概念摄影作品相呼应的是她的巨幅绘画。Simpson决定在2014年探索这一媒介,并开始创作风格抽象、规模宏大的作品,其中充满了闪烁的蓝色调;这些蓝色灵感源自大海、北极、夜空,以及靛蓝的种植(一种由奴隶劳工耕种的作物),乃至蓝调音乐。“我有这么多非常出色的画家朋友。开始尝试时有点尴尬,”她坦言。她在寻找新媒介节奏的不适感中坚持了下来,最终创…

Wendy Ide

《挖掘者》(Digger) (129 分钟, 15 级) 导演:亚历杭德罗·冈萨雷斯·伊纳里图;主演:汤姆·克鲁斯, 瑞兹·艾哈迈德, 约翰·古德曼 这部电影真是彻头彻尾地令人恼火。这位墨西哥导演亚历杭德罗·冈萨雷斯·伊纳里图的最新作品是一部充满大胆野心的作品。它展现了与他那部获得多项奥斯卡奖的《鸟人》相媲美的精湛技术实力和电影工艺。与此同时,它也像伊纳里图最近那部广受诟病的电影《巴多,关于少数真相的虚构编年史》一样,同样令人厌恶且自我沉溺。它将汤姆·克鲁…

Knife: The Attempted Murder of Salman Rushdie

(107 分钟,15 级)导演:亚历克斯·吉布尼;主演:萨尔曼·鲁什迪、瑞秋·埃莉莎·格里菲斯 一切的起点是那把刀——2022 年在纽约州肖托夸,一名袭击者在一次疯狂的攻击中用它袭击了作家萨尔曼·鲁什迪。但这部涵盖了该作者一生及其身体与心理康复过程的广泛纪录片中,最犀利的元素是鲁什迪本人强大的心智。该片使用了鲁什迪的妻子瑞秋·埃莉莎·格里菲斯在震惊事件发生后拍摄的私人且极具亲密感的片段,以及大量的档案资料,其核心目的在于展现鲁什迪敏捷的才智。 他以坦诚且几…

Ruin: It's Not Just Music Kaitlyn Aurelia Smith (Someone Special)

Kaitlyn Aurelia Smith 以其对模块合成器抽象甚至氛围感的运用而闻名,一段时间以来,她一直对舞池音乐充满好奇。《Ruin》——这是她自 2016 年突破性作品《Ears》以来的第五张个人专辑——完全投身于此。今年 5 月,这位多产且有时倾向于新世纪音乐(new age)的美国电子作曲家在巴比肯中心与伦敦当代管弦乐团共同演出。据报道,安可环节变成了一场小型狂欢派对,尽管受限于舒适的座椅。 《Ruin》中九首充满活力的曲目充斥着数字失真和鼓打…

在 The Smiths 乐队解散后的二十多年里,Johnny Marr 一直扮演着“雇佣枪手”的角色,直到 2013 年他才最终安定下来开启个人职业生涯。这份稳定的“日间工作”确实很适合他——在去年的美国巡演中经过实战检验,他第五张专辑中的歌曲是他迄今为止最令人印象深刻的一组。令人欣慰的是,这张唱片比 2022 年冗长的《Fever Dreams Pts 1-4》更为简洁(10 首歌在 45 分钟内),尽管他也在此中克制了一些在那张专辑中较为偏向电子的尝…

How the CIA weaponised western culture

《谁在为此买单?》(Who Paid the Piper?)讲述了一个令人难以置信的故事:美国情报部门如何资助艺术、电影和文学,试图在意识形态的冷战中获胜。威廉·博伊德(William Boyd)重新审视了这本书,它是作者已故的弗朗西丝·斯托诺·桑德斯(Frances Stonor Saunders)留给世人的持久见证。 我与弗朗西丝·斯托诺·桑德斯的相识很大程度上是通过我们共同联系的克雷格·雷恩(Craig Raine)的文学杂志《Areté》,她是该杂…

The animal is a mammal with a snout that is ‘narrow and tube-like, curious and soft’

一个狡诈的政府环境官员出示了证据,表明在所有猛犸象(mimmoth)被杀害的地方,女性都无法受孕。 自从开始阅读这部小说以来,我大脑中负责分析的部分一直在试图确定,阿尔德曼(Alderman)——这位包括《权力》(The Power)和《未来》(The Future)在内的科幻畅销书作者——是将猛犸象作为什么的隐喻。是悲伤——那种作为冲击而至,但很快便变得熟悉的衰弱感?是人工智能或我们最恐惧的未来技术的替代品?还是关于我们在气候危机中应负责任的陈述?我后来…

Yiyun Li 'Death is not unfamiliar to me'

中国出生的作家讲述她失去两个儿子的自杀悲剧,以及她为何为了创作新小说而学习钢琴。作者:Ellen Peirson-Hagger 李翊云,53岁,是一位作家,同时也是普林斯顿大学的教授。她出生于中国北京,1996年移居美国,并完全使用英文写作。她的作品包括短篇小说集《千年祈祷》(A Thousand Years of Good Prayers)、小说《理由尽头》(Where Reasons End)和《鹅之书》(The Book of Goose),以及在2…

[Chess by Jonathan Speelman] Diagram 1

衷心祝贺 11 岁的 Bodhana Sivanandan,她在萨马尔罕代表英格兰队出战一号盘的卓越表现,使她成为了历史上最年轻的女子特级大师。在之前的对局中,Bodhana 建立了强大的深色格控制权,随后她通过 25 h3 Bf5 26 Nxf5 gxf5 27 Qe6+ Kg6 兑现了优势。你能看出她是如何以一种精妙且高效的方式结束战斗的吗?(见结尾。) 乌兹别克斯坦在主场赢得了第 46 届奥林匹克比赛,上周日在萨马尔罕的最后一轮中击败乌克兰,最终获得…

A word about... Banned books

今天标志着“禁书周”的开始。在此期间,美国图书馆协会(ALA)会公布在过去 12 个月中,美国图书馆和学校中有多少书目受到了质疑并被禁。这一年度固定活动已经运行了 40 多年,它讲述了一个阴郁的故事。根据 ALA 的数据,2000 年有 378 部书目因要求从图书馆移除而受到质疑。在接下来的二十年里,这个数字有所下降,但在 2021 年骤增:当年有 1,858 部书目被要求移除;2022 年为 2,571 部;而在 2025, 4,235 部——这是禁书周…

每行、每列和每个 $3 \times 3$ 方格必须包含数字 1-9,此外还有一个额外挑战——四个高亮的 $3 \times 3$ 蓝色方块共同组成了一组额外的方格,其中也必须包含 1-9 且不得重复。 4. A) Biddloclast 破坏书籍的行为被称为 biblioclasm。与之相关的是名词“schools”(“books”的回文——也就是说,为了被摧毁而聚集在一起的书籍,主要作为一种随意声明。 5. (A) 佛罗里达 根据美国自由协会,佛罗里达…

Film The Order

(Justin Kurzel, 2024) BBC Two, 10pm 澳大利亚导演贾斯汀·库泽尔(Justin Kurzel)在描绘极端边缘人物方面很有经验,从 2011 年处女作《斯诺顿》(Snowtown)中的杀手,到《尼特拉姆》(Nitram)中困扰的孤独者。这一次是美国新纳粹——在这部设定在 20 世纪 80 年代的真实犯罪剧中,他们是 FBI 追捕的目标。裘德·洛(Jude Law)饰演追捕激进极右翼派系的特工,尼古拉斯·霍尔特(Nichola…

Krapopolis

Three, 11.40pm 这部由丹·哈蒙(Dan Harmon,曾创作《瑞克和莫蒂》)创作的成人动画的六集入门篇,在美国已经播出了三季。在一个比神话希腊更具神话色彩的版本中,提拉尼斯(Tyrannis,理查德·艾约德 饰)是克拉波利斯的半神半庸王。马特·贝里(Matt Berry)和汉娜·瓦丁汉姆(Hannah Waddingham)为他来自冥界的父母配音。其余部分则是古代历史与喜剧的结合。CMc

Radio 4 2 min

上午6:00《今日》(Today) 9:00《开启一周》(Start the Week) 9:45《希望咖啡馆》(Café Hope) 10:00《女性时间》(Woman's Hour) 11:00《另一个国家》(Another Country),主持人:詹姆斯·雷班克斯 (James Rebanks) 11:45《去还是不去》(To Go or Not to Go) 12:00 新闻 12:04《你和我》(You and Yours) 下午1:00《世界…

📑 📰 国际与综合深度报道 (General Reports) (102篇)

Prisoners released early hard to track

缓刑监督员警告称,他们可能难以追踪上周四从监狱释放的数百名囚犯,其中许多人将无处居住。为了缓解监狱过度拥挤,约 2,000 名罪犯将在下个月被释放,另有 3,000 人将在明年分阶段释放。司法部表示,正在启动最大规模的电子监控扩展——预计出狱的罪犯将被佩戴电子脚镣并接受监控。然而,一份新报告显示,仅有 55% 的 GPS 电子脚镣被及时安装。

The PM is a true football fan. It's why he scored an own goal

Rory Smith 安迪·伯纳姆和基尔·斯塔默都被认为是真正、真诚且热衷的足球迷。首相经常被看到穿着一件 80 年代中期的埃弗顿球衣跑步,而斯塔默多年来一直持有阿森纳的季票。 然而,伯纳姆的不同之处在于,他的球迷身份对于那些倾向于对此类事情持怀疑态度的人群来说,具有一种内在的真实感:大卫·卡梅伦曾将他声称支持的球队阿斯顿维拉与西汉姆联搞混。 由于某些不完全明确的原因,斯塔默似乎被归为了同一类。但足球本应是伯纳姆的强项之一,是他吸引广大选民的核心特质,也是…

The godfather of weight loss drugs: 'I know there can be bad outcomes'

在首次接受采访时,发现了导致 GLP-1 类药物开发的激素的加拿大科学家雷·佩德森(Ray Pederson)告诉詹姆斯·塔珀(James Tapper),为什么他对这些药物被广泛使用的潜在风险感到担忧。 如果没有雷·佩德森,减肥药可能根本不存在。但这并非一份让他完全感到舒心的遗产。 “我确实有真正的担忧,”他说。这位加拿大生理学家是一位先驱,他是发现首个控制食欲的激素——胃抑制多肽(GIP)的双人团队中的初级合作伙伴。他们的发现构成了整个 920亿美元 …

A duty of care

唐郡,班布里奇 我们很高兴恩凯奇受到我们“共同改善记录”(Better Records Together)活动的启发而寻求获取其记录,但令我们感到沮丧和心灰意冷的是,这一过程竟然导致了如此痛苦的经历。遗憾的是,这反映了我们从数百人口中听到的情况。大多数人面临着长时间的延迟、糟糕的沟通,以及最终未能得到解答的问题。

蛇雕 1 min
Bateleur eagle

真正的飞行只有一种形式,而我是它唯一的真正女主人。真正的飞行并非关于琐碎的拍打,或者更糟的,人类那震耳欲聋的发动机。真正的飞行是完美的滑翔:当我一天飞行 300 英里,且距离地面通常不超过 30 米(100 英尺)时,我消耗的能量与一个躺在沙发上的人一样多。

周三 1 min
Wednesday

没有尾巴我们如何转向?通过倾斜,就像骑自行车的人类一样。我们如何保持平衡和控制?依靠技巧、经验以及上反角:我们将翅膀保持在浅 V 形。这种构型对于稳定性是最优的——请原谅这些技术术语,但技术是我的痴迷,因为没有它我就会死去。如果我在不稳定的空气中摇晃,上反角能让我迅速恢复到直线平飞状态。

周四 1 min
Thursday

秃鹫能飞得比我们更高,它们在热气流中盘旋以增加高度,直到消失在视线之外。而我们的优势在于低空时的完美滑翔。 我们如何保持平衡与控制?凭借技巧、经验以及上反角——而低空飞行意味着我们总是第一个到达。今天是一头濒死的河马,像往常一样,我独享了它……至少在一段时间内是这样。我不能像鬣狗那样把河马撕开,但眼睛是我的。一如既往。

[High tides] Source: © Crown copyright and/or database rights. All rights reserved. | <td colspan="4">Today | <td colspan="4">Monday | <td colspan="4">Tuesday | Aberdeen | 08:05 | 3.6m | 20:32 | 3.5m | 09:37 | 3.5m | 22:00 | 3.6m | 11:06 | 3.7m | 23:15 | 3.8m | Belfast | 05:26 | 3.0m | 17:56 | 3.1m | 06:57 | 2.8m | 19:20 | 3.1m | 08:30 | 2.9m | 20:40 | 3.3m | Dover | 05:11 | 5.5m | 18:07 | 5.4m | 06:57 | 5.3m | 19:52 | 5.4m | 08:26 | 5.5m | 21:14 | 5.7m | Galway | 11:50 | 4.0m | --- | --- | 00:56 | 3.8m | 13:33 | 4.0m | 02:30 | 4.0m | 14:53 | 4.3m | Harwich | 05:29 | 3.2m | 18:15 | 3.3m | 07:03 | 3.1m | 20:01 | 3.3m | 08:36 | 3.2m | 21:21 | 3.5m | Holyhead | 04:43 | 4.6m | 17:21 | 4.6m | 06:28 | 4.5m | 18:57 | 4.8m | 07:54 | 4.7m | 20:10 | 5.1m | Hull | 13:00 | 6.0m | --- | --- | 01:19 | 5.8m | 14:41 | 6.0m | 03:01 | 6.0m | 15:59 | 6.3m | Leith | 09:07 | 4.6m | 21:45 | 4.5m | 10:38 | 4.6m | 23:12 | 4.6m | 12:03 | 4.8m | --- | --- | Liverpool | 05:18 | 7.7m | 18:01 | 7.6m | 06:55 | 7.5m | 19:34 | 7.8m | 08:26 | 7.8m | 20:52 | 8.3m | London | 07:35 | 5.7m | 20:22 | 6.0m | 09:00 | 5.5m | 21:54 | 6.0m | 10:37 | 5.6m | 23:18 | 6.2m | North Shields | 10:08 | 4.2m | 22:37 | 4.1m | 11:44 | 4.2m | --- | --- | 00:09 | 4.2m | 13:09 | 4.3m | Penzance | 11:09 | 4.5m | --- | --- | 00:10 | 4.2m | 12:56 | 4.5m | 01:50 | 4.4m | 14:19 | 4.8m | Plymouth | 12:02 | 4.5m | --- | --- | 01:01 | 4.2m | 13:44 | 4.5m | 02:50 | 4.3m | 15:14 | 4.7m | Portsmouth | 06:03 | 4.0m | 18:31 | 3.9m | 07:30 | 4.0m | 19:58 | 3.9m | 08:56 | 4.1m | 21:13 | 4.1m | Southport | 04:24 | 7.4m | 17:02 | 7.3m | 05:56 | 7.2m | 18:42 | 7.5m | 07:41 | 7.5m | 20:07 | 8.0m | Weymouth | 00:23 | 1.4m | 12:45 | 1.5m | 02:31 | 1.3m | 14:56 | 1.5m | 03:59 | 1.4m | 16:11 | 1.6m | Wick | 05:47 | 2.8m | 18:12 | 2.9m | 07:24 | 2.8m | 19:40 | 2.9m | 08:53 | 2.9m | 20:57 | 3.1m | Speedy crossword No. 1,617

1m< / >< / ><><>南港< / ><>04:24< / ><>7.4m< / ><>17:02< / ><>7.3m< / ><>05:56< / ><>7.2m< / ><>18:42< / ><>7.5m< / ><>07:41< / ><>7.5m< / ><>20:07< / ><>8.0m< / >< / ><><>韦茅斯< / ><>00:23< / ><>1.4m< / ><>12:45< / ><>1.5m< / ><>02:3…

Lighting up | Today | Monday | Belfast | 1853 to 0735 | 1851 to 0736 | Birmingham | 1837 to 0715 | 1835 to 0717 | Bristol | 1842 to 0718 | 1840 to 0720 | Dover | 1826 to 0702 | 1824 to 0703 | Edinburgh | 1841 to 0724 | 1838 to 0726 | Glasgow | 1845 to 0728 | 1843 to 0730 | Inverness | 1842 to 0728 | 1840 to 0731 | Leeds | 1835 to 0715 | 1833 to 0717 | London | 1833 to 0709 | 1831 to 0711 | Manchester | 1839 to 0718 | 1836 to 0719 | Newcastle | 1835 to 0717 | 1833 to 0719 | Plymouth | 1848 to 0723 | 1846 to 0724 | Swansea | 1847 to 0723 | 1845 to 0725 | <td rowspan="2"> | <td colspan="2">Today | <td colspan="2">Monday | Low | High Weather | Low | High Weather | Oslo | 7 | 15 cloudy | 11 | 19 fair | Ottawa | 4 | 16 fair | 8 | 12 showers | Paris | 14 | 25 fair | 13 | 25 sunny | Prague | 8 | 20 fair | 10 | 21 sunny | Riga | 7 | 16 cloudy | 9 | 15 cloudy | Rio de Janeiro | 20 | 28 showers | 23 | 28 rain | Rome | 16 | 26 sunny | 14 | 26 fair | Seoul | 15 | 26 sunny | 15 | 20 fair | Singapore | 26 | 33 showers | 26 | 33 fair | Sydney | 14 | 23 sunny | 15 | 22 cloudy | Tokyo | 17 | 24 fair | 18 | 24 rain | Toronto | 10 | 20 fair | 9 | 16 windy | Vancouver | 10 | 18 cloudy | 10 | 17 cloudy | Vienna | 6 | 23 sunny | 9 | 22 fair | Warsaw | 8 | 20 cloudy | 9 | 19 fair | Washington | 16 | 18 rain | 15 | 24 fair | ![](images/40427916edd0d849915623bae890be728ca5a9916b202d198869498d21a0f51b.jpg)

< / td><>今天< / ><>周一< / >< / tr><><>贝尔法斯特< / ><>1853 至 0735< / ><>1851 至 0736< / >< / ><><>伯明翰< / ><>1837 至 0715< / ><>1835 至 0717< / >< / ><><>布里斯托< / ><>1842 至 0718< / ><>1840 至 0720< / >< / ><><>多佛< / ><>1826 至 0702< / ><>1824 …

Fun & games for all the family Observers needed How many eights can you make? These dominoes are all in a jumble. How many eights can you make using pips that are side by side or above and below? Once you're finished, why not cut them out and play a game of dominoes!

全家共享的趣味游戏 需要观察员 你能凑出多少个 8?这些多米诺骨牌全部混在了一起。利用相邻或上下排列的点数,你能凑出多少个 8?完成后,为什么不把它们剪下来玩一场多米诺骨牌游戏呢!

When was the last time you cried?

昨天。我不撒谎,我最近情绪波动比较大。更多的是反思和压力过大。我的服装品牌即将成立八周年,对此我感到非常自豪,但我承担的责任也很多。好几周以来,我每天只睡四个小时。 离开派对的最佳时间是什么时候? 凌晨 2 点之后不会发生任何精彩的事情。我是否身体力行?不一定。 如果你能回到过去,你会对 18 岁的自己说什么?活在当下,享受旅程,继续写日记,继续参加派对,并花时间建立自信。

STYLE NOTES BY HELEN SEAMONS

男装中对应于“连衣裙加靴子”的方案是单色穿搭:它易于搭配且无需过多思考,尽管它比相应的女装方案需要更多的单品。 在冬季,这种穿搭最适合搭配黑色、海军蓝、灰色或棕色等中性色。这基本上是一个两步走的过程。Step 1:选择一种颜色。Step 2:几乎所有单品都穿这个颜色——瞧!但一些技巧可以帮助完善整体造型。建议从外套开始反向搭配,因为那是最昂贵的单品。浓郁的巧克力棕色现在非常流行;可以用一件大衣为宽松的西装叠穿增加层次感。 或者从一件 T 恤开始,叠穿一件衬…

[Goat Ledge] The Promenade, Lower, Warrior Square (goatledge.com)

The Promenade, Lower, Warrior Square (goatledge.com) “这一系列色彩缤纷、极具出片效果的小棚屋是当地的标志性场所。这里有现场(或嘈杂的)音乐,全年开放。食物带有怀旧色彩——鱼条面包和细薯条。那种略显傻气且古灵精怪的氛围,被屋顶上的一个巨大山羊模型概括得淋漓尽致。” ## ⑤ St Leonards Gardens

奈杰尔·斯莱特(NIGEL SLATER) 本周烤了一道陶锅番茄,将番茄切成厚片层叠铺放,加入整片罗勒叶,顶端覆盖着一层酥脆的金黄色面包屑,其中露出了布拉塔奶酪(burrata)的乳白色圆顶。我将它们盛在浅碗中,配上撕开的法棍面包,用来蘸取聚集在奶酪周围的番茄汁。我选择了不同大小和成熟度的番茄混合使用。粗糙的马曼德番茄(Marmande)、橙肉番茄和酸甜的樱桃番茄交织在一起。关键点在于,在放入烤盘层叠之前,先在浅锅中轻微煎炸 →

'The change of season has brought with it an appetite for pasta suppers but also for mushrooms. I combine them both'

放入烤盘中层叠。这强化了它们的风味,使那些未完全成熟的番茄变甜,并产生了大量可供吸收的汁液。预烹饪并非必不可少,但它能带来更深层、更浓郁的风味。番茄在高温下生长旺盛,这解释了今年夏天优质果实的丰富。 这既可以作为主菜,也可以作为配菜,随你心愿。煮熟的奥尔佐意面(orzo pasta)或圆润的莫格拉比亚(mograbia)球将是吸收番茄汁的绝佳选择,蒸褐米或细库斯库斯(couscous)同样如此。我们仅凭好面包就将其吃光了,但这道菜也非常适合搭配烤羊排或烤原…

Flavours built on contrasts

我认为,最好的烹饪往往在于理解哪些关键食材需要彼此相伴。鸭肉就是一个很好的例子。一块烹饪得当的鸭胸肉,拥有酥脆的表皮和下方厚实的一层脂肪,本身就非常完美,不需要添加太多东西。它需要的是对比:菊苣带来了苦味和脆感,梨带来了甜味和酸度,而榛子则提供了另一种层次的浓郁,且不会让菜肴过于沉重。在某种程度上,这是一种相当传统的组合,在每年的这个时候,我所有的餐厅通常都会提供这类菜肴。 茄子在烹饪程度远超你认为应当停止的时候味道最好——皮呈黑色,内部的果肉几乎坍塌。用…

TASTES OF THE SEASON

罗伯特·塞缪尔·汉森 (ROBERT SAMUEL HANSON) 我们回到了月份中带有字母“r”的季节,这意味着本土牡蛎重新回到了菜单上(本土牡蛎在夏季产卵,这会影响其口感和味道)。请留意全国各地的各类牡蛎节(法尔茅斯将于 8-10 October 率先拉开帷幕)。

Loo roll.

它之所以是白色的,是因为某个地方的某个人决定这样看起来比较好看。于是他们对其进行了漂白,添加了化学物质,并称之为进步。 我们认为这是没有必要的。因此,我们的纸是褐色的,正如大自然原本的样子。 无漂白。无强效化学物质。无需这些。 我们纸张的每一个环节都经过深思熟虑——从我们不使用化石燃料的工厂,到包装盒上环保的油墨。

Flock to the rock

“萨拉效应”在土耳其全面爆发。穆罕默德·萨拉(Mo Salah)在特拉布宗(Trabzon)高地一块看似平凡的岩石旁发布了一张照片后,该地点成为了热门打卡地,粉丝们纷纷涌向这块岩石。现场曾竖起一块指示牌并放置了一张长凳,但据报道这些物品随后被盗。当地媒体报道称,现场可能会安装监控摄像头。

Jorge Chumillas CFO 2013-16

前城市足球集团 (City Football Group) 首席财务官。他于 2013 年加入俱乐部,并于 2016 年因健康原因离职。丘米利亚斯的名字出现在《明镜周刊》(Der Spiegel) 2018 年公布的泄露邮件中,其中详细记录了内部赞助资金的情况。 穆罕默德·穆巴拉克·阿尔-马兹鲁伊 (Mohamed Mubarak Al Mazrouei) 董事会 2010-22 马丁·埃德尔曼 (Martin Edelman) 董事会 2008- 马克·…

Pep Guardiola Manager 2016-26

英超联赛调查期间的曼彻斯特城主教练。瓜迪奥拉在俱乐部十年的任期内赢得了 20 座奖杯,包括六次联赛冠军。在被问及指控时,他多次为曼城辩护,在 2023 年指控首次公布时,他表示他的“第一个想法是我们已经被定罪了”。上周在对判决做出回应时,他告诉俱乐部的球迷:“我在这里——比以往任何时候都坚定。” 奥马尔·贝拉达 (Omar Berrada) 2016-20

Etihad clash reminder of City Women's ties to club's 114 charges

帕克·汉弗莱斯 (Parker Humphreys) 周四,当曼彻斯特城女足成为英超联赛宣布独立委员会认定俱乐部“所有财务指控均成立”后首支公开出战的曼城球队时,并没有太多迹象表明这家俱乐部正面临生存威胁。在与皇家马德里 1-1 战平期间,部分球迷唱起了谢赫·曼苏尔的名字,但大多数人仍坚持唱那些针对女足队伍的更熟悉的歌曲。 主流观点认为,这些指控与曼城女足几乎没有关系;如果说有什么关联,那就是多年来针对曼城的批评在于其所有者在女足方面投入的资金不足。 曼城…

‘We wouldn’t have got promoted without her. Every player will say the same thing’ Laura Kaminski

围绕波特(Potter)的兴奋感因她与凯拉·沃尔什(Keira Walsh)之间日益增强的搭档关系而进一步升级。卡明斯基在水晶宫对波特的比赛方式所做的改变之一,就是将她从一名全能中场(box-to-box midfielder)转变为更多地扮演 No 6. 角色。虽然她在单后腰(single pivot)位置上表现出色,但在与沃尔什组成双后腰(double pivot)时,她才真正赢得了赞誉。 很难想象世界足坛还有比这更好的年轻中场学习对象,但身披切尔西球…

[Full Time] Sky Bet League One | P | W | D | L | F | A | Gd | Pts | Plymouth | 9 | 5 | 1 | 3 | 16 | 11 | 5 | 16 | Bradford | 8 | 5 | 1 | 2 | 8 | 5 | 3 | 16 | Huddersfield | 8 | 4 | 3 | 1 | 14 | 7 | 7 | 15 | Sheff Wed | 7 | 4 | 2 | 1 | 13 | 6 | 7 | 14 | Stockport Cty | 8 | 4 | 1 | 3 | 17 | 10 | 7 | 13 | Cambridge Utd | 8 | 3 | 4 | 1 | 13 | 11 | 2 | 13 | Reading | 8 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 17 | 10 | 7 | 12 | Burton Albion | 9 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 14 | 15 | -1 | 12 | AFC Wimbledon | 8 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 6 | 8 | -2 | 12 | Oxford Utd | 6 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 13 | 7 | 6 | 11 | Leyton Orient | 8 | 3 | 1 | 4 | 13 | 11 | 2 | 10 | Wycombe | 8 | 2 | 4 | 2 | 13 | 16 | -3 | 10 | Stevenage | 7 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 11 | 8 | 3 | 9 | Leicester | 7 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 9 | 11 | -2 | 9 | Blackpool | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 13 | 13 | 0 | 8 | Luton | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 12 | 14 | -2 | 8 | Mansfield | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 10 | 13 | -3 | 8 | Barnsley | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 7 | 12 | -5 | 8 | Bromley | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 8 | 18 | -10 | 8 | Notts County | 7 | 1 | 4 | 2 | 7 | 9 | -2 | 7 | Doncaster | 7 | 1 | 3 | 3 | 8 | 9 | -1 | 6 | MK Dons | 7 | 0 | 6 | 1 | 8 | 10 | -2 | 6 | Peterborough | 8 | 1 | 2 | 5 | 4 | 13 | -9 | 5 | Wigan | 7 | 1 | 1 | 5 | 5 | 12 | -7 | 4 | Burton Albion | 1 | <td colspan="5">Huddersfield | 3 | Leyton Orient | 0 | <td colspan="5">Plymouth | 2 | Reading | 1 | <td colspan="5">Bradford | 1 |

< / td><>场次< / ><>胜< / ><>平< / ><>负< / ><>进球< / ><>失球< / ><>净胜< / ><>积分< / >< / tr><><>普利茅斯< / ><>9< / ><>5< / ><>1< / ><>3< / ><>16< / ><>11< / ><>5< / ><>16< / >< / ><><>布拉德福德< / ><>8< / ><>5< / ><>1< / ><>2< / ><>8< / ><>5< / >…

Sky Bet League Two | P | W | D | L | F | A | Gd | Pts | Salford City | 9 | 5 | 1 | 3 | 13 | 10 | 3 | 16 | Barnet | 7 | 4 | 3 | 0 | 17 | 10 | 7 | 15 | Crewe | 9 | 3 | 6 | 0 | 11 | 7 | 4 | 15 | Cheltenham | 9 | 4 | 3 | 2 | 16 | 14 | 2 | 15 | Bristol Rovers | 9 | 5 | 0 | 4 | 14 | 14 | 0 | 15 | York | 8 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 16 | 10 | 6 | 14 | Walsall | 8 | 3 | 5 | 0 | 11 | 5 | 6 | 14 | Chesterfield | 9 | 4 | 2 | 3 | 15 | 12 | 3 | 14 | Grimsby | 9 | 3 | 4 | 2 | 13 | 10 | 3 | 13 | Gillingham | 9 | 3 | 4 | 2 | 11 | 9 | 2 | 13 | Rochdale | 9 | 4 | 1 | 4 | 10 | 11 | -1 | 13 | Tranmere | 9 | 2 | 5 | 2 | 12 | 12 | 0 | 11 | Swindon | 9 | 3 | 2 | 4 | 9 | 13 | -4 | 11 | Shrewsbury | 9 | 3 | 2 | 4 | 9 | 14 | -5 | 11 | Newport County | 9 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 12 | 12 | 0 | 10 | Accrington | 9 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 13 | 14 | -1 | 10 | Rotherham | 9 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 11 | 12 | -1 | 10 | Fleetwood Town | 9 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 9 | 10 | -1 | 10 | Colchester | 8 | 2 | 4 | 2 | 10 | 12 | -2 | 10 | Exeter | 9 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | -1 | 9 | Oldham | 8 | 2 | 1 | 5 | 9 | 13 | -4 | 7 | Northampton | 7 | 1 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 6 | -3 | 6 | Port Vale | 7 | 1 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 9 | -6 | 5 | Crawley Town | 7 | 1 | 1 | 5 | 6 | 13 | -7 | 4 | Accrington | 2 | Cheltenham | 0 | Chesterfield | 4 | Tranmere | 2 | Crewe | 3 | Bristol Rovers | 1 | Exeter | 1 | Rotherham | 0 | Gillingham | 0 | Newport County | 0 | Grimsby | 1 | Shrewsbury | 2 | Rochdale | 1 | Swindon | 0 | Salford City | 1 | Fleetwood Town | 0 | FA WOMEN'S SUPER LEAGUE

< / td><>场次< / ><>胜< / ><>平< / ><>负< / ><>进球< / ><>失球< / ><>净胜球< / ><>积分< / >< / tr><><>索尔福德城< / ><>9< / ><>5< / ><>1< / ><>3< / ><>13< / ><>10< / ><>3< / ><>16< / >< / ><><>巴尼特< / ><>7< / ><>4< / ><>3< / ><>0< / ><>17< / ><>10< /…

赛车 1 min
MOTOR RACING

FIA 一级方程式巴林大奖赛(马来西亚,吉隆坡) – 排位赛:1 M 维斯塔潘 (荷) 红牛 1分 35.130秒,2 L 汉密尔顿 (英) 法拉利 35.428, 3 I 哈贾尔 (法) 红牛 35.558, 4 K 安东内利 (意) 梅赛德斯 GP 35.631, 5℃ 勒克莱尔 (摩) 法拉利 35.666, 6 L 诺里斯 (英) 迈凯伦 35.757, 7 O 皮亚斯特里 (澳) 迈凯伦 35.762, 8 G 拉塞尔 (英) 梅赛德斯 GP 3…

SKY BET CHAMPIONSHIP

布莱克本 v 卡迪夫, 博尔顿 v 斯托克,查尔顿 v 布里斯托尔城 (12.30), 德比 v 雷克瑟姆, 米德尔斯堡 v 伍尔弗汉普顿, 普雷斯顿北端 v 米尔沃尔, 谢菲尔德联 v 林肯城, 斯旺西 v 诺维奇 (12.30), 沃特福德 v 伯恩利, 西布罗姆 v 伯明翰 (12.30)。SKY BET 英甲联赛 布拉德福德 v 莱顿东方, 剑桥联 v 布莱克浦, 唐卡斯特 v 伯顿阿尔比恩, 哈德斯菲尔德 v 谢菲尔德星期三, 莱斯特 v 彼得堡…

SKY BET LEAGUE TWO

布里斯托尔流浪者 v 巴尼特, 切尔滕纳姆 v 索尔福德城, 克劳利镇 v 切斯特菲尔德, 弗利特伍德镇 v 沃尔索尔, 纽波特郡 v 考尔切斯特, 奥尔德姆 v 阿克灵顿斯坦利 (12.30), 普尔特韦尔 v 格里姆斯比, 罗瑟勒姆 v 吉林厄姆, 什鲁斯伯里 v 埃克塞特, 斯温登 v 克鲁 (12.30), 特兰米尔 v 罗奇代尔, 约克 v 诺森普顿。 WILLIAM HILL 苏超联赛 邓迪联 v 希伯尼安, 法尔基克 v 邓迪, 哈茨 v 圣…

RUGBY UNION

国际赛:新西兰 v 澳大利亚 (8.10) Gallagher 顶级联赛:诺森普顿 v 巴斯 (3.05), 萨拉森 v 布里斯托尔 (5.30) 联合橄榄球锦标赛:蓝色公牛 v 狮子 (12.30), 伦斯特 v 卡迪夫橄榄球 (7.45), 斯卡莱茨 v 贝内通特雷维索 (5.30), 风暴 v 鲨鱼 (3.00), 阿尔斯特 v 曼斯特 (5.30), 斑马 v 爱丁堡 (3.00) ## 10月11日,星期日

Classical

巴托克的《青胡子的城堡》和斯特拉文斯基的《俄狄浦斯王》这两部作品被结合在威尔士国家歌剧院的一场制作中,该剧将巡演至兰迪诺(Llandudno)、南安普顿、牛津和普利茅斯,直到 11 月 28 日。这是一次“生存与勇气的展示”。菲奥娜·马多克斯(Fiona Maddocks)

文学 1 min
Literature

曼彻斯特文学节部分活动的门票仍可购买,该活动将于 10 月 9 日至 25 日在全市各场地举行。亮点包括《观察者报》读书会与埃尔南·迪亚斯(Hernan Diaz)、德博拉·弗朗西斯-怀特(Deborah Frances-White)、李明金(Min Jin Lee)和扬·马特尔(Yann Martel)的对话。

‘It was always more to do with the people than the games’

亚历克斯·弗格森的新回忆录是用 21 场比赛串联起的一段人生故事。在一次罕见且广泛的访谈中,他向保罗·海沃德讲述了对家庭的热爱、艰苦奋斗的传承以及管理年轻球员的天赋如何成为他成功的关键。 亚历克斯·弗格森在书房里打完招呼后,做的第一件事就是指向他庞大的关于约翰·F·肯尼迪遇刺书籍收藏中的一件新藏品:大卫·塔尔博特的《魔鬼的棋盘》(The Devil's Chessboard)。弗格森直接切入了这个令他着迷的主题,自从 63 年前作为一名年轻足球运动员听说枪…

Continued from page 9

在戈文的一个公寓楼里,费格森的父母“睡在厨房的凹室床里”,因为两间卧室中的一间被租给了一个爱尔兰家庭。费格森和他的兄弟马丁睡在另一间房里。“那套公寓造就了我,是我培养内在自信和成功驱动力的场所,”他写道。 在他通过工具制造工学徒认证的证书上,所列出的技能同样适用于他打磨球员的天赋:“铣削、成形、槽切、车削以及各种形式的研磨”。 费格森一家正是乔治·奥威尔可能会将其定义为自豪的工人阶级:精明、加入工会且痴迷足球。费格森第一次观看曼联比赛是在1953年5月,当…

专辑 3 min
Albums

斯科特在演唱她最新专辑《To Whom This May Concern》(今年发行)中的歌曲《Be Great》时说道。她自豪地告诉我们,这次巡演共有 28 人参与。“这意味着 28 张机票,28 间酒店客房。”斯科特及其团队就像一个丰盈且慷慨的超级有机体,将信任寄托于人,而非技术替代品。 另一首近期的歌曲《Offadaback》向众多黑人人物致敬,正是因为有他们的铺路,斯科特才能在宽大的蓝色礼服中摇曳生姿,在跨越多个八度的音域中纵情歌唱。(背景幕布上描…

Nature's Pill Wishy (Winspear)

90 年代复兴风潮正盛,总部位于印第安纳波利斯的独立乐队 Wishy 对那个年代的音乐有着非常独特的见解。他们将甜美的垃圾摇滚(grunge)与梦幻流行(dream pop)相结合,模仿了 Velocity Girl 和 Wannadies 等乐队的跨界热门作品。出色的单曲《Sensational》包含了如此多那个时代的触点,以至于几乎像一部百科全书:一段来自 Rob Base 和 DJ EZ Rock 的《It Takes Two》的节拍;一段粗粝的 O…

贝斯手兼歌手 Meshell Ndegeocello 在其获得格莱美奖、受詹姆斯·鲍德温启发而创作的 2024 年专辑《No More Water》中,证明了自己是对深奥素材的娴熟诠释者。如今,她带着合唱专辑《Synonym》回归,尝试重新演绎从鲍勃·迪伦(Bob Dylan)到 Ja Rule 以及 Human League 等各路艺人的流行歌曲。Ndegeocello 的合作者名单令人印象深刻,包括查卡· خان(Chaka Khan)、利安·拉哈瓦斯…

After Sorolla Suzannah V Evans

你的背——像扇贝壳一样匀称,你的脊椎是一条线,一条在你弯腰将毛巾移过双腿时轻轻弯曲的径向沟槽——皮肤呈焦糖色。毛巾宛如被微风搅动的风帆——时而露出膝盖,时而露出大腿内侧,在沐浴后全部呈现出玫瑰色,且交织着你手指抚过之处留下的痕迹。头发——像一朵凌乱的海葵——脸颊——双颊都被热气染成了绯红色——耳朵——沙色,卷成褶皱——眼睛——像从海中舀出的两勺水——即便索罗亚为岩石所用的最纯净的紫色也无法描述其颜色—— 苏珊娜·V·埃文斯在布鲁姆斯伯里诗歌(Bloomsb…

Tell me more.

我不是音乐家,也没有音乐背景。起初我想:如果我想写这个,我需要知道如何弹钢琴。我去找了一位老师,起初她并不太感兴趣——她通常不接收成年学生。然后我用一份书籍提案进行了“试镜”。我说:“我要写这些人,这意味着我需要了解音乐。”她被打动了,于是接收了我。

How did you find learning a new skill as an adult?

当我告诉我的编辑时,她说:“天哪,你这是在用‘体验派’方法创作。”知道自己有些事情做得非常糟糕其实是一件好事。当然,我想弹得好,但我感觉压力很小,因为我知道我永远不可能像那些上课的孩子那样优秀。但了解约翰和佩谢雷特在开始时在做什么,比如练习音阶……对我来说,模仿他们在键盘上的动作很重要。我的老师给了我一首约翰·菲尔德的夜曲尝试练习,我的意思是,虽然我还不够熟练,但我已经在弹了。目前我在弹克莱门蒂(Clementi)和车尔尼(Czerny)。 由 Maria…

Killer by Godefridus | 18 | 17 | 17 | 19 | 7 | 21 | 24 | 28 | 6 | 9 | 16 | 14 | 9 | 15 | 25 | 7 | 26 | 15 | 9 | 21 | 18 | 7 | 25 | 13 | 19 | Normal Sudoku rules apply, except the numbers in the cells contained within grey lines add up to the figures in the corner. No number can be repeated within each shape formed by the grey lines.

18< / td><>17< / ><>17< / ><>< / ><>19< / ><>7< / ><>< / ><>21< / >< / tr><><>< / ><>< / ><>24< / ><>< / >< / ><><>< / ><>< / ><>28< / ><>6< / ><>< / ><>9< / ><>< / >< / ><><>< / ><>< / ><>16< / ><>14< / ><>< / >< / ><><>9< / ><><…

Diagram 2

29...f4? 推测是因为认为白方无法在 e5 处吃子。29...h6 是最好的机会,因为 30 Rxe5? 可以通过 Bxf3 来应对——现在这步棋可行,因为白方无法应对 31 Rg5。相反,30 b5 Ba8 极其复杂,尽管计算机确实更看好白方。 30 Rxe5! Rd2 如果 30...Bxf3? 31 Rg5! 或者 30...Rxf3 31 Re6 Qxe6 32 Rxe6 Rxf2 33 Kxf2,那么应该由兵来决定胜负。 31 R5e2 R…

Diagram 3

36 h4 gxh4+?! 完全可以下,但现在王进来了。36...Rb4 37 hxg5 Rdd4 显然需要仔细检查,但事实上,例如在 38 Kh4 Rxg4+ 39 Kh5 Kf7 40 g6+ Kf8 41 f6 Rh4+ 42 Kg5 Rhg4+ 43 Kf5 gxf6 之后,白方的王和黑方一样暴露,结果是平局。37 Kxh4 Rd3 38 Rfe3 Kf8 39 Kh5 a5 40 Re7 Rxb3? 决定性的错误,因为现在白方的王要么能够落在 g…

In diagram 1 after

25 h3 Bf5 如果 25...Bf1 26 Qe6 则立即将死,或者 25...g5 26 hxg4 gxh4 27 Qe6+ Kg6 28 Qf5+ Kf7 29 Qxh5 将死。26 Nxf5 gxf5 27 Qe6+ Kg6 28 g4! fxg4 29 hxg4 hxg4 30 Qxg4+ Kh6 致命的后退。31 Ba3! 制造了无法回答的 32 Bc1 将死威胁,因此黑方认输。 Sivanandan(执白) v Deborah Quick…

BBC Young Musician 2026

BBC Four, 7.30pm 在 12 岁赢得这项比赛近二十年后,长号演奏家彼得·摩尔(Peter Moore)与钢琴家乔安娜·麦格雷戈(Joanna MacGregor)以及指挥家本·格农(Ben Gernon)共同担任评委。在巴斯温泉大学举行的两场现场试镜的第一场中,三人组将选出一位代表打击乐、键盘、铜管和木管乐器的音乐家进入四分之一决赛,此外还将选出三名特邀选手。KR 大卫·班伯回忆... 《我的雷格之夜》 BBC Four, 10pm

Small Achievable Goals ITVX

这部关于不太像搭档的二人组朱莉(Julie)和克里斯(Kris)(创作者为詹妮弗·惠伦 Jennifer Whalen 和梅雷迪思·麦克尼尔 Meredith MacNeill)的加拿大喜剧第二季,讲述了两人通过他们受欢迎的播客应对中年危机的故事。随着新老板阿曼达(Amanda,塔玛拉·波登斯基 Tamara Podemski 饰)要求这对朋友在所有平台上都达到 No 1 并为每集播客拍摄视频,他们的共同崩溃在即。KR

The Paper

天空一台 (Sky One), 11pm & 11.30pm 天空一台 (Sky One), 11pm & 11.36pm 这部在地方报社中寻找急需幽默感的喜剧迎来了第二季大结局。萨布丽娜·因帕恰托雷(Sabrina Impacciatore)饰演的记者伪装成一名小学生(在她儿子的班级里)。多诺尔·格里森(Domhnall Gleeson)饰演的编辑在与发烧和 / 或心碎作斗争时宣布:“我不是在像对待前女友那样看着你。我是在像对待一名优秀的记者那样看着你。…

[Saturday | Pick of the Day] Forty Hits of 1976 at the BBC BBC Two, 8.40pm

1976 年可能是朋克爆发的一年,但并非在排行榜上,也不是在 。今晚,旧势力依然掌权,牢牢占据着主流地位:埃尔顿·约翰(Elton John)和基基·迪(Kiki Dee)(见下图)、克利夫·理查德(Cliff Richard)、多莉·帕顿(Dolly Parton)、人类兄弟会(Brotherhood of Man)以及一些追求流行完美的瑞典人。说到这个,接下来的节目是《ABBA在BBC》(ABBA at the ) (11.10pm)、《更多ABBA在…

Monday 5

6.0 早报 (T) 9.30 早晨直播 (T) 10.45 犯罪观察直播 (T) 11.30 房屋拍卖 (T) (R) 12.15 淘货猎人 (T) 1.0 新闻 (T) 天气 1.35 地区新闻 (T) 1.45 新闻 (T) 2.0 清洁修复 (T) (R) 2.30 节俭大转移 (T) (R) 3.0 逃往乡村 (T) 3.45 花园救援 (T) 4.30 谎言之桥 (T) 5.15 无用之题 (T) 6.0 新闻 (T) 天气 6.30 地区新闻…

Radio 3 1 min
[On the radio | Sunday] Radio 3

6.30am 早餐 9.0 周日早晨 12.0 私密激情 1.30 音乐地图 3.0 In Concert: Steve Reich at 90 4.30 In Concert: Steve Reich at 90 6.0 In Concert: Steve Reich at 90 8.30 周日专题:将要下雨 9.15 与汉娜·皮尔一起玩铜管乐队 10.15 夜间轨道 11.30 未分类 12.30 彻夜

Radio 3 1 min
[Friday] Radio 3

6.30am 早餐 (Breakfast) 9.30 经典精选 (Essential Classics) 1.0 古典现场 (Classical Live) 4.0 本周作曲家:威尼斯学派 (The Venetian School) 5.0 协调 (In Tune) 7.0 古典混音带 (Classical Mixtape) 7.30 周五音乐之夜 9.45 论文:走向晚祷 (Towards Evensong) 10.0 晚间接点 (Late Juncti…

Radio 4 2 min

6.0am 今日 (Today) 9.0 荒岛唱片 (Desert Island Discs) 10.0 女性时间 (Woman's Hour) 11.0 食品节目 (The Food Programme) 11.45 去还是不去 (To Go or Not to Go) 12.0 新闻 12.04 反社交 (AntiSocial) 1.0 世界 (The World) 1.45 转折点 (The Turning Point) 2.0 弓箭手 (The A…

Radio 4 2 min

6.0am 新闻与报纸 6.07 漫谈 (Ramblings) 6.30 本周今日农业 7.0 今日 (Today) 9.0 周六直播 (Saturday Live) 10.0 奇案 (Curious Cases) 10.30 吉他故事 (The Guitar Story) 11.0 激进 (Radical) 11.30 来自我们的通讯员 12.0 新闻 12.04 钱袋子 (Money Box) 12.30 新闻问答 (The News Quiz) 1.…

📑 🌏 亚洲与中国观察 (Asia & China) (17篇)

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大英博物馆韩国展门票 5 折 探索 2000 年的韩国创意 皇家艺术学院(RA)《绘制法国里维埃拉》门票买一送一 英格兰遗产委员会(English Heritage)年度会员 75 折

El Niño is already breaking records – weeks before it hits

Jeevan Vasagar 太平洋海面温度在上周创下新高,表明厄尔尼诺(El Niño)天气现象的强度正在增强,其初步影响已在世界范围内显现。 根据从 Niño 3.4 区域收集的初步数据,温度上升至比平均水平高出 3.23℃。该区域位于赤道太平洋,处于南美洲和澳大利亚之间,科学家利用该区域来划分厄尔尼诺事件的强度。 厄尔尼诺是一种自然气候事件,它将海洋中储存的热量释放到大气中,从而在世界各地引发干旱和风暴。由于温度纪录在北半球冬季该现象达到峰值强度前数…

Wagyu crisps? It's a high-steaks gamble for Japan's boeuf du jour

帕特里克·基德 (Patrick Kidd) 在销售高端薯片时,高端的形容词至关重要。因此,当 Co-op 为圣诞市场寻找零食时,简单的“牛肉”是不够的。今年的牛肉是和牛,这种昂贵的日本品种。或者是“熟和牛牛肉粉”,它是排在红椒粉和烟熏麦芽糊精之前的倒数第二个成分。你指望 £1.75 能买到什么? 在好的肉铺,一份和牛菲力牛排可能要花费你 £100,但这个品牌正以极低的价格进入主流市场。汉堡王销售的和牛汉堡售价为 £8.99。 这个品种直到 20 世纪 7…

AI's monster debt problem could cause another crash, warns Enron short seller

吉姆·查诺斯(Jim Chanos)正在押注那些被他称为“高杠杆数据中心房东”的公司将会下跌。他在接受巴尼·麦金泰尔(Barney Macintyre)采访时表示,关键参与者的“创意会计”手段是一个更令人担忧的问题。 这位曾因预言并从2001年能源贸易商安然公司(Enron)的崩溃中获利而闻名的做空者表示,用于构建AI基础设施的债务日益增加,到2028年可能会成为金融系统的系统性风险。 吉姆·查诺斯的公司曾押注特斯拉(Tesla)、Wirecard以及中国…

New car market keeps its foot on the gas

根据汽车制造商和贸易商协会(SMMT)的初步数据,英国新车市场继续强劲表现,9月份实现了连续第10个月的增长。本月新车注册量比去年同期增长了 $12\%$。Pantheon Macroeconomics 的经济学家 Robert Wood 和 Elliot Jordan-Doak 写道:“私家车注册量的再次强劲增长表明,消费者仍有足够的信心在能源价格冲击中继续消费”。纯电动汽车的市场份额达到了 $28.3\%$——表现强劲,但仍低于政府零排放车辆指令中规定…

Around the world | <td rowspan="2"> | <td colspan="2">Today | <td colspan="2">Monday | Low | High Weather | Low | High Weather | Amsterdam | 11 | 19 fair | 11 | 21 fair | Athens | 17 | 23 windy | 16 | 25 sunny | Auckland | 10 | 17 fair | 7 | 17 cloudy | Baghdad | 24 | 32 showers | 23 | 35 fair | Beijing | 13 | 21 fair | 8 | 25 sunny | Belgrade | 7 | 24 sunny | 6 | 24 sunny | Berlin | 10 | 20 cloudy | 8 | 21 cloudy | Brussels | 10 | 21 sunny | 9 | 21 fair | Budapest | 3 | 24 sunny | 3 | 24 sunny | Buenos Aires | 7 | 23 fair | 12 | 22 cloudy | Cairo | 20 | 29 haze | 20 | 29 fair | Cape Town | 12 | 28 cloudy | 14 | 25 sunny | Copenhagen | 11 | 16 fair | 11 | 18 fair | Dublin | 7 | 18 cloudy | 16 | 19 cloudy | Geneva | 13 | 23 showers | 11 | 23 fair | Gibraltar | 21 | 24 showers | 22 | 24 showers | Across

< / td>< colspan="2">今日< / >< colspan="2">周一< / >< / tr><><>最低< / ><>最高 天气< / ><>最低< / ><>最高 天气< / >< / ><><>阿姆斯特丹< / ><>11< / ><>19 晴< / ><>11< / ><>21 晴< / >< / ><><>雅典< / ><>17< / ><>23 有风< / ><>16< / ><>25 晴< / >< / ><><>奥克兰< …

PRIYA AHLUWALIA

这位英国时尚设计师兼创意总监于 2018. 年推出了一个以自己名字命名的服装品牌。她的服装探索了她印度和尼日利亚的双重血统,并被包括温米·莫萨库 (Wunmi Mosaku)、凯基·帕尔默 (Keke Palmer) 和艾米·卢·伍德 (Aimee Lou Wood) 在内的明星们穿着。 《Back Together》(由 Hardsoul 创作,Ron Carroll 助阵)的黑胶唱片。这首歌让我想起我的继父。当她把唱片给我时,我忍不住流下了眼泪。 你最…

[Currently Observing] The fresh extravagance of lace

蕾丝正在家居中被重新编织。设计师 Jane Wright 通过将手工针织与机器蕾丝相结合,颠覆了传统技法。她的网格织物中融入了未来主义大都市的轮廓,绝非怀旧之作。“蕾丝仍然承载着如此深厚的含义,”Wright 在谈到蕾丝在 17 世纪的复杂起源时说道,“它讲述了关于女性身份的故事,以及人们对这项高超工艺的共同认可。”在餐桌布置方面,陶瓷艺术家 Pollyanna Johnson 在黑色釉面上勾勒出液态黏土层,模仿该材质如蝉翼般的精致,并刻上挑战其家庭属性的…

‘I became spokesperson for British weightlifting without even asking’

力量训练普及率的增长表明,“艾米莉·坎贝尔效应”正处于全面爆发期。作者:杰西·帕克·汉弗莱斯(Jessy Parker Humphreys) 在 2020 年东京奥运会上,当艾米莉·坎贝尔(Emily Campbell)成为英国首位赢得奥运奖牌的女性举重运动员时,这次经历改变了她的人生。突然之间,坎贝尔成为了英国举重运动以及“强壮女性”的代表人物,被推向了聚光灯下。 在女性努力重新定义运动方式的时期,人们开始征询她从身体形象到运动装的所有看法。不难理解其中…

From banned to beloved: how skateboarding is shaping cities

波尔多采用了“滑板城市主义”来改变人们对如何使用公共空间的认知并鼓励社交互动——但这并非适合所有人 来自瑞典马尔默的滑板城市主义领军人物古斯塔夫·伊登(Gustav Eden)将滑板运动员比作舞池中的第一批舞者。如果他们站起来并以富有表现力的方式开始移动,其他人也会随之效仿。 东京大学的学者山崎贵宏(Takahiro Yamazaki)将其描述为一种“再野化”形式——将滑板运动员想象成海狸——通过引入一个特定物种,可以对整个生态系统产生巨大的影响。他说,滑…

MOTORCYCLING

MotoGP 日本大奖赛(日本,茂木) – 排位赛:MotoGP:1 J 马丁 (西) Aprilia 1分 42.371秒,2 M 马奎斯 (西) 杜卡迪 42.481, 3 P 阿科斯塔 (西) KTM 42.493, 4 M 贝兹特奇 (意) Aprilia 42.530, 5 A 马奎斯 (西) 杜卡迪 42.546, 6 F 迪·詹南托尼奥 (意) 杜卡迪 42.628, 7 E 巴斯蒂亚尼尼 (意) KTM 42.669, 8 R 费尔南德斯 …

This guy stopped me and said that if I was Jack Badger he'd do anything to work for us, even sweep up

“我一直把它称作一场面向全家娱乐的超现实艺术盛会,”他说,并补充道,这也是一次对 DIY 创造力的庆祝。“这关乎我们能用双手创造的奇迹,在 AI 时代,这意味着更多。” 几十年来,洛根(Logan)一直是另类艺术界最热情且人脉最广的人物之一。性手枪乐队(Sex Pistols)在 1976 年情人节期间,在他位于伦敦巴特勒码头(Butler's Wharf)的工作室举行了首场演出,那里随后成为了一个反主流文化中心,助力了朋克的发展并导致了 我最喜欢的时刻是…

电影 1 min
Film

“在罗弘辰(Na Hong-jin)这部马拉松式的韩国怪物电影中,有些时刻的大胆程度和执行之精妙,足以媲美你今年在电影院看到的任何作品。”《希望》(Hope)目前仍在全国电影院上映。温迪·艾德(Wendy Ide) ## 现正预订

You begin with Percherette learning of John's death, before taking us back in time. Why start there?

让读者知道约翰·菲尔德在哪里终结是很重要的。他几乎成功了——他是一个小有名气的人,但不像莫扎特、肖邦或贝多芬那样永恒。而她,当然,如今已无人知晓。我确信她的音乐已经全部失传。当你预知未来,而他们仍有一段人生路径需要走完时,这很有趣。这与现实生活不同:我们不知道自己的未来,必须通过生活去发现。但在这里,我知道结局,读者也知道结局。这对我们来说,从同一页开始很重要。 您的研究过程是怎样的?我阅读了大量关于音乐家、钢琴工业、音乐出版的资料……庞迪切里的历史又是另…

Damilola: The Untold Story BBC Two, 9pm

这部令人动容的纪录片讲述了达米洛拉·泰勒(Damilola Taylor)最后的24小时。这个快乐、无忧无虑的10岁孩子于2000年在伦敦东南部佩卡姆(Peckham)被谋杀。他的亲人以及最后见到他的人(包括朋友格蕾丝和约翰·博耶加)讲述了他们的绝望、随后的审判、青少年暴力事件的激增,以及泰勒留下的深远影响。KR 作为近年来备受好评的作品之一,这部细腻的剧情片提醒世人,印度拥有强大的艺术电影传统——而在这里,这种传统被重新演绎并产生了神奇的效果。帕亚尔·卡…

📑 🔬 科技、AI 与前沿科学 (Science & Tech) (27篇)

Celebrity Traitors bosses watched Grant's gaffe ‘with hands over our faces’

这位演员在首集中的失礼之举可能会让他在圆桌会议上付出沉重代价,但却让该剧的收视率飙升 斯蒂芬·阿姆斯特朗 (Stephen Armstrong) 据该剧的一位制作人透露,新一季《名人版叛徒》中心那个令人震惊的揭秘不仅让忠实观众感到意外,还让这部 BBC 热门剧集的创作者们惊恐不已。 “我们坐在控制室里,在远处看着,捂着脸在想:‘接下来会发生什么?’”执行制片人迈克·科顿 (Mike Cotton) 表示。

Forever without borders – thanks to your support

50 年多以来,无论人们身在何处,只要他们迫切需要,我们就为他们提供医疗护理。我们曾在地板上、走廊里以及头灯的照明下进行手术。我们曾在战区帮助母亲分娩,并抢救被卷入爆炸的人员。 因为我们不接受任何政府资助,只有像您这样的人士的慷慨捐助才帮助我们维持运转。这意味着我们能够保持独立、公正和中立,并能为任何需要的人提供护理。 通过在遗嘱中留下一份捐赠,您将帮助确保我们的团队能够始终迅速响应,毫不犹豫,且无国界。 1 in 5 的项目由遗嘱捐赠资助

'There's this undercurrent of politics in science. There's competition, and egos and power'

发现了一种激素,但并不清楚它的作用。另一位加拿大人约翰·杜普雷(John Dupre)建议这可能是传说中的肠促胰岛素(incretin hormone),在 20 世纪 70 年代,他们证明了 GIP 能刺激胰岛素的产生。 他们证明了身体在进食后如何告知你已经饱了。但随后又花了 40 年时间才研究出如何制造一种能实现相同效果的药物。不过当时仍存在一个缺口——GIP 无法完全解释身体产生的胰岛素数量。 到 20 世纪 80 年代初,技术已经取得了进步——特别…

How to dress this autumn

在过去的几年里,时尚界被一种类似于创意总监的“抢椅子游戏”所定义。Jonathan Anderson 从 Loewe 搬到了 Dior;Matthieu Blazy 从 Bottega Veneta 搬到了 Chanel。两周前,Glenn Martens 宣布辞去 Diesel 的首席设计师职务,以便专注于他的另一项工作——担任 Maison Margiela 的创意总监。这看起来就像时尚界又一次例行的轮转。然而……Martens 在 Diesel 实现…

UNIQLO

优衣库以实惠、剪裁良好的丹宁产品和 Heattech 保暖内衣而闻名,在时尚基础款和卓越的设计师合作系列中开辟了细分市场。在创意总监 Clare Waight Keller(曾就职于 Pringle、Chloé 和 Givenchy,并为梅根·马克尔设计了婚纱)的指导下,优衣库的时尚地位得到了提升。业内人士知道,Uniqlo:C(由 Waight Keller 设计)和 U:Uniqlo 系列是寻找时尚导向单品的去处。“关键在于让衣服感觉精致且经过深思熟虑…

Wakefield Trinity end 58-year wait for title with brilliant display over Wolves

韦克菲尔德三位一体队(Wakefield Trinity)在老特拉福德球场举行的总决赛中以 23-10 击败沃灵顿狼队(Warrington Wolves),成为第六支捧起超级联赛冠军奖杯的球队。 在曼彻斯特座无虚席的观众面前,三位一体队表现出极强的冲击力,加入了维冈、利兹、圣海伦斯、布拉德福德和赫尔金克罗(Hull KR)的行列。 三位一体队在进入决赛前,在半决赛中以惊人的表现击败了常规赛榜首的维冈队,而维冈队在上周六失利前正追求三冠王。 另一方面,沃灵…

Rough memories for Australia as Sandpapergate chafes again

吉迪恩·海格(Gideon Haigh)写道,自那场震惊澳大利亚板球界的作弊丑闻以来,球队首次在南非进行测试赛,这意味着必须重新面对那段不愉快且令人不安的过去。 相机:这就是史蒂夫·史密斯(Steve Smith)对八年前记忆中最深刻的东西。澳大利亚队那次灾难性的南非之旅让他陷入了声名狼藉的迷雾,并失去了队长之位,史密斯在很大程度上已经将这段记忆封锁在脑海中。但正如他在上个月的一次采访中所解释的,快门闪烁的迹象总能提醒他,在回到悉尼后,他面色苍白、泪流满面…

ON THE STAGE Miss Demeanour

在一个阴雨绵绵的周日晚上,在摄政公园露天剧场(Regent's Park Open Air Theatre),一只银色的鳄鱼正在一个铺满亮片和鲜花的舞台上大肆破坏。五名全身涂满人体彩绘的裸女也在如此破坏,她们正剪断自己的羊毛脐带;还有一名从头到脚覆盖着白色羽毛、浑身涂满人造原油的参赛者。 “另类世界小姐”(Alternative Miss World)选美大赛是由艺术家兼雕塑家安德鲁·洛根(Andrew Logan)于 1972 年创立的一项赛事。参赛者在…

Is there any area of human endeavour that leaves you cold?

我有点厌倦了目前每一次对话都围绕着 AI 展开。并不是说它不迷人或不会产生巨大影响,但我们能不能谈谈其他事情?我们能不能不谈特朗普? 很快就会有一部关于你最近巡演《Who Is the Sky?》的电影,由布雷迪·科贝(Brady Corbet,《野兽派》)执导。他使用了 70 毫米胶片拍摄。为什么?克里斯托弗·诺兰,小心了!许多数字相机和胶片试图模拟 35 毫米图像,而 35 毫米图像的大小大约像一张大邮票。而 70 毫米的每一帧都更大,几乎有信用卡那么…

What I'm reading

约翰·诺顿(John Naughton)的推荐 探讨在资源充裕的世界中,反对有目的的活动和亚伯拉罕宗教。布兰科·米拉诺维奇(Branko Milanovic)就凯恩斯的一篇著名论文撰写的一篇极佳文章。 AI:一场非常人性化的悲剧。特里·伊格尔顿(Terry Eagleton)关于 AI 的(风趣的)写作。 AI 启示录。历史学家尼尔·弗格森(Niall Ferguson)对 AI 危险性的看法。

And the rest... by Wendy Ide

《重量》(The Weight) (113 分钟, 15) 导演:帕德里克·麦金利 (Padraic McKinley);主演:伊桑·霍克 (Ethan Hawke)、罗素·克劳 (Russell Crowe)、朱莉娅·琼斯 (Julia Jones) 《重量》是一部充满力量的大萧条时代冒险片,氛围中弥漫着浓厚的粗粝感与尘垢。这是一个令人振奋的救赎故事,伊桑·霍克在片中展现了其一如既往且令人印象深刻的顶尖演技。他饰演的墨菲是一名鳏夫,对机械之事洞若观火,脸…

A mimmoth undertaking

娜奥米·奥尔德曼(Naomi Alderman)将虚构与回忆录巧妙结合,在个人丧亲之痛与发现奇妙新物种之间取得了平衡。作者:艾伦·皮尔森-哈格尔(Ellen Peirson-Hagger) 《陌生人》(The Strangers),娜奥米·奥尔德曼著,Fig Tree出版社,£20,288页 娜奥米·奥尔德曼的新书是一部想象力的杰作,且具有强烈的情感冲击力。本书部分为推测小说,部分为回忆录,讲述了一位名叫娜奥米·奥尔德曼的小说家在母亲去世后几个月里的经历。…

You previously said you are against the word "grief". How do you feel about it now?

我学到的一件事是,你永远不能说你处于某件事的终点,因为在那个终点之后总会有新的东西出现。在个人层面,当然,我们不再拥有孩子们了。从这个意义上说,这种情况永远不会改变,我也不会回避这个事实 [尽管] 有时人们在我身边会感到犹豫。悲恸将永远持续下去。但同时也有一个理性的思考方式:我们并没有被困在文森特去世的那一刻,也没有被困在詹姆斯去世的那一刻。我正在观察时间如何在我的生命中流逝,以及它如何以一种与大多数人不同的方式流逝。 李翊云的《音乐对抗黑夜》由 Four…

Cooking with the Stars ITV1, 7.30pm

《舞动奇迹》的艾玛·威利斯(Emma Willis)和汤姆·艾伦(Tom Allen)回归主持第六季,12 位明星在世界级厨师的指导下竞争冠军。现在节目被精简为 30 分钟的短篇幅,节奏快得惊人。演员卡罗琳·昆廷(Caroline Quentin)、马克·查诺克(Mark Charnock)和角斗士哈里·艾金斯-阿里耶蒂(Harry Aikines-Aryeetey)在第一集中正面交锋。预计会出现各种奖项和泪水。KR [...OMITTED...]

Play for Today: Closing Time 5, 9pm

一家烤肉店成为了米娜·巴格(Mina Barger)这部深思熟虑的爱情故事中出人意料的背景,探讨了成为英籍亚裔的含义以及移民经历。准律师新娘莱拉(Laila,埃洛拉·托基亚 饰)与厨师莫(Mo,安东尼奥·阿基尔 饰)之间的一次深夜邂逅引发了一场复杂的私情,使他们对可能实现的梦想和信念变得清晰可见。KR 《长腿》(Longlegs) (奥斯古德·珀金斯 导演, 2024) BBC Two, 10pm

BBC One 2 min
[Saturday 10] BBC One

白金汉宫:生活的一年,5, 8.35pm 本系列关于这座历史悠久的皇家住所的最后一集 6.0 Breakfast (T) 10.0 Saturday Kitchen Live (T) 11.30 Mary at 90: A Lifetime of Cooking (T) (R) 12.0 Bargain Hunt (T) (R) 12.45 The Football Interview (T) 1.0 News (T) 1.10 Weather (T) 1…

📑 🔥 社论与封面专题 (Leaders & Opinion) (26篇)

No 10's ‘theory of growth’ is set for a cautious reality check on budget day

将《观察者报》的最佳内容直接发送至您的收件箱 本·扎兰科 (Ben Zaranko) 安迪·伯纳姆因敢于面对政治家们长期以来一直回避的问题而理所应当地赢得了赞誉。 无论是修复英格兰社会护理系统的不公平,还是消除国家养老金“三重锁定”机制中最糟糕的特征,他计划解决那些他本可以轻易忽略的问题。

Cornell gang rape accuser ‘under siege’ online as fresh culture war divides US

埃德·赫尔莫尔(Ed Helmore)写道,在保守派人士支持、学生谴责被指控袭击的七名男子的同时,数字侦探们正试图揭露其所谓的受害者的身份。 纽约康奈尔大学一名女学生被指遭七名兄弟会成员强奸的事件,再次撕开了美国的文化战争分歧,并重新引发了关于同意、网络审判和受害者有罪论的辩论。 一名20岁女性被指遭受长达数小时的袭击,而袭击者在社交媒体上吹嘘,并召集兄弟会成员加入。这一指控已走出常春藤盟校校园,登上了国际舞台。在美国,保守派评论员迅速站出来为被告辩护。 …

Letters

在过去的 30 年里,AI 一直在进入我们的生活,而它其实是“编码化人类智能”(CHI)的一个误称:即将人类的知识、规则和决策过程编码进软件中。这并非 AI 的传统定义,但它提供了一种有用的方式,让我们理解早期软件与如今更复杂的 系统之间的连续性。 改变的是规模。在全球范围内应用 CHI 是一个全新的领域,它不能几乎完全掌握在美国、中国或其他地方的少数几家大公司手中。 对整个互联网上的 进行监管根本是不可能的。暴君和独裁者已经在利用 赋能的系统进行监视,这…

Ham tomorrow

哈尼夫·库雷希(Hanif Kureishi)回忆起在西西里岛的一顿饭,食材中使用了“特易购顶级凝脂奶油(Tesco’s Finest clotted cream),这简直荒唐,伊莎贝拉 [他的妻子] 竟然把它放在随身行李中从伦敦带过来”(上周,《新评论》,“西西里,或我如何学会停止担忧并享受午餐”)。在我看来这并不荒唐:我妻子和我曾经在从伦敦到意大利的火车旅程中打包了一些威特罗斯(Waitrose)帕尔马火腿——并且在经过帕尔马时吃掉了它。 莫里斯·韦特…

For the record

- 在上周的“噢,真的吗?”问答中(杂志,第 46 页),第三题询问读者:“哪种 3D 形状只有一个表面?”一个正确答案是“实心球体”,但实际上有无数种只有一个表面的 3D 形状,因此会有多种不同的答案。 - 在一篇社论中(9月 20 日,第 3 页,“更加谨慎”),我们提到关于有护理经历人员生活前景的研究是由纳菲尔德信托(Nuffield Trust)开展的。实际上,这些研究结果是纳菲尔德基金会(Nuffield Foundation)的工作,这是一个独…

His final novel was praised for its flamboyant use of filthy 18th-century slang

(伊恩·麦克尤恩是接下来的两位获奖者)且贝丝当时正怀孕。他们的女儿罗莎是一名政治记者。贝丝与他于 1981 年离婚,他于 1987 年与电视制片人琳达·罗马诺结婚。 这本书的成功鼓励他尝试剧本创作。他为 BBC 改编了《Play Things》,由弗里尔斯执导,乔纳森·普赖斯和奈杰尔·霍桑主演。他还与弗里尔斯合作拍摄了电视剧《Early Struggles》和《Last Summer》,后者是一部关于偷车贼的戏剧,由理查德·贝金塞利主演,一名评论员称其为“…

Claudia Winkleman

《叛徒》主持人称自己“太笨”而无法成为参赛者。莉莉·艾萨克斯 (Lily Isaacs) 写道,她的朋友们对此并不认同。 随着新一季《名人版叛徒》(The Celebrity Traitors) 在全国屏幕上回归,“克劳迪娅·温克尔曼”声称自己永远无法参与这个节目。“我太笨了……我只是在实话实说,”她说,“我在这方面会表现得太糟糕。” 据了解她的人称,这种谦逊对于这位拥有电视圈最著名刘海的女性来说是典型的。 “克劳迪娅非常聪明,”她的好友、前《荒岛唱片》(…

RESTAURANTS TANYA GOLD

Dante,位于伦敦 W1 布鲁克街的 Claridge's 酒店内 (020 7629 8860, maybourne.com / claridges)。前菜 £19-£29,主菜 £24-£70,甜点 £9-16,葡萄酒每杯 / 每瓶 £14 / £50 起。 那些冰指饼非常美味,每个售价 £4。既然如今花 £10 只能买到一个糟糕的三明治,这个价格似乎很公道。而且这里还包含了一份戏剧感,而这在 Pret 餐厅里是找不到的。 Claridge's 天生…

Zero tolerance

我对很多事情都不太迷信。星座很有趣,但仅限于把它们当成性格测试。鬼魂很酷,但我不会在我搬进的每套公寓里都用鼠尾草熏香。而且我相当坦然地持有不可知论,这样如果在我有生之年证明了更高存在之物的存在,无论结果如何我都能够应对。(我讨厌出错。) 然而,在过去的两个月里被疾病击垮,感觉就像是被某种更高力量的惩罚。在过去五年里,我几乎每天晚上至少喝一杯酒,而主宰我的力量决定,为了我的肝脏 / 大脑 / 能量水平,最好让我彻底冷静一段时间。我知道这不健康,而当我最终计算…

IN THE NEW REVIEW

“人们真的认为我仅靠对着别人大吼大叫就能赢得所有那些奖杯吗?”亚历克斯·弗格森爵士(Sir Alex Ferguson)问道。在接受保罗·海沃德(Paul Hayward)采访时,这位传奇教练分享了他激励年轻球员的天赋秘诀以及他对未来的担忧。

Enzo Maresca Manager 2026-

于今年6月接替瓜迪奥拉,并表示他对英超联赛的指控没有任何担忧。这是他第三次在俱乐部任职,此前他曾在2020–21, 赛季执教精英发展小队一个赛季,并担任过一个赛季的瓜迪奥拉助教。 米克尔·阿尔特塔 教练 2016-19 曾任曼彻斯特城的助理教练,现任阿森纳主教练。阿尔特塔此前表示,他在曼城工作期间没有看到任何潜在违规行为的证据。他尚未对英超联赛的裁决发表评论。

Man City player agents left in limbo after summer splurge

罗布·德雷珀(Rob Draper)写道,如果制裁力度很大,俱乐部的一些顶级球星注定会离队 这个周末,埃利奥特·安德森(Elliot Anderson)、恩佐·费尔南德斯(Enzo Fernández)、阿尤布·布阿迪(Ayyoub Bouaddi)和伊利曼·恩迪亚耶(Illiman Ndiaye)在想什么——或者更具体地说,他们的经纪人在想什么。上周,ESPN 报道称,曼彻斯特城(曼城)在 7 月份被告知其英超联赛指控成立,而当时他们正准备为打破纪录的转…

Critics 20-29

\- 卡迪什·莫里斯(Kadish Morris)对话先驱摄影师洛娜·辛普森(Lorna Simpson) - 苏珊娜·克拉普(Susannah Clapp)见证西蒙·罗素·比尔(Simon Russell Beale)在饰演利伯拉塞(Liberace)时大放异彩 - 劳拉·卡明(Laura Cumming)在皇家艺术学院欣赏里维埃拉 - 温迪·艾德(Wendy Ide)对汤姆·克鲁斯主演的电影《挖掘机》(Digger)感到失望

Features 8-19

- 封面故事:亚历克斯·弗格森的《我生命中的比赛》通过 21 场比赛回顾其职业生涯。他与保罗·海沃德探讨了生活、爱与足球 - 访谈:基利安·福克斯采访了雷迪·皮特,她与 Lankum 乐队及其新的个人专辑正引领着一场爱尔兰民谣复兴 - 随笔:肖恩·奥哈根论述感恩而死乐队及其技术先驱粉丝如何预见了我们的数字时代 - 约翰·诺顿论 Meta 的 Muse

Books 30-37

- 威廉·博伊德重读弗朗西斯·斯托诺·桑德斯的《谁为笛手付钱?》,这是一部揭露美国中央情报局干预行为的著作 - 瑞秋·西尔维斯特评论戈登·布朗的《未来始于我们》 - 萨拉·莫斯评路易丝·肯尼迪(《侵犯》作者)的《车站》 - 基蒂·帝国评论适合惊悚季节的儿童书籍

Contributors

保罗·海沃德(p8)是《观察者报》的获奖体育作家。他曾与亚历克斯·弗格森、鲍比·罗布森和凯文·辛菲尔德合著书籍。 卡迪什·莫里斯 (p20) 是一位评论家、编辑、诗人,也是《观察者报》的常驻撰稿人。她在 2020 年获得了埃里克·格雷戈里诗歌奖。 萨拉·莫斯 (p34) 居住在都柏林,在那里教授创意写作。她近期的著作包括回忆录《我的善良明亮之狼》和小说《成熟》。 基利安·福克斯 (p12) 是一位获奖记者和编辑,为《观察者报》撰写关于艺术、美食、音乐、摄影…

Portrait by Donavon Smallwood

上方为在纽约工作室拍摄的 Lorna Simpson,下方为 2026's Vista。 拼贴画中,我用星空取代了皮肤。” Simpson 还以其震撼的大规模摄影与文字结合作品而闻名,这些作品探讨了历史记忆、公众形象、个人身份与集体创伤之间的关系。相同的基调反复出现,其中头发是最主导的元素之一。尽管如此,她在处理像假发这样简单的物品时展现出一种动态特质,将其转化为对欧洲审美标准政治性的坚定评论。在作品《Wigs II》(1994–2006)中,50 多个图…

[Monday] Pick of the Day

Channel 4, 9pm 大卫·哈伍德(David Harewood)在谈到他第一个电视主演角色时评论道:“这就是我整个职业生涯一直在等待扮演的角色。”在罗伊·威廉姆斯(Roy Williams)和约翰·多内利(John Donnelly)这部精彩的法律剧中,开场五分钟你就能明白原因。值班律师皮埃尔·杰弗里斯(Pierre Jeffreys)是个正直的人:幽默、勤奋且原则坚定。代表弱势群体是他的生存意义,因此一名年轻黑人客户在可疑情况下死亡给皮埃尔带来…

Film The Day of the Jackal

(弗雷德·津内曼导演, 1973) Legend Xtra, 晚上9点 弗雷德里克·福赛斯(Frederick Forsyth)1971年的畅销书灵感源自一次真实的刺杀法国总统夏尔·戴高乐的企图。好莱坞资深导演弗雷德·津内曼(《正午》、《到永远》)将其打造成为一部备受赞誉的商业大片。爱德华·福克斯(Edward Fox)饰演被称为“豺狼”的刺客,而法国艺术电影的中坚力量、邦德反派米歇尔·隆斯代尔(Michel Lonsdale)则饰演追踪他的警司。另一位欧…

Radio 3 1 min
[Saturday] Radio 3

6.30am 早餐 (Breakfast) 9.0 周六早晨 12.0 早期...与 Jools Holland 1.0 关键变化:Radio 3 古典音乐核心史 2.0 唱片评论 (Record Review) 4.0 电影之声 (Sound of Cinema) 5.0 古典生活 (This Classical Life) 6.0 Radio 3 歌剧 9.30 音乐星球 (Music Planet) 10.30 新音乐秀 (New Music Sho…

📑 💼 商业、企业与产业动态 (Business & Industry) (17篇)

HENRY GRAY HAS WORKED FORMSF IN NUMEROUS CRISES AROUND THE WORLD.

“我在无国界医生组织断断续续工作了二十年,但我依然记得我参与的第一个项目。当时我们正在刚果民主共和国的一片森林中建立一家医院。该地区曾发生过大量战斗,尽管冲突已经平息,但战争留下的痕迹依然清晰可见。周边地区约有 125,000 人居住,但没有任何服务,甚至连基本的医疗护理都无法获得。女性在需要时无法进行剖腹产;没有药物,没有疫苗,也没有疾病治疗。情况非常绝望,于是无国界医生组织派我们去建立并运行一家应急医院。 从一开始,我们的目标就是提供医疗护理并挽救生命…

Prepare your finances for the year ahead

现金储蓄在帮助人们获得更强的财务安全感方面发挥着重要作用。在现金储蓄账户中留有资金可以帮助你应对意外的账单或支出,例如锅炉损坏、汽车维修,或者当你发现自己失业时。 但你对省下的这些钱有长期计划吗?也许是为了给自己提供退休保障,或者是为了在孩子们成长过程中给予他们帮助? 投资可以通过让你的资金实现长期增长来帮助你达成这些目标。即使每月只存入少量资金,随着时间的推移,也可能成长为一笔可观的养老金。储蓄和投资并不需要是“二选一”的关系。

Decide the next step that's right for you

如果您仍然觉得投资很陌生,无需立即做出决定。在建立起应急基金后,您的第一步可能仅仅是进一步了解投资与储蓄有何不同,以及投资是否适合您自己的生活目标。 “为未来投资”(Invest for the Future)是一项由 20 家领先的银行和投资公司共同发起的倡议,旨在为那些有储蓄习惯但目前尚未投资的人群提供信息。其目标是让投资变得更容易理解,并帮助人们探索投资是否可以在其长期财务规划中占据一席之地。 威金斯(Wiggins)简单地将其表述为:“这次活动并不…

周六 1 min
Saturday

Bateleur 在法语中是“街头表演者”的意思。我们因此得名,是因为我们的求偶翻滚表演: 空翻、桶滚,总是极具震撼的时刻。在其他日子里,当我们展开双翼,翼尖上翘,在天空中漫步,偶尔出现瞬间被修正的摇晃时,我们看起来更像走钢丝的人。我们科学名称的第一部分是 Terathopius:在希腊语中意为“奇妙的面孔”。谦虚地说,我不得不承认他们说对了。我们确实是奇迹。空气就是我的沙发。 寿命 大约 25 年 饮食习惯 在我们之下生存与死亡的生物

Singularity or circularity?

AI 贸易核心公司之间错综复杂的互惠交易引发了关于“循环”融资和“供应商”融资的指责——即卖家直接向其产品的买家提供贷款。 Anthropic 与 SpaceX 之间表现出一种共生关系。它通过向 Cursor 提供编程服务产生了一部分收入(Cursor 是一款由埃隆·马斯克公司拥有的 AI 驱动代码编辑器),而其最大的单项运营成本是每月 12.5亿美元 的交易,用于访问 SpaceX 位于田纳西州的 Colossus 1 数据中心。 上周泄露的 Anthr…

A shadow economy?

查诺斯将这些称为“类安然(Enron-like)结构”,并举例提到一项 280亿美元 的交易,用于资助位于路易斯安那州的 2GW Hyperion 数据中心。Meta 和私募信贷公司 Blue Owl 成立了一家独立公司来拥有该中心并借款。Meta 承诺支付租金并弥补任何资金缺口。 Anthropic 和 OpenAI 已成为如此巨大的烧钱炉,以至于它们的资助者——谷歌、亚马逊、Meta 和甲骨文(Oracle)——所公布的回报率在下降。而且,他们正在寻找…

The bag holders

如果 AI 能证明其盈利能力,这一切都将无关紧要。但经济学家汉诺·卢斯蒂格(Hanno Lustig)的一项估算表明,数据中心的总收入需要以每年大约 45% 的速度增长七年,才能跟上支出。如果这种情况没有发生,超大规模云计算厂商可能会在一定程度上获得保护。“如果 OpenAI 作为一家公司没有成功,而英伟达(Nvidia)最终拥有了那些数据中心,它可以直接将其提供给另一家模型公司,”卢里亚解释道。 然而,英伟达显然在为所有可能性做准备。该公司在过去一个月中…

Sales boost for Greggs but job cuts loom

Greggs 报告称,2026, 年第三季度总销售额增长了 7.7%,同店销售额增长了 3.4%。该公司将 8 月和 9 月交易条件的改善归功于更好的天气,并表示包括新款抹茶和樱桃柠檬味在内的冰饮深受顾客喜爱。但对于 Greggs 的员工来说,消息则不那么乐观:该连锁店已宣布计划重组其制造业务,预计将导致 740 个工作岗位流失以及多个场地的关闭。这家烘焙店的首席执行官罗伊辛·库里(Roisin Currie)警告称,市场状况“具有挑战性”,且油价上涨将传…

Nvidia chips in to tune of \$150bn

为什么全球市值最高的公司要拨出 1500亿美元 来回购自己的股票——这将是史上规模最大的股票回购? 当内部人士意识到市场低估了其公司价值时,股票回购才最具意义。但英伟达的股价在过去一年上涨了约四分之一,很难说现在是低价。 首席执行官黄仁勋表示,英伟达表现如此之好,以至于它可以投入前所未有的资金来扩大业务(估计为 1300亿美元),同时还能进行某种新型融资,让这家“AI 中央银行”将大量盈余资金返还给股东。 对回购的一种批评是,高管利用回购在没有提升业绩的情…

JOHN LEWIS

约翰刘易斯以其“绝不故意低价销售”的格言而闻名,一直在稳步扩大其男装产品线,在自有品牌 Kin、John Lewis 和 Anyday 之外,引入了一系列前卫的独立品牌。秋季新品包括 APC、No Problemo 和 Labrum,并提供来自 Denham、Gant 和 Barbour 的独家单品。正装是约翰刘易斯的擅长领域,其自有品牌西装的销售额比去年增长了 169%。畅销产品包括一套 100% 羊毛细条纹西装。10月6日将推出与 Clothsurge…

0, really?

是轻而易举,还是认输道歉?我们的每周测验将测试您在文化、风格、历史、科学以及更多方面的知识。由 ITV《追逐》(The Chase)节目出题人 Lydia Heaton 提供 哪家足球俱乐部在首次以“星期三足球俱乐部”(Wednesday Football Club)之名出现约 3,236 个星期三后,采用了目前的名称? 举报人 Sarah Wynn-Williams 曾在哪家公司工作(该公司现已更名为 Meta)?在今年海节(Hay Festival)的…

3. Anfield, Liverpool

虽然由于一日游游客和企业客户的涌入,这里的氛围受到了一定影响,但它依然是我们这项运动中最伟大的圣殿。俯视那片球场,想到那里发生过的一切,使其成为了一个充满魔力的地方。 4. 希尔-迪金森体育场,埃弗顿 在我的最爱新建筑名单中,我会把它排在托特纳姆热刺体育场之上。它具有真正的个性,且坐落在默西河口岸,景色绝美。 5. 圣詹姆斯公园,埃克塞特

[John Naughton] Can you trust Meta's personal assistant to run your life?

自从 2022 年 11 月 ChatGPT 出现以来,科技行业就很清楚,AI 的未来并非是人们 与聊天机器人进行无休止的对话。其核心原因在于,对于公司而言,与大语言模型(LLMs)对话是一场亏本的噩梦,因为每一次交互都需要大量昂贵的计算资源。因此,对于像麦肯锡(McKinsey)这样的机构来说,AI 盈利的未来在于“智能体”(agents)——能够代表你采取行动的自主 AI。你给它们分配任务,允许它们访问所需的任何资源,然后让它们自行处理。 去年 11 …

📑 📈 金融市场与宏观经济 (Finance & Markets) (10篇)

Did he really score higher in psychology than economics?

他在第一次世界大战前参加了公务员考试,由于经济学成绩不佳,而包括心理学在内的其他科目成绩很高,这使他没能获得第一名。他开玩笑说,他的考官们对经济学的了解一定比他少。 格雷厄姆将他描绘成一个在公共厕所诱导水手、并与作家利顿·斯特雷奇(Lytton Strachey)和艺术家邓肯·格兰特(Duncan Grant)有染的同性恋者。事实真是这样吗? 凯恩斯在剑桥大学本科期间以及第一次世界大战期间和战后,与许多男性保持过关系,其中包括斯特雷奇和格兰特,两人都是布鲁…

At the end of the play, Graham seems to be saying that there is an inevitability that we will return to a Keynesian model. Is that true now in Burnham's government?

我希望如此。无论是“资本主义的私有化”和债券市场的权力,第四次工业革命的展开以及创建新“创新经济”的需求,还是气候变化的挑战或缓解严重的极不平等,我们都需要凯恩斯精神。 在未来的几十年里,资本主义无法自行找到通往最佳结果的道路。正如该剧所主张的,它需要公共行动而非惯性。

Equity loans for first-time buyers set to underpin new-build market

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Special report Manchester City

贾西姆曾是一家上市银行——卡塔尔伊斯兰银行的董事长,他是卡塔尔前总理之子,也是现任埃米尔的兄弟。 贾西姆的代表一直否认他是卡塔尔国家出价的“温和面孔”,但人权组织 FairSquare 在致欧足联和英超联赛的信中写道,“对卡塔尔政治和经济体系的基本研究充分证明,任何卡塔尔财团都不可能证明自己独立于国家影响之外”。贾西姆的竞标方案中包含一份由卡塔尔国家银行首席执行官签署的银行担保,而该银行的一半股份由卡塔尔政府通过其主权财富基金持有。 那么,仅仅因为一个最终…

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曼彻斯特,将“公共财富转移到私人手中”。 市议会一直否认这种定性,本周告诉《卫报》,这一说法已被多次“揭穿”,并选择将重点不仅放在开发项目带来的税收收入上,还放在这些项目对这座城市一个被遗忘区域所产生的影响上。 伯纳姆本周呼应了这一立场,他赞扬了俱乐部所有者在建设现代曼彻斯特中所发挥的作用。在某个时刻——在新闻办公室匆忙做出澄清之前——这位首相似乎几乎引用了长期悬挂在伊蒂哈德球场一个看台上的横幅:“曼彻斯特感谢您,曼苏尔谢赫。” 在这些开发项目周围走走,人…

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综合要闻 1

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观察者报

📄 外文原文 ↗

创刊于 1791 年

安迪·伯纳姆的愿景

脱欧后的

回归之路

“没有人预料到这一点。”

首相在欧洲问题上如何令其最亲近的同事感到震惊

作者:Rachel Sylvester

另见《观察者报》观点:“他对欧洲的开放态度具有成为历史性转折的潜力”

#1

📄 外文原文 ↗

我们是英国最佳的客户服务品牌。

安迪·伯纳姆关于脱欧和欧洲的演讲可能具有历史意义,这提供了一个在2016年被错失的、为加入欧盟提供积极论据的机会

📄 外文原文 ↗

希望在空中弥漫,因为终于有一位首相在脱欧问题上表现出了诚实

多年来,绝大多数英国选民一直认为脱欧是一个错误。终于,政治开始跟上步伐了。

无论安迪·伯纳姆是否能找到资金并投入政治资本将他的想法转化为行动,他上周在工党内部的演讲都将被铭记为在社会护理和选举制度改革方面的大胆之举。但他在脱欧问题上的诚实以及对欧洲的开放态度具有真正成为历史的潜力,原因有三。

首先,他表明自己并非“红墙”的囚徒;与基尔·斯塔默不同,他不准备在恐惧工党脱欧选民反叛的情况下执政。他承诺在11月的欧盟-英国峰会之前,就与欧洲建立新关系提供多种方案,这是在抹除斯塔默关于禁止重新加入欧盟单一市场或关税同盟之“红线”方面迈出的关键第一步。他次日确认这些方案可能包括“走到底”,这并非含糊其辞或偶然之举。这是一个计划的一部分,旨在表明他不仅在思考此前不可想象的事情,而且在为最有利于国家的事情做准备。

其次,欧洲领导人们看穿了这一举措的本质并表示欢迎。法国的埃马纽埃尔·马克龙称其为“极好的消息”。佩德罗·桑切斯表示,西班牙将“张开双臂”欢迎英国回归。欧盟委员会的一位发言人表示,“对(英国)可能提出的方案持开放参与态度”。

第三,预算责任办公室一致预测,与任何中间步骤相比,完全重新加入将为英国带来显著更高的GDP增长。正如马克龙和桑切斯所表现出的那样,寻求重新加入更有可能吸引欧盟各国政府首脑的关注。而像斯塔默所寻求的那种渐进式重启,在欧盟委员会的待办事项清单中处于最底层,且无论如何都会让英国处于规则接受者的地位。

因此,这是一个为加入欧盟提供积极论据的机会,而这在2016年无论是大卫·卡梅伦还是杰里米·科尔宾都没有做到。这取决于利益和共同的优先事项:与5 亿人口进行无摩擦贸易的利益、更深层的粮食和能源安全、有针对性的城市发展援助,为学生和科学家(更不用说音乐家)提供的新前景,以及在英国之外的27个国家生活和工作的自由。至于共同的优先事项,欧洲从第二次世界大战中继承的遗产是一个良好的开端,它由和平、民主、自由市场和法治组成。

理智的人会反对说,2026年的欧盟过于热衷于监管,并且过于愿意忍受低个位数的增长,而美国和东亚则骑上AI战马,将旧世界远远甩在身后。欧盟显然有缺陷,且一直是一个在完善中的作品。重新加入必须是一项务实任务,而非意识形态任务。现在,正如在2016年一样,论据应该是加入一个经过改革的集团,该集团搁置“日益紧密的联盟”,加速创建金融服务单一市场,并执行马里奥·德拉吉2024年竞争力议程的所有内容。这将加快英国追回因脱离而每年损失的1000亿英镑的速度,同时也会让欧盟变得更富有、更强大且更自信。

十年是很长一段时间。怀疑论者可能会说,过去十年欧洲极右翼的崛起使得重新加入欧盟变得不再那么诱人。但如果他们将目光投向欧洲地平线之外,就应该将此视为重新加入的理由,而非留在门外的理由。改革英国党(Reform UK)、恢复党(Restore)、德国选择党(AfD)以及法国的国民联盟党(National Rally)与特朗普主义和普京主义如出一辙。欧盟是抵御这些势力赖以生存的恶意和虚假信息的全球最佳防线。欧盟需要且值得英国的支持,正如英国将从成员身份中获益一样。

十年时间也足以让选民结构发生变化,足以让一个国家改变主意。自2016年以来,去世的脱欧派人数几乎是留欧派的两倍,而在新获得投票权的选民中,主张重新加入者与脱欧派的比例高达五比一。

事实上,在斯塔默进入唐宁街10号之前,英国就已经改变了对脱欧的想法,但他无法让自己承认这一点或采取行动。脱欧的失败是唐宁街里的一头大象。伯纳姆通过揭露这头大象并宣告斯塔默的渐进主义时代结束,为国家提供了巨大的服务。现在他必须贯彻到底,按照承诺列出所有选项,并清晰地表明哪一个对英国最有利。那就是重新加入。

克里斯塔·派克的教训

📄 外文原文 ↗

面对死刑执行失败这种令人惊悚的场面,其实有一个解决方案。

那就是停止执行死刑。

被定罪的谋杀犯克里斯塔·派克(Christa Pike)在经历了两次本应致命的戊巴比妥钠注射后,昨日虽仍存活但处于危急状态。此前,美国最高法院已批准让她成为田纳西州 200 多年来首位被处决的女性。

死刑反对者将她的案例视为死刑野蛮性的进一步证据,事实也的确如此。派克的律师表示,执行团队在尝试寻找她手臂静脉时至少失败了七次,并对她的“基本医疗需求表现出蓄意的漠视”。美国监狱当局面临的部分问题在于,没有一家正规的制药公司愿意提供用于此目的的药物,且没有一名受过训练的医护人员能在不违反职业操守的情况下提供相关专业技术。但更大的问题是,他们正在实施一种根本不起作用的惩罚。根据非党派机构“死刑信息中心”(Death Penalty Information Center)的数据,年复一年,美国 27 个保留死刑的州的谋杀率高于那些不保留死刑的州。在死囚牢房中的每八个人中,就有一人被证明无罪。自最高法院于 1976 年恢复死刑以来,至少有三名无辜者被处决;而自 1982 年以来,至少有 51 起通过致命注射尝试执行的死刑出现了失误。

全州范围内的死刑暂停令正在增加,美国整体的执行人数在四分之一个世纪以来一直在稳步下降。但美国仍然是唯一一个允许检察官申请死刑的西方民主国家,这不应成为一种自豪感。

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从我们的文学编辑精选的 25 本优秀书籍中挑选。适用条款与条件。详情请参阅优惠页面。

此外,作为订阅者,您还可以享受文化俱乐部(Culture Club)提供的价值 800 多英镑的折扣。以下仅为部分示例:

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皇家艺术学院(RA)《绘制法国里维埃拉》门票买一送一

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随耳所闻

“我看《飞行事故调查》”

📄 外文原文 ↗

亚尼夫·哈永(Yaniv Hayun)曾协助将一架 FlyDubai 航班从灾难边缘救回,他讲述自己是如何知道采取什么措施来阻止飞机坠毁的

本周简讯

被指控谋杀维德科姆者又被指控针对法拉奇策划袭击

📄 外文原文 ↗

被指控谋杀安·维德科姆(Ann Widdecombe)的约书亚·克里(Joshua Kerry)于周五被指控策划针对奈杰尔·法拉奇(Nigel Farage)的恐怖行为。该指控涉及 2024 年 5 月至 2026 年 7 月期间涉嫌从事的恐怖活动。内政大臣沙巴娜·马哈茂德(Shabana Mahmood)表示:“不要让任何人产生误解:对任何政治人物的攻击都是对我们所有人的攻击。”克里于 7 月被指控谋杀维德科姆,后者曾任改革英国党(Reform UK)发言人。她于 7 月 9 日在德文郡的家中去世。克里预计将于周三出庭。

£112

巴黎东北部欧贝维利耶(Aubervilliers)的一条街道发生火灾,学生在抗议学校状况的示威活动中与警方发生冲突。政府表示,包括儿童在内的 400 多名抗议者被拘留。Tom Nicholson / Getty Images

梅根·马克尔(Meghan Markle)新款巧克力降临节日历的价格

绿党将就锡安主义动议进行投票

📄 外文原文 ↗

绿党成员今天将在布赖顿举行的党代会上,就极具争议的“锡安主义即种族主义”动议进行投票。如果该动议通过,将改变该党的官方政策。动议称,“锡安主义……将被视为任何其他形式的种族主义,且本动议将由反种族主义政策工作组在适当情况下并按照其常规惯例予以落实”。前国会议员卡罗琳·卢卡斯(Caroline Lucas)在《今日》(Today)节目中表示,她对该动议有“严重担忧”,且不会支持该动议。党魁扎克·波兰斯基(Zack Polanski)拒绝阐述其观点,但表示他正“呼吁进行一项修正案”,以明确该动议将不会被用于惩戒那些出入自认为支持锡安主义的犹太会堂的犹太成员。

提前释放的囚犯难以追踪

📄 外文原文 ↗

缓刑监督员警告称,他们可能难以追踪上周四从监狱释放的数百名囚犯,其中许多人将无处居住。为了缓解监狱过度拥挤,约 2,000 名罪犯将在下个月被释放,另有 3,000 人将在明年分阶段释放。司法部表示,正在启动最大规模的电子监控扩展——预计出狱的罪犯将被佩戴电子脚镣并接受监控。然而,一份新报告显示,仅有 55% 的 GPS 电子脚镣被及时安装。

政府取消仅由法官审理的审判计划

📄 外文原文 ↗

大法官亚历克斯·诺里斯(Alex Norris)宣布,关于部分刑事审判仅由一名法官审理的提案已被放弃,这意味着更严重的案件将由陪审团审理。但被告将失去选择其案件由陪审团还是

治安法官审理的权利。复杂的欺诈案件仍将由法官审理,治安法官的量刑权将得到提升,以试图解决超过 80,000 宗案件的积压问题。这些变更将在下周返回下议院的《法院与法庭法案》中做出。

法国学生抗议学校状况 数千名法国青少年在学校外抗议,

《观察者报》新闻矩阵 对教室拥挤、设施不卫生以及教师短缺表示愤怒。周五有 500 多所学校因年轻人走上街头而受到影响。总统埃马纽埃尔·马克龙表示,他能“理解抗议学生的焦虑和愤怒”,但“这些辩论或恐惧都不能成为暴力的理由”。由于工会呼吁成员参加 10 月 6 日的抗议活动,抗议规模预计将扩大,工会称“今天的学生……绝不能为紧缩政策买单”。

现在瘦,以后付:药店被警告强推减肥药

📄 外文原文 ↗

零售商否认在营销减肥药物和在线服务时违反了广告规则

乔恩·昂格德-托马斯 (Jon Ungoed-Thomas) 与 玛丽娜·圣 (Marine Saint)

尽管禁止对处方药本身进行广告宣传,但作为英国数十亿英镑肥胖治疗产业的一部分,新型减肥药的销售正通过“先买后付”信用、折扣价格和忠诚度积分进行推广。

由诺和诺德 (Novo Nordisk) 和礼来 (Eli Lilly) 生产的两款处方减肥药——Wegovy 和 Foundayo——已于今年早些时候获准使用。这些药物有望成为重磅药物,并引发了药店公司和减肥服务的营销热潮。

在英国,发布可能导致使用处方药的广告或促销材料是违法的。药品和医疗产品监管局 (MHRA) 在 6 月警告称,药物并非“普通消费品”,使用不当可能会产生严重的健康后果。

“许多促销活动在诱导需求,且似乎违反了法律”

📄 外文原文 ↗

《观察者报》对获批药物营销活动的分析发现,相关促销活动可能会导致新批准药丸的采用率增加。调查发现:

\- 高街药房 Superdrug 为想要购买 Wegovy 或 Foundayo 片剂的客户提供其健康美容卡(health and beautycard)的积分奖励。

\- Asda 的在线医生服务称,患者可以“开始使用” Wegovy 或 Foundayo,价格每月 £87.97 起。该服务还推广使用 PayPal Pay in 3 分期付款,允许分三期支付。

  • 在线药房 pharmacyonline.co.uk 在折扣码网站 Groupon 上提供处方药优惠。促销信息称:“Wegovy 药丸最高优惠 £90。仅剩 7 天。”

主要零售商表示,他们遵守所有相关法规,推广的是其体重咨询服务,而非处方药。活动人士呼吁采取更严厉的行动,禁止减肥药的促销活动。

詹姆斯·拉金(James Larkin),证据与价值中心

“其中许多促销活动很可能在诱导对处方药的需求,因此,似乎违反了法律,”来自证据与价值中心的詹姆斯·拉金表示。“这是监管的失效。”

违反《2012年人类药物条例》(Human Medicines Regulations 2012)中相关法规的行为属于刑事犯罪,可能面临无限额罚款以及最高两年的监禁。

引发投诉的最受关注的活动之一是数字健康平台 Voy 自 2026 年 7 月下旬以来在伦敦巴士以及 Facebook 上投放的广告,其标语为“等待结束”(the weight is over),并配有一颗药丸的图片。

该广告被认为是在推广处方减肥药,但免责声明中的小字表明,广告中的药丸含有葡甘露聚糖,这是一种非处方减肥补充剂。广告标准局(ASA)本周末确认,已对该广告启动正式调查,预计很快将做出裁决。

在线药房 Bolt Healthcare 以标语“Wegovy 药丸终于来了”推广减肥治疗。对于选择 Wegovy 或 Foundayo 片剂的订阅用户,它提供每月 £20 的优惠。该网站上推广的处方减肥药成本在每周约 £25 到 £28 之间。处方减肥注射剂的价格从 Wegovy 的每周约 £20 到 Mounjaro 的每周约 £38 不等。

在 2025 年和 2026 年,ASA 已维持了 27 项关于推广处方类肥胖药物的裁决,但迄今为止没有一项涉及 Wegovy 或 Foundayo 片剂。它维持了针对 pharmacyonline.co.uk、以 Voy 名义经营的 Medwell Ltd 以及 Bolt Healthcare 推广处方减肥药的投诉。

MHRA 在 2025 年和 2026 年针对 50 多家涉嫌违规推广处方减肥药的公司采取了行动,但通常促销内容在修改后未受到制裁。

总部位于爱丁堡的饮食失调专家露丝·米卡莱夫(Ruth Micallef)表示,她拒绝了与减肥药物相关的付费广告邀请。考虑到她一直在为饮食失调患者提供支持,她发现被邀请这件事令人“不安”。

她表示,片剂形式的处方减肥药营销是一个重大担忧。“这会使其变得更加容易获得,”她说。“我们已经看到患者长期注射这类药物,而且通常是从错误的渠道和错误的人那里获取的。”

尼克(Nic)是一位来自白金汉郡的 54 岁消费者权益倡导者,他正在使用注射类减肥药 Mounjaro,并要求不透露姓氏。他表示,他担心一些减肥促销活动暗示处方减肥药是某种“快速见效的奇迹疗法”。

这些药片目前仅凭私人处方提供,且可能需要一年或更长时间的用药承诺。“他们从未告诉你长期下来需要花多少钱,”他说,“我们不应该为了健康而背负债务。”

巴斯大学社会与政策科学系的读者彼得·奥齐兰斯基(Piotr Ozieranski)此前曾与研究同事一起向广告标准局(ASA)和药品和医疗产品监管局(MHRA)投诉在线药房的营销行为。

“法规一直被违背。令人震惊的是这种情况仍在发生。这是一个巨大的市场,对于其中一些公司来说,财务诱惑实在太难抵挡了,”他声称。

Superdrug 表示,其在线医生服务的促销活动会定期审查,以确保符合法规。该公司表示:“减肥服务能给患者带来真正的健康益处。我们认可对营销行为的担忧,并欢迎明确的监管。”

Voy 的首席医疗官埃里姆·乔德里(Earim Chaudry)博士表示,患者的决定是由临床医生引导的,促销活动的设计旨在符合广告标准。据公司消息人士称,在伦敦巴士上的广告经过了相应的伦敦交通局(TfL)广告审批流程。

Asda 表示,其会定期审查沟通内容。该公司表示,其在线医生服务由签约第三方运营,任何治疗仅在临床评估后开具处方。Asda 发言人表示,任何促销活动均与患者咨询相关。

Groupon 的一名发言人表示,一项 Wegovy 药片减免 £90 的促销活动已被删除。Bolt 和 pharmacyonline.co.uk 未回应置评请求。

PayPal 的一名发言人表示,“先买后付”是一种信用形式,客户应考虑如何承担还款。该发言人表示,这种信用是免息的,受英国金融行为监管局(FCA)监管,并能为管理购买成本(包括高价值项目,如必需药品)提供一种可负担的方式。

ASA 表示,涉及处方药的违规行为是重点领域,将采取广泛的执法行动。“数字医疗领域存在显著的创新,”一名发言人说,“然而,这不能成为广告商将商业利益置于公共安全之上的理由。”该局表示,大多数公司都遵守广告标准。

MHRA 医疗保健、质量与准入执行董事朱利安·比奇(Julian Beach)表示,该局“极其严肃”地对待药品广告问题。他说:“一旦广告商违反法规,我们将毫不犹豫地采取所有可用手段来保护公众。”

ON OTHER PAGES

减肥药之父:“我知道可能会出现糟糕的结果”

伯纳姆关于欧洲的震惊声明令其在威斯敏斯特的同事们措手不及

📄 外文原文 ↗

首相关于“我们可以走得更远”的断言让白厅陷入混乱,因为事实证明,除了最亲近的顾问外,所有人都对他向重新加入欧盟迈出的大胆第一步毫不知情。蕾切尔·西尔维斯特(Rachel Sylvester)报道

当安迪·伯纳姆在工党大会上表示“脱欧带来的害处多于好处”,并且英国与欧盟的长期关系所有选项都在讨论之列时,数月来一直致力于欧洲政策的公务员们震惊了。“没有人预料到这一点,”一名白厅消息人士表示,“官员们完全懵了。这与他们一直以来工作的内容相去甚远。”

“拥有更高的雄心令人兴奋,但他们还需要想清楚下一步该怎么做。他们进入了一个新世界。”

在这次改变政治格局的政策转向之前,内阁并未进行过讨论。首相亲自撰写了演讲稿,并决定在其中加入一项关于欧洲的重要声明。随后,他在接下来的采访中进一步强化了亲欧信息,确认英国可以“走得更远”并重新加入欧盟。据外交部内部人士透露,这“出自伯纳姆本人”。

工党领导人身边的人仍在试图思考其后果。“这可能会产生深远影响,”一名内阁部长表示,“我们需要明确与欧洲的长期关系。此前一直像螃蟹一样横行(犹豫不前),而自2016年以来,由于乌克兰战争和唐纳德·特朗普,情况已经发生了变化。但仍有许多问题没有答案。我并不真正清楚最终的目的地在哪里。”另一位部长则认为,在一个日益不稳定的世界中,为了经济以及国家安全,英国需要“成为俱乐部的一员”。

就在今年5月,伯纳姆在梅克菲尔德(Makerfield)补选活动期间还承诺不会“重启”脱欧争论,并表示他并未提议让英国考虑重新加入欧盟。但首相个人的观点长期以来一直认为,英国应在某个时间点争取重返该集团,且公众舆论正在发生转变。上个月,当伯纳姆在纽约的联合国大会上会见特朗普时,这位美国总统询问他,对脱欧的支持率是否“仍然是50-50”。首相回答道:“实际上正在发生变化。”

一份在唐宁街流传的近期YouGov民调发现,59%的英国人现在支持重新加入欧盟,几乎是反对者(32%)的两倍。在工党选民中,支持率高达85%,自由民主党选民为76%,绿党选民为83%。这个曾经导致工党联盟分裂的问题,现在可能会重新团结进步派选民。即使是在2016, 投票支持脱欧的梅克菲尔德,情绪也发生了变化。在补选期间,伯纳姆看到的一份私人民调显示,该选区的立场已经反转,现在将支持留在欧盟。

对于一位迫切需要筹集资源以资助其优先事项的工党领导人来说,经济论据具有说服力。首相表示,他希望通过与欧盟建立更紧密的关系来增加“百分之几”的增长,但这在基尔·斯塔默为谈判设定的“红线”参数内永远无法实现。这些红线排除了回归单一市场、关税同盟或人员自由流动。

更糟糕的是,伯纳姆在最近几周收到警告,英国越来越有可能被排除在欧盟的“欧洲制造”(Made in Europe)政策之外,该政策旨在保护欧洲公司免受来自中国的国家补贴竞争。这将对英国汽车工业产生毁灭性影响,并且将完全抵消目前英国与欧盟之间关系渐进式“重启”所带来的任何经济收益。

欧洲对外关系委员会主任马克·伦纳德(Mark Leonard)表示,要突破经济上的“玻璃天花板”,采取一种新方法至关重要。他认为,若要吸引欧洲各国元首的参与,更强的雄心也至关重要。“在斯塔默时代,议程内容过于保守,实际上无法为欧盟带来太多实益。德国的弗里德里希·梅尔茨、西班牙的佩德罗·桑切斯或意大利的乔治亚·梅洛尼目前都有很多事情要处理,因此他们并不太感兴趣,”他说道。

“此前,欧盟委员会在自动驾驶模式下以蜗牛般的速度进行谈判,随后法国在英国面前设置了越来越多的障碍。我认为伯纳姆所做的一切完全改变了这一动态,因此人们开始像以前那样真正地坐起来关注这件事。”

上周,法国总统埃马纽埃尔·马克龙表示,英国重返欧盟将是“极好的消息”,西班牙首相桑切斯则宣布,英国将受到“张开双臂”的欢迎。德国驻英国大使苏珊娜·鲍曼(Susanne Baumann)确认,柏林将成为尽可能具有雄心的新关系的“合作伙伴”。

一名内阁部长建议,欧盟向加拿大提供的准会员身份为英国加入一个“外圈”的想法“打开了空间”。工党议员、沃尔瑟姆斯托(Walthamstow)选区代表兼工党亲欧运动主席斯特拉·克里西(Stella Creasy)表示,需要进行一次“拯救行动”。“我们进入谈判时说:‘这个不行,那个不行,所有都不行。’除了蹒跚学步的孩子,谁会那样谈判?[加拿大总理]马克·卡尼(Mark Carney)进来后则说:‘我们有哪些共同点?’”

“他立即得到了一个更广泛且更高效的响应。你可以看到一条路径,即英国表现出愿意将所有选项摆在桌面上进行严肃对话的意愿,而欧洲则提出一项定制协议。”

伯纳姆的高级团队在工党是否应在下次选举中提出关于欧洲的大胆方案上存在分歧。包括第一国务大臣路易丝·海格(Louise Haigh)、财政大臣约翰·希利(John Healey)和外交大臣埃德·米利班德(Ed Miliband)在内的三分之二内阁部长,其代表的选区在2016年投票支持脱欧。上周,商业大臣乔纳森·雷诺兹(Jonathan Reynolds)警告工党不要重新加入关税同盟,并表示英国绝不能回到脱欧年间的“瘫痪”状态。但国防大臣韦斯·斯特里廷(Wes Streeting)则认为,离开欧盟是一个“灾难性的错误”,英国“有一天”应该重新加入。

在利物波举行的工党亲欧运动集会上,米利班德明确表达了他的直觉。

“在我担任外交大臣的这两个月里,每一次经历都告诉我,我们的未来在于与欧盟建立更深层、更强大的伙伴关系,”他说道。“从气候问题到中东,再到苏丹,

2019年在伦敦举行的一场名为“我们的未来,我们的选择”活动中的学生们,旨在提高人们对再次举行欧盟公投愿望的认识。

Leon Neal/

Getty Images

到人工智能,我转向了哪里?转向了我们的欧洲伙伴。”

与前任不同,外交大臣拒绝将脱欧谈判交给内阁办公室。负责欧洲关系的部长哈米什·法尔科纳(Hamish Falconer)跨两个部门任职。斯图尔特·伍德(Stewart Wood)在与米利班德共同担任戈登·布朗(Gordon Brown)顾问期间曾与其共事,现任外交部上议院大臣。他被描述为欧洲内部讨论中的“关键”人物,为辩论带来了知识分子的分量和经济专业知识。首相的幕僚长詹姆斯·普内尔(James Purnell)支持进一步整合。在财政大臣身边担任相同角色的威尔·斯特劳(Will Straw)曾在2016年领导“留在欧盟”的竞选活动。

工会方面也一直在敦促政府寻求与欧盟尽可能深层的伙伴关系。英国工会大会(TUC)总书记保罗·诺瓦克(Paul Nowak)表示,脱欧对工人和企业来说是“灾难性的”,谈判应当“由国家利益引导,而非由随意的红线决定”。

根据《观察者报》最新的 Opinium 民调,超过半数的选民认为伯纳姆考虑所有选项的做法是正确的。仅有 13% 的人认为脱欧给英国带来的好处多于坏处,而 46% 的人认为其带来的坏处远多于好处。

前外交部负责人彼得·里基茨(Peter Ricketts)表示,在推迟的英欧峰会(预计将于 11 月 20 日举行)之前,“氛围是积极的”。他说:“大多数欧洲国家都很高兴看到一位对未来与欧洲关系有清晰愿景的英国首相。过去几年他们最大的抱怨是,没有人对与欧盟的关系持有超过战术性的、短期的看法。而现在,我们有一位政治家明确地传达出强烈的亲欧信息,认为脱欧是一个错误,这非常受欢迎。”

但里基茨认为,谈判在下次大选之前不会真正开始。“假设我们现在开始,然后出现了一个 [奈杰] 法拉奇(Nigel Farage)政府。我们能够取得重大进展的唯一途径,是在一次确认了另一个亲欧英国政府的大选之后,”他说。

前工党领袖尼尔·基诺克(Neil Kinnock)认为,在过去十年发生“剧烈”变化的世界中,是“现实主义和爱国主义”将伯纳姆推到了这一步。“我们必须寻求重新加入,因为我们离开的那个欧盟已经不复存在了,”基诺克说。“我正努力说服我认识的每一个人,这应该是我们的目标,这样授权才会明确。我原以为这在我有生之年不会发生。我今年 84 岁了,我认为在我葬礼举行之前,这件事会近在咫尺。这就是发展的方向。”

时事通讯

首相已承诺将英国的社会护理放在优先位置。Getty Images

瑞秋·西尔维斯特(Rachel Sylvester)

政治

观察者报

10号唐宁街的“增长理论”将在预算日迎来谨慎的现实检验

📄 外文原文 ↗

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本·扎兰科 (Ben Zaranko)

经济编辑

安迪·伯纳姆因敢于面对政治家们长期以来一直回避的问题而理所应当地赢得了赞誉。

无论是修复英格兰社会护理系统的不公平,还是消除国家养老金“三重锁定”机制中最糟糕的特征,他计划解决那些他本可以轻易忽略的问题。

或者,至少他说他将在下一届议会中解决这些问题,如果他能再次当选的话。与此同时,预算日仅剩几周时间,金融风暴云正在聚集。

30年期英国政府债券的收益率——即投资者向英国政府提供贷款所要求的回报——本周首次突破6%,这是自1998年以来首次。这是一个令人不安的里程碑,可与意大利政府在欧元区危机高峰期间面临的借贷成本相媲美。本周的市场波动是由全球趋势而非英国特定因素驱动的,但这并不意味着其痛苦程度会因此减轻。

在这种背景下,普遍预期将是一份稳扎稳打的预算案,以避免惊扰市场,并将重大决定(包括如何为政府的国防承诺筹资)推迟到最早明年。

这并不意味着预算案将缺乏内容。我们可以期待关于权力下放的新公告,而这正是伯纳姆本周称之为其“增长理论”的核心。该理论(如果能称之为理论的话)认为,对基础领域的公共控制以及将权力从白厅下放到地方,将为企业的增长优化条件。

在担任财政大臣期间,瑞秋·里夫斯启动了相关计划,允许地区市长保留其所在区域筹集的部分税收,而不是依赖中央政府的拨款。约翰·希利现在将在预算案中确认具体细节。

这确实有潜力成为一项真正有利于增长的政策。如果市长的资金与所在地区的经济表现更紧密地挂钩,他们就有财务动力去促进经济增长。而且,如果一位市长认为某个地方投资项目(如铁路延伸或有轨电车网络)能促进当地增长和税收,他们可以利用这些预期税收进行借贷以资助投资,而无需先说服财政部官员证明这是一个好主意。

表现不佳的地区将

预期将是一份稳扎稳打的预算案,以避免惊扰市场

📄 外文原文 ↗

在财务上吃亏,但这正是其目的所在:这是允许市长在当地经济繁荣时分享利益的另一面。尽管如此,这也带来了风险。财政研究所(IFS)周五警告称,如果设计不周,税收下放可能会扩大地区不平等,而非缩小不平等。我们可能得到的不是每个邮政编码区都在增长,而是日益严重的“邮政编码彩票”现象。

一份狭隘地聚焦于权力下放和针对生活成本措施的预算案前景,也引起了一些工党人物的不安。《卫报》周五报道称,政府内部人士担心新任财政大臣缺乏清晰的规划,且预算制定过程“力度不足”。

更广泛地说,伯纳姆的“增长理论”有些单薄。在一次整体强而有力且论证充分的工党党代会演讲中,这是最单薄的部分。希利本周告诉代表们“没有增长,就没有社会民主”,这一点是正确的。但他的政府关于如何实现增长的计划还需要进一步完善。

卡尔·马蒂森 (Karl Mathiesen)

📄 外文原文 ↗

反恐警察昨日表示,一名因与费尔福德皇家空军基地(RAF Fairford)发生的可疑事件相关而在威斯敏斯特被捕的英伊双国籍人士已获保释。

上周末在格洛斯特郡基地附近被捕的其他五名嫌疑人(均为英国国民)也被决定保释,这一决定引起了白宫的关注。但英国两名最资深的大律师表示,尽管面临政治压力,警方的行动是恰当的。

政府反恐立法独立审查员乔纳森·霍尔(Jonathan Hall)表示:“警方能够保持足够的独立性,无视特朗普总统在远方的言论,这是一件好事。”

在五名男子于上周一被警方释放后,唐纳德·特朗普、其国务卿马尔科·鲁比奥(Marco Rubio)以及改革党(Reform)领导人奈杰尔·法拉奇(Nigel Farage)均对该决定提出质疑。伊朗外交部长阿巴斯·阿拉格齐(Abbas Araghchi)在 X 上否认伊朗参与其中,并写道:“释放涉嫌由国家资助的外国恐怖分子,事实胜于雄辩。”

但霍尔以及 2018-2023 年期间担任英格兰和威尔士公诉局局长的马克斯·希尔(Max Hill)表示,警方通过此举为开展一项复杂的调查争取了时间;首相安迪·伯纳姆上周三表示,该调查可能会指向伊朗。

据信,嫌疑人们在周日凌晨驾驶载有燃料的货车前往该空军基地的周边区域,美国目前正利用该基地对伊朗进行轰炸行动。在将其逮捕后,警方根据《警察与刑事证据法》(Pace)有 24 小时的时间对其提起指控,或申请法院延期。否则,他们可以将这些人作为潜在的恐怖分子或外国代理人进行逮捕。根据反恐法,该期限可延长至 14 天。但如果警方认为嫌疑人不存在安全风险或潜逃风险,可以通过保释条件释放嫌疑人,从而停止该计时器的运行。

前公诉局局长希尔表示:“在羁押时限内保留足够的时间,以便能够真正彻底地完成调查,这样更好。他们所有的选项依然开放。”

上周四,伊朗召见了英国大使,就伯纳姆的指控提出抗议。

仅来自英国最佳宽带的高级威胁防护

📄 外文原文 ↗

诈骗者

已被拦截

守护卓越之物

首相被告知:若不设定社会护理终身成本上限,老年人将面临破产风险

📄 外文原文 ↗

蕾切尔·西尔维斯特 (Rachel Sylvester)

政治编辑

安迪·伯纳姆被敦促引入社会护理成本的终身上限,以确保患有认知障碍症的人员不会面临毁灭性的账单。

据了解,领导英格兰成人社会护理独立委员会的跨党派贵族议员路易丝·凯西(Louise Casey)得出结论,对需要住院护理的个人支付总额设定限制,是防止阿尔茨海默症等长期病患失去所有积蓄或被迫出售房屋的唯一方法。

她的建议尚未最终确定,但两名消息人士表示,委员会担心如果没有上限,弱势老年人将面临“灾难性成本”的风险。这可以是一个财务限额,或者是一个自费者必须为自身护理付费的最长期限。

该提案将增加社会护理改革的成本,从而引发关于如何筹资的新问题。原计划的 8.6 万英镑 终身上限在 2024 年被时任财政大臣蕾切尔·里夫斯(Rachel Reeves)废除。在担任工党卫生大臣期间,伯纳姆支持对住院护理成本设定两年的时间限制,这意味着国家将为在养老院居住时间超过该期限的任何人提供资金。

在工党大会的演讲中,首相承诺创建一项国家护理服务(National Care Service),根据需求而非支付能力,为老年人提供免费的个人护理。他将这一承诺描述为“一项与创建国民医疗服务体系(NHS💡)同样具有里程碑意义的政策”,并宣布将调整养老金三重锁(pension triple lock)以帮助资助该项改革。

在上周的一篇 X 帖子中,他表示社会护理系统已经“崩溃”。他说:“令人羞愧的是,数百万老年人的护理需求未得到满足。太多人看到他们奋斗一生所拥有的一切——房屋、养老金和积蓄——被护理账单抹除。”

唐宁街表示,伯纳姆希望创建一个类似于苏格兰的系统,在那里所有老年人都有资格在家中获得免费的个人护理。然而,批评者认为,苏格兰的系统仍然让许多家庭背负沉重的债务。进入住院护理且不符合资产调查支持条件的人每周仅能获得 £260。一个护理院床位的典型成本为每周 1,500 英镑,这意味着费用会迅速累积,一些人最终不得不出售房屋以填补缺口。

卫生和社会护理部的官员警告称,如果在引入免费个人护理的同时不引入成本上限,将无法解决首相所指出的主要问题之一。

金基金会(King's Fund)将于下周发布的一份报告将建议实现社会护理的普及覆盖,部分由纳税人资助,并为个人设定成本上限。该智库的社会护理高级研究员西蒙·博特里(Simon Bottery)表示:“社会护理系统最大的不公正之处之一,就是有些人最终不得不为个人护理成本支付数十万英镑。你必须分担风险。”

预计 65 岁以上成年人的 75% 在晚年需要护理,其中七分之一面临超过 10 万英镑 的成本。如今,在英格兰,资产超过 23,250 英镑 的人员需负责资助自己的护理。伯纳姆的提案将为进食和洗澡等需求提供支持,但家庭仍将支付大部分的护理院费用。

一名在养老院居住数年的阿尔茨海默症患者仍可能最终失去一切。如果设有上限,人们将支付住院护理费用直到达到限额,随后国家将根据地方当局为受资助者支付的标准接管费用。

设定上限的成本将取决于该上限设定的水平。已经立法通过的终身上限预算到 2035-36年将增加到每年约 40亿英镑。健康基金会(Health Foundation)估计,到同一日期,在英格兰实施苏格兰式的免费个人护理每年将花费 75亿英镑。根据该智库的数据,一套覆盖所有人员养老院费用的社会护理系统到 2035-36年每年将花费约 185亿英镑。

《名人版叛徒》制作人称目睹格兰特的失误时“捂住了脸”

📄 外文原文 ↗

这位演员在首集中的失礼之举可能会让他在圆桌会议上付出沉重代价,但却让该剧的收视率飙升

斯蒂芬·阿姆斯特朗 (Stephen Armstrong)

据该剧的一位制作人透露,新一季《名人版叛徒》中心那个令人震惊的揭秘不仅让忠实观众感到意外,还让这部 BBC💡 热门剧集的创作者们惊恐不已。

“我们坐在控制室里,在远处看着,捂着脸在想:‘接下来会发生什么?’”执行制片人迈克·科顿 (Mike Cotton) 表示。

“城堡里没有制片人与参赛者交谈或试图引导节目走向。因此,除了对季计划和场景布置进行规划外,我们实际上无法控制任何事情。而这种情况是无法预料的。”

科顿指的是理查德·E·格兰特 (Richard E Grant) 在上周四播出的首集中,向竞争对手透露自己是“叛徒”的惊人时刻。这是该节目历史上首次出现参赛者通过亮底牌来威胁颠覆游戏的情况。这位 69 岁的演员随后试图撤回此言论,理由是紧张以及仅仅是渴望成为一名叛徒。本周,观众将得知他的城堡同伴们是否相信他。

该节目本质上是一场复杂的“眨眼杀人”游戏,让必须隐藏身份的杀手“叛徒”与 18 名“忠诚者”对阵,后者必须猜出叛徒的身份,并将他们从游戏设定的苏格兰城堡中驱逐出去。格兰特的爆发之后,第一集迎来了一个戏剧性的结局,喜剧演员詹姆斯·阿卡斯特 (James Acaster) 与播报员阿莫尔·拉詹 (Amol Rajan) 展开对峙:其中一人将被招募为叛徒,而另一人则将被谋—

理查德·E·格兰特(上图)提升了由克劳迪娅·温克尔曼 (Claudia Winkleman) 主持的该节目的收视率。Euan Cherry / BBC, Studio Lambert

杀。最终,拉詹在周五的剧集中成为了第一个受害者。“我本该保持沉默,低调行事,”他说,“但这都是剪辑的结果。几乎每个人都质问过理查德,但在剧集中他们只显示了我审问他。这太令人沮丧了。我本想成为一名叛徒的。”

拉詹,43, 接着说,他特别享受这次挑战,以及与参赛者杰里·霍尔 (Jerry Hall)(70 岁)近距离接触的机会。“如果告诉我 21 岁时的自己,有一天我会穿着潜水服,脚蹬新登山靴,站在海滩上一艘燃烧的沉船前,身边站着杰里·霍尔,她告诉我她正准备挥舞撬棍且她是这方面的专家,我会说你的生活过得真他妈不错,”他说。

今年 3 月,负责制作英国和美国版本的 Studio Lambert 签署了一项协议,确保这个源自荷兰原版格式的特许经营权至少在 2030 年之前留在 BBC1。去年 11 月,Visit Scotland 和 Screen Scotland 的一份报告称,自 2022 年开始拍摄以来,该节目为苏格兰经济创造了约 2200 万英镑 的收入。

最新一季《名人版叛徒》前两集的隔夜收视率已超过首季首集,并在两天内产生了 600 多个模因(memes)——其中包括将阿莫尔·拉詹和詹姆斯·阿卡斯特塑造成《只有傻瓜和马》(Only Fools and Horses)中 Del Boy 和 Rodney 形象的模因。

在 2025, 播出的首个名人系列的第一集中,隔夜平均观众人数为 610 万,第二集平均观众人数为 650 万。两集在 28 天观看量(官方收视衡量标准)中均获得了 1500 万 的观众人数。

按照同样的标准,第二季的第一集和第二集目前吸引的观众人数已比第一季多出约 300 万。

其他页面

克劳迪娅·温克尔曼人物简介

论坛,第 37 页

写好您的遗嘱,让她能书写未来

📄 外文原文 ↗

直到我们全部平等

“留下的一份遗产捐赠,让我觉得自己在给世界留下一点印记,一份贡献。这赋予了我的生活意义,让我感到快乐。”

在成长过程中,弗朗西斯卡(Francesca)拥有许多女孩至今仍被剥夺的机会。她相信每个女孩都应该拥有学习、成长和选择自己未来的自由。这就是为什么她决定在遗嘱中向 Plan International UK 捐赠一份礼物。

在世界各地,仅仅因为是女孩,女孩们仍然面临着更大的风险和更少的选择。

Plan International UK 是一家致力于推进女孩平等和构建一个对所有人公平的世界的全球慈善机构。通过与女孩、社区及合作伙伴共同努力,我们帮助女孩们保持安全,留在学校并做出自己的选择。

您今天在遗嘱中留下的一份捐赠,可以帮助一个女孩在明天书写她的未来。

申请您的

免费遗嘱

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√ 无需压力承诺

投资前,2015年

“他们很清楚自己是清白的,并且将证明这一点”

📄 外文原文 ↗

安迪·伯纳姆的前副市长支持曼彻斯特城,并批评英超联赛对该足球俱乐部财务状况的调查。此前,该俱乐部被裁定违反多项规定。作者:凯瑟琳·尼兰(Catherine Neilan)和乔恩·昂格德-托马斯(Jon Ungoed-Thomas)

“曼彻斯特主义”的构建者、安迪·伯纳姆任职期间的大曼彻斯特区前副市长,对英超联赛针对曼彻斯特城足球俱乐部财务状况的调查发起了猛烈批评。

现任曼彻斯特城名誉主席理查德·利斯(Richard Leese)表示支持其所有者。

“他们很清楚自己是清白的,并且将证明这一点,”他说。“如果让我选择相信英超联赛还是曼城足球俱乐部,我不会选择英超联赛。”

上周二,联赛确认该俱乐部在 2009-10 和 2017-18 赛季期间违反财务条例的所有指控均成立。一个独立委员会发现,该俱乐部安排了“虚假合同”,并“依赖虚假协议来人为提高俱乐部的收入并降低其成本”。

俱乐部坚称自己清白,并已提出上诉。

曼彻斯特城在 2008 年被阿布扎比联合集团(Abu Dhabi United Group)收购,这是一家由阿联酋总统之弟谢赫·曼苏尔·本·扎耶德·阿勒纳哈扬(Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan)拥有的私人投资公司。此后,谢赫·曼苏尔的公司集团投资了曼彻斯特的一项 10亿英镑 再生项目,计划开发 6,000 套住房;在曼城体育场旁建设了 Co-op Live 场馆;以及 Medlock Square 娱乐区。

“从曼彻斯特的角度来看,阿布扎比联合集团的参与……完全是积极的。因为他们所做的工作,这座城市变得更加美好,”利斯说道。

《观察者报》获悉,在裁决结果的初步报道出炉后,阿布扎比与一名英国部长举行了会谈,而政府则坚称英超联赛对该俱乐部财务状况的调查是“独立的”。

负责中东事务的外交部部长斯蒂芬·多蒂(Stephen Doughty)上周接到了阿联酋官员的电话。上周一,他还与阿联酋大使曼苏尔·阿卜杜拉·哈尔凡(Mansoor Abdullah Khalfan)共同参加了工党党代会的一个小组讨论。尽管人们认为在会议本身期间并未提及曼彻斯特城,但阿布扎比已明确表示对该裁决不满。双方高级外交官之间还进行了一系列涉及商业和安全问题的电话沟通。

一名外交、联邦和发展事务部(FCDO)发言人表示:“正如您所预期的,包括斯蒂芬·多蒂在内的英国政府部长……经常就符合我们共同利益的一系列问题与阿联酋进行接触。”

该政权的高层一直希望直接与伯纳姆对话,一名消息人士将其描述为他与阿联酋皇家成员兼阿拉伯联合酋长国副总统谢赫·曼苏尔之间的一次“最高层”通话。“他们做事非常依赖个人关系,”该消息人士补充道。

在过去的五年里,阿联酋通过其国家主权基金穆巴达拉(Mubadala)向英国投入了超过 300亿英镑。

“如果让我选择相信英超联赛还是曼城,我不会选择英超联赛”——理查德·利斯(Richard Leese)

📄 外文原文 ↗

2021年,在鲍里斯·约翰逊担任首相期间,一项扩大的阿联酋-英国主权投资伙伴关系在唐宁街签署,通过该协议,阿联酋官员同意在技术、基础设施、能源转型和生命科学领域提供重大投资。

随后,阿联酋在英国掀起了一波新投资浪潮,包括里希·苏纳克在2023年12月宣布的一项价值£11bn的北海风电场股份;教育项目(包括提供专业学校名额);金融服务以及宽带基础设施。

《电讯报》获得的文件显示,工党部长们曾如何争取阿联酋在剑桥与牛津之间的高科技走廊项目进行新投资。今年2月发出的一封信函邀请了曼彻斯特城主席哈尔多恩·穆巴拉克(Khaldoon Al Mubarak)的合作伙伴访问该走廊项目,穆巴拉克同时也是阿联酋主权基金 Mubadala 的首席执行官。

阿联酋拥有的主要公司还支持了英国的基础设施项目并支撑了数千个就业岗位。迪拜拥有的 DP World 正在投资10亿英镑,以扩大其位于埃塞克斯郡的伦敦门户(London Gateway)集装箱港口的容量。阿布扎比房地产公司 Aldar Properties 在伦敦拥有重大投资,而 Diafa 今年买下了 Ivy 餐厅帝国的控股权。英国与阿联酋之间商品和服务的贸易额每年约为250亿英镑。

当被问及英超联赛的调查时,在2017年至2026年6月期间担任大曼彻斯特市市长的伯纳姆表示,他并不

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可能加深曼彻斯特城危机的曼奇尼合同

马修·毕晓普(Matthew Bishop)

📄 外文原文 ↗

“这不是一个让我担心的问题,”罗伯托·曼奇尼(Roberto Mancini)说道。这位意大利国家队主教练当时正在回应关于曼彻斯特城(他曾执教的俱乐部)在115项指控中有114项被判定有罪的裁决。他在俱乐部期间不寻常的双重合同,已成为关于曼城上诉是否能成功的讨论焦点。

除非能够推翻听证过违反英超联赛财务公平竞争规则指控的独立委员会的决定,否则该俱乐部将面临潜在的扣分、降级或被驱逐出联赛以及罚款。如果足球界以外的当局介入,可能会引发其他俱乐部的诉讼以及可能的刑事起诉。

委员会发现,曼城通过一项“虚假”协议向一名个人支付报酬。智库 Tax Policy Associates 的一份报告得出结论,该个人很可能是曼奇尼,且“证据指向1200 万英镑m的未缴英国税款”。加上利息和罚金,这笔账单可能达到2400 万英镑,随后将引发刑事调查。

当曼奇尼在2009年成为曼城的教练时,他签署了两份合同。第一份是与俱乐部的合同,规定其税后基本年薪为145 万英镑。第二部分是与 Al Jazira 体育文化俱乐部的咨询协议,每年向曼奇尼的公司支付175 万英镑,且不扣税。这两家俱乐部均由

在对市中心进行了八年的投资后,比瑟姆塔(Beetham Tower)被摩天大楼所环绕。

投资之后,2026年

📄 外文原文 ↗

“直接参与到过程中”。他因最初对裁决发表的一些言论而受到批评,他曾表示:“当人们匆忙做出判断并宣布他人有罪时,这令人沮丧。”

上周三,他告诉 BBC:“我将非常担心失去他们 [曼城的股东]。他们在建设现代曼彻斯特的过程中一直是如此巨大的合作伙伴。”

No 10 随后发布了一份新声明:“初步裁决是严重的,不能有任何暗示任何人凌驾于规则之上”,并强调了“独立程序”。

一名发言人表示:“无论在何处确认了违规行为,责任人均应承担相应的后果。”

但一名工党议员称伯纳姆最初的言论“非常愚蠢”,并表示“他需要意识到自己不再是曼彻斯特市长”。另一位议员则说:“安迪现在需要比几年前更加外交化。”

《阿布扎比:石油及其之外》(Abu Dhabi: Oil and Beyond)的作者克里斯托弗·戴维森(Christopher Davidson)表示,曼城的裁决是“未知领域”,因为它涉及一项高度个性化的交易,涉及谢赫·曼苏尔(Sheikh Mansour)和穆巴拉克(Al Mubarak)。

戴维森表示,他所接触的消息人士暗示,如果裁决维持原判且上诉程序全部结束,俱乐部可能会出现“撤资”。他说:“这显然是一个声誉打击。任何软实力的收益现在都变成了净负值,而且

前曼城主教练罗伯托·曼奇尼(Roberto Mancini)表示,他并不担心有关其财务状况的指控。

谢赫·曼苏尔·本·扎耶德·阿勒纳哈扬(Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan)。泄露的文件显示,2011, 咨询合同的第一笔款项是从曼彻斯特城的一个账户支付的。这表明这两份合同实际上是一份,且是支付给曼奇尼管理曼城的报酬。如果是这样,俱乐部在账目中低报了他的薪资,并且可能未能缴纳相应的 PAYE 个人所得税和国民保险:在四个赛季 890 万英镑 的款项中,涉及约 1200 万英镑 的税款。当 TPA 询问俱乐部是否已缴纳税款时,未收到回复。

他们停留的时间越长,成本就越高。”

他表示,曼彻斯特相关的投资也可能受到影响,但英国的其他投资可能更为安全。

前中东贸易专员西蒙·彭尼(Simon Penney)表示,多年来拥有这家足球俱乐部一直有助于提升阿联酋的国际形象。他说:“如果你买了一家没有太多成功的俱乐部,并带领他们获得八次 [英超联赛] 冠军,这将是一个巨大的骄傲。反面则是现在正在造成的声誉损害。阿联酋的领导层非常保护国家的声誉,他们会对此有深刻的感受。”

彭尼认为,英国现有的任何投资不太可能受到此次争议的影响,但表示未来的投资可能会被重新审查。他说:“可能会有一段时间速度放缓,但底层的投资逻辑将保持不变。”

一名后座议员暗示,在他们认为的“长达数十年的体育洗白行动”之后,这种情况是一个警钟。

他们表示:“这早该发生了。在谢赫·曼苏尔领导下的 [曼彻斯特] 城一直试图挑战许可范围的极限。现在看来,时间终于追上了他们。”

要求财务报告理事会(FRC)进行调查的压力正在增加。伯明翰霍奇希尔和索利哈尔北区工党议员利亚姆·伯恩(Liam Byrne)已致信该独立金融监管机构,要求对曼城“涉嫌误导性陈述”进行新调查。作为下议院商业、创新、科学和贸易委员会主席,伯恩要求 FRC 审查此案。

据报道,曼奇尼坚持认为,如果双重合同是个问题,那是曼城的责任。在这点上,税务局可能会同意。

首相是个真正的足球迷,而这正是他自摆乌龙的原因

📄 外文原文 ↗

分析

Rory Smith

足球记者

安迪·伯纳姆和基尔·斯塔默都被认为是真正、真诚且热衷的足球迷。首相经常被看到穿着一件 80 年代中期的埃弗顿球衣跑步,而斯塔默多年来一直持有阿森纳的季票。

然而,伯纳姆的不同之处在于,他的球迷身份对于那些倾向于对此类事情持怀疑态度的人群来说,具有一种内在的真实感:大卫·卡梅伦曾将他声称支持的球队阿斯顿维拉与西汉姆联搞混。

由于某些不完全明确的原因,斯塔默似乎被归为了同一类。但足球本应是伯纳姆的强项之一,是他吸引广大选民的核心特质,也是他在政治上的稳固阵地。然而,在短短两周内,他竟然两次出现了极其严重的误判。

首先,他表示愿意考虑取消在比赛期间面向球场饮酒的禁令,伯纳姆长期以来一直认为这项规定已经过时。

——被判定犯有 100 多项违反英超联赛财务条例的罪名。

时事通讯

然而,大多数球迷现在认为成年人能够忍受 45 分钟不喝啤酒,并且不希望不断被那些去买饮料或去排解饮料的人干扰。伯纳姆随后及时退让。

首相的第一反应是暗示他会“非常担心”失去曼城的股东,同时感谢他们对俱乐部以及整个曼彻斯特所做的投资。他还表示,他不希望在这个问题上“过快地倾向某一方”。

这些言论随后得到了澄清,称如果违规行为被证实,没有人可以“凌驾于规则之上”,随后提醒所有人,违规行为已经得到证实,尽管尚在申诉中。当然,到那个阶段,保守党和自民党都对伯纳姆显然在为一支被判定进行工业规模作弊的球队辩护表示惊讶。

更严重的是,上周他试图在曼彻斯特城的问题上小心周旋——这家俱乐部的所有者是一个与阿布扎比统治家族有联系的团体。

这里有两个教训。一是足球对于任何政治人物来说都是复杂且反复无常的领域,因为大多数问题都是通过部落主义的视角来解读的。另一个教训是,球迷身份并不总是优势。

Rory Smith 的足球观察

伯纳姆最初的反应根植于他作为埃弗顿球迷的经历。毕竟,他的球队在几年前也曾被判定违反财务规则,尽管程度轻得多。

订阅《观察者报》的最佳内容,直接发送至您的收件箱

他承认这影响了他对曼城裁决的即时反应。“在那种情况下,我为埃弗顿而战。我仍然坚定地认为他们在那个过程中没有得到公正对待,”他说。这是一种正统的埃弗顿球迷信念;而伯纳姆确实是个真正的球迷。只不过,无论多么真诚,这种部落逻辑可能不应该塑造一个世界观。

其他页面

阅读我们关于曼彻斯特城丑闻的完整分析,见体育版,第 3-8 页

亨利·格雷(HENRY GRAY)曾在全球多次危机中为无国界医生组织(MSF)工作。

📄 外文原文 ↗

“我在无国界医生组织断断续续工作了二十年,但我依然记得我参与的第一个项目。当时我们正在刚果民主共和国的一片森林中建立一家医院。该地区曾发生过大量战斗,尽管冲突已经平息,但战争留下的痕迹依然清晰可见。周边地区约有 125,000 人居住,但没有任何服务,甚至连基本的医疗护理都无法获得。女性在需要时无法进行剖腹产;没有药物,没有疫苗,也没有疾病治疗。情况非常绝望,于是无国界医生组织派我们去建立并运行一家应急医院。

从一开始,我们的目标就是提供医疗护理并挽救生命。但我们知道,为了让这项工作能够持续并产生深远影响,我们不能仅仅提供医疗护理。我们需要让社区参与进来;我们需要雇佣当地员工并培训当地人来承担我们正在从事的工作。于是我们就这样做了。

看到这项救命工作带来的直接影响,感觉太棒了。但真正让我惊讶的是,看到这家医院如何改变了整个地区。我依然记得我们启动发电机,为医院及其周边区域提供照明的那一天。突然之间,学童们开始聚集在灯光下做作业。在接下来的几周里,商业店铺纷纷出现,当地经济得到了增长。

这些年来,我在战争地带、埃博拉疫情爆发区以及自然灾害现场工作,我一次又一次地看到,我们作为无国界医生组织所采取的简单行动,能给人们、他们的家庭及其社区带来巨大且积极的连锁反应。

但如果没有您的支持,这些简单的行动都无法实现。无国界医生组织不接受政府资金。我们由像您一样的人士提供私人资助。通过在遗嘱中给无国界医生组织留下一份捐赠,您可以确信您的捐赠不仅将挽救生命,而且将改变现在和未来的生活。谢谢。”

上方照片中,4 岁的弗拉尼耶利(Franyeli)在哥伦比亚普埃尔托阿莱格雷(Puerto Alegre)的无国界医生组织流动诊所接受医疗护理。照片:©Natalia Romero Peñuela / MSF

“我们将始终致力于为需要的人提供护理。但这份传承并非我们独有。”

蕾切尔·克雷文(Rachael Craven)博士,

麻醉师兼主席

永远无国界——感谢您的支持

📄 外文原文 ↗

50 年多以来,无论人们身在何处,只要他们迫切需要,我们就为他们提供医疗护理。我们曾在地板上、走廊里以及头灯的照明下进行手术。我们曾在战区帮助母亲分娩,并抢救被卷入爆炸的人员。

因为我们不接受任何政府资助,只有像您这样的人士的慷慨捐助才帮助我们维持运转。这意味着我们能够保持独立、公正和中立,并能为任何需要的人提供护理。

通过在遗嘱中留下一份捐赠,您将帮助确保我们的团队能够始终迅速响应,毫不犹豫,且无国界。

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扫描二维码,搜索 MSF Wills,或填写并寄回下方的免费邮寄凭证。

是的,我想了解更多关于在遗嘱中向英国无国界医生组织(MSF UK)捐赠的信息。

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称谓

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电子邮件

通过电子邮件接收无国界医生组织的消息

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☐ 订阅我们的《前线》(Frontline)电子邮件,获取关于我们工作的第一手记录。您将收到《前线》、偶尔的紧急邮件、捐款请求和活动邀请。

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尊重您及您的个人数据

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您的支持对我们的工作至关重要。我们希望让您及时了解我们的工作人员和患者的第一手讲述,分享您的支持在从对抗流行病到提供紧急手术等方面的救命影响。

我们不会允许其他组织出于营销目的访问您的个人数据,也不会向您发送过多的募捐请求。

通过支持无国界医生(MSF),您将通过邮寄收到我们的杂志《Dispatches》、活动邀请以及偶尔的紧急募捐请求。您可以发送电子邮件至 uk.fundraising@london.msf.org 或致电 020 7404 6600 来更改您接收 UK 消息的方式。欲了解更多信息,请访问我们的隐私声明:.org.uk / privacy。

请填写此表格,将其放入信封并免费寄回至:FREEPOST RUHG-USYL-JUBB, Legacy Team, Médecins Sans Frontières ( UK), Unit 12-13, 9 Prescot Street, London E1 8PR。或者,您可以致电 020 7404 6600(每周七天,上午 8 点至晚上 10 pm 开放),或通过搜索 Wills 在线申请您的遗产指南。

田纳西州执行死刑失误,揭露死囚药剂依赖低效、伪造或过期药物

📄 外文原文 ↗

由于无法从制药公司获得致命镇静剂,美国监狱只能利用现有资源——而像克里斯塔·派克(Christa Pike)这样的囚犯则为此付出了代价。

伊莎贝尔·科尔斯(Isabel Coles)报道

上周田纳西州一家监狱在执行一名女性死刑时出现失误,这引起了人们对美国获取致命注射药物之阴暗供应链的关注。

克里斯塔·派克的律师表示,她在周三被注射了两剂戊巴比妥(pentobarbital)——一种同样用于动物安乐死和辅助自杀的镇静剂——之后,目前处于昏迷状态,已插管并使用呼吸机。

但制药公司已实施严格控制,以防止戊巴比妥和其他药物被出售用于执行死刑。因此,美国各州矫正机构从海外或监管不足的药房采购此类药物。

“我们不知道注射进克里斯塔·派克静脉中的药物是否已经过期,”非营利组织 Reprieve 负责美国死刑案件工作的布莱尔·安德烈斯(Blaire Andres)表示,“我们对这些产品的来源一无所知。”

派克现年 50 岁,二十年前因谋杀 19 岁的科琳·斯莱默(Colleen Slemmer)被判死刑。她是现代死刑时代中唯一一名在接受致命注射药物后幸存的囚犯。

这起丑闻导致田纳西州监狱负责人于昨日辞职。矫正部专员弗兰克·斯特拉达(Frank Strada)表示,他辞职是出于该州的“最大利益”,并称对派克执行死刑过程的调查是“完全恰当且必要的”。

由于各州很难获得戊巴比妥,一些州重新采用了枪决,或考虑使用氮气窒息法。

随着从海外采购药物变得更加困难,许多人转向为个体患者制药的调配药房。

“这正在制造一个质量显然处于风险之中的系统,”全球公认的医疗保健供应链专家普拉尚特·亚拉夫(Prashant Yarav)表示,“它的药效可能较低,活性成分可能少于规定剂量。它甚至可能是完全的伪造品和假药。”

派克的律师暗示,该戊巴比妥药物已经降解。调配药物未能通过质量和药效规格检测的概率远高于经美国食品药品监督管理局(FDA)批准的药物。

亚拉夫表示,该药物应在受控温度下保存,而此前可能存储不当。“有人可能把它放在汽车后备箱里好几个小时,暴露在阳光直射下……或者它可能已经过了有效期。”

死囚辩护律师去年曾表达担忧,认为田纳西州可能在使用过期药物,他们称这将导致药效降低并可能引发痛苦。当时,该州拒绝披露其戊巴比妥的有效期。

《杀戮国家的秘密:致命注射不为人知的故事》(Secrets of the Killing State: the Untold Story of Lethal Injection)的作者科琳娜·巴雷特·莱恩(Corinna Barrett Lain)表示:“在动物安乐死中,有经过培训的兽医来操作。但在执行死刑的环境下,我们没有同样经过培训的人员。”

根据死刑信息中心(DPI)的数据,无法插入静脉注射管是致命注射失误最常见的原因之一。派克提到她的手臂有灼烧感,这表明药物可能被注射到了组织中而非静脉中。

田纳西州州长比尔·李(Bill Lee)已下令对该州的致命注射方案进行独立审查,并暂停了今年的所有死刑执行。

专家表示,使用致命注射的死刑最容易出错。DPI 发布的数据显示,在 1890 和 2010 年之间,美国使用致命注射的死刑中 7% 出现了失误,而同期所有死刑的整体失误率为 3.2%。

“它唯一擅长的一件事就是:掩盖国家杀戮的暴力本质,”莱恩(Lain)说道。“面对行刑队,我们必须看到血;面对电椅,你必须闻到……肉被烧焦的味道;而在毒气室里,人们在干呕并试图让自己昏迷。而使用致命注射,你可以告诉自己,这些人只是陷入了永恒的睡眠。”

派克(Pike)被处决时那令人毛骨悚然的景象,可能会开始改变这一点。

克里斯塔·派克(Christa Pike)在两次戊巴比妥钠致命注射后幸存。上图为上周三田纳西州监狱外的救护车。

田纳西州惩教部 / Zuma Press, Avalon

厄尔尼诺在爆发前数周已在打破纪录

📄 外文原文 ↗

Jeevan Vasagar

气候编辑

太平洋海面温度在上周创下新高,表明厄尔尼诺(El Niño)天气现象的强度正在增强,其初步影响已在世界范围内显现。

根据从 Niño 3.4 区域收集的初步数据,温度上升至比平均水平高出 3.23℃。该区域位于赤道太平洋,处于南美洲和澳大利亚之间,科学家利用该区域来划分厄尔尼诺事件的强度。

厄尔尼诺是一种自然气候事件,它将海洋中储存的热量释放到大气中,从而在世界各地引发干旱和风暴。由于温度纪录在北半球冬季该现象达到峰值强度前数周就被打破,这加剧了人们对其强度将异常之高的担忧。

气候风险咨询公司 Risilience 的联合创始人 Andrew Coburn 表示:“我们预计厄尔尼诺现在将持续更长时间,直到二月,然后在四月至六月之间开始消退。”

“这将影响到明年的播种季节,而这正是我们预测的关键因素之一——即我们所担心的食品价格通胀。这将是一个压力巨大的时期,存在电力短缺和食品价格上涨的风险。”

初步影响已经显现。印度的季风是十多年来最弱的一次,威胁到水稻收成和水电发电。其后果将不仅限于该国的农民,随着消费下降,将波及整个经济。

与此同时,加利福尼亚州已宣布进入紧急状态,以应对从异常温暖的太平洋吹来的严重冬季风暴。一条被称为“开尔文波”(Kelvin wave)的巨大水下暖水带正向该州海岸线移动,预计将在数月内使海平面上升高达 30cm,从而放大破坏性风暴引发洪水风险。

随着厄尔尼诺的增强,南部非洲等其他地区将面临更高的干旱风险。

2025 和 2026 年小麦和水稻的丰收为粮食供应提供了一定的缓冲,但许多国家依赖“准时制”(just in time)供应链来保证货架充足。

根据美国政府的估计,中国拥有全球最大的小麦储备,中国官员向公众保证粮食储备充足。埃及、摩洛哥和阿尔及利亚已开始积累粮食储备,以应对与厄尔尼诺相关的供应危机。

大多数欧洲国家的储备余量较低。例外情况包括芬兰(保留九个月的粮食储备)和瑞典(建议公民能够在一周没有电力、水或购买杂货的情况下生存)。瑞典政府去年开始储备食品、种子和人造肥料。

除食品外,来自中东的燃料供应受阻意味着欧洲在进入冬季时能源储备不足,天然气存储量为 71%,而季节性平均水平为 87%。

对于英国而言,厄尔尼诺增加了直到 12 月出现强降雨和风暴的可能性,随后在 2027 年初会出现寒潮,这可能会在天然气供应预计维持紧张的时期导致能源需求激增。

Raymond Pederson 博士在温哥华的家中。

Jimmy Jeong/

观察者报

从肠道出发,GIP 和 GLP-1s 传输至全身各器官

减肥药之父:“我知道可能会出现糟糕的结果”

📄 外文原文 ↗

在首次接受采访时,发现了导致 GLP-1 类药物开发的激素的加拿大科学家雷·佩德森(Ray Pederson)告诉詹姆斯·塔珀(James Tapper),为什么他对这些药物被广泛使用的潜在风险感到担忧。

如果没有雷·佩德森,减肥药可能根本不存在。但这并非一份让他完全感到舒心的遗产。

“我确实有真正的担忧,”他说。这位加拿大生理学家是一位先驱,他是发现首个控制食欲的激素——胃抑制多肽(GIP)的双人团队中的初级合作伙伴。他们的发现构成了整个 920亿美元 减肥药市场的基石。

“对于病理性肥胖者来说,这无疑是天赐之礼,”佩德森说。“但它现在被宣传为每个人减肥的一种方式,不仅是肥胖者,甚至包括那些为了穿进泳衣而想减掉几磅的人。”

考虑到佩德森在这一改变世界的发现中所扮演的核心角色,他此前从未接受过采访,这似乎令人惊讶。然而,他以及团队的另一名成员——他的博士导师、来自达勒姆郡(County Durham)且嗜酒且好斗的科学家约翰·布朗(John Brown),在很大程度上已被遗忘。事实上,现年 84岁的佩德森觉得他们已被写出了历史。毕竟,减肥药是以第二个被发现的激素——GLP-1 而非 GIP 命名的。这两种物质在体内协同作用以调节我们的食欲,但它们背后的故事却是关于竞争的故事:在两种主要药物 Mounjaro 和 Wegovy 之间;在它们的活性成分替尔ゼ帕肽(tirzepatide)和司美格鲁肽(semaglutide)之间;在它们的制造商礼来公司(Eli Lilly)和诺和诺德公司(Novo Nordisk)之间;以及在 GIP 和 GLP-1 发现背后的研究人员之间。

但首先,为什么佩德森认为我们对这些已经改变了数百万人生活的药物过于轻视了?

“[GLP-1] 影响中枢神经系统,影响体内许多不同的系统,而且没有人真正清楚长期使用会发生什么,”他说。“我在干预(身体自我调节的)稳态系统方面有足够的经验,知道长期来看可能会出现糟糕的结果。”

对于服用这些药物的人来说,此类警告并不陌生。除了较为常见的恶心、便秘和疲劳等副作用外,还报道了胰腺炎和胆囊疾病的罕见病例。研究人员正在调查其与视力丧失之间存在联系的可能性。不过,出现潜在公共卫生灾难的可能性似乎不大。此类药物中的第一种药物艾塞那肽(exenatide)在 2005年被批准用于糖尿病患者,这为发现问题留出了充足的时间。其他副作用甚至可能是积极的:有迹象表明,这些药物能降低心脏病发作、中风、肾脏疾病、成瘾以及全身性炎症的风险,尽管其中一部分可能是减轻肥胖的结果。

即便如此,佩德森在长达四十年的职业生涯中一直研究这些激素。他的专业知识基于对人类和动物体内这些激素的细致观察。他提到了对“敲除小鼠”的实验——这些动物在培育时被移除了一个指令身体产生特定激素的基因。

“当一种激素从体内被移除时,可能会产生初步影响,但通常——经常——发生的情况是另一个激素系统会增加以进行补偿,”他说。“因此,当你向系统中添加大量 GLP-1 时,在我看来,其他生化系统可能会产生干扰或调整,从而产生有害影响。”

他认为,对于肥胖或糖尿病患者来说,潜在风险是合理的。但对于其他人则不然。当佩德森在英属哥伦比亚大学首次遇到布朗时

在胰腺中,GIP 和 GLP-1 触发胰岛素释放,从而降低血糖

GIP 由小肠上部的 K 细胞产生,而 GLP-1 则来自小肠下部的 L 细胞

图表:Hannah Schuller

在大脑中,

受体受到

这些激素的

刺激,从而降低

食欲并

增加

饱腹感

GIP

传输至脂肪、

组织和

骨细胞

GLP-1 传输至胃部,减缓食物排空,并传输至心脏

在 1967年,与癌症、小儿麻痹症或麻疹相比,肥胖是一个次要问题。从那时起,糖尿病和肥胖已演变成流行病,而当制药公司寻求科学解决方案时,他们将目光集中在了 GIP 和 GLP-1 上。

减肥

药物模拟这些

效果,且在体内的

持续时间比

原始

激素长得多

起初,诺和诺德(Novo Nordisk)的糖尿病药物 Ozempic 及其减肥克隆药 Wegovy 处于领先地位。这家制药公司如此强大,以至于经济学家不得不将其营收从丹麦的 GDP 数据中分离出来,以避免给该国经济留下误导性的印象。

Wegovy 模拟 GLP-1,但已被 Mounjaro 所掩盖,后者同时模拟 GIP 和 GLP-1,在控制食欲方面更为有效。它将其制造商礼来公司(Eli Lilly)变成了一家价值 $1tn 的制药巨头。

Pederson 不是一个富有的人,尽管他的退休生活一直很舒适——他修复老式汽车、卡车和摩托车,并自豪地展示照片。他仍然是英属哥伦比亚大学的名誉教授。

为什么 Pederson 认为很少有人记得 GIP?“GIP 在某种程度上被淡化部分原因是 John 树敌过多,” 说。“他就是那种容易让人反感的人。”

从见到 Brown 的那一刻起就喜欢他。当时 27岁,在教授高中生物后开始攻读硕士学位。Brown 35岁,是来自达勒姆郡(County Durham)克鲁克(Crook)的一个矿工之子,拥有纽卡斯尔大学的胃肠生理学博士学位。

“他是个强势的人,我从一开始就喜欢他,” 说。“当时大学里普遍的态度是,如果你是个初级人员,就得安分守己,闭嘴。”但 Brown 不愿在 20 世纪 60 年代初等级森严的英国大学体系中“卑躬屈膝”,于是加入了逃离英国的学术人才流失潮。为什么他必须等待 15 年才能拥有自己的实验室?

“他会直接冲到院长办公室大吵大闹,” 说——而且他得到了想要的东西。 GIP 成为了 Brown 的博士生,而他的导师“把我当成平等的人对待——但他也要求大量工作。我们的目标不仅是发表论文,而是真正做一些有意义的事情。”

那件有意义的事情就是研究人类肠道。到 20 世纪 60 年代,科学家们已经发现,如果有人食用葡萄糖,身体产生的胰岛素量远高于通过静脉滴注给予葡萄糖的情况。科学家推测可能有一种控制食欲的激素,并将其称为促胰岛素分泌肽(incretin)。

Brown 和 GIP 当时只有低端工具。研究团队没有能力将物质纯化到足以进行妥善研究的程度。寻找新技术的地点是瑞典:Brown 前往卡罗林斯卡学院(Karolinska Institute)与 Viktor Mutt 合作。Mutt 开创了提取肠肽的技术。Brown 在瑞典度过了一年,纯化了来自猪肠的提取物并将样本寄往温哥华。 GIP 在狗和豚鼠身上检查了这些提取物的效果,并证明其纯化提取物是一种新激素。这一结果成为了他 1970年的博士论文,并引起了其他研究人员的兴趣。

并不是因为这个领域的人数很多。“在 20 世纪 70 年代初,我们会举行国际会议,现场大约有 30 人,”佩德森说。“[约翰]总是处于中心位置,而且有点让每个人都反感。他会在会议上站起来说‘你们全在胡扯’。在很多方面,他不明白这个系统是如何运作的。”

布朗性格中这种粗鲁的一面与他的热情和积极相伴。“他像磁铁一样吸引着人们,”他说。布朗在门上贴了一块牌子:“如果我要被机器人取代,那它得先学会怎么喝酒。”

“我们一周都会工作,但我们的实验室在周五下午就是派对中心,”他说。

蒂姆·基弗教授(Professor Tim Kieffer,上方),曾与雷·佩德森和乔尔·哈本纳共同工作。

延斯·尤尔·霍尔斯特博士(Dr Jens Juul Holst,上方),在 2025 年领取生命科学突破奖。

“[约翰]会用液氮瓶装一大壶实验室酒精,然后我们调制鸡尾酒。所以那里到处都是放射性物质,而我们就坐在那里抽烟喝酒。”

也许这种在克鲁克煤矿阴影下锻造的幽默感,无法在温文尔雅的斯堪的纳维亚和加利福尼亚研究人员之间产生共鸣。有些人“认识约翰,他们会反击他”。但很多人并不如此。激素研究领域开始形成阵营。

布朗和佩德森知道他们

“科学界存在着一种政治潜流。这里有竞争,有自负,还有权力”

📄 外文原文 ↗

发现了一种激素,但并不清楚它的作用。另一位加拿大人约翰·杜普雷(John Dupre)建议这可能是传说中的肠促胰岛素(incretin hormone),在 20 世纪 70 年代,他们证明了 GIP 能刺激胰岛素的产生。

他们证明了身体在进食后如何告知你已经饱了。但随后又花了 40 年时间才研究出如何制造一种能实现相同效果的药物。不过当时仍存在一个缺口——GIP 无法完全解释身体产生的胰岛素数量。

到 20 世纪 80 年代初,技术已经取得了进步——特别是 DNA 测序,在马萨诸塞州总医院与内分泌学家乔尔·哈贝纳(Joel Habener)合作的研究人员利用该技术鉴定出了一个基因,他们发现该基因会产生尚未被分离出来的激素。他们将其中 1 种命名为 GLP-1。

雷·佩德森(Ray Pederson)

效果较差。GLP-1 成为了焦点。佩德森认为,这并不是 被忽视的唯一原因。向佩德森提到那位丹麦人时,他表现出了一些冷淡。“科学界存在着一种政治潜流,这种情况随处可见,”他说,“有自负,有竞争,有权力。我在职业生涯中感受到了这一点,虽然没有受到极大影响,但确实受到了影响,因为我根本不准备参与到许多这类毫无意义的权力之争中。”

随后,丹麦医学博士延斯·尤尔·霍尔斯特(Jens Juul Holst)对 -1 做了布朗、佩德森和杜普雷对 所做的工作,并证明了 -1 能刺激猪肠道产生胰岛素。

2 种激素,各自发挥着相似的作用。哪一个更重要?关键时刻出现在 1993 年,在维尔纳·克罗伊茨费尔特(Werner Creutzfeldt)领导下,德国的一个团队对比了这两种激素在 9 名 2 型糖尿病患者身上的效果。

虽然佩德森在领取学术养老金后享受着退休生活,但霍尔斯特获得了更多的赞誉。这位丹麦人与哈贝纳以及另外三人共同获得了 2025 年的生命科学突破奖。从 2010 年到 2020 年,他担任哥本哈根大学诺和诺德基金会基础代谢研究中心的科学主任,当时该公司正将 -1 研究转化为糖尿病药物,从而研发出了 Ozempic,随后是 Wegovy。

霍尔斯特在《-1 故事》(The Story of -1)一书中简要提到了布朗,而完全没有提到佩德森。(霍尔斯特未就本报道提供评论。)

这两个人最后一次见面是在 2015 年。蒂姆·基弗(Tim Kieffer)曾是佩德森的第一位博士生,他组织了一场会议以纪念 发现的历史。基弗曾在哈贝纳的实验室工作过一段时间。“我可能是唯一 1 个先后在 发现者和 -1 发现者指导下接受培训的人,”他说。

基弗认为哪种激素最重要?他说,哈贝纳会说是 -1。每毫克 -1 产生的胰岛素比 更多。但在进食后,身体仅产生少量的 -1,而 则剧增。

为了这次会议,基弗委托佩德森和霍尔斯特分别为《糖尿病研究杂志》(Journal of Diabetes Investigation)撰写关于 发现的记录。佩德森的版本包含了一些参与者;而霍尔斯特则在 和 -1 之间进行了不那么客观的对比,这激怒了他的对手。此时布朗已病重,并于 2016 年去世。

时事通讯

詹姆斯·塔珀(James Tapper)的科学观察

当佩德森看到礼来公司(Eli Lilly)凭借一种模拟 -1 和 的药物获得惊人利润时——仅在 2025 年,Mounjaro 的销售额就达到了 230亿美元 ——他是否会想,自己本可以走另一条路?

“当你看到一种你参与研发的药物赚了数十亿加元时,你会觉得如果能分到一杯羹就好了。但这并不是一件让人执迷不悟的事情……

将《观察者报》的最佳内容直接发送到您的收件箱

“按照今天的标准,我们当时使用的是相当原始的工具,但我们还是成功发现了一种激素。当我翻开生理学教科书时,它就在那里,这让我感到自豪。”

他还为自己在糖尿病研究方面的工作感到自豪,这项研究促成了 DPP-4 类药物的出现,使糖尿病患者的生活变得轻松许多。

即便是在工作的最后一周,他依然在实验室的操作台前。“我热爱科学,而实验室就是我想在的地方,”他说。布朗确实在另一个领域创办了一家生物技术公司,但佩德森觉得这并没有让他的导师感到高兴:“我认为他发现金钱仅仅是金钱而已。”

由 Invest for the Future 赞助

储蓄是一个良好的开端。接下来该做什么?

📄 外文原文 ↗

由于住房成本和每月账单占据了人们收入的大部分,每月能简单地省下一点钱就可能让人觉得是一项重大成就。

无论你关注什么。

为未来一年的财务做好准备

📄 外文原文 ↗

现金储蓄在帮助人们获得更强的财务安全感方面发挥着重要作用。在现金储蓄账户中留有资金可以帮助你应对意外的账单或支出,例如锅炉损坏、汽车维修,或者当你发现自己失业时。

但你对省下的这些钱有长期计划吗?也许是为了给自己提供退休保障,或者是为了在孩子们成长过程中给予他们帮助?

投资可以通过让你的资金实现长期增长来帮助你达成这些目标。即使每月只存入少量资金,随着时间的推移,也可能成长为一笔可观的养老金。储蓄和投资并不需要是“二选一”的关系。

你已经是投资者了吗?

📄 外文原文 ↗

你可能不认为自己是一名投资者,而你并不孤单。根据行业机构投资协会(Investment Association)最近的一份 ISA 指标报告,仅有 36% 的英国成年人同意“投资适合像我这样的人”这一说法。

你可能会将投资与那些拥有广泛金融知识和大量可支配资金的富裕专业人士联系在一起。但事实上,情况远非如此。

“现在超过 8 位 10 名从业人员在缴纳职场养老金,这意味着投资已经成为大多数家庭日常财务生活的一部分,”投资协会首席执行官约翰·欧文(John Owen)表示。

不过,在养老金之外进行投资可能会让人觉得是一个更大的跨越,这很正常。“我们从巴克莱投资准备度(Barclays Investment Readiness)

'现金储蓄中的 1,000 英镑 在 20 年后其实际价值将为 £595,而如果将其投资,则为 1,216 英镑'

'有许多投资平台和账户允许你以低至 £1 的金额开始投资'

你不必成为专家也能获益。

📄 外文原文 ↗

“指标显示,认为投资过于复杂这一认知是非投资者的主要障碍之一,”未来投资运动(Invest for the Future Campaign)主席兼巴克莱私人银行与财富管理首席执行官萨莎·威金斯(Sasha Wiggins)表示。

投资如何帮助您实现目标?

📄 外文原文 ↗

“投资确实是长期的,”威金斯(Wiggins)表示,“无论是为了拥有住房还是为了舒适的退休生活,投资都能帮助实现这些财务目标。”

人们开始投资的方式多种多样,这并不一定意味着要亲自挑选股票和股份。一些平台会提供现成的投资组合,因此您甚至不需要自行选择投资项目。

如果您每月在现金账户中存钱,其中一部分资金可能存放在现金个人储蓄账户(Cash ISA)中,这意味着您赚取的任何利息都是免税的。

但英国储蓄者还可以选择股票及股份个人储蓄账户(Stocks and Shares ISA)。通过股票及股份 ,您可以投资资金,而无需为投资的任何潜在增长支付英国税款。

与在现金储蓄账户中赚取利息相比,投资具有更高的长期增长潜力,尽管在短期内您的资金可能会出现波动。

“对投资的起伏感到紧张是很自然的,但重要的是要记住,投资是一项长期承诺,”欧文(Owen)说,“关键在于考虑您何时需要这笔钱,投资时间越长,资金增长的时间就越多。”事实上,人们持有股票及股份 的首要原因是他们认为投资将比现金 提供更好的长期回报,在《 晴雨表》报告中,$54\%$ 的持有者对此表示认同。

约 51% 的股票及股份 投资者表示,他们的目标是为退休储蓄,这凸显了投资如何成为长期财务规划的一部分。

由“为未来投资”(INVEST FOR THE FUTURE)为您提供

巴克莱银行最近一份名为《不投资的错失机会》的报告发现,从 2004 年到 2024 年,在考虑通货膨胀影响后,存放在平均现金储蓄账户中的资金价值将下降 40.5%——即使包括这些现金储蓄所支付的利息在内。

相比之下,威金斯解释说,资金如果“投资于一个由英国资产组成的多元化投资组合,其价值将增长 20% 以上”——即使在扣除 0.8% 的典型费用之后。

“供应商提供多元化基金,投资于不同的公司、国家或资产类型以分散风险”

📄 外文原文 ↗

这意味着,20 年后,现金储蓄中的 1,000 英镑 在实际价值上将变为 £595,而如果将其投资,则将变为 1,216 英镑。

开始投资不需要很多钱

📄 外文原文 ↗

投资并非富人的专利,也不意味着必须投入一大笔资金。您不需要财务顾问即可开始,尽管有些人可能在做出任何投资决定之前希望获得顾问的指导。

您可以投入一笔资金开始,或者设置定期付款(例如每月 £50),随着时间的推移逐步增加您的投资。

根据投资协会(Investment Association)的数据,五分之一(21%)的英国成年人表示,他们可能会在 2026 年开始每月 £10 到 £50 的小额定期投资。

少量且频繁投资的好处是,您可以在感到更舒适且熟悉投资的情况下从小额开始——特别是如果您以前从未认为投资适用于您自己的话。

即使从小额开始,随着时间的推移,复利也具有潜在的影响。如果您的投资产生回报且这些回报被重新投资,它们就有机会进一步增长。

举例来说,根据投资协会的计算,如果您在五年内(直到 2025 年底)每月向一个典型的全球股票基金投资 £50,其价值将达到 3,906 英镑。这比将资金存放在银行现金账户中多出 £900。

决定最适合您的下一步

📄 外文原文 ↗

如果您仍然觉得投资很陌生,无需立即做出决定。在建立起应急基金后,您的第一步可能仅仅是进一步了解投资与储蓄有何不同,以及投资是否适合您自己的生活目标。

“为未来投资”(Invest for the Future)是一项由 20 家领先的银行和投资公司共同发起的倡议,旨在为那些有储蓄习惯但目前尚未投资的人群提供信息。其目标是让投资变得更容易理解,并帮助人们探索投资是否可以在其长期财务规划中占据一席之地。

威金斯(Wiggins)简单地将其表述为:“这次活动并不是要告诉人们应该如何处理他们的资金,而是为了帮助人们获得更多信息,增强信心,并更好地具备相关能力,以了解投资是否能在帮助他们实现长期财务目标方面发挥作用。”

您最终可能会决定投资目前并不适合您。或者,您可能会决定,为了退休或在经济上帮助子女等长期目标而定期存入小额资金是值得探索的。

搜索“采取下一步,投资”(Take the Next Step. Invest.),以找到最适合您的下一步。

第一人称

拉努夫·费恩斯带我进行了一场全球冒险。很难想象他会处于“孤立”状态

📄 外文原文 ↗

随着人们对这位资深探险家福祉的担忧日益增加,吉尔斯·惠特尔回忆起这场跨越七大洲、为期七天的马拉松挑战之旅中的快乐时光。

首先是家人,然后是朋友,接着是皇室,最后是警方。在这次已演变为全国性搜寻英国最著名的在世探险家的行动中,担忧者的名单很长。

患有帕金森病和认知障碍症的拉努夫·费恩斯(Ranulph Fiennes)被认为与他的第二任妻子路易丝·米林顿-科茨(Louise Millington-Cotes)一起住在英国某处的偏远农舍中,后者拥有决定其护理方案的法律授权书。

这座农舍可能是费恩斯居住了几十年的埃克斯穆尔(Exmoor)那座,但很少有人能确定,而很多人想知道。他已有两年没有在公开场合露面。

他的妻子与其关系疏远的儿子亚历山大·米林顿-科茨(Alexander Millington-Cotes)在听说费恩斯一直使用假名住在一系列护理院后联系了媒体。在一名威尔士护理提供者的提醒下,督查员得出结论,认为他被“非法剥夺了自由”。

想到兰·费恩斯被任何人剥夺自由,这令人不安且难以想象。我不能自称是他的密友,但在另一段人生经历中的两年时间里,我们因为他一个疯狂的计划而走到一起,而且我们似乎很投缘。

2003年春,费恩斯在心脏病发作后接受了胸腔切开的双侧搭桥手术。他将其归咎于在漫长的南极冬季为了维持热量摄入而食用整块黄油。

手术很成功,因此六个月后,接受他的朋友迈克·斯特劳德(Mike Stroud)博士的邀请,在七天内于七大洲跑七场马拉松,似乎顺理成章。他们这样做是为了给英国心脏基金会筹款;我代表《泰晤士报》随行,也为了体验这次旅程。

我们在希思罗机场的协和式客机休息室出发。罗杰·摩尔(Roger Moore)带着一小群随从走进来,费恩斯透露,在摩尔之前,他曾向阿尔伯特·布罗科利(Albert Broccoli)试镜詹姆斯·邦德这个角色。

费恩斯一直更像一个现实生活中的邦德。在接下来的10天里,我们试图驾驶螺旋桨飞机降落在南极但失败了,因为一架智利空军的 C-130“大力神”运输机不肯离开跑道。我们在号角角(Cape Horn)以南半小时航程处折返,并在飞往马尔维纳斯群岛(Falklands)的私人飞机上用鸡尾酒安慰自己,以便费恩斯和斯特劳德能在那里代替跑一场马拉松。

我们绕悉尼港跑了三圈长跑,并在新加坡潮湿闷热的天气中几乎停滞不前。“我们的肌肉真的在崩溃,”当时48岁的斯特劳德说,此时他已经在尿血,且远远落后于费恩斯(当时59岁)。

午夜时分,他在吉萨大金字塔受到了埃及旅游部长的欢迎,被誉为“和平使者”。好奇的祝愿者在通过温莎和伊顿的1908年伦敦奥运会马拉松路线上为他加油。

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吉尔斯·惠特尔与拉努夫·费恩斯(右)以及迈克·斯特劳德(左),2003年以时尚的方式离开马尔维纳斯群岛。泰晤士报有限公司

第七场马拉松是在纽约,费恩斯和斯特劳德与数万名其他选手一起奔跑。在跑过韦拉扎诺-纳罗斯桥(Verrazzano-Narrows bridge)五分钟后,我患上了偏头痛,但这一切都是值得的。英国航空(BA)是赞助商,我们每趟航班都乘坐商务舱或头等舱。

有一次,法恩斯的第一任妻子金妮打电话来询问他的近况。我接了电话并告诉她他状态不错。可惜她当时的情况并非如此。当整个计划结束,法恩斯回到他们共同经营的农场(那里还养着一群亚伯丁安格斯牛)与她团聚时,他立刻意识到出了问题。他们直接开车前往伦敦。金妮在第二天被诊断出患有胃癌,再也没有回到家中。

“生活现在成了一个巨大的、漆黑的虚无,”法恩斯事后告诉我,“现在我只想工作。”这在一定程度上解释了为什么几个月后,我们会在采尔马特附近一座 4,000 米高峰半山腰的意大利小屋里喝茶,为攀登珠峰做准备。他说他想克服恐高症。而我则在想,他是否想将自己的心脏推向极限,甚至超越极限。

“朋友们告诉我,时间的流逝会有所帮助,”他说,“他们可能是对的,但时间还没有对我产生魔力。”

法恩斯在次年春天出发前往尼泊尔之前与米灵顿-科茨结婚。她表示不希望被采访,因此在撰写此报道时我没有联系她,但我曾在 2005 年在丽兹酒店的茶室见过他们,讨论关于珠峰的事。可以公平地说,米灵顿-科茨当时已经对他保护得极其周到了。她希望确保关于这次探险的报道是积极的。我放弃了职业上的超然态度,尽力让她安心。

最终我没有去。一位优秀的作家去了,她写下了关于男人在西藏死亡地带进行自虐行为的幽默记录。

二十年过去了,柴郡警方表示,他们认为法恩斯处于合适的环境中,并得到了适当的照顾。但据称,国王曾尝试写信给他,却遭到了拒绝。同行探险家安东·鲍林因将她丈夫的联系方式交给白金汉宫而受到了米灵顿-科茨的责备。

上周,金妮的姐姐告诉 ITV,法恩斯显而易见的孤立状态“令人心碎,对他以及对我们来说都是如此,因为我们想见他,给他带 Toblerone 巧克力和玛氏巧克力棒,以此振作他的精神”。

作为一个在每次与他相遇时都获得太多乐趣的卑微写作者,我只能说:坚持住,兰,谢谢你提供的所有升级服务。

和牛薯片?这对日本的当日牛肉来说是一场高风险赌博

📄 外文原文 ↗

帕特里克·基德 (Patrick Kidd)

在销售高端薯片时,高端的形容词至关重要。因此,当 Co-op 为圣诞市场寻找零食时,简单的“牛肉”是不够的。今年的牛肉是和牛,这种昂贵的日本品种。或者是“熟和牛牛肉粉”,它是排在红椒粉和烟熏麦芽糊精之前的倒数第二个成分。你指望 £1.75 能买到什么?

在好的肉铺,一份和牛菲力牛排可能要花费你 £100,但这个品牌正以极低的价格进入主流市场。汉堡王销售的和牛汉堡售价为 £8.99。

这个品种直到 20 世纪 70 年代才离开日本,并因传闻中对牛的精心呵护而引起关注。近年来,英国对该产品的兴趣激增。In 2023 35,000 头和牛血统的小牛在这里诞生,比 2014 年增加了 $1,378\%$。

这种肉在低端市场变得如此普及,以至于一些英国生产商热衷于宣传其牛群舒适的生活方式,因为这会影响口感和价格。来自西萨塞克斯郡 Trenchmore 农场的安德鲁·诺尔斯 (Andrew Knowles) 表示,他的牛群是夏季在田间放牧的哺乳牛。自 2013, 以来,他一直将和牛与萨塞克斯牛和安格斯牛杂交,旨在供应餐厅。“如果和牛市场出现供应过剩,它所能获得的溢价将面临消失的风险,”他说道。

一份大理石纹和牛菲力牛排在好的肉铺可能需要 £100。

其他人现在则在避开这种牛肉。伦敦肉铺 Farmer Tom Jones 的亚历克斯·基斯 (Alex Keys) 警告说,它已经变得无处不在。“那种脂肪大理石纹在 Instagram 上看起来很美,但如果人体长成那样,意味着会出现各种健康问题。”

该企业更倾向于经营那些受到大量关爱的本土品种。“关键不在于牛,而在于如何养,”基斯说。“我们在诺森伯兰郡有一位生产商,他将牛养在户外,喂食由 25 种植物组成的青贮饲料混合物,味道极佳。”

在他所在的汤布里奇选区田野中,影子外交大臣向瑞秋·西尔维斯特 (Rachel Sylvester) 讲述了他对中国的担忧以及他对凯米·巴德诺克 (Kemi Badenoch) 的支持,以及为什么工党在关于英国的“极右翼怀旧愿景”上是错误的。

《观察者报》漫步 汤姆·图根哈特 (Tom Tugendhat)

📄 外文原文 ↗

ELLIE WINTOUR 绘制地图

“我妻子曾答应给我买一只拉布拉多。现在我才发现它们是法西斯”

📄 外文原文 ↗

当汤姆·图根哈特(Tom Tugendhat)会见外国外交官或显贵时,

他会带他们去散步。大多数政治人物都有心仪的午餐地点;而这位外交大臣影子大臣则有偏好的行走路线。“散步时的交谈方式截然不同,”他说,“我通常在圣詹姆斯公园(St James's Park)周围走走。我也花了很多时间在巴黎的公园和柏林的花园里散步。去年我和一位奥地利部长在维也纳散步。在伊拉克和阿富汗也有很多有趣的地方。我在也门进行过一些很棒的徒步。如果你走在人们身边,比面对面坐着更容易展开对话。”

我一直好奇这种习惯是否源于他的军事背景。图根哈特在进入政坛之前曾是英国陆军的一名情报官员。“我没这么想过,”在被问及是否在散步时进行秘密行动时,他避而不谈,“你是在诱导我走向我不打算走的路。”

据我所知,在我们穿过图根哈特所在的肯特郡汤布里奇(Tonbridge, Kent)选区田野的漫步过程中,并没有所谓的“死信箱”(dead drops)。我们在海弗(Hever)车站会合,然后向伊登布里奇(Edenbridge)出发。这位国会议员就住在附近。“这是我周日去教堂的路,”他说,“我发现这能让我的大脑清醒。”

我们穿过一道警告有母牛和小牛的门。一座被橡树环绕的啤酒花干燥房(oast house)映入眼帘。“肯特郡被称为‘英格兰花园’是有原因的,”图根哈特说,“这里是温啤酒和黑色拉布拉多之乡。”上周,一名工党部长将这两样东西列为英国“极右翼怀旧愿景”的象征,但这位外交大臣影子大臣认为它们所代表的文化令人感到慰藉。“它是温婉的,是真实的,是有家之感的,”他说,“我订婚时,妻子答应给我买一只拉布拉多,13年后,我们还是没买。现在我从一位部长那里得知,拉布拉多是法西斯。”

他当兵时的时光则没那么令人安心。图根哈特参加了两场战争——伊拉克战争和阿富汗战争,并曾“数次”险些丧命。有一次,当他在阿富汗赫尔曼德省省长担任顾问时,“一名自杀式袭击者冲进我的办公室,杀死了我的同事,并将整栋建筑炸得粉碎”。他之所以能幸存,是因为当时他刚好去了隔壁。“生活中有很多运气成分,”他说,“我被伊拉克人炸过,我的下巴被炸掉了一块。我们入侵了他们的国家,他们对此并不高兴。”

他精通五门语言,“并且大概能听懂另外几门语言的情况”。他的法语和意大利语“相当不错”。“我的阿拉伯语还可以。我以前可以用波斯语和普什图语工作。我学了一年日语,但没能真正掌握。我能听懂德语,荷兰语也能应付。”他在军队中学到且在政治中很有用的特质包括“自律以及不过分激动”。

我们跨入另一片田野,避开了新种的作物。图根哈特在8月被凯米·巴德诺克(Kemi Badenoch)任命为外交大臣影子大臣,这是旨在让保守党进入选举状态的内阁改组的一部分。在此之前,他并不计划参加保守党大会。现在

他将发表一次演讲。作为一名语言学家,他具备充分的资格,但他坚持认为:“这份工作的核心不是说语言——而是尝试从外国人那里获得最大利益,为英国服务。”他鄙视基于道德价值观的外交理念。“所谓的‘伦理外交政策’纯属垃圾,”他说,“它很空洞,因为事实是,另一个国家想要的和我们需要的是不同的东西。”

埃德·米利班德在宣布对约旦河西岸的非法以色列定居点实施制裁时,承诺要在全球范围内坚持“正确的事”。图根哈特并不买账。“他的政治完全是交易性的,”他说,“他试图在左翼联盟,即所谓的‘进步政党’内部达成协议。我认为真正的伦理是为英国人民挺身而出。每一个大使馆都是由英国纳税人出资的。所以你最好绝对确保你是在为他们争取最大利益。”

我们停在一棵蜜蜂在巢穴周围嗡嗡作响的树旁。图根哈特曾两次竞选保守党党魁,代表党内中间派的“一国保守主义”翼。他在社会议题上持自由主义观点,并在脱欧公投中投票支持留在欧盟。而巴德诺克则是一名坚定的脱欧派,她最近为保守党候选人引入了一项意识形态纯洁性测试,要求他们反对净零排放,并支持退出《欧洲人权公约》(ECHR)。

图根哈特对于重新回到前排领导层没有任何顾虑。“我回去了,因为我认为这很重要,”他一边说着,一边大步走过田野,“凯米正在展现这个国家所需要的领导力。我认为她做得非常好,我觉得我有责任帮助她。”

他很乐意接受保守党党魁的条件。“她并没有说她不相信气候变化。她只是说——而且我认为这是事实——一个国家的净零排放就像一个国家的社会主义。这很荒谬,行不通。你所做的只是让自己变得贫穷而毫无收获。”至于《欧洲人权公约》,“无论如何,其中大部分已经是英国法律了,所以你讨论的是它的应用,而不是其背后的原则,”图根哈特说,“我认为凯米所做的是一个完全正统的保守党主张。”

我们穿过一片小林地,沿着一条小溪行走。安迪·伯纳姆在党代会演讲中呼吁在社会护理和选举制度改革等问题上开展更多跨党派合作。“他是在玩一个古老的政治把戏,即声称这不是政治。然后抛出一个你必须同意的、极具争议的政治想法。当然,社会护理应该改革。但他的答案是将社会护理国有化,并让孩子们为此买单。”

摄影:汤姆·皮尔斯顿

事实上,首相正提议修改养老金“三重锁”机制,按照目前的利率计算,到下一个十年末,这将增加 110亿英镑 的成本。图根哈特去年将“三重锁”描述为“根本无法负担”。那么,他是同意伯纳姆而反对承诺保留养老金福利的巴德诺克吗?“我专注于外交政策,”他回答道,“我对很多事情有自己的看法,但如果你想加入一个团队,就必须确保你作为团队的一部分而工作。”

我们来到另一片耕作整齐的田野。一棵孤树庄严地伫立在中央。在一个不稳定的世界中,英国开始显得危险地孤立,与欧洲脱节,并被一个不可靠的美国所抛弃。图根哈特坚持认为,对唐纳德·特朗普持有某种透视感很重要。他说,认为“美国曾经是除此以外的其他样子”是一种幻觉。“美国是一个极其重要的合作伙伴,它通过自己的视角看待事物。我们这些曾在战斗中与美国人并肩作战的人对此非常清楚。美国基于美国自身的理由做出决定,我们可能同意,也可能不同意,但这就是规律。”

不过,特朗普似乎与之前的总统不同。他不尊重基于规则的世界秩序或国际机构,包括北约。他曾威胁要入侵格陵兰岛,支持爱尔兰统一,并质疑英国对福克兰群岛的主权。“他有自己表达方式,”图根哈特(Tugendhat)说道。“我不认为这有帮助……但我们必须与他合作。如果你愿意,你可以对美国总统无礼。然后你可以看着在英国的投资下降,我们的安全受到威胁,情报共享受损。或者你可以坦诚地说:‘任何关系中都有起伏。’”

一只红鸢在头顶盘旋。“不列颠之战纪念飞行队从比金希尔(Biggin Hill)飞过这里,”这位国会议员说。“看到猛禽和喷火战斗机在肯特郡的上空共舞,真是非同寻常。”图根哈特是一名对华强硬派,也是被北京制裁的国会议员之一。基尔·斯塔默在今年早些时候宣布制裁已被解除,但这位影子外交大臣尚未收到确认。“工党没有听斯塔默的——我不明白为什么习近平应该听,”他说。“我能去中国吗?我认为那将是非常不明智的。”

他说,毫无疑问,中国政府曾试图入侵他的电脑并恐吓他。“每隔一段时间,如果我做了什么让他们不快的事,我就会收到几封来自北京或上海的信,信里说着粗鲁的话。基本上就是:‘我们知道你住在哪里。’有时这些信是专人递送的,”他说。“我认为他们的行为表现出难以置信的敌意。”

他认为新冠病毒是由中国科学家创造的可能性很大。

[图片:汤姆·图根哈特在他所在的汤布里奇选区伊登布里奇郊外的田野中。]

“我毫不怀疑疫情始于武汉。我认为他们是故意这么做的吗?不。但我几乎可以肯定它来自那个实验室,”他说。“独裁政权建立在恐惧之上。所以没有人足够早地发出警告,而当他们发现发生了什么以及来源何处时,请求帮助并解决问题已经太晚了。随后便出现了一场大规模的掩盖。”

在他看来,来自北京的经济威胁同样巨大。“不必管他们是好是坏,是邪恶还是什么,”图根哈特说。“他们需要大规模出口,而他们能做到此点的唯一方法就是淹没其他所有国家的制造业体系。”

上周,军情五处(MI5)警告称,学术界参与了支持中国间谍活动的研究。图根哈特表示,真正的危险是“控制问题。谁在控制英国大学里所说的话?已经有些大学不愿谈论维吾尔族种族灭绝,或新疆(许多维吾尔族人居住的地区),或天安门广场。他们如此依赖中国留学生,以至于如果他们不适应——用他们的说法——或者用我的说法,保持沉默——这里的中国大使馆就会威胁他们,让他们招不到学生。”

他认为工党批准在伦敦金融城边缘建立一座新的中国大使馆是一个巨大的错误。“我们不应该开放它。政府直截了当地掩盖了一系列事情,而这些事情后来被政府承认了。政府曾说关于电缆的担忧完全是胡扯。但就在他们批准的那一刻,他们说:‘我们将不得不花费数百万英镑来移动电缆。’”

我们转向公路,走进伊登布里奇,这是一个充满中世纪建筑的漂亮集镇。这是一个典型的英国场景。肯特郡这条商业街的宁静与上个月底以捍卫英格兰之名聚集在多佛尔的反移民抗议者截然不同。当我们走向车站时,我询问图根哈特如何看待那些身穿黑衣、戴着巴拉克拉法帽(面罩)的男子。“我觉得这一切非常令人反感且错误,”他回答道。“这是在破坏我们作为一个社会的本质。这真的削弱了我们。”

他坚持认为,保守党必须与体面的大多数人保持一致。“肯特郡曾被朱特人殖民。我的母亲是法国人。我的妻子是法国人。我的祖母来自爱尔兰。我的名字源自奥地利。我们的领导人是凯米·巴德诺克。我们的前领导人是里希·苏纳克……这个国家是由各种不同的人民组成的。”

支持艾哈迈德。

支持巴勒斯坦

医疗保健。

无论需要多久。

作为一名 MAP 心理支持工作者,艾哈迈德帮助同胞巴勒斯坦人度过难以想象的苦难及其心理影响。他目睹了以色列军队多次拒绝巴勒斯坦人获得医疗服务,限制药品供应,并使人们在没有治疗的情况下被遗弃。

“当一名医疗工作者面对被针对的恐惧……但他们仍然回到岗位去帮助人们时,我认为这是一个奇迹。”

艾哈迈德,加沙 MAP 心理支持工作者

他见过巴勒斯坦医生和护士在最不可能的条件下提供护理。

艾哈迈德知道,支持巴勒斯坦医疗工作者至关重要,而且这种团结可以延续到子孙后代。

40 多年来, 一直与巴勒斯坦人站在一起——与当地社区合作,支持巴勒斯坦医疗工作者,并为未来建立更强大、由当地主导的医疗体系。

我们将继续与他们站在一起,无论需要多久。你愿意吗?

通过在遗嘱中捐赠,你的团结可以帮助塑造巴勒斯坦医疗保健的未来。一个巴勒斯坦医疗工作者能够通过更强大、由当地主导的服务提供护理的未来。一个巴勒斯坦人能够在整个生命周期中获得所需治疗、药物和支持的未来。

无论需要多久,请与巴勒斯坦人站在一起。在你的遗嘱中给 留一份捐赠,帮助加强未来由巴勒斯坦主导的医疗保健。

在遗嘱中给 留一份捐赠。

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📄 外文原文 ↗

“与可疑人物达成的阴暗交易”:美国邀请投资者协助重启委内瑞拉石油工业 $\rightarrow$ 黑色淘金热,第 27 页

康奈尔大学强奸指控原告在网络上“遭受围攻”,美国文化战争再次引发分歧

📄 外文原文 ↗

埃德·赫尔莫尔(Ed Helmore)写道,在保守派人士支持、学生谴责被指控袭击的七名男子的同时,数字侦探们正试图揭露其所谓的受害者的身份。

纽约康奈尔大学一名女学生被指遭七名兄弟会成员强奸的事件,再次撕开了美国的文化战争分歧,并重新引发了关于同意、网络审判和受害者有罪论的辩论。

一名20岁女性被指遭受长达数小时的袭击,而袭击者在社交媒体上吹嘘,并召集兄弟会成员加入。这一指控已走出常春藤盟校校园,登上了国际舞台。在美国,保守派评论员迅速站出来为被告辩护。

自从校园学生报纸《康奈尔每日太阳报》(The Cornell Daily Sun)上个月公布被告姓名以来,此案在社交媒体上引发了分歧。这些被称为“康奈尔七人组”的男子的照片被发布在网上。所有人都否认有任何不当行为,其中一些人辩称性行为是自愿的,至少两人否认有任何性接触。

受害者的律师托马斯·朱夫拉(Thomas Giuffra)周五告诉CNN:“她在社交媒体上遭受围攻,人们正试图确认她的身份。”

作为报复,网络侦探开始对仅被命名为“简·多伊”(Jane Doe)的受害者进行“人肉搜索”(doxxing),试图揭露她的真实身份。这引发了上周的一场社交媒体反击运动,数百名女学生发布“我就是简·多伊”,以掩护她的身份。

此案以及康奈尔大学对该指控的处理方式,引发了关于该大学存在“强奸文化问题”的指责。相关报道强调了过去的事件,包括一起涉嫌袭击事件,以及多起关于受害者在兄弟会派对上被下药的指控(发生在2022年),这导致大学暂停了所有兄弟会的社交活动。

研究发现,在美国大学中,高达27%的本科女性经历过非自愿的性接触或强奸。纽约一所大学的前负责人告诉《观察者报》,康奈尔大学的情况“非常典型”。

一名大三学生索菲亚·赖利·西姆(Sophia Riley Sim)在学生会会议上表示:“康奈尔大学由于缺乏问责制、透明度,以及未能解决目前康奈尔学生群体的状态,辜负了我们的社区。”

在上个月提交的一份长达101页的民事诉讼书中,简·多伊详细描述了她在2024年年底的一个晚上如何前往康奈尔大学Chi Phi兄弟会会馆拜访一名朋友。

“她是大二学生,而通常是大一新生,”他们说。“有那些他们崇拜的运动员,这些人怂恿他们喝酒,或者在这种情况下,服用氯胺酮。于是这个女孩醉得不知发生了什么。然后人们开始议论。情况很复杂。”

她声称,在已经醉到无法给出同意的程度时,她的朋友和一名兄弟会成员提议进行三人性行为。她说,他们给她喂了大麻和朗姆酒,并强迫她吸入一种据称是氯胺酮的白色粉末。

“这个女人被那些有义务保护她的人和机构辜负了”

纽约州州长凯西·霍楚尔(Kathy Hochul)

虽然网络上的争论激烈,但上周康奈尔大学校园内的气氛十分沉重。然而在一次学生集会上,对大学处理此案方式的积怨终于爆发。有报道称,大学最初允许被告男子提交“减轻行为影响的论文”,而不是进行刑事调查,这进一步激怒了其他学生。

在袭击发生过程中,第三名男子加入了其中。其中一名男子随后向一个名为“Chi Phi Actives”的群聊发送消息,告诉成员们兄弟会会馆里有“免费的女人”。随后,有人问:“店还开着吗?”另一个人用一个恶魔表情回复道:“是的”,随后补充道:“兄弟们快来大干一场。”

一个人发帖称:“我真他妈爱Chi Phi。”

她在一个在线论坛上看到其他学生将该事件讨论为强奸。

最初由《纽约时报》报道的原始调查记录揭示了该女性对此次事件最初的尴尬情绪是如何演变为认定自己遭到袭击的。她曾与其中一些男性交换过友好的短信。当其中一人为当晚的情况“完全失控”而道歉时,她安慰对方说“性方面的内容(原文如此)并非非法”。

警方拒绝提起指控,理由是该女性的陈述“将其参与药物使用和性行为描述为自愿、清醒且经同意的”。

朋友们表示,简·多伊(Jane Doe)当时处于“震惊”状态,并且“没有意识到她所说的话的严重性”,直到

“那是我第一次听到说法发生了变化,即我不是个妓女,而是遭到了袭击,”她告诉调查人员。

汤普金斯县地区检察官马修·范·豪滕(Matthew Van Houten)上周辩称,他的办公室在当时并未收到群聊信息。最新的披露导致警方与康奈尔大学的官员之间再次陷入相互指责。

“很明显,大学没有向我们提供完整的情况,”范·豪滕说。

面对日益增长的愤怒,纽约州州长凯西·霍楚尔(Kathy Hochul)上周任命州总检察长莱蒂西亚·詹姆斯(Letitia James)为特别检察官,重新启动该刑事案件。下个月将竞选连任的霍楚尔表示,在了解到当局处理该女性主张的“令人不安的细节”后,她决定采取行动。

“这名女性已经忍受了某种完全无法言说的痛苦,而随后在每一个转折点上,那些有义务保护她的人和机构都让她失望了,”霍楚尔说。

霍楚尔誓言要堵住纽约强奸法中的“自愿醉酒漏洞”。但此案引发了右翼评论员以及所谓的“男性圈”(manosphere)的反弹,后者是一个推广男性气概和厌女情绪的在线影响力者和聊天论坛网络。

“她说她对此没意见,直到她突然觉得有意见了,”保守派播客主持人克莱·特拉维斯(Clay Travis)上周在节目中表示。“这是一个追溯性的强奸指控。”

詹姆斯曾在2022年对唐纳德·特朗普及其家人提起欺诈诉讼,她的介入足以激怒总统在周五加入这场辩论。特朗普谴责该检察官是一个“腐败的人”,并暗示被詹姆斯调查的学生们“无法获得公正对待”。

“我对她调查的任何人感到遗憾,”总统在白宫外告诉记者,尽管他承认对该案知之甚少。

“康奈尔是一所优秀的学校,我相信他们会做出正确的决定,”他补充道。

上方为康奈尔大学的学生;简·翁(Jane Wung)和索菲亚·赖利·西姆(Sophia Riley Sim)本周在一次学生集会上讨论校园内的性暴力。Matt Rourke / AP

每天,桑托什(Santosh)和他的骆驼米图尔(Mitul)在尘土和酷热中前行,拉着一车砖块去盖房子。

天热时他们不停步。货物沉重时他们不停步。他们共同前行,承担着社区中最关键的工作之一。

在世界各地,数以亿计的工作动物承担着叉车、卡车、出租车、救护车和校车的职责。但它们所需的医疗护理往往难以获得。

我们与所有者、社区及合作伙伴共同努力以改变这一现状。从细小的事情做起,

例如将用于控制骆驼的木制鼻栓更换为塑料替代品,这样更安全,且不易引起不适、感染或受伤。

因为每只工作动物都值得拥有健康且有价值的生活。

了解我们如何改善工作动物的福利,以及您如何参与其中。

访问:workinganimals.org

国际工作动物组织(Working Animals International)。

英格兰和威尔士注册慈善机构 209015

一座石油钻井平台位于委内瑞拉最大的湖泊——马拉开波湖,在卡比马斯市的一条住宅街道尽头清晰可见。

Gaby Oraa / Bloomberg

石油巨头齐聚分羹,特朗普在争夺委内瑞拉财富的混战中掌控全局

📄 外文原文 ↗

一场“黑金热”正吸引着企业家和独立钻探者涌向加拉加斯,渴望开发该国由美国控制的庞大储量

Thomas Graham

加拉加斯

上周,在加拉加斯的高尔夫球场和牛排馆里,气氛就像回到了过去。

“委内瑞拉是现在最值得去的地方,”卡塔尔公司 UCC Oil and Gas Holding 的董事埃里克·凯斯库拉(Erik Keskula)在观察委内瑞拉首都万豪酒店内兴奋的人群时说道。

“我们来这里是为了赚钱,”他继续说道,随后补充道:“但我们也希望尝试改善我们经营所在的地方。”

凯斯库拉是数百名飞往委内瑞拉的石油高管之一,他们参加了自唐纳德·特朗普政府在1月份抓捕该国领导人尼古拉斯·马杜罗(Nicolás Maduro)以来的首场大型油气会议。随着白宫将委内瑞拉变成一个事实上的附庸国并掌控其庞大的石油储量,一场新的“淘金热”降临在加拉加斯。

万豪酒店已成为一个非正式的美国大使馆,也是这些新勘探者达成交易的中心。来自全球石油巨头的高管们与委内瑞拉曾经庞大的石油工业的幸存者以及独立钻探者们混在一起,寻找能够让他们发财的高风险赌注。

“我们为委内瑞拉聘请了一位首席执行官,”凯斯库拉说。“他问我对什么感兴趣,我直接回答‘是的’。我们对所有这一切都感兴趣。”

但在代表们期待的情绪以及关于合同和交易的议论中,没有人怀疑谁才是掌控者。

“谈判中总有给予和索取,”一名来自马拉开波市(Maracaibo,曾是委内瑞拉石油工业的引擎)的与会者说道。“而美国人索取多于给予,”他笑着补充道。

特朗普沉浸在他在委内瑞拉行动的成功之中,在那次行动中,马杜罗及其妻子在一次由美国特种部队发起的黎明前突袭中被抓获。总统多次吹嘘他掌控该国 3000 亿桶证实石油储量的“历史性”交易,并在椭圆形办公室中展示来自委内瑞拉的金条。

“胜利者拥有战利品,”总统在会议前一周向联合国大会发表讲话时得意地说道。

在纽约的听众中包括马杜罗的副总统德尔西·罗德里格斯(Delcy Rodríguez),她用美国对委内瑞拉自然资源的控制换取了她自身以及她目前领导的政权的政治生存。为了强调自己的观点,特朗普提醒罗德里格斯和其他世界领导人,华盛顿拥有“无与伦比的军事力量”。

当高管们在万豪酒店就座时,美国驻加拉加斯大使馆副馆长迈克尔·加西亚(Michael García)采取了更为外交的语气。他强调了白宫在最终举行选举前稳定委内瑞拉经济的计划,并赞扬了委内瑞拉与美国公司“重新产生的谈判意愿”。

“方向是明确的,”他说。“曾经停滞不前的地方,现在有了投资。而曾经由外国对手持有委内瑞拉未来租赁权的地方,现在美国和委内瑞拉公司正共同驶向那个未来。”

这有些夸大其词了。少数几家石油巨头已经宣布达成协议,包括将投资 70亿美元 以使其在委内瑞拉的当前产量翻倍的雪佛龙(Chevron),以及签署合同在奥里诺科带(Orinoco belt)经营一个巨型油田的意大利巨头埃尼(Eni)。

但其他人仍犹豫是否要向一个国家投入数十亿美元,因为在某些情况下,该国仍欠他们 2007, 的类似金额——当时委内瑞拉前领导人、左翼激进分子雨果·查韦斯(Hugo Chávez)将石油工业国有化,并剥夺了外国公司对其项目的控制权。那些拒绝持有少数股权的公司被驱逐出境。

尽管万豪酒店里关于交易的传闻不断,但未来的技术挑战依然巨大。专家估计,要将委内瑞拉的石油产量从目前的每天约100万桶恢复到鼎盛时期的300万桶,可能需要耗资超过1000亿美元,并花费十年时间。

经过多年的管理不善和美国制裁,加上6月份发生的毁灭性地震,基础设施已成废墟。在加拉加斯以外的地区,该国大部分地区每天要忍受长达八小时的停电。

德尔西·罗德里格斯(Delcy Rodriguez),委内瑞拉代理总统,在联合国大会上。

为了启动新投资,特朗普政府在8月底宣布与北美蓝色能源伙伴公司(North American Blue Energy Partners,简称Nabep)达成一项巨额协议,后者是一家委内瑞拉私营石油公司。Nabep由亚历杭德罗·贝坦库尔(Alejandro Betancourt)经营,他是一位年轻的石油大亨和亿万富翁,目前居住在英国,正在对抗引渡

“谈判中总有取舍——而美国人拿走的多于给予” 委内瑞拉代表

📄 外文原文 ↗

前往瑞士,并因涉嫌在多个国家洗钱而接受调查。他否认有任何不当行为,且从未被判定犯罪。

根据白宫宣布的协议,五角大楼持有 Nabep 35% 的股份,而 Nabep 则与委内瑞拉签署了一项为期 100 年的协议,旨在开发 17 个油田,这些油田拥有 650 亿桶石油。美国国务院将能够以生产成本购买其中 20% 的石油,该价格远低于市场价。

“特朗普希望这件事能快速实现,”常驻加拉加斯的危机组织(Crisis Group)分析师菲尔·冈森(Phil Gunson)表示。“因此,他的政府认定,他们可以通过一项相当——至少可以说——可疑的交易,与一个可疑的人物来启动这一进程。”

委内瑞拉法律不允许特许权超过 25 年,但在加拉加斯这个新的“无法之地”中,这似乎无关紧要。

“那项交易完全是非法的,”在会议上的一位不愿透露姓名的委内瑞拉高管表示。绑架马杜罗“只是特朗普政府控制该国计划中的冰山一角”。他补充道:“我们成了美国的保护国。”

在万豪酒店舞台上发言的人员包括亨特·亨特(Hunter Hunt),他是亨特能源公司(Hunt Energy)的德克萨斯州首席执行官,这是一家在也门和伊拉克等高风险市场运营的家族石油公司。

“正如我父亲常说的,一项交易除非对双方都有利,否则就不是一项好交易,”亨特说。“因为[如果不是这样],早晚会有人回到谈判桌前说这行不通。”

委内瑞拉人只能听信他的话。到目前为止,关于签署的任何协议,公开的信息都很少。在特朗普政府和石油巨头瓜分这个国家的同时,一些知名度较低的公司也在寻求分一杯羹。

“这些交易是在闭门状态下谈判的,条款通常不公开,”冈森说。

委内瑞拉石油工业复兴的最大风险是舞台上的主持人不愿讨论的问题:政治。今天签署的每一项协议都建立在特朗普与罗德里格斯之间不稳定的协议之上。随着民主党被看好在下个月的美国中期选举中夺回国会控制权,且特朗普将在两年后离开白宫,新的委内瑞拉政策在多大程度上能在他离任后延续仍不确定。

特朗普支撑马杜罗政权残余势力的举动并不受欢迎。许多委内瑞拉人渴望举行选举,而受欢迎的反对派领导人玛丽亚·科里纳·马查多(María Corina Machado)已经对与罗德里格斯签署的协议的合法性提出了质疑。

“他们一直在谈论改变,”一名来自委内瑞拉国家石油公司的前工程师说。“但我们想要的改变是这个政府下台。”

在外面,送货司机们看着石油高管们被匆匆送往下一个会议。一位名叫拉斐尔的人说,自一月份以来,普通委内瑞拉人的生活没有任何改善。

“但如果他们计划中的内容哪怕只有 10% 能实现,”他补充道,“也许我们能再次成为一个富有的国家。”

普京的非洲新兵:被诱骗参加俄罗斯战争的肯尼亚人

📄 外文原文 ↗

随着乌克兰冲突接近第六个冬天,数百名原以为将从事文职工作的年轻人发现自己身处战场。弗朗西斯科·加西亚(Francisco Garcia)报道

起初,斯蒂芬(Stephen)看起来并不是一个话很多的消息来源。这名三十出头的肯尼亚男子最近刚从乌克兰东部的战场返回。在他位于内罗比的家中客厅里,后墙上挂着一系列相框,其中一张是他与年幼女儿灿烂笑容的合影。但最引人注目的是一张斯蒂芬 19 岁时身着军装的褪色照片。那是他作为肯尼亚空军成员毕业的那一天。

在服役十年后,斯蒂芬(化名)于 2020 年代初离职,开始销售汽车零部件。生意一直不错,直到去年,在肯尼亚 2024 年 Z 世代抗议活动引发的一波动荡中,他的店面被洗劫。斯蒂芬说:“我不得不重新开始。[其中一个机会]来得最快,所以我接受了。”网上出现了一则广告,提供在俄罗斯从事高薪保安工作。广告称将提供丰厚的签约奖金,月薪折合约为 3,000 英镑。

几周后,斯蒂芬来到了沃夫昌斯克(Vovchansk),这是乌克兰东北部一座几乎被摧毁的小镇。斯蒂芬知道,“[这]就是战争”。但没有任何准备能让他面对如此规模的血腥杀戮,以及时刻监视他一举一动的无人机发出的尖锐鸣叫声。

几周后,斯蒂芬触发了一枚地雷,导致身体右侧严重受创。他遭受了深层的弹片伤,且胸壁与肺部之间出现内出血。今年年初,他在圣彼得堡休病假期间制定了一套逃跑计划。在联系了肯尼亚大使馆的一位友好人员后,他通过自己的工资支付费用,安排了一趟回国航班。

在过去一年中,斯蒂芬是数百名肯尼亚人——以及数千名其他非洲人——前往参加弗拉基米尔·普京战争的人员之一。有些人是自愿前往的,而另一些人则被文职工作的承诺所误导。

自愿与被骗之间的界限往往很模糊。肯尼亚国家情报局估计,有 1,000 多名肯尼亚国民前往乌克兰为俄罗斯而战。其中数十人已死亡。更多的人被关押在乌克兰的战俘营中,短期内几乎没有回国希望。少数像斯蒂芬这样的人回到了家乡,讲述他们的经历。

随着乌克兰战争接近第六个冬天,俄罗斯估计每月损失 30,000 名士兵,双方都日益依赖外国战士来填补武装力量的缺口。这些人大多来自贫困国家。超过 7,000 名哥伦比亚人加入了乌克兰的战争努力,可能还有 2,000 人作为雇佣兵在俄罗斯一方作战。

来自前苏联加盟共和国的数千名人员以及来自朝鲜的稳定人流,进一步充实了俄罗斯的军队规模。克里姆林宫的逻辑很明确:几乎任何方案都比实施在政治和人口结构上代价高昂的俄罗斯公民动员要好。

普京招募的非洲新兵引发了最激烈的头条报道。从南非到多哥和喀麦隆,一个复杂的招募网络确保了非洲劳动力源源不断地流向俄罗斯前线。调查类非政府组织 Code for Africa 最新发布的研究显示,这些招募者如何在 Meta 和 TikTok 上发布广告。

一些帖子是“演员招募”,看似提供在俄罗斯担任演员和电影群众演员的工作。另一些则更为直接。本月早些时候,一个针对科特迪瓦的帖子写道:“俄罗斯军事合同”。

肯尼亚受到了严重打击。由于该国糟糕的经济状况,愤怒情绪已积聚一段时间,促使政府推动将肯尼亚工人派遣到国外。在过去十年中,已有超过 400,000 人前往欧洲、美国和中东。海外工人的汇款为肯尼亚经济带来了 77亿英镑 的价值,但许多人陷入了剥削性的境地。

“现在每个人都试图在任何可能的地方寻找机会,即使是最危险的地方,”反对党国会议员恩丁迪·尼约罗(Ndindi Nyoro)表示,“从经济角度来看,人们觉得在这里已经走投无路了。”

加入俄罗斯参与乌克兰战争的招募人员所属国家

外国战士人数

少于 100 100-499 500-999 超过 1,000

来源:I Want to Live 项目 - 乌克兰国防部和乌克兰国防情报局

被困在乌克兰前线的肯尼亚人家人发起的抗议活动带来了日益增长的公众压力。今年 2 月,肯尼亚外交部长穆萨利亚·穆达瓦迪(Musalia Mudavadi)前往莫斯科与俄罗斯外交部长谢尔盖·拉夫罗夫(Sergei Lavrov)举行会谈。双方达成一致,不再有肯尼亚人(无论是自愿还是以其他方式)为俄罗斯拿起武器。此后,已有 600 多家肯尼亚招募机构被关闭。

最受关注的案例集中在一家名为 Global Faces Human Resources 的机构负责人费斯图斯·阿拉萨·奥姆万巴(Festus Arasa Omwamba)身上。这名 33 岁的男子在 2 月份试图跨越埃塞俄比亚边境时被捕,此前人们在一家公寓楼内发现了 22 名等待前往俄罗斯的肯尼亚人。奥姆万巴对人口贩卖指控表示不认罪,并在今年早些时候获得保释。目前其下落不明。

另外三名由奥姆万巴公司招募的肯尼亚男子确实抵达了前线。其中一人是斯蒂芬(Stephen)。首先是招聘广告,然后是迅速办理签证以及一张经由伊斯坦布尔前往圣彼得堡的机票。抵达后,他被一名俄罗斯联系人接走,这个人的名字似乎一直在变。“我叫他里兹万(Rizwan),”斯蒂芬说,“其他人叫他阿里(Ali)。[我们]去他的公寓吃饭……第二天早上,我们就离开了。”

在开设银行账户后,他们被送往一个军事营地,旅程持续了数日,在那里接受了三周的基础训练。随后,他们被运往前线。

“我不想刻板印象,[但]白人不爱黑人,”斯蒂芬说,“[我们]是那些被立即派出去的人。”

作为一名退伍军人,他原以为自己了解暴力。但战场上数百具未被掩埋且通常被肢解的尸体让他意识到自己错了。他说,不可能知道他看到了多少人被杀,甚至不知道他自己杀了多少人。无法入睡。弹药、食物甚至水的配给在最好的情况下也是断断续续的。几天之内,他所在部队的少数幸存者沦落到吃白蚁。“我们就那样生存了两三天,直到[我们的]无人机为我们投下食物”。

被招募到乌克兰作战的肯尼亚男子的家属拿着失踪亲属的照片(左图)。Anadolu / Getty Images

下方的丹坎·切格(Dancan Chege)申请的是驾驶工作,结果却成了士兵。

“我告诉我的指挥官我不想和乌克兰人战斗。但他却说,我们给了你食物。你不能拒绝”

丹坎·切格(Dancan Chege)

在经历了数周的战斗后,斯蒂芬不小心踩到地雷,导致他住院并受重伤。回到内罗毕的感觉是“天堂般的,是世界上最好的感觉。我从未如此开心过”。

他的欣喜十分短暂。他赚到的一切都花在了回家的旅途中。他依然失业,且难以负担治疗伤势所需的药物。

在他出发之前,是否意识到将会发生什么?他承认,或许所谓的“安保”可能涉及守卫军事基地,但他坚称自己不知道这会涉及前线战斗。

丹坎·切格(Dancan Chege)很快就意识到了真相。他三十出头,身材瘦削,去年夏天看到一则在俄罗斯从事高薪驾驶工作的广告后给予了回应。“我想着我可以改变我们的[处境]。我去那里,好让这里的情况变得更好。”

为了筹集招聘机构要求的押金,切格的母亲从当地一家合作社贷款。和斯蒂芬一样,他经由伊斯坦布尔飞往俄罗斯。在抵达乌克兰东部被战争摧毁的顿涅茨克之前,他被发了一把枪并接受了两周的基础训练。他的新俄罗斯雇主是臭名昭著的雇佣兵组织——瓦格纳集团(Wagner Group)。“我告诉我的指挥官,我不想和乌克兰人战斗。我想回我的祖国。但他却说:‘我们给了你训练,给了你食物。你不能拒绝’。”

违抗命令的代价就是死亡。切格讲述了一个熟悉的故事:不断的无人机袭扰、混乱以及不分青红皂白的杀戮。最终,他在伪装精神健康问题后获得了医疗假。在莫斯科,他从医院潜逃,并在母亲卖掉家里的牛之后买了一张回国的机票。他从未拿到工资。

切格提出了一个令人震惊的说法。即便现在,在关于前往俄罗斯的肯尼亚人命运被公开报道数月之后,他仍然收到想要前往的人发来的信息。每周有好几次,他会收到希望他将自己与招聘人员联系起来的请求。“我告诉他们离我远点,”他说。

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那些秘密的军事招聘网络是否仍在运作?在内罗毕期间,我们发现了几篇最近的 Facebook 帖子,显示至少有二十多名肯尼亚青年最近从乔莫·肯雅塔国际机场出发前往俄罗斯工作。最近的招聘广告提供利润丰厚的农业和食品加工工作,使用的是与 Code for Africa 记录的军事广告类似的 AI 生成模板。上个月发布的另一篇帖子描绘了一群面带微笑的男子在出发航班前挥手告别。他们穿着统一的连帽衫,上面印有总部位于内罗毕的 Wings Recruitment 机构以及俄罗斯公司 BRICS Mobility 的标志。目前没有证据表明所宣传的工作并非民事岗位。

当我们联系 Wings 时,对方告诉我们,虽然在这个行业中确实存在一些不道德的人,但该公司所做的一切都是公开透明的,并符合肯尼亚的招聘法律。在其位于内罗毕一个高档社区的办公室内,一块招牌自豪地宣称其在派遣肯尼亚人出国方面的专业能力。其中没有提到俄罗斯。

BRICS Mobility 同样拒绝直接回答关于其与 Wings 关系的问题,不过它表示,如果我们能办理俄罗斯签证和媒体认证,它可以安排一次实地访问,以检查其非洲员工的状况。随后,该公司在其网站上发布了一份新闻稿,警告称“非洲国家的某些不道德招聘和教育机构可能在冒用我们的名义”。

斯蒂芬对于肯尼亚人仍然愿意前往俄罗斯并不感到惊讶。他说,有一句古老的谚语揭示了问题的核心。那是关于一个贫穷的小男孩为了象牙而猎象的故事。“如果他杀死了大象,他的贫困就结束了。如果大象杀死了他,他的贫困也结束了。无论哪种方式,他的贫困都结束了。”

由埃德温·奥科斯(Edwin Okoth)提供追加报道。本文由阿拉梅达研究所(Alameda Institute)的资助支持。

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我对白厅如何看待权力下放再熟悉不过了。祝你好运,安迪。迈克尔·赫塞尔廷,第 33 页

简单多数制是为两党制的英国而设计的。那个时代已经结束了 安德鲁·罗恩斯利 (Andrew Rawnsley)

📄 外文原文 ↗

随着政治格局的碎片化,安迪·伯纳姆 (Andy Burnham) 承诺改革选举制度的行为受到了欢迎。但接下来的走向远未确定。

在 1951 年的选举中,工党和保守党的合计得票率接近 97%,当时没有人过多抱怨选举制度。当英国政治真正是一场“两马之争”时,使用简单多数制 (first-past-the-post) 来选出政府是合理的。

而现在,英格兰演变成了“五马之争”,苏格兰和威尔士则是“六马之争”。当你试图将多党政治强行塞入一个为双头垄断而设计的制度时,就会产生荒谬的结果。安迪·伯纳姆从基尔·斯塔默 (Sir Keir Starmer) 那里继承了一个巨大的议会多数席位,但在 2024 年的选举中,工党的得票率仅比投票人数的三分之一多出那么一点点。这场缺乏民心支持的压倒性胜利,是英国普选经验中最不成比例的结果。下一次选举可能会产生更加离奇的结果。当少数几个政党的得票率在 10% 到 30% 之间时,支持率的微小波动就可能引发赢得或失去席位的剧烈波动。一个仅获得 10 人中 3 人投票支持,以及全国 10 人中 2 人支持的单党政府就职,并非不可能。这将让人感觉缺乏合法性,并且会腐蚀公众对民主的信心。

保留简单多数制的论点从未如此乏力。支持者过去习惯于以“保证强有力且稳定的政府,能够采取果断行动”为由,来证明“赢家通吃”导致的不成比例是合理的。然而,在我们最近的五次选举中,有两次——2010 年和 2017 年——产生了悬议议会。大卫·卡梅伦 (David Cameron) 不得不匆忙与尼克·克莱格 (Nick Clegg) 组建一个实际上没有人投票支持的联合政府。特蕾莎·梅 (Theresa May) 则与民主统一党勉强达成了一项协议。伯纳姆先生是短短十年内唐宁街 10 号的第七任“承租人”。这并不怎么强有力,也不怎么稳定。

在他于党代会上发表的慷慨激昂的演讲中,所有大胆声明里,这位工党领导人对选举改革的支持宣言具有最强的变革潜力。他表示,一个新的国家委员会将研究相关方案,并且他将在下次选举中以竞选宣言的形式承诺改革选举制度,“以便让每个人的选票都发挥作用,让每个人的声音都被听到”。这意味着下一次选举可能是最后一次使用简单多数制进行的选举。这一前景让大多数保守党人感到恐惧。他们已经表示将抵制该委员会,预计他们将激烈地反对变革。

“下一次选举可能是最后一次使用简单多数制进行的选举。” Leon Neal / Getty Images

这个问题将暴露工党的内部的分歧。虽然改革在党内变得越来越受欢迎,但支持程度绝非普遍。一名部长表示:“糟糕的主意,我们再也不会拥有一个拥有多数席位的工党政府了。”另一位工党议员警告说,花两年时间在改革问题上争论将是“安迪在处理如此多其他重大事务时的巨大分心”。其他人则对未来出现欧洲式的联合政府感到战栗,并担心比例代表制最终会鼓励工党分裂成其底层的派系。在内阁成员中,财政大臣约翰·希利 (John Healey) 有反对改革的历史。我被告知,首相的二把手路易丝·海格 (Louise Haigh) 和首席党鞭安妮莉丝·米德格利 (Anneliese Midgley) 也是怀疑论者。

伯纳姆先生曾经也是其中一员。他将自己转向这一事业的部分功劳归于最近去世的父亲罗伊。与之前的工党领袖不同,他似乎并不忌惮联盟政治,而达成共识是他演说中的一个恒久主题。在这个承诺背后还潜藏着精明的计算。“如果你的策略是团结进步阵营,那么这是一个明智之举,”一名工党战略分析师评论道。除了建议英国需要与欧盟建立更紧密的关系外,承诺进行选举制度改革有助于这位工党领袖在下次选举前建立一个“进步联盟”,并且可能会更容易地获得来自绿党、自民党等其他政党的策略性选票。

具体会发生什么将高度取决于提出什么样的改革方案。谁来主持委员会?还有谁在其中任职?其具体职权范围是什么?在唐宁街 10 号开始回答这些关键问题之前,未来将像浓雾一样模糊不清。

关于首相心中在想什么,我们确实有一些线索。助手们表示,他认为任何新制度都必须保留“选区联系”至关重要。这将排除转向某些其他国家(如以色列和荷兰)所采用的纯比例代表制。首相在会议上的演讲实际上并未提到比例代表制。他谈到的是“选举制度改革”,这是一个更具弹性的词汇。

曼彻斯特采用了补充投票制(Supplementary Vote system),在这种制度下,选民被邀请选择第一和第二偏好候选人。如果没有候选人获得超过 50% 的第一偏好票,前两名将进入决选。这激励政治家去接触其他政党的支持者,并鼓励积极的竞选活动。这当然不是比例代表制。

许多工党改革派支持采用英国已经实施的一种投票机制版本。苏格兰议会和伦敦议会是通过附加成员制(Additional Member System)选出的,该制度由两张选票组成。选民使用领先者当选制(first-past-the-post)选举一名选区代表。他们同时投票给一个政党,然后从地区政党名单中分配附加成员,以帮助确保每个政党的席位份额更紧密地反映其得票份额。这在使整体结果更具比例性的同时,保留了选区联系。

领先者当选制之所以能维持这么久,是因为之前两大政党都认为废除它不符合自身利益。现在,我们第一次拥有了一位认为选举制度改革对他个人以及更广泛的进步事业有意义的工党首相。接下来的战斗将围绕具体用什么来取代它,以及在不举行全民公投的情况下对游戏规则做出根本性改变是否妥当而展开。会议上的承诺并不等同于法律的变更。未来的斗争将是持久且激烈的。系好安全带。

时事通讯

安德鲁·劳恩斯利的政治观察(Politics Observer)

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埃丝特·兰岑让人们无法忽视我们争取辅助死亡的斗争 莎拉·伍顿

📄 外文原文 ↗

在过去的几天里,我们听到了很多关于在埃丝特·兰岑(Esther Rantzen)陪伴下成长的人们的故事。关于那些聚集在一起观看《这就是生活!》(That's Life!)的家庭,关于那些生活被“儿童热线”(Childline)改变的年轻人,以及那些通过她创建的“银色热线”(Silver Line)找到陪伴的老年人。

我想谈谈争取辅助死亡的运动是如何在埃丝特的推动下壮大的。

在经历了非凡的社会改革生涯后,埃丝特在 2023. 被诊断出患有四期肺癌,随后才开始关注辅助死亡问题。但当她介入其中时,她带来了定义其公众生活的所有特质:好奇心、勇气、俏皮、坚持,以及一种让人们倾听那些容易被忽视的声音的本能决心。

这种本能贯穿于她的所有行动之中。埃丝特在女性经常被剥夺男性所拥有的机会、权威和播出时间的时代,在电视领域取得了成功。她不仅成为了一名主持人,还成为了一名制片人、记者和强大的活动家。后来,她创建了“儿童热线”和“银色热线”,因为她看到人们被辜负,并决定仅仅是注意到这些问题是不够的。

当你与她本人见面时,这些品质是显而易见的。我参加一次活动时准备了一篇经过深思熟虑的演讲稿。而埃丝特的提示卡上只有一个词。接着,她讲了一个冗长且露骨的笑话。

全场屏息凝神,随后爆发出一阵阵大笑。这就是埃丝特:完全掌控局面,真实自我,能够让人们在严肃与欢乐之间转换,且从未忘记她为何出现在那里,以及她希望人们感受到什么。

埃丝特·兰岑于上周去世,享年 86, 照片拍摄于 2022. 3月。她公开谈论了她的癌症诊断以及她有一天可能想要辅助死亡的可能性。

Hollie Adams / AFP, Getty

当她开始公开谈论辅助死亡时,她做了一件同样强有力的事情。她为受苦者发声,强调了许多绝症患者及其家属所面临的艰难对话和选择。

通过如此公开地谈论自己的诊断结果、她的恐惧以及她有一天可能想要辅助死亡的可能性,她让全国成千上万的其他家庭也获得了谈论自己意愿的许可。

“尊严地死去”(Dignity in Dying)组织花费了数十年时间来构建变革的理由,反映了巨大的公众支持,将绝症患者及其家属聚集在一起,开发关于现状失败的证据,并稳步将辅助死亡推向政治议程。埃丝特的介入为我们长期运行的运动带来了非同寻常的新影响力与紧迫感,将一个已经得到如此多人们支持的事业带入了全国各地的家庭和对话中。

在埃丝特公开表示希望为自己拥有选择权之后,辅助死亡迅速成为国家对话的焦点。她直接挑战政治领导人,支持议会修改法律的努力,并且即使在健康状况恶化的情况下,仍继续谈论现有的

埃丝特目睹人们遭受挫折,并认定仅仅是注意到这些还远远不够

📄 外文原文 ↗

法律对她及其家人意味着什么。本周的悼词捕捉到了她之所以能成为一名高效活动家的原因。Childline 的肖恩·弗里尔(Shaun Friel)回忆起她是一个“激励人们、鼓舞人们、说服人们”的人。多布斯勋爵(Lord Dobbs)则回忆她“讨人喜欢、表达清晰、风趣——且非常执着”。

最后一个词至关重要。

埃丝特所参与的并非每一场活动都能立即取得成功。她明白社会变革

很少是整洁、快速或线性的。重要的是持续地陈述理由,持续地揭露失效之处,并持续地坚持让受影响最深的人被听到。

她的去世发生在对于我们这些与她一同开展辅助死亡活动的人来说极其痛苦的一段时间之后。在最近的一项法案上个月以微弱差距被否决之前,威斯敏斯特距离修改法律之近,达到了现代英国历史上的最高点。

埃丝特没能活到看到英格兰和威尔士实现她所期望的变革。但她确实看到了辅助死亡进入英国群岛:在泽西岛和马恩岛。

我们欠她的债极其沉重。同样,我们也欠她的女儿丽贝卡·威尔科克斯(Rebecca Wilcox)一份沉重的人情,她以非凡的力量与我们并肩奋斗。

莎拉·伍顿(Sarah Wootton)是“尊严死亡”(Dignity in Dying)组织的首席执行官

格伦费尔塔延迟的正义并非“里程碑”

📄 外文原文 ↗

此案终于移交至英国皇家检察署(CPS)——金米亚·扎比汉(Kimia Zabihyan)认为,对于一位在没有得到答案的情况下离世的母亲来说,这太迟了。

埃丝特(Esther)一生都拒绝接受一个观点,即困难的问题应该简单地成为别人的问题。这种战斗精神将与我们同在。

上周,格伦费尔塔火灾调查中 20 家公司和 54 名个人被移交给英国皇家检察署(CPS),这被赞誉为一个令人欢欣的“里程碑”。

我们将怀念她的机智、她的温暖以及她那古灵精怪的幽默感。最重要的是,我们将记住她的坚持。

对于大多数 72 名遇难者的家属来说,这根本算不上什么里程碑。

我们日程表上的下一个期限?预计在 2027 年 6 月火灾十周年之前,英国皇家检察署(CPS)将做出起诉决定。

“感觉就像在昨天一样,”是我反复听到的话。但事实是,等待已经持续了九年多。蹒跚学步的孩子已变成青少年,父母在未见正义之前就已离世。

自火灾发生后的那一周起,我一直担任 250 多名幸存者、居民及死者近亲的倡导者。那些他们挚爱之人的面孔,在由社交媒体帖子拼凑而成的纪念海报上显得如此熟悉。

是马苏梅·萨米米(Masoomeh Samimi)有一天告诉我,她的母亲和姨妈——她们被发现在一起,骨灰也混在一起——在面孔画廊中被分开了,这让她多么难过。“你能把她们放在一起吗?”她问我。我照做了,将所有家庭成员匹配在一起,让他们并肩而立。这些细节意义重大。

有些事情你无法改变:又一位母亲在等待正义中离世。三个月前,82 岁的佐赫拉·拉巴伊(Zohra Rabaee)去世了。她在去世前特意前往塔楼告别。日日夜夜,她为在火灾中丧生的女儿哈迪贾·哈卢菲(Khadija Khalloufi)的灵魂祈祷。海报上的她是一张带着美丽微笑的灿烂面孔。

佐赫拉的儿子卡里姆(Karim)曾告诉我:“我的母亲在为了正义而坚持。我不知道该如何告诉她,正义可能在她有生之年不会到来。甚至可能在我有生之年也不会到来。”延迟的正义并非抽象的概念。它是一位在没有得到答案的情况下离世的母亲。

从 2019 年起,在与英国皇家检察署(CPS)高级检察官和伦敦警察厅的会议上,家属们一直在问:为什么还没有起诉?在 2020 年,我们得到了答案:是因为格伦费尔

我们将带着这份精神前行。

2017 年 6 月 15 日,即火灾次日,时任首相特蕾莎·梅(Theresa May)访问了仍在冒烟的塔楼。当天晚些时候,她宣布进行全面的法定公共调查。这一个决定改变了司法进程,因为它导致了警方调查的延迟,并将影响英国皇家检察署(CPS)做出起诉决定的能力。被告将聘请律师,而第一个辩护理由将是“我的当事人无法获得公正的审判”。英国皇家检察署(CPS)可能会得出结论,认为许多原本可以提出的指控无法继续推进。

高级检察官和

讽刺的是,调查期间的证据是由伦敦警察厅收集并提交给调查委员会的,但警方必须等到调查“结束”后,才能将证据提交给英国皇家检察署(CPS)以做出起诉决定。“那么调查是为了什么?”家属们问道。“为了吸取教训,”他们得到的回答是。

塔楼公共调查被设定为优先顺序。

“调查是为了什么,”家属们问道。“为了吸取教训,”他们得到的回答是。

伦敦警察厅表示,他们在“整个职业生涯”中从未“经历过类似”的情况。在刑事程序启动之前就下令开展调查是“史无前例的”。他们表示,延迟是因为在“等待”调查结束。警方告诉我们,他们正在处理一个极其特殊的情况:一项公众调查和一项刑事调查在同一时间审查许多相同的事件,且几乎所有来自警方的证据都被移交给了调查组。

2024年9月,当调查组最终公布报告时,超过半数死者的家属聚集在一起举行新闻发布会。他们愤怒地表示:一项他们从未要求过的调查耗资超过 1.73 亿英镑。到那时,这已经使正义被延迟了七年。

那个秋天,我们询问了现在的梅登黑德女男爵梅(Baroness May of Maidenhead)为何做出该决定,以及她是否就其影响寻求过法律建议。她以“难以想象的悲剧”为由做出回应,但未能回答我们的问题。我们回信询问:她是否与总检察长、伦敦警察厅或英国皇家检察署(CPS)讨论过潜在的影响?她

回复道:“我设立这项调查是为了能够全面查明火灾发生的时间和原因,并吸取教训,以确保此类悲剧不再发生。”

2026年1月,我们询问了英国皇家检察署(CPS)和伦敦警察厅,得到的答复是:“我们没有被咨询。我们是被告知的。”于是,我们通过信息自由请求联系了时任首相基尔·斯塔默的内阁办公室,但一年来关于梅的决策过程一直没有得到任何答复。

这并非一个历史好奇心问题。一个答案将使家属和公众能够理解,在涉及大型企业和国家参与者(包括肯辛顿和切尔西皇家自治市、一个政府部门及国务大臣)的全国最大规模谋杀案调查之后,其中一个最具影响力的决定是如何做出的。

我们要求安迪·伯纳姆给家属提供一些体制未能提供的东西:透明度和答案。首相先生,请公开档案。让真相大白。

那才将是一个里程碑。

Kimia Zabihyan 是 Grenfell Next of Kin 的倡导者

我在利物浦实践了“曼彻斯特主义”——迈克尔·赫塞尔廷

📄 外文原文 ↗

“曼彻斯特主义”是安迪·伯纳姆演讲的一个恰当标题,他在演讲中呼吁英国每个邮政编码区域都能实现增长。我也发表过类似的演讲,尽管那些演讲被贴上“利物浦主义”的标签会更合适。现在他身为首相,处于能够推动权力下放议程的位置,我一直满怀期待。

我不怀疑他的信念。在担任大曼彻斯特市市长期间,他展示了那个职位能实现什么,但全国有一半地区没有这样的下放框架,而且即使在都会区,过多的权力仍然集中在中央政府的白厅各部门手中。

我太熟悉那些部门如何为任何威胁到其主导地位的提案制造障碍了。

当玛格丽特·撒切尔批准我成立码头区发展公司,以改造伦敦东区超过 2,400 公顷(6,000 英亩)的废弃土地时,他们解释说这将需要混合立法,并会带来随之而来的所有延迟,因为拟议的法律仅影响一个地方。我说我们将采取通用权力来处理城市更新,并询问第二个最糟糕的地区在哪里。于是,利物浦也获得了一家发展公司!

在面对用议会税(council tax)取代人头税(poll tax)的责任时,我被告知区估价师需要 10 年时间才能完成对每栋房屋的必要估值。而私人房地产经纪人在六个月内就毫无怨言地完成了这项工作。

寻找中央政府与全国广大地区之间更有效关系的问题,自 20 世纪 40 年代以来一直是一个持续的辩论话题。工党政府创建了新镇计划以应对贫民窟清理,随后成立了雷德克利夫-莫德委员会(Redcliffe-Maud commission),就英格兰约 1,200 个地方当局的模式提交报告。

关于将这些当局全部废除并由大约 60 个单一管理当局取代的建议,被白厅走廊里那些被要求“投票决定自己被宰”的人,以及英格兰的市议员和议员们拒绝了。1972 年,当我担任环境大臣彼得·沃克(Peter Walker)的初级部长时,我们成功将数量减少到约 300 个,由两级郡议会组成,并在大城市中设立一个新一级的都会议会以协调城市自治市镇。在与那些即将被我终结其世界的议员们开会时,我积累的政治伤痕至今仍未痊愈。

然而,是在 1981 年的利物浦,我对地方政府的理解经历了个人层面的转变。自 1979 年起担任环境大臣以来,我继承了由我的工党前任彼得·肖尔(Peter Shore)与该市建立的特殊关系。我觉得我宣布成立发展公司和花园节、重新开发阿尔伯特码头,以及将废弃土地补助金转为城市改善计划的决定,确认了这种关系。

1981 年,在城市托克斯特(Toxteth)地区的骚乱中,国民西敏寺银行(NatWest bank)被纵火焚烧。我与撒切尔夫人达成一致,决定访问该市。

“你打算怎么处理这件事?”一名记者问道。我注意到在我进行的所有多次对话中有一个共同特征:每个人都知道该责怪谁——而且永远是别人。没有人负责。在我走在街头时,我列出了一份包含约 30 个想法的清单,我认为这些都是潜在的机会。

可以请求通用电气公司(General Electric Company)改造其门前后来成为韦弗特里科技园(Wavertree Technology Park)的地方;住房公司可以开发大教堂区域;而维多利亚与阿尔伯特博物馆则希望在阿尔伯特码头建立一座新博物馆。

谁将促成这一切?我意识到,只有担任国务大臣,我才拥有必要的权力和资源。答案只有一个。在接下来的 18 个月里,我每周花一天时间领导一个由公共和私营部门组成的工作组,将那份清单变为现实。我认为,这代表了有记录以来干预程度最高的一次部长任职经历。

伯纳姆的“覆盖每个邮编区”要求一项全面的国家政策。他拥有在

我身上带着与那些世界即将崩塌的议员们会面后留下的伤痕

📄 外文原文 ↗

大都市区。他应当立即立法将郡(counties)转换为市长制单一管理区,首任市长于 2027 年选出。他将不得不面对这样一种论点,即郡的划分并不总是能反映经济现实。但不能让“最优”成为“良好”的敌人。该项目应当紧迫地推进。

创造财富的紧迫需求排除了创建新一类权力机构所涉及的选择和延迟。每位市长应当

被赋予制定地方经济计划的职责,并被邀请申请中央资金,说明如果提供此类资金将能吸引多少额外投资。这一过程将使当地公司、组织、大学、准政府机构(quangos)以及更广泛的公民参与到与当地优势相关且旨在消除劣势的财富创造政策中。

资金已经枯竭。解决方案是更有效地利用现有的预算资金。杠杆机制的经验已得到充分证明。乔治·奥斯本(George Osborne)从约 £10 的白厅职能预算中抽走了 £2。我建议将这一数额提高到约 £5,并将其分配给那些能提供最具吸引力的额外资金的市长。那些不够成功的市长将迅速学会如何改进他们的申请方案。

这些想法并没有什么新意,它们在实践中都得到了证明。如果首相想要实现他的另一个想法,并跨越政治分歧寻求合作,他可以邀请格雷格·克拉克(Greg Clark)加入他的团队,并带来他作为一名成功的权力下放部长的所有经验。

迈克尔·赫塞尔廷(Michael Heseltine)在 1966 年至 2001 年期间担任国会议员。他曾任内阁大臣,并在 1995 年至 1997 年期间担任副首相。

凯恩斯是我的思想指路明灯。关于他生活的戏剧是否精准到位?威尔·哈顿

📄 外文原文 ↗

詹姆斯·格雷厄姆对伟大经济学家约翰·梅纳德·凯恩斯的致敬令人动容。我们的常驻专家将事实与虚构区分开来

我认为经济学家约翰·梅纳德·凯恩斯对当代资本主义提供了迄今为止最原创、最深刻且最精准的理解。他是我的思想指路明灯,他的思想影响了我所有的写作。因此,当我去看詹姆斯·格雷厄姆的《生活标准》(The Standard of Living)这部描绘凯恩斯生活与思想的戏剧时,心中不免有些忐忑。这位擅长大众化创作的剧作家能否超越凯恩斯的双性恋倾向以及他与布卢姆茨伯里团体(Bloomsbury group)的关系?他会在多大程度上陷入经济和政治右翼所提供的那个被歪曲的、喜剧化的凯恩斯版本——即“他仅仅是一个主张增税与支出、准社会主义者”——并试图从自由主义左翼的角度来为这些主张辩护?

这部剧的核心主张是,凯恩斯认为经济学必须成为一门首先允许人们过上美好生活的科学。这正确吗?

我离开伦敦的海马基特皇家剧院(Theatre Royal Haymarket)时深受触动。格雷厄姆捕捉到了凯恩斯及其颠覆范式的重要性——他与爱因斯坦和弗洛伊德齐名。尽管两个半小时有时堪称精彩的戏剧,以及罗里·金尼尔(Rory Kinnear)饰演的凯恩斯的卓越表演,不可避免地留下了许多未尽之言。在最后几分钟,我不得不强忍泪水。来自出人意料之地的意外盟友们在此庆祝凯恩斯思想的宏伟——但考虑到他对艺术的热爱,也许他们是最合适的人选。

emphatically,是的。凯恩斯深信经济学的任务是给每个人提供过上美好生活的机会——金钱仅为实现这一目标而服务。他的伟大之处在于打破了自由放任主义(laissez-faire)那些枯燥乏味的主张,并提供了实现这一目标的思想和手段。

他为战后的国家和国际协议奠定了基础,使政府能够塑造市场(尤其是金融市场),与企业平等合作,并建立从摇篮到坟墓的社会保障体系。在30年间,实现了充分就业和生活水平的提高。他兑现了经济学的承诺。

是的。在1919年出版的里程碑式著作《和平的经济后果》(The Economic Consequences of the Peace)中,凯恩斯以尖刻的措辞指出,第一次世界大战的战胜国强加给德国的巨额赔款规模是无法偿还的,只能导致德国的恶性通货膨胀、经济和政治动荡,并最终威胁到盟军为维护而战的自由世界秩序。哈耶克在维也纳经历了恶性通货膨胀的匮乏,他钦佩一名英国经济学家能如此勇敢地谴责《凡尔赛条约》。后来将他们分道扬镳的是凯恩斯的信念,即自由市场资本主义并没有内在的倾向去寻找所谓的“均衡结果”(即所有人都会好起来),除非可能在——且不可靠地——极长期的未来。因此,国家有责任采取行动。相反,哈耶克认为,国家必须以自由之名,绝不能干预市场寻找均衡的尝试,因为无论经历怎样的衰退,市场最终都将不可避免地实现均衡。

在剧中,伟大的自由市场意识形态专家弗里德里希·哈耶克在开始时被描绘成一个超级粉丝,随后成为了凯恩斯最激烈的批评者。事实真是这样吗?

凯恩斯是否真的讲过那个寓言:一名旅店老板接受了£1的房间押金,虽然房间实际上从未被租出,但却在村庄中引发了一连串的消费反应,从而提升了商业活动和士气?

凯恩斯使用生动的例子向更广泛的公众解释他的思想,人们经常说他使用这个“一英镑寓言”来解释“乘数”效应——即支出具有涟漪般的刺激作用——这是他思想的核心组成部分。据我所知,没有确凿证据表明凯恩斯使用过这个例子——但另一方面,格雷厄姆的研究相当出色!

他的心理学成绩真的比经济学高吗?

📄 外文原文 ↗

他在第一次世界大战前参加了公务员考试,由于经济学成绩不佳,而包括心理学在内的其他科目成绩很高,这使他没能获得第一名。他开玩笑说,他的考官们对经济学的了解一定比他少。

格雷厄姆将他描绘成一个在公共厕所诱导水手、并与作家利顿·斯特雷奇(Lytton Strachey)和艺术家邓肯·格兰特(Duncan Grant)有染的同性恋者。事实真是这样吗?

凯恩斯在剑桥大学本科期间以及第一次世界大战期间和战后,与许多男性保持过关系,其中包括斯特雷奇和格兰特,两人都是布鲁姆斯伯里团体(Bloomsbury set)的成员。他记录了与谁发生过关系,并标注了对方的性能力。是的,他曾在公园和公共厕所寻找伴侣。如果伟大的希腊哲学家可以赞美男性的美,那么剑桥学院的子弟为何不可以?

他真的爱上并娶了一位俄罗斯芭蕾舞团的舞者吗?

📄 外文原文 ↗

他深深地爱上了莉迪亚·洛波科娃(Lydia Lopokova)。他热爱

[图片]

插图为1929年的约翰·梅纳德·凯恩斯。下方为1931年的芭蕾舞演员莉迪亚·洛波科娃,后成为凯恩斯夫人。

[图片]

在《生活标准》(The Standard of Living)中,罗里·金尼尔(Rory Kinnear)饰演凯恩斯,与娜塔莉亚·奥西波娃(Natalia Osipova)和卢克·辛克·怀特(Luke Cinque White)同框。

曼努埃尔·哈隆(Manuel Harlon)

她那充满活力的舞蹈能量。当时同性恋是非法的;这种风险可能使与男性的接触变成交易性质。而与女性在一起则没有这个问题。结婚后,他记录性征服的日志停止了。洛波科娃的爱与照顾陪伴了他接下来的20年,包括他创作出最优秀作品的时期。他们最大的遗憾是没有孩子。

是他创立了艺术委员会(Arts Council)吗?

📄 外文原文 ↗

是的。他认为伟大的艺术能丰富每个人的生活——在他道德宇宙的认知中,艺术不应是富人的专属。艺术委员会旨在尝试将这种体验带给每一位英国公民,甚至在他去世前的日子里,他仍在起草该委员会的章程。

在剧中,哈耶克被描绘成被玛格丽特·撒切尔所接纳,他的书被象征性地放入一个手提包中。这真的发生过吗?

很少有经济学家在专业层面高度评价哈耶克,但《通往奴役之路》被认为是20世纪最伟大的右翼意识形态号召书籍之一。市场等同于自由;国家等同于强制。撒切尔坚持要求内阁每位成员阅读此书,以强调他们致力于结束受凯恩斯主义启发的战后协议。对凯恩斯持同情态度的保守党人被斥为“软弱者”(wets)。尽管“撒切尔主义”存在明显的缺陷,但自那时起,凯恩斯主义在很大程度上一直被冷冻搁置。

在剧终时,格雷厄姆似乎在暗示,我们回归凯恩斯主义模型具有必然性。在伯纳姆政府中,现在情况确实如此吗?

📄 外文原文 ↗

我希望如此。无论是“资本主义的私有化”和债券市场的权力,第四次工业革命的展开以及创建新“创新经济”的需求,还是气候变化的挑战或缓解严重的极不平等,我们都需要凯恩斯精神。

在未来的几十年里,资本主义无法自行找到通往最佳结果的道路。正如该剧所主张的,它需要公共行动而非惯性。

晒床会导致癌症。社交媒体是时候停止推崇这种“光彩”了

📄 外文原文 ↗

医学专家对通过 Instagram 和 TikTok 等平台推广使用晒床的行为日益感到担忧,因为这些平台忽视了晒床是导致皮肤癌的重要风险因素(见上周新闻报道《社交媒体如何让晒床再次变得危险》)。

黑色素瘤是最致命的皮肤癌形式,且在英国的发病率正在上升。它是该国第五大常见癌症(目前在男性中排名第四),每年有超过 20,000 例新病例。它在英国每年导致约 2,600 人死亡,即每天死亡 7 人以上,但近 10 例病例中有 9 例可以通过避免来自太阳或晒床的紫外线辐射来预防。

国际癌症研究机构已将晒床与烟草和石棉一同列入最高级别的致癌物类别。年轻的皮肤尤其容易受到这些风险的影响;研究表明,在 35 岁之前使用过一次晒床,黑色素瘤的风险就会增加 $59\%$ 。这就是为什么澳大利亚和巴西等国家已禁止商业晒床使用,而爱尔兰公共卫生研究所也建议实施禁令。

尽管如此,晒床行业和网红们仍继续将其作为一种美容趋势进行推广,淡化或忽视了巨大的癌症风险。在线上以健康或美容建议为掩护地对晒床进行激进营销,是极不道德的。宣传信息与关于紫外线危险的科学证据之间的脱节造成了不必要的风险,导致了本可预防的癌症病例。

另一种令人担忧的情况是,名为 Melanotan II、MT-2 或“芭比药物”的晒黑肽在鼻喷雾剂和注射剂中的使用量有所增加,这些产品通常与晒床使用一起被推广和购买。这些产品不受监管,且未经安全或质量测试。它们带来了巨大的健康风险,而用户对此在很大程度上并不知情。Melanotan II 被吹捧为快速晒黑的方法,但它可能引起危险的副作用,且人们开始担心它与黑色素瘤之间潜在的联系。

我们强烈敦促社交媒体平台在监管推广晒床等不安全行为的内容方面承担更大责任。监管机构还必须针对误导性的晒床广告以及推广有害行为的社交媒体内容采取更强有力的行动。我们期待卫生与社会关怀部今年秋天关于 18 岁以下青少年使用晒床的咨询结果,并欢迎进一步开展更广泛的咨询。

晒床一直很危险,但通过社交媒体传播的、助长其使用的误导信息,现在已成为一个需要紧急关注和采取行动的严重公共卫生问题。苏珊娜·丹尼尔斯 (Susanna Daniels)

Melanoma Focus 首席执行官

首席执行官,Melanoma Focus

剑桥

健康、护理、教育和警察。在每个选区都可能开展的创造大量就业机会的基础设施工作,将涵盖从修复破裂的人行道和坑洼到为公共建筑提供廉价的供暖和制冷。

对此的答案,也可能是能在下次选举前团结进步党派的、能给人带来希望的大构想,即一项“社会与绿色新政”。这将意味着明确“每个邮政编码区都有良好增长”是指增加劳动密集型经济活动,旨在改善每个社区的护理部门,以及社区所需的社会和绿色基础设施。

最雄心勃勃的,也是应对气候变化和高额化石燃料能源账单最关键的,将是所有建筑的电气化和提高能源效率。这些计划将创造大量的私营部门就业和投资机会。

这必须在未来两年内以一定的规模开始实施,并战略性地分布在尽可能多的邮政编码区,以便工党在选举前有机会展示基于地域的改善能取得怎样的成效,并将希望转化为切实的结果。科林·海因斯(Colin Hines),英国绿色新政小组,米德尔塞克斯郡特威克纳姆

读者来信

📄 外文原文 ↗

在过去的 30 年里,AI 一直在进入我们的生活,而它其实是“编码化人类智能”(CHI)的一个误称:即将人类的知识、规则和决策过程编码进软件中。这并非 AI 的传统定义,但它提供了一种有用的方式,让我们理解早期软件与如今更复杂的 系统之间的连续性。

改变的是规模。在全球范围内应用 CHI 是一个全新的领域,它不能几乎完全掌握在美国、中国或其他地方的少数几家大公司手中。

对整个互联网上的 进行监管根本是不可能的。暴君和独裁者已经在利用 赋能的系统进行监视,这对言论自由产生了严重影响。挑战不在于 是否可以被监管,而在于如何使跨境监管变得有效,并同样适用于政府和企业。——费格斯·斯威尼(Fergus Sweeney)

你们那篇支持 的社论(上周的《劳动力之未来》)对英国科技“独角兽”赞不绝口,并要求安迪·伯纳姆不要错过这些“划时代的机遇”,但这并未能回答你们标题中的问题:劳动力的未来将会如何?这件事让如此多的人感到担忧,尤其是年轻人。

恩凯奇·西姆斯(Nkechi Simms)关于获取其护理记录的有力讲述(见 9 月 20 日新闻调查栏目《粗心》)揭示了一个影响数千人的重要问题。护理记录代表的远不止是个人数据,试图理清自己的童年经历绝不应该变成一场如此艰苦的战斗。

关怀责任

📄 外文原文 ↗

唐郡,班布里奇

我们很高兴恩凯奇受到我们“共同改善记录”(Better Records Together)活动的启发而寻求获取其记录,但令我们感到沮丧和心灰意冷的是,这一过程竟然导致了如此痛苦的经历。遗憾的是,这反映了我们从数百人口中听到的情况。大多数人面临着长时间的延迟、糟糕的沟通,以及最终未能得到解答的问题。

的影响

📄 外文原文 ↗

这是一个系统性问题,相关机构必须做得更好。向人们提供其护理记录是法律规定。记录绝不应该在没有预警的情况下延迟送达,或者在缺乏适当支持以帮助处理困难细节的情况下送达。作为数据保护监管机构,我们制定了新标准,以帮助相关机构正确执行。

这将在以下部门需要充足的人员配置,例如

我们呼吁英国每个地方当局以及北爱尔兰卫生与社会护理局承诺改善护理记录的获取,为团队提供适当的资源,并执行我们的标准,以便在处理请求时能够给予关怀。

遗憾的是,恩凯奇的故事并非孤立的失败案例。它应该给今天持有儿童护理记录的每个机构敲响警钟。现在将孩子放在首位,我们可以避免未来的多年痛苦。——保罗·阿诺德(Paul Arnold),信息专员办公室(The Information Commission's Office)首席执行官,曼彻斯特

Humanitas 挑战“ 崇拜”。她在微软的一个小组讨论中被问到一个真正令人震惊的问题——“人类是否有任何独特或特别之处?”——这反映了我们在思考“我们是谁”这个问题上所达到的可怕状态。

曼彻斯特城在球场上的表现美不胜收,但他们被抓到作弊了(“没有

曼城球迷的客场之旅?

📄 外文原文 ↗

我们拥有如此糟糕的世界领导人(特朗普、普京等);像埃隆·马斯克这样的掠食者控制着如此之多的社交媒体;以及我们正在给地球造成破坏的证据,这些是否导致了如此虚无主义的评估?

诚信,如果没有诚实,那就根本不是一项运动”(上周,《体育》)。我建议的处罚是:下赛季降级至英格兰足球联赛第二级别(League Two),并在本赛季剩余比赛中被大幅扣分(外加巨额罚款)。

那么,听到像教皇那样呼吁我们利用内在的想象力去认可人类之美并付诸行动的声音,是多么必要。我们是否可以希望我们的新任首相,凭借其英语文学学位,能调用这种想象力,为我们的问题寻找更真实的答案?乔·安斯沃思(Joe Unsworth)

纽卡斯尔(Newcastle upon Tyne)

从积极的一面来看,狂热的客场支持者将享受到前往英格兰足球联赛每个球场旅行的乐趣,直到俱乐部一路重返巅峰。

马修·胡伯曼(Matthew Hooberman)

布鲁顿,萨默塞特(Bruton, Somerset)

明天的火腿

📄 外文原文 ↗

哈尼夫·库雷希(Hanif Kureishi)回忆起在西西里岛的一顿饭,食材中使用了“特易购顶级凝脂奶油(Tesco’s Finest clotted cream),这简直荒唐,伊莎贝拉 [他的妻子] 竟然把它放在随身行李中从伦敦带过来”(上周,《新评论》,“西西里,或我如何学会停止担忧并享受午餐”)。在我看来这并不荒唐:我妻子和我曾经在从伦敦到意大利的火车旅程中打包了一些威特罗斯(Waitrose)帕尔马火腿——并且在经过帕尔马时吃掉了它。

莫里斯·韦特(Maurice Waite)

阿普尔顿,牛津郡(Appleton, Oxfordshire)

想象力的解决方案

📄 外文原文 ↗

五人前往 RAF FAIRFORD

娜奥米·奥尔德曼(Naomi Alderman)对教皇利奥的通谕《Magnifica》所做的评论(9月 20 日,《新评论》,“教皇 vs AI 崇拜”)真是及时。

SAF

记录在案

📄 外文原文 ↗
  • 在上周的“噢,真的吗?”问答中(杂志,第 46 页),第三题询问读者:“哪种 3D 形状只有一个表面?”一个正确答案是“实心球体”,但实际上有无数种只有一个表面的 3D 形状,因此会有多种不同的答案。
  • 在一篇社论中(9月 20 日,第 3 页,“更加谨慎”),我们提到关于有护理经历人员生活前景的研究是由纳菲尔德信托(Nuffield Trust)开展的。实际上,这些研究结果是纳菲尔德基金会(Nuffield Foundation)的工作,这是一个独立的组织。
  • 我们欢迎读者的反馈。

征集观察者

📄 外文原文 ↗

写信给我们

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● 如需请求更正或投诉,请写信至 readers@observer.co.uk

讣告

彼得·普林斯 (Peter Prince)

📄 外文原文 ↗

这位作家“颠覆了传统”,并在 BBC 的《奥本海默》剧集中抢先于克里斯托弗·诺兰地探讨了该主题

D

彼得·普林斯编写了电影《击杀》(The Hit, 1984) 的剧本,昆汀·塔伦蒂诺称其为他最喜欢的电影之一。在 1980 年美国总统大选的最后一场电视辩论中,吉米·卡特被认为犯了一个失误,当时他说他询问了 13 岁的女儿对当前最重要问题的看法,而她的回答是“核武器控制”。随着冷战升级,美国人更倾向于立场更强硬的罗纳德·里根。

次日晚上,BBC 开始播出一部与波士顿公共广播电台 WGBH 合作拍摄的七集剧集,探讨核时代的黎明。在克里斯托弗·诺兰同名电影上映的 43 年前,《奥本海默》就是一部备受推崇的关于原子弹之父的传记剧集。迈克尔·比林顿在《纽约时报》中将其描述为“关于科学家处理私人良知与公共道德问题的终极记录”。

该剧由曾在 BBC 科学部门工作并担任过《地平线》(Horizon) 编辑的彼得·古德查尔德制作,而其戏剧张力则源于彼得·普林斯编写的对话密集剧本。普林斯在将才华转向电视剧之前,首部小说就曾获奖,其中几部剧集由年轻的斯蒂芬·弗里斯执导。

普林斯和古德查尔德在美国花费数周时间研究这位科学家,采访了他的学术同行,包括由大卫·苏切特饰演的爱德华·泰勒,后者对核武器的必要性进行了激烈的辩护。他们还采访了奥本海默的家人,以获得一个关于这个复杂人物的准确画像。

这种刻画并不总是讨喜,但被认为在人物和主题上都保持了平衡,呈现的是当时的论点,而非迎合现代观众的观点。普林斯在 2023 年告诉《综艺》(Variety) 杂志,演员萨姆·沃特斯顿捕捉到了 J·罗伯特·奥本海默的复杂性。他说:“他富有魅力,内心矛盾且充满动力。”该系列剧赢得了三项英国电影学院奖 (Bafta),普林斯也获得了艾美奖提名。

彼得·艾伦·普林斯于 1942 年出生在肯特郡的布罗姆利。他的父亲是《泰晤士报》的一名战地记者,直到儿子 18 个月大时才见到他——约翰·普林斯在日记中称他为“那个小家伙”——随后父亲很快再次出发报道 D-day。

在南伦敦的达尔维奇学院就读后,普林斯原计划在伦敦政治经济学院学习,直到他的母亲看到一个提供宾夕法尼亚大学名额的奖学金广告。他在那里主修历史,培养了对美式足球和内战战场的热爱,随后在哥伦比亚大学获得硕士学位,最后与美国妻子贝丝一起返回英国。

1966 年,他前往剑桥大学撰写关于周日报纸(尤其是《观察者报》)历史的博士论文,但未完成便离开了。随后,他在南伦敦的一个冒险游乐场担任主管,这激发他写了第一部小说《玩物》(Play Things),这是一部关于理想主义游戏引导员与他照顾的孩子们的犯罪活动之间斗争的喜剧。普林斯后来承认这是“对事实的背叛”,但得到了尼娜·鲍登和 J.G. 法雷尔等人的好评。

1973 年在纽约拜访岳父母期间,普林斯得知自己获得了面向年轻小说家的萨默塞特·毛姆奖(马丁·艾米斯和

他的最后一部小说因大胆使用 18 世纪的粗俗俚语而受到赞誉

📄 外文原文 ↗

(伊恩·麦克尤恩是接下来的两位获奖者)且贝丝当时正怀孕。他们的女儿罗莎是一名政治记者。贝丝与他于 1981 年离婚,他于 1987 年与电视制片人琳达·罗马诺结婚。

这本书的成功鼓励他尝试剧本创作。他为 BBC 改编了《Play Things》,由弗里尔斯执导,乔纳森·普赖斯和奈杰尔·霍桑主演。他还与弗里尔斯合作拍摄了电视剧《Early Struggles》和《Last Summer》,后者是一部关于偷车贼的戏剧,由理查德·贝金塞利主演,一名评论员称其为“微型经典”。1975 年,他为 BBC 的《Play for Today》系列编写了法庭喜剧《The Floater》,该剧被认为与约翰·莫蒂默的《伦波尔》系列故事相当。

虽然他继续撰写小说,但他的心可能在荧幕上。苏珊·希尔在评论小说《Agents of a Foreign Power》(1977 年)时,称他为“一名笔触一如既往犀利的原创作者”,但认为他在视觉呈现方面更为出色。约翰·萨瑟兰在评价普林斯 1990 年的书籍《Death of a Soap Queen》时表示,其“急转直下”的剧情和题材使其成为电视改编的理想之选。普林斯将他 1983 年的小说《The Good Father》改编成电影,由迈克·纽威尔执导,安东尼·霍普金斯和哈丽特·沃尔特主演。他的最后一部小说《Adam Runaway》(2005 年)因大胆使用 18 世纪的粗俗俚语而受到赞誉。

1980 年,他再次与弗里尔斯合作,为皇家莎士比亚公司(RSC)创作了一部名为《Television Times》的舞台剧。四年后,他们合作拍摄了一部关于一次失败的合同杀手的长篇电影《The Hit》,由特伦斯·斯坦普和蒂姆·罗斯主演。昆汀·塔伦蒂诺称其为他最喜欢的电影之一,而韦斯·安德森则表示,它是有史以来最好的第五部英国电影,仅次于迈克尔·鲍威尔与埃默里克·普雷斯伯格、大卫·林、阿尔弗雷德·希区柯克和卡罗尔·里德的作品。

弗里尔斯赞扬了他的原创性。“他是一个聪明、深思熟虑的人,喜欢颠覆传统,”他说道,“他也非常幽默,能写出很好的笑话。我们共同创作的一些电视剧拥有庞大的观众群,值得被重播。”——帕特里克·基德

彼得·普林斯,小说家兼编剧,出生于 1942 年 5 月 10 日,于 2026 年 9 月 22 日去世,享年 84 岁。

我的这一周

蛇雕

📄 外文原文 ↗

真正的飞行只有一种形式,而我是它唯一的真正女主人。真正的飞行并非关于琐碎的拍打,或者更糟的,人类那震耳欲聋的发动机。真正的飞行是完美的滑翔:当我一天飞行 300 英里,且距离地面通常不超过 30 米(100 英尺)时,我消耗的能量与一个躺在沙发上的人一样多。

周一

📄 外文原文 ↗

我即滑翔:滑翔即我。我的翼展几乎是身体长度的三倍。看:没有尾巴。或者说,没有一个能让你注意到的尾巴;我鲜红色的脚伸在它之外。这种无尾结构极大地减少了阻力,而这正是极端的滑翔生活得以实现的原因。要过上这样的生活,需要经过多年艰苦习得的卓越技巧。

周二

📄 外文原文 ↗

看看那些年幼的孩子,比如我的儿子,或者我的小女儿。他们看起来一点也不像我。首先,他们有尾巴——目前还不能没有尾巴生活。他们就像骑着带辅助轮自行车的年轻人类:在像成年鸟类那样飞行之前,他们需要习得基本技能,而且至关重要地,需要建立对这些技能的信心。我们需要长达八年时间才能成熟,比大多数猛禽都要长。我们要学习的东西更多。

周三

📄 外文原文 ↗

没有尾巴我们如何转向?通过倾斜,就像骑自行车的人类一样。我们如何保持平衡和控制?依靠技巧、经验以及上反角:我们将翅膀保持在浅 V 形。这种构型对于稳定性是最优的——请原谅这些技术术语,但技术是我的痴迷,因为没有它我就会死去。如果我在不稳定的空气中摇晃,上反角能让我迅速恢复到直线平飞状态。

周四

📄 外文原文 ↗

秃鹫能飞得比我们更高,它们在热气流中盘旋以增加高度,直到消失在视线之外。而我们的优势在于低空时的完美滑翔。

我们如何保持平衡与控制?凭借技巧、经验以及上反角——而低空飞行意味着我们总是第一个到达。今天是一头濒死的河马,像往常一样,我独享了它……至少在一段时间内是这样。我不能像鬣狗那样把河马撕开,但眼睛是我的。一如既往。

周五

📄 外文原文 ↗

我并不只局限于死掉的东西:我捕捉像小羚羊一样大的哺乳动物,像几内亚 fowl 一样大的鸟类,以及今天捕捉到的一只沉甸甸的小巨蜥。进食后回到天空:在空中飞行九小时,整天几乎没有扇动过翅膀。

周六

📄 外文原文 ↗

Bateleur 在法语中是“街头表演者”的意思。我们因此得名,是因为我们的求偶翻滚表演:

空翻、桶滚,总是极具震撼的时刻。在其他日子里,当我们展开双翼,翼尖上翘,在天空中漫步,偶尔出现瞬间被修正的摇晃时,我们看起来更像走钢丝的人。我们科学名称的第一部分是 Terathopius:在希腊语中意为“奇妙的面孔”。谦虚地说,我不得不承认他们说对了。我们确实是奇迹。空气就是我的沙发。

寿命 大约 25 年

饮食习惯 在我们之下生存与死亡的生物

爱好 空气动力学

性偏好 航空道上的其他翻滚者

口述给西蒙·巴恩斯(Simon Barnes)

个人资料

克劳迪娅·温克尔曼 (Claudia Winkleman)

📄 外文原文 ↗

《叛徒》主持人称自己“太笨”而无法成为参赛者。莉莉·艾萨克斯 (Lily Isaacs) 写道,她的朋友们对此并不认同。

随着新一季《名人版叛徒》(The Celebrity Traitors) 在全国屏幕上回归,“克劳迪娅·温克尔曼”声称自己永远无法参与这个节目。“我太笨了……我只是在实话实说,”她说,“我在这方面会表现得太糟糕。”

据了解她的人称,这种谦逊对于这位拥有电视圈最著名刘海的女性来说是典型的。

“克劳迪娅非常聪明,”她的好友、前《荒岛唱片》(Desert Island Discs) 主持人克斯蒂·杨 (Kirsty Young) 说道,“她从来不想谈论工作;她希望一切看起来毫不费力。但要做到她现在这样,需要付出努力和抱负。她只要走上去就能完成这一切,这是一种美丽的幻象……她是个勤奋的人,而且目标坚定。”

温克尔曼从 20 岁出头开始在电视荧幕上时隐时现,当时她是日间电视节目的评论员,提供约会建议,并能让严肃的主持人也陷入大笑。她在 2014 年迎来了重大突破,开始与泰丝·戴利 (Tess Daly) 共同主持《舞动奇迹》(Strictly Come Dancing)。她们成为了黄金时段的第一对女性主持组合。

“这可能不是什么脑外科手术,”杨说,“但能像克劳迪娅那样做事的人并不多……那些能成为大型节目核心灵魂的人,是罕见的人才。”

温克尔曼于 1972 年出生,父亲是作家兼文学出版商巴里·温克尔曼 (Barry Winkleman),母亲是记者伊芙·波拉德 (Eve Pollard)。她在伦敦汉普斯特德 (Hampstead) 长大。

波拉德在担任《观察者报》杂志女性编辑时得知自己怀孕了。在那个年代,该报并不提供产假,于是她转到了《星期日镜报》(Sunday Mirror),那里从未听说过一名带着孩子的女性编辑。“我们认为这可能会很有趣,”她回忆起当时报社老板的话。

当克劳迪娅三岁时,波拉德和温克尔曼离婚了,使她成为了独生女,不过在温克尔曼再婚后她有了一个半姐妹,在波拉德与报纸编辑尼古拉斯·劳埃德 (Nicholas Lloyd) 结婚后她有了一个半兄弟。她称父母是“令人难以置信、充满爱心且极好的父母,他们从未希望我成为除我自己以外的任何人”。

她主要与波拉德生活在一起,波拉德是犹太人大屠杀幸存者的女儿,家里走廊总是放着一个行李箱,以备需要快速逃离。

温克尔曼说她的母亲是一位“卓越的女性主义者”。她从母亲那里学会了坚毅和耐力。她回忆起一次令人难忘的反驳,当时她想要一个芭比娃娃:“别荒唐了。你不应该长成那样。”

温克尔曼的父亲巴里培养了她终身对艺术的热爱。每个周末他都会带她去国家美术馆,并规定他们只能看一幅画。“这让我对艺术产生了渴望和饥渴,”她说。

她在 A-level 阶段选择了艺术史,认为这是一个“穿渔网袜、抽烟并与男孩们混在一起”的好方法,但随后她爱上了这个学科,并前往剑桥大学深造。在那里,她也逐渐热爱起时尚,并开始塑造她标志性的古铜色皮肤和浓黑眼线造型。

她说,她对晒黑如此痴迷,以至于在卧室里放了一台租来的

克劳迪娅

温克尔曼

出生 1972

母校

剑桥大学

工作 30 年

电视主持

家庭 与克里斯·赛基尔 (Kris Thykier) 结婚,

三个孩子

日光浴床,并且睡在地板上。此后,温克尔曼用假晒替代了日光浴床。杨说,在 20 年里,她“很少见过”朋友自然的肤色。“她对晒黑简直着迷。”温克尔曼对艺术同样投入,尽管她对此保持低调。温克尔曼目前担任受托人的大英博物馆内部人士表示,这位电视主持人希望参与其中的程度令他们感到惊讶。馆长尼古拉斯·库利南 (Nicholas Cullinan) 表示,温克尔曼对赞美这些作品有着“真正的热情

“那些能够成为大型节目核心灵魂的人,拥有的是罕见的天赋”

📄 外文原文 ↗

博物馆员工。她帮助启动了我们的年度员工奖,并且一直深度参与其中。”

当被问及是否愿意主持艺术展时,温克尔曼担心这会惹恼那些将她视为《舞动奇迹》(Strictly)中“那个穿橙色衣服的女孩”的观众。“我水平不够。我想尝试,但我不想展现太多版本的自己。”

她的许多版本都已绽放。当时 BBC One 节目单主管丹尼·科恩(Danny Cohen)在给温克尔曼《舞动奇迹》的工作机会时告诉她:“你的刘海太长了。我们年轻时都想当哥特风,对吧?但后来我们成熟了。”温克尔曼在第一场节目中采用了侧分发型并穿着一件粉色连衣裙。“最糟糕的是,当时的妆容完全是自然风。太可怕了,”她说。

她的造型师西妮德·麦基弗里(Sinead McKeefry)表示,在开始与温克尔曼合作时,她穿着裹身裙,因为“这就是女主持人应该有的样子”。

但观众并不需要一个低调版的温克尔曼才会爱上

Andy Bunday 插图

她。她的风格演变反映了她对自己的自信——将她的朋克装扮、深色眼线和标志性刘海在电视历史上固定了下来。

“克劳迪娅是一个关于如何过好生活的绝佳榜样,”麦基弗里说。“她并不太把自己当回事。她教会了我不要过于拘泥。”她也从温克尔曼那里学到,你可以对待工作非常认真,但同时在工作中寻找乐趣。

温克尔曼与戴利(Daly)一起在 2025 年离开了《舞动奇迹》,并表示:“在完全准备好离开之前就离开派对是最好的。”《叛徒》在 2022 年向她发出邀请,并迅速成为 BBC 最成功的电视节目,去年的名人赛决赛吸引了 1300 万观众。她短暂主持《克劳迪娅·温克尔曼秀》的插曲仅仅证明了她的人性化一面。该节目收到的评价并不算热情,在播出七集后被取消。温克尔曼说她当时“太紧张而无法享受其中”。

杨(Young)认为人们没有意识到温克尔曼有多幽默。“她拥有任何真正幽默的人所具备的节奏感和直觉。她能迅速切入要点,而且如果她认为能引起笑声,她就不怕说出来,无论多么离经叛道。”

杨说她经常告诉温克尔曼:“你站在这些男人身边,笑着为他们的台词鼓掌,但你比他们任何一个人都幽默,这真的让我很生气。”

她很高兴她的朋友已经达到了“人们知道她是明星”的阶段,但她说温克尔曼不会渴望更多的名声。她“为家庭而生活,为家庭而呼吸”。

温克尔曼在 2000 年与电影制片人克里斯·赛基尔(Kris Thykier)结婚。“当我想到克劳迪娅时,”杨说,“我想起的是她在厨房里和孩子们以及丈夫在一起的样子,还有她的狗。”

她与赛基尔育有三个孩子。2014 年,她的二女儿马蒂尔达(Matilda)在邻居家穿着的万圣节服装起火。当时八岁的她被严重烧伤。

“我们无法帮她灭火,”温克尔曼当时说。“她的连裤袜融进了皮肤里。”

温克尔曼一直将私人生活保密,但她出现在电视屏幕上,恳请修改关于儿童服装易燃性的法律。自 2015 年起,易燃性测试已成为强制性要求。

温克尔曼在 2025 年获得了 OBE 勋章,而本周首播的《名人叛徒》成为了英国电视史上任何系列节目中观看人数最多的首集。但杨说,即便温克尔曼现在名满天下,她的梦想依然回归家庭。“我知道她会希望什么:希望她的孩子们都健康快乐,”她说。

做空安然公司的投资者警告:AI的巨额债务问题可能引发另一次崩盘

📄 外文原文 ↗

吉姆·查诺斯(Jim Chanos)正在押注那些被他称为“高杠杆数据中心房东”的公司将会下跌。他在接受巴尼·麦金泰尔(Barney Macintyre)采访时表示,关键参与者的“创意会计”手段是一个更令人担忧的问题。

这位曾因预言并从2001年能源贸易商安然公司(Enron)的崩溃中获利而闻名的做空者表示,用于构建AI基础设施的债务日益增加,到2028年可能会成为金融系统的系统性风险。

吉姆·查诺斯的公司曾押注特斯拉(Tesla)、Wirecard以及中国房地产行业下跌。他在接受《观察者报》采访时表示,他正在做空“大多数新云公司(neoclouds)”——即出租AI计算能力的规模较小的公司——因为它们“被视为科技成长股,而实际上它们是高杠杆的房东”。

许多新云公司是前比特币挖矿公司,它们通过大量借贷转向购买AI芯片和数据中心土地,然后将计算能力出租给OpenAI等公司。包括CoreWeave、Nebius和TeraWulf在内的新云公司都成为了做空者的目标,后者押注这些租赁资产的需求将会下降。

查诺斯并非唯一一个押注AI下跌的反向投资者。在电影《大空头》中由克里斯蒂安·贝尔饰演的投资者迈克尔·伯里(Michael Burry)本周表示,他正在将其针对AI巨头英伟达(Nvidia)和Palantir的空头头寸“提前时间线”。

更权威的机构也对目前支撑数据中心建设的债务水平以及关键参与者之间的亲密关系感到担忧。本周,英格兰银行警告称,由于“与人工智能相关的债务发行量迅速增加”,存在“剧烈回调”的风险。私募巨头KKR的信贷共同负责人表示,他认为“没有足够多的人在讨论如果AI增长放缓可能带来的波动性”。

自2023, 以来,人们一直将其称为泡沫,但AI贸易的投资依然在猛增。伯里做空的计算公司之一美光(Micron)公布的业绩显示,其季度营收同比增长379%。

但成本之高令人震惊。咨询公司贝恩公司(Bain & Company)估计,到2031年,AI基础设施及其维护的年度支出可能达到$1.5tn (£1.14tn)。假设这项支出约占销售额的四分之一,那么市场年规模需要达到$6tn。如果这笔收入无法实现呢?根据PNC的数据,拥有付费AI订阅服务的美国家庭比例仅为2.2%。套用激进投资者比尔·阿克曼(Bill Ackman)在2008年崩盘前的说法:这次是谁在接盘?

奇点还是循环?

📄 外文原文 ↗

AI 贸易核心公司之间错综复杂的互惠交易引发了关于“循环”融资和“供应商”融资的指责——即卖家直接向其产品的买家提供贷款。

Anthropic 与 SpaceX 之间表现出一种共生关系。它通过向 Cursor 提供编程服务产生了一部分收入(Cursor 是一款由埃隆·马斯克公司拥有的 AI 驱动代码编辑器),而其最大的单项运营成本是每月 12.5亿美元 的交易,用于访问 SpaceX 位于田纳西州的 Colossus 1 数据中心。

上周泄露的 Anthropic IPO 招股说明书中的细节未能缓解人们对前沿实验室依赖赞助的担忧。数据显示,其 47% 的客户销售额是通过云合作伙伴亚马逊和谷歌实现的。芯片供应商博通(Broadcom)已同意向 Anthropic 提供高达 420亿美元 的贷款,用于资助基础设施支出。文件中指出,该交易可能会产生“潜在的利益冲突”,从而影响该实验室获取计算资源的能力。

Ramp 的首席经济学家 Ara Kharazian 表示:“AI 已经向那些大量使用它的高技术公司证明了其价值……问题在于,1% 的公司无法可持续地推动这些增长预测。OpenAI💡 和 Anthropic 都没有在非技术企业中取得实质性进展。”

处于这个网络中心的是英伟达(Nvidia),查诺斯(Chanos)称其对这次繁荣拥有“几乎垄断般的掌控力”。他指出,数据显示英伟达在过去 12 个月中获得了超过 1900亿美元 的利润,与此同时,它将 830亿美元 投入到“那些作为其客户的公司”中。该公司发布了一份备忘录,反驳关于循环融资的指责。

“问题在于,1% 的公司无法可持续地推动这些增长预测”

Ara Kharazian

英伟达首席执行官

黄仁勋(Jensen Huang),

上图,在加利福尼亚州举行的

2025 GTC AI

大会上。插图:

吉姆·查诺斯(Jim Chanos)。

Josh Edelson / AFP

via Getty Images

“如果发生某些情况……Meta 将 [支付款项],但

国际结算银行(Bank for International Settlements)经济学家最近的一项研究发现,在 2021 和 2025, 期间,近三分之一的 AI 公司投资交易(按交易价值计算)涉及的目标同样是一家 AI 公司。

一个影子经济?

📄 外文原文 ↗

查诺斯将这些称为“类安然(Enron-like)结构”,并举例提到一项 280亿美元 的交易,用于资助位于路易斯安那州的 2GW Hyperion 数据中心。Meta 和私募信贷公司 Blue Owl 成立了一家独立公司来拥有该中心并借款。Meta 承诺支付租金并弥补任何资金缺口。

Anthropic 和 OpenAI 已成为如此巨大的烧钱炉,以至于它们的资助者——谷歌、亚马逊、Meta 和甲骨文(Oracle)——所公布的回报率在下降。而且,他们正在寻找创造性的方法将这些资金从资产负债表中剔除。《金融时报》估计,在过去一年中,科技巨头通过“残值担保”从其财务报表中抹去了 3000亿美元 的 AI 风险敞口。

AI 巨头之间的循环交易

\*新云(Neoclouds)

系统性的,但按照目前的速度,到 2028 年可能会变成这样。”

他们还将接管数据中心,而 Blue Owl 将被洗劫一空,”DA Davidson 技术研究主管 Gil Luria 表示。“这就是薄弱环节。”

本周,亚马逊推出了一项机制,将约 80亿美元 的高端英伟达芯片转移给外部投资者,以增强其资产负债表。“人们应该始终问:如果这是一个如此绝佳的商业方案,为什么你要试图不向投资者展示这些数字?”查诺斯说道。

债务

📄 外文原文 ↗

人工智能对资本的渴求自 2025年初以来一直在改变债务市场。超大规模云计算厂商(Hyperscalers)正在发行更多的公司债券,投资者通过购买这些债券向公司出借资金,以换取利息支付。这正在影响投资者对小型公司、甚至国家的债券需求。

“这确实是前所未有的,”查诺斯(Chanos)表示。“我们发现唯一规模更大的只有 2010 到 2020年间的中国房地产泡沫。但那是整个基于债务的经济模式。[这种风险] 并不”

上周,日本软银(SoftBank)筹集了超过 110亿美元 的债务,用于资助对 OpenAI 的投资——这是历史上规模最大的垃圾债券销售。高盛(Goldman Sachs)表示,今年以来,投资者已购买了近 2000亿美元 的超大规模云计算厂商债务。美国联邦储备委员会主席凯文·沃什(Kevin Warsh)指出,这些公司现在正直接与规模达 $31tn 的美国国债市场竞争资本。

“利用债务为投机性投资融资永远是个坏主意,”卢里亚(Luria)说。“这从未成功过,这次也不会成功。”

接盘者

📄 外文原文 ↗

如果 AI 能证明其盈利能力,这一切都将无关紧要。但经济学家汉诺·卢斯蒂格(Hanno Lustig)的一项估算表明,数据中心的总收入需要以每年大约 45% 的速度增长七年,才能跟上支出。如果这种情况没有发生,超大规模云计算厂商可能会在一定程度上获得保护。“如果 OpenAI 作为一家公司没有成功,而英伟达(Nvidia)最终拥有了那些数据中心,它可以直接将其提供给另一家模型公司,”卢里亚解释道。

然而,英伟达显然在为所有可能性做准备。该公司在过去一个月中与保险公司进行了洽谈,讨论能够为向新云服务商(neoclouds)提供的贷款提供承保的产品。对于伯克希尔·哈撒韦(Berkshire Hathaway)那些谨慎的人来说,这似乎并不是一个他们会急于接受的方案。

打印机公司与全球量子计算先驱之间有什么区别?

📄 外文原文 ↗

根据官方数据,两者没有区别,这导致英国政策制定者在制定工业战略时,对我们极具价值的前沿企业视而不见。

即便经过近期的修正,英国在过去二十年里的生产力依然相当糟糕。但在一个领域,生产力正处于爆发期,那就是为了应对这一现状而创造的政治词汇。“再工业化”加入了一个包括“重新平衡”、“制造者进军”和“升级”在内的词单,这些词无疑在政治上是权宜之计,但在实质内容上则更令人质疑。

我们陷入这种境地,是因为我们需要培育的那部分经济在国家统计数据中根本找不到。这并非因为产出质量的问题——尽管这无疑是一个挑战。而是因为我们甚至没有对其进行衡量。

如果经济要以我们所需的速率增长,这种扩张将由处于工业最前沿的公司来实现。在人工智能(AI)、生物技术和量子计算等领域工作的公司将创造推动我们经济前进的发明和创新。这些前沿企业是经济中生产力最高的部分。平均而言,其每位员工的产出比非前沿公司的员工高出 60%,并且在我们的工业组合中超过了所有其他部门。此外,它们对经济的其他部分具有更广泛的影响。

因为它们在全球范围内销售,所以能为英国带来资金。这让工人口袋里有了现金,随后他们会在商业街上消费。来自 The Data City 的一项新研究通过企业自我描述的语言对前沿公司进行分类,结果表明这种乘数效应十分显著。英国拥有最前沿公司最多的地区,其咖啡馆、酒吧和商店的就业机会也更多。

政府部长们过去曾声称,前沿公司创造的就业机会与“日常经济”的相关性有限,认为“普通”工人无法从这些公司中感受到任何收益。但数据表明事实恰恰相反。前沿引领整体。因此,能够衡量它、理解它并评估其运行状况至关重要。投资者深知这些公司的价值。

工人产出中位数

2025 年数据。前沿公司约占所有企业的 3%,但自 2025 年初以来,它们占据了所有股权交易的 41%,以及通过这些交易投入的所有资金的 56%。

前沿公司在所有企业中的占比

但问题在于:你在官方数据中看不到这些部门,因为它们没有定义。英国的标准工业分类系统(SIC)设计于 20 世纪 40 年代,针对的是一个由工厂、农场和百货商店组成的经济体。这意味着英国最新的独角兽公司——Fractile(该公司称其制造了全球最快的 AI 芯片)——被归入与 IT 支持公司相同的类别。而全球领先的量子计算企业 Oxford Ionics,则被归类为计算机打印机制造商。

这导致政策制定者在盲目操作。货币政策委员会在不知道前沿领域表现的情况下设定利率;预算责任办公室在不知道这些公司发展轨迹的情况下做出增长预测;而商业贸易部本身也承认,SIC 系统“未能充分覆盖”其试图支持的许多部门。

其结果是,面对我们的经济萎靡,产生的是朗朗上口的词汇而非清晰的政策方案。目前尚不清楚(或许是刻意为之)“再工业化”具体涵盖哪些部门,但即便定义得更明确,政治家们仍然无法衡量它们——而你无法围绕一个无法衡量的部门来构建工业战略。

因此,我们只能在苦苦寻找答案:为什么在过去二十年里,实际工资几乎没有增长,以及为什么人们在投票时转向民粹主义。一项旨在支持改善统计数据的政策永远不会让人心潮澎湃。但如果我们想要走出经济荒原,这正是我们需要开始的地方。在《观察者报》的新闻报道中读到前沿动态固然很好,但我们也需要在经济的统计读数中看到它。

保罗·斯威尼(Paul Swinney)是 The Data City 的首席经济学家

冬日暖阳

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套餐 / 每人 £599 起

假期

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这个独特的目的地常被描述为非洲的隐藏瑰宝,欢迎热爱阳光和自然的人们前来,在这里,温暖的白昼、丰富的文化和充满活力的野生动物和谐共存。

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以为我们有债券问题?对于陷入困境的法国而言,“le spread”只会进一步恶化

📄 外文原文 ↗

分析

Ben Zaranko

经济编辑

在其他新闻接踵而至的猛烈冲击下,如果你没有注意到这一点,是可以被原谅的,但债券市场又经历了一个动荡的周。

英国政府的长期借贷成本在上周四触及 6% —— 这是自 1998 年以来首次突破该阈值 —— 随后回落。美国政府的借贷成本升至 2002年以来的最高水平。然而,由于投资者对这个欧元区第二大经济体政治动荡的担忧日益增加,法国反而成为了关注的焦点。

法国 10 年期债券的收益率(即投资者向政府提供贷款所要求的回报)在周四升至 $4.9% 以上,为 2002年以来最高。这是全球债券抛售潮的一部分,此次抛售是由油价上涨(有报告指出美国正向海湾地区派遣第三艘航空母舰)以及出乎意料的欧洲高通胀所触发的,但法国被单独挑了出来。

投资者购买法国 10 年期债券相对于更安全的德国同类债券所要求的溢价 —— 通常被称为“le spread” —— 在周五达到了 1.5 个百分点。这是自 2011年欧元区危机最严重时期以来的最大差距,当时债券市场的恶性循环最终迫使欧洲中央银行采取干预措施。

“市场针对最薄弱环节做出反应是符合逻辑的,我们已经看到法国的利差大幅扩大,”杰富瑞(Jefferies)首席欧洲经济学家 Mohit Kumar 表示。

投资者还担心,明年法国总统大选无论谁获胜,情况都会变得更糟。

法国财政部长罗兰·莱斯库尔(Roland Lescure)在提交 2027年政府预算详情时提到了利率上升,该预算包括 430亿欧元 的支出削减和减少税收优惠。他的政府目标是将 2027年的预算赤字降低到 GDP 的 $5% 左右,而如果政策保持不变,赤字将为 $6.5%,且 2026 年的赤字为 $5.4%。

“要缩小法国与其主要欧洲合作伙伴之间的利差,这是一个信誉问题,一个信心问题,”莱斯库尔上周四表示,并补充道,“我们有能力做到这一点”。预算提案包括在养老金、医疗保健、病假和公共部门工资等敏感领域削减开支。该国的财政监督机构将其描述为“乐观的”。上周,学生和公共部门员工在法国各地举行抗议活动,这增加了预算无法在议会通过的可能性。

投资者还担心,无论明年总统大选谁获胜,情况都会恶化:极左翼和极右翼(以梅朗雄和玛丽娜·勒庞为代表)在民调中都处于高位。

撇开法国面临的特殊挑战不谈,能源成本的上升一直是今年

(上周巴黎消防员在预算案出台前与公共部门工人一起举行抗议活动。Thomas Samson / AFP, Getty)

借贷成本上升的一个关键驱动因素。油气价格上涨增加了通胀压力 —— 尤其是在严重依赖能源进口的欧洲经济体中 —— 并增加了央行加息的可能性,进而导致债券收益率上升。最近几周,美国威胁禁止柴油出口,以及胡塞武装袭击可能干扰红海航运的可能性,都导致了欧洲燃料价格的上涨。

对能源价格的担忧与对政府借贷成本居高不下的担忧相互叠加并产生影响。法国的借贷水平令人不安,但绝非个例。

“我们认为在接下来的 12 个月里,没有任何一个主要经济体会采取措施来控制赤字,”杰富瑞(Jefferies)的库马尔(Kumar)表示。“明年欧洲将举行 10 场选举,我们的观点是,由于油价和食品价格上涨,大多数国家将倾向于为生活成本提供援助,因此通胀问题将转化为赤字问题。”

对于安迪·伯纳姆和财政大臣约翰·希利(John Healey)而言,本月预算的一个关键目标将是在为家庭提供“喘息空间”的压力与避免触发某种反应之间寻找平衡,以免英国在“债券市场问题儿童”这一角色上与法国展开竞争。

G7 屈服于美国柴油需求,将在 20 天内进行“大规模”释放

📄 外文原文 ↗

Jeevan Vasagar

气候编辑

在美国施压要求降低油泵价格后,七国集团(G7)国家领导人已同意从战略储备中释放 1 亿桶柴油和原油,且不限制出口。

该计划将包括在前 20 天内进行一次“大规模”的柴油释放——这将带来一些受欢迎的缓解。根据独家提供给《观察者报》的数据,基于冲突爆发以来数月间的平均增幅,英国的消费者和企业每天为柴油支付的费用比中东战争爆发前多出 2000万英镑。

根据智库 Transport & Environment UK 的分析,对于汽车驾驶员来说,每次加油的费用现已增加了 2000 万英镑.40,而货车的每次加油费用增加了 £327.51。

欧洲国家面临着释放更多柴油的压力,美国财政部长斯科特·贝森特(Scott Bessent)呼吁欧洲“加快履行现有承诺,并提供额外的供应”。

国际能源署(IEA)负责人法提赫·比罗尔(Fatih Birol)本周早些时候告诉记者,大多数欧洲国家尚未提取他们在 3 月份达成的一项协调释放协议中所承诺的原油和精炼油产品库存。

除了战争相关的干扰外,美国出口禁令的威胁也推高了价格,这威胁到了对农业和道路运输至关重要的一种燃料。作为美国之后全球第二大供应商,俄罗斯的出口禁令也限制了柴油的供应。

乌克兰对俄罗斯炼油厂的空袭意味着,即使禁令被解除,供应也不会很快恢复。

根据 RAC 的数据,本周英国加油站的柴油价格达到了每升 200.01 便士,从名义价值上看,超过了 2022 年 6 月达到的 199.09 便士的前高点。经通货膨胀调整后,2022 年的价格现在将高于 230 便士。

根据 Transport & Environment UK 的计算,自 2 月底美国和以色列袭击伊朗以来,价格上涨给英国消费者和企业增加了总计 34亿英镑 的成本。该分析不包括最近的涨幅。

某些行业受柴油价格上涨的影响比其他行业更严重。例如,英国的农民得到了保护,因为他们为农业“红柴油”支付较低的税率。

红柴油通过染色以与更昂贵的柴油区分,其税率在 5 月被削减至每升 6.48 便士;而其他消费者支付的税率为每升 52.95 便士。

柴油油泵价格已攀升至每升 £2 以上,给英国消费者和企业增加了总计 34亿英镑 的成本。

英国的巴士车队正在迅速电动化,考文垂(Coventry)成为首个运行全电动巴士服务的城市,而伦敦的目标是在 2034年前实现完全电动化。但在货车电动化方面,英国落后于瑞典和荷兰等欧洲国家。

Transport & Environment UK 的蒂姆·德克斯特(Tim Dexter)表示:“物流部门很大一部分是利润极低、利润率仅为 2% 的中小企业。这样的价格上涨具有巨大的影响。你必须决定是承担损失,还是将其转嫁给作为你消费者的企业。”

德克斯特敦促政府优先转向电动汽车和电动货车。他说:“这样做将使国家免受波动剧烈的国际化石燃料市场的影响,并能更好地保护生活成本。”

“我只希望

我能早点买

我的 Stannah

楼梯升降机”

有了 Stannah 的楼梯升降机,您可以流畅地在楼层之间移动,并继续做所有您想做的事情。

安装楼梯升降机意味着在您的家中获得更多的自由与便捷。在 Stannah,我们致力于帮助您在您热爱的地方尽情生活。楼梯升降机是增强独立性、舒适度和幸福感的象征,让您能够享受每一个时刻。

客户在意识到 Stannah 楼梯升降机给他们的生活带来了巨大改变后,经常告诉我们,他们希望早点安装。请致电我们,了解我们的楼梯升降机如何也能让您的生活变得更轻松。

Which? 推荐供应商

为什么选择 Stannah?

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楼梯升降机

√ 涵盖所有楼梯类型的广泛升降机系列

√ 可根据您的需求和预算选择购买或租赁升降机

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即刻联系我们

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交易与收益

担忧新税导致银行市值蒸发 180亿英镑

📄 外文原文 ↗

英国四大银行——巴克莱银行(Barclays)、汇丰银行(HSBC)、劳埃德银行(Lloyds)和国民西敏寺银行(NatWest)本周遭受打击,其股票市值被抹去了 180亿英镑。在财政大臣准备 10 月 28 日发布其首份预算案之际,主要贷款机构被召集至财政部进行会谈,这加剧了关于约翰·希利(John Healey)将对该行业征收新税的猜测。据报道,此次峰会于周二举行,但财政部尚未透露具体细节。贸易协会和投资者在更高税收对英国金融业意味着什么的问题上存在分歧。英国工会大会(TUC)认为,对英国银行利润征税可以将资金重新定向用于生活成本支持,而金融界高管则警告称,税收掠夺将威胁英国作为全球银行中心的地位,并削弱机构向成长型公司提供贷款的能力。

《观察者报》商业矩阵

📄 外文原文 ↗

暴力加密货币攻击创纪录的一年,入室抢劫、绑架和人质事件的发生率更高。加密资产一旦被转移,回收难度极大。Crimestoppers 正在为有关索利哈尔(Solihull)袭击事件的新线索提供 1 万英镑 奖励。

恐慌的投资者在德国寻找避风港

📄 外文原文 ↗

本周,投资者纷纷涌向德国和瑞士,以寻求远离市场动荡的避风港。随着法国政府借贷成本跃升至数十年来的高点(见第 41 页),德国的借贷成本则有所下降。德国在历史上一直对其借贷采取较为严格的控制,部分原因是其宪法中的“债务刹车”机制,因此被认为比其邻国更安全。瑞士的借贷成本同样下降,瑞士法郎的价值在类似动态的推动下上涨。ING 货币策略师弗朗切斯科·佩索莱(Francesco Pesole)表示:“当欧元区的债务风险激增时,法郎总是首选的避风港。”

Greggs 销售额增长但裁员在即

📄 外文原文 ↗

Greggs 报告称,2026年第三季度总销售额增长了 7.7%,同店销售额增长了 3.4%。该公司将 8 月和 9 月交易条件的改善归功于更好的天气,并表示包括新款抹茶和樱桃柠檬味在内的冰饮深受顾客喜爱。但对于 Greggs 的员工来说,消息则不那么乐观:该连锁店已宣布计划重组其制造业务,预计将导致 740 个工作岗位流失以及多个场地的关闭。这家烘焙店的首席执行官罗伊辛·库里(Roisin Currie)警告称,市场状况“具有挑战性”,且油价上涨将传导至配送成本。

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热门商品

英国通过插电式太阳能降低开支

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随着天然气和电价持续上涨,英国住户正抢购插电式太阳能电池板以降低账单开支。政府在 8 月底将插电式太阳能电池板合法化。这些套件无需专业安装,每套可产生高达 800W 的电量,可满足普通家庭电量需求的 20%。未使用的电量可回传至电网。根据 Octopus Energy 的数据,平均每位客户每年可节省高达 £150。该公司报告称,过去一个月对插电式太阳能的需求如此强劲,以至于不得不两次补货。

新车市场继续加速

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根据汽车制造商和贸易商协会(SMMT)的初步数据,英国新车市场继续强劲表现,9月份实现了连续第10个月的增长。本月新车注册量比去年同期增长了 $12\%$。Pantheon Macroeconomics 的经济学家 Robert Wood 和 Elliot Jordan-Doak 写道:“私家车注册量的再次强劲增长表明,消费者仍有足够的信心在能源价格冲击中继续消费”。纯电动汽车的市场份额达到了 $28.3\%$——表现强劲,但仍低于政府零排放车辆指令中规定的 $33\%$ 的法定目标。被昵称为“Temu版路虎揽胜”的 Jaecoo 7, 在 9 月再次成为最受欢迎的新车,凸显了英国对价格极具竞争力的中国车型的热情。

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风险雷达

针对投资者的暴力加密货币袭击增加

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针对加密货币投资者的被称为“扳手袭击”(wrench attacks)的暴力盗窃事件正在增加。随着

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下周预告...

公司动态

📄 外文原文 ↗

周一:Meta、X、TikTok 在高等法院对英国通信管理局(Ofcom)提出挑战。周二:英国金融行为监管局(FCA)年度公开会议。周四:特易购(Tesco)业绩公布,百事公司(PepsiCo)业绩公布。

● 经济数据 / 报告

周一:新车注册月度数据。

周三:国际货币基金组织(IMF)总裁克里斯塔利娜·格奥尔基耶娃(Kristalina Georgieva)在泰国发表讲话。周四:英格兰银行行长安德鲁·贝利(Andrew Bailey)、首席经济学家休·皮尔(Huw Pill)、货币政策副行长克莱尔·隆巴德利(Clare Lombardelli)以及委员会成员梅根·格林(Megan Greene)发表讲话。

加密货币价值的增加,导致通过武力夺取数字资产的抢劫报告在美国、英国和法国蔓延,这些国家目前的袭击数量最多。最近的一篇 BBC 报道详细描述了一名商人西米德兰兹郡索利哈尔镇(Solihull)遭遇的残暴入室抢劫和袭击。窃贼威胁说,除非他交出数字钱包,否则将杀死他尚未出生的孩子。研究机构 Chainalysis 发现,截至 6 月的一年内共有 3000万美元 (2300 万英镑) 被盗。该机构估计 2026 年可能会成为最糟糕的

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风云人物

英格兰银行经济学家称应提高利率

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下方所示的美国经济学家兼英格兰银行利率制定者凯瑟琳·曼(Catherine Mann)上周表示,央行需要提高利率以维持在市场中的信誉。在英格兰银行货币政策委员会的最近两次会议上,她

与维持利率不变的多数决定持不同意见,两次均投票支持增加 0.25%。曼被视为某种程度上的通胀“鹰派”,她认为金融条件过于宽松,无法遏制由能源价格上涨注入的通胀压力,且政策制定者不能依赖金融市场来替他们完成工作。油气价格的上涨可能会在委员会 11 月 5 日下次会议时,促使其他决策者转向曼的立场。

关键统计数据

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8.9m

《名人叛徒》(The Celebrity Traitors)第二季首集的观众人数,打破了此前《叛徒》的收视记录。在计入点播观众后,观众人数将进一步增长。

2200 万英镑

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《叛徒》系列剧拍摄为苏格兰经济带来的增长。该剧的英国版、美国版和名人版促进了当地经济,提供了大量制作岗位。《叛徒》英国版第四季于今年 1 月底完结,其中还包括一次零售推广,品牌产品创造了 200万英镑 的收入。

£2.5

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根据最新的政府数据,2024-25年度向创意产业支付的税收减免金额为25亿英镑。其中,7.02 亿英镑m与电影相关,9.36 亿英镑m与高端电视相关。该减免政策允许符合条件的公司降低其税单。电影和电视制作公司在国际上具有高度的流动性,而该减免政策旨在吸引它们来到英国。

23k

根据新公布的政府估算,2024 和 2025, 之间,从事电影、电视、广播和音乐行业的人数增长了23k。这相当于增长了11.1%,而整个经济的增长率为1.1%。

£4

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英国独立电视部门的总收入在2025, 达到38亿英镑,比前一年增长了4%。由贸易团体Pact进行的该行业年度普查显示,国际电视收入增长了16%,达到16亿英镑,抵消了国内收益的轻微下降。

国内收入下降。

第二波“回归未来”食品的新利基市场

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位于梅费尔(Mayfair)且布置得无可挑剔的英国皇家犬业俱乐部(Royal Kennel Club)总部,或许不是接待一群所谓“大亨”的显而易见之选。但周二,埃森哲(Accenture)、劳埃德银行(Lloyds Bank)以及吉姆·梅隆(Jim Mellon)的新农业(New Agrarian)投资基金在此举行了一场关于“机构投资者与更好的食品系统”的早会。

传递出的信息很明确:第二波替代食品投资正在将第一波的失望抛在脑后。第一波投资在2021年达到顶峰,在短暂地将实验室培育肉和像“不可能汉堡”(Impossible Burger)这样的植物基替代品推向主流菜单后,于几年后崩盘。

新一波的初创公司(英国拥有相当数量的此类公司)正专注于食品系统中更为利基的领域。其看涨理由涵盖了从提高食品供应安全到减少残酷的集约化养殖。

一个热门话题是监管。历届英国政府一直试图创造一个能让创新食品部门繁荣发展的监管环境。2024, Meatly公司获得批准将其实验室培育的鸡肉用于宠物食品。工党创建了一个运行至2027, 的监管“沙盒”,以帮助加快人类食用食品创新的审批速度。人们担心,随着英国重新与欧盟接轨,这种方法将与欧洲大陆更强硬且通常对科学持怀疑态度的监管哲学发生冲突。

另一个担忧是,在技术得到验证后,创新食品可能会成为英国投资机构未能向有前途的初创公司提供足够资金支持的最新案例。在场机构投资者们都表达了正确的态度。如果他们没有投入真金白银,那么他们就应该被关进“狗屋”反省。

替代食品投资在2021年达到顶峰,并在几年后崩盘。

Linda Kennedy / Alamy

英伟达投入 1500亿美元

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为什么全球市值最高的公司要拨出 1500亿美元 来回购自己的股票——这将是史上规模最大的股票回购?

当内部人士意识到市场低估了其公司价值时,股票回购才最具意义。但英伟达的股价在过去一年上涨了约四分之一,很难说现在是低价。

首席执行官黄仁勋表示,英伟达表现如此之好,以至于它可以投入前所未有的资金来扩大业务(估计为 1300亿美元),同时还能进行某种新型融资,让这家“AI 中央银行”将大量盈余资金返还给股东。

对回购的一种批评是,高管利用回购在没有提升业绩的情况下推高自己的薪酬。减少股票数量会提高每股收益(从而增加奖金)。英伟达向员工支付大量新股,这会稀释现有股东的权益。回购可以抵消这一点,使股票数量保持稳定。英伟达回购资金的一大部分可能被用于掩盖股权激励的真实成本,将其包装成给投资者的奖励。

最激烈的质疑者是投资者迈克尔·伯里(Michael Burry),他正在做空英伟达(见第 38 页)。他说,在估值如此之高时回购股票纯粹是出价过高。其他人似乎也持有相同观点。股价通常会在回购消息传出后飙升,而英伟达的股价几乎没有波动。

伦敦金融城在气候风险报告上的宽容削弱了绿色努力

📄 外文原文 ↗

在推动英国企业绿色化的努力遭遇挫折之际,英国金融行为监管局(FCA)上周三撤回了要求上市公司根据国际标准报告气候相关风险的强制计划。相反,它仅要求拒绝报告的公司解释原因。

监管机构的理由有两点。它表示,强制执行该标准可能导致成本过高,从而损害英国上市公司的竞争力。此外,由于 FTSE 350 指数公司中已有 92% 自愿遵守,为何还要强行推动?

此外还面临来自国外的竞争压力:欧盟正在放宽其气候披露制度,而特朗普政府已经废除了美国相应的规则。随着伦敦以令人担忧的速度失去股票市场上市地位,或许它别无选择,只能加入这场国际性的“竞底”比赛。

对于一项旨在建立有意义的气候风险披露标准的国际努力来说,这是一个令人失望的结果。国际可持续标准委员会(ISSB)成立于 2021 年,旨在结束数十年碎片化、自愿性的气候报告——那些由相互竞争的框架组成的“字母汤”让投资者无法在统一的基础上比较公司。而现在,英国公司可以选择是否采用其披露标准。目前,三个最大的潜在采用方虽然都支持 ISSB,但都拒绝强制要求任何人使用它。

英国金融行为监管局(FCA)提供的证据削弱了其结论。它将 92% 的自愿遵守率作为强制披露没有必要的证明。然而,既然大多数公司已经在这么做了,那么至少对大公司强制执行几乎不需要任何成本,而对小公司的负担可以通过仅赋予它们选择权来限制。这些标准并未被抛弃;当天平重新向企业责任倾斜时,它们可能会被设为强制性。

Boots、Monzo 和 RAC 弃用伦敦股市

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巴尼·麦金泰尔 (Barney Macintyre)

商业编辑

英国上市公司是否正面临一场“灭绝事件”?

这听起来很戏剧化,但过去一周一系列的贸易出售、收购传闻以及暂停的公开上市计划,再次迫使人们思考这个问题。

Monzo 是一家金融科技瑰宝,英国政府曾将其视为潜在的上市候选者,但在一项以 100亿英镑 出售给巴西 NuBank 的交易失败后,该公司转而与多家私募股权公司展开谈判。

Boots 是英国零售业的基石,许多人推测它在公开市场会受到散户投资者的欢迎,但该公司目前正接近一项以 \90亿美元 的价格私有化出售给加拿大韦斯顿(Weston)家族的交易,该家族控制着 ABF 和 Primark。

RAC 已搁置在伦敦股市上市的计划。其所有者选择将其股份出售给一个“延续基金”(continuation vehicle)——这是私募股权投资者日益流行的一种持有资产的方式,由于未能获得理想的价格,他们将资产滚动到一个新基金中。

二十年前,英国拥有 1,700 家公开上市的公司。现在只有 909 家,且趋势在下降——我的同事威尔·哈顿(Will Hutton)曾多次强调这一点。现在,轮到工党政府来论证振兴股市的必要性了。

Boots 正接近一项以 \90亿美元 的价格私有化出售给加拿大韦斯顿家族的交易。Mike Kemp / In Pictures / Getty Images

投资银行 Peel Hunt 的首席执行官史蒂文·法恩(Steven Fine)表示:“如果没有一个良好的国内股市,你就无法获得增长;而如果没有国内资本,你就无法拥有一个良好的国内股市。”

对于寻求流动性的创始人或公司来说,在英国进行 IPO 所提供的估值可能显得 lackluster(缺乏吸引力)。但这是一个鸡生蛋还是蛋生鸡的问题,根源在于英国投资者缺乏“本土偏好”,因为他们被激励将储蓄投入到美国追踪基金或加密货币中。

令人困惑的是,对于那些确实决定跨出这一步的英国公司来说,在公开市场筹集资金其实很简单。

法恩举了 Softcat 的例子,这家英国科技公司的估值是收益的 17 倍,最近从长期支持的股东那里筹集了超过 3.5 亿英镑,用于收购一家美国科技公司。

有迹象表明,英国的 IPO 干旱可能很快结束。专注于非洲市场的 Airtel Money 将进行 \70亿美元 的上市,这是伦敦多年来规模最大的发行,可能会为新兴市场公司来到英国的趋势增加动力。总部位于伦敦的另一家前景广阔的金融科技公司 Zilch 正在筹集资金,计划在 2027 年上市。Waterstones 也在考虑此事。

或许最艰巨的挑战在于如何传达为什么公开市场至关重要。法恩表示:“如果你想让公司承担责任,如果你想要信息披露,如果你想要一个繁荣的散户投资文化,那么也许你确实[需要一个公开市场]。”“股权是永久性的。而债务必须经过再融资或偿还。”

工会准备进军私营部门,全新的白领世界即将开启

📄 外文原文 ↗

上个月,Prospect工会的迈克·克兰西(Mike Clancy)在伦敦南部V&A博物馆为期两天的罢工期间向工会成员发表讲话。

Ron Fassbender / Alamy

Meta等公司在法律变更之前正就职场关系达成协议,该法律变更将允许贸易工会请求进入某些企业

Stephen Armstrong

从30 October起,新的亲工会法律将改变英国工业关系的面貌,可能会增加贸易工会在私营部门的存在感。最显著的是,根据作为《就业权利法》(Employment Rights Act)一部分而引入的规则,工会将有权请求进入员工人数在21或以上的职场,包括物理进入和数字访问。

一些公司在截止日期之前正在达成协议。上周,Meta与Prospect签署了一份不寻常的协议,允许这家白领工会与其伦敦各站点的约5,000 employees就加入工会事宜进行沟通。该公司在一份声明中表示:“Meta的工业关系团队已经在多个市场与员工代表团体合作,我们正以同样的方式处理此事。”

其他人则持谨慎态度。英国商会(British Chambers of Commerce)的人员与工作政策负责人帕特里克·米尔尼斯(Patrick Milnes)表示:“人们真正担心的是,这些变化将为已经面临重大成本压力的公司增加不必要的复杂性和干扰。这些变化与更广泛的就业法改革方案一同出台,给企业,尤其是中小企业带来了真正的压力。”

这些变化包括对贸易工会代表以及采取工业行动的员工的权利和保护。从1 January起,雇主将被要求向工人提供一份标准化声明,告知他们加入贸易工会的权利。

本周工党会议上亲工会的氛围达到了近年来最浓厚的时候:安杰拉·雷纳(Angela Rayner)表示她“出生在斯托克波特,成长于Unison工会”;财政大臣约翰·希利(John Healey)恢复了工会学习基金(Union Learning Fund),这是一个由贸易工会运行的1500 万英镑培训计划,旨在帮助英格兰工人获得包括AI在内的新技术技能。

对于像Prospect这样在国防、技术、能源、媒体和电信行业实力最强的工会来说,培训与薪资同样重要。Prospect的助理秘书安德鲁·斯图特文特(Andrew Sturtevant)认为:“英国公司采用AI的速度非常缓慢,部分原因是管理层在部署时没有提供支持或培训,部分原因是员工不信任管理层,担心被取代。如果将AI采用作为与工会协商解决的一部分,人们的顾虑能得到缓解,且工会可以要求或监督培训,那么采用速度可能会更高、更快。”

“企业理解建设性职场关系的重要性,”米尔尼斯说。“贸易工会在帮助早期发现问题、改善沟通和支持变革方面可以发挥积极作用。当务之急必须是支持职场上的积极关系,而不能增加企业招聘、投资和增长的难度。”

“我们可能有一个两到三年的窗口期来行使这些权利,所以时间在滴答作响。”——Prospect的迈克·克兰西(Mike Clancy)

从第二次世界大战到1973, 英国较高的贸易工会成员比例伴随着较高的生产率,当时约一半的英国工人是工会成员,生产率增长达到了创纪录的7.2%。但那一年的石油危机反转了这种关系。自2000s以来,两者均处于低谷。

在年轻的白领员工中,工会成员身份与旧模式有所不同,通常基于职场政策。Prospect工会在Meta的成员增长始于疫情期间,以及在员工被要求返回办公室之时,随后在特朗普政府颁布禁止DEI(多样性、公平性和包容性)政策的法令后迎来爆发。美国和英国的管理层对此执行到位,删除了关于仇恨言论和性取向的政策。

在谷歌允许美国国防部和以色列军队使用其技术后,Google DeepMind的员工在5月以压倒性多数投票决定由通信工会(Communication Workers Union)代表。6月,维基百科的英国员工正式请求通过通信工会获得代表权,该案件目前处于仲裁阶段。

英国的整体工会成员比例为22%,私营部门的成员比例仅为12%,尽管约五分之一的职场拥有集体谈判协议或承认工会,其中包括大多数超市、银行、国防公司和科技公司。特许人事与发展协会(CIPD)去年的研究发现,拥有工会代表的雇主通常对这种关系持积极态度,而没有工会的雇主则持消极态度。

迫在眉睫的截止日期可能会促使工会迅速行动。“我们在运动中非常清楚,改革英国党(Reform UK)和保守党都表示,如果他们赢得(大选),将废除这一规定,”Prospect总书记迈克·克兰西(Mike Clancy)表示。“我们可能只有两到三年的窗口期来行使这些权利,因此时间在流逝,你会看到工会变得更加强势,因为我们没有时间可以浪费。”

英国工业联合会(CBI)表示:“工业关系框架应当强化协作文化,而非制造冲突激励。企业担心,关于准入的规定不足以防止少数对建设性参与不感兴趣的工会造成影响。”

首房买家股权贷款将支撑新房市场

📄 外文原文 ↗

艾玛·哈斯莱特 (Emma Haslett)

在金融危机后的几年里,政府面临两个问题:廉价信贷推高了房价,导致首房买家难以进入住房市场;同时,房屋建设量处于历史低点。

在2013年的预算案中,乔治·奥斯本 (George Osborne) 宣布了一项同时解决这两个问题的计划。“购房帮”(Help to Buy) 计划提供一项政府支持的股权贷款,金额最高可达新房价值的20%(在后来的迭代版本中为40%)。实际上,这为买家提供了现成的首付款,并为建筑商提供了稳定的客户来源。

为了重启房屋建设,安迪·伯纳姆推出了一个新版本。“你的首套房”(Your First Home) 将为购买新房的首房买家提供20%的股权贷款,使他们仅需低至2.5%的首付款即可成为房东。该计划公布之际,房屋建筑商联合会 (Home Builders Federation) 的数据显示,第二季度获得规划许可的新房数量同比下降了8%,为2013年以来的年度最低总量。

那么,这个版本的计划能否振兴市场?

康内尔斯集团 (Connells Group) 的研究总监安妮莎·贝弗里奇 (Aneisha Beveridge) 表示,最初的“购房帮”计划“相当迅速地将私人房屋建设重启到了我们十多年未见的水准”。到该计划于2023年结束时,英国的房屋建设速度已从每年13.3万套增加到超过21万套。一些人认为这人为地推高了房价,并使借款人陷入负资产状态——但上个月的一项独立审查称,它在房屋建设领域创造了“相当广泛的复苏”。

但如今的情况明显不同。借贷成本更高——自2013年以来,基准利率上升了3.25个百分点,这打击了抵押贷款的可负担性,进而影响了需求。与此同时,伊朗战争导致建筑成本大幅上涨。上个月,英国最大的房屋建筑商之一 Vistry 下调了利润预期,称冲突将使今年的成本增加3%至4%。

该计划的成功可能取决于尚未公布的细节。政府暗示将对通过该计划销售的房屋设定价格上限,并对借款人设定收入上限,但来自第一太平戴尔 (Savills) 的艾米莉·威廉姆斯 (Emily Williams) 警告称:“如果界定得过于狭窄,将无法为房屋建筑商提供足够的帮助。”

“你的首套房”计划给了人们购买新房的理由。Justin Tallis / Getty Images

贝弗里奇补充道:“该计划需要实施至少三到五年,甚至无限期实施,才能给房屋建筑商购买土地和建设的信心。”对于一个正努力控制开支的政府来说,这是一个相当大的承诺。

威廉姆斯表示,重要的是发出正确的信号。“它给了人们选择新房的理由,并让房屋建筑商对潜在销售有了更多确定性。”

然而,政府上周表示,作为交换,房地产市场必须进行清理。在工党会议上,住房大臣安吉拉·雷纳 (Angela Rayner) 概述了限制租赁持有者被收取“敲诈性”费用的计划,并拟引入一个独立监管机构以及针对房地产代理的许可制度。

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📦 已折叠版面非核心信息:气象、潮汐与天文时刻表(《高潮位》— 点击展开)

高潮位

版面报道 123

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来源:© 皇冠版权和 / 或数据库权利。保留所有权利。

1m< / >< / > 南港< / > 04:24< / > 7.4m< / > 17:02< / > 7.3m< / > 05:56< / > 7.2m< / > 18:42< / > 7.5m< / > 07:41< / > 7.5m< / > 20:07< / > 8.0m< / >< / > 韦茅斯< / > 00:23< / > 1.4m< / > 12:45< / > 1.5m< / > 02:31< / > 1.3m< / > 14:56< / > 1.5m< / > 03:59< / > 1.4m< / > 16:11< / > 1.6m< / >< / > 威克< / > 05:47< / > 2.8m< / > 18:12< / > 2.9m< / > 07:24< / > 2.8m< / > 19:40< / > 2.9m< / > 08:53< / > 2.9m< / > 20:57< / > 3.1m< / > |

快速填字游戏 No. 1,617

全球概览 | 今日< / > | 周一< / > | 最低< / > 最高 天气< / > 最低< / > 最高 天气< / >< / > 阿姆斯特丹< / > 11< / > 19 晴< / > 11< / > 21 晴< / >< / > 雅典< / > 17< / > 23 有风< / > 16< / > 25 晴< / >< / > 奥克兰< / > 10< / > 17 晴< / > 7< / > 17 多云< / >< / > 巴格达< / > 24< / > 32 阵雨< / > 23< / > 35 晴< / >< / > 北京< / > 13< / > 21 晴< / > 8< / > 25 晴< / >< / > 贝尔格莱德< / > 7< / > 24 晴< / > 6< / > 24 晴< / >< / > 柏林< / > 10< / > 20 多云< / > 8< / > 21 多云< / >< / > 布鲁塞尔< / > 10< / > 21 晴< / > 9< / > 21 晴< / >< / > 布达佩斯< / > 3< / > 24 晴< / > 3< / > 24 晴< / >< / > 布宜诺斯艾利斯< / > 7< / > 23 晴< / > 12< / > 22 多云< / >< / > 开罗< / > 20< / > 29 霾< / > 20< / > 29 晴< / >< / > 开普敦< / > 12< / > 28 多云< / > 14< / > 25 晴< / >< / > 哥本哈根< / > 11< / > 16 晴< / > 11< / > 18 晴< / >< / > 都柏林< / > 7< / > 18 多云< / > 16< / > 19 多云< / >< / > 日内瓦< / > 13< / > 23 阵雨< / > 11< / > 23 晴< / >< / > 直布罗陀< / > 21< / > 24 阵雨< / > 22< / > 24 阵雨< / > |

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横向

1 艰巨的(体力劳动) (12)

9 范围,幅度 (5)

10 起源于特立尼达的音乐风格 (7)

11 獾的洞穴 (4)

12 使固定 / 使不能移动 (8)

14 昏睡的 / 无精打采的 (6)

15 海鸭属 (6)

18 重要性,强调 (8)

20 二重奏曲 (4)

22 烹饪香草 (7)

23 围住;保护(免受) (5)

24 情感上的父亲替代者 (6,6)

< / > 最低< / > 最高< / > 天气< / > 最低< / > 最高< / > 天气< / >< / > 赫尔辛基< / > 8< / > 14< / > 阵雨< / > 6< / > 14< / > 阵雨< / >< / > 香港< / > 27< / > 31< / > 雨< / > 25< / > 30< / > 晴< / >< / > 伊斯坦布尔< / > 15< / > 22< / > 有风< / > 14< / > 22< / > 晴< / >< / > 耶路撒冷< / > 14< / > 26< / > 晴< / > 16< / > 25< / > 晴< / >< / > 金斯敦< / > 27< / > 33< / > 雨< / > 27< / > 33< / > 雨< / >< / > 加尔各答< / > 27< / > 35< / > 晴< / > 26< / > 35< / > 霾< / >< / > 基辅< / > 8< / > 19< / > 晴< / > 10< / > 19< / > 多云< / >< / > 洛杉矶< / > 25< / > 38< / > 晴< / > 25< / > 39< / > 晴< / >< / > 马德里< / > 16< / > 23< / > 风暴< / > 15< / > 25< / > 风暴< / >< / > 墨尔本< / > 10< / > 16< / > 晴< / > 7< / > 19< / > 晴< / >< / > 墨西哥城< / > 14< / > 21< / > 雨< / > 15< / > 22< / > 雨< / >< / > 迈阿密< / > 27< / > 32< / > 风暴< / > 26< / > 32< / > 风暴< / >< / > 莫斯科< / > 2< / > 12< / > 多云< / > 8< / > 13< / > 阵雨< / >< / > 内罗比< / > 16< / > 28< / > 晴< / > 16< / > 27< / > 晴< / >< / > 拿骚< / > 26< / > 32< / > 阵雨< / > 26< / > 32< / > 风暴< / >< / > 纽约市< / > 14< / > 17< / > 雨< / > 14< / > 20< / > 晴< / > |

纵向

2 裁判 (7)

3 猛禽 (4)

4 与种族相关的 (6)

5 为共同利益而成立的协会 (8)

6 暗示 (5)

7 游历广泛的,经验丰富的旅行者 (12)

8 喧闹地庆祝 (5,3,4)

13 宗教俸禄 (8)

16 响亮的共鸣声 (7)

17 关于犯罪活动的警告 (3-3)

19 材料中的褶皱 (5)

21 前自由党成员 (4)

日出日落

📄 外文原文 ↗

| 今天< / > 周一< / > | 贝尔法斯特< / > 1853 至 0735< / > 1851 至 0736< / >< / > 伯明翰< / > 1837 至 0715< / > 1835 至 0717< / >< / > 布里斯托< / > 1842 至 0718< / > 1840 至 0720< / >< / > 多佛< / > 1826 至 0702< / > 1824 至 0703< / >< / > 爱丁堡< / > 1841 至 0724< / > 1838 至 0726< / >< / > 格拉斯哥< / > 1845 至 0728< / > 1843 至 0730< / >< / > 因弗内斯< / > 1842 至 0728< / > 1840 至 0731< / >< / > 利兹< / > 1835 至 0715< / > 1833 至 0717< / >< / > 伦敦< / > 1833 至 0709< / > 1831 至 0711< / >< / > 曼彻斯特< / > 1839 至 0718< / > 1836 至 0719< / >< / > 纽卡斯尔< / > 1835 至 0717< / > 1833 至 0719< / >< / > 普利茅斯< / > 1848 至 0723< / > 1846 至 0724< / >< / > 斯旺西< / > 1847 至 0723< / > 1845 至 0725< / > |

< rowspan="2">< / > | 今天< / > | 周一< / >< / > 最低< / > 最高 天气< / > 最低< / > 最高 天气< / >< / > 奥斯陆< / > 7< / > 15 多云< / > 11< / > 19 晴朗< / >< / > 渥太华< / > 4< / > 16 晴朗< / > 8< / > 12 阵雨< / >< / > 巴黎< / > 14< / > 25 晴朗< / > 13< / > 25 晴< / >< / > 布拉格< / > 8< / > 20 晴朗< / > 10< / > 21 晴< / >< / > 里加< / > 7< / > 16 多云< / > 9< / > 15 多云< / >< / > 里约热内卢< / > 20< / > 28 阵雨< / > 23< / > 28 雨< / >< / > 罗马< / > 16< / > 26 晴< / > 14< / > 26 晴朗< / >< / > 首尔< / > 15< / > 26 晴< / > 15< / > 20 晴朗< / >< / > 新加坡< / > 26< / > 33 阵雨< / > 26< / > 33 晴朗< / >< / > 悉尼< / > 14< / > 23 晴< / > 15< / > 22 多云< / >< / > 东京< / > 17< / > 24 晴朗< / > 18< / > 24 雨< / >< / > 多伦多< / > 10< / > 20 晴朗< / > 9< / > 16 有风< / >< / > 温哥华< / > 10< / > 18 多云< / > 10< / > 17 多云< / >< / > 维也纳< / > 6< / > 23 晴< / > 9< / > 22 晴朗< / >< / > 华沙< / > 8< / > 20 多云< / > 9< / > 19 晴朗< / >< / > 华盛顿< / > 16< / > 18 雨< / > 15< / > 24 晴朗< / > |

TUDOR

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BLACK BAY 58

WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND

WWW.WATCHES-OF-SWITZERLAND.CO.UK

Mappin & Webb

GOLDSMITHS

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全家共享的趣味游戏 需要观察员 你能凑出多少个 8?这些多米诺骨牌全部混在了一起。利用相邻或上下排列的点数,你能凑出多少个 8?完成后,为什么不把它们剪下来玩一场多米诺骨牌游戏呢!

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章鱼日

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本周四是世界章鱼日,旨在庆祝地球上最聪明的海洋生物之一。所以,请潜入深海,看看你是否能发现……

□ 一只骑着海马的牛仔蟹

□ 一个 8 号球

□ 一只涂着口红的鱿鱼

□ 一个足球

□ 两枚丢失的戒指 □ 一只长着 7 条腿的章鱼

□ 一条小丑鱼

□ 一只伪装中的章鱼

□ 一个叉子

□ 一条打着伞的鱼

插画:Anita Mangan

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您的每周逻辑页面,包含两道专为《观察者报》编写的谜题

今年秋天怎么穿

📄 外文原文 ↗

在过去的几年里,时尚界被一种类似于创意总监的“抢椅子游戏”所定义。Jonathan Anderson 从 Loewe 搬到了 Dior;Matthieu Blazy 从 Bottega Veneta 搬到了 Chanel。两周前,Glenn Martens 宣布辞去 Diesel 的首席设计师职务,以便专注于他的另一项工作——担任 Maison Margiela 的创意总监。这看起来就像时尚界又一次例行的轮转。然而……Martens 在 Diesel 实现了不可能的任务——让一个大众市场品牌吸引到了时尚圈的内部人士——尽管行业变动频繁,专家们对他突然离职仍表示震惊。发生了什么?为什么是现在? 每年要设计 9 个系列——这是一个令人难以置信的工作量。也许他只是累了?还是有更严重的原因在起作用?在 离职之前,作家 Shaad D'Souza 前往 Diesel 位于意大利那座气势恢宏的玻璃钢结构总部,与这位设计师面对面交流。在一次广泛的访谈中,他们讨论了 突破边界的作品、他令人惊讶的职业轨迹,以及是什么让他选择在成功的巅峰期离开。

在本期男装特刊中,Charlie Teasdale 在 Ralph Lauren 成功的 AW26 男装秀之后,深入探讨了 Preppy(预科生风)趋势的大规模回归。尽管在业内深耕近 60 年,这位“Preppy 之王”直到今年才首次为其男装系列举办独立的 T 台秀,而这次成功证明了 Preppy 风格比以往任何时候都更盛行、更出色。

如果你认为时尚意味着昂贵的价签,那么你可能会很高兴地得知,快时尚(high street)回来了,这得益于几位大牌设计师的任命,以及在不相应提高价格的情况下对质量的承诺。现在是预算有限但仍想追求时尚的最佳时机。

感谢阅读。我们希望本期内容能为你的衣橱选择带来灵感。

Helen Seamons

时尚编辑

封面图片:Federico Ciamei

The Observer Magazine • 22 Berners Street,

London W1T 3LP • magazine@observer.co.uk.

Printed at Walstead Bicester Ltd, Chaucer Business Park, Launton Road, Bicester, OX26 4QZ

(3) Stonethence (4) Saffron (5). The War of the Woods (6) Sheffield Wednesday (7) Facebook (8), Paris, London, Milan, New York (9) Black II) Prompanate, 12) Tejon (13) Slovenia (14) Edward Encinful (15) Cat (16) Nottingham (17) The 400 Blues (18) The revolution

选购男装快时尚精选,第 23 页

撰稿人

Mark Anthony Fox

(家居,第 29 页)

Mark 是一位摄影师,以其对室内、建筑和生活方式的感性处理方式而闻名。

如果你能和任何人交换衣橱,你会选择谁?

“毫无疑问,保罗·纽曼(Paul Newman)!”

Matilda Hill-Jenkins

📄 外文原文 ↗

(面对面一小时,第 9 页)

Matilda 是一位常驻伦敦的摄影师,她创作的亲密摄影作品专注于连接、社区和工艺。

如果你一生只能穿一条牛仔裤,会是哪一条?

“一条几年前我为了一个朋友在 eBay 上买的复古白色 Wrangler 牛仔裤。当时我想鼓励她购买二手衣物。我们仔细量了她的尺寸,但还是不合适……我把裤子带回家,发现它们竟然完美契合我的身材!现在它们是我穿得最多的一条。”

Charlie Teasdale

📄 外文原文 ↗

Charlie Feasiture

(Preppy 时尚,第 24 页)

Charlie 是一位记者兼作家,为包括《Esquire》、《金融时报》和《华尔街日报》在内的出版物报道风格、文化和生活方式。

本季的 Preppy 趋势中,你会借鉴哪件单品?

“我非常喜欢 J Press 那些苏格兰制造的 Shaggy Dog 毛衣。”

Federico Ciamei

📄 外文原文 ↗

(Glenn Martens, 第14页)

Federico 是一位出生于罗马、定居米兰的摄影师。他喜欢拍摄人们从事自己热爱之事的瞬间,前往他不熟悉的地方,以及享受慵懒、缓慢的早餐。你买过最成功的时尚单品是什么?“在东京一家小店买的一条裤子。现在我想买第二条,但上面没有任何品牌标识,我也记不清那家店在哪里了。所以我穿它非常小心,只在特殊场合穿。”

Shaad d'Souza

(Glenn Martens, 第14页)

Shaad 是基于 Instagram 的出版物《Shaad Magazine》的编辑,同时也是《纽约时报》、《Vogue》、《GQ》等众多刊物的撰稿人。

你会(或曾经)从你父亲那里借用哪件衣服?

“我拿走了我父亲所有最好的东西,然后迅速地把它们弄丢或弄坏了。抱歉,爸爸!”

我们忘记了收到一份意外小礼物的喜悦

📄 外文原文 ↗

前几天,我的朋友 Chris 来吃早餐,给我带来了一份迟到的生日礼物,小巧、完美且精美:一个印有已停产威士忌品牌标志的古董烟灰缸,他在普里姆罗斯山(Primrose Hill)一个非常小的法国市场上发现的。这是一个极其华丽的物件——乳白色的玻璃,印着星条旗风格的红蓝字体——而且,尽管我只有在向人们炫耀时才会抽烟,但这件东西简直太像我的风格了,而被看见即是被爱。我看到它时惊叹不已。“我可以用它来烧小香锥,”我说,因为这就是和我一起玩时的样子。“我可以把它放在——嗯,客厅吧?或者:实际上,放在我卧室的边柜上可能很不错。”在说了这么多之后,Chris 平静地告诉我,我想把它放在哪里都可以,真的没关系,他不需要听我大声地把所有思考过程都说出来,但他很高兴我大致上喜欢这个东西。

我主张在生活中增加一些“体贴的小礼物”能量,因为赠送它们和收到它们一样有趣。

Chris 有这个习惯:去年他带来了一副扑克牌,因为他听我说过一次我喜欢酷酷的扑克牌(确实喜欢)。在跨越两年的时间里,他总共花费了 £10,就让我完全地感到愉悦;在写这段话时,我意识到我也应该回赠他一些美好的东西。但这就是小礼物的乐趣:你在不经意间看到某个朋友可能会喜欢的东西,把它买下来,留到下次见面时送给他们。或者像我的朋友们度假时那样,记得寄一些搞笑的明信片,字迹因为在海滩喝醉了而显得凌乱且圆圈状,然后在几周后作为惊喜出现,你能感觉到他们写的时候在傻傻地大笑。

我经常在二手书店买一叠明信片——我很自命不凡,我们可以承认这一点——而且我喜欢购买我已经拥有但装帧精美的书籍,在里面写些东西,用棕色包装纸整齐地包裹起来,作为惊喜寄给我的朋友们。如果你在类似的事情上花费超过十英镑,那你就搞砸了。

我认为像我们现在这样时刻在线的沟通方式(你知道的,手机、电子邮件、Slack)让我们忘记了礼物。当有人过生日时,我只需要发一条有趣的“hb”短信就完事了。但物件,真实的物件,承载着某种神秘的东西,并注入了它们自己的情感能量。一份礼物永远是一份礼物。

我主张在生活中增加一些“体贴的小礼物”能量,因为赠送它们和收到它们一样有趣,而且这能让你在周日除了快速阅读杂志的这一部分然后去看更好的内容之外,还有事情可做。今天就试一次吧:带着口袋里沉甸甸的 50 便士硬币去参加后备箱集市,为好友买一些疯狂的小玩意。我保证你会感到愉悦。 ●

汉娜·克罗斯比的生活选择 (LIFE CHOICES BY HANNAH CROSBIE)

📄 外文原文 ↗

一位品味引领者的日记

作为一名长期的网球爱好者,我决定不再在场边观看,而是亲自参与其中。我通过在我的

下周我们将练习反手球。“这样你就能两边都打得开了,”我的教练一边翻看手机一边说道,他并未意识到自己刚刚贡献了一个绝佳的笑点。我觉得仅凭经历这一刻,我的钱就花得值了——至于运动技能,管它呢。

为了重置我那疲惫不堪的神经系统,最近我一直在听很多氛围音乐。那些频率似乎能抚平内心的粗糙边缘。在 YouTube 上听了多年“适合放松 / 学习的 lofi hip-hop 广播节拍”之后,这是下一个逻辑步骤。如果你也喜欢这类东西,我想向你推荐 Slow Bloom,这是 DO!! YOU!! Radio 上的一个每月一次的广播节目。目前有 11 个一小时长的节目可供收听;最近的一期以《指环王》原声带开始,演变为巴赫的 Orchestral Suite No 3,最终转化为 Rainforest Spiritual Enslavement 的迷幻氛围实地录音。内容虽杂,但大脑顺滑。

嘿,宝贝,你绝对应该看看《寡妇湾》(Widow's Bay)。不,宝贝,说认真的,它太棒了。它有点像《双峰》(Twin Peaks)(那个编剧室里肯定有人在极致模仿林奇),而且它的威尔士之星马修·里斯 (Matthew Rhys)(左图):完全是个顶级熟男 (Dilf)。里斯,他 51, 最近打破了一项纪录;在近期的艾美奖上,他成为了第一个在同一晚赢得两项最佳男主角奖的人。有时围绕电视剧的讨论会让人感到困惑。(它真的好吗?人们是不是只是在随大流?)但我在这里报告,《寡妇湾》确实非常精彩。如果你喜欢新英格兰恐怖风格(斯蒂芬·金、《女巫》)以及阴谋故事(《双峰》、《欢迎来到夜谷》、《怪诞小镇》),那么这部来自美国诡异阁楼的最新作品一定会让你有所收获。 ●

Dr.Mortens

📄 外文原文 ↗

14:30 伦敦尤斯顿站 (London Euston)

19:17 格拉斯哥中央车站 (Glasgow Central)

票种

一等座

一次城市短途旅行。

在前往这里、

那里以及到处之前。

为什么不让

一切

来到你身边?

一个

完美的时刻……

在伊比萨岛的假期中醒来。

我将在一个

俯瞰海滩的

阳台上喝杯茶,

读我的书,吃

早餐,然后

跳进水里。

你想生活在历史上的哪个时代?

📄 外文原文 ↗

这取决于我是以现在的身份去还是不是,因为历史对黑人和棕色人种并不友好。我对维多利亚时代的英国很着迷,而且我很想亲眼看看古埃及金字塔的建造过程,但我会伪装起来。

如果你能与一位名人(无论生死)共处五分钟,你会选择谁?

莎黛 (Sade)。在我的许多创意对话中,她都被视为智慧、美丽和永恒的象征。我正试图让她结束退休,以便有一天能见到她——甚至为她设计服装。

你在生命中的哪个阶段最常陷入白日梦?

📄 外文原文 ↗

在我继父去世前的两年时间里。那时我刚刚创办了自己的服装品牌,我们两人都在家工作。他给予了我极大的支持,我很感激他能见证我的生活以一种令人兴奋的方式发生改变。

你最后一次偷东西是什么时候?

我有些朋友会从酒吧偷玻璃杯,结果由于某种原因,这些杯子最后都到了我家。我本人不偷——我喜欢我的玻璃器皿是配套的——但我确实在处理赃物。

你收到的最后一份礼物是什么?我最后一份有意义的礼物来自我的好朋友,她花了很多时间寻找一张名为

普里亚·阿卢瓦利亚 (PRIYA AHLUWALIA)

📄 外文原文 ↗

这位英国时尚设计师兼创意总监于 2018年推出了一个以自己名字命名的服装品牌。她的服装探索了她印度和尼日利亚的双重血统,并被包括温米·莫萨库 (Wunmi Mosaku)、凯基·帕尔默 (Keke Palmer) 和艾米·卢·伍德 (Aimee Lou Wood) 在内的明星们穿着。

《Back Together》(由 Hardsoul 创作,Ron Carroll 助阵)的黑胶唱片。这首歌让我想起我的继父。当她把唱片给我时,我忍不住流下了眼泪。

你最后一次使用 Shazam 识别歌曲是什么时候?George Benson 的《In Your Eyes》。我知道这首歌,但记不起歌手是谁了。我对 Shazam 简直着迷。我每天都在想,这玩意儿到底是怎么运作的?

你最后一次查看社交媒体是什么时候?十分钟前。我正尝试更自觉地利用业余时间,所以不会总是盯着手机。我画画,尝试过制作蜡烛和写剧本,而且刚刚报名参加了钢琴课。当你全身心地投入到某种创意活动中时,你的思维会变得开阔,你会感到自由。

你最后一次哭是什么时候?

📄 外文原文 ↗

昨天。我不撒谎,我最近情绪波动比较大。更多的是反思和压力过大。我的服装品牌即将成立八周年,对此我感到非常自豪,但我承担的责任也很多。好几周以来,我每天只睡四个小时。

离开派对的最佳时间是什么时候?

凌晨 2 点之后不会发生任何精彩的事情。我是否身体力行?不一定。

如果你能回到过去,你会对 18 岁的自己说什么?活在当下,享受旅程,继续写日记,继续参加派对,并花时间建立自信。

如果你能活到 100 岁,原因会是什么?因为我听从了奶奶的建议,让大脑保持忙碌。在 80岁时,她依然紧跟技术潮流,走到哪里都靠步行并保持活跃,所以我也将如此。 ●

天然石材

瓷砖

及装饰砖

“20年前的美容改造节目通过摧毁女性来重建她们。那是令人上瘾的电视节目”

📄 外文原文 ↗

曾经我可能会安下心来享受一部真人秀,而现在我只能满足于观看关于真人秀恐怖之处的纪录片。你可以从我的目光神态中看出,也可以从我的午餐中看出。

我属于在21世纪初成年的一代,那是“0号码”的时代,是名人皮肤上的橘皮组织被圈上红色“耻辱圆圈”的时代,但即便在那时,涌现出的改造类真人秀依然具有震撼人心的力量。在英国,我们被“宠坏”了,有《不要这样穿》(What Not to Wear)里的特林尼和苏珊娜(她们让女性脱光衣服,并说她们的发型看起来像妓女),还有《年轻十岁》(Ten Years Younger),在节目中,路人会在参赛者被送去拉皮手术前称她们为“老太婆”。在美国则有《天鹅》(The Swan),这部剧被广泛认为是所有节目中最冒犯的,因此在那个将切除参赛者眼睑皮肤视为一种有效娱乐形式的时代,它也是最受欢迎的。这就是一部新纪录片《天鹅:镜后》(The Swan: Behind the Mirror)的主题,该片在那些“丑小鸭”离开家人经历三个月的手术、极端饮食、锻炼和牙科治疗,并在选美比赛中身着比基尼竞争的20年后,重新审视她们的现状。一名参赛者轻描淡写地说,她的叔叔曾以为她被人口贩卖了,而回首往事,她意识到叔叔并不完全错了。

改造类节目要求女性被仪式性地“粉碎”,她的身体,且通常包括她的存在,被拆解并重建。在《天鹅》中,外科医生讨论通过敲碎女性的骨骼来“使她的面孔女性化”,移除“男性化的牙齿”以“寻找她的女性微笑”——你看得越多,就越清楚这种女性特质(以及娱乐性)来自于目睹了

挖掘出潜藏在之下的那个女性所必需的痛苦过程。外科医生解释说,一名参赛者其实相当漂亮,但他的工作是清除所有掩盖这种美感的杂乱部分(鼻子、牙齿、下颌)。如今,《天鹅》的主刀整形医生兰德尔·霍沃斯博士(Dr Randal Haworth)表示:“生活中没有受害者,只有志愿者,”并且睿智地说道:“你们想看的是戏剧冲突!”

他没说错。有50万名女性申请参加该节目,每集观众高达1000万,而关于“揭晓时刻”的在线剪辑则累积了数千万次的播放量。人们常说在车祸发生时会不由自主地减速观看,但这不同,这是一种对现实的某种令人愉悦的双重叠加。这些前后对比的揭晓时刻具有催眠效果,并非因为结果如此惊人,而是因为在白色的牙贴面背后,我们能看到她们曾经的样子。同样的事情一次又一次地发生——隆胸手术、踝部手术、泪水——而每一次我们都感到惊叹。就我个人而言,我渴望看到反转,就像《改造房间》(Changing Rooms)中房主讨厌重新设计后的样子(或者惊恐地看着他们的古董茶壶收藏品摔在地上)那样,但在纪录片中我们得知,“天鹅”们被要求重新拍摄面对镜中影像的反应,直到她们看起来流下了恰到好处的眼泪。

这些女性在三个月的时间里被剥夺了接触任何反射面的机会,这一事实似乎与她们在电视上的重生一样诡异且具有民俗色彩。我想知道,不仅是朋友和家人被隔离,连她们自己的脸也被隐藏起来,这在多大程度上促成了她们旧我的瓦解?传统上,只有在死亡之后为了标志深切的丧失,或者在迷信将镜子视为通往来世的门户时,镜子才会被遮盖;而在《天鹅》的案例中,则是通往“前世”的门户。

这里有一些恐怖的时刻,比如外科医生在隆鼻手术中发现了癌症,以及在揭晓时刻他们戴着歌剧手套的真相——因为尽管外科医生已经对他们的脸做了所有能做的,但他们的手臂依然无法被接受。二十年后,这些“天鹅”们讲述着同样的故事:关于牙贴面脱落,关于乳房植入物移位,以及没有医疗保险来维持她们的新身体或新生活,还有她们的孩子认不出她们,以及回到同样充满虐待的关系中,在那里她们依然被告知自己很丑陋。

然而,尽管我对这个真人秀时代的污秽感到愧疚而哽咽,但我无法忽视这样一个事实:改造类情节就像悲剧、喜剧或探索之旅一样,具有一种极其令人上瘾的快感。这么多鼻子被弄坏,这么多生活被摧毁,这确实很遗憾,但尽管它充满了折磨,它确实是一档极佳的电视节目。 ●

海伦·西蒙斯(HELEN SEAMONS)的风格笔记

📄 外文原文 ↗

男装中对应于“连衣裙加靴子”的方案是单色穿搭:它易于搭配且无需过多思考,尽管它比相应的女装方案需要更多的单品。

在冬季,这种穿搭最适合搭配黑色、海军蓝、灰色或棕色等中性色。这基本上是一个两步走的过程。Step 1:选择一种颜色。Step 2:几乎所有单品都穿这个颜色——瞧!但一些技巧可以帮助完善整体造型。建议从外套开始反向搭配,因为那是最昂贵的单品。浓郁的巧克力棕色现在非常流行;可以用一件大衣为宽松的西装叠穿增加层次感。

或者从一件 T 恤开始,叠穿一件衬衫外套,再加一件方正剪裁的夹克。这些单品不需要完全相同的色调;细微的差异能增加造型的深度。考虑比例以及哪些单品能很好地搭配在一起。混合不同的材质,例如将粗纺或人字纹西装与刷毛马海毛毛衣和羊毛大衣搭配。在单色系列方面做得出色的品牌包括 Oliver Spencer、NNo7、Universal Works 和 Arket。

注意收尾细节。一件色调互补的首饰或一块手表就足够了。银色与灰色和海军蓝很搭,而金色和铜色则适合棕色,并能为黑色增添暖意。在巴黎的 IM Men 秀场上,一件带有对比图案的衬衫被用来打破棕色的单调——这是一个值得借鉴的实用技巧,你也可以将印花换成纯白色 T 恤。关键在于一点对比色的点缀。

我们在这里重点讨论了棕色,但这并不意味着黑色被排除在外(黑色永远流行)。无论如何,单色穿搭在显露绒毛或宠物毛发方面毫无遮掩,因此无论使用哪种深色,请在门口放一个粘毛滚轮,在出门前快速清理一遍。这 £2 花得绝对值得。

服装与鞋履由 IM Men 提供;太阳镜由 Tanaka Eyewear 提供

摄影 BRIAN DALY

模特 IBBY

设计师格伦·马滕斯(GLENN MARTENS)将 Diesel 从一个俗气的牛仔装品牌转变为一个既能吸引大众市场、又能吸引时尚圈内部人士的全球标签。那么,他为什么突然辞职了?

摄影

FEDERICO CIAMEI

在意大利北部一个干旱的工业和农业中心——威尼托(Veneto)的正中央,坐落着一座宫殿。这座巨大的、由玻璃和钢材建成且设有防御工事的空间位于布雷甘泽(Breganze)郊外,距离迷人而颓圮的威尼斯往西一小时车程,距离美丽的维罗纳往东一小时车程,与周围散布的尘土飞扬的购物中心和破旧的工业园区形成了鲜明对比。我在六月下旬一个闷热的日子里访问了那里,那时意大利几乎所有的草地都被烤成了苍白色;当我的司机将车开进主楼的车棚(一个位于绿色池塘旁的遮蔽空间)时,我觉得自己像是被开到了《沙丘》的拍摄现场……

进入内部,迎接我的是一种极具时尚感的奢华:一个巨大的极简空间,两侧墙壁分布着悬空花园;由旧波斯地毯制成的褪色拼布地毯;以及一张巨大的、我敢肯定是被刻意做旧的扶手椅,以呼应几层楼上正在设计的那些艺术化撕裂的牛仔面料。在大堂中央,一名美丽、纤弱且神情冷漠的接待员坐在一张像宇宙飞船一样的拼布钢制办公桌后面。欢迎来到 Diesel 宫殿(Palazzo del Diesel)。

提到 Diesel,你会想到什么?也许你会想到那些过于紧身、色调过深,被撑在肌肉过于发达的男人身上的牛仔裤。或者是家乡附近那些货架拥挤的折扣店,那里经常有前青春期的孩子在货架间翻找,试图寻找一套适合中学的品牌形象重塑之装。也许你还记得该品牌之前那个有些可疑的旧标志——一个英俊且轮廓分明的莫希干人侧影——这个标志至今仍刻在布雷甘泽(Breganze)总部的深色地板上。多年来,这就是我对 Diesel 的记忆:俗气、没品位,且令人沮丧地与主流时尚趋势格格不入。

但那一周我在布雷甘泽——在 38 摄氏度的高温下,我的 Talking Heads T 恤被汗水浸透——因为我曾经了解的所有关于 Diesel 的认知都已经不再适用。在短短几年内,这个意大利牛仔品牌经历了一场激进且极其成功的转型。Diesel 不再是游客的购物目标,而可以说成了商业街上最性感的店铺,并且成为了极少数能吸引时尚圈内部人士的大众市场品牌。其剪裁紧凑且性感;色调艳丽且超现实,依赖于亮色和错视画法(trompe l'oeil);而那些牛仔裤似乎总是、总是能完美贴合身形。

品牌的转型可以归功于我此次前去拜访的人:格伦·马滕斯(Glenn Martens)。这位前 Y / Project 的天才少年,连续几年赢得了“你最喜欢的时尚系学生最喜爱的设计师”这一称号。在宫殿式建筑深处如迷宫般的楼上办公室里,他坐在我身边,将这次扭转局面的过程描述得简单得令人惊讶:“我在 Diesel 最重要的事情,就是让这么多人感到愉悦,因为他们穿着能让自己看起来很性感、觉得自己臀部线条很完美的牛仔裤,”他说道,脸上露出一抹调皮的微笑,“这就是我的主要目标。”

多么精妙的一句话,对吧?马滕斯是一个顶级的魅力人物,你会感觉到他周围的每个人都绝对热爱他。在见到他之前,陪我上楼去办公室的公关人员——三位像果蝇一样紧张地盘旋在周围的意大利女性——一直在谈论他多么可爱,他的员工多么爱他,以及他为品牌实现了多么不可思议的扭转。当我们坐在办公室的一张大玻璃桌旁时,他向我提供水、糖果、咖啡,我全部拒绝了,直到最后他提到了电解质饮料,这确实引起了我的兴趣。“啊,太好了!”他惊呼道,对自己找到了能吸引我的东西感到满意。他解释说,他和员工昨晚开了派对,所以每个人都在喝电解质饮料。根据他做过的每一次采访,我暗示道,他和他的员工似乎总是在开派对。“事实确实如此——这家公司的问题在于我们都是从外地过来工作的。我们都来这里工作,因为我们都住在米兰或其他地方,”他说,“我们都住在同一家酒店,而且相处得非常好,非常好,非常好,所以我们总是聚餐,然后派对,而且酒总是喝得有点多。”

马滕斯并不符合典型的超级明星设计师模板。他的员工似乎并不畏惧他。与一些同辈设计师不同,我从未听闻过他对人类或动物实施过任何形式的随意虐待。i-D 杂志主编斯特夫·约特卡(Steff Yotka)告诉我:“我想说格伦在业内深受喜爱——与他交谈让我欣喜若狂。”她记得在马修·布拉齐(Matthieu Blazy)为香奈儿(Chanel)举办的首秀上,她注意到马滕斯对布景多么惊叹,以及他多么毫不畏惧地表达这种惊叹。“很多时尚圈的人利用自命不凡来增加一种安全感——这是一个非常缺乏安全感的行业——但格伦如此人性化,如此亲切,且如此善良。”

或许正是这种亲和力,让他能够在短短几年内,将一家拥有数百家零售店和数千名员工的公司彻底改造。他告诉我,当他在 2020 年首次被任命为创意总监时,“Diesel 内部有很多人在工作,但他们来自公司不同的时代,因此对于 Diesel 究竟是什么,内部存在着非常严重的认知脱节。”在公司近 50 年的运营中,它在不同的价格区间内试图满足所有人的需求,这让他觉得这是一个需要应对的“复杂”遗产。“当我到达时,我真的认为这是一个非常过时的品牌——坦白说,我认为平均客户是男性,45 岁以上,极有可能是恐同的,极有可能是性别歧视的,”他说。“而我对 的认知停留在 2000 年代我爱上它的那个时期,那是流行时代,一个非常前卫的 。但在那个时刻和我五年前到来之间,它经历了不同的生命阶段。”

他告诉我,Martens 所做的是找回一种能够呼应 在 1990 年代和 2000 年代巅峰时期的语言,“并不是真的在重新发明它,而只是将其重置为最初的家族价值观,”他说。“这一切都关乎趣味、流行和生活方式。[品牌的格言] ‘For Successful Living’(为了成功的生活),那种俏皮感,才是这个品牌的真正精神。”

Martens 在 的工作以显著的方式颠覆了该行业。他直播每场秀的准备过程,并且 $\rightarrow$ “我在 的目标是制作能让人觉得自己的屁股很翘的牛仔裤”

将他的许多 时装秀向公众开放,这与典型的将秀场呈现视为排他性、高端活动的观念截然不同。“这其中包含了一种社区元素——他正在将时尚稍微民主化,使其不再是那种遥不可及的东西,”Charli XCX 的造型师 Chris Horan 告诉我。

Martens 接受这份工作的部分原因是很少有奢侈品设计师能与主流受众对话。“在疫情期间,我想:‘难道我这辈子都要做肤浅的时尚吗?’”他说。他决定,他在 的工作将重塑品牌的 DNA,并将其重建为一家可持续的牛仔公司。当他开始在 工作时,该公司使用 3% 的回收或再生棉;在两年半之内,这个数字增加到了 50% 以上。“我的大多数客户都过着同样艰辛的生活——他们没有时间去思考可持续性。因此,通过像 这样的品牌,你可以带来一点意识,”他说。“但这也伴随着巨大的压力。我们在全球有 3,000 名员工。这是 [ 创始人] Renzo [Rosso] 在我开始进行相当激进的变革时告诉我的第一件事之一:‘如果你失败了,很多家庭明天就没钱了。’”

那天,Martens 穿着他的生活故事。他的靴子属于他的父亲(一名法官),比他本人年纪还大。他的牛仔裤来自 Maison Margiela,他同时在那里担任首席设计师。(这两个品牌均由 OTB 所有,这是一家意大利奢侈品集团,其投资组合规模小于 LVMH 和 Kering 等大型集团。)他穿着一件朋友送他的褪色复古佩斯利花纹衬衫,外面套着一件超大的蓝色纽扣衬衫,领口穿了金属丝,使其既灵活又有结构感,这是他去年与 H&M 合作的设计,呼应了他在 Y / Project 的时光——那是 Martens 工作多年的法国品牌,他成功地将其变成了近年来最受追捧的崇拜品牌之一。

他很英俊——一个年轻的 43 岁——有着痞气十足的特征和凌乱的棕色头发。或者,正如他在为本文拍摄前向化妆师解释的那样:“我喜欢头发乱糟糟的,然后,通常对于脸部,我只要看起来火辣、性感且年轻。不要烟熏妆……更像是你派对狂欢了两天那样。我只想看起来更深邃、更性感一点。”

马滕斯在 20 世纪 80 年代的布鲁日长大:那里有静谧的广场、教堂和运河。在成长过程中,那里感觉像是在远离尘嚣的偏僻之地,因此带有一种童话色彩。“你的现实生活就像迪士尼乐园,”他说,“那是一座非常、非常美丽的城市。”他就读于一所公立高中,几乎没有接触过艺术或音乐,而且在这个总体保守的小镇上也没有太多可探索的东西。“我一直有点像个局外人,因为我已经产生了一些艺术气息,尽管当时我还没有意识到,”他说,“那时我甚至还没意识到自己是同性恋,但在 14、15 岁的时候我被欺负过,因为我有点太古怪了。”

马滕斯表示,如果他当时知道将时尚作为职业是一种选择,他可能会更早地选择它,但由于身在布鲁日,他选择了次优方案:建筑学。在他完成学位并处于实习中期时,他看到了一则安特卫普皇家美术学院入学考试的广告。他一时兴起参加了考试——他知道那是一所很棒的学校,认为在这样的环境下学习会很不错——最终成为了 400 名申请者中被录取 的 80 名学生之一。在那时,该学院旗下的时尚学院已经名声显赫,在不到二十年前就培养出了“安特卫普六君子”,这是一组史上最重要的时尚设计师群体,包括 Dirk Bikkembergs、Walter Van Beirendonck、Dries Van Noten 和 Ann Demeulemeester。马滕斯知道这是一个多么难得的机会。“感觉就像……能成为其中的一部分是如此幸运,”他说,“我真的非常、非常幸运。”

“成为媒体宠儿可能会掩盖关于服装的重要现实。比如,在这种经济环境下,谁会花 $550 买一条 Diesel 的牛仔裤?”

📄 外文原文 ↗

Diesel 2026 秋冬时装秀造型

Martens 最终以班级第一名的成绩毕业,并在让-保罗·高缇耶(Jean Paul Gaultier)的同名品牌下工作。正是在那里,他意识到“当你从事时尚行业时,你必须真正热爱时尚。这不像有些工作你可以随到随走。它有时会让你感到非常痛苦,所以你必须为此做好准备。”

在那之后,Martens 知道他必须创立自己的品牌,部分原因是他“知道[自己]是一个非常糟糕的助手,永远无法在某个品牌工作室里做好辅助工作——我非常固执,在这方面超级烦人。”但也没有任何人会给他提供高级职位。因此,在三个季度的时间里,他经营着自己的同名品牌 Glenn Martens。他说,整个过程极其痛苦。“我非常不擅长任何与数字相关的事情——甚至包括如何打开一个 Excel 文件——而当你拥有自己的品牌时,你必须处理这些,”他说。“我在搬到巴黎的第一年做了这件事,所以我在那里甚至没有人脉,不认识任何人。我一直将其更多地视为一份为了未来潜在工作的作品集。”

这奏效了。2013, Martens 被任命为 Y / Project 的创意总监,这是一个由设计师 Yohan Serfaty 创立的前卫品牌。那个品牌曾是 Serfaty 的心血;如今,该品牌的大多数粉丝可能认为它最初就是由 Martens 创立的。他将其变成了时尚界最受喜爱的分众品牌之一,以及 Z 世代时尚狂热者的定义性品牌,以其不寻常的廓形而闻名——许多单品是模块化的,由于大量使用魔术贴和纽扣,可以完全重新改造——以及错视(trompe l'oeil)设计。

当然,为一个如此草根的品牌工作被证明是很困难的。“我们犯了很多错误,而且没有优先处理某些本该优先处理的事情——比如,确保你总是按时交付衣服,而不是迟到两个月,”Martens 说。在所有者 Gilles Elalouf 去世后,该品牌于 2025, 关闭。此后,它被卖给了一家中国投资集团,对方邀请 Martens 回归,但他拒绝了这一邀请。“看看吧,也许他们能让它复活,”他告诉我。“听到这个消息时我很兴奋。”

在布雷甘泽(Breganze),Martens 告诉我他专注于自己在 Diesel 和 Margiela 的未来。“五年前我来到这里时,我是为了非常具体的方向而被雇佣的,”他说。“他们当时没有 Z 世代或女性客户。现在,我听到的却是相反的情况——他们希望我们拥有千禧一代和男性客户。”他继续说道,“问题是我不是老板,我是创意总监,所以我必须遵循品牌的意愿。对于像 Margiela 这样的品牌,品牌的态度和精神会保护你——你知道品牌代表什么。而像 Diesel 这样的生活方式品牌并没有一个特定的目标客户——它可以向很多方向发展。”

他表示,最终 Diesel 的未来掌握在 Andrea Rigogliosi 手中,他是公司即将上任的首席执行官,也是该品牌自 2018 以来第四任 CEO。“说实话,我们真的不知道,”他说。“新任 CEO 刚刚到任,情况在很大程度上取决于他。我们很高兴这个人知道自己想要什么,或者知道他拥有资历。我们不知道他想往哪个方向走。”

随后 Martens 得知了答案。在布雷甘泽,他对 Rigogliosi 的评论在我看来像是设计师的冷漠。现在看来则像是谨慎。几周前,几乎在毫无预兆的情况下,Martens 宣布他将卸任 Diesel 的职务,但将留在 Margiela,且几乎没有解释原因。

考虑到该设计师在 Diesel 取得的成就,这个决定似乎很奇怪。我采访的时尚业内人士普遍认为,马滕斯对 Diesel 的扭转确实非常成功且极其出色,但奢侈时尚的幻想可能已经开始与一个拥有数百家门店和主流消费群体的品牌的务实现实发生碰撞。“无论是从商业还是精神层面,都没有人买账,”一位要求匿名的纽约时尚顾问告诉我,“我认为成为媒体宠儿有时会掩盖关于服装的重要现实。比如,在这种经济环境下,谁会花 $550 买一条 牛仔裤?”

怀疑者在想这是否是一场交易的一部分:如果马滕斯能让 复兴,他就可以继续留在 Margiela,那是一个更具创意性的职位。“在格伦到来之前, 在文化上已经无关紧要了,他被请来是为了增加其相关性。时机很有趣,因为当时 [古着] 和 Y2K 风格的复兴已经在发生了,”一位大型零售商的前采购员告诉我。他表示,通过加倍押注由 Z 世代推动的 Y2K 浪潮,马滕斯能够让奢侈品零售商对 产生兴趣,这可能是史上第一次。“他显然取得了成功。有一段时间,你随处可见每个人身上都带着那个标志。那个时刻已经过去,但他重新确立了品牌代码,并为下一任设计师的到来创建了一个框架。”

《纽约时报》时尚总监兼首席时尚评论家瓦妮莎·弗里德曼告诉我,马滕斯的离开是一个“完全符合逻辑的演变。我认为他在将 打造成为每个人都想看的秀场方面起到了关键作用——它既是一个伟大的丹宁品牌,也是一个以非常当代的方式真正挑战设计极限的品牌,”她说。“它原本就是一个大品牌,但现在他把它变成了一个更大的品牌。

Margiela 同样是一个庞大且重要的品牌,对于一个人来说,工作量可能实在太大了。如果你想在他的设计水平上进行创作,需要时间。你必须犯错,必须实验,而你需要时间来完成这些。”

时尚界的工作量以残酷著称——很少有设计师能在不承受一定程度压力的情况下,同时管理两个大型且高知名度的品牌。即使是乔纳森·安德森,在多年同时为自己的同名品牌和 Loewe 设计之后,在接任 Dior 首席设计师时也缩减了 JW Anderson 的规模。

“我认为格伦在 Margiela 所做的工作非常有趣且富有创意,我简直无法想象同时兼顾两者的工作量有多大,”造型师凯蒂·格兰德说道。“我认为他将 留在了一个非常令人兴奋的位置。他决定只做 Margiela 令人遗憾,但我相信很快就会有非常令人兴奋的人来接手 。”

匿名时尚评论账号 Boring Not Com 表示,马滕斯离开 是“时候到了”,哪怕仅仅是因为“他试图同时兼顾两者而失去了势头”。该匿名账号称 Margiela 的高级定制一直“很棒”,但马滕斯需要更多地关注成衣。“我认为他的遗产在于他让 再次变得令人兴奋,并使其重新回到人们的讨论之中,”他们说。“随着他全职专注于 Margiela,我认为我们将看到整个品牌拥有一个更一致的愿景。”

确实,马滕斯最近为 设计的系列削弱了早期作品中的色情意味以及复杂的面料工艺,转而追求那些更适合作为日常衣橱一部分、更具可穿戴性的服装。他的最后一个系列虽然可能出现了极其好色的表演者在亲吻和跳钢管舞——以及一段带有高潮呻吟的唐娜·萨默《Love to Love You Baby》的延长剪辑版——但这些衣服是他迄今为止最容易亲近的作品,充满了虽然仍具前卫感,但在日常生活中不一定会显得不恰当的单品。

正如马滕斯在六月份告诉我的那样,该品牌的定位也在缓慢发生变化——从他被聘请时旨在吸引的 Z 世代和女性,转向千禧一代和男性。这位前买手表示,你可以感觉到马滕斯近期为该品牌设计的系列有明显的转变,风格正趋向于更加低调。“我认为他们现在处于一个需要吸引更广泛客户的阶段,不能排斥千禧一代,甚至不能排斥那些在品牌鼎盛时期就穿着该品牌的年轻 X 世代,尤其是考虑到 Z 世代购物习惯的反复无常,”这位前买手说道,“时尚界出现了一个更广泛的转变,正从方向性产品转向一种更保守的穿着方式。”

还有一个问题仍然存在:现在谁将接管 Diesel 的领导权?在撰写本文时,伦敦的大多数共识似乎是,由夏洛特·诺尔斯(Charlotte Knowles)和亚历山大·阿尔塞诺(Alexandre Arsenault)组成的伦敦设计组合 Knwls 已经被列入候选名单几个月了。(Grand 在没有透露具体人选的情况下指出,该品牌的下一任掌舵者“是英国人”。)Knwls 曾一度与马滕斯在 Diesel 合作,他们的标志性美学——极度性感、大量使用丹宁,但整体上比马滕斯的作品少了一些前卫感——与该品牌目前的发展方向相契合。

另一位消息人士则向我断言,这份工作已经交给了克里斯塔·博施(Christa Bösch)和科西玛·加迪恩特(Cosima Gadient),这对出生于瑞士、常驻柏林的设计师是小众品牌 Ottolinger 背后的设计者,其大地色系、有机且具有“酷女孩”风格的设计,为外出装提供了一种解构主义且受运动装启发的诠释。这两个组合此前都未设计过男装;双方的代表均拒绝就其被任命的可能性发表评论。

在上周二米兰时装周的最后一场秀之后,马滕斯本人似乎非常欣喜。“这非常苦乐参半,因为这真的是我的孩子——这就是为什么我选择了... [Love to Love You Baby]。从第一天起,整个设计团队就从未变过,”马滕斯在秀场后台说道,“整个公司都变了,但我的设计团队一直都是同样的人。离开他们我会非常难过。他们真的就像家人一样。” ●

照片由 RALPH LAUREN 提供

加入常春藤联盟

📄 外文原文 ↗

曾经仅限于美国校园,

预科生风格(PREPPY STYLE)如今再度流行,

以其永恒的特质化解现代焦虑

在未来,当机器接管一切时,幸存的人类将穿什么?后末日电影倾向于假设只有最实用的服装才能生存下来。Carhartt 夹克和军队剩余物资,皮靴,以及印有早已在时间摧残中消失的机油品牌褪色标志的卡车司机帽。但有一种观点认为,人类在地下衣橱中仍会为考究的西装外套、条纹领带和奇诺裤留出空间,因为预科生风格不仅具有可靠的周期性,而且在某种程度上是不可避免的。而现在,通过热门电视剧和广受好评的时尚系列,它再次攀向其众多巅峰之一。

“我认为预科生风格从未真正消失,总有某个地方正处于‘预科时间’,”品牌顾问、预科男装领域支柱品牌之一 Gant 的前创意总监克里斯托弗·巴斯廷(Christopher Bastin)说道。“时尚界周期性地认定预科风很酷,然后又觉得它极不酷,接着再次地重新发现它。”

预科生风格诞生于 20 世纪 70 年代和 80 年代的美国沿海私立学校。预科风的前身是战后几十年的“常春藤风格”(即常春藤联盟),当时大学生将美国正式服装——如剪裁宽松的“袋状”西装、奇诺长裤和粗花呢西装外套——与邋遢的运动装更随意地搭配在一起。这种造型兼具节拍诗人(Beat poet)和强壮运动员的特质,至今仍拥有一批狂热追随者。(Teruyoshi Hayashida 于 1965 年出版的摄影集《Take Ivy》也是最重要的男装风格参考书之一。)

传统上,预科风更具侵略性的学院气息。“稍微更生硬一些,更有钱味,”伦敦奇尔滕街(Chiltern Street)上的常春藤风格圣地 John Simons 的共同所有者保罗·西蒙(Paul Simon)说道。西装外套、长裤、衬衫、乐福鞋;立起的衣领和机构标志:母校校徽、以“U”结尾的缩写、昂首或咆哮的猛兽。如果说常春藤风格是通过精英学术界悄然兴起,那么预科风则自豪地宣告其社会地位。

20 世纪 80 年代和 90 年代的预科风由 Ralph Lauren 和 Tommy Hilfiger 等品牌推动,他们奠定了这种造型的基础。它包括(但不限于)带有金色纽扣的深蓝色西装外套、斜条纹“repp”领带、牛津棉扣领衬衫、帆船鞋、便士乐福鞋、板球毛衣、校队夹克(letterman jackets)和橄榄球衫。所有这些都采用了浓郁的台球色,旨在让你在私立学校校园的红砖和女贞围栏中脱颖而出。

这种美学元素并非人人适用。“我一直对穿得像要去参加常春藤联盟校友会那样不感兴趣,”巴斯廷说。“首先,我撑不起来;其次,我缺乏相应的门第。但说实话,如果我读过耶鲁或哈佛,我想我会穿得非常尽兴。”

然而,其他人则沉溺于其中的庸俗趣味。在今年夏天的温布尔登网球锦标赛期间,《英国GQ》的编辑内容主管默里·克拉克(Murray Clark)选择全身心投入预科风,穿着一件双排扣深蓝色西装外套(配有金色纽扣)、宽松的棕褐色奇诺裤和一条网球主题领带,他说这“有点太直白了”。他补充道:“我想要一些冲突感,而深蓝色西装外套和松垮的奇诺裤赋予了它这种感觉。”

我最近也尝试了一下预科风,穿着 Golf Le Fleur 和 Louis Vuitton 的 Tyler the Creator 系列,打造出一种高低混搭的造型。

作者:查理·蒂斯代尔(CHARLIE TEASDALE)

Polo Ralph Lauren 几十年来一直引领着预科生造型

婚礼,搭配一条笔直的深蓝色斜纹棉布裤、一双破旧的便装乐福鞋(penny loafers)、一件质地柔软的乳白色纽扣衬衫,以及一件肩线锐利、带有细条纹的深蓝色双排扣西装外套。我保持了保守的风格,没有佩戴条纹领带,以免用力过猛,但这款 1980 年代风格的外套和鞋子为原本简单的造型增添了一抹《死亡诗社》式的洒脱。

然而,在 2026 年这个怀旧文化时代,它不仅让人回想起美好的校园时光,更像是一剂不羁的良药,缓解了新闻周期带来的阴郁与绝望。学院风(Preppy clothes)唤起的是一段不久前的过去,那时世界还没有现在这样如此混乱且无处不在。这也是为什么 2026 年关于小肯尼迪(John F Kennedy Jr)和卡罗琳·贝塞特(Carolyn Bessette)的传记剧集《爱情故事》(Love Story)如此大获成功,以及为什么在随后的几周和几个月里,男装领域出现了所谓的“小肯尼迪效应”。到处都是反戴的棒球帽、学院条纹围巾和网球鞋。

“怀旧是原因之一,但我认为更多的是关于永恒感,”巴斯廷(Bastin)说道。“在经历了多年的炒作、限量发售、巨大的 Logo 和极快的趋势循环之后,一种感觉像是永远存在过的造型会让人感到安心。”

在品牌 60 年的历史中,拉夫劳伦(Ralph Lauren)一直将学院风(包含在 Polo 系列中)作为其多种美国梦美学之一,但今年,它将干练的校园风格推向了前台,且反响极其积极。劳伦并非简单地向新一代重新介绍旧经典,而是用 Z 世代的语言重新打造了学院风,引入了更宽松的剪裁,并增加了符合时代精神的配饰,如斜挎包和极小且具科技感的太阳镜。“当我开始设计男装时,我被永恒的传统所吸引,但从未被其束缚,”劳伦在秀场笔记中写道。《Vogue》指出,这是本季观看次数最多的男装秀。在过去五年稳步增长后,拉夫劳伦今年的营收首次突破 80亿美元 (59.9亿英镑)。

在其他方面,据报道,牛津大学前赛艇舵手、超学院风复古品牌 Rowing Blazers 的创始人杰克·卡尔森(Jack Carlson)接管了 J Press(另一家创立于 125 年前的干练美国服装店),并获得了极高赞誉。卡尔森计划在未来几年在全美开设 20 家新店,并以菱格纹毛衣、粗花呢外套、灯芯绒西装、橄榄球衫、纽扣衬衫和领带来推动扩张。

在英国,萨维尔街(Savile Row)最具学院风的服装店 Drake's 刚刚宣布将于 11 月与同样遵循常春藤 / 学院风设计准则的日本小众品牌 Beams 合作。而 Dunhill 的创意总监西蒙·霍洛威(Simon Holloway)将传统运动装与精致英国剪裁的融合作为其任期内的核心,他刚刚被提名参加即将举行的英国时尚大奖的男装设计师奖。

那么,如果你以前从未尝试过这种风格(或者没上过美国私立学校),今年秋天该如何入门学院风呢?幸运的是,有一些基础单品。首先是一条出色的斜纹棉布裤,要有褶皱且裤腿宽松。然后找一件蓝色孟加拉条纹的牛津棉衬衫,带有纽扣领,最好是经过多年喜爱穿着而变得柔软的那种。接着,一双像 Alden 或 GH Bass 那样的简单便装乐福鞋,以及一件可以系在肩上的大胆针织衫,以增加活泼感。

“我认为最好且最简单的方法是穿一件橄榄球衫,”克拉克(Clark)说。但这不需要来自时尚品牌,二手货甚至可能更好。“我在 eBay 和 Vinted 上买古着橄榄球衫,它们的领口通常更有质感,且有种生活气息。”

具体的衣物本身或许并不如那种“邋遢感”重要——你希望看起来像是刚从充满松香气息的乡村俱乐部更衣室洗完澡出来,或者像是在 1982 年快要迟到于一场诗歌辅导课。寻求灵感的话,已故且极具风格的大卫·霍克尼(David Hockney)就是这种邋遢、不羁且书卷气风格的大师,这种风格恰到好处地保持在学院风的范畴之内。(尽管“预科生装扮”这个概念可能从未在他脑海中出现过。)

对于初学者,巴斯廷(Bastin)提供了帮助。“预科风适合所有人,”他说,“在这一点上它是民主的。”他说得没错,因为谁穿上蓝色西装外套和一双漂亮的乐福鞋会不好看呢?但克拉克(Clark)主张克制。“只需选择一件单品,让它成为亮点即可,”他建议道,“你不需要所有的花哨装饰,尤其是如果这不是你平常出入的场合。而且要了解自己的底线。如果你觉得自己很傻,你看起来就会很傻。这不仅仅是指穿预科风,这是我对所有事情的适用原则,无论你如何穿着。”

粗针织板球毛衣,£190, Horatio

格子衬衫,£90, John Simons

帆船鞋,£265, Mr P

褶皱斜纹棉布裤,£125, Community Clothing

棒球帽,£36, J Press

校园时尚

打造该造型的简易单品

条纹棉衬衫,£225, Drake's

橄榄球衫,£89, Opensider

羊毛西装外套,£557, J Crew

甲板鞋,£260, Goral

明星单品

📄 外文原文 ↗

高街男装正在迎来一次升级。现在,人们比以往任何时候都更容易以实惠的价格买到高质量的单品——从基础款到剪裁正装——部分原因是时尚界的知名人士被邀请接手我们熟知的家喻户晓品牌。以下是我们从最令人向往的系列中挑选的单品……

时尚编辑

HELEN SEAMONS

摄影

BRIAN DALY

ALLSAINTS

📄 外文原文 ↗

AllSaints 1994年创立于伦敦东区的斯皮塔佛兹(Spitalfields),是粗犷的伦敦酷感美学的代名词。AW26 是新任创意总监 Aaron Esh 设计的首个系列,他自己的品牌已成为伦敦时装周的热门之选。皮革依然是 AllSaints 衣橱的核心支柱,但在 Esh 的带领下,皮革已从做旧黑色演变为新的颜色、饰面、重量和比例,涵盖了从短款、线条锐利的廓形到宽松的 the peacoats 以及合身的卡车司机风格。这也不关乎年轻。“我不太感兴趣于通过年龄或人口统计数据来定义 AllSaints 的客户。我感兴趣的是个性,”Esh 表示。他的首个系列是与造型师 Katy England 共同开发的,借鉴了品牌的历史,为当今的客户重新开发了档案款式。

关键购买单品:

  • Miller 皮夹克,£399
  • 郁金香印花衬衫,£119
  • 渐变条纹针织衫,£199

约翰刘易斯 (JOHN LEWIS)

📄 外文原文 ↗

约翰刘易斯以其“绝不故意低价销售”的格言而闻名,一直在稳步扩大其男装产品线,在自有品牌 Kin、John Lewis 和 Anyday 之外,引入了一系列前卫的独立品牌。秋季新品包括 APC、No Problemo 和 Labrum,并提供来自 Denham、Gant 和 Barbour 的独家单品。正装是约翰刘易斯的擅长领域,其自有品牌西装的销售额比去年增长了 169%。畅销产品包括一套 100% 羊毛细条纹西装。10月6日将推出与 Clothsurgeon 的合作系列,将萨维尔街(Savile Row)的专业技术带到高街。创始人 Rav Matharu 表示,他对于与这家百货公司合作感到“兴奋”,并称“这次合作让我们能够以更实惠的价格表达我们的美学”。关键单品包括双面羊绒大衣和双排扣西装外套(右图)。

购买建议:

  • 修身灯芯绒西装外套,£170
  • Kin 3-in-1 夹克,£109
  • 羊绒双排扣西装外套,£210

优衣库 (UNIQLO)

📄 外文原文 ↗

优衣库以实惠、剪裁良好的丹宁产品和 Heattech 保暖内衣而闻名,在时尚基础款和卓越的设计师合作系列中开辟了细分市场。在创意总监 Clare Waight Keller(曾就职于 Pringle、Chloé 和 Givenchy,并为梅根·马克尔设计了婚纱)的指导下,优衣库的时尚地位得到了提升。业内人士知道,Uniqlo:C(由 Waight Keller 设计)和 U:Uniqlo 系列是寻找时尚导向单品的去处。“关键在于让衣服感觉精致且经过深思熟虑,但穿着起来又完全自然,”Waight Keller 说道。同样不可错过的是 JW Anderson 系列(由执掌 Dior 的同一位设计师操刀),鉴于 Anderson 颠覆性的造型处理,你可以在这里买到衣橱必备的英雄单品,包括价格低于 £40 的牛仔裤。

购买建议:

  • Heattech 羊绒混纺高领衫,£22.90
  • 羊绒圆领衫,£89
  • JWA 赤耳直筒牛仔裤,£39.90

Mwathi 身穿丹宁夹克,£49.90;开襟羊毛衫,£39.90;高领衫,£22.90, 以及牛仔裤,£39.90, 全部来自优衣库。鞋子,£190, 来自 Alohas

马莎百货 (MARKS & SPENCER)

📄 外文原文 ↗

马莎百货已经服务我们的衣橱 100 年了,上个月,这家零售商在伦敦时装周举办了一场引人注目的表演,庆祝其一个世纪的风格。所有 59 套造型均可立即购买——其中一件已售罄的单品是一款大胆的蓝色 V 领针织衫 (£49)。“我们大力支持针织服装,引入了新的纱线创新、更好的质量和更多的选择,”M&S 男装总监 Mitch Hughes 解释道。M&S 已悄然成为以实惠价格购买高质量时尚基础款的首选(男装系列的 82% 定价在 £50 以下)。Hughes 对 M&S 拥有“男性从头到脚自信着装所需的一切”持乐观态度。新季的亮点类别包括外套,例如一件对比色领口的汽车大衣和一件足以媲美高端品牌的羽绒服——以及鞋类和配饰。下次你买虾仁蛋黄酱三明治当午餐时,不妨顺便逛逛男装层。

必买单品:

  • Autograph Supima T恤,£20
  • 麂皮拉链托特包,£50
  • 纯棉蜡染实用夹克,£90

Louis 身穿夹克 £49、衬衫 £49、长裤 £30, 并携带托特包 £35, 全部来自 M&S。鞋子由 Alohas 提供,£150

妆发由 Krystle Gohel 操刀;时尚助理 Freya Goodchild-Bridge;模特 Louis Best 和 Mwathi Gakonga 来自 Premier Model Management

享受曼彻斯特文学节《观察者报》读书会门票 50% 的折扣

📄 外文原文 ↗

作者、喜剧演员兼《The Guilty Feminist》播客主持人 Deborah Frances-White 11 October, 4.30PM

布克奖获奖作者

Yann Martel(《少年派的奇幻漂流》)

14 October, 7.30PM

备受赞誉的韩裔美国作者 Min Jin Lee(《帕金森》)

21 October, 7.30PM

与《观察者报》的 Erica Wagner 对谈

在埃平,一座建立在激进善良之上的开放之屋

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“只是想看看会发生什么,”作家、诗人、哲学家、画家、活动家,以及无政府主义朋克乐队 Crass 的共同创始人彭尼·林博(Penny Rimbaud)说道。他与他的创意伙伴、艺术家吉·沃彻(Gee Vaucher)坐在一起,身处一个像小屋一样温馨的木板空间,谈论着他们居住近 60 年的这座“开放之屋”的构思。他们不仅与彼此分享这里,还与一批轮换的访客分享,其中有些是朋友和艺术合作者,许多则是仅仅请求留宿的陌生人。“无论人们带什么来这里,”林博说,“我都愿意接受。我不想告诉人们该做什么,怎么做,或者为什么要这么做。”

这是位于埃塞克斯郡埃平(Epping)附近的一座名为 Dial House 的散漫农舍。它将他们的无政府和平主义理想付诸实践。他们有两个条件:“我们一直不欢迎在这里使用娱乐性药物,而且这里一直是一个素食家庭。”沃彻表示,在这个房子里的生活是“关于责任,而不是制定规则。如果你看到有需要做的事情,你就去做,比如除草、修理椅子或洗杯子。你不会说,‘好吧,那不是我用的’。”

这座房子是即兴与偶然的产物,自 17 世纪建成以来经历了多次改建和扩建。它本身也“见证了会发生什么”。它有歪斜的旧木梁,承载着它们曾经作为附近森林中橡树的记忆。它有倾斜的地板、低矮的天花板、深沉的阴影和迸发的光线。它的红砖外观看起来坚固且正常,但在内部,房间与房间之间的连接遵循着非线性的逻辑,就像一个情节未知的故事中的各个章节。

沃彻和林博加入了他们自己的元素。他们的创作以及艺术家朋友的作品挂在墙上。有一个浴室是用木制的葡萄酒和茶叶箱板拼接而成的,上面印着进口商精美的排版字体。有一面墙是用图案布料碎片拼贴而成的。这里有感激的客人们赠送的礼物、纪念品,以及来源已被遗忘的物件。门和壁炉上绘有图案和花朵。

这是一个生产之所,一个将创意能量向一英亩花园扩散的离心有机体。沃彻在房子里有一个工作室,那里光线明亮且相对高挑,充满了灵感和进行中的作品。在另一个房间里,她正在为即将成立的吉·沃彻基金会(Gee Vaucher Foundation)整理档案,该基金会的目的是保护她的作品并支持志同道合的艺术家。

室外有棚屋、工作室和一辆旧房车,如果访问的艺术家愿意使用堆肥厕所,他们可以在那里居住和创作。林博在较大的附属建筑之一中睡眠和工作——那是回收建筑组件的拼贴,包括一个从拆除中抢救回来的优雅旧店面和镶嵌着彩色玻璃的门。这里装饰着更多的艺术品和文物,包括一件传统的马赛(Maasai)服饰,并散发着香火的味道。花园里有果树、菜地和温室里生长的番茄,艺术与农产品并肩生长。铃铛和风铃叮当作响。

彭尼·林博在工作室工作。左上:浴室里的彩色玻璃太阳放射状设计。

Dial House 自 17 世纪建成以来经过了改建和扩建,近几十年来,访客和朋友们捐赠了自己的艺术作品。

沃舍(Vaucher)和兰波(Rimbaud)现在都已 80 多岁,他们于 1961 年在埃塞克斯的一所艺术学校相识,后来在骑摩托车游览该郡时偶然发现了日晷屋(Dial House)。兰波当时是一名艺术教师,曾与两名同事在那里住了一段时间(沃舍当时为了独立,住在路尽头),但他厌倦了那种每个室友都有自己的橱柜并按轮班表组织家务的生活。

“我想分享东西,”兰波说,“我想摆脱一切。所以我宣布,任何人在某个周末都可以来拿走他们想要的任何东西。我只留下了一本书、一张桌子、一张床和一个炉灶。”日晷屋的概念由此生长。起初是兰波在采土豆时遇到的一名需要住处的年轻人,接着是他的女朋友,然后“人们就开始凭空出现”。

这里变成了一个用兰波的话来说,“促进事情发展的地方,因为这就是你能为人们做的最好的事情,不是吗?提供住宿并提供便利。当然,如果你愿意,还可以梦想一个项目、一个想法。”他说,从 1974 到 1984 年每年夏至举办的一次重大反主流文化活动——巨石阵自由节(Stonehenge Free Festival),就是在这里与创始人沃利·霍普(Wally Hope)共同“策划”的。Crass 乐队的诞生则是因为“一个来自达格纳姆(Dagenham)的 16 岁纯真孩子来到这里说‘我想组建一支乐队’”。这个年轻人史蒂夫·伊格诺兰特(Steve Ignorant)成为了其主唱。

有时沃舍和兰波甚至不知道屋子里发生了什么。一名女性曾偷偷睡在他们的暗房里:“我们一直看到食物失踪,但不知道为什么,”沃舍回忆道。但他们很少遇到麻烦的客人——那名女性有一次违背自己的原则报了警,结果发现总督察竟然是一名 Crass 的粉丝。这里一次可能会住多达 15 人,而当成年人和儿童在花园里为他们曾经经营的艺术俱乐部露营时,人数会更多。一旦来到这里,除非被要求,否则成年人不被允许干涉孩子的行为。他说,孩子们是自治的。“这是一次人类实验,”兰波说,而且是一次持久的实验。这似乎是一场近乎奇迹的信任胜利。

‘这是一次持久的人类实验,’兰波说,这是一场近乎奇迹的信任胜利

日晷屋花园里的一个工作室

本月,日晷屋将出现在名为《尘世天堂》(Earthly Paradise)的展览中。该展览在沃尔瑟姆斯托(Walthamstow)的威廉·莫里斯美术馆(William Morris Gallery)举行,主题是关于英国传统中维多利亚时代社会主义者兼设计师(即该美术馆的命名者)风格的“激进生活”。沃舍和兰波说他们对莫里斯“了解不多”,不确定是否参加。他们对于出现在《观察者报》上,以及“任何进入本质上属于资产阶级领域”的行为也感到犹豫。但最终,他们的哲学是参与,“打破围墙。能够向他人传递某些东西是件好事”。因为归根结底,目标“就是尝试创造一个更善良的世界,难道不是吗?” ●

幸福指数 尼基·哈斯勒姆 (Nicky Haslam)

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2026年米兰设计周期间,Jane Wright 在 Alcova 展示的蕾丝窗帘

这位现年 80 多岁的资深室内设计师兼作家,将于 11 月 1 日推出其走红的“我发现的共同点”茶巾第八版。在此,他分享了那些让他(以及不让他)感到宾至如归的事物……

快乐之源

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走廊里的一盘饮料。这让人感到受欢迎——并增添了一抹光彩。

装饰应该让你看起来更漂亮。我的卧室挂着没有衬里的淡紫色亚麻窗帘。它们能让皮肤焕发光彩。

镀金餐具。它比英国银器温暖得多,也更让人感到亲切。

我的浴室里总有一把椅子。任何带软垫的椅子,尤其是毛巾材质的。那是我的晾衣椅。

纪念品烟灰缸。任何能唤起记忆的东西都很有趣。

房间里的阴影。如果你创造出点点灯光,眼睛会从一个光点移向下一个——但真正给我带来快乐的是阴影。

快乐杀手

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白天才点蜡烛简直是错误的。

靠垫过多。人们使用得太多了。应节制使用并保持填充不足,这样它们才能稍微摆动。

栗色是最丑的颜色。那种沉闷的红色。

餐厅。你永远不会经常使用它们,而且深色木桌看起来像董事会会议室的家具。

墙上装裱的海报和著名图像太抢眼。

过于追求配套。眼睛永远不会同时接收两样东西。

顶灯极其糟糕;难以忍受。

李静宜 (Jingyi Li) 的《隐藏的抽屉》

由波宾蕾丝制成的晚餐套装

由 Clarke and Reilly 采用 18 世纪梵蒂冈蕾丝重新改造的英国古董翼背椅

Pollyanna Johnson 用黏土勾边制作的陶瓷盘

蕾丝的新鲜奢华

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蕾丝正在家居中被重新编织。设计师 Jane Wright 通过将手工针织与机器蕾丝相结合,颠覆了传统技法。她的网格织物中融入了未来主义大都市的轮廓,绝非怀旧之作。“蕾丝仍然承载着如此深厚的含义,”Wright 在谈到蕾丝在 17 世纪的复杂起源时说道,“它讲述了关于女性身份的故事,以及人们对这项高超工艺的共同认可。”在餐桌布置方面,陶瓷艺术家 Pollyanna Johnson 在黑色釉面上勾勒出液态黏土层,模仿该材质如蝉翼般的精致,并刻上挑战其家庭属性的简洁现代信息。而 Sarabande 基金会的驻留艺术家、纺织艺术家李静宜 (Jingyi Li) 则巧妙地将她的亚洲传承和女性特质融入到经典小酒馆椅的藤条修补中,加入了蛛网般的蕾丝嵌件。蕾丝已成为一种具有全新前卫感的工艺象征。你可以尝试参加每两周一次的伦敦蕾丝俱乐部 (instagram.com / londonlaceclub)。

深度访谈……汤姆·布劳顿在圣莱昂纳兹海滨

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汤姆·布劳顿在他位于 Marine Court 的公寓家中

“我在莱斯特长大,那是英国离大海最远的地方,这可能就是为什么我如此热爱海岸线,”Cubitts 眼镜店的创始人汤姆·布劳顿(Tom Broughton)说道。“在我的印象中,海岸线依然与假期、冒险、棉花糖、小驴和自由联系在一起。”2024年,他在一次日间旅行中,在海滩上瞥见了 Marine Court 那如灯塔般的形态,随后购入了这座位于圣莱昂纳兹海滨(St Leonards-on-Sea)的现代主义混凝土塔楼中的一套公寓。他与伴侣现在将时间分配在两地——这里和伦敦。这次自发的搬迁完全是为了逃离。“这里立刻让我有了家的感觉,”布劳顿说。

相比于同样位于海岸线的迪尔(Deal)和马盖特(Margate),圣莱昂纳兹的知名度较低,但拥有强大的创意社区。“这里的人均陶瓷工作室数量一定是全国最高的,”布劳顿说,他被这座小镇 19 世纪建筑的浪漫气息所吸引。他对 Bottle Alley 同样情有独钟,这是一条嵌入了彩虹色玻璃碎片、沿海延伸至黑斯廷斯(Hastings)前方的混凝土步道。“它契合了 20 世纪 30 年代那种迷人的、关于英国海滨应有模样的愿景。”在这里,布劳顿分享了他在这个选定的海滨家园中经常出没的去处。

① Black Gull Books

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34 London Road

(@blackgullbooks.stleonards)

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“就在主干道上,这家二手书店的所有者收集了大量艺术电影风格的资料,并且经常接收私人收藏。这意味着他们拥有非常独特的艺术、建筑和设计类选集,远超常规水平。书架之间穿插着由当地艺术家创作的家具和艺术品。我经常在这里为公寓或其中一家店挑选一些小物件。”

Sunless

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68 Norman Road (sunlessantiques.com)

“这是一个可以俯瞰大海的绝佳空间,由一对极具眼光的年轻夫妇经营。他们对 20 世纪 20 年代装饰艺术(Art Deco)和 40 年代现代主义古董及装饰品的策划非常出色,这些物品通常来自法国或比利时。我最近用来自 Sunless 的书架、圆鼓桌和艺术品布置了我们新的曼彻斯特店。他们还提供大量精选的 20 世纪早期法国工装。”

Collected Fictions

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Unit 1, 6-8 London Road (@collected.fictions)

“这家酒吧是我爱上圣莱昂纳兹的原因之一。它由两个塞满酒瓶(和音乐)的小房间组成,你可以在这里惬意地消磨时光。他们提供特别优质的天然葡萄酒,以及不寻常的瓶装啤酒和生啤。这里的营业时间很古怪,晚上 9 点就关门,这本身就体现了一种氛围。”

Goat Ledge

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The Promenade, Lower, Warrior Square (goatledge.com)

“这一系列色彩缤纷、极具出片效果的小棚屋是当地的标志性场所。这里有现场(或嘈杂的)音乐,全年开放。食物带有怀旧色彩——鱼条面包和细薯条。那种略显傻气且古灵精怪的氛围,被屋顶上的一个巨大山羊模型概括得淋漓尽致。”

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⑤ St Leonards Gardens

Maze Hill (historicengland.org.uk)

📄 外文原文 ↗

“这里是圣莱昂纳兹(St Leonards)迷人且隐秘的核心地带。这座城镇的创建者詹姆斯·伯顿(James Burton)从维多利亚酒店(Victoria Hotel)开始,在酒店后方建造了这座花园,中心有一个海龟池。花园周围环绕着最精美的维多利亚时代建筑,可以俯瞰大海——它将你带回另一个 era。”大多数人都忽略了这里。

这里有经过 9 个月干腌的招牌甜味。这里有在帕尔马丘陵(Parma Hills)进行的传统调味。这里有无需刻意就能展现出的文化气息。

选择 Deluxe 有很多原因。其中之一就是价格。

£9.99 / kg

Ripe for the picking

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厨房日记

奈杰尔·斯莱特(NIGEL SLATER)

本周烤了一道陶锅番茄,将番茄切成厚片层叠铺放,加入整片罗勒叶,顶端覆盖着一层酥脆的金黄色面包屑,其中露出了布拉塔奶酪(burrata)的乳白色圆顶。我将它们盛在浅碗中,配上撕开的法棍面包,用来蘸取聚集在奶酪周围的番茄汁。我选择了不同大小和成熟度的番茄混合使用。粗糙的马曼德番茄(Marmande)、橙肉番茄和酸甜的樱桃番茄交织在一起。关键点在于,在放入烤盘层叠之前,先在浅锅中轻微煎炸 →

“季节的变换带来了对意面晚餐的渴望,同时也带来了对蘑菇的渴望。我将两者结合在一起”

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放入烤盘中层叠。这强化了它们的风味,使那些未完全成熟的番茄变甜,并产生了大量可供吸收的汁液。预烹饪并非必不可少,但它能带来更深层、更浓郁的风味。番茄在高温下生长旺盛,这解释了今年夏天优质果实的丰富。

这既可以作为主菜,也可以作为配菜,随你心愿。煮熟的奥尔佐意面(orzo pasta)或圆润的莫格拉比亚(mograbia)球将是吸收番茄汁的绝佳选择,蒸褐米或细库斯库斯(couscous)同样如此。我们仅凭好面包就将其吃光了,但这道菜也非常适合搭配烤羊排或烤原野蘑菇。

季节的变换带来了对意面晚餐的渴望,同时也带来了对蘑菇的渴望。本周我将它们结合在同一道菜中,使用了多种蘑菇,在常见的褐菇和白蘑菇中加入了一些鸡油菌和平菇。一种稳妥的烹饪方法是先处理质地较硬、较厚的品种,因为它们需要更长的烹饪时间,然后再加入较脆弱的品种,如纤细的金针菇、杏色的鸡油菌和微小的“仙女帽”鸿禧菇。这类娇嫩的真菌只需在煎锅中短暂加热即可。

你可以沿用这个蘑菇食谱,撒上帕玛森芝士碎并烘烤出气泡状的酥皮,或者加入一些轻微水煮的长茎西兰花或蒸菠菜。(我是配以菠菜作为侧菜,但同样可以将菠菜塞在蘑菇之间。)经济版本可以省去那些昂贵的真菌。奶油部分也是利用保存的帕玛森芝士皮的好地方,让芝士皮在奶油中浸泡一段时间,然后再将其淋在面条上。

在甜点方面,现在有一些圆润的季末覆盆子。我喜欢将它们放入一杯甜酒中,最好是带有玫瑰金色调的麝香品种。没有什么比这更美的方式来结束一顿晚餐了。一个无酒精的替代方案是将水果与打发奶油和碎姜饼(非硬姜饼)层叠,放在冰箱中使其软化。此外,我通常不愿破坏法式焦糖布丁(crème brûlée)的原味,但将几颗完全成熟的覆盆子丢进卡仕达酱中,像寻找隐藏的宝藏一样发现它们,肯定不是一件坏事。

蘑菇耳形面 (Orecchiette)

📄 外文原文 ↗

分量:4人份。准备时间:1 小时

洋葱 1 个,中等大小

黄油 20g,另需少量备用

橄榄油 3 tbsp

大蒜 2 瓣,饱满的

帕玛森干酪 100g,另需少量用于点缀

耳形面 200g

各类蘑菇 400g

莳萝叶 10g

双倍奶油 250ml

将洋葱去皮,从根部到顶端对半切开,切成细丝,然后放入装有油和黄油的炖锅中,用中火烹煮,直到颜色呈浅金色且近乎透明,至少需要 15-20 分钟。

将大蒜去皮并切成薄片,然后拌入洋葱中,继续烹煮几分钟,直到大蒜稍微上色。

将帕玛森干酪细细地磨碎。整理蘑菇,修剪掉坚硬的茎部,刷掉任何生长介质,并将白蘑菇或褐菇类切成厚片。

准备一锅深水烧开,加入足量的盐。水开后,撒入耳形面,烹煮 9 分钟或直到口感适中。

在面条烹煮期间,将蘑菇加入洋葱和大蒜中——先放最厚的,最后放脆弱、较小的品种。让它们烹煮,必要时加入少量黄油,不时搅拌,直到蘑菇变软且边缘开始变金黄色。加入适量的盐和黑胡椒调味。将莳萝叶切碎。

沥干耳形面,然后拌入蘑菇混合物中。将奶油倒入空的炖锅中,加入帕玛森干酪和莳萝,用盐和胡椒调味。将奶油加热至接近沸腾。

将蘑菇和洋葱混合物放入预热过的盛菜盘中,淋上热的干酪莳萝酱并搅拌均匀。如果愿意,可以在表面撒上少量额外的帕玛森干酪,在 200℃ / 煤气档位 6. 下烘烤 15 分钟,使表面上色。

烤番茄、布拉塔干酪与罗勒

📄 外文原文 ↗

此处需要像意面碗那样浅的盘子来盛放番茄及其汁液。

分量:主菜 2 人份,配菜 4 人份。

各类番茄 800g

橄榄油 2-3 tbsp,另需少量备用

大罗勒叶 10 片

布拉塔干酪 250g

大蒜 3 瓣

干燥面包屑(如 Panko) 75g

将烤箱预热至 200℃ / 煤气档位 6. 将番茄切成厚片。在浅锅中加热 2 tbsp 橄榄油。油热后,

在锅中铺一层番茄,烹煮几分钟,直到底部刚刚开始变金黄色。

使用调色刀或扁平金属片,小心地将番茄翻面,另一面烹煮 2 分钟。取出并单层铺在直径约 25cm 的烤盘底部。

继续处理其余番茄。在烹煮过程中,在烤盘中的番茄片上撒盐、胡椒并放入罗勒叶,将叶子塞在番茄之间。将布拉塔干酪放在番茄中间,然后切开顶部并挤压,

使内部的软干酪流出。将大蒜去皮并压碎。

当番茄准备就绪时,将剩余的番茄片铺在其他番茄之上。锅空后,倒入少量油,加入压碎的大蒜,煎至滋滋作响一分钟,然后拌入面包屑,将其煎至酥脆金黄。频繁搅拌,用盐和胡椒调味,然后撒在番茄和干酪表面。

用少量橄榄油润湿面包屑。(在烘烤过程中,它将与番茄汁液美味地融合在一起。)将盘子放入烤箱,烘烤约 25 分钟直到起泡。 ●

特约主厨

TOMOS PARRY

基于对比构建的风味

📄 外文原文 ↗

我认为,最好的烹饪往往在于理解哪些关键食材需要彼此相伴。鸭肉就是一个很好的例子。一块烹饪得当的鸭胸肉,拥有酥脆的表皮和下方厚实的一层脂肪,本身就非常完美,不需要添加太多东西。它需要的是对比:菊苣带来了苦味和脆感,梨带来了甜味和酸度,而榛子则提供了另一种层次的浓郁,且不会让菜肴过于沉重。在某种程度上,这是一种相当传统的组合,在每年的这个时候,我所有的餐厅通常都会提供这类菜肴。

茄子在烹饪程度远超你认为应当停止的时候味道最好——皮呈黑色,内部的果肉几乎坍塌。用木炭烤是最理想的,因为这样果肉中会带有那种特殊的烟熏味,但使用高温烤架效果也很好。不要害怕把外皮烤焦。

为了与这种滚烫、带有烟熏味的茄子形成对比,我喜欢搭配一些清凉的东西。用柠檬和大蒜调味的浓稠酸奶具有足够的酸爽感来提亮整体风味,而芝麻酱则为其增添了复杂感。洋葱在橄榄油和芳香植物中慢炖,直到变得柔软且甜美。你需要的不仅是洋葱本身,还有那些油脂,因为油脂承载了所有这些风味。

这些都是分量十足的菜肴,适合放在餐桌中央分享,而且都非常灵活:茄子可以作为烤羊肉的配菜;而鸭肉也可以随意尝试搭配红色菊苣、李子或甜菜根——效果会非常相似。

梨与菊苣鸭肉沙拉

📄 外文原文 ↗

这个食谱的关键部分是不要扔掉鸭油。将鸭胸肉放入冷锅中开始烹饪,让脂肪缓慢融化。

Serves 4. Ready in 1 hour

鸭胸肉 2 块,每块约 300g

榛子 40g

菊苣 3 颗

梨 2 个,质地坚实但已成熟

百里香 4 枝

小葱 1 个,小号,切碎

苹果醋 2 tbsp

第戎芥末酱 1 tsp

特级初榨橄榄油 1 tbsp

在烹饪前 30 分钟将鸭胸肉从冰箱中取出。用纸巾拍干,并撒上充足的细盐调味。

将鸭胸肉皮朝下放入一个冰冷的厚底煎锅中。用中低火慢煎 10-12 分钟,随着油脂渗出,将其倒入碗中。皮应变得深金黄色且酥脆。翻面煎 3-5 分钟,具体取决于肉的厚度以及你喜欢的肉色粉红程度。转移到盘中,在温暖的地方静置 10 分钟。

与此同时,在干锅中烘烤榛子直到金黄色。稍微冷却后,粗略地将其压碎。将每颗菊苣纵向切成四等分,保留根部完整以便叶片保持凝聚。将梨切成四等分并去核,然后将每份四分之一再次对半切开。

将 1 tbsp 预留的鸭油倒回煎锅中,大火加热。放入菊苣,切面朝下,煎 2-3 分钟直到上色并开始出现焦痕。快速翻面,调味后转移到温盘中。在同一个锅中加入梨、百里香,必要时再加一勺鸭油。煎 2-3 分钟,翻面一次,直到边缘金黄但中心依然坚实。

制作酱汁:将小葱、醋、芥末酱和一小撮盐放入碗中。静置 5 分钟,然后搅拌入 2 tbsp 温鸭油和橄榄油。将鸭胸肉切成较厚的片。将静置盘中的肉汁倒入酱汁中。将菊苣和梨摆放在大盘中,将鸭肉片铺在上面。淋上酱汁,最后撒上烘烤过的榛子和充足的黑胡椒。

洋茄配洋葱和酸奶

📄 外文原文 ↗

这道菜的精髓在于烟熏味、酸味与甜味的对比。

4人份(作为配菜)。准备时间 45 分钟

中等大小洋茄 3个

橄榄油 1 汤匙

柠檬 1 个

平叶欧芹和薄荷 一小把,粗略切碎

柠檬角(用于装饰)

洋葱油配料:中等大小洋葱 2个,橄榄油 150ml,大蒜 1 瓣,百里香 3 枝,月桂叶 1 片,孜然籽 $\frac{1}{2}$ 茶匙

酸奶配料:

浓稠希腊酸奶 250g

芝麻酱 1 汤匙

小蒜瓣 1 个,细磨成泥

½ 个柠檬皮屑,细磨成泥

柠檬汁 1 汤匙

首先,制作洋葱油。将洋葱去皮并切成极薄的片。将洋葱与油、大蒜、百里香、月桂叶和适量盐放入一个小炖锅中。用极小火烹煮 25-30 分钟,期间偶尔搅拌。洋葱应变得柔软、甜美且呈金黄色,而不要烤焦。

在最后 5 分钟加入孜然籽。离火,让洋葱在油中浸泡。

将酸奶与芝麻酱、大蒜、柠檬皮屑和柠檬汁混合。加入盐调味,放入冰箱冷藏备用。

将烤箱格栅加热至最高温。在洋茄上轻轻抹上橄榄油,放在托盘上烤 20-25 分钟,经常翻面,直到全身焦黑且非常柔软。如果使用烧烤炉,请将炭火烧至极热。将整颗洋茄直接放在火上烤 15-20 分钟,经常翻面。让洋茄静置 5 分钟,然后纵向剖开。立即在露出的果肉上撒盐并挤入柠檬汁调味。

将冰冷的酸奶舀在大的盛菜盘中。将热洋茄放在上面,稍微撑开,使大量带有烟熏味的果肉外露。将洋葱及其带有孜然香气的油舀在上面。最后再挤入少量柠檬汁,撒上欧芹和薄荷。立即食用。 ●

一些豪华酒店面向内部,而另一些则面向外部。但丁休息的 Claridge's 酒店属于后者。如果你负担不起这里像冰云般奢华的套房(大多数人都负担不起),它为孤独者提供了延伸服务:在 Brook's Mews 后方有一家面包店,我喜欢在那里买冰指饼……

餐厅评论 塔尼娅·戈尔德 (TANYA GOLD)

📄 外文原文 ↗

Dante,位于伦敦 W1 布鲁克街的 Claridge's 酒店内 (020 7629 8860, maybourne.com / claridges)。前菜 £19-£29,主菜 £24-£70,甜点 £9-16,葡萄酒每杯 / 每瓶 £14 / £50 起。

那些冰指饼非常美味,每个售价 £4。既然如今花 £10 只能买到一个糟糕的三明治,这个价格似乎很公道。而且这里还包含了一份戏剧感,而这在 Pret 餐厅里是找不到的。

Claridge's 天生就带有戏剧色彩:它最初是为吉尔伯特与苏利文的制作人理查德·多伊利·卡特 (Richard D'Oyly Carte) 而建。2021 年,它的规模大幅扩张,不知为何这让我想起了那个能自我复制的魔法粥锅。在这里,这并非一种批评。

不过,Claridge's 存在一个问题,对于这样一家高水准的酒店来说,这个问题很有趣。它不知道该如何处理自己的餐厅。我指的不是 Foyer & Reading Room,那里是游客用茶和司康饼来缓解时差的地方;也不是 ArtSpace Café,那里是家庭游客与带着笔记本电脑的初级基金经理之间的“战壕战”。我指的是真正的正餐室,入口在戴维斯街 (Davies Street),带有一个小巧且具有防御感的露台。我夸张了,但即便是在梅费尔 (Mayfair),这里的绿篱也太多了。

我曾评论过这家餐厅里的三家店:第一家是 Fera,配有乡村风格的餐具和装饰性鹅卵石。它与这座装饰艺术 (Art Deco) 宫殿格格不入,而且永远无法融入:它似乎很讨厌它的母体。我错过了接下来的 Davies and Brook(由丹尼尔·哈姆 Daniel Humm 打造),这家店在哈姆尝试转向植物基饮食时被砍掉了,因为美国人访问伦敦是为了吃肉,而不是吃朝鲜蓟。然后是 Claridge's Restaurant 及其小酒馆——也就是那种让婴儿感到快乐的食物。现在我们迎来了 Dante,它是纽约市一家意大利餐厅的分店,起初是短期入驻,而现在显然获得了一个永久席位。

首先,名字起错了:但丁 (Dante) 下了地狱,而这里并非地狱。我想说这个房间给视觉带来的信息量太大了,但随后我去了 Lilibet's——一家利用伊丽莎白二世主题牟利的餐厅,那里的程度更甚。Dante 有淡绿色的墙壁;深绿色的长凳;一些看起来很火热、可能已经去世的意大利人的照片;天花板上有红黄玻璃组成的装饰艺术星爆图案;疯狂的花艺布置,每张桌上都有一朵最淡、最粉的玫瑰;以及一台白色钢琴。但它与之前的 Davies and Brook 以及 Claridge's Restaurant 非常相似。如果说油漆颜色、照片和花卉中心装饰不同,那么几乎其他所有东西都一样。没有伟大的餐厅会模仿其他餐厅。它需要自己的身份,并且必须热爱而非抵触其所处的环境。

这是意美风格的食物,它将美国视为意大利的另一个省份,并将 smashburger(压制汉堡)视为珍贵的地域美食。

Dante 在周日下午几乎空无一人,它是为了吸引那些恰好在伦敦、想欣赏装饰艺术内饰的富裕意美游客而设计的吗——但实际上一个也没有?我们点了 fazzoletti(方巾面)和 pappardelle al ragù(宽面肉酱);还点了 chicken alla diavola(“恶魔鸡”),纯粹是为了这个名字——当然,恶魔喜欢鸡肉,谁不喜欢呢?——以及 smashburger。

面食——fazzoletti 意为“手帕”,pappardelle 是比宽面更宽的面条——煮得稍微过头了。热那亚青酱 (Genovese pesto) 裹在 fazzoletti 上,配有碎马苏里拉奶酪和烤面包屑:结果看起来苍白无力。pappardelle 更好一些,但肉酱很难做坏:因为它本质是肉,具有生命力。smashburger 应该是薄汉堡,快速煎制以形成焦壳。但这并不是 smashburger,因为它太厚了,所以我将其作为普通汉堡来评价。它味道不错,带血丝,我很喜欢,但它不需要自制的布里欧修面包:店里买的就行。我通过研究千层面了解到,简单菜肴的“近米其林”版本通常不是最好的版本。这里有一个上限,而仅凭一个普通面包胚就能达到。

魔鬼鸡,以香料激发,口感黏稠且并不特别像“魔鬼”:它的辣度不足以让人联想到地狱或任何类似的东西。它配有土豆泥和一滩黄油:土豆充当了止痛药,而这正是它应有的作用。这个房间擅长提供止痛药。我认为它本身就是一种。提拉米苏是另一种止痛药,而且做得很好。但黏太妃糖甜甜圈则过头了。当我读到它的名字时——用三个词来描述一个拼写错误的甜甜圈?——以及看到它配有香草冰淇淋时,我就该意识到这一点。太妃糖酱太浓稠,将其掩埋;冰淇淋则接管了剩下的部分。这是一个糖做的棺材,而我正躺在其中。

我很难看出在 Claridge's 酒店开设 Dante 餐厅的意义所在:这又是另一种不协调的搭配。它需要解决一个超越其自身的谜题:富人们想吃什么?而且是在梅费尔(Mayfair)这个极度富足的地区。我怀疑答案是更多的富足,因为如果不在此时此地,那还能在何处?Claridge's 需要一家定义性的财阀餐厅,因为没有其他餐厅能与这里的内饰相匹配,而内饰也不会改变。你应该在走进这里时就晕过去。

它能承受得住另一家并不太成功的餐厅。也许这个餐厅区域会模仿“神奇远方树”(Magic Faraway Tree),在这里先开一家,再开另一家餐厅:为那些贪得无厌却令人不悦的人提供第四个基座。在那之前,就像我们所有人一样,它仍在寻找。●

时令之味

📄 外文原文 ↗

罗伯特·塞缪尔·汉森 (ROBERT SAMUEL HANSON)

开始剥壳

我们回到了月份中带有字母“r”的季节,这意味着本土牡蛎重新回到了菜单上(本土牡蛎在夏季产卵,这会影响其口感和味道)。请留意全国各地的各类牡蛎节(法尔茅斯将于 8-10 October 率先拉开帷幕)。

开始采集

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正如奈杰尔·斯莱特 (Nigel Slater) 所提到的(第37页),现在是采摘蘑菇的好时机。通过野外采集,你可以省下购买昂贵蘑菇的大笔费用,但天呐,前提是你必须知道自己在做什么。一把蘑菇刀能帮你干净利落地切断,然后你可以用另一端刷掉污垢(而且,基本上,任何购买新 Opinel 刀的理由都是充分的;£26, berryuseful.co.uk)。

开始采摘

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来自炎热夏季的一些好消息:充足的阳光意味着今年英国葡萄的生长状况极佳。如果你足够幸运地在花园里种了葡萄藤,你现在应该正忙于采摘和保存(腌制葡萄绝对是最佳选择)。如果你没有,市面上也有一些很棒的进口品种——我们非常喜欢香气浓郁的 Fragola 葡萄,它的味道不像其名字所暗示的草莓,而更像人工葡萄味,这相当奇怪。

葡萄酒 大卫·威廉姆斯 (DAVID WILLIAMS)

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高级起泡酒与快餐

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最近在柏林度假的第一天,我的家人因为饥肠辘辘,做了几乎所有初到该市的游客都会做的事:我们直奔最近的咖喱香肠亭,第一次品尝这种奇特的美味——它的酱汁甜味多于辣味,且必须搭配薯条和一瓶酸爽、滋补的柏林白啤酒 (Berliner weisse)。由于我们正处于柏林旅游区的中心地带,就在勃兰登堡门附近,我们已经做好了像在莱斯特广场买东西(随便买什么)的傻瓜一样被宰的准备。但价格(一个面包夹香肠和一瓶 50cl 啤酒 €8.50)相当合理,甚至包括那个“€259 Menu 5 option: 4 x currywurst with a 75cl bottle of Dom Pérignon”。

合理?好吧,我知道(我并非完全天真)那瓶唐培里侬很大程度上是为了制造那种“搞什么鬼”的冲击感,将这种最顶级的香槟与这种旨在坐在凳子上从纸盘里狼吞虎咽的低端快餐搭配在一起,产生一种俏皮的不协调感。但考虑到在英国国内的葡萄酒店(和超市)里,一瓶唐培里侬通常售价 £200 或更多,这个交易似乎并不那么糟糕。

坦率地说,这看起来也不那么奇怪或令人震惊:将高级葡萄酒与刻意低调的食物搭配的想法,早在 20 世纪 80 年代和 90 年代,由伪证者兼偶尔写小说的杰弗里·阿彻 (Jeffrey Archer) 主持的那些臭名昭著的“库克香槟 (Krug) 配牧羊人派”圣诞派对中就已经出现了。而这种特定的高低搭配的精——

广告。我们对其进行管控。无论你爱它还是恨它。

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ASAV

合法、体面、诚实且真实

饮品 汉娜·克罗斯比 (HANNAH CROSBIE)

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香槟配热狗本身也有着相当悠久的传承,在 2010 年代的伦敦,由 Bubbledogs 推广并使其流行,这家香槟热狗酒吧与位于夏洛特街的米其林星级餐厅 Kitchen Table 相关联。

得益于香槟天然的化解油脂的酸度和清新口腔的气泡,这种搭配出奇地和谐。不过,如果我想寻找一种真正令人满足的快餐与起泡酒的组合,我不会从热狗开始,而且杯中的酒也不一定非要是香槟。

无论是经典的英式炸鱼薯条,还是炸鸡店的深炸鸡块,其鲜味(umami)的结合以及酥脆与多汁之间永恒的满足感,与产自香槟区或采用相同工艺酿造的起泡酒搭配时,具有一种不可抗拒的吸引力。同样,令人振奋且具有清洁感的酸度和气泡在其中起到了很大作用。但同样关键的,还有那种浓郁的面包店般的酵母咸香——这是第二次产生气泡的发酵过程,以及在瓶中与死酵母细胞(或称酒泥)长时间密切接触的产物——它与鱼类或鸡肉上的面糊或面包屑在风格上完美契合。

我发现英国起泡酒中多出的一抹令人垂涎的柑橘气息与炸鱼薯条尤其契合;例如,Artelium English Sparkling Wine 2019(£38, Marks & Spencer)中交织的新鲜柠檬、考克斯苹果(Cox's apple)和黄油酥皮的味道,是经典鳕鱼或黑线鳕的理想之选;而 Specially Selected Crémant de Loire NV(£8.99, Aldi)在苹果的清爽中带有微妙的坚果边缘,以及 Codorníu Seleccion Familia Reserva Organic Cava NV(£9.50, 10 月 10 日前由 £13.99 降价, Waitrose)中的青柠与烤面包味,都能让任何微辣的南方炸鸡——或者就此而言,咖喱香肠(currywurst)——突然感觉变得相当高级。

本周之酒

Artelium English

Sparkling Wine 2019

(£38, Marks & Spencer)

道具造型:亚历山大·布里兹 (ALEXANDER BREEZE);饮品造型:塔拉·加内尔 (TARA GARNELL)

零容忍

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我对很多事情都不太迷信。星座很有趣,但仅限于把它们当成性格测试。鬼魂很酷,但我不会在我搬进的每套公寓里都用鼠尾草熏香。而且我相当坦然地持有不可知论,这样如果在我有生之年证明了更高存在之物的存在,无论结果如何我都能够应对。(我讨厌出错。)

然而,在过去的两个月里被疾病击垮,感觉就像是被某种更高力量的惩罚。在过去五年里,我几乎每天晚上至少喝一杯酒,而主宰我的力量决定,为了我的肝脏 / 大脑 / 能量水平,最好让我彻底冷静一段时间。我知道这不健康,而当我最终计算出每周消耗的酒精单位,且全科医生(GP)将我标记为不健康饮酒时,这一点被深深地刻在了我的脑海里。哎呀。

因此,我需要一段时间的休息和重新调整,尤其是为了让我能长期继续担任饮品撰稿人。但如果你的工作必须饮酒怎么办?如果支撑你的生计和职业的东西同时也是能杀死你的东西怎么办?著名的餐厅评论家皮特·威尔斯(Pete Wells)在辞去《纽约时报》的职务并以健康风险为由时,就思考过这个问题。

显然,我仍然可以出去看鸡尾酒单,用眼睛欣赏朋友们喝的东西,而我自己则滴酒不沾。但有几个选择让我撑过了一周,并最终将其变成了一个月的禁酒期。谁能想到呢!

无酒精饮品的世界非常广阔,且拥有巨大的营销预算,但这些饮品通常像水一样淡而无味。那些试图伪装成烈酒的 0% 饮品真的差强人意。它们缺少酒精带来的灼热感,因此尝起来平淡且有合成感——酒精是增强浓郁香气所必需的,否则感觉就像在喝香薰机的液体。而且它们往往太甜了。

如果你住在英国的城市,你会看到 Botivo 瓶子那亮眼的蛋黄黄色在所有酒吧里向你眨眼。它是那些拥有巨额营销预算的品牌之一(我想他们最近的广告活动中请了杰夫·高布伦?),但其产品确实名副其实。Botivo 虽然在鸡尾酒中被广泛用作烈酒的替代品,但它自称为“植物性开胃酒”(botanical aperitivo),并且拥有足以平衡甜味的苦味。我喜欢直接用它兑苏打水。

在类似的类别中,我也喜欢 Mother Root,这是一种 switchel(姜醋基底),无论是早晨像烈酒一样一口饮尽,还是在高球杯中加满饮用,味道都一样好。它有灼烧感,所以对我一定有好处。

无酒精啤酒简直是救星。虽然差的那些像水一样毫无灵感,但最好的那些尝起来……和普通啤酒一样。我的最爱包括 Erdinger 和 Estrella。当你几乎感觉不到区别时,你几乎不会觉得自己在错过什么。 ●

测验

“他们正在寻找一个能说企鹅语的人。我需要钱,”配音艺术家大卫·桑特(David Sant)这样描述他在哪部动画电视剧中的工作?名为 Pinga 和 Pingi 的企鹅与该剧的标题之星一同出现。

在绘画中,哪种排线法涉及在第一组线条上叠加第二组线条?

亚当·乔纳斯·霍罗维茨(Adam Jonas Horowitz)的 Stonefridge 安装在圣达菲,它是哪个纪念碑的“巨石般的、后末日风格”的复制品?它最初由 200 台冰箱建成,旨在成为一座反对消费主义和工业废物的“反纪念碑”。

哪种昂贵的香料来自秋季开花的番红花品种的干燥柱头?

哪一部 1898 年的科幻小说讲述了一场始于沃金(Woking)的外星入侵?

0,真的吗?

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是轻而易举,还是认输道歉?我们的每周测验将测试您在文化、风格、历史、科学以及更多方面的知识。由 ITV《追逐》(The Chase)节目出题人 Lydia Heaton 提供

哪家足球俱乐部在首次以“星期三足球俱乐部”(Wednesday Football Club)之名出现约 3,236 个星期三后,采用了目前的名称?

举报人 Sarah Wynn-Williams 曾在哪家公司工作(该公司现已更名为 Meta)?在今年海节(Hay Festival)的亮相中,她必须在舞台上保持沉默且静止,以免违反其前雇主获得的法律禁令,该禁令禁止她宣传其回忆录《粗心的人》(Careless People)。

⑧

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“四大”时装周分别在哪个四个城市举行?

哪位流行歌星经营着 Service95 书友会,并且是今年伦敦文学节的主策展人?她的热门歌曲包括《Levitating》、《Illusion》和《One Kiss》。

在看到三宅一生(Issey Miyake)为索尼员工设计的制服后,史蒂夫·乔布斯受到启发,决定拥有自己的个人制服。这位设计师为苹果创始人打造的标志性造型中,高领衫是什么颜色的?

在犹太传统中,据说哪种水果有 613 颗种子?

在专辑《Ready to Die》的同名歌曲中,Notorious BIG 将什么描述为“帝国的材料”?这种物质以不粘且极其湿滑而闻名。

13

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2026 年欧洲公路自行车锦标赛在哪个国家举行?该国的自行车之星包括 Primož Roglič 和 Tadej Pogačar。

1991 年,谁在 18 岁时担任 i-D 杂志的时尚总监,成为国际杂志历史上最年轻的时尚总监?他后来担任了《英国版 Vogue》的主编。

玛格野猫(margay)和虎猫(ocelot)是哪种动物的野生类型?

1766 年的“大奶酪骚乱”发生在哪个城市的年度鹅市(Goose Fair)期间?暴徒在街道上滚动奶酪轮,市长在试图恢复秩序时被其中一个奶酪轮撞倒。

在第三届伦敦电影节上,导演弗朗索瓦·特吕弗(François Truffaut)在没有票且不会说英语的情况下,出席了自己哪部电影的放映会?这是他的长片处女作,讲述了一个被误解的 12 岁男孩的故事,现在被认为是杰作。

根据 Gil Scott-Heron 的一首歌名,什么将不会被电视转播? ●

答案在第 3 页

卫生纸。

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它之所以是白色的,是因为某个地方的某个人决定这样看起来比较好看。于是他们对其进行了漂白,添加了化学物质,并称之为进步。

我们认为这是没有必要的。因此,我们的纸是褐色的,正如大自然原本的样子。

无漂白。无强效化学物质。无需这些。

我们纸张的每一个环节都经过深思熟虑——从我们不使用化石燃料的工厂,到包装盒上环保的油墨。

它柔软吗?当然。

强韧吗?绝对。

对地球更友好吗?毫无疑问。

因为卫生纸不需要是白色的。但它确实需要变得更好。

通过我们的全额退款保证,无风险订购:

NAKED PAPER

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MISSION ON EARTH POLAR LIGHT

OMEGA

swatch®

仅在部分 Swatch 门店有售

观察者报体育

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关于曼城的六页特别报告,见第 3-8 页

黎耶卡破坏者

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英格兰队攻入七球大胜克罗地亚

本周

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由 Andrew Butler 报道

本周简讯

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维斯塔潘在大幅提升后夺得杆位

马特·马詹迪(Matt Majendie)写道,马克斯·维斯塔潘在今天早上的巴林大奖赛中夺得杆位,预示着红牛车队的崭新黎明。

这位 29 岁的车手本赛季首次获得杆位——这也是 2026 年非梅赛德斯动力赛车首次夺得杆位。这位四届世界冠军的冠军争夺战早已化为泡影,但他在排位赛中的统治力巩固了他目前作为基米·安东内利(Kimi Antonelli)在赛道上最强挑战者的地位。

由于中东地区持续的冲突,本次大奖赛移至马来西亚举行。维斯塔潘以 0.3 秒的优势领先于他的长期对手刘易斯·汉密尔顿,夺得头名。

930 万英镑

迈克尔·乔丹 1998 年芝加哥公牛队球衣拍卖的纪录金额

红牛车队在作为内部发动机供应商的第一个赛季中发现自己具备竞争分站冠军的能力,这一点维斯塔潘深有体会,而他在今年早些时候的成绩远低于平均水平。

自从在雪邦赛道首次起步以来,维斯塔潘就展现出了超群的实力,尽管梅赛德斯带来了一套期待已久且备受赞誉的升级套件,据其估计每圈可提升 0.3 秒——然而,他们反而失去了时间。车队负责人托托·沃尔夫(Toto Wolff)抱怨“没有性能”,但反驳了关于他们现在可能失去竞争力的说法。

与此同时,刘易斯·汉密尔顿对法拉利赞赏有加。就在这一周,在克里斯蒂安·霍纳(Christian Horner)表示对其职位感兴趣后,法拉利车队不得不公开表示全力支持车队负责人弗雷德·瓦塞尔(Fred Vasseur)。

Jazz Tevaga 在为球队攻入第三次达阵后,与 Caius Faatili 和 Caleb Hamlin-Uele 一起庆祝。Michael Steele / Getty

韦克菲尔德三位一体队凭借出色表现击败狼队,结束58年冠军等待

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韦克菲尔德三位一体队(Wakefield Trinity)在老特拉福德球场举行的总决赛中以 23-10 击败沃灵顿狼队(Warrington Wolves),成为第六支捧起超级联赛冠军奖杯的球队。

在曼彻斯特座无虚席的观众面前,三位一体队表现出极强的冲击力,加入了维冈、利兹、圣海伦斯、布拉德福德和赫尔金克罗(Hull KR)的行列。

三位一体队在进入决赛前,在半决赛中以惊人的表现击败了常规赛榜首的维冈队,而维冈队在上周六失利前正追求三冠王。

另一方面,沃灵顿队来到老特拉福德球场是希望摆脱以往总决赛的阴影,他们曾四次进入这场顶级赛事,但每次都未能夺冠。

赛前,橄榄球传奇人物凯文·辛菲尔德爵士(Sir Kevin Sinfield)——其子杰克在决赛中担任韦克菲尔德队的半卫——在完成其 7 in 7: The Grand Finale 挑战后,将奖杯带入赛场。辛菲尔德从赫尔出发,连续七天每天跑一场超马,在此过程中筹集了超过100万英镑,使其在七次超马挑战中筹集的总金额超过 £1100 万。

两支球队在决赛中沿用了半决赛的阵容。韦克菲尔德队在第11分钟率先破门,卡姆·斯科特(Cam Scott)在拉克兰·沃尔姆斯利(Lachlan Walmsley)的精妙传球下得分。第25分钟,汤姆·约翰斯通(Tom Johnstone)在跳跃中胜过阿尔伯特·霍波特(Albert Hopoate)助攻伊赛亚·瓦加纳(Isaiah Vagana),三位一体队扩大了领先优势;十分钟后,贾兹·特瓦加(Jazz Tevaga)在近距离得分,球队拿下第三分。半场结束前,辛菲尔德踢进一个掉球门(drop-goal),使三位一体队以 19-0 领先。

沃灵顿队在下半场早段反击,尤安·欧文(Ewan Irwin)将球传给亚伦·林多普(Arron Lindop)得分,但约翰斯通随后从助攻者变为得分者,帮助韦克菲尔德队重新夺回优势,将比分改为 23-6。

狼队在比赛还剩10分钟时通过亚伦·林多普获得一个未转换得分的达阵,但这不足以改变结果,三位一体队在狂热的观众欢呼声中捧起了奖杯。这次胜利更为难能可贵的是,三位一体队曾在 2023, 9月从超级联赛降级,随后在新老板马特·埃利斯(Matt Ellis)的带领下于近几个赛季复兴,最终结束了等待 58年的冠军之梦。

剪刀石头布决定马拉松日期

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明年的伦敦马拉松精英赛日期已通过一种极具创意的方法决定——玩一场剪刀石头布。明年的赛事将是一次特殊的两天制活动,100,000 名参赛者将在 24-25 April 的周末期间走上街头。但关于男子和女子精英赛及轮椅赛的具体时间,则由女子轮椅世界纪录保持者凯瑟琳·德布伦纳(Catherine Debrunner)和男子世界纪录保持者萨巴斯蒂安·萨韦(Sabastian Sawe)通过这场童年游戏决定——两人均在去年的比赛中夺冠。

德布伦纳在三局两胜的对决中以 2-0 击败萨韦。因此,男子精英赛和男子轮椅赛定于周六举行,女子赛事则在次日举行。

新评论专栏

📄 外文原文 ↗

“人们真的认为我仅靠对着别人大吼大叫就能赢得所有那些奖杯吗?”亚历克斯·弗格森爵士(Sir Alex Ferguson)问道。在接受保罗·海沃德(Paul Hayward)采访时,这位传奇教练分享了他激励年轻球员的天赋秘诀以及他对未来的担忧。

封面故事

📄 外文原文 ↗

裘德·贝林厄姆(Jude Bellingham)在英格兰 7-0 大胜克罗地亚的比赛中拥抱哈里·凯恩(Harry Kane)

Marko Perkov / AFP via Getty

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安德鲁·巴特勒(Andrew Butler)之言与行

翻车事件

📄 外文原文 ↗

赫尔城足球俱乐部位于科廷汉姆(Cottingham)的训练基地附近发生了离奇事件。据报道,夏季从法国引进的卢卡斯·古尔纳-杜阿特(Lucas Gourna-Douath)成为了第二位在基地外翻车的“老虎队”球员;三周前,边锋索尔巴·托马斯(Sorba Thomas)也在同一条狭窄的道路上发生了车辆翻滚。两名球员均未受伤。

沃尔瑟姆斯托的等待结束了

📄 外文原文 ↗

沃尔瑟姆斯托足球俱乐部(Walthamstow FC)的内森·史密斯(Nathan Smith)取得了一项惊人的成就,他刷新了俱乐部两球之间间隔时间最长的纪录。史密斯在上周末该伊斯米安联赛(Isthmian League)球队 9-0 大胜洛韦斯托夫特(Lowestoft)的比赛中打入一球——而他此前为这家东伦敦俱乐部进球的时间点,是在 19 年 7 个月零 9 天之前。

涌向那块岩石

📄 外文原文 ↗

“萨拉效应”在土耳其全面爆发。穆罕默德·萨拉(Mo Salah)在特拉布宗(Trabzon)高地一块看似平凡的岩石旁发布了一张照片后,该地点成为了热门打卡地,粉丝们纷纷涌向这块岩石。现场曾竖起一块指示牌并放置了一张长凳,但据报道这些物品随后被盗。当地媒体报道称,现场可能会安装监控摄像头。

年龄只是个数字(Bamber)

📄 外文原文 ↗

沃里克郡冠军伊森·班伯(Ethan Bamber)告诉 Cricinfo,他进入英格兰队的希望已经“随风而逝”。但年仅 27 岁的他应该从其他晚年才完成测试赛首秀的球员身上获得鼓励。这些人包括格雷姆·斯旺(Graeme Swann,当时 29 岁)、乔纳森·特罗特(Jonathan Trott,28 岁)、布赖登·卡斯(Brydon Carse,29 岁)、乔·登利(Joe Denly,32 岁)和约翰·查尔兹(John Childs,36 岁)。

自曼城裁决以来,赌注迅速升级,罗里·史密斯(Rory Smith)撰文道

📄 外文原文 ↗

过去的一切曾如此纯真。现在很难回忆起来,但曾经有一段时间——其实并不久远——足球是一项简单的运动。用毛衣当球门,飞翼前锋,阿森纳在角球时的闪电进攻。当我们切换到斯托克利公园(Stockley Park)去确认恩佐·费尔南德斯(Enzo Fernández)是否越位时,会有四分钟的延迟。

例如,曼彻斯特城(曼城)被判定大规模违反英超联赛财务规则,似乎就在上周;审理此案的独立小组公布其核心决定,终于将这场看来是英格兰足球史上最大的作弊丑闻曝光在阳光下,感觉也就在几天前。

不知为何,此后发生的一切不仅产生了一种将过去一周拉长至永恒的效果,而且将那个我们唯一需要担心的是曼城蒙羞对英超联赛作为体育赛事持续可行性产生影响的幸福时期,变成了一种近乎于太平盛世的记忆。

我们当时多么天真。自从英超联赛在周二公布了小组的“最终裁决”以来——尽管曼城坚决抗议其清白,称其拥有全面且无可反驳的证据等,且该裁决仍可上诉——此案已失控。不知为何,这一切对英超联赛意味着什么,现在成了我们最不需要担心的事情。

当然,我们早就知道足球很重要。英超联赛很重要。这项运动是最后一个伟大的集体文化形式,是唯一一个不能被算法完全撕裂的全球共同痴迷,而英格兰的顶级联赛——无论通过正当还是不正当手段——都处于这一趋势的最前沿。它位列该国最伟大的软实力出口产品之列。直到曼城案的冲击波开始扩散,我们才无法完全领悟到它已变得多么核心,与政治、经济以及外交地交织得如此之深。

足球一直被视为一场侧翼表演,是对所有真正重要之事的分心。结果证明,它本身就是那件重要的事情。

进退两难:上图中的安迪·伯纳姆(Andy Burnham)与曼城主席哈尔多恩·穆巴拉克(Khaldoon Al Mubarak)在一起,他需要安抚一位盟友,而这可能会损害他的信誉。

Paul Ellis / 在过去的一周里,存在着两条时间线。第一条是体育层面的。小组的整体裁决于上周五出炉——判定曼城在面临的一百多项指控中,除一项外全部有罪,指控范围从不配合调查到掩盖部分商业资金来源不等。

曼城发布了一份简短的声明。俱乐部主席哈尔多恩·穆巴拉克在周六发布了一份稍微详细一些的声明。

周二,小组调查结果的公布揭示了该决定是多么严厉,违规行为又是多么深层。他们认定,曼城的许多商业安排都是伪造的。他们指责俱乐部的一些证人故意歪曲信息,这是法律术语中对“撒谎”的委婉说法。

英超联赛和俱乐部都发表了声明。曼城首席执行官费兰·索里亚诺(Ferran Soriano)向俱乐部员工发送了一段视频,他在其中说了三分钟话,期间没有眨眼。周四晚上,曼城提交了正式上诉。

周五,在另一场声明风暴中,他们确认已提交上诉。

这一切可能都在预料之中。它遵循一个可识别的模式:主张与反主张,呼吁与回应,尽管其核心涉及一些感觉像是联赛本身生存问题的事情。

更令人震惊的是第二条时间线上的持续喧嚣。这并非关于曼城可能如何上诉的猜测,也不是关于他们可能受到何种处罚的急促推测,更不是关于禁止所有者投资足球规则的喋喋不休,而是赌注的迅速升级:一场起因于让一支足球队能够签下埃利亚基姆·曼加拉(Eliaquim Mangala)的争议,突然演变成了一场全面的国际事件。

它可能涉及所谓的“伪装资金计划”。据称,该公司已聘请了以激进著称的奎恩·埃马纽埃尔(Quinn Emanuel)律师事务所来进行反击。

曼城的核心赞助商阿提哈德航空(Etihad Airways)率先发难,威胁要起诉英超联赛,理由是英超联赛暗示其可能涉及上述计划,从而损害了其名誉。

到本周末,即便如此似乎也成了小事:彭博社报道称,阿拉伯联合酋长国官员已警告称,该决定可能会影响与英国的双边贸易;而《电报报》则暗示,该国可能会撤出对牛津与剑桥之间高科技走廊的投资,而该走廊最终可能为英国经济带来 780 亿英镑 billion 的价值。

据报道,唐宁街“并未否认”资金可能面临风险。

当然,这些威胁引发了一系列疑问:为什么阿联酋会对一家它一直声称并不拥有的俱乐部面临处罚的前景反应如此激烈?而且,一个不习惯被追究责任的专制政权,在曼城据称拥有大量无可反驳的清白证据的情况下,为什么会觉得有必要如此激进?

到目前为止,那个必须抵御这些压力的人——首相,似乎还没能对此给出答案。

他针对该话题的首次干预,似乎在一种信念上停留的时间比预期更长,即他认为几年前被判定犯有轻微违规行为的埃弗顿队受到了严厉对待。随后他表示,考虑到曼城所有者为曼彻斯特所做的一切,他对“失去”他们的前景感到“担忧”。

“伯纳姆是那个必须抵制他们的人,但他似乎没有答案”

📄 外文原文 ↗

他随后对这些言论进行了澄清——不是一次,而是两次——但他在该问题上的脆弱性现在已显而易见。他现在应该意识到,他最初的言论误判了公众情绪。他也应该意识到,这现在已不仅仅是一个英超联赛的问题。

财政遴选委员会主席梅格·希利尔(Dame Meg Hillier)已要求英国税务海关总署(HMRC)调查曼城财务手段可能带来的税务影响;下议院商业委员会主席利亚姆·伯恩(Liam Byrne)则请求财务报告理事会调查曼城审计师的行为在何种程度上构成了“严重的监管失败”。

这使伯纳姆陷入了一个尴尬的境地:他既需要安抚一个盟友,又日益感觉到这样做不仅会损害他的信誉,甚至可能让整个国家显得在面对一个石油国家的绝对君主制时毫无还手之力。

长期以来,英超联赛一直是英国向世界展示自己的方式。而现在发生的事情,将是对世界如何看待英国的一次考验。

结束英超联赛与国家的关系已太迟

📄 外文原文 ↗

即便曼城的股东选择出售,英格兰顶级联赛此前已张开双臂欢迎了亚布拉莫维奇和公共投资基金(PIF),乔治·西姆斯(George Simms)写道。

所以,你认为主权国家不应该能够拥有足球俱乐部。这是一个令人钦佩的目标。如果我没说得太苛刻的话,这大概是正确的,尽管有点太晚了。当然,在英超联赛看来,这实际上根本不是个问题,因为没有任何一个主权国家拥有其旗下的任何俱乐部。

曼彻斯特城的申诉——在超出“我不确定你们第一次是否听清了”的范围之内——取决于谢赫·曼苏尔及其阿布扎比联合发展投资集团(ADUG)与阿联酋政府的分离。正如独立委员会已经发现的那样,这种分离程度就像《搏击俱乐部》中的泰勒·德顿(Tyler Durden)与叙述者一样,但英超联赛在过去 18 年里一直坚持认为这种分离是存在的。

曼苏尔是阿联酋的副总统,也是总统的兄弟。在一个非详尽的名单中,曼城主席哈尔多恩·穆巴拉克(Khaldoon Al Mubarak)实际上是阿布扎比的总理,是一家主权财富基金的首席执行官兼董事总经理,是阿联酋总统驻华特使及其与美国的主要联络人,同时还担任多家银行和能源委员会的主席。任何提供给曼城赞助商的政府资金,可能至少包含这样一些元素:“你想支持一下这笔赞助协议吗,哈尔多恩?”“既然你提到了,这听起来是个绝妙的主意,哈尔多恩。”

在曼彻斯特之外,如果沙特阿拉伯的主权财富基金(PIF)及其主席穆罕默德·本·萨勒曼被认为与更广泛的沙特阿拉伯国家及其王储穆罕默德·本·萨勒曼之间没有足够的独立性,那么纽卡斯尔联的收购案将无法通过英超联赛的所有者和董事测试。然而,它通过了,因为归根结底,英超联赛没有拒绝巨额资金的习惯。

旨在阻止任何国家行为体拥有俱乐部的监管条例实际上会是什么样子?金钱与权力密不可分,而购买一家英超俱乐部需要大量的其中一项,以及至少一部分的另一项。当然,如果你担任任何政府职务,你不应该能够拥有俱乐部,但如果该职务是礼仪性的,或者你刚刚卸任呢?难道你不应该能够加入一个财团吗?

如果你是皇室成员但权力或影响力有限(想象一下哈里王子试图购买布伦特福德)会怎样?如果你拥有例如全球市值第五大公司(一家拥有大量国家合同和显著影响力公司),以及你国家的一家主要全国性报纸,又会怎样?

界限在哪里?罗曼·亚布拉莫维奇与弗拉基米尔·普京关系密切,但没有人认真地相信“大反派”弗拉德在决定切尔西是否需要一名新的 9. 号前锋。还记得谢赫·贾西姆·本·哈马德·阿勒萨尼(Sheikh Jassim bin Hamad Al Thani)出价 50 亿英镑 billion 购买曼彻斯特联吗?根据我们所知的有限信息,

谢赫 降低

从董事会

到教练席的

关键人物

Abdulla Khouri 董事会 2018-

谢赫·曼苏尔

所有者 2008-

曼彻斯特城的拥有者及其母公司城市足球集团(City Football Group)的大股东。曼苏尔于 2008 年买下俱乐部并持有 81% 的股份。他是阿拉伯联合酋长国的副总理兼副总统。

Alberto Galassi 董事会 2012-

董事会

哈尔多恩·穆巴拉克

主席 2008。

穆巴拉克负责俱乐部的日常运营,并将其从一家英超联赛中游俱乐部发展成为足球巨头。穆巴拉克同时也是穆巴达拉投资公司(Mubadala Investment Company)的首席执行官,该公司在全球管理着 850亿美元 的资产。据《金融时报》报道,穆巴达拉一直是一家合作伙伴关系的领投方,该伙伴关系已促使阿联酋向英国产生了 300亿英镑 的投资承诺。

西蒙·皮尔斯 董事会 2008-

曼彻斯特城董事会成员及阿布扎比领导层的资深顾问。皮尔斯于 2006年加入阿联酋执行事务局,该机构向总统提供战略建议。他于 2008 年被任命为曼城董事会成员并管理收购进程。皮尔斯撰写了英超联赛起诉曼城案件中心涉及的几封电子邮件。据《Der Spiegel》报道,在被楚米利亚斯询问曼城是否被允许更改赞助付款日期时,皮尔斯据称回答道:“当然可以。我们可以随心所欲。”

约翰·麦克比斯 董事会 2010-

西蒙·克利夫

总法律顾问 2009-

克利夫曾是 2008年代表阿布扎比联合集团(Abu Dhabi United Group)进行收购的法律团队成员,随后在次年成为俱乐部的总法律顾问。他在 2013年成为城市足球集团(City Football Group)的总法律顾问。《Der Spiegel》报道称,克利夫创造了“长弓计划”(Project Longbow)一词,旨在增加收入并减少亏损。“长弓计划”本身是合法的,但英超联赛在其裁决中表示,该计划的一个分支——“福特汉姆安排”(Fordham Arrangement)——“只不过是阿布扎比联合集团的一个掩护”。

费兰·索里亚诺 (Ferran Soriano) 首席执行官 2012-

📄 外文原文 ↗

索里亚诺于 2012 年 9 月被任命,在当前的危机期间,他是俱乐部领导层中最公开的人物。在本周发送给曼城员工的一段泄露视频中,索里亚诺表示,有罪判决是基于“单一的虚假指控”和“英超联赛的阴谋论”。

豪尔赫·丘米利亚斯 (Jorge Chumillas) 首席财务官 2013-16

📄 外文原文 ↗

前城市足球集团 (City Football Group) 首席财务官。他于 2013 年加入俱乐部,并于 2016 年因健康原因离职。丘米利亚斯的名字出现在《明镜周刊》(Der Spiegel) 2018 年公布的泄露邮件中,其中详细记录了内部赞助资金的情况。

穆罕默德·穆巴拉克·阿尔-马兹鲁伊 (Mohamed Mubarak Al Mazrouei) 董事会 2010-22

马丁·埃德尔曼 (Martin Edelman) 董事会 2008-

马克·休斯 (Mark Hughes)

主教练

2008-09

曼努埃尔·佩莱格里尼 (Manuel Pellegrini) 主教练 2013-16

📄 外文原文 ↗

罗伯托·曼奇尼 (Roberto Mancini)

主教练 2009-13

布莱恩·基德 (Brian Kidd)

临时

主教练 2013

前曼彻斯特城主教练。曼奇尼在 2009 年至 2013 年间领导俱乐部,并在 2012 年赢得了他们的首个英超联赛冠军。他通过同样由曼苏尔谢赫所有的一家名为 Al Jazira 的俱乐部所签署的合同安排受到了审查。现任意大利国家队主教练的曼奇尼在 2023 年表示:“我已经缴纳了税款,一切都是公开透明的”。上周在判决确认前,当被要求对此做出回应时,他表示:“曼彻斯特城并未被判定有罪,至于双重合同,那不是我关心的事。那是他们的问题,不是我的。”

格雷厄姆·华莱士 (Graham Wallace) 首席运营官兼首席财务官 2009-12

📄 外文原文 ↗

汤姆·格利克 (Tom Glick)

首席商业官兼首席运营官

2012-15

加里·库克 (Garry Cook) 首席执行官 2008-11 董事会 2008-11

📄 外文原文 ↗

前曼彻斯特城首席执行官。库克在 2008 年至 2011 年期间担任此职。在 2008 年 9 月的收购期间,他监督了从他信·钦那瓦特 (Thaksin Shinawatra) 到曼苏尔谢赫的过渡。

奇基·贝吉里斯坦 (Txiki Begiristain) 足球总监 2012-25

📄 外文原文 ↗

前曼彻斯特城足球总监。贝吉里斯坦曾在巴塞罗那和西班牙国家队拥有辉煌的球员生涯,他在 2012 年至 2025 年期间管理曼城的俱乐部运营。

佩普·瓜迪奥拉 (Pep Guardiola) 主教练 2016-26

📄 外文原文 ↗

英超联赛调查期间的曼彻斯特城主教练。瓜迪奥拉在俱乐部十年的任期内赢得了 20 座奖杯,包括六次联赛冠军。在被问及指控时,他多次为曼城辩护,在 2023 年指控首次公布时,他表示他的“第一个想法是我们已经被定罪了”。上周在对判决做出回应时,他告诉俱乐部的球迷:“我在这里——比以往任何时候都坚定。”

奥马尔·贝拉达 (Omar Berrada)

首席运营官

2016-20

恩佐·马雷斯卡 主教练 2026-

📄 外文原文 ↗

于今年6月接替瓜迪奥拉,并表示他对英超联赛的指控没有任何担忧。这是他第三次在俱乐部任职,此前他曾在2020–21, 赛季执教精英发展小队一个赛季,并担任过一个赛季的瓜迪奥拉助教。

米克尔·阿尔特塔

教练 2016-19

曾任曼彻斯特城的助理教练,现任阿森纳主教练。阿尔特塔此前表示,他在曼城工作期间没有看到任何潜在违规行为的证据。他尚未对英超联赛的裁决发表评论。

曼彻斯特城特别报告

📄 外文原文 ↗

贾西姆曾是一家上市银行——卡塔尔伊斯兰银行的董事长,他是卡塔尔前总理之子,也是现任埃米尔的兄弟。

贾西姆的代表一直否认他是卡塔尔国家出价的“温和面孔”,但人权组织 FairSquare 在致欧足联和英超联赛的信中写道,“对卡塔尔政治和经济体系的基本研究充分证明,任何卡塔尔财团都不可能证明自己独立于国家影响之外”。贾西姆的竞标方案中包含一份由卡塔尔国家银行首席执行官签署的银行担保,而该银行的一半股份由卡塔尔政府通过其主权财富基金持有。

那么,仅仅因为一个最终无法证明的、与一个他并未担任任何职务的政府之间的联系,贾西姆是否就不应该被允许拥有这家他看起来是长期且合法的球迷支持的俱乐部?

如果那样,英超联赛将拥有极其完美的“合理否认”空间,而且很难想象有一套能够防御且能阻止他接管的规章制度,除非有效地禁止大多数海湾国家的人员拥有足球俱乐部。无论如何,幸运的是,曼联避开了贾西姆,而得到了——查一下笔记——吉姆·拉特克利夫爵士(Sir Jim Ratcliffe),他来自摩纳哥,并表示“我非常担心英国,所以在这里抛出一些言语手榴弹”。

但或许今天最根本的问题是:一旦你邀请老虎来喝茶,一旦你让它吃光了你的食物并喝干了水龙头里的水,你该如何要求它“滚回”(Foxtrot Oscar)原籍?理论上,这正是独立足球监管机构(IFR)发挥作用的地方。

本周,IFR 主席大卫·科根(David Kogan)表示,该机构拥有“评估所有者、董事以及高管适用性的权力,在有明确证据表明个人存在违规行为的情况下,为了保护英格兰足球的可持续性、诚实性和完整性,我们将酌情行使这些权力”。当然,它尚未展示这些权力,尚未阐明评估适用性具体包含什么,也尚未证明首相会对曼彻斯特失去 ADUG 而感到“非常担忧”这一点并不重要。

即便 IFR 能够将曼苏尔(Mansour)和阿尔-穆巴拉克(Al Mubarak)驱逐,但只要公共投资基金(PIF)还拥有纽卡斯尔联,禁止国家行为体进入英超联赛将在“逻辑混乱的虚伪”与“后勤上的不可能”之间徘徊,再加上卡塔尔仍然拥有巴黎圣日耳曼队的复杂情况。当然,IFR 剥夺 PIF 和沙特阿拉伯对纽卡斯尔联所有权存在各种基于人权的理由,但其中绝大多数理由在 2021 年接管发生时就已经存在。

而且与阿联酋的情况一样,从 PIF 手中夺走纽卡斯尔联将引发与英国盟友的一次重大外交事件——距离伦敦各政府大楼在阿卜杜拉国王去世后降半旗仅过去十余年。英格兰足球,尤其是英超联赛,实际上正反映着其周围的国家现状。

这一切并不是说不应该做出改变,或者说英超联赛的所有权规则不需要根本性改革,但这是一个远超足球范畴的问题:即金钱——无论是来自国家行为体还是随处可见的亿万富翁——可以买到豁免权、沉默和许可,而问责制只针对底层小人物。

所以,你认为主权国家不应该能够拥有足球俱乐部。这是一个令人钦佩的目标。尽管我怀疑到最后这是否会有影响。

特别报告

曼彻斯特城

夏季挥金如土后,曼城球员经纪人陷入进退两难的境地

📄 外文原文 ↗

罗布·德雷珀(Rob Draper)写道,如果制裁力度很大,俱乐部的一些顶级球星注定会离队

这个周末,埃利奥特·安德森(Elliot Anderson)、恩佐·费尔南德斯(Enzo Fernández)、阿尤布·布阿迪(Ayyoub Bouaddi)和伊利曼·恩迪亚耶(Illiman Ndiaye)在想什么——或者更具体地说,他们的经纪人在想什么。上周,ESPN 报道称,曼彻斯特城(曼城)在 7 月份被告知其英超联赛指控成立,而当时他们正准备为打破纪录的转会窗口提交报价并敲定交易。

如果曼城在周四发起的上诉失败,该俱乐部有可能被降级。在这种情况下,将自己绑定在一家俱乐部的长期合同中,似乎成了终极的“买家悔恨”。安德森的转会费为 £1.16 亿,创下了英国球员的纪录;而费尔南德斯的转会费为 1.25 亿英镑,并列英超联赛纪录。由于俱乐部拒绝就相关报道发表评论,目前尚不清楚在今年夏天签约曼城的球员们具体被告知了什么。但如果曼城确实知道即将发生什么,那么在交易中挥霍 4.58 亿英镑(即便他们通过出售球员回收了约 2.77 亿英镑)无疑是对俱乐部未来及其清白的惊人赌注。

然而,一位过去与曼城有广泛交易且曾向其提出 115 项指控问题的经纪人,透露了曼城对此持有的信心程度。

买家悔恨:如果新俱乐部上诉失败,埃利奥特·安德森(右)和恩佐·费尔南德斯(左)可能会面临降级。Shaun Brooks / CameraSport / Getty Images

“他们告诉我们:‘这件事会解决的。’他们说自己没有做错任何事。他们绝对坚信自己没有做错。”该经纪人对此保持怀疑,但权宜之计地预料到会与英超联赛达成某种辩诉交易式的妥协。而球员希望签约曼城——大多数人都会这样——所以交易最终达成了。

目前,大多数曼城球员将寄希望于曼城强硬的反应,并假设曼城的律师将推翻判决,就像 2020 年在体育仲裁法院(Cas)推翻欧足联的禁令那样。

然而,经纪人们会意识到,Cas 当时裁定曼城胜诉,部分原因是关于违规行为最严重的证据已过时效,但主要原因是欧足联在未获得证据的情况下就采取了行动。曼城拒绝披露其内部电子邮件,而欧足联放弃了强制披露的尝试。

相比之下,英超联赛对违规行为没有时效限制——因此指控可以追溯到 2009 年——并且还与曼城进行了一场漫长且昂贵的仲裁诉讼并获胜,从而强制俱乐部披露所有文件。简而言之,这次判决对俱乐部来说要严重得多,更难推翻,并且引起了在曼城拥有球员的经纪人们的担忧。

“他们(经纪人)会关注自己的佣金是否能全额到账,”一名经纪人说道。“佣金是根据合同期限按赛季支付的。我想你可能会想:‘我已经拿到了第一笔,但(如果曼城降级)我还能从中拿到更多吗?那么我该把他送到哪家俱乐部,既能让我们拿到同样的钱,他又会开心?’目前并没有多少同规模的俱乐部。像安托万·塞门约(Antoine Semenyo)、埃尔林·哈兰德(Erling Haaland)、菲尔·福登(Phil Foden)、安德森和费尔南德斯这样的球员能找到其他愿意支付薪水的俱乐部,尤其是如果他们价格便宜的话。但还有一些每周薪水在 的球员会陷入困境,被困在曼城。”

上诉目前正在进行中,尽管制裁可能会在程序完成前公布。然而,制裁可能在上诉结束前不予执行,随后还可能因为曼城对制裁本身提出上诉而进一步推迟。届时,夏季转会窗口将临近,这意味着对于经纪人和球员来说,这将是一场令人紧张的“坚持或转向”的博弈。

对于曼城而言,最糟糕的情况是遭遇降级或多年处罚导致失去竞争力,届时经纪人们将急于准备逃生路线。然而,他们会谨慎地避免过早行动,以防法庭上出现类似“阿圭罗(Agüerooo)”般的反转时刻。如果曼城能够获得证明清白,甚至仅仅是减轻处罚,他们仍可能保持财务实力,而非像现在看起来那样像一艘沉船。而在英超联赛的足球世界里,没有人愿意与金钱站在对立面。

伊蒂哈德之战提醒人们曼城女足与俱乐部114项指控的关联

📄 外文原文 ↗

杰西

帕克·汉弗莱斯 (Parker Humphreys)

周四,当曼彻斯特城女足成为英超联赛宣布独立委员会认定俱乐部“所有财务指控均成立”后首支公开出战的曼城球队时,并没有太多迹象表明这家俱乐部正面临生存威胁。在与皇家马德里 1-1 战平期间,部分球迷唱起了谢赫·曼苏尔的名字,但大多数人仍坚持唱那些针对女足队伍的更熟悉的歌曲。

主流观点认为,这些指控与曼城女足几乎没有关系;如果说有什么关联,那就是多年来针对曼城的批评在于其所有者在女足方面投入的资金不足。

曼城进入女子超级联赛(WSL)时曾引发争议。在 2013 赛季仅进行一场比赛后,英足协(FA)宣布唐卡斯特贝尔队(Doncaster Belles)将在 2014, 被降级至第二 division,而经过重新改组的曼城将接替其在该 division 的位置。贝尔队在 20 世纪 80 年代和 90 年代曾赢得两次联赛冠军和六次足总杯冠军,因此这一决定引发了激烈争议。这给人留下的印象是,英足协仅仅因为某家俱乐部拥有更强大的资金支持,就对其套近乎,而这家俱乐部此前并未在女子足球领域进行投资。如今独立委员会证明该俱乐部在那个时期公然违反英超联赛规则,这一事实使得英足协当时的决定显得极其恶劣,但这已是陈年旧事。

然而,曼城在 2014 年并未在球队上投入太多资金,即便审视女足最近的账目,他们在这一方面也远落后于切尔西和阿森纳。切尔西报告的 2024-25 年度商业收入超过 £16,而报告的商业和集团收入为 1350 万英镑。与此同时,曼城的收入略低于 700 万英镑。

阿森纳收入

曼城女足主教练安德烈·耶格勒茨(Andrée Jeglertz)不愿评论女足是否会受到影响,但表示目前是“照常经营”。据称,球员们并未被俱乐部男足方面的喧嚣所干扰。据了解,WSL 也不会以任何方式对女足进行调查。

不可否认,曼城在本土赛场难以维持持续的成功这一点反而有所帮助。在 2016, 首次赢得 WSL 冠军后,她们等待了十年才再次夺冠,尽管在此期间她们又赢得了八项本土奖杯,但与切尔西相比,其成功显得微不足道。

从出售俱乐部到男足多次降级,任何情况都可能改变女足的走向,无论是在资金支持还是俱乐部形象方面。制裁可能会让球员在加盟时犹豫,但像曼城这样富有的女足队伍非常少。值得注意的是,上个月曼城推出了女足队伍,进一步强调了她们与男足的区别,而本赛季 WSL 首次正式启用阵容成本监管规定。这些规定将薪资上限限制在收入的 $80,所有者仅允许提供 400 万英镑 或球队收入 $25(以较高者为准)的最高额度补足。

英超联赛的裁决向所有联赛提出了一个问题:如何有效地审计俱乐部提供的信息。在女子足球领域,这变得更加困难,因为商业合同可能同时涵盖两支球队。

该决定可能对球队产生最大影响的地方在于,曼城将于周日在伊蒂哈德球场对阵阿森纳,这是本赛季最重要的比赛之一。比赛的氛围可能取决于阿森纳球迷在多大程度上关注这场丑闻,而非他们自己球队的糟糕状态。虽然男足的处境与女足的生存之间没有直接联系,但当她们走出球员通道,面对一个布满那些“虚假”交易品牌标识的球场时,她们可能仍会感到牵连其中。

旧与新:罗伊·埃文斯(右);利安·多内利(最右)站在她位于安科茨(Ancoats)的午餐盒咖啡馆前。摄影:Amit Lennon

‘我的哥哥是个狂热的皮划艇爱好者。这附近的运河是名为“切希尔环线”(Cheshire Loop)网络的一部分。他说那里是你不能独自划独木舟的地方’

罗伊·埃文斯

‘据说这家咖啡馆要被拆除,但我听过太多次了,直到它真的发生时我才会相信。我可以在任何地方做培根和鸡蛋’

利安·多内利

看看曼彻斯特,难怪伯纳姆如此纠结

📄 外文原文 ↗

首相在士绅化期间担任市长,但未来仍不确定。作者:罗里·史密斯 (Rory Smith)

罗伊·埃文斯 (Roy Evans) 坐在折叠露营椅上,画板轻巧地搁在膝盖上,铅笔在上方盘旋,他正审视着斯塔布斯磨坊 (Stubbs Mill) 那经过精心修复的锯齿形屋顶的角度。

埃文斯很乐意绘制任何事物——在他的书中填满了乡村教堂、石桥和宏伟的建筑立面——这些都是他每周与一个名为“城市写生者” (Urban Sketchers) 组织曼彻斯特分会一同外出时创作的。“这有点像‘地狱天使’ (Hell’s Angels),因为这是一个在世界各地都有分会的运动,”他说。相似之处可能也就到此为止了。

不过,他最钟爱的是像斯塔布斯磨坊这样的地方。这里最初是一家维多利亚时代的工厂,生产棉纺业机器,但在过去十年中被重新激活,成为了全球体育商品巨头 Fanatics 的欧洲总部。

“我喜欢这种新旧之间的对比,”他说。

安科茨 (Ancoats) 和新伊斯灵顿 (New Islington) 曾是工业革命的飞轮,但到 20 世纪末,它们已陷入破败,磨坊被遗弃,仓库荒废,那些曾向空中喷吐黑烟的烟囱早已熄灭。

在那个阶段,这里并不是人们会坐在街角闲适地涂鸦的地方。“我的哥哥是个狂热的皮划艇爱好者,”埃文斯说,“这附近的运河是一个名为‘切希尔环线’ (Cheshire Loop) 网络的一部分。他说这里是该网络中唯一一个不能独自划皮划艇的部分。”

过去 10 年的变化是彻底的。天鹅和窄船聚集的码头边矗立起时尚的公寓楼。磨坊和仓库经过了重新勾缝、翻新,被改造成共享办公空间和普拉提工作室;荒地变成了绿地。一个曾经是后工业衰败主题公园的地方,变成了 21 世纪城市主义的广告。

全球范围内这类开发项目并不缺乏。棉田码头 (Cotton Field Wharf)、史密斯庭院 (Smith's Yard) 等地与伦敦的煤仓庭院 (Coal Drops Yard) 或帕丁顿盆地 (Paddington Basin)、纽约的切尔西市场 (Chelsea Market) 或墨尔本的菲茨罗伊 (Fitzroy) 没有显著区别:同样的红砖时尚,同样的咖啡店在以每个 £6 的价格出售法式火腿黄油三明治 (jambon-beurres)。这种风格上的霸权如此强大,以至于卡塔尔当局在 2022 年世界杯期间也建了一个名为 Msheireb 的区域,在这个过程中直接跳过了“后工业”中的“工业”部分。

当然,安科茨和新伊斯灵顿这些再生街道的独特之处在于其更广泛的意义。正是这种融合了新与旧、公共与私人的项目,象征着一种被称作“曼彻斯特主义” (Manchesterism) 的神秘政治哲学,正是这种哲学将安迪·伯纳姆从市长之位推向了首相之职。

这些项目也是曼彻斯特市与曼彻斯特城所有者之间联盟的主要成果。Manchester Life 是市议会与阿布扎比联合集团 (ADUG) 的合资企业,后者是拥有该俱乐部的私募股权工具。自 2014 年获得土地以来,该公司开发了六栋公寓楼,且彼此距离都在短距离步行范围内。这项投资长期以来一直招致批评和争议。尽管该开发项目提供了近 1,500 套住房,但在一个迫切需要经济适用房的城市里,其中没有一套被归类为经济适用房。相反,约四分之一被用于出售,其余则被指定为租赁房产。

2019 年,《星期日泰晤士报》报道称,这些收入没有一项流向市议会。谢菲尔德大学一个团队在 2022 年的一项研究中发现,这些资金实际上被转到了在泽西岛注册的控股公司。他们认为,通过以低于市场价的价格将开发所需的土地租赁给 ADUG,市议会签署了一份对

伯纳姆赞扬俱乐部所有者在建设现代曼彻斯特中的作用

📄 外文原文 ↗

曼彻斯特,将“公共财富转移到私人手中”。

市议会一直否认这种定性,本周告诉《卫报》,这一说法已被多次“揭穿”,并选择将重点不仅放在开发项目带来的税收收入上,还放在这些项目对这座城市一个被遗忘区域所产生的影响上。

伯纳姆本周呼应了这一立场,他赞扬了俱乐部所有者在建设现代曼彻斯特中所发挥的作用。在某个时刻——在新闻办公室匆忙做出澄清之前——这位首相似乎几乎引用了长期悬挂在伊蒂哈德球场一个看台上的横幅:“曼彻斯特感谢您,曼苏尔谢赫。”

在这些开发项目周围走走,人们对它所带来的改变几乎没有疑问。“那里很多地方在很长一段时间里都是荒地,”安科茨午餐盒(Ancoats Lunch Box)咖啡馆的所有者利安·唐纳利(Leanne Donnelly)说道。她的咖啡馆几乎正好位于码头和伊蒂哈德园区(Etihad Campus)的正中间,后者是与球场相连的一大片土地,设有曼城的训练设施,以及其青年队和女队的球场,以及最近落成的 Co-Op Live 音乐场馆这个“黑盒子”。

在目前的所有权下,曼城开展了大量的社区工作,但不应幻想曼彻斯特生活(Manchester Life)也是其中一部分。这是一项房地产投资,一个商业机会。尽管如此:没有人否认它是有益的。“你能感觉到变化,”唐纳利说。

然而,这种影响并不均衡。绅士化尚未到达唐纳利所在的安科茨区域。她偶尔会收到信件——更频繁的是在《曼彻斯特晚报》上看到公告——告诉她某个计划将改变这个地区,无论这些计划是否与曼城的所有者有关。

“有一个计划打算建一个露天泳池,”她说。“据说咖啡馆会被拆除,但我听过太多次了,直到被告知绝对会发生时我才会相信。”她似乎并不特别担心这些。“我在哪里都能做培根和鸡蛋。”

她看到了在她的周围(即便不是紧挨着她)进行的开发所带来的好处。有些是直接的——“他们在建造 Asda 超市、有轨电车、球场和场馆时,我们迎来了工人”——有些可能被归类为辅助性的。“听到曼城进球时的喧闹声感觉很不错,”她略带不情愿地说(她的家庭忠诚度在其他球队)。“而且我还免费听到了 Take That 乐队的演出。”

但至少在目前,这座城市的这个部分既不是伯纳姆的曼彻斯特,也不是阿布扎比的曼彻斯特:相反,它是一个处于中间地带的地方,到处是车库、废料场和低矮的预制房(里面住着电气批发商),正紧张而兴奋地等待着他人勾勒的未来蓝图被强加于此。

罗里·史密斯(Rory Smith)

曼城的“独行侠”心态威胁到英超联赛的伟大之处

📄 外文原文 ↗

一旦集体主义原则消失,英格兰足球中那些更传统的强队——曼联、阿森纳、利物浦——还有什么动力去维持表面的体面?

套用超级汉斯(Super Hans)的话来说:秘诀在于合作。在过去的三十年里,这一直是将英格兰足球从一个偏僻之地转变为一座光辉堡垒、一座玻璃与钢铁铸就的丰碑,并令其他联赛相形见拙的最重要因素。

显然,历史起到了作用。比赛风格是一个因素。座无虚席的体育场提供了极具感染力的背景。一些小技巧——比如确保球场周围的麦克风捕捉的是观众的喧闹声而非球员的声音——让电视产品更具吸引力。此外,还有语言优势,即所有这一切都以英语进行。

英超联赛的崛起可能经常被呈现为某种进化上的必然,是对足球自然秩序的重新肯定,但现实并非如此显而易见的“天命”。英超之所以繁荣,是因为从一开始,集体主义原则就被植入了其源代码中。《创始成员协议》(Founder Members' Agreement)——这份规定了联赛在脱离足球联盟(Football League)时及之后如何运作的文件——是一个极其宏大的名称,而它实际上只是一张在一次两小时会议中起草的单页纸,如今却拥有了如同神圣经文般不可更改且永恒的地位。

在那份文件中,后来成为英超联赛的基本诫律被首次写下:每家俱乐部拥有一票投票权,决策需经三分之二多数通过,且脱离后成立的联赛所赚取的电视转播收入将在成员之间公平分配。

达成这一决定需要一定的妥协。一些所有者,包括温布尔登的萨姆·哈曼(Sam Hammam),希望采用 NFL 的方式,即直接平分:将总额除以球队数量。一些大俱乐部的代表——也就是我们现在所称的卡特尔(cartel)——认为他们有权拿走最大份额。

诺维奇城主席罗伯特·蔡斯(Robert Chase)解决了这个难题。他在会上表示,他不介意在赛季结束时赚得比阿森纳少,但他坚决反对在赛季开始时就知道结果必然如此,无论两支球队的表现如何。

因此,各俱乐部决定采用一个公式。国内转播收入将按 50 / 25 / 25 的比例分享:一半平均分配,四分之一根据成绩分配,四分之一根据每家俱乐部在电视上的出镜次数分配。国际电视收入几乎是以脚注的形式添加的,但遵循相同的模式。

回顾来看,那个决定是神来之笔。实际上,它在联赛中确立了竞争平衡,而这种平衡——尽管直到相对近期之前都被极大地夸大了——成为了其招牌。在那个会议上大多数富有的白人男性展现出全速前进、残酷竞争的撒切尔主义丰碑中,这像是一小块美式体育社会主义,它将联赛中原本对立的成员通过共同利益绑定在一起,以确保水涨船高,共创繁荣。35 年后,英超联赛的成功证明了这一点的重要性。

说它受到了曼彻斯特城案件所引发的冲击波的威胁,其实是一种轻描淡写。在现阶段,我们只能大致猜测曼城是如何就独立小组的定罪结论提出上诉的;该小组被召集以裁定曼城在十年间违反英超联赛财务规则的 100 多项指控。

然而,目前看来显然没有任何方案是被排除在外的。这家俱乐部——此前已被认定在调查过程中未能以“最大限度的诚信”行事——已经准备好不惜采取极端手段,以清除任何关于违规的微小暗示:只要有必要,就通过法律行动来拖延竞争进程;利用政治和外交压力;质疑专家组、规则甚至联赛本身的合法性。

蓝月沉没?曼城案威胁到英超联赛成立之初的共识。西蒙·斯塔克普尔 / 盖蒂图片社

对于一支拥有完整且决定性证据证明其无可争议之清白的球队来说,这一切可能被认为相当奇怪;但即便撇开这一点不谈,这一切产生的影响似乎相当明显。他们的首席执行官费兰·索里亚诺曾写道,他希望看到他的前东家巴塞罗那“赢得每一场比赛”,而不是帮助国内的竞争对手成长。曼城已经将这种逻辑内化。他们的利益与联赛的利益不再契合。

有些人可能会对此表示欢迎,他们会认为现行规则被操纵以有利于既有的精英阶层,认为禁止所有者向自己的俱乐部投资是违背直觉的,并坚信我们应该让市场自由运作。

但奇怪的是,这种逻辑似乎只在单向起作用。在这种说法中,曼城(以及其他球队)应该被允许利用其所有者巨额财富带来的固有优势,但他们试图超越的那些球队则不应如此。例如,在一个完全自由的市场中,曼联、利物浦和阿森纳——作为联赛中吸引力远超其他球队的三大巨头——为什么要分享电视转播收入?他们为什么要假装自己的私利与其他所有人的利益一致?一旦这种集体主义原则消失,变得像写它的那张纸一样毫无价值,为什么还会有人继续遵守它?

英格兰队证明他们懂得在最不需要的时候展现最佳状态

📄 外文原文 ↗

托马斯·图赫尔的球队在对阵克罗地亚时占据了绝对主导地位,简直到了荒谬的程度

克罗地亚

英格兰

A. 凯恩 (8, 53)

J. 贝林厄姆 (21)

A. 戈登 (39)

B. 萨卡 (45, 68)

M. 罗杰斯 (87)

乔治·西姆斯

里耶卡体育场

我们能每周都和你们踢球吗?不,我是认真的。如果我们能每周都和你们踢,真的会帮我们大忙。面对其他对手完全不是这种感觉。英格兰队在再次面对克罗地亚时,展现了自那以来最出色的 45 分钟,速度极快、流畅且目标明确,这既是一场关于这支球队能力的展示,也揭示了近期的一些表现与此相去有多远。

在 6,000 名克罗地亚学童面前——由于去年种族歧视法国球员,14 岁以上的球迷被禁止入场——在某些时刻,这场比赛足以让这些孩子终身厌恶这项运动。在过去的三十年里,英格兰队在英国境外单场比赛中进球数更多的对手只有圣马力诺。

但实际上,这场比赛应该被记住的是亚历克斯·斯科特首次在英格兰队首发,他是一名流畅且坚韧的足球运动员,正是这个国家据称无法培养出的西班牙式中场。尽管显然并不信任科比·梅努,但仍将其带到世界杯,是托马斯·图赫尔今年夏天最明显的错误,他已向斯科特暗示了这一点。斯科特和埃利奥特·安德森曾在 2025 年 U-21 欧锦赛夺冠阵容中共同首发,他们之间的互补性显然比安德森和赖斯之间要强,能够弥补彼此的弱点并强化优势。他控制节奏和回收球权的能力,应该使他成为赖斯或安德森位置上的真正竞争者。

而这里提供了迄今为止最清晰的证据,证明哈里·凯恩、朱德·贝林厄姆、布卡约·萨卡和安东尼·戈登可能是任何球队(无论是俱乐部还是国家队)中最具天赋、最危险且最平衡的进攻四人组,他们之间建立了一种在六个月前根本不存在的卓越凝聚力和默契。这是凯恩在 2026 年为英格兰队打入的第 10 和第 11 个进球,继 2019 年和 2021 年之后,这是他在国际足球赛场上第三个达到两位数进球的自然年。

双重打击:哈里·凯恩在里耶卡对阵弱势的克罗地亚队时打入两球。Igor Kupljenik / SPP / Imago GmbH / Avalon

这是戈登在四场英格兰比赛中的第四个进球,他在过去七场比赛中均有进球或助攻。他的成长,尤其是加入巴塞罗那之后,是一个关于自信的案例研究,揭示了被告知巴塞罗那愿意花费 7000 万英镑 购买你的服务能带来什么样的影响。从最浅层的意义上说,他看起来更出色了,更苗条、更敏锐,进攻更直接且高效。在三分钟内,他就迫使多米尼克·利瓦科维奇做出一次扑救,并在接下来的 70 分钟里带着极强的侵略性地冲刺,为英格兰队的第二个进球为贝林厄姆创造机会,随后又打入了第三球。他似乎觉得

凯恩、贝林厄姆、萨卡和戈登锻造出了一种在六个月前根本不存在的凝聚力

📄 外文原文 ↗

尽管他以一种前所未有的方式属于这里,而且在过去两场比赛中与刘易斯·霍尔(Lewis Hall)恢复合作,帮助他找到了更多的空间和机会。

也许最显而易见的结论是,所有足球比赛应该仅由学童参加。一旦你习惯了那永无止境的尖叫声,这确实非常有意思。有一个班级的学生显然高效地利用了他们的这一周,展开了一幅手绘横幅,上面写着:“它不会回家”(It's not coming home)。听着,这很公平,但 AI 可能会让他们的大脑萎缩到成年后难以正常运作的程度,所以谁才是真正的赢家?不同的学校对传统足球观众进行了不同的模仿:小手挥舞着想象中的黄牌,给出一些相当残酷的倒竖大拇指,并且未能发起起“人浪”,甚至偶尔会对英格兰队的渔夫帽阵营表现出些许攻击性。

在周二对阵捷克队的比赛中,图赫尔给了特伦特·亚历山大-阿诺德(Trent Alexander-Arnold)六年来首次国际赛首发,他在其中助攻了首粒进球,随后图赫尔迅速再次将他换下,由贾雷尔·宽萨(Jarell Quansah)顶替。宽萨通过一系列精准掉入六码区内的传中,尽力模仿亚历山大-阿诺德,并为戈登创造了机会。与此同时,克罗地亚队的表现就像是一支由斯拉文·比利奇(Slaven Bilić)执教的球队。

鲁耶维察体育场(Stadion Rujevica)开凿在里耶卡上方的山丘中,俯瞰着亚得里亚海,容量略高于 8,000 人。客队看台既被钢笼包围又覆盖着网,这让人不禁质疑大多数周六这里到底发生了什么——正如乔丹·皮克福德(Jordan Pickford)所称的 100 名英格兰“死忠”,他们原本被安排在这座看台中观看本场比赛,但随后他们提出了抗议。他们的冒险精神去哪了?赛前,喧闹的音乐在城市上空回荡,其中包括一首被证明是克罗地亚版改编的《We Didn’t Start The Fire》(副歌翻译为:我们虽少,但我们存在。这不重要,我们将粉碎所有人的梦想)。在这样的体育场里,你的表现只能达到一定的上限,这里绝不能成为英格兰队伟大表演的舞台。

高度自信:安东尼·戈登在半场前为英格兰队打入第三球。

Carl Recine/

Getty Images

这些比赛似乎正成为图赫尔率领的英格兰队的“甜蜜点”:世界排名在 10 到 20 之间、足够有能力且有野心的球队,能够提供空间,但又没有足够的资源来持续攻击英格兰防线上的软肋。这支球队在世界杯前的最佳表现是 2025 年 9 月在塞尔维亚的客场,而一年多后,他们超越了那次表现,展现出一种近乎残酷的冷酷。

这似乎总有一种必然感:这支球队会在一次重大赛事结束几个月后、距离下一次赛事将近两年时意识到自己的能力;它很可能在明年晚些时候的一场毫无意义的 2028 年欧洲杯预选赛(对阵匈牙利或芬兰)中达到巅峰,刚好赶在贝林厄姆遭遇前交叉韧带(ACL)断裂以及戈登三年不进球之前。在截然不同但同样毫无意义的情况下,英格兰队在过去四场比赛中有两场在半场时就以 4-0 领先。这是一支懂得在场合缩小时让自己变得更强大的球队,懂得将最好的表现留给最不需要它的时刻。

在过去八年里,英格兰队与克罗地亚队交手了六次,这是衡量两国进步的基准,是通过粗暴重复而形成的德比战,即便英格兰队现在在最近四场比赛中以 14 比 3 获胜,且自 2018 年世界杯半决赛以来五场不败。这次胜利具有宣泄感且充满乐趣,是对莫斯科之战的一小块复仇,尽管近乎荒诞,且统治力强到几乎使其失去了效力。我们可以每周都和你们踢一场吗?

在 BBC 决定取消其女子足球节目后,主持人从零开始打造了一个新节目,杰西卡·海登(Jessica Hayden)报道

📄 外文原文 ↗

周日晚上,杰斯·格林(Jess Glynne)在《One More Word》的演播室里四处奔走。她搬动家具,将空杯子扔进垃圾桶,并在拍摄开始前询问嘉宾是否已经去过洗手间。“我只是个负责社交媒体的女孩,”她说,红色的卷发在头顶随意地扎成一个发髻。“嗯,只要是需要做的事,我都会做。”在这里,她不再是那个正在创作下一张专辑的世界知名歌手杰斯·格林。她是亚历克斯·斯科特(Alex Scott)的伴侣杰西卡,实际上担任着由斯科特创立的 WSL YouTube 聊天节目的执行制片人。

该节目的形式是由每家 WSL 俱乐部的球迷或内容创作者组成讨论小组,坐在斯科特对面,由斯科特以及她的前足球运动员队友法拉·威廉姆斯(Fara Williams)和安妮塔·阿桑特(Anita Asante)共同主持,讨论周末的每场比赛。“这就是女子足球版的《每日比赛》(Match of the Day),”斯科特说。

这位前英格兰队队长在 BBC 的《女子足球节目》(Women's Football Show)被取消后,为了应对这一情况创建了该节目,并由她个人出资。“我们失去了一些东西,这是一个既定的决定,”她说。“而我当时就在想,‘我已经成立了 First Cap [一家制作公司],我可以做

“无论你认为我是否胜任我的工作……我一直为女子体育尽我最大的努力”一个节目,所以我就这么做了。”我总是看向事情积极的一面,掌控可控的部分。”她的声音中透着一股不屈之气。First Cap 制作了《One More Word》以及另一个预计在年底前启动的女子体育项目。

“我认为需要有一个能够讨论 WSL 赛程的节目,而且必须把它做好,”她说。“需求显然是存在的,关键在于尝试以正确的方式改进它,使其成为一个能树立标准的节目。

“事实上,通过取消《女子足球节目》,所有在该节目工作的人都失去了工作或收入。因此,我正在创造一个希望能给法拉 [威廉姆斯] 以及所有到场的评论员提供报酬,并为每个人提供一个平台的节目。这就是我的愿景——你们失去了那个平台,我正试图为你们提供替代方案。”

斯科特独自承担所有工作,从在社交媒体上寻找讨论组成员,到订披萨以及事后清理纸盒。演播室规模较小且具有工业风,但里面挤满了年轻且兴奋的足球迷,他们因为能与斯科特、威廉姆斯和阿桑特一起观看切尔西对阵阿森纳的比赛而感到欣喜若狂。

这种制作方式与斯科特在过去十年工作的电视演播室截然不同,有时显得有些简陋得可爱。格林坐在摄像机后的沙发上,通过笔记本电脑控制讨论小组用于分析的电视屏幕,但她并不总是能立即捕捉到女友切换到下一页幻灯片的信号。

“我们只有今晚可以使用这个演播室,所以现在必须全部拆除并打包,”拍摄结束后不久,斯科特说道。格林走过,肩上扛着部分布景。

斯科特现在每周花时间规划剧集,分析每场比赛,周日拍摄,然后周一监督剪辑。这是一项全职工作,而且让她花费了大量资金。该节目尚未向赞助商开放。

尽管工作量增加,但斯科特似乎比过去更快乐。她说话充满激情,仿佛内心被点燃了一把火。

毫无疑问,对斯科特来说这是困难的一年。在 BBC 体育部门大幅削减预算的一年里,运行了 52 年且由斯科特主持五年的 BBC 节目《足球聚焦》(Football Focus)在 4 月被砍掉。

全员出动:斯科特的新节目邀请了前职业评论员、WSL 球迷讨论组……以及她的伴侣杰斯·格林(右上)负责统筹。Chinonso

“这很艰难,因为我们都知道 BBC 正在发生什么以及所有的削减,我认为《足球焦点》(Football Focus)一直深受其害,”斯科特说道。“它在很大程度上背离了最初的节目面貌,如果你看那些头条新闻,人们认为那是我的结果。但我当时在想,‘并不是我想在节目中加入新部分。我必须出席并保持专业。’我只是到了一个难以应对的阶段。”

随后在上个月,由她主持的 Disney+ 女子欧冠节目第一集——

回顾过去:斯科特一直是 BBC 观众熟悉的面孔,主持过《女子足球秀》(Women's Football Show)、《足球焦点》甚至《The One Show》。Leila Coker / Getty

——该节目莫名其妙地出现了一只名叫 Barley Boy 的狗——遭到了糟糕的评价。斯科特对节目组所做出的所有决定并不满意。她指出,尽管她并不负责,但这些决定却让她成为了被指责的对象。

“我必须出席并完成我的工作,”她说。“最终,我是否同意所有做出的决定?绝对不同意。我是否尝试过提供建议?是的,但我能做的有限。这回到了一个问题上,实际上,我会出席,坐在那里,尽量保持专业,以一种……的方式呈现节目……”她停顿了一下,自我克制了一会儿,然后继续说道:“我尝试过了。”

“最终我总是会承担责任,因为我曾是那些节目的一部分,”她说。“我能做得更多吗?抛开对我个人的看法,无论你认为我是否胜任工作,每个人都会有自己的看法。但没有人看到我在幕后的对话和争吵。但我可以昂首挺胸,知道我一直为了……的整体利益而尽力。”

“女子体育。”

《One More Word》是斯科特第一次完全掌控一个节目。“我认为我的信心开始增长,我觉得[我知道]什么可能会奏效,”她说。在播出了四集后,反应褒贬不一,但斯科特表示,负面反馈已被采纳,且每一集都在有所改进。她承认第一集太吵了,嘉宾们不断地互相抢话。斯科特在每场节目后都会给嘉宾提供反馈,现在的拍摄氛围更加平静。

此前曾有过关于斯科特为 BBC 主持一个 WSL YouTube 节目的讨论,但在《One More Word》创建之前,此事尚未达成一致。“我还没有签署任何合同或类似文件,所以我很惊讶地看到我的名字,说我要主持一个新的 BBC YouTube 节目,”她说。“合同、最终阵容或任何关于 BBC 的事情都没有确认。”与此同时,WSL 对该节目表示支持。

她说,创办自己的节目并不是对 BBC 削减预算的抗议,但对于她认为的未能认可女子足球增长的行为,她表现出了明显的沮丧。“我觉得关于女子足球节目行不通,总是有关于收视率或需要省钱的借口,”她说。“而我认为,如果处理得当,它们是可以成功的;如果给予新鲜的创意或形式,它们可以成功。”

当我们再次见面时,距离拍摄已过去三天,斯科特花了一个上午将她在《足球焦点》中的服装装袋,准备送到慈善商店。“我只是觉得我面前有一个全新的开始,所以我几乎不想留住那个章节,每次我看到那排衣服,我就会想,‘那是我的《足球焦点》服装’,”她说。她在《One More Word》中的服装选择可以更时尚,不那么刻板,更像她自己。

这感觉就像是以一种利落的方式结束了一个章节,让人想起分手,但她坚持说并非如此,并且她对 BBC 依然心存感激。“能够主持像《儿童在需要》(Children In Need)和《One Show》这样的节目,至今仍让我感到不可思议,”她说。“在过去的 10 年里,BBC 给了我最惊人的机会,我将永远心存感激。

“所以,尽管目前围绕着 BBC 有种种情况,但我只要想到那个在伦敦东区一家酒吧开始起步的女孩——我依然不敢相信这是真的。但现在,这感觉新鲜且令人兴奋。”

潜力球员:莱克西·波特(Lexi Potter)在欧冠联赛中代表切尔西对阵里昂女足时给人留下了深刻印象(左)。Valerio Pennicino / Getty Images

波特与英格兰队的“人生转折点”可能至关重要

📄 外文原文 ↗

杰西·帕克·汉弗莱斯(Jessy Parker Humphreys)撰文指出,缺席 U20 世界杯可能会成为莱克西·波特(Lexi Potter)成名的契机。

劳拉·卡明斯基(Laura Kaminski)意识到莱克西·波特与众不同的时刻出现在赛季开始几周后。在 2023-24 赛季初,17 岁的波特以租借身份加盟卡明斯基执教的水晶宫队,希望在女子超级联赛 2.(WSL2)中首次体验成年足球。在最初的几周里,这名中场球员无法进入首发阵容,对于一名在切尔西和英格兰队都被视为同年龄段顶尖球员的人来说,这是一个令人沮丧的现实。

波特来到卡明斯基的办公室问她:“我需要做些什么才能上场?”

“我永远不会忘记那一刻,”现任挪威 SK 布兰队主教练的卡明斯基说道,“很多球员会问:‘为什么我不上场?’。而她的这种态度,这种勤奋和谦逊,让她拥有了今天的地位。”

如果波特的人生被拍成电影,接下来的 24 小时将会是一段配有励志音乐的蒙太奇场景。在卡明斯基告诉她,如果想在 WSL2 担任中场,她认为波特需要在哪些技术问题上努力之后,波特立即出去开始练习。

“我不需要为她设计训练课,也不需要激励她或说服她。我看着她——我永远不会忘记——在训练场上,在训练结束时练习我要求她练习的内容。我记得当时在想,这个孩子很特别。”

卡明斯基下一次给她机会进入球队,就是最后一次需要这么做。从那时起,她为水晶宫队连续出场,帮助球队赢得升级,并在接下来的赛季回到 WSL 为球队效力。“对我来说,如果没有莱克西,我们无法升级。我知道当时在那支球队效力的每一位球员都会这么说。”

切尔西已证明自己是女子足球顶尖的青训学院之一,但即使是对被视为俱乐部未来的人来说,进入成年队的路径依然艰辛。他们决定在上赛季不外租波特,但出场时间很难争取,仅有 14 场出场记录。“她可能没有获得她想要的时间,而且以她的质量,她理应获得,”索尼娅·邦帕斯托尔(Sonia Bompastor)在 11 月波特在欧冠对阵圣波尔滕队替补出场后承认道,“我知道她能有多出色。”

本赛季也出现了一个问题,即波特是否应该参加 9 月举行的 U20 世界杯。最终,切尔西替她做出了决定。她留在了球队,而足球的特性就在于,这个“人生转折点”可能会成为她职业生涯的关键。本赛季切尔西的 6 场比赛中,她首发了 4 场,包括在对阵阿森纳和里昂女足的比赛中打满全场。她强有力的表现引发了外界对其首次入选英格兰成年国家队的呼吁——在阿森纳赛后,邦帕斯托尔感叹道:“我希望她是法国人!”——本周,她如愿收到了萨里娜·维格曼(Sarina Wiegman)的征召。

“如果没有她,我们无法升级。每个球员都会这么说”——劳拉·卡明斯基

📄 外文原文 ↗

围绕波特(Potter)的兴奋感因她与凯拉·沃尔什(Keira Walsh)之间日益增强的搭档关系而进一步升级。卡明斯基在水晶宫对波特的比赛方式所做的改变之一,就是将她从一名全能中场(box-to-box midfielder)转变为更多地扮演 No 6. 角色。虽然她在单后腰(single pivot)位置上表现出色,但在与沃尔什组成双后腰(double pivot)时,她才真正赢得了赞誉。

很难想象世界足坛还有比这更好的年轻中场学习对象,但身披切尔西球衣的波特也激发出了这位 29 岁球员的最佳状态。值得注意的是,当波特在身边时,沃尔什在场上的自由度大大增加,这让人想起她在巴塞罗那的时光——那时她信任像帕特里·吉哈罗(Patri Guijarro)这样的球员在后方掩护,从而让她能够自由地前插。她现在足够信任波特并以同样的方式比赛,这本身就说明了很多问题。

“当莱克西(Lexi)在我身边踢球时,她让我感到非常舒适,”沃尔什说道。“我们拥有极佳的搭档关系。这可能是我大部分自信的来源。”

“我们看待比赛的方式非常相似。我们都以非常注重战术的方式看待足球,到目前为止,我非常享受与她一起踢球。坦白说,她可能会比我更出色。”沃尔什在成长过程中观看亚亚·图雷(Yaya Touré)、塞尔希奥·布斯克茨(Sergio Busquets)和佩普·瓜迪奥拉(Pep Guardiola)在巴塞罗那的比赛片段,而波特则将安德烈斯·伊涅斯塔(Andrés Iniesta)视为她最喜欢的球员。这在一定程度上解释了这对组合在场上的默契,邦帕斯托(Bompastor)表示,即便她们“闭上眼睛”,这种默契依然存在。

她们能代表英格兰队共同出战的可能性令人期待。

当卡明斯基听说波特被征召入选时,她正与她在水晶宫以及现在的布兰(Brann)队的守门员教练丹尼尔·马特拉谢克(Daniel Matraszek)在一起。他们通过 FaceTime 向她表示祝贺。

“她对此感到非常高兴,”卡明斯基说。“但与此同时,我知道她很脚踏实地。她是一名受教的球员,听从指导,并且希望一步一个脚印地确保自己的职业生涯可持续发展。我对这一点非常尊重。”

当被问及认为波特能达到什么高度时,卡明斯基给出了肯定的回答。

“我认为莱克西·波特没有上限。”

本周赛程数据指南 比尔·埃德加 (Bill Edgar)

📄 外文原文 ↗

曼彻斯特城 vs 阿森纳,周日,下午 4.30,WSL

曼城女足与男足一样,以 100% 的胜率开启了联赛赛季。WSL 冠军球队得到了卡迪贾·“邦尼”·肖(Khadija “Bunny” Shaw)决定延长留队时间的助力:上赛季,她成为首位在连续三个 WSL 赛季中成为最佳射手或共同最佳射手的球员,而本赛季她再次成为共同最佳射手。她并不是唯一一位高产的足球界“邦尼”。罗伯特·“邦尼”·贝尔(Robert “Bunny” Bell)是仅有的两名在 EFL 比赛中单场进球达到 9 个或更多的球员之一,他在 1935 年特兰米尔罗弗斯 13-4 击败奥尔德姆竞技的比赛中攻入 9 球。苏格兰 vs 斯洛文尼亚,周二,晚上 7.45,欧国联

在 2016-17 赛季代表苏格兰出场的 29 名球员中,只有 RB 莱比锡的奥利弗·伯克(Oliver Burke)效力于英国以外的俱乐部。然而,目前的苏格兰队阵中包含 11 名效力于海外的球员,他们可以在 3-5-2 阵型中全部在自然位置上出场:冈恩(圣何塞);亨德里(艾提法格)、麦肯纳(萨格勒布迪纳摩)、宾克斯(布隆德比);帕特森(都灵)、弗格森(博洛尼亚)、吉尔莫尔(那不勒斯)、米勒(乌迪内斯)、多伊格(萨索洛):尤尔(塞维利亚)、鲍伊(萨索洛)。英格兰 vs 捷克共和国,周二,晚上 7.45,欧国联

英格兰队正处于近 60 年来首次面对首字母相同的对手的四场连续赛程之中(已完成一半):捷克共和国、克罗地亚、捷克共和国、克罗地亚。这种情况上次发生在 1967 年 12 月至 1968 年 5 月,当时他们面对 S 开头球队的连续赛程延长到了 5 场:苏联、苏格兰、西班牙、西班牙、瑞典。亚历克斯·斯科特(Alex Scott)在对阵捷克共和国的比赛中完成首秀,这创造了同一个全名同时出现在英格兰男足和女足队中的首个案例:同名的女性电视节目主持人共获得了 140 次国家队出场机会。切尔西 vs 伯恩茅斯,周六,下午 3 点,英超联赛

在 2024-25 赛季,切尔西成为自 1989-90 赛季诺维奇城以来,首支在整个英格兰顶级联赛赛季中没有启用任何 28 岁或以上球员的球队。他们在上赛季延续了这种年轻化政策,但随后引入了年龄较大的乔丹·亨德森、丹尼·韦尔贝克和埃米利亚诺·马丁内斯。这留下了一个奇怪的空白。在切尔西自 2024 年 5 月以来选用的 61 名球员中,没有一名球员在出场时处于 29、30、31 或 32 岁。曼彻斯特联 vs 托特纳姆,周六,下午 5.30,英超联赛

热刺赛季开局糟糕,且似乎可能延长其在英格兰顶级联赛中不获冠军的最长连续参赛纪录:自 1978 年升级以来,这是他们在顶级联赛中连续参加的第 49 个赛季,期间从未获得冠军。紧随其后的是埃弗顿,他们同样拥有一个当前的连续纪录,这是自 1987 年获得冠军以来,他们连续参加顶级联赛的第 40 个赛季。

“我甚至没要求,就成了英国举重运动的代言人”

📄 外文原文 ↗

力量训练普及率的增长表明,“艾米莉·坎贝尔效应”正处于全面爆发期。作者:杰西·帕克·汉弗莱斯(Jessy Parker Humphreys)

在 2020 年东京奥运会上,当艾米莉·坎贝尔(Emily Campbell)成为英国首位赢得奥运奖牌的女性举重运动员时,这次经历改变了她的人生。突然之间,坎贝尔成为了英国举重运动以及“强壮女性”的代表人物,被推向了聚光灯下。

在女性努力重新定义运动方式的时期,人们开始征询她从身体形象到运动装的所有看法。不难理解其中的原因——她热情开朗、聪明且敢于直言。五年后的今天,在参加了《名厨》(Masterchef)节目之后,坎贝尔依然在就重要议题发声。

“艾米莉·坎贝尔效应”($^{™}$)在英国正全面爆发。比以往任何时候都更多的女性开始接触重量训练,渴望举起重物。全国各地的健身房都在扩大力量训练区,以满足需求。当坎贝尔最近观看青少年全国锦标赛时,她被参赛女孩的数量之多所震撼。她说,如果说有什么不足的话,那就是英国举重运动需要更多男孩参与进来。

“你会感觉到一种责任感,意识到你不仅仅是在为自己而战。你是在为一个更广泛的事业和你最热爱的运动而战。我永远会谈论我热爱的事物,而不会仅仅因为某件事现在很流行就盲目跟风。我会谈论那些我认为需要改变且我觉得自己能产生影响的事情。”

坎贝尔一直与健身公司 Les Mills 合作,他们的所有权以及说道:“你不能代表我。”

“有时因为我所处的位置以及我取得的成就,我觉得对我们的运动负有责任,”坎贝尔说。“我基本上在没有申请这份工作的情况下,就成了英国举重运动的代言人。这是我唯一一次不需要面试就得到的工作。”

谈到女性在健身房尝试项目方面的态度转变时,坎贝尔指出女性运动员的知名度在不断提高。“所有田径女孩因为她们的惊艳而被拍照,而肌肉正是这种惊艳的一部分。现在我们开始看到越来越多的女性在拥有肌肉发达的身体时,也被视为美丽,这很好。”

然而,坎贝尔对社交媒体有时描绘健身房的方式感到担忧,尤其是那些“让人望而却步”的视频。虽然女性专属健身房为了给女性创造一个没有男性干扰的锻炼空间而变得越来越受欢迎,但坎贝尔认为,人们有一种观念,觉得男性在健身房空间里的负面影响比实际情况更严重。

这种影响在各个年龄段都能感受到,坎贝尔朋友的女儿最近告诉她,她正在锻炼背部肌肉,这样穿舞会礼服时会更好看。

“我认为这是女性变得更加独立的体现,无论是在体育还是健身方面。女性的收入更高,女性掌控局面;这创造了一种让女性觉得‘好吧,我也能做到’的特质。”

以进一步推动女性接触力量训练。

“女性是否想要在男性周围训练,应该是她们自己的选择,”她说。“选择与女性一起训练应该是出于意愿,而不是因为她们觉得不能与男性一起训练。”

鉴于所有这些进步,坎贝尔表示,她对美国体育预测市场公司 Novig 最近的一则悉尼·斯威尼(Sydney Sweeney)广告感到失望,在该广告中,这位演员与各种体育器材一起裸体摆拍。坎贝尔承认,在引起轩然大波之前,她甚至从未听说过斯威尼。

“(有些女性)认为只要接触一下重量训练,就会看起来像健美运动员,”她说。“如果真是那样,请告诉我怎么做,因为我已经尝试了10年,但看起来还是不像那些健美运动员。”

“健身房里有很多男性会过来为你保护、为你加油,并对你的表现感到钦佩。应该有更多这样的情况。我们都必须团结起来,共同奋斗。”

“作为女子体育项目的运动员,我们必须艰苦奋斗,才能在平等竞争的环境中获得关注,并得到应有的尊重。可怕的是,竟然有这么多人认为那是好主意。积极的一面是,社交媒体上的强烈抗议非常棒。看到女性们夺回主导权——‘所有田径女孩因为出众而被拍照,而肌肉正是其中的一部分’。”

——艾米莉·坎贝尔(Emily Campbell)

坎贝尔对社交媒体为了获取点击量或点赞而夸大问题的担忧,受到了她在东京奥运会经历的影响。坎贝尔在东京奥运会上与劳雷尔·哈巴德(Laurel Hubbard)竞争,后者是首位公开承认跨性别身份并参加奥运会的女性,但坎贝尔发现,哈巴德的参赛所引发的关注掩盖了赛事本身。

“在东京,我们有10位不可思议的女性,她们是世界上最顶尖的选手,在那一天集结在一起进行决战,看谁能胜出,”她说。“而其他那些其实并不相关的议题,最终却掩盖了世界上最顶尖的运动员即将完成这项惊人之举的事实。”

“这就是社交媒体和健身房里发生的情况。你只关注一个男人身上发生的单一问题。但实际上,那天健身房里可能发生了10个美好的故事。两个女孩互相帮助,有人刷新了个人最好成绩,有人帮助纠正技术。但没有人会看到健身房里发生的一切,他们只看到了那个出问题的事项。”

在今年夏天的英联邦运动会上夺金后,坎贝尔将注意力转向第三次参加奥运会,并正式确认她将尝试获得2028年洛杉矶奥运会的参赛资格。为了实现这一目标,她必须在自己的级别中被评为全球前八名的举重运动员。

“大家都知道我热爱挑战,”她打趣道。“所以,是的,我将尝试前往洛杉矶,享受我人生中最后几年的举重生涯。现在已经全力以赴了。我们身在战壕之中,一切都已在进行中。”

强有力的影响:坎贝尔表示,她注意到在全国锦标赛中,参加举重比赛的女孩数量明显增加。Les Mills

“砂纸门”再次令人不安,澳大利亚队唤起痛苦回忆

📄 外文原文 ↗

吉迪恩·海格(Gideon Haigh)写道,自那场震惊澳大利亚板球界的作弊丑闻以来,球队首次在南非进行测试赛,这意味着必须重新面对那段不愉快且令人不安的过去。

相机:这就是史蒂夫·史密斯(Steve Smith)对八年前记忆中最深刻的东西。澳大利亚队那次灾难性的南非之旅让他陷入了声名狼藉的迷雾,并失去了队长之位,史密斯在很大程度上已经将这段记忆封锁在脑海中。但正如他在上个月的一次采访中所解释的,快门闪烁的迹象总能提醒他,在回到悉尼后,他面色苍白、泪流满面地走进那场极其艰难的新闻发布会。

史密斯能同意接受这次采访已经算很配合了。在此期间,对于澳大利亚队来说,“砂纸门”(Sandpapergate)一直是一个禁区。现在,他们即将重走旧路,在过去那次不幸行程的所有三个场馆进行测试赛,由史密斯的继任者帕特·库明斯(Pat Cummins)率领的球队似乎已经准备好面对关于他们经历的提问。

史密斯和库明斯是那次失利远征中幸存的五名成员之一,另外三人是米切尔·斯塔克(Mitchell Starc)、乔什·哈泽尔伍德(Josh Hazlewood)和内森·里昂(Nathan Lyon);马修·伦肖(Matthew Renshaw)则是作为替代人员之一被飞抵现场的。幕后工作人员已经全部更换;同样,澳大利亚板球协会(CA)董事会的每一位成员也全部更换了。

尽管如此,过去八年里所有参与澳大利亚板球运动的人都生活在该事件的遗产之中——包括随之而来的道德清算,以及关于究竟谁知道什么的未解之谜。

板球运动员在处理过去阴影方面实际上比大多数人都更擅长。他们必须如此。他们必须专注于眼前的事物,必须排除无关的干扰。反而是我们其他人一直在沉思。测试赛板球会留下深刻的记忆,而卡梅伦·班克罗夫特(Cameron Bancroft)偷偷将一块砂纸塞进护腿垫的画面依然清晰可见。

事件的一个显著维度是,消息在某个慵懒的周日早晨传回澳大利亚,由于发生时间太晚,早报无法刊登,专家无法发表评论,视频也无法进行微观分析。

人们所能依赖的只有班克罗夫特伪装出若无其事样子的片段,以及他与史密斯共同出席的那场尴尬的、你让他说我让他说的(you-tell-them-no-you-tell-them)新闻发布会。但这恰好契合了当时球队的背景:多年来,该队的对抗姿态和毫无歉意的辩解一直在挑战公众的同情心。澳大利亚人做得太过分了?大卫·华纳(David Warner)也参与其中?澳大利亚人似乎在说,这很可能就是事实——紧接着是致命一击:这不是代表我们的行为。

随着社交媒体上爆发的公众愤怒海啸,主流媒体难以跟上节奏,而管理层则完全措手不及。到了下午,在一个不可避免的安静新闻日,澳大利亚总理已经发表了看法,而此时甚至还没有滴一滴印刷油墨,也没有发送一份内部备忘录。一周之内,澳大利亚最顶尖的两名球员史密斯和华纳就与班克罗夫特一起登上了回国的航班,他们的教练达伦·莱曼(Darren Lehmann)也预示了他的离职。

事后看来,澳大利亚板球协会(CA)在控制赛场损害方面做得还算不错:调查虽然不完全彻底,但很迅速;球员们服完了禁赛期并逐步回归;他们重新加入的球队在过去八年里保持了近乎完美的行为准则记录。

就其自身而言,CA 的成功程度可以说较低。其高层长期以来以连续性著称,首席执行官詹姆斯·萨瑟兰(James Sutherland)长达 17 年的任期便是证明。在“砂纸门”发生后的四个月内,萨瑟兰宣布退休。董事会首位独立

失势:史蒂夫·史密斯在 2018 年流泪出席的新闻发布会,当时他被剥夺了澳大利亚队队长职务并被禁赛一年。Peter Parks/

这使得本次测试赛可能比近年来任何一次都更具火药味

📄 外文原文 ↗

主席大卫·皮弗(David Peever)启动了一项由外部顾问进行的组织审查,其结果之糟糕导致他丢掉了工作,而澳大利亚板球协会(CA)最近任命了大卫·布恩(David Boon)为其九年内的第六任主席。

并非所有的人员更替都是出于同样的原因——CA与私人投资的接触是最近的导火索。然而,通过损害外部对该组织的信心并引发利益相关者的不信任,“砂纸门”使这项运动变得更加脆弱,缺乏团结。这里的板球运动正处于一个奇怪的时期,左手不知道右手在做什么。

现在,或许是迟到了,球队面临着审查,包括在其自身的记录中。上个月宣布,卡明斯(Cummins)率领的球队将再次允许摄像机进入更衣室,拍摄他们广受欢迎的纪实纪录片《测试》(The Test)的第四季。讽刺的是,《测试》的初衷部分是为了在“砂纸门”之后让澳大利亚队重新赢得公众的喜爱。如今,局面已然转了一圈回到了原点。

澳大利亚队将在金斯米德(Kingsmead)开始本系列赛,他们曾在2018年在那里获胜,但那里也是楼梯间情绪失控被闭路电视捕捉到的地方——沃纳(Warner)不得不与昆顿·德科克(Quinton de Kock)被分开的泄露片段,不仅增加了客队的偏执,还鼓励了观众抛出更多的挑衅。

所有的道路不可避免地都指向开普敦,澳大利亚在“砂纸门”两年后在那里赢得了一场T20国际赛,部分解除了在那里的诅咒,但他们也在2009年和2011年的测试赛中输掉了比赛。

这使得本次测试赛可能比近年来任何一次都更具火药味,因为参与其中的是上一个世界测试锦标赛周期的冠军和本周期的领先者。球迷们也等待了很长时间:奇怪的是,当南非队在周五登场时,这将是他们641天来的首场主场红球赛事。

南非队在ODI预赛期间表现更好,在上周以两场胜一场负赢得了系列赛。他们看起来势不可挡;他们可能在极小程度上更被看好。无论如何,现场将会有摄像机——大量的摄像机。

观看指南

南非 对阵 澳大利亚

天空体育板球频道(Sky Sports Cricket)

首场测试赛周五上午8.30开始

乔纳森·泰勒曾想成为一名 NASA 的天体物理学家,作者:帕迪·冯·贝尔 (Paddy von Behr)

📄 外文原文 ↗

学术卓越往往似乎与体育成功互不相容。那些幸运地兼具智慧与体魄的少数人往往在早期就选择专业化,因此当我们看到弗兰克·兰帕德在拉丁语 GCSE 考试中获得 A* 时会赞许地点头,或者分享曼努埃尔·阿坎吉惊人算术速度的病毒式视频。在成为世界上最著名的在世科学家之前,尼尔·德格拉斯·泰森曾是他高中摔跤队的无敌队长。

乔纳森·泰勒则略有不同。在高中快结束时,当顶尖的足球潜力股通常在权衡奖学金邀请时,他正瞄准 NASA 的职业生涯,并申请在哈佛大学学习天体物理学。泰勒被录取了,但随后拒绝了他们。现在,十年后,这位印第安纳波利斯小马队的跑卫作为 NFL 最优秀的球员之一来到了伦敦。

小时候,泰勒对外层空间很着迷,这并不罕见,但这个阶段从未过去。他没有崇拜巴里·桑德斯或埃米特·史密斯,而是仰慕泰森(尼尔·德格拉斯,而非迈克),被他能够清晰解释宇宙中一些最复杂概念的能力所吸引。当他的朋友们在 Xbox 上玩《麦登》时,他梦想着进入太空。

在美国高中系统中,4.0 的平均绩点 (GPA) 代表全部 A,学生只有通过选修更高水平的课程才能超过这个门槛。泰勒达到了 4.1 的 GPA。他一心向往哈佛大学并获得了录取。“这就像拿到了博士学位,”他多年后告诉《纽约时报》,“你可以在余生中将‘哈佛毕业生’这几个字缝在你的名字旁边。”

然而,随着申请过程的推进,他产生了一个挥之不去的念头:“如果我能在声名显赫的 Big Ten 联盟打球会怎样?我足够优秀吗?”泰勒在 12 岁时第一次尝试足球,仅仅是因为他的表亲阿马尼在打球,而他极具天赋:速度、平衡感,以及那种全 A 学生天生具备的对细节的关注。他正是泰森喜欢称之为“极客运动员” (geek jock) 的典型代表。

他在高中毕业时是一名三星级招募球员——一名有前途的球员,但未被认为是非常特别。顶尖的足球大学并没有争抢他的签名,但威斯康星大学对此感兴趣。獾队在 Big Ten 联盟中比赛。渴望泰勒加入其球队的哈佛大学教练蒂姆·墨菲警告这个青少年:

“不要成为那个‘本可以去哈佛’的人”,但他的决定很快就做出了。“一旦我发现 [威斯康星大学] 是 [全美] 前 20 的学术机构,这件事就基本敲定了,”泰勒说。

一名青少年时期的泰勒在 2017 年抵达威斯康星大学,当时他是獾队名单上的第五顺位跑卫,但这并没有持续太久。在季前训练营中引起关注后,他很快成为了首发并迅速进入状态,随后成为顶级大学足球历史上首位在连续三个赛季中冲球码数至少达到 1,900 码并获得 50 次达阵的球员。

在 2020 年选秀第二轮被小马队选中后,泰勒迅速将这种成功转化为 NFL 的战绩。在第二年,他领跑联盟的冲球码数 (1,811) 和达阵数 (18),并获得年度最佳进攻球员的亚军,仅次于库珀·库普在公羊队创下的历史性超级碗夺冠赛季。

上赛季,他重新找回了那种电光火石般的状态。当印第安纳波利斯在 11 月前往柏林对阵亚特兰大猎鹰队时,他以

244 码冲球

和三次得分将其击溃,其中包括一次令人惊叹的 83 码达阵冲球,这是小马队历史上最长的一次。在那时,赛季进行到第 10 场比赛,他已经完成了 891 码的接触后冲球码数。这比五个完整球队的总冲球码数还要多:布朗队、突袭者队、钢人队、泰坦队和孟加拉虎队。

泰勒面临的问题是,印第安纳波利斯小马队一直难以闯入季后赛——自从新秀年参加的一场季后赛之后,这位 27 岁的球员再也没有在联赛的关键阶段登场,而且今年的开局也很糟糕。上周末,他们勉强击败休斯顿德州人队,避免了令人恐惧的 0-3 开局。今天在托特纳姆,华盛顿指挥官队将成为他们实现有意义的复苏之前的阻碍。

泰勒是关键人物:让他哑火,你就有机可乘;让他突破你的防线,你就麻烦了。

每个休赛期,全联盟的球员都会投票选出他们认为最优秀的同辈球员,并汇总出一份权威的前 100 名名单——泰勒在那个突破之年后曾完全掉出名单,但今年夏天他回到了第 17 位。

“我告诉你,”泰勒在威斯康星大学时的跑卫教练约翰·塞特尔(John Settle)几年前曾说,“如果他在这方面没这么出色,他现在应该在 NASA 工作了。他就是那么聪明。”也许有一天他真的会去。

花更少的钱,享受更优质的居家之夜

📄 外文原文 ↗

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足球是我逃避母亲成为肥皂剧名人的避风港

📄 外文原文 ↗

《每日邮报》首席体育撰稿人奥利弗·霍尔特(Oliver Holt)讲述他终身痴迷足球的开端

当艾琳·德比郡(Eileen Derbyshire)二十多岁,还在寻找角色且不确定自己能否成为一名演员时,她在莱斯特广场的一家大电影院担任检票员,并在圣约翰伍德做临时秘书。

随后她做出了决定:她要倾尽所有地追求表演事业。她离开了伦敦,加入了一家名为“世纪剧院”(The Century Theatre)的巡回剧团。她过着一种漂泊的生活,与同事们一起在全国各地巡演。

她表演了数量繁多的剧目,住在房车里;她每天晚上协助搭建和拆除木制观众席,拥抱波希米亚式的生活。在不巡演的时候,她会去争取其他剧院的角色,但往往以失败告终。

为了能有一个基本的生活基地,她搬回了位于曼彻斯特市中心西郊一个安静社区——厄姆斯顿(Urmston)的父母家中。她将所有来自哈利法克斯、奥尔德姆和曼彻斯特等地方剧院的拒信保存在一个文件夹里。那里有 30 或 40, 封信,印在带有抬头信纸上,打字整洁。

“我在看台找到了我的逃避之所。我的性格及其所有缺陷,都被吞没在汹涌且沸腾的整体之中”

艾琳现在 94 岁了。对于更广大的世界来说,她更广为人知的身份是《加冕街》(Coronation Street)中的艾米莉·纽根(Emily Nugent),后来叫艾米莉·毕晓普(Emily Bishop)。在那些拒信之后,她在接下来的 55 年里成为了英国历史上最受欢迎且最长寿的电视节目之一的中流砥柱。她深受人们的喜爱和钦佩,无论走到哪里,节目的粉丝都能认出她。但她也是我的母亲,而我是一个害羞的孩子,我想尽一切努力来避免这种被认出的感觉。

我难以应对她的名气。我长了痤疮,社交不自信,不喜欢派对,而且很敏感。这些特质与有一个被所有人注视的母亲完全不相容。虽然没有达到“披头四狂热”的程度,但我们无论走到哪里她都会被认出来,人们在走过我们身边时会盯着她看,或者彼此窃窃私语,

或者在看到她时模仿《加冕街》中的其他角色。

她始终非常有礼貌。大多数人都很尊重她,她也知道节目的粉丝对她和她的同事们有多么重要。每当人们走过来告诉她他们多么热爱《加冕街》,以及她的角色给他们带来了多少快乐时,她总是心怀感激。

我本该有同样的感觉,但我没有。我对此感到愤恨。我不喜欢这种侵扰。我为此感到尴尬。我变得病态地擅长捕捉母亲被粉丝认出的那一刻:那比平时多停留一秒的目光,在她走过之后人们头部的转动,以及向朋友低语告知对方刚刚发现了艾米莉。我对这一切产生了一种第六感。我讨厌它。

我知道那些论据。那些热爱《加冕街》中母亲角色、想要见到扮演该角色之女性的人,也是那些支付她工资的人,这意味着我在圣诞节能得到一双新足球鞋和一个像样的网球拍。

但我并不想要关注。我想要的是相反的结果。我想消失。而真正让我能够做到这一点的事情就是去看足球赛。成为人群的一部分。我在看台上找到了我的逃避之所,在那里,我的性格及其所有缺陷都被吞没在汹涌、摇摆、沸腾的整体之中。在看台上,没有人注视你。没有人会问你为什么没有女朋友这种尴尬的问题。没有人会因为你不酷而评判你。

从一开始,我就时不时地把妈妈拉进足球事务中。在我六岁那年,也就是 1972, 11月 18 日,她带我看了第一场比赛,那是梅恩路球场的一场曼彻斯特德比。但斯托克波特郡队成了我的痴迷对象。在看了第一场对阵奥尔德肖特的比赛后,我又看了几场主场比赛,然后在 1979-80 赛季,我在埃杰利公园球场看了 23 场联赛中的 20 场。我完全沉浸其中。我在纪念品店买了一张又大又长的贴纸,上面写着“Go,

“我想消失。真正让我能够做到这一点的是去看足球”:奥利弗·霍尔特在家里,周围环绕着足球纪念品。

年轻时的霍尔特一家:“我们三个关系很紧密,妈妈、爸爸和我。”

肖像画由 Tom Pilston 绘制

1979, 3月的欧联杯决赛,我告诉她,如果我想有机会买到票,我们就必须出现在梅恩路球场的售票处。

“Go, County”(前进,前进,郡队),然后把它贴在妈妈那辆大众帕萨特的后挡风玻璃上。

那天是上学日,梅恩路球场的售票处 5.30, 关闭,所以我知道时间会很紧。但我说服妈妈在格拉纳达工作室完成拍摄后来接我,并带我回到曼彻斯特。这意味着她在辛苦工作一天后,还要在车里待两个多小时,但我并不在意。于是我在校门外等待。我等了,又等了,又等了。最终,她出现了。

她对此并不完全满意。当她开着贴满“, , County”的车抵达位于码头街的格拉纳达电视工作室时,这在她的演员同事中引起了极大的哄笑。

当我试图买比赛门票时,她也是我的司机。当曼城在四分之一决赛中抽到门兴格拉德巴赫队时——

在街头:在《街道冠冕》中饰演斯坦·奥格登和明妮·考德威尔的 Bernard Youens 和 Margot Bryant 站在奥利弗和他妈妈身后。

我跳进车里,告诉她如果我们想有机会及时赶到售票处,就必须快点。妈妈是一个有着难以言表之耐心的女人,但这一次她的耐心耗尽了。原来她在离开曼彻斯特时被堵在了车流中,并在旅程的后半段试图赶时间。在离麦克尔斯菲尔德不远的地方,警察因为她超速而将她拦下,给她训了一顿,并开了一张罚单——这与我想要的那种票截然不同。

在 1979 年末,《街道冠冕》接近其巅峰时期。该剧每周播出两次,周一和周三播出半小时一集,吸引了大约 2000 万 观众。我也看这部剧。我们三个关系很紧密,妈妈、爸爸和我,每当晚上 7. 30pm 《街道》开播时,我们总是排在电视机前,晚餐经常放在膝上的托盘里。很少有事情能打破这个惯例。

妈妈专注地观看每一集。时不时地,她会讲一个关于拍摄某个特定场景时发生的故事。通常是她忘词(dried)或者忍不住笑场(corpsed)的时候。有些同事比其他人更容易让她笑场。

爸爸则以不同的眼光看待这部剧。他是个非常记仇的人。如果妈妈告诉他某个演员做了什么可能稍微让人恼火的事情,那么每当那个演员饰演的角色出现在屏幕上时,爸爸都会提起这件事。

在大多数剧集中,我们都会经历这样一个流程:爸爸会对某个演员发表评论,妈妈说她后悔告诉他那个故事,他会对此发出哼声,她让他安静点以便看节目,然后他会气冲冲地走开去给她泡杯茶。

母亲完全致力于她的艺术。我们家有一个习惯,就是父亲会在拍摄前一晚陪她过一遍每一个场景。他们每天晚上都会在厨房餐桌旁练习她的台词,父亲扮演阿尔夫·罗伯茨、丽塔·费尔克劳或希尔达·奥格登的角色,偶尔还会用滑稽的声音说话,而我的母亲则磨练她的回应。

显然,我为她感到自豪。我一直为她感到自豪。我一直钦佩她如此努力工作,以及她如何避开那些随之而来的无关事物

奥利弗最喜爱的五个英格兰足球场

📄 外文原文 ↗

1. 斯托克波特,埃杰利公园球场 (Edgeley Park, Stockport)

我热爱这里并非因为其建筑的壮丽,而是因为它对我意味着什么。我依然能凝视着那个座位,那是父亲第一次带我来时我坐的地方。对我而言,前往斯托克波特的球场关乎一种归属感。

2. 富勒姆,克拉文小屋球场 (Craven Cottage, Fulham)

约翰尼·海恩斯看台是英格兰足球界最美丽的建筑。现在的许多体育场看起来都大同小异,因此任何在角落里有一座小屋的球场都值得珍惜。

3. 安菲尔德,利物浦

📄 外文原文 ↗

虽然由于一日游游客和企业客户的涌入,这里的氛围受到了一定影响,但它依然是我们这项运动中最伟大的圣殿。俯视那片球场,想到那里发生过的一切,使其成为了一个充满魔力的地方。

4. 希尔-迪金森体育场,埃弗顿

在我的最爱新建筑名单中,我会把它排在托特纳姆热刺体育场之上。它具有真正的个性,且坐落在默西河口岸,景色绝美。

5. 圣詹姆斯公园,埃克塞特

这里坐落在天然的圆形剧场之中,一端是巨大的大看台(Big Bank),我热爱这座球场的个性。这是一个友好的俱乐部,对自己的过去心怀敬畏。它很美。

名声,而完全专注于她的工作、家庭以及一小圈朋友。她追求的是表演,而非随之而来的附加名利。

我知道她在其他演员中的受欢迎程度。我指的受欢迎并非她是派对上的灵魂人物,而是她对同事们(无论老少)都非常友善,且慷慨无私。当饰演 Minnie Caldwell 的 Margot Bryant 生病并被送往曼彻斯特南部的一家医院时,其他人似乎忘记了她,但母亲没有。

除此之外,我一直很清楚,在那个养家糊口仍被广泛认为是男性领域的时候,她是我们家的经济支柱。

***

有些演员在角色中找到了匿名感,或者说是一种逃避。我认为母亲就是如此。这让她能够逃避在第二次世界大战期间成长所滋生的所有焦虑。这让她能够成为另一个人。足球对我而言也起到了同样的作用。

母亲的一些记忆现在正在消退,但在许多方面,她比十年前更快乐,那时她被看到父亲与阿尔茨海默病搏斗的悲伤所击垮。关于《街道冠冕》(Coronation Street)的记忆并未离开她,演员与剧组之间协作带来的快乐也同样如此。

她现在住在一个专门为退休演员和导演、音乐家设立的绝佳养老院里。墙上挂着旧剧院节目单的复制品。

两年前,她给我讲了一个故事:在她二十多岁时,父亲带她去曼彻斯特市中心的迪恩斯盖特(Deansgate)一家商店买裙子。那时她已致力于表演,刚刚开始在《街道冠冕》中出演。当他们看着橱窗里的裙子时,父亲对她说:“艾琳,你难道不觉得有点奇怪吗?你把一生都花在假装成一个不是你的人身上。”

她地想起这件事时笑了。她深爱着她的父亲,这是她最喜欢的故事之一。而现在,有时她再次成为了一个不是她的人。有时,感觉就像她再次在扮演一个角色,而这其中有一种慰藉。有时,她认不出那个白发、走路微跛、带着一只老格雷灰狗来探望她的 60 岁男人。如果我在她的记忆中依然是那个被她带去第一次看球的、睁大眼睛的孩子,那么这同样是一种慰藉。

改编自

奥利弗·霍尔特(Oliver Holt)的

《九十二:

足球场人生》

由 Quercus 出版

汤姆·卡兰-赖利(Thom Callan-Riley)

许多走在波尔多主广场上的人都行色匆匆。他们将佩-贝尔兰广场(Place Pey-Berland)仅仅视为前往某地的通道——也许是去市政厅开会,或者是去参观这座法国城市著名的圣安德烈大教堂(Cathédrale Saint-André)。但该市副市长亚历山德拉·西亚里(Alexandra Siarri)表示,当他们穿过广场时,可能会看到一些天使经过。

西亚里说,这些天使的移动方式不同:“他们拥有不同的速度,不同的节奏,”并且在这种过程中带来了一种特定的平静。她所说的这些“天使”其实是滑板运动员,这代表了波尔多的一次显著转变。

此前,滑板在全市的公共空间是被禁止的。当局试图通过每次最高 €70 (£60) 的罚款来强制执行这一禁令,甚至采取了逮捕措施。这一过程在 2016 年达到顶峰,当时开出了 1,000 多张罚单,显然惩罚措施并未奏效。于是,市政府同意尝试一种不同的方法,并开始与滑板运动员合作。

一场由在波尔多出生并长大的职业滑板运动员利奥·瓦尔斯(Léo Valls)牵头的调解进程随即展开。“作为滑板手,我们必须设身处地地考虑那些反对我们的人,”他说,“去理解我们在某种程度上可能会造成干扰,但同时也要提醒他们,我们也是这座城市的一部分,我们必须想办法在同一个空间中共存。”

瓦尔斯所谈论的是“滑板都市主义”(skate urbanism)——它并不主张增加更多指定的滑板公园(这些公园通常位于城市边缘),而是提议将滑板无缝地整合到公共空间之中。支持者表示,这不仅仅是因为他们想要更多滑板场地,更关乎社交互动,以及寻找创造性的方式来挑战日益极化的城市。

波尔多已经从一些小规模的干预(例如允许在特定时间滑板)发展到了制定全市范围的战略。这种整体性的方法使其成为了国际上滑板都市主义的领先模型之一。

上周末,瓦尔斯和市政府官员邀请了来自世界各地的滑板运动员、学者、建筑师和城市规划师参加 Connect 节,旨在学习波尔多的经验,并分享在各自城市中整合滑板的经历。“每个城市都不同,”瓦尔斯说,“我们所做的事情没有万能公式。它更像是一种你可以引入公共政策的哲学。”

归根结底,这关乎公共空间的用途问题。“到目前为止,城市的建设方式非常注重功能性,”西亚里说,“每个人都有自己的专属区域。”西亚里的工作就是研究如何将人们聚集在一起,创造一些更民主的东西。她认为,滑板同时具备多种属性——它是一项运动、一种生活方式、一种艺术形式,也是一种游戏形式——由于它处于人们对公共空间使用限制的认知之外,因此可以帮助实现这一目标。

从被禁到被爱:滑板如何塑造城市

📄 外文原文 ↗

波尔多采用了“滑板城市主义”来改变人们对如何使用公共空间的认知并鼓励社交互动——但这并非适合所有人

来自瑞典马尔默的滑板城市主义领军人物古斯塔夫·伊登(Gustav Eden)将滑板运动员比作舞池中的第一批舞者。如果他们站起来并以富有表现力的方式开始移动,其他人也会随之效仿。

东京大学的学者山崎贵宏(Takahiro Yamazaki)将其描述为一种“再野化”形式——将滑板运动员想象成海狸——通过引入一个特定物种,可以对整个生态系统产生巨大的影响。他说,滑板运动员可以改变其他用户占用和思考公共空间的方式,并且可以鼓励更多的游戏、更多的想象力以及与同伴之间更多的互动。

即使是以惊人的空中动作闻名的托尼·霍克(Tony Hawk)也在支持这一运动。由霍克创立的“滑板公园项目”(The Skatepark Project)基金会旨在全美建设大型专业设施,现在正转向将在公共空间创造滑板机会的项目纳入其中。这种想法有时看起来像乌托邦——通过引入滑板来解决社会弊端——但这并非简单的“只要建成,他们就会来”的问题。滑板城市主义者表示,在为公共空间设计更多互动时,他们会思考这些相遇的具体形式。

来自美国的著名社会学家理查德·塞内特(Richard Sennett)则不那么信服。他研究城市已有 50 年多,现年八十多岁,有时拄着拐杖行走,他说他不希望在城市中穿行时,有滑板运动员向他疾速冲来。

“这是一个陈词滥调,”塞内特说,“它真正破坏了对城市的思考——即认为不同类型的活动之间互动越多越好。”他希望消除这样一种观念,即任何形式的社交互动都是好的互动。

滑板运动员就像舞池中的第一批舞者:如果他们开始移动,其他人也会随之效仿

滑板城市主义的倡导者认为,这正是需要调解的地方。在 Connect 活动中,对话不断回到滑板城市主义的哲学上。它始于社区参与,思考谁被排除在外,或者谁可能会被排除在外。“我们讨论的是让每个人都变得更好,所以我们需要每个人都参与其中,”致力于展示滑板运动中女性和性别少数群体的《Dolores Magazine》编辑赖莎·阿巴尔(Raisa Abal)说道。

“滑板公园项目”的内夫塔利·威廉姆斯(Neftalie Williams)博士表示,这些对话最终会影响设计。它们可以揭示人们在公共空间中使用和感受的多样化体验。“滑板文化可以是解放性的,”威廉姆斯说,“但你必须了解、理解并希望以某种方式运用它,才能获得这种结果。”

思想的碰撞:在波尔多举行的 Connect 节聚集了滑板运动员、学者、城市规划师等,包括编辑滑板杂志的赖莎·阿巴尔(右)。Cyril Zannett찌

Sky Bet 英甲联赛

📄 外文原文 ↗

| 场次< / > 胜< / > 平< / > 负< / > 进球< / > 失球< / > 净胜< / > 积分< / > | 普利茅斯< / > 9< / > 5< / > 1< / > 3< / > 16< / > 11< / > 5< / > 16< / >< / > 布拉德福德< / > 8< / > 5< / > 1< / > 2< / > 8< / > 5< / > 3< / > 16< / >< / > 哈德斯菲尔德< / > 8< / > 4< / > 3< / > 1< / > 14< / > 7< / > 15< / >< / > 谢菲尔德周三< / > 7< / > 4< / > 2< / > 1< / > 13< / > 6< / > 7< / > 14< / >< / > 斯托克波特城< / > 8< / > 4< / > 1< / > 3< / > 17< / > 10< / > 7< / > 13< / >< / > 剑桥联< / > 8< / > 3< / > 4< / > 1< / > 13< / > 11< / > 2< / > 13< / >< / > 雷丁< / > 8< / > 3< / > 2< / > 17< / > 10< / > 7< / > 12< / >< / > 伯顿阿尔比恩< / > 9< / > 3< / > 14< / > 15< / > -1< / > 12< / >< / > AFC温布尔登< / > 8< / > 3< / > 2< / > 6< / > 8< / > -2< / > 12< / >< / > 牛津联< / > 6< / > 3< / > 2< / > 1< / > 13< / > 7< / > 6< / > 11< / >< / > 莱顿东方< / > 8< / > 3< / > 1< / > 4< / > 13< / > 11< / > 2< / > 10< / >< / > 威科姆< / > 8< / > 2< / > 4< / > 2< / > 13< / > 16< / > -3< / > 10< / >< / > 史蒂夫尼奇< / > 7< / > 2< / > 3< / > 2< / > 11< / > 8< / > 3< / > 9< / >< / > 莱斯特< / > 7< / > 2< / > 3< / > 2< / > 9< / > 11< / > -2< / > 9< / >< / > 黑池< / > 7< / > 2< / > 3< / > 13< / > 0< / > 8< / >< / > 卢顿< / > 7< / > 2< / > 3< / > 12< / > 14< / > -2< / > 8< / >< / > 曼斯菲尔德< / > 7< / > 2< / > 3< / > 10< / > 13< / > -3< / > 8< / >< / > 巴恩斯利< / > 7< / > 2< / > 3< / > 7< / > 12< / > -5< / > 8< / >< / > 布罗姆利< / > 7< / > 2< / > 3< / > 8< / > 18< / > -10< / > 8< / >< / > 诺丁汉郡< / > 7< / > 1< / > 4< / > 2< / > 7< / > 9< / > -2< / > 7< / >< / > 唐卡斯特< / > 7< / > 1< / > 3< / > 8< / > 9< / > -1< / > 6< / >< / > 米尔顿凯恩斯< / > 7< / > 0< / > 6< / > 1< / > 8< / > 10< / > -2< / > 6< / >< / > 彼得伯勒< / > 8< / > 1< / > 2< / > 5< / > 4< / > 13< / > -9< / > 5< / >< / > 威根< / > 7< / > 1< / > 5< / > 12< / > -7< / > 4< / >< / > 伯顿阿尔比恩< / > < / > 1< / > | 哈德斯菲尔德< / > 3< / >< / > 莱顿东方< / > < / > 0< / > | 普利茅斯< / > 2< / >< / > 雷丁< / > < / > 1< / > | 布拉德福德< / > 1< / > |

Sky Bet 第二联赛

📄 外文原文 ↗

| 场次< / > 胜< / > 平< / > 负< / > 进球< / > 失球< / > 净胜球< / > 积分< / > | 索尔福德城< / > 9< / > 5< / > 1< / > 3< / > 13< / > 10< / > 3< / > 16< / >< / > 巴尼特< / > 7< / > 4< / > 3< / > 0< / > 17< / > 10< / > 7< / > 15< / >< / > 克鲁< / > 9< / > 3< / > 6< / > 0< / > 11< / > 7< / > 4< / > 15< / >< / > 切尔滕纳姆< / > 9< / > 4< / > 3< / > 2< / > 16< / > 14< / > 2< / > 15< / >< / > 布里斯托尔流浪者< / > 9< / > 5< / > 0< / > 4< / > 14< / > 0< / > 15< / >< / > 约克< / > 8< / > 4< / > 2< / > 16< / > 10< / > 6< / > 14< / >< / > 沃尔索尔< / > 8< / > 3< / > 5< / > 0< / > 11< / > 5< / > 6< / > 14< / >< / > 切斯特菲尔德< / > 9< / > 4< / > 2< / > 3< / > 15< / > 12< / > 3< / > 14< / >< / > 格里姆斯比< / > 9< / > 3< / > 4< / > 2< / > 13< / > 10< / > 3< / > 13< / >< / > 吉林厄姆< / > 9< / > 3< / > 4< / > 2< / > 11< / > 9< / > 2< / > 13< / >< / > 罗奇代尔< / > 9< / > 4< / > 1< / > 4< / > 10< / > 11< / > -1< / > 13< / >< / > 特兰米尔< / > 9< / > 2< / > 5< / > 2< / > 12< / > 0< / > 11< / >< / > 斯温登< / > 9< / > 3< / > 2< / > 4< / > 9< / > 13< / > -4< / > 11< / >< / > 什鲁斯伯里< / > 9< / > 3< / > 2< / > 4< / > 9< / > 14< / > -5< / > 11< / >< / > 纽波特郡< / > 9< / > 2< / > 4< / > 3< / > 12< / > 0< / > 10< / >< / > 阿克灵顿< / > 9< / > 2< / > 4< / > 3< / > 13< / > 14< / > -1< / > 10< / >< / > 罗瑟勒姆< / > 9< / > 2< / > 4< / > 3< / > 11< / > 12< / > -1< / > 10< / >< / > 弗利特伍德镇< / > 9< / > 2< / > 4< / > 3< / > 9< / > 10< / > -1< / > 10< / >< / > 科尔切斯特< / > 8< / > 2< / > 4< / > 2< / > 10< / > 12< / > -2< / > 10< / >< / > 埃克塞特< / > 9< / > 2< / > 3< / > 4< / > 5< / > 6< / > -1< / > 9< / >< / > 奥尔德姆< / > 8< / > 2< / > 1< / > 5< / > 9< / > 13< / > -4< / > 7< / >< / > 北安普顿< / > 7< / > 1< / > 3< / > 6< / > -3< / > 6< / >< / > 波特韦尔< / > 7< / > 1< / > 2< / > 4< / > 3< / > 9< / > -6< / > 5< / >< / > 克劳利镇< / > 7< / > 1< / > 5< / > 6< / > 13< / > -7< / > 4< / > |

阿克灵顿< / > 2< / > 切尔滕纳姆< / > 0< / >< / > 切斯特菲尔德< / > 4< / > 特兰米尔< / > 2< / >< / > 克鲁< / > 3< / > 布里斯托尔流浪者< / > 1< / >< / > 埃克塞特< / > 1< / > 罗瑟勒姆< / > 0< / >< / > 吉林厄姆< / > 0< / > 纽波特郡< / > 0< / >< / > 格里姆斯比< / > 1< / > 什鲁斯伯里< / > 2< / >< / > 罗奇代尔< / > 1< / > 斯温登< / > 0< / >< / > 索尔福德城< / > 1< / > 弗利特伍德镇< / > 0< / > |

英格兰女子超级联赛

曼联女队 1 利物浦女队

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其他赛果

足球

📄 外文原文 ↗

欧足联国家联赛—A3组:克罗地亚 0 英格兰 7,西班牙 负 捷克共和国 负。B1组:北马其顿 负 苏格兰 负,瑞士 负 斯洛文尼亚 负。C1组:白俄罗斯 4 圣马力诺 0,芬兰 2 阿尔巴尼亚 1。C4组:爱沙尼亚 1 卢森堡 0,冰岛 3 保加利亚 0。

英格兰足球联赛(EFL)奖杯赛南部赛区—D组:科尔切斯特 1 卢顿 1(卢顿点球 4-3 获胜)。

威廉希尔苏格兰联赛—冠军联赛:利文斯顿 1 艾尔 2,莫顿 1 雷斯 2,帕蒂克 3 阿布罗斯 0。第一联赛:艾尔德里安 1 蒙罗斯 0,东法伊夫 0 东基尔布赖德 3,汉密尔顿 负 彼得黑德 负,南皇后 4 科夫流浪者 3,罗斯郡 4 阿洛阿 1。第二联赛:安南竞技 0 斯特灵 1,邓巴顿 2 福法 1,埃尔金 6 克莱德 2,斯巴坦 0 凯尔蒂之心 2,斯特兰雷尔 0 爱丁堡城市 0。

企业国家联赛:奥尔德肖特 1 卡莱尔 3,巴罗 2 韦尔登斯通 1,博勒姆伍德 3 阿特林查姆 1,东莱利 1 沃金 3,盖茨黑德 1 沃辛 2,哈罗盖特镇 3 霍恩丘奇 0,哈特尔普尔 0 塔姆沃思 1,基德明斯特 1 萨顿联 1,索利赫尔穆尔斯 0 哈利法克斯 2,绍森德 3 AFC 费尔德 1,叶维尔 6 波士顿联 0。

北部联赛—超级联赛:班伯桥 2 昆恩 4,海德联 2 斯托克顿镇 1,兰开斯特城 2 伊尔克斯顿 1,雷德卡竞技 3 阿尔弗雷顿 1,沃灵顿赖兰斯 4 埃姆利 AFC 1,沃金顿 1 克利索普斯 1。

南部联赛超级联赛—中部赛区:莱明顿 4 希钦 0,莱顿 2 彼得伯勒体育 4,鲁沙尔奥林匹克 5 尼德姆马基特 3,斯图尔布里奇 0 沃里克竞技俱乐部 1,.

伊斯米安超级联赛:伯吉斯希尔 4 马尔登与蒂普特里 1,刘易斯 1 白鹰 0,拉姆斯盖特 2 卡沙尔顿竞技 3,韦灵 1 AFC 怀特利夫 0。

南部联赛超级联赛—南部赛区:普尔 3 伊夫舍姆联 1,耶特 3 弗罗姆 3。

阿联酋足总杯—第三轮资格赛:AFC 鲁什登与钻石 2 布雷恩特里 1,巴顿 1 乔利 4,贝德福德 2 温盖特与芬奇利 2,布拉克利 0 切尔姆斯福德 2,布伦特伍德 3 达格福德与雷德布里奇 1,伯里足球俱乐部 2 布罗姆斯格罗夫竞技 1,伯里 1 斯波尔丁联 1,巴克斯顿 0 南希尔兹 2,剑桥城 1 阿尔夫丘奇 2,切舍姆联 4 皇家贝德福德 3,克雷流浪者 3 奇彭纳姆 0,克罗伯勒竞技 1 温本 2,多金流浪者 1 查塔姆 0,埃布斯弗利特联 1 肖林 2,盖恩斯伯勒三位一体 2 安斯泰游牧者 3,吉斯利 1 布拉德福德 P A 0,汉韦尔 1 多佛 2,哈伯勒 3 圣奥尔班斯 2,凯特灵 1 伍斯特 3,莱瑟黑德 1 汉沃斯别墅 0,莱斯顿 3 考文垂联 1,麦克尔斯菲尔德 FC 2 斯卡伯勒竞技 2,马林 2 沃灵顿 0,莫克姆 3 达灵顿 0,牛津城 6 恩菲尔德 1,普利茅斯公园 2 霍舍姆 1,雷迪奇联 0 伯克汉姆斯特德 2,索尔兹伯里 FC 5 杜利奇汉姆 0,谢佩伊联 0 切特西 2,斯彭尼穆尔 4 切斯特 FC 1,斯塔福德游骑兵 1 赫尔索温 1,塔德利卡莱瓦 2 达特福德 1,泰姆联 0 东本区 1,顿布里奇天使 0 托基 1,特拉福德 2 阿瑟顿矿工 2,特鲁罗城 4 赛伦塞斯特 0,厄克斯布里奇 3 亨格福德 1,韦茅斯 1 SE Dons 5,Workspop 0 曼彻斯特联 FC 3,马尔巴顿流浪者 1 格洛斯特 2。

威尔士超级联赛:Airbus UK Broughton 3 Trefelin BGC 0,阿曼福德 2 霍利韦尔 1,布里顿费里 1 考尔温湾 0,卡纳芬 0 巴里联 1,康纳斯奎游牧者 1 佩尼本特 0,哈弗福德韦斯特郡 0 弗林特联 1,兰迪多 0 加的夫大都会大学 1,圣新圣 FC 9 坎布里安联 0。

高尔夫

📄 外文原文 ↗

DP世界巡回赛 阿尔弗雷德·邓希尔链路锦标赛(圣安德鲁斯、卡诺斯蒂和金斯巴恩斯) – 第3轮(除非另有说明,均为英国和爱尔兰选手,标准杆 72):198℃ Jarvis (南非) 66 67 65,200 A Meronk (波兰) 71 66 63,M Jordan 69 65 66,201 T Detry (比利时) 70 66 65,202 N Noergaard (丹麦) 70 65 67,J Skov Olesen (丹麦) 70 69 63,203 S Straka (奥地利) 68 71 64,204 O Schniederjans (美国) 69 66 69,M Fitzpatrick 68 70 66,R MacIntyre 71 65 68,C Syme 70 67 67,C Hill 68 71 65,J Luis Ballester (西班牙) 68 68 68,S Soederberg (瑞典) 70 67 67,J. C. Ritchie (南非) 72 65 67,R Repetto (西班牙) 70 64 70,205 M Lindberg (瑞典) 67 70 68,H Du Plessis (南非) 67 70 68,M. J. Daffue (南非) 66 68 71,M Stewart 65 71 69。

赛车

📄 外文原文 ↗

FIA 一级方程式巴林大奖赛(马来西亚,吉隆坡) – 排位赛:1 M 维斯塔潘 (荷) 红牛 1分 35.130秒,2 L 汉密尔顿 (英) 法拉利 35.428, 3 I 哈贾尔 (法) 红牛 35.558, 4 K 安东内利 (意) 梅赛德斯 GP 35.631, 5℃ 勒克莱尔 (摩) 法拉利 35.666, 6 L 诺里斯 (英) 迈凯伦 35.757, 7 O 皮亚斯特里 (澳) 迈凯伦 35.762, 8 G 拉塞尔 (英) 梅赛德斯 GP 35.871, 9 P 加斯利 (法) Alpine 37.210, 10 G 博托莱托 (巴) 奥迪 37.673, 11 L 劳森 (新) RB 37.023, 12 F 阿隆索 (西) 阿斯顿·马丁 37.220。

摩托车赛

📄 外文原文 ↗

MotoGP 日本大奖赛(日本,茂木) – 排位赛:MotoGP:1 J 马丁 (西) Aprilia 1分 42.371秒,2 M 马奎斯 (西) 杜卡迪 42.481, 3 P 阿科斯塔 (西) KTM 42.493, 4 M 贝兹特奇 (意) Aprilia 42.530, 5 A 马奎斯 (西) 杜卡迪 42.546, 6 F 迪·詹南托尼奥 (意) 杜卡迪 42.628, 7 E 巴斯蒂亚尼尼 (意) KTM 42.669, 8 R 费尔南德斯 (西) Aprilia 42.741, 9 D 莫雷拉 (巴) 本田 42.916, 10 J 扎尔科 (法) 本田 42.918. Moto2:1 I 盖瓦拉 (西) Boscoscuro 1分 46.851秒。Moto3:1 D 阿尔曼萨 (西) KTM 1分 54.572秒。

联盟式橄榄球 (RUGBY LEAGUE)

📄 外文原文 ↗

BETFRED 超级联赛总决赛:沃灵顿 负 韦克菲尔德 负。

联合式橄榄球 (RUGBY UNION)

📄 外文原文 ↗

吉尼斯英超联赛 – 布里斯托 41 诺森普顿 26,格洛斯特 48 哈莱昆斯 0,纽卡斯尔 负 莱斯特 负。

联合橄榄球锦标赛 – 德拉根斯 38 斯卡莱茨 26,格拉斯哥 33 贝尔法斯特 33,狮队 35 奥斯普雷斯 19,曼斯特 负 蓝牛队 负,鲨鱼队 26 伦斯特 20。

赛程

📄 外文原文 ↗

除非另有说明,开球时间为 7.45

今日

📄 外文原文 ↗

欧国联 A 组 - 第 2 组

希腊 对 德国 (7.45),荷兰 对 塞尔维亚 (7.45)。

A 组 - 第 4 组

葡萄牙 对 挪威 (7.45),威尔士 对 丹麦 (7.45)。

B 组 - 第 3 组

科索沃 对 奥地利 (5.00),爱尔兰共和国 对 以色列 (7.45)。

D 组 - 第 1 组

马耳他 对 安道尔 (5.00)。

D 组 - 第 2 组

阿塞拜疆 对 立陶宛 (2.00)。

女子超级联赛

阿斯顿维拉 对 水晶宫 (2.00),布莱顿与霍夫阿尔比恩 对查尔顿 (2.00),埃弗顿 对 伯明翰城 (2.00),曼城 对 阿森纳 (4.30),托特纳姆热刺 对 伦敦城市狮女队 (2.00),西汉姆 对 切尔西 (2.00)。

联盟式橄榄球 (RUGBY LEAGUE)

📄 外文原文 ↗

Betfred 锦标赛季后赛总决赛:伦敦青铜队 对 唐卡斯特 (3.00)

联合式橄榄球 (RUGBY UNION)

📄 外文原文 ↗

Gallagher 英超联赛:萨拉森 对 BBC 塞利 (3.00)

明日

📄 外文原文 ↗

欧国联 A 组 - 第 1 组

法国 对 比利时,意大利 对 土耳其。

B 组 - 第 2 组

北爱尔兰 对 格鲁吉亚,乌克兰 对 匈牙利。

B 组 - 第 4 组

波黑 对 波兰,罗马尼亚 对 瑞典。

C 组 - 第 2 组

塞浦路斯 对 拉脱维亚 (5.00),黑山 对 亚美尼亚。

10月6日 星期二

📄 外文原文 ↗

欧国联 A 组 - 第 3 组

克罗地亚 对 西班牙,英格兰 对 捷克共和国。

B 组 - 第 1 组

苏格兰 对 斯洛文尼亚,瑞士 对 北马其顿。

C 组 - 第 1 组

阿尔巴尼亚 对 圣马力诺,白俄罗斯 对 芬兰。

C 组 - 第 3 组

哈萨克斯坦 对 法罗群岛 (3.00),摩尔多瓦 对 斯洛伐克。

C 组 - 第 4 组

爱沙尼亚 对 冰岛,卢森堡 对 保加利亚。

10月7日 星期三

📄 外文原文 ↗

国际比赛

阿根廷 对 贝宁 (午夜 12点)。

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10月8日 星期四

高尔夫(至周日)

📄 外文原文 ↗

马德里呈献的 DP 世界巡回赛西班牙公开赛(西班牙,马德里,马德里维拉乡村俱乐部)

USPGA 巡回赛 Baycurrent 经典赛(日本,横滨,横滨乡村俱乐部)

10月9日 星期五

📄 外文原文 ↗

SKY BET 锦标赛

西汉姆 对 QPR (8.00)。

除非另有说明,开球时间为 3.00

Gallagher 英超联赛:莱斯特 对 格洛斯特 (7.45)

联合橄榄球锦标赛:德拉根斯 对 奥斯普雷斯 (7.45),

格拉斯哥 对 康诺特 (7.45)

---

10月10日 星期六

英超联赛

📄 外文原文 ↗

阿森纳 对 利兹 (12.30),阿斯顿维拉 对 布伦特福德,切尔西 对 AFC 伯恩茅斯,伊普斯维奇 对 富勒姆,曼联 对 托特纳姆热刺 (5.30),桑德兰 对 布莱顿。

SKY BET 英冠联赛

📄 外文原文 ↗

布莱克本 v 卡迪夫, 博尔顿 v 斯托克,查尔顿 v 布里斯托尔城 (12.30), 德比 v 雷克瑟姆, 米德尔斯堡 v 伍尔弗汉普顿, 普雷斯顿北端 v 米尔沃尔, 谢菲尔德联 v 林肯城, 斯旺西 v 诺维奇 (12.30), 沃特福德 v 伯恩利, 西布罗姆 v 伯明翰 (12.30)。SKY BET 英甲联赛

布拉德福德 v 莱顿东方, 剑桥联 v 布莱克浦, 唐卡斯特 v 伯顿阿尔比恩, 哈德斯菲尔德 v 谢菲尔德星期三, 莱斯特 v 彼得堡, 曼斯菲尔德 v 布罗姆利, 米尔顿凯恩斯唐斯 v 雷丁, 诺丁汉郡 v 牛津联 (12.30), 普利茅斯 v AFC温布尔登 (12.30), 史蒂夫尼奇 v 威根, 斯托克波特郡 v 巴恩斯利, 威科姆 v 卢顿。

SKY BET 英乙联赛

📄 外文原文 ↗

布里斯托尔流浪者 v 巴尼特, 切尔滕纳姆 v 索尔福德城, 克劳利镇 v 切斯特菲尔德, 弗利特伍德镇 v 沃尔索尔, 纽波特郡 v 考尔切斯特, 奥尔德姆 v 阿克灵顿斯坦利 (12.30), 普尔特韦尔 v 格里姆斯比, 罗瑟勒姆 v 吉林厄姆, 什鲁斯伯里 v 埃克塞特, 斯温登 v 克鲁 (12.30), 特兰米尔 v 罗奇代尔, 约克 v 诺森普顿。

WILLIAM HILL 苏超联赛

邓迪联 v 希伯尼安, 法尔基克 v 邓迪, 哈茨 v 圣米伦, 流浪者 v 基尔马诺克。

橄榄球联盟

📄 外文原文 ↗

国际赛:新西兰 v 澳大利亚 (8.10)

Gallagher 顶级联赛:诺森普顿 v 巴斯 (3.05), 萨拉森 v 布里斯托尔 (5.30)

联合橄榄球锦标赛:蓝色公牛 v 狮子 (12.30), 伦斯特 v 卡迪夫橄榄球 (7.45), 斯卡莱茨 v 贝内通特雷维索 (5.30), 风暴 v 鲨鱼 (3.00), 阿尔斯特 v 曼斯特 (5.30), 斑马 v 爱丁堡 (3.00)

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10月11日,星期日

英超联赛

📄 外文原文 ↗

水晶宫 v 诺丁汉森林 (2.00), 赫尔 v 埃弗顿 (2.00), 利物浦 v 曼城 (4.30)。

SKY BET 英冠联赛

南安普顿 v 朴茨茅斯 (12.00)。

WILLIAM HILL 苏超联赛

阿伯丁 v 圣约翰斯通 (2.00), 马瑟韦尔 v 凯尔特人 (12.00)。

橄榄球联盟

📄 外文原文 ↗

Gallagher 顶级联赛:埃克塞特 v 纽卡斯尔 (3.00), 塞利 v 哈利昆斯 (3.00)

粗麻布与黏液:曼城唯一合适的制裁方案

📄 外文原文 ↗

八次英超冠军需要迅速且严厉的惩罚——只有最具惩罚性的措施才足够

吉尔斯·史密斯 (Giles Smith)

降级!巨额罚款!

降级加上巨额罚款!

毁灭性的扣分加上

降级加上巨额罚款!

随着曼彻斯特城(曼城)在 2009 年至 2018 年间涉嫌对英超联赛实施的骗局规模逐渐显现,这些正是人们大声疾呼的制裁种类。你不得不说,这些建议非常强硬——考虑到所指控的欺骗程度以及涉及的情绪,这完全在预料之中。但这些建议缺乏想象力,不是吗?实际上相当无趣。

相比之下,本专栏为曼城量身定制的惩罚方案则是动态的、具有战略针对性的,并且经过深思熟虑的设计,旨在同时满足利益相关者以及那些只想看到正义得到伸张、但又希望正义能带点反转的中立者。

最棒的是,该方案现在就可以启动,或者在 25 年后启动,或者在即将到来的法律模糊化狂欢节在向结论方向缓慢且乏味地走完之后启动。

此外,与典型的建议不同,我们针对这家由阿布扎比支持的超级俱乐部的“手工打造”还击方式,审慎地避免了惩罚其现场观赛的球迷,他们无疑是整件事中最明显无辜的一方。

是的,即使是那些在 Oasis 乐队中的球迷。是的,即使是那些唱过诸如“我们富得令人难以置信”、“我们是不是太有钱了?”、“带着银行里的十亿资金降级”以及“我们会买下你的俱乐部”等伊蒂哈德球场经典歌曲的人。因为,尽管当时的合唱可能令人反感,但根据随后的进展,现在将其视为创意会计并开始对其进行处罚显然是不合理的。

哦,我们也不倾向于将此发泄在曼城的球员身上,无论是过去的还是现在的。毕竟,他们可能根本不知道俱乐部高层在搞什么,很少与经纪人讨论任何财务问题,只是拿钱踢球,对吧?

尽管如此,在球场上必须在某种程度上支付赎罪金:人类对结局的渴望似乎要求这样做。这就是为什么我们拟定的制裁包括一个赛季,球队必须穿着粗麻布球衣出场。

费罗拉斯

在哥哥

希律面前

跪在

粗麻布上。

我可以想象

同样的事情

发生在

伊蒂哈德。

Sepia Times

现在,这些球衣完全可以加入适合看台的休闲细节,因为正如我们所说,我们不想破坏球迷的乐趣,而穿着复刻版球衣正是这种乐趣的重要组成部分。但我们认为,如果至少在有限的时间内,让人们看到球员们以一种相当发痒的方式承担曼城涉嫌违规的负担,将是恰当的;马鬃毛国家队外套也是一个选项。

但自然地,董事会和所有者将承担我们提案的主要冲击。这些提案首先包括,让他们参加一次广泛的敞篷巴士巡游,随行携带在此期间获得的奖杯,并指示他们将奖杯交给那些原本应该赢得它们的俱乐部。

但 2018. 的社区盾杯除外。曼城击败切尔西赢得了那座奖杯,考虑到切尔西在这一时期的想象力丰富的账目处理实践,这场比赛现在可能应该被视为整个 era. 中唯一真正纯粹的足球竞赛。因此,曼城董事会可以保留那座奖杯,以及我们的祝贺。

但我们建议,在至少三个赛季中,伊蒂哈德球场董事会区域的比赛日餐饮应循环播放 Oasis 的《Stop Crying Your Heart Out》,音量要足以淹没对话,并且每场比赛天花板上的水箱都会随机倾倒黏液。我们还建议,作为一项缓刑制裁,提供一次赛前与利亚姆·加拉格尔 (Liam Gallagher) 社交互动的机会,因为始终需要有一个更高的威胁等级作为后手。

与此同时,董事会包厢的座位将被替换成带刺的长凳,且每场比赛将有一位幸运的季票持有者获得专属的五分钟时间,向包厢投掷经预先批准的物品,具体分级如下:第一季,腐烂的蔬菜;第二季,浸满油漆的豆袋;第三季,哈瑞宝(Haribo)产品。

只有在这些措施之后,我们或许才会开始考虑降级、毁灭性的扣分以及巨额罚款。

在你看来这足够了吗?对于英超联赛来说,这是一个具有划时代意义的时刻。我们需要正确处理此事。

欧洲最富有的马赛……以及向萨拉森队的葡萄酒专家致敬

📄 外文原文 ↗

巴林大奖赛在马来西亚举行(是的,真的),而国际足球赛似乎永无止境。作者:帕特里克·基德(Patrick Kidd)

上周最奇怪的故事之一是,许多人认为担任萨拉森队(Saracens)橄榄球总监的布伦丹·文特(Brendan Venter)有了新的职位名称。这位南非人将被称为他们的“橄榄球文化主管兼葡萄酒顾问”。据称,这将使他无需履行媒体义务。

文特表示,他不再在赛后接受新闻采访,而是会邀请记者参加品酒会,并在喝一两杯酒的过程中回答问题。在我看来,这简直是双赢。在莱斯特以 40-38 获胜开启赛季后,萨拉森队今天将对阵索尔福郡鲨鱼队(Sale Sharks)(TNT Sports 1, 3pm)。索尔福郡队的队长是恩斯特·范·莱恩(Ernst van Rhyn),不过文特只会认真地谈论白葡萄酒(vin blanc)。

是否存在国际足球疲劳的风险?英格兰队在温布利面对捷克共和国时,将在 11 天内进行第四场比赛(周二,ITV1, 7.45pm)。苏格兰队主场迎战斯洛文尼亚(BBC Two,同一时间),而威尔士队必须击败丹麦队才能摆脱欧足联国家联赛小组垫底的位置(今天,BBC Two, 7.45pm)。如果这还不够,11月中旬还将迎来另一批四场比赛。

与此同时,英国女队正寻求在明年的巴西世界杯中占据一席之地。萨里娜·维格曼(Sarina Wiegman)将埃拉·图恩(Ella Toone)和克洛伊·凯利(Chloe Kelly)这两位近期英格兰队的中坚力量从面对希腊队的两回合附加赛名单中剔除(周五,ITV1, 5.30pm)。威尔士队在阿尔巴尼亚,苏格兰队前往捷克共和国,北爱尔兰队主场迎战葡萄牙(周五,BBC iPlayer, 5, 6 和 7pm)。

与一些一级马赛相比,凯旋门大奖赛(Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe)几乎算是个新面孔——德比马赛(The Derby)最早于 1780年举行,而法国最著名的平地赛历史仅一百多年——但它拥有欧洲最高额的奖金,冠军可获得近 250 万英镑。去年的冠军 Daryz 是热门地,但自 1978 年以来,还没有哪匹公马能连续两次赢得凯旋门大奖赛(今天,ITV1, 1pm)。

詹尼克·辛纳(Jannik Sinner)赢得了今年网球赛季的前五场大师赛,但由于膝盖轻伤退出了上周在北京举行的中国公开赛,他似乎不太可能参加下一场在上海举行的赛事。他很快可能会将世界第一的排名输给亚历山大·兹维列夫(Alexander Zverev),因为在本赛季剩余的比赛中,兹维列夫需要卫冕的分数较少(周三开始,Sky Sports Tennis, 5am)。

辛纳的同胞基米·安东内利(Kimi Antonelli)已经五场大奖赛没有获得杆位了,但他仍以 66 分的领先优势占据一级方程式赛车车手锦标赛的首位。这场盛会本周末将移师巴林。实际上,由于中东战争,他们现在在马来西亚,但品牌就是一切,所以奖杯上依然写着巴林的名字。安东内利能赢吗?(今天,Sky Sports F1, 8am)。

观察者报

04 / 10 / 26

调频,登录

肖恩·奥哈根(Seán O'Hagan):从 Deadheads 到技术宅

秘密与谎言:威廉·博伊德(William Boyd)论美国中央情报局(CIA)最初的文化战争

反叛歌手基利安·福克斯(Killian Fox)对话 Lankum 乐队的拉迪·皮特(Radie Peat)

议程

📄 外文原文 ↗

每周日最犀利的艺术、科学、书籍与思想评论

议程 2-7

📄 外文原文 ↗

\- 现实生活:埃文·莫菲特(Evan Moffitt)访问艾米·怀恩豪斯(Amy Winehouse)的图书馆;斯蒂芬·阿姆斯特朗(Stephen Armstrong)寻找一位传统木工;埃拉·卡茨(Ella Katz)支持一家社交俱乐部;而朱德·罗杰斯(Jude Rogers)在“另类世界小姐”选美大赛中大放异彩

  • 网格:一个新展览深入探讨游泳池的艺术
  • 访谈:大卫·拜恩(David Byrne)谈人类的创造力及其最新巡演的拍摄

评论家 20-29

📄 外文原文 ↗

\- 卡迪什·莫里斯(Kadish Morris)对话先驱摄影师洛娜·辛普森(Lorna Simpson)

  • 苏珊娜·克拉普(Susannah Clapp)见证西蒙·罗素·比尔(Simon Russell Beale)在饰演利伯拉塞(Liberace)时大放异彩
  • 劳拉·卡明(Laura Cumming)在皇家艺术学院欣赏里维埃拉
  • 温迪·艾德(Wendy Ide)对汤姆·克鲁斯主演的电影《挖掘机》(Digger)感到失望

特色页 8-19

📄 外文原文 ↗
  • 封面故事:亚历克斯·弗格森的《我生命中的比赛》通过 21 场比赛回顾其职业生涯。他与保罗·海沃德探讨了生活、爱与足球
  • 访谈:基利安·福克斯采访了雷迪·皮特,她与 Lankum 乐队及其新的个人专辑正引领着一场爱尔兰民谣复兴
  • 随笔:肖恩·奥哈根论述感恩而死乐队及其技术先驱粉丝如何预见了我们的数字时代
  • 约翰·诺顿论 Meta 的 Muse

书评 30-37

📄 外文原文 ↗
  • 威廉·博伊德重读弗朗西斯·斯托诺·桑德斯的《谁为笛手付钱?》,这是一部揭露美国中央情报局干预行为的著作
  • 瑞秋·西尔维斯特评论戈登·布朗的《未来始于我们》
  • 萨拉·莫斯评路易丝·肯尼迪(《侵犯》作者)的《车站》
  • 基蒂·帝国评论适合惊悚季节的儿童书籍

益智游戏与电视 38-48

📄 外文原文 ↗
  • 普通人填字游戏、数独、Gemelo、国际象棋、猜图、电影连连看、Lexipedia 问答以及金发姑娘填字游戏
  • 本周电视与广播亮点
  • 芭芭拉·艾伦论《名人叛徒》的回归

关注我们的 Instagram @ObsNewReview;发送电子邮件至 review@observer.co.uk

撰稿人

📄 外文原文 ↗

保罗·海沃德(p8)是《观察者报》的获奖体育作家。他曾与亚历克斯·弗格森、鲍比·罗布森和凯文·辛菲尔德合著书籍。

卡迪什·莫里斯 (p20) 是一位评论家、编辑、诗人,也是《观察者报》的常驻撰稿人。她在 2020 年获得了埃里克·格雷戈里诗歌奖。

萨拉·莫斯 (p34) 居住在都柏林,在那里教授创意写作。她近期的著作包括回忆录《我的善良明亮之狼》和小说《成熟》。

基利安·福克斯 (p12) 是一位获奖记者和编辑,为《观察者报》撰写关于艺术、美食、音乐、摄影和图像小说等主题的文章。

威廉·博伊德(p30)是一位小说家和编剧。其以冷战为背景的加布里埃尔·达克斯间谍三部曲的第三卷《寒冷日落》于上月出版。

大局观

📄 外文原文 ↗

李·马丁在 20 世纪 90 年代初诺丁山狂欢节那令人窒息的拥挤人群中发现了一片绿洲

李·马丁(Lee Martin)不确定具体是哪一年,但从太阳镜、宽松的伊卡特(ikat)长裤、贝壳珠项链和扣紧的衬衫就可以看出,我们正处于 90 年代初的锐舞(rave)领域。构图和配色方案与那个 era 相契合,褪色的粉色和蓝色建筑外墙增添了整体的迷幻氛围。甚至连

一楼阳台上那个男人的舞姿,似乎也将我们置于英国文化史上一个非常特定的时刻。

这张照片出现在马丁的新书《派对与抗议:伦敦 1990 年代》(Party & Protest London 1990s)中。书中将抗议活动的图像——针对刑事司法法案、玛格丽特·撒切尔的人头税以及其他令人愤慨之事的抗议——与集体狂欢的场景交织在一起。对于马丁来说,这些场景似乎总是在他带着相机散步时偶然撞见的。当时他二十多岁,刚拿到摄影研究生文凭(他现在在《观察者报》担任图片编辑)。他回忆道:“无论我去哪里,总要么是抗议,要么是节日,要么是锐舞派对。”

这一次是诺丁山狂欢节,马丁估计是在 1993 或 1994 年。

在描述典型的狂欢节体验时,他说:“你进入这种肉体挤压的疯狂之中,会感到有一点幽闭恐惧。有时你会[陷入]一条死胡同,突然间出现一套音响系统,人们开始尽情狂欢。这就是这里发生的情况。我当时几乎打算结束这一天了,因为我感到太烦躁,被挤得太厉害,然后我发现自己处于这个幸福的小绿洲中,人们有空间跳舞——或者他们通过爬上墙壁和阳台来创造空间。”

他回忆起一些狂欢者敦促他上去加入他们,但马丁拒绝了。

“阳台上跳舞的那个人一分钟也没有停下来。我想除了他脑子里在想的事情,他对其他一切都毫无察觉。就像我的伴侣前几天对我说的:‘每个人都认识这样一个家伙。’”基利安·福克斯(Killian Fox)

李·马丁的《派对与抗议:伦敦 1990 年代》由 Café Royal Books 出版

艺术世界 艾米的图书馆

📄 外文原文 ↗

伦敦北部的卡姆登街道是艾米·怀恩豪斯(Amy Winehouse)的圣地。这位已故歌手被绘制在数层楼高的砖墙上,俯瞰着运河的水面。不过,如果你想近距离接触现实世界中的“瓦莱丽”(Valerie),在首都中心的切尔西堤岸(Chelsea Embankment)的一套公寓里会有更好的运气,那里在尼科莱塔·菲奥鲁奇基金会(Nicoletta Fiorucci Foundation)展出了这位表演者曾拥有的 400 多本书籍。或者说,接近如此;这个由艺术家亚历克斯·马戈·阿登(Alex Margo Arden)组建的图书馆,包含的书籍在年代、版本和品相上与怀恩豪斯拥有的完全一致,尽管其中没有任何一本真正地被她拥有过。阿登称它们为“平行对象”。

在最近的一个下午,阿登,32, 在兼作画廊的公寓楼梯平台上以灿烂的笑容迎接我。从脖子以上看,她像是一个略显模糊的黑色电影魅力化身:樱桃红的嘴唇,深色的猫眼眼线,以及画上去的美人痣。从脖子以下看,她像一个糖霜纸杯蛋糕:褶边粉色衣领和粉色挂脖上衣,粉色服务员围裙,粉色鱼网袜和粉色阿迪达斯运动鞋。

阿登在 2021 年比弗利山庄拍卖怀恩豪斯个人物品的在线目录中发现了许多书籍,不过有些照片像素太低,需要进行“法医式”分析才能推断出书脊上的书名。其他的书籍则是她在怀恩豪斯伦敦家中拍摄的旅游照片和时尚社论的背景中发现的。

大多数书籍是已经绝版的平装书,带有光亮的、糖果色亮眼的封面。它们的转售价值很低,因此阿登在网上很难追踪到它们。这些书有主题:关于好莱坞的书籍(玛丽莲·梦露、奥黛丽·赫本、迪恩·马丁、阿尔弗雷德·希区柯克的传记);关于音乐的书籍(弗兰克·辛纳屈、鲍勃·马利、佩吉·李);关于黑帮的书籍(罗尼·克雷);以及一些文学选择:米哈伊尔·布尔加科夫的《大师与玛格丽特》、汤姆·沃尔夫的《虚荣之火》以及让·里斯的《宽阔的萨加索海》。我们永远无法得知希拉里·曼特尔的《超越黑色》(Beyond Black)是否启发了怀恩豪斯那张多白金唱片专辑《回到黑色》(Back to Black)的标题。我也在想,她的音乐是否受到了她显然很喜爱的弗拉基米尔·纳博科夫或数独的影响。

阿登对怀恩豪斯的唱片目录烂熟于心。在阿登于伦敦南部克罗伊登成长期间,这位歌手是一个传奇人物,她的青春期被专辑《Frank》(2003)和死后发行的《Lioness: Hidden Treasures》(2011)所定义。“我不信任任何不是艾米·怀恩豪斯粉丝的人,”她说。她最喜欢的歌曲“绝对是《Love Is a Losing Game》”。

我问阿登她的猫眼妆是否学自怀恩豪斯。“我不认为我画得像她,你觉得呢?”她回答道,尽管她们使用的是同一款眼线笔。那支笔就放在玻璃展柜里,旁边还有洁净的腮红垫和粉饼,其中一些早已停产。就像那些书一样,阿登将这些化妆品与她在怀恩豪斯照片中发现的化妆品进行了匹配。

阿登说,因为她的“音乐和形象被无休止地货币化。所以展览中刻意没有出现她的脸,也没有她的音乐”。也许如此,但我们都能感觉到空气中弥漫着艾米的气息。画廊各处的扩香器散发出一种阿登认为怀恩豪斯最可能使用的香氛。闻起来有花香,并带着一丝香草味。

阿登将这次展览命名为《并非私事》(Nothing Personal)。但矛盾的是,所有这些模仿品似乎比原件更能让你接近这位明星。挂在画廊壁炉上方的睫毛夹或索菲·达尔(Sophie Dahl)的杂志封面并没有什么神秘之处,怀恩豪斯显然也将它们挂在自己的壁炉上方,旁边还挂着家人的肖像。这位明星也曾是一个追星族。

铅灰色的光线从泰晤士河方向洒入。天空刚刚开始吟唱十月的歌曲。阿登指了一堆怀恩豪斯拥有的拼图。“她真的很注重正念——她参加过一个康复计划,”她说。

[...OMITTED...]

我们看向一张印着一对老年夫妇的卡片,这是马克·朗森(Mark Ronson)和阿黛尔(Adele)带去参加 Winehouse 25岁生日派对的。那位歌手当时并未出现,后来告诉媒体她因为病情复发而觉得自己“太丑了”。阿登找到了这对夫妇原始的底片,从零开始制作了这张卡片并伪造了签名。“她从未收到过这张卡片,”阿登说,“这本意是为了幽默,但随着时间流逝,感觉就像是:马克·朗森和阿黛尔还活着。他们能够慢慢变老。” 埃文·莫菲特(Evan Moffitt)

插画

奥斯卡·英厄姆(Oscar Ingham)

职场生活

我来了,我看到了

“很多时候,有人会打电话来说‘我想找杰克(Jack)通话’,”在格洛索普(Glossop)经营传统木工坊 Jack Badger 的董事总经理兼“首席洗瓶员”本·内勒(Ben Naylor)笑着说,“我们不得不向他们解释,jack badger 是一种带有倾斜刀片的中世纪刨刀。”

这并不是该公司使用的唯一一种中世纪木工工具:还有用于在木材上雕刻形状的刮刀(scratch stocks);手摇式钻孔机(brace and bit drills);劈柴刀(froe),一种 L 形手工具,可以用木槌敲击以沿木纹劈开木材;以及平凿(adze),一种刀刃与手柄垂直且呈弧形的斧状工具;更不用说木栓、楔子和自紧式抽孔栓(drawbore peg)了。

安装在教堂或乡村别墅中的 Jack Badger 门,在外观和触感上应与它所取代的古老原件完全一致,因为它们大致是以相同的方式并使用相同的工具制造的。因此,你可能会认为这是一家小众公司。事实上,本报记者在初次接触到它时,还以为这更像是一种爱好而非一项经营业务。我想,大概就是两个男人在格洛索普的一个棚屋里干活。挺可爱的。

但该公司目前正与被《洛杉矶》杂志称为“洛杉矶最具影响力的室内设计师”的安伯·刘易斯(Amber Lewis)合作,以及来自蒙大拿州、马略卡岛和丹麦的富裕客户。“在丹麦,有个家伙想要一个像《指环王》那样的房间,”内勒说,“他们想要一个中间长着棵树的图书馆。这其实不是我们的主业,但我能理解他们为什么找我们。”

他们还在科茨沃尔德(Cotswolds)各地为美国亿万富翁、设计师马克·纽森(Marc Newson)和乔尼·艾夫(Jony Ive)——后者以在苹果公司的工作而闻名——以及一些因保密协议(NDA)而无法透露姓名的名人翻修房屋。虽然内勒和联合创始人罗布·爱德华兹(Rob Edwards)确实是在 2010 年从他父亲的棚屋开始创业的,但他们现在在德比郡老格洛索普的一家前酿酒厂雇佣了 30 人。这家酿酒厂是他们在大约六个月前买下的,原有的酒吧依然完好。

内勒今年 42 岁,穿着牛仔裤和套衫,为人随和。他在 14 岁时就知道自己想成为一名木工。在学校假期期间,他在当地的一家公司 John Hetherington 工作,在那里他爱上了“慢生长木材和专业锯切技术”。他的父母住在德比郡高峰区(High Peak)老格洛索普的一个农舍里,距离曼彻斯特约 15 英里,他的父亲曾尝试从事古建筑石工活。

随着 Jack Badger 的成立,老格洛索普已经形成了一个传统技能集群:三家木工公司、古建筑石匠、旧椅子座面和靠背的编藤专家,以及传统石板屋顶工。如果你想建一座中世纪或近代早期的风格房屋,这个古镇几乎能为你提供所有服务。而且它的吸引力正在扩大。

“最近我开着面包车在哈弗福德韦斯特(Haverfordwest),”内勒说,“有个家伙拦住我,说如果我就是 Jack Badger,他愿意做任何事来为我们工作,哪怕只是扫地。”他困惑地摇了摇头。

自20世纪纺织厂和工厂关闭以来,格洛索普(Glossop)一直陷入困境。第二次世界大战后建造的大多数房屋都是为在曼彻斯特工作的人准备的。而现在,有人专门前往那里,只为了在传统工艺公司工作。“想要成为木工的人数发生了巨大的变化,”内勒(Naylor)解释道,“在我刚开始的时候,大家追求的都是大学学位。我们现在正尝试扩大规模,收到了很多学徒和木工的申请,他们是通过看到我们的作品而找到我们的。”

让他生气的一种方法就是提到宜家(Ikea)。“在一个资源消耗速度快得惊人的世界里,这是一个问题。我指的不只是石油,还包括木材,”他说,“我看到一些制造出来的东西。用那些木材本可以做出很棒的作品,而你却只做出了一件垃圾。做一些有益的东西,而不仅仅是未来的垃圾填埋物。”

他对于高质量的平板包装家具有一个想法,但首先需要大幅扩大公司规模。“我们的商业模式与大多数公司截然不同,”内勒解释道,“我对人们说:‘我不希望你们再次回来找我,除非你们搬家。如果你在50年后才回来,那么我们就搞砸了。’我们更换的一些门已经使用了800年。这才是我们应该做的。” 斯蒂芬·阿姆斯特朗(Stephen Armstrong)

社区生活 为分享而生

📄 外文原文 ↗

当我到达会议现场时,已经没有空位了。人们正用从门口桌子上拿的小册子给自己扇风。SET Social 是佩卡姆(Peckham)备受喜爱的社区艺术空间和社会俱乐部,以其多元化的活动安排和廉价饮品而闻名,如今正面临被房地产开发商 Cherwell Group 暂时关闭的危机。100 多名南伦敦人聚集在这里,旨在拯救它。空气中弥漫着革命的气息,后方的桌子上摆着佛卡夏面包(请随意取用)。

32 岁的科纳尔·莫纳汉(Conall Monaghan)共同管理该中心的社区花园,并正领导着名为“拯救我们的 SET”(Save Our )的基层运动。今晚他穿着一件方正的黑色衬衫,额头上渗着一层薄汗。“很高兴看到这么多对 FOURTH 充满热情的人来到这里……”他用基尔代尔(Kildare)口音开始说道,但没能说完,因为有人爆发出了热烈的掌声。房间里响起一阵轻笑,莫纳汉重新开始讲述。

这个酒吧 / 画廊 / 社区空间位于一个教堂大厅内,其公告栏上贴满了女同性恋电影放映会和麻将俱乐部的海报。这种多元性正是 Social 的魅力所在。你可能会发现自己正处于一个马克思阅读小组之中,也可能是在进行一场 Hinge 约会(根据个人经验,这两者的谈话要点可能惊人地相似)。

艺术学院般的活力驱动着这个地方,但其基础更为稳固。(与“拯救我们的 ”无隶属关系)是一家拥有十年历史的慈善机构,致力于在伦敦寻找空置建筑——通常是等待重新开发的建筑,被称为“临时空间”(meanwhile spaces)——并将其转化为艺术家工作室和社区空间。 Social 就是其中之一。几家慈善机构也使用这个空间(费用降低或免除),包括与残障成年人合作的 KeyRing 生活支持网络(KeyRing Living Support Network)以及痴呆症艺术协会(Arts for Dementia)。如果你在午夜后想喝一杯,且比起站在黏糊糊的俱乐部地板上更倾向于陷进深色的皮革沙发里,这里也是南伦敦少数几个可以前往的地方。

Cherwell Group 的提案将在建筑期间驱逐所有使用 Social 的团体,并最终将他们安置在四层“专用共享居住”公寓底层的“全新升级社区空间”(一个时尚但看起来很凄凉的共享办公大厅)中。

在一次小组头脑风暴练习和短暂的佛卡夏休息后,工党议员贾斯敏·阿里(Jasmine Ali)从座位上站了起来。“这是一次很棒的会议,气氛非常热烈……”我注意到两名女性在听到她那像老师一样的语气时交换了眼神。但贾斯敏建议,萨瑟克(Southwark)的人民需要住房。大家庭正住在单卧室公寓里。“我们需要尊重我们生活的区域。”

房间里爆发出一阵失望的喧闹。后方一个声音盖过了众人,所有人纷纷转身寻找他。“一个单间 HMO(多人共用住宅)房间每月就要数千[英镑],”他说,“那些家庭中没有一个会被安置在 Cherwell 提议的开发项目中。”众人鼓掌,阿里坐回原位。

现在是周四晚上快 9 点,穿着浅蓝色衬衫的上班族腋下已经出现了深蓝色圆圈。一名女性一只手抓起头发,另一只手在后颈扇风。人们虽然疲惫,但被战斗精神所激励——他们决心让自己的临时空间生存下去。埃拉·卡茨(Ella Katz)

舞台之上:失礼小姐 (Miss Demeanour)

📄 外文原文 ↗

在一个阴雨绵绵的周日晚上,在摄政公园露天剧场(Regent's Park Open Air Theatre),一只银色的鳄鱼正在一个铺满亮片和鲜花的舞台上大肆破坏。五名全身涂满人体彩绘的裸女也在如此破坏,她们正剪断自己的羊毛脐带;还有一名从头到脚覆盖着白色羽毛、浑身涂满人造原油的参赛者。

“另类世界小姐”(Alternative Miss World)选美大赛是由艺术家兼雕塑家安德鲁·洛根(Andrew Logan)于 1972 年创立的一项赛事。参赛者在三个类别(日装、晚装和泳装)中进行表演,评判标准灵感来自洛根年轻时参观克鲁夫茨狗展(Crufts)的经历(风度、个性与原创性)。

“我们向所有人开放,不限年龄,不限性别,”洛根在活动前几天告诉我,他正准备与演员伊芙·费雷特(Eve Ferret)共同主持,同时在为全部 16 名参赛者准备奖品袋。“我的意思是,有一年是一个机器人赢了,叫‘罗莎·波森小姐’( Rosa Bosom),由艺术家布鲁斯·莱西(Bruce Lacey)操作。”今年的评委包括高级制帽师皮尔斯·阿特金森(Piers Atkinson)、演员海莉·米尔斯(Hayley Mills)和贾维斯·考克(Jarvis Cocker)。

洛根会如何向一个新人描述这次活动?

新浪漫主义者。另类世界小姐从一开始就有辉煌的校友:德里克·贾曼(Derek Jarman)在 1975 年以“绉纱苏泽特小姐”( Crepe Suzette)的身份参赛并获胜,大卫·霍克尼(David Hockney)曾两次担任评委(“他非常、非常支持”),而迪凡(Divine)则在 1978 年于克拉珀姆公共绿地(Clapham Common)的一个巨型帐篷中主持了活动。

导演理查德·盖耶(Richard Gayer)拍摄了那一晚的电影,由创始人埃里克·莫利(Eric Morley)领导的世界小姐组织试图阻止该片放映,但未能成功。洛根当时的出庭律师是一位年轻的托尼·布莱尔(Tony Blair)。“他的牙齿很漂亮,”洛根回忆道。

今年的主题是“盖亚”(Gaia),除了反映洛根在雕塑和珠宝中一直赞美的自然形态之爱外,也是为了向去年去世的电影导演盖耶致敬。这一点在观众入场时分发的仿种子袋上有所标注。袋子里有一颗待种植的豆子:“果实坚实、美味,非常适合比赛。多产、高产、甜美,偶尔温柔。在户外生长并展示。”

人群早早地涌入观看演出前的娱乐活动,许多人穿着夸张的服装。在酒吧旁,诺里奇基特巫师(Norwich Kitwitches)复兴了东英格兰的莫莉舞(Molly dancing)民间艺术,他们戴着霓虹色假发,穿着泡沫胸罩,伴随着手风琴跳跃的呻吟声表演(“我们是在纪念以前的犁工在冬天为了赚钱做的事,”其中一名全身涂绿的女性芭芭拉说道)。

在舞台上,洛根穿着一套蔚蓝色、金色和青铜色的服装登场,像一张被解构的世界地图。正如 1972 年以来一直那样,他的服装右侧近似传统的男性装束,左侧则近似女性装束,灵感来自他青少年时期在杂货出售会上发现的一套音乐厅服装。

“谢谢你,大地母亲!”他向着雨中举起双手说道。他微微皱眉,然后恢复了他那近乎永久的微笑。“她滴水了!”

接着是参赛者,单是她们的名字—— girth 母亲(Mother Girth)、凡尘小姐( Mortal Coil)、盖亚女士小姐( Lady GaGaia)——就值得获奖。盖伊 AI 小姐( Guy AI)装扮成一丛灌木唱民歌。人类世小姐( Anthropocene)由三个人组成,像螃蟹一样行走,并连接着充气娃娃。诊断小姐( Diagnosis)向观众席投掷 Tunnock's 茶点蛋糕。

这个人拦住我,说如果我是杰克·巴杰(Jack Badger),他愿意为我们做任何事,哪怕是扫地

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“我一直把它称作一场面向全家娱乐的超现实艺术盛会,”他说,并补充道,这也是一次对 DIY 创造力的庆祝。“这关乎我们能用双手创造的奇迹,在 AI 时代,这意味着更多。”

几十年来,洛根(Logan)一直是另类艺术界最热情且人脉最广的人物之一。性手枪乐队(Sex Pistols)在 1976 年情人节期间,在他位于伦敦巴特勒码头(Butler's Wharf)的工作室举行了首场演出,那里随后成为了一个反主流文化中心,助力了朋克的发展并导致了

我最喜欢的时刻是当 Fiontasia —— 即 Fiontán Bleau Moran —— 穿着他的“睡衣”旋转着登上舞台时,那件宽大的服装让他看起来像一个神话中的苦行僧、一名前卫的芭蕾舞者,以及一只非凡的蝴蝶。当他获胜时,洛根给了他一顶镶宝石的皇冠、一柄权杖和一枚戒指,并给其他人分发礼物。

随后,身着水仙黄盛装的歌手大卫·麦考蒙特(David McAlmont)带领所有人演唱《他将整个世界握在手中》(He's Got The Whole World In His Hands)。洛根挥舞着双臂。被淋湿的观众们面带灿烂笑容,随之合唱。裘德·罗杰斯(Jude Rogers)

艺术

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“表面闪烁着油腻的油彩光泽。雏菊以厚厚的白色圆盘状傲然挺立。据说在画面中间某个地方,一顶超大帽檐遮住了一张神秘的面孔。”《理查德·达德:超越疯人院》(Richard Dadd: Beyond Bedlam)在伦敦皇家艺术学院展出,直到 10 月 25 日。劳拉·卡明(Laura Cumming)

古典音乐

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巴托克的《青胡子的城堡》和斯特拉文斯基的《俄狄浦斯王》这两部作品被结合在威尔士国家歌剧院的一场制作中,该剧将巡演至兰迪诺(Llandudno)、南安普顿、牛津和普利茅斯,直到 11 月 28 日。这是一次“生存与勇气的展示”。菲奥娜·马多克斯(Fiona Maddocks)

电影

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“在罗弘辰(Na Hong-jin)这部马拉松式的韩国怪物电影中,有些时刻的大胆程度和执行之精妙,足以媲美你今年在电影院看到的任何作品。”《希望》(Hope)目前仍在全国电影院上映。温迪·艾德(Wendy Ide)

---

现正预订

音乐

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切里欣顿大厅(Cherry Hinton Hall)剑桥民谣节的门票现已发售。这场为期三天的节日将于 7 月 30 日至 8 月 1 日举行,演出阵容仍待公布。

舞蹈

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文艺复兴时期的悲剧、电影《贱女孩》(Mean Girls)以及 80 年代砍杀电影在卡洛斯·庞斯·格拉(Carlos Pons Guerra)的作品中相遇。

《爱德华二世》(Edward II)是由 DeNada 舞蹈剧场改编自克里斯托弗·马洛(Christopher Marlowe)的剧作。该剧将于 10 月 30 日在利兹的斯坦利与奥德里·伯顿剧院(Stanley & Audrey Burton Theatre)首演,随后开启巡演。

文学

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曼彻斯特文学节部分活动的门票仍可购买,该活动将于 10 月 9 日至 25 日在全市各场地举行。亮点包括《观察者报》读书会与埃尔南·迪亚斯(Hernan Diaz)、德博拉·弗朗西斯-怀特(Deborah Frances-White)、李明金(Min Jin Lee)和扬·马特尔(Yann Martel)的对话。

网格

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瑞士一个小镇举办的一场展览,探讨了游泳池取代湖泊后的现状,将我们与水的关系置于框架之中。

在法语中,这个名字的意思是“湖”,而瑞士的勒洛克勒(Le Locle)小镇正是由其与水的关系所塑造的。随着城市扩张,这座与小镇同名的湖泊消失了;勒洛克勒美术馆(MBAL)的前馆长费德里卡·基奥凯蒂(Federica Chiocchetti)解释说,这导致了通过建设大型公共游泳池来进行补偿。

她在 MBAL 的最后一个项目——《一次坚实的湿润:想象中的游泳池》(For One Solid Time, Wet: The Swimming Pool in the Imagination),是对勒洛克勒游泳池的一次多媒体致敬。通过绘画、雕塑、摄影和装置艺术,该展览还探讨了生态的脆弱性,并反驳了关于 MBAL 场馆将被室内泳池取代的传闻。“我想将这种威胁——以及与之相关的关于权力、渴望和现代性的想法——转化为积极的东西,”基奥凯蒂说道。

该展览由她与作家卢·斯托帕德(Lou Stoppard)共同策划,将游泳池视为当代艺术中一个迷人的重复主题,涵盖了像霍克尼(Hockney)和苏丹(Sultan)这样知名的人物,以及像纳兹戈尔·安萨里尼亚(Nazgol Ansarinia)和玛丽·斯蒂芬森(Mary Stephenson)这样较新的艺术家。“展览中有很多作品在赞美游泳池的美感,以及它与休闲和快乐的联系,”斯托帕德说,“[同时] 也有作品探讨与不平等、水危机、城市化以及人类主宰自然的欲望相关的主题。”

因此,这些作品带领我们从怀旧的过去走向更阴郁的未来。“[有一个] 房间要求参观者思考,在环境危机这些不确定的时代,游泳池的未来会是如何,”斯托帕德说,“游泳池仍然是幸福和梦想的象征,还是某种更黑暗的东西?”塔拉·乔希(Tara Joshi)报道

《一次坚实的湿润:想象中的游泳池》在瑞士 MBAL 展出,直到 2027 年 2 月 21 日

大卫·拜恩(David Byrne):歌手兼作家,74岁

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“即使是互联网上的东西也经常被忽视”:大卫·拜恩

图片来源:Getty Images / Contour RA

这位前 Talking Heads 乐队主唱谈论被遗忘的人类智慧实例、进化生物学以及拍摄他的巡演纪录片。

大卫·拜恩是一位博学者,他的职业生涯始于 Talking Heads 乐队。自该乐队 1991 年分道扬镳以来,出生于苏格兰并在加拿大和美国长大的拜恩发行了 12 张个人专辑(有时与布莱恩·伊诺和 St Vincent 等艺术家合作),以及包括《末代皇帝》(1987)在内的电影配乐。他同时是一位视觉艺术家、Luaka Bop 厂牌的联合创始人,以及包括 2012 年出版的《音乐如何运作》(How Music Works)在内的多本书籍的作者。2020 年,斯派克·李执导了一部关于拜恩“美国乌托邦”(American Utopia)个人巡演的电影。拜恩的新书名为《睡美人:好主意为何会休眠以及它们如何苏醒》(Sleeping Beauties: Why Good Ideas Go Dormant and How They Wake Up)。他现居纽约。

“睡美人”这个词描述的是被重新唤醒的休眠科学知识。是什么促使你写这本书,探讨创意和艺术作品的生命周期?我偶然发现了一篇科学论文 [《科学中的睡美人》,安东尼·范·拉恩,莱顿大学 2004],我立刻想到,哦,这是一个多么吸引人的短语,多么令人难忘的表达这种现象的方式。我想,这不仅适用于科学论文,它适用于,嗯,一切事物。我们生活中都有这样的例子:我们热爱的一些东西曾不被赏识,然后也许被重新发现。它从此拥有了自己的生命,每当我偶然发现一个故事,我就会想,好吧,这值得进一步研究。

书中最不为人知的“美人”之一是印度南部拥有千年历史的水资源管理系统,该系统由“湖泊守护者”阿南德·马利加瓦德(Anand Malligavad)等人修复。班加罗尔的人们可能很清楚,乔拉(Chola)水资源管理系统曾经存在,覆盖了该大陆的整个南端。他们现在面临水资源问题,正是因为在几百年前放弃了该系统。这让我思考,也许其中许多故事实际上是以西方为导向的。它们关于西欧没有获得某些东西;关于西方还没准备好接受某些东西,或者不知道阿拉伯人、中亚人、中国人所知道的东西。在不把西欧永远设定为过错方的前提下,这确实表明,知识有时比我们倾向于认为的更具局部性。我们倾向于认为一旦某件事被认知,它就会在到处被认知。但事实并非如此,即使在互联网时代也是如此。

另一个被隐藏的人物是进化生物学家琳·马古利斯(Lynn Margulis)。她太了不起了。天哪,她面对了多么艰苦的战斗。她提出,所有动物和植物的细胞是通过共生结合的过程形成目前的形态,线粒体曾是独立的生存细菌。在某个时间点,它们被包围并捕获。而那个进行捕获的实体,随后为后来成为我们线粒体的东西提供了一种保护。作为回报,线粒体成为了处理细胞所需能量生产元素的引擎。植物的情况也是如此。这个观点曾遭到抵制,但最终得到了证明,这让她感到极大的宽慰。

我们可以将《睡美人》总结为“超越时代”的创意。但你指出,这个短语预设了一种从无知的过去到现在的线性进步,认为现在我们无所不知,且情况更好。

当人们阅读书中的故事时,事情被遗忘就变得显而易见了。知识一旦获得,并不总是永恒的。有时它会再次消失。即使是互联网上的东西也经常

被忽视。所以,是的,进步……可能是一种踉跄前行,然后是一种退却。接着又是另一次向侧面的踉跄。

是否有您想要发掘并使其受到关注的艺术或音乐领域的“沉睡美人”?我有许多个人心头好,但就大众认可度而言,非洲流行音乐是一个方向。目前的非洲艺术家们——无论是南非的、尼日利亚的还是其他国家的——正全面进入流行音乐的主流领域。这在很多年前是不可想象的。

您近期的巡演基于对一支始终在移动的乐队进行编舞。这个想法是从哪里来的?当我开始与 Talking Heads 乐队一起表演时,我不知道该如何移动。我不想采用摇滚乐队中已经盛行的既定动作模式,因为我认为,嗯,那些已经被做过了。在一次巡演之后,大概是在 80 年代初,我留在日本,去看了日本传统戏剧:歌舞伎(kabuki)、文乐(bunraku)和能剧(noh)。一旦你踏上舞台,你就不能假装一切都是自然的。如果你试图追求自然主义,那本身就是一种面具——就像歌舞伎或能剧的面具一样。当然,我(在舞台上)并不戴面具。但我意识到,动作不必是自然主义的。它是像音乐或歌词一样的另一个层面,讲述着另一个平行故事。

是否有任何人类奋斗的领域让你感到冷漠?

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我有点厌倦了目前每一次对话都围绕着 AI 展开。并不是说它不迷人或不会产生巨大影响,但我们能不能谈谈其他事情?我们能不能不谈特朗普?

很快就会有一部关于你最近巡演《Who Is the Sky?》的电影,由布雷迪·科贝(Brady Corbet,《野兽派》)执导。他使用了 70 毫米胶片拍摄。为什么?克里斯托弗·诺兰,小心了!许多数字相机和胶片试图模拟 35 毫米图像,而 35 毫米图像的大小大约像一张大邮票。而 70 毫米的每一帧都更大,几乎有信用卡那么大。显然,你获得了更高的分辨率,但还发生了其他事情。70 毫米更接近眼睛所看到的景象。你可以捕捉到宽广的远景,整个视野,你的眼睛会像在街上行走或在风景区一样四处扫描。

你对目前看到的成片满意吗?我看过第一首歌《Heaven》,全片是一个长镜头。看起来太棒了!采访者:基蒂·帝国(Kitty Empire)

我有点厌倦 AI 了。我们能谈谈别的吗?我们能不能不谈特朗普?

《Sleeping Beauties》由 Canongate 出版社于 10 月 8 日出版(售价 £26)。订阅者在 observershop.co.uk 订购时可享受建议零售价 20% 的折扣。

“这始终更多地关乎人,而非比赛”

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亚历克斯·弗格森的新回忆录是用 21 场比赛串联起的一段人生故事。在一次罕见且广泛的访谈中,他向保罗·海沃德讲述了对家庭的热爱、艰苦奋斗的传承以及管理年轻球员的天赋如何成为他成功的关键。

亚历克斯·弗格森在书房里打完招呼后,做的第一件事就是指向他庞大的关于约翰·F·肯尼迪遇刺书籍收藏中的一件新藏品:大卫·塔尔博特的《魔鬼的棋盘》(The Devil's Chessboard)。弗格森直接切入了这个令他着迷的主题,自从 63 年前作为一名年轻足球运动员听说枪击事件以来,他便一直对此关注。

在这位前曼彻斯特联主教练的书架上,有一本镀金皮革装订的关于 1963 年 11 月达拉斯致命枪击事件的沃伦委员会报告。放在他办公桌上的塔尔博特的书,让弗格森对凶手是谁产生了新的假设。他有自己的理论。

他记得当时正在浴室里刮胡子,准备参加周五晚上的舞会,这时他的父亲喊道:“约翰·肯尼迪被枪击了,是真的吗?”他的儿子回道:“爸,你耳聋了——是你幻听了。”在他自己的新书《我生命中的比赛》(Games of My Life)中,弗格森回忆起后来在舞会上为肯尼迪默哀的一分钟,并写道:“肯尼迪的去世似乎给我的生活中发生的一切笼罩了一层更阴暗的阴影——这位英俊的、获得勋章的战争老兵,在 46 岁时被枪杀。”

自 2013 年从曼联退休,期间获得了 13 个英超联赛冠军、两次欧冠冠军和五次足总杯冠军以来,现年 84 岁的弗格森在某种程度上成了自己过去的档案管理员。在他 1999 年撰写的自传《管理我的生活》(Managing My Life)之后,他又增加了第二卷《我的自传》(My Autobiography),随后是一本关于管理的书《领导力》(Leading)。一部名为《亚历克斯·弗格森爵士:永不放弃》(Sir Alex Ferguson: Never Give In)的纪录片,追溯了他从一名激进的工会成员到 2018 年 5 月险些夺走他生命的脑出血的故事。这部新书使他的文学作品增加到四部,是对在格拉斯哥造船厂度过的青年时代、在苏格兰踢球和执教,以及在曼联统治 27 年之辉煌的 21 场比赛的沉思。他说,所有这些项目对于帮助他保持精神活跃都至关重要。

我与他的关系始于 20 世纪 90 年代的几次大报访谈。对于一名足球记者来说,能与“弗格森”一对一访谈是极具价值的“大奖”,同时也令人畏惧,因为他对采访者的标准要求很高。那些文章可能促成了 2013 年那个共同撰写第二部自传的长期项目邀请。在写作过程的每一步中,他都极力致力于让回忆录达到尽可能最高的水平。听他连续数小时描述他的工作,感觉就像是一次启示。

最左侧,2011 年在老特拉福德更衣室的亚历克斯·弗格森;左侧,他在教练课程期间做的笔记。肖恩·波洛克,由亚历克斯·弗格森爵士和 Pan Macmillan 提供。

右侧,年轻的弗格森在家里锻炼;下方,2013 年老特拉福德的一面球迷横幅。

现在再次聚在一起,我们欣赏他收藏的无与伦比的传记作家罗伯特·卡罗的书,尤其是《工作》(Working),这是一本报道界的圣经,其书名或许能概括弗格森本人对艰苦奋斗的执着。

《我生命中的比赛》反映了这一点。它不是一部“精选集”,而更像是一个性格形成弧线,跨越了 69 年的比赛。他计算过,自己在 61 个国家参加或执教了 2,800 多场正式比赛,另有 300 场表演赛。

这21场选定的比赛从苏格兰的公园球场开始,涵盖了他为格拉斯哥流浪者队效力的两个赛季,以及在阿伯丁队和曼联队辉煌的执教生涯。“我完全可以只选在曼联的比赛,”他说,“但杰森(他的儿子)提醒了我,我还为格拉斯哥学校队、德拉姆查佩尔业余队(Drumchapel Amateurs)等球队踢过很多场比赛。”

在脑出血后的日子里,弗格森失去了说话能力,并写下笔记以重启记忆。

因此,这里没有记录1999年在巴塞罗那那个疯狂的夜晚。当时曼联完成了英超联赛、足总杯和欧冠联赛的神圣三冠王,他们在对阵拜仁慕尼黑的比赛补时阶段打入两球;在那场比赛中,直到奇迹发生之前,一切感觉就像一场慢动作的心碎。

“这件事已经被记录得很详尽了——你生活中每一分钟都能看到,”弗格森在解释为何将其省略时说道,“尽管这对我来说可能是最重要的一场比赛,因为我之前从未赢得过欧洲冠军杯。如果整个职业生涯都没有实现这一点,那将是一件憾事。获得这个‘圣杯’一直是我心中深藏的愿望。[但]真正让我立刻想起的比赛更多是关于人的,而不仅仅是比赛本身。”

在许多令人动容的章节中,最后一章尤为特殊。在他扶手椅对面的一只玻璃展柜里,放着顶孤独的苏格兰国家队球帽。弗格森指着它,讲述了苏格兰足球协会(SFA)如何让他等待了54年才允许他拥有一顶球帽的故事。足球界从未有人如此长时间地违抗过弗格森。

1967年的夏天,他参加了苏格兰队的夏季巡回赛,与国家队进行了四场比赛——一场对阵以色列,三场对阵澳大利亚——此外还与三支邀请赛球队进行了比赛。他在这次旅行中打入了九球。然而,苏格兰足球协会(SFA)将其定义为B队巡回赛,因为俱乐部事务导致太多球员不得不退出。这一裁定在半个多世纪的时间里一直令他耿耿于怀。

弗格森是一个深感自豪的苏格兰人,他至今仍订阅《星期日邮报》(Sunday Post),将他在曼彻斯特的第一栋房子命名为“Fairfields”,以纪念他父亲工作的戈文(Govan)造船厂,并且每次去格拉斯哥都会带回土豆饼(tattie scones)到切希尔的家中。他绝不会接受当局否认他在苏格兰荣誉榜上与肯尼·达格利什、丹尼斯·劳和格雷姆·苏内斯并列的地位。

他依然盯着柜子里的球帽说:“我给苏格兰足球协会(SFA)写了一封得体的信,我说:‘这不是为了虚荣——这是恳请你们理解为自己的国家效力意味着什么。’于是,苏格兰足球协会(SFA)决定给我一顶球帽,同时也给了另外三名球员。球帽上写着‘夏季巡回赛’。尽管如此,我还是得到了球帽。”他现在说,这个奖项“为我的一生画上了圆满的句号”。

弗格森知道,自己能活着填补纪念品收藏中的这个空白是幸运的。八年前的一个五月早晨,他起床时感到“剧烈的头痛”,随后“瘫倒在鞋架旁”。他的亡妻凯西戴着她的新助听器,听到了撞击声并召唤了住在附近的杰森。弗格森在萨尔福德皇家医院接受了缓解脑出血的手术后醒来。他恢复意识后问的第一个问题是,他儿子达伦执教的唐卡斯特罗弗斯队在对阵维冈竞技的比赛中表现如何。那天医院里有五名脑出血患者接受了手术,只有两人幸存。

在接下来的日子里,他失去了说话能力,并给自己写笔记以重启记忆。他对自己声音的丧失感到恐惧,而对于每一个曾在他麾下效力的球员来说,这个声音早已深深烙印在他们生命的声音带中。但到了九月下旬,在四个月后

脑出血之后,他回到了老特拉福德球场,观看曼联与伍尔弗汉普顿流浪者的比赛——这也是书中的一场比赛。很少去看比赛的凯西当时就在他身边。“我可能管理了曼联,”他现在说,“但凯西才是那个管理‘弗格森联’的人。”

她在2023年去世。在共同生活59年后,她的离去给这座房子笼罩了一层痛苦的阴影:“59年是很长的时间,”他说。“凯西身上有很强的宗教信仰,她一直将自己视为一名妻子和母亲。她从未干涉我作为主教练的生活。从未对此抱怨,因为她知道那是我的工作。一个极好的妻子,对孩子们来说——也非常出色。

“她非常擅长评判人。对于那些想对我示好的人,她非常谨慎。她从未来到这里 [指他现在的房子]。我们在周六早上结婚,而我在下午就参加了比赛。”

作为讲故事高手的弗格森,情绪从未低落太久。他几乎最显著的特征就是那种冲动

从左起顺时针方向:年轻时的弗格森与父亲及祖父母;20世纪60年代初与妻子凯西的合影;1955年戈文高中的球队合照,弗格森在底排右起第二位;婴儿时期的他。由亚历克斯·弗格森爵士和Pan Macmillan提供

讲述有趣的故事并开怀大笑。回想起过去,他记得在见到凯西的母亲时,对方问他:“先生,你喝酒吗?”费格森现在在回忆起当时大声回喊“我叫亚历克!”时,发出了雷鸣般的笑声。

📄 外文原文 ↗

在戈文的一个公寓楼里,费格森的父母“睡在厨房的凹室床里”,因为两间卧室中的一间被租给了一个爱尔兰家庭。费格森和他的兄弟马丁睡在另一间房里。“那套公寓造就了我,是我培养内在自信和成功驱动力的场所,”他写道。

在他通过工具制造工学徒认证的证书上,所列出的技能同样适用于他打磨球员的天赋:“铣削、成形、槽切、车削以及各种形式的研磨”。

费格森一家正是乔治·奥威尔可能会将其定义为自豪的工人阶级:精明、加入工会且痴迷足球。费格森第一次观看曼联比赛是在1953年5月,当时曼联来到汉普登公园球场在加冕杯中对阵格拉斯哥流浪者队。三十年后,他成为了新的马特·巴斯比:他不仅是曼联的主教练,更是这个集体的家长和主宰。

如果你向他提出这样一个理论——要成为一名真正伟大的足球经理,需要具备一种气场、魅力和性格力量——他的眼睛会因认同而发光。“绝对正确。斯坦。大乔克。我很享受和他共事的时光。那种气场。香克斯 [比尔·香克斯,1959-74年利物浦主教练] 同样拥有那种气场。你想要成为像他们那样的人。”

除了肯尼迪外,他的藏书倾向于政治学中的“历史伟人论”学派。他对希特勒和斯大林也非常着迷,但这并不是因为某些人可能认为的那样,他将自己的管理风格模仿自暴君。

“人们真的认为我仅仅通过对人们大吼大叫就能赢得所有那些奖杯吗?”在他和我一起撰写回忆录时,他曾这样问我。

我的理论是,他首先是一位人性教授,是一位擅长洞察他人内心世界(尤其是年轻足球运动员)的人。一名成功的经理是能够说服他人去做他——即经理——想要或需要他们做的事情的人,即使这并不一定符合对方的利益;他能将有时极其艰苦的日常投入包装成一种对球队、对俱乐部的道德义务,以及实现自我价值的唯一途径。

弗格森一家正是奥威尔所称的自豪的工人阶级:聪明、加入工会、痴迷足球

📄 外文原文 ↗

弗格森现在并不否认这一点,并直接提到“我在[打字机制造商雷明顿-兰德(Remington Rand)]工程部门担任工会代表的经历。当我们罢工时,我召集了所有学徒。罢工是为了给学徒争取更好的标准和薪水。我们的薪水很不错,因为我们是一家美国公司。但我们有责任帮助其他人。全部出击——这就是核心信息。每个人都在用锤子和木槌敲击他们的机器。那太令人兴奋了。”

他补充道:“我喜欢让球员到我的办公室来。I liked to talk to them. 我有时会对年轻球员这样做。我会给他们讲个故事之类的。我的墙上挂着一张照片,是建造洛克菲勒中心时的场景,工人们坐在高高的钢梁上。”

他会向学徒们展示那张著名的照片(《摩天大楼之上的午餐》,1932),并说:“看到了吗?一点也不害怕。而我要求你们就这样走出去[上场]。如果我发现你们在抢断时畏缩,我就把你们带到那根[钢梁]上去。”

“我坚持的另一件事是——保持一致性。无论是在圣米伦、阿伯丁还是曼联,我对年轻球员的信念从未改变。这一点始终存在。我认为这是正确的。我认为培养年轻球员是好事。我从曼联青训营培养出了数十名成为国家队成员的球员,这相当不错。”

标准是另一个主题。“纪律。当我接手时,他们没有西装外套。我想:‘这是曼联!’于是我立刻配备了西装外套。当你走在机场时,人们会想到:‘他们是曼联队。’如果你穿着牛仔裤和皮夹克走过去,没人会注意到。队徽告诉了所有人。”

他的教练生涯始于1974年,当时他“开着我的福特旅行车来到东斯特林郡队的门口”,在转会预算为 2,000 英镑 且球员周薪在 £5 到 £8 之间的情况下工作。他此前作为一名好斗的中锋,在苏格兰前锋的某种黄金时代中拥有相当体面的职业生涯;因此,他说,他很难获得苏格兰国家队的正式出场机会。

与他最亲近的人表示,适应能力是他的标志之一,从在苏格兰足球的偏远地区试图让那些流浪球员远离酒吧,到掌控克里斯蒂亚诺·罗纳尔多、埃里克·坎通纳、韦恩·鲁尼、大卫·贝克汉姆、罗伊·基恩、

左图为弗格森在 20 世纪 50 年代为苏格兰青年队热身,右图为他在 2010 年位于曼联的教练办公室。 courtesy of Sir Alex Ferguson and Pan Macmillan

左图与凯西在纽约,右图为 2021 年在汉普顿公园球场,他拿着苏格兰国家队代表队帽子,这“为我的一生画上了圆满的句号”。 courtesy of Sir Alex Ferguson and Pan Macmillan, SNS Group / Getty Images

瑞安·吉格斯以及无数其他球员。他与贝克汉姆和基恩的冲突是对其权威的考验,最终以这两位超级巨星被驱逐、而教练的统治地位保持完好而告终。基恩在一次争吵中曾对他说道:“你变了。”弗格森反击道:“你说得对,我变了。如果我不变,我就不可能还在这里。”

在足球总监、庞大的管理架构以及数据分析师大军的时代,弗格森的统治时期可能既像一段日益遥远的记忆,又像一段值得向往的时光。他在执掌曼联期间所带来的确定性(以及奖杯)唤起了一种感觉,即某些不可挽回的东西已经丢失;现在的英超联赛完全变成了交易,缺乏由乔克·斯坦、比尔·香克利、巴斯比、阿尔塞纳·温格和弗格森这些“仁慈的独裁者”为足球运动带来的精神宏伟感。

他在书中写道:“如果我现在是一名教练,我仍然希望对与足球运营相关的一切拥有最终控制权——所有的一切。如果教练是那个为结果承担责任的人,那么他就理应拥有相应的权力。”

书中保存的笔记同样耐人寻味。他说:“我有许多本笔记本。我一直在做记录。主要是关于俱乐部的活动、来见我的球员,以及关于比赛。管理球队有很多种方式。我在格拉斯哥流浪者队时,从未见过主教练斯科特·赛蒙穿过运动服,一次都没有。他戴着圆顶硬礼帽,穿着西装背心——穿着得体得无可挑剔。”

自他退休以来,曼联教练的频繁更迭(13年间共有11位)在采访中是被禁止提及的;这是为了避免成为体育版面的新闻循环,并向任何试图扭转局面的曼联主教练表示尊重。他在老特拉福德起步时的艰难时期,在1989年被一条画在床单上的信息永恒记录了下来:“3年的借口,结果依然烂透了……再见吧,弗格森。”

但他确实说道:“支持曼联最棒的一点是,当他们状态爆发并赢得一场大赛时,你会感受到那种巅峰快感。他们获胜的方式总是令人兴奋。绝不是靠把球踢向球场另一端然后赢得一个任意球。我的看法是——我仍然喜欢去现场,因为支持者永远在那里。”

“我对自己说:‘每周7.5万名观众。’不可能有比这更忠诚的球迷群体了。人们说这回到了慕尼黑

“

‘我可能

管理过

曼彻斯特

联,’他

说,‘但我的

妻子凯西

管理着

弗格森

联’

空难[及其之后]的状态。我仍然在一定程度上坚守这一点,因为在我的时代,周围总是有这些伟大的球员。丹尼斯·劳经常来参加训练。诺比·斯泰尔曾跟我一起担任过一段时间的青年教练。还有鲍比·查尔顿……一个绝对伟大的人。”

如果说他的书房感觉像一个退休学者的巢穴,到处散落着书籍,他承认自己现在阅读得少了,就像许多80多岁的人一样。在他对葡萄酒、赛马和肯尼迪遇刺事件的旧兴趣之外,他又增加了对痴呆症慈善机构的支持。他在格拉斯哥买了一栋房子,以便离患有该病的哥哥马丁更近,并为了“确保凯西的纪念碑得到照顾且状态良好”。

由杰基·斯图尔特为其“对抗痴呆症”慈善机构在伦敦举办的一场晚宴,引发了弗格森对一种困扰数百名前足球运动员疾病的担忧。“我自己也担心这个问题,因为我经常顶球,”他说,“所有足球运动员都这样。痴呆症是对任何年长者的挑战。你会对此非常担心。我总是对自己说:‘我已经84岁了 [笑]。如果我能活到85岁,我就没问题了。’”为了安慰自己,他想到了马丁·斯科塞斯在《愤怒之牛》中塑造的拳击手杰克·拉莫塔,他参加了106场比赛,但依然活到了95岁。

“他认出我了,这太棒了,”弗格森在谈到他的兄弟时说道。“在格拉斯哥,他们发起了一项音乐活动 [Playlist for Life,一家音乐与失智症慈善机构],其理念是你给他们一个装满你所有最爱歌曲的盒子。他们只需按下按钮即可播放,这能唤回所有的记忆。”他捐赠了 10 万英镑 并提交了一份播放列表,其中包括弗兰克·辛纳屈、纳特·金·科尔、埃尔维斯·普雷斯利、披头士和达斯蒂·斯普林菲尔德的歌曲。他还添加了一首歌,这首歌“让我想起 1993 年曼联第一次赢得英超联赛时在老特拉福德球场的荣誉绕场”。那必然是皇后乐队的《We Are the Champions》。

由于跟腱受伤,弗格森的一只脚穿着医疗靴,目前处于轻量活动状态,以管理自己的体力。但当我离开时,他笑着陪我走到前门,说道:“不管怎样,我还活着。”他一直以来都拥有如此强烈且不知疲倦的生命力。

由亚历克斯·弗格森与迈克尔·莫里茨合著的《Games of My Life》将于 8 October 由 Pan Macmillan 出版(售价 £40)。订阅者在 observershop.co.uk 下单时可享受建议零售价 20% 的折扣。

拉迪·皮特(Radie Peat)是帮助 Lankum 获得水星音乐奖提名的音乐家,她正处于民谣复兴的前沿。她告诉基利安·福克斯(Killian Fox),为什么她首张个人专辑中的歌曲能与一个正在重塑传统文化的国家产生共鸣。

一个新爱尔兰的声音

📄 外文原文 ↗

在最近的一个工作日夜晚,都柏林北区一家酒吧的侧室里,八位音乐家围在几张矮桌旁相对而坐。他们手拿品脱啤酒,演奏了一系列器乐曲目——包括布伦丹·汤拉(Brendan Tonra)的《冬日之苹果》(Apples in Winter)——令周围聚集的饮酒者们感到愉悦。这里几乎没有任何形式主义;在歌曲之间,演奏者们彼此聊天,也与观众交流,观众人数增加到了总共12人,其中许多是亲友。

在左后角,一名女子在两名小提琴手的簇拥下演奏着手风琴,神情极度专注。如果你偶然走进来,可能会被她的外貌所吸引——她留着红金色的短发,拥有一双迷人的蓝色眼睛,戴着银色圆环耳环——以及她对乐器的熟练掌控。但你可能猜不到,因为她今晚一次也没有开口唱歌,她拥有同辈人中最非凡的声音之一——无论是在爱尔兰还是在其他任何地方。

雷迪·皮特(Radie Peat)主要以 Lankum 乐队成员的身份为人所知,这支都柏林乐队近年来在提升当代爱尔兰民谣音乐知名度方面比任何人都做得更多。她还在其他几个团体中演唱和演奏,尤其是 ∅XN,该团体在 2023 年发行了一张广受好评的长篇专辑《CYRM》。现在,她正准备发行自己的首张个人专辑,这张专辑经过了多年的筹备。据都柏林民谣之星约翰·弗朗西斯·弗林(John Francis Flynn)称,这将有助于巩固皮特作为该国历史上最重要的音乐家之一的声誉。但今晚,在这家她每周都来演奏的酒吧后方——皮特恳求我不要透露酒吧的名字,担心过度曝光——她只是一个庞大音乐集体中一个谦逊的组成部分。

我们前一天在亨利埃塔街(Henrietta Street)的一栋房子里见面,那里曾是一排宏伟的乔治亚风格排屋,也是本文照片的拍摄地。皮特因为睡眠不足而脸色苍白,手里紧握着一杯咖啡。如果你主要通过她在 Lankum 视频中的出镜来了解这位艺术家,那些形象从冷峻到诡异如女巫(见《挖掘我的坟墓》 / Go Dig My Grave)不等,那么你如果预期她会有一种严厉的气场,也是可以理解的。弗林在成长过程中与皮特的妹妹关系很好,

以前很怕她。“她当时非常酷,”他告诉我,并补充说在成年后了解她之后,他的印象发生了变化:“她依然很酷,但没那么吓人了。”

当我们坐在宽敞的一楼客厅里,墙上的灰泥有裂缝,角落里放着一箱标本鸟,我发现皮特很有魅力,深思熟虑且幽默,但每当我提出深入的问题时,她会表现出一种明显的保留,明确表示她不会详细谈论个人生活。

不要试图在她的新专辑《人类之舌无法言说》(No Human Tongue Can Tell)中寻找答案。首先,这九首曲目没有一首是由她创作的,而是皮特多年来收集的现有民谣的演绎。就像服装一样,她曾在不同的语境中尝试过其中的几首,包括在 Lankum 乐队中。在这里,她不仅用她那强大的女低音将这些歌曲演绎得恰到好处——这种声音表达出的愤怒与渴望往往能产生令人震撼的效果。她完全重塑了这些歌曲,使得人们感觉到——尽管它们经过了几代人的传承——但仿佛是第一次被表演。

“我一直知道我想这么做,但我从未将其放在优先位置,”她在谈到制作个人专辑时说道。她的重心一直放在 Lankum 乐队上,该乐队作为浓烈且充满低音嗡鸣(drone-heavy)民谣的传播者,其迅速攀升的人气令成员们感到意外。“我们从未想象过会有这么多人想听我们创作的这种极其古怪的音乐,”皮特(Peat)告诉我。她最终在 2021 年,即 Lankum 第三张和第四张专辑之间开始录制这张 LP,但不久后便怀孕了。“我的计划是在生孩子之前完成全部录制,”她微笑着说,“但显然,这并没有实现——又花了几年的时间。”

这种延迟既与她建立家庭有关,也与她极具野心的创作过程有关。“关于我想如何制作这张专辑的想法,部分源于观看了一部关于迈克·奥尔德菲尔德(Mike Oldfield)如何制作《管钟》(Tubular Bells)的纪录片,我觉得那非常迷人,因为他将所有自己的录音层层叠加。而这需要时间。”

拉迪·皮特(Radie Peat)

为《观察者报》拍摄

于都柏林

新评论(New Review)

万物皆有规律。

📄 外文原文 ↗

探索

第四次

降临

弗朗西斯·基思·罗宾斯 (FRANCIS KEITH ROBINS)

第四次

降临

上帝数学如何拨乱反正

探索由弗朗西斯·基思·罗宾斯所著的《第四次降临》(The Fourth Coming),这是一部关于数学、意识以及社会未来的发人深省的探索之作。本书借鉴集合思维和客观推理,提出了一种理解世界并应对挑战的新方式。探索关于我们如何思考、生活以及塑造未来的不同视角。

大脑应当

运作的方式 - 现已发售

观察者报

书店

Peat 的演奏曲目远不止手风琴,这对此很有帮助。当我请她列出专辑中演奏的所有乐器时,她有些犹豫,因为她并不喜欢炫耀自己的才华。“嗯,里面有吉他。还有 Mellotron、风琴和男低音手风琴。有一种叫 bayan 的东西,是一种古老的俄罗斯手风琴。还有 Moog 和其他合成器。噢天哪,还有竖琴……”(她没有提到 Casiotone 键盘、Wurlitzer 电钢琴和 Hammond 管风琴。)

📄 外文原文 ↗

作为本专辑制作人的 Lankum 关键合作者 John “Spud” Murphy 告诉我,这张专辑“90-something per cent 是 Radie”。其余部分由 ∅XN 和 Lankum 的其他成员客串组成;当然,还包括来自昔日爱尔兰、英国和阿巴拉契亚山的原创词曲作者,Peat 经常以一种近乎乖戾的方式对他们的作品进行剪辑和修改。在《Willow Garden》(一首关于一名年轻女性被其男性情侣杀害的民谣,由后者讲述故事)这首歌中,她希望听众的体验“感觉就像在服用安定药(Valium)”。结果,这是我听过最古怪且令人心安的谋杀民谣。

Peat 更多地被那些从女性视角讲述的歌曲所吸引。“我发现这些歌曲非常有趣,”她说,“尤其是当歌曲中的女性不仅仅是被欲望的对象,而是具有实际的主动权时。有些歌曲非常古老,所以你谈论的是一个女性权利远低于我现在的时代。[但] 我发现这些歌曲出人意料地具有前卫意识。”

我想知道,为什么她决定完全使用过去的歌曲,而不是创作自己的作品?

首先,她说,“当你编写编曲时,无论如何,你都已经将其带入了一个不同的世界”。但她接着说道,淡化自我正是民谣音乐的意义所在。“对我来说,这是一种无我的媒介,因为这些歌曲跨越了世代,多年来被如此多的人改变过。这种感觉让我觉得非常宽慰,因为这是一种普世的人类体验。它不局限于你个人的经验和世界观——你还拥有这种集体性。”

不过,她微笑着补充道,以免自己完全从画面中消失:“我也对它们做了很多改动。”

Peat 今年 30 多岁(她拒绝透露具体年龄),从她记得起就在演奏音乐。她在都柏林工人阶级郊区 Artane 长大,那里还出过 Brendan Gleeson 和 U2 的 Larry Mullen Jr,不过 Peat 更在意的是 Enya 在 20 世纪 80 年代在那里生活和录音(她告诉我,她希望自己的专辑听起来像“黑暗版的 Enya”)。Peat 的家庭具有音乐氛围,她记得曾在城市各地的酒吧和小舞台上表演。“我记得在 12 或 13 岁时思考过这个问题,问自己:‘这就是你想做的事吗?你真的喜欢做这个吗?’ 然后我几乎立刻就觉得:‘是的,我喜欢。’”

我在 20 世纪 80 和 90 年代在爱尔兰长大时,记得自己很讨厌传统音乐(trad)。与我喜爱的英国和美国音乐相比,它听起来很狭隘,且被过去所累。如今我对它的态度积极得多,但我很好奇 Peat 小时候对此怎么看。她难道从未想过反叛吗?

“嗯,我可能让你对我音乐根源的印象产生了偏差,”她回答道,“因为 [演奏传统音乐] 是我和家人一起做的事,但那不是我听的音乐。”她对 Nina Simone 更感兴趣。“后来我开始听 Motown,然后是 Radiohead,接着是更重口味的音乐。我听过很多不同类型的音乐——现在依然如此。”

Peat 2023 年在都柏林与 Lankum 一起表演。下方为该乐队同年在水星音乐奖颁奖典礼上的照片,当时他们的专辑《False Lankum》获得了提名。Getty Images

至于对传统音乐的抵触:“人们看待传统音乐的方式确实发生了变化。在演奏它的圈子之外,它曾非常不受欢迎。当时存在一种明显的界限:你要么演奏它,成为其中的一部分并意识到它有多伟大;要么你处于圈外,我甚至会说,是对它持有轻蔑态度。我认为这是一种潜移默化渗入其中的后殖民心态。”

这意味着爱尔兰人不重视自己的文化是殖民压迫的遗产?

“是的,没错——认为它是落后的、令人尴尬的,或者诸如此类,但事实并非如此。”

尽管音乐对 Peat 极其重要,但在 Lankum 出现之前,她从未想过将其作为职业。这支乐队是通过 Cormac MacDiarmada 建立联系的,他是 Peat 的旧校友,经营着一个当地的音乐聚会(session)。在那里,她遇到了 Ian 和 Daragh Lynch 兄弟,这两位朋克摇滚乐手在 20 岁出头时被民谣音乐深深吸引。四个人很快发现,他们在音乐上的共同兴趣远超民谣范畴。

“我只记得我们当时非常兴奋,”Peat 在谈到 Lankum 早期时光时说道。(这支乐队在 2016 年之前被称为 Lynched,随后进行了一次审慎的更名;“”一词源自爱尔兰旅行者 John Reilly Jr. 所演唱的民谣《False 》)。“就像是,哇,我们的想法完全一致。我们都意识到,我们正试图创造一些此前从未听过的东西。”

他们在 2014 年以四人组形式发行了首张专辑。音乐如此阴郁,而且

很多受众:Peat 说:“所以看到竟然有这么多人产生共鸣,感觉很奇妙。”随后他们又发行了三张专辑,获得了日益增长的赞誉,2023 年的《False 》获得了水星音乐奖的提名。

那一年我看到他们在都柏林的 Vicar Street 表演,记得被家乡观众迸发出的爱与尊重所震撼。

Peat 将 的崛起以及爱尔兰民谣音乐同步的复兴,视为更广泛文化复兴的一部分,“人们在重新学习爱尔兰语,对我们的民俗产生兴趣,服装设计师在参考爱尔兰传统纺织品。不过,”她补充道,“‘复兴’意味着这在以前发生过,而我不确定爱尔兰人是否曾经如此自在地面对自己的文化。我们现在审视它而不再退缩,并且觉得,实际上,这里确实有一些很棒的东西。”

然而,这其中存在着阴暗的另一面。“谈到文化复兴,让我感到不安的是,在对自身文化产生这种非常正当且必要的兴趣复兴的同时,右翼意识形态也在崛起,这种意识形态极其种族主义且排外——坦白说,我为此感到羞愧。我为三色旗变成了仇恨的象征而感到羞愧,我为人们在爱尔兰感到受威胁和不受欢迎而感到羞愧。我认为我们真的走偏了,尤其是对于一个有数百万民众移民海外的国家来说。这让我非常难过。”

她承认阶级分化在加剧敌对情绪,而全国性的住房和医疗危机进一步恶化了这一局面。“人们感到被边缘化,尤其是在工人阶级地区,他们被推向边缘。我只是认为他们将愤怒指向了错误的方向。他们应该对政府的管理不善感到愤怒。但遗憾的是,很多人似乎认为,是那些住在隔壁、长相略有不同的人……”她停了下来,显得有些不安。“我希望这一切都能说得通。我不是政治家。”

也许这种不安正是她更倾向于在音乐中传达他人的话语而非创作自己的词作的原因之一。专辑中最激昂的歌曲《风之黑马》(Dark Horse of the Wind)是由爱尔兰民谣歌手利亚姆·韦尔登(Liam Weldon)在1966年创作的。在1916 Easter Rising半个世纪后,这首歌毫不含糊地反思了爱尔兰国家的失败与腐败:“如今骗子穿着死者的鞋,是的,且敲击死者的骨 / 在坟墓的尘埃落定之前,他们已将墓石变现。”在60年后由皮特(Peat)演唱,这些词句依然锋利。

这使得专辑听起来有些冷峻,但其中也蕴含着一种温柔,以及一种与兰库姆(Lankum)音色的强烈感形成对比的空灵感。而且,她能够将令人不安的主题——例如主打单曲《我依然爱他》(Still I Love Him)中关于虐待关系的内容——转化为令人心碎的美妙音乐,这其中蕴含着一种炼金术般的魔力。

此外,还有一首模仿安定药(Valium)感觉的谋杀民谣。这并非皮特职业生涯中演绎的第一首血腥曲目。是什么吸引她接触这类阴暗素材?

“戏剧冲突!”她笑着吟诵道。“显然,这些歌曲讲述的是人类情感和行为的极端状态,但我发现它们也很有趣。为什么人们要写关于谋杀的民谣?我想,就像为什么我们要拍关于谋杀的电影一样?这太病态了。”

她说她看很多犯罪剧。“我不确定为什么,但我确实在看。我觉得它们很有趣。在某种程度上,歌曲就像报纸头条——能流传下来的,就是那些最令人着迷的。”

这似乎是对她新专辑的一个很好的概括。接下来,她计划与兰库姆和∅XN共同创作新音乐。她已经开始了与前者的合作,如果他们最近的单曲——一首带有咒语感且尝试电子元素的、翻唱自 The Specials 乐队的《鬼镇》(Ghost Town)——能提供某种迹象的话,这可能预示着该乐队一个全新的方向。

与此同时,皮特正忙于家庭生活(她与丹尼尔·兰伯特有一个女儿,后者管理着另一个极受欢迎的爱尔兰组合 Kneecap)。她还很愉快地在某个不公开的地点,为小规模观众进行每周一次的传统音乐演奏会。但对于皮特来说,想要长期保持低调可能很难了。

《凡人之舌不能言》(No Human Tongue Can Tell)由拉迪·皮特(Radie Peat)创作,将于13 November通过 Rough Trade Records 发行。她将于3 November在伦敦 N1 的联合教堂(Union Chapel)以及20 November在都柏林的维卡街(Vicar Street)进行演出。

感恩而死乐队与诞生

一部新的广播纪录片探讨了这支终极嬉皮乐队那些精通技术的粉丝们,如何帮助开创了当今数字化互联的世界。肖恩·奥哈根(Seán O'Hagan)解释了他制作这部纪录片的原因。

硅谷之源

📄 外文原文 ↗

当我在 20 世纪 80 年代中期,在朋克和后朋克浪潮之后开始撰写关于音乐的文章时,感恩死团(Grateful Dead)被视为是对和平、爱、扎染服装和无休止即兴演奏的嬉皮士时代的回归。如果作家或音乐家提到他们,通常带着一种近乎嘲讽的轻视。

涅槃乐队(Nirvana)的库尔特·科本(Kurt Cobain)对感恩死团尤为鄙视,认为他们通过成为美国收入最高的巡演团体之一而背叛了他们的嬉皮士理想。在提到该乐队的创作歌手时,科本曾说过,他唯一愿意穿的扎染 T 恤应该是被“杰里·加西亚(Jerry Garcia)的血”染红的。

现在,在 40 多年之后,冒着被贴上文化异端标签的风险,我为 Radio 4 制作了一部纪录片,其中指出感恩死团在文化上的重要性可能与披头士(the Beatles)相当。事情是如何演变成这样的?

当该节目的制片人里奇·鲍尔(Rich Power)第一次向我提出这个想法时,我的反应——就像大多数理智的人一样——是直接拒绝了这个主张。正如我们在广播纪录片中明确指出的,披头士创作了一系列精雕细琢、至今仍有回响的歌曲;而感恩死团经常将一首歌拉长成 30 分钟的即兴演奏。在他们共同奋斗的 8 年里,披头士拥有无数全球热门专辑和单曲;而在 30 年的生命周期中,感恩死团仅有一张进入美国前 10 名的专辑和一张热门单曲。披头士是有史以来最受赞誉且最具影响力的流行团体;而感恩死团在美国以外仍然相对不为人知且未被歌颂。

鲍尔对我所有的抗议频频点头,然后冷静且有条理地阐述了他的论点。简单来说,就是这样:披头士定义了 20 世纪的流行文化,但感恩死团——以及他们庞大的忠实追随者网络“死头”(Deadheads)——预见了我们现在所生活的数字化连接的 21 世纪。

“披头士以一种非常有力的方式,开启了对青年文化和大众文化的愿景,”《从反文化到网络文化》(From Counterculture to Cyberculture)的作者、该纪录片的主要贡献者弗雷德·特纳(Fred Turner)说道,“死团在另一种意义上很重要,因为他们处于 60 年代一种巨大的技术社会变革的中心,而我们现在并不认为那是变革,因为这与嬉皮士和长发者相关。他们推动了这一点,他们围绕它召集社区,他们甚至帮助我们建立了一套理解现状的语言。”

为了理解该乐队独特的旅程及其文化重要性,我们必须回到 1965 年 12 月 4 日那个夜晚,当时一支非正式地被称为“术士”(Warlocks)的酒吧乐队以“感恩死团”之名进行了首次演出。

当时的事项是作者肯·凯西(Ken Kesey)及其迷幻先驱核心圈子“快乐恶作剧者”(Merry Pranksters)组织的最早的几次“酸液测试”(acid tests)之一。他们的目标是让美国人意识到 LSD 扩展意识的潜力,而 LSD 在当时仍然合法。为此,从 1965, 11 月到 1966, 10 月,他们从位于加利福尼亚州拉洪达(La Honda)的公社基地出发,乘坐一辆涂成迷幻色彩的改装校车前往该州的各个地点。车头上的目的地标志写着:“更远”(Further)。

“恶作剧者”为每场活动制作手工海报,提出一个既是谜题又是挑战的问题:“你能通过酸液测试吗?”参与者被提供掺有 LSD-25,(该药物最纯净形式)的 Kool-Aid(一种由水果味粉末制成的软饮料)。他们进入一个既是自发行为又是荒诞剧的空间,让自己沉浸在幻觉不确定性的漫漫长夜中。一个实验舞团可能会给艾伦·金斯堡(Allen Ginsberg)等垮掉派诗人的即兴朗诵让路;一场迷幻的光影秀似乎随着感恩死团大声的半即兴现场音乐而律动,而感恩死团通过加西亚与凯西的友谊,迅速成为了酸液测试的御用乐队。

作为迷幻先驱,与 The Doors 或 Jimi Hendrix Experience 等同时代乐队相比,Grateful Dead 是一群古怪且缺乏个人魅力的家伙,但他们不知为何能在 LSD 的药效下完成长时间的演出。在此期间,他们还与一些将塑造新兴加州反主流文化的最具创造力的思想家们相遇。其中最引人注目的是斯图尔特·布兰德(Stewart Brand),一位受过哈佛教育的年轻博学者,根据作者汤姆·沃尔夫(Tom Wolfe)的说法,他属于“‘快乐恶作剧者’(Merry Pranksters)中克制且深思熟虑的一翼”。

布兰德受到了前几代激进思想家的影响,其中包括诺伯特·维纳(Norbert Weiner)。在 20 世纪 40 年代后期,维纳创造了“控制论”(cybernetics)一词来描述他的理论

()

即无论是人类还是机器驱动的系统,都使用信息循环进行通信。特纳(Turner)解释说,这一形成性的观点塑造了 20 世纪 60 年代反主流文化的某些元素,以及我们现在在网络上生活的数字化互联生活。

“控制论是一种通过通信实现控制的愿景,”特纳说。“它假设世界上的一切都是信号传递之物——我的身体、我的动作、房子,所有的一切。[而且]因为所有这些都是信息系统,它们可以通过 IT 来掌控。所以现在运行计算机的人可能会成为世界的掌控者。”

特纳在书中写道:“布兰德组建了一个由人员和出版物构成的网络,共同促成了波希米亚风格的旧金山与南边新兴的技术中心硅谷之间的一系列接触。”

跨越这两种文化的人之一就是年轻的史蒂夫·乔布斯(Steve Jobs),他是一名 Grateful Dead 的粉丝,后来共同创立了苹果公司,并成为了硅谷技术革命中 perhaps 最具影响力的先驱。2016 年,布兰德在接受采访时表示:“迷幻药物在当时是新鲜事物,所以对我们来说很独特……在史蒂夫·乔布斯的案例中,这些药物绝对具有塑造作用。在他和我谈话的几次机会中,我们会回忆起服用 LSD 的经历……他是宇宙的主宰,但他也曾是个嬉皮士,而且只要有机会就光脚走路。”

凯西(Kesey)和布兰德最初都是在受控的实验室条件下体验 LSD 的。凯西在 1959 年被给予该药物,当时他志愿参加了一个由 CIA 资助的关于迷幻药效果的研究项目。尽管是在临床环境下,他的体验几乎是神圣的。“我们活着,生命就是我们,”他后来回忆道。“我们手牵手在瓦砾中光脚起舞。我们被净化了,被解放了!”

1962 年,布兰德由一个名为国际高级研究基金会(International Foundation for Advanced Study)的组织施药,该组织旨在探索致幻剂的心理影响。根据特纳的说法,在背景音乐播放古典乐时,他被要求观看一幅壁画和一个阴阳曼陀罗。“他们问布兰德感觉如何,”特纳写道,“‘非常具体(Very thing),’他回答道。”

他们截然不同的反应反映了他们相反的性格——一个外向,一个深思——但在 1963 年,布兰德在被其反权威小说《飞越疯人院》(One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest)打动后联系了凯西。不久之后,他与包括加西亚(Garcia)在内的其他志同道合的人一起,成为了凯西家的常客,那座房子位于帕洛阿尔托(Palo Alto)斯坦福大学校园附近——那里现在被认为是硅谷的发源地。

1966 年 1 月,布兰德在旧金山的码头工人大厅(Longshoremen's Hall)组织了一场为期三天的活动,这场活动现在被视为加州反主流文化兴起的关键时刻。该活动被刻意命名为“旅行节”(Trips Festival),并被宣传为一场“对一切的庆祝”,它本质上是一次大规模的 LSD 测试。

从左上角起顺时针方向:史蒂夫·乔布斯曾是 Grateful Dead 乐队的粉丝;一名身在海特-阿什伯里公寓的 Deadhead(乐队死忠粉);1979年的乐队成员。图片来源:Getty Images, Corbis / VCG / Getty Images

约 10,000 人参加了这次活动,活动内容包括 Grateful Dead、Jefferson Airplane 和 Janis Joplin 的现场音乐表演,凯西的朗诵,以及在周六晚上提供的一大盆掺有 LSD 的公共潘趣酒。

这种乌托邦式的时刻并未持续太久。1966年 10 月,LSD 在加利福尼亚州被宣布为非法。次年,在所谓的“爱之夏”期间,地下文化走向公开,但反主流文化已开始出现裂痕,因为数以千计的流浪者、毒贩和离家出走的青少年聚集在海特-阿什伯里。

当琼·迪迪恩 1967年受《星期六晚邮报》指派抵达那里时,安非他命和海洛因的使用量正在上升。她将这座城市视为一个迅速分裂的美国的缩影。她写道:“旧金山,就是社会大出血显现的地方。”

到 1968年春季,即使是 Grateful Dead 也受够了。他们从海特街的集体住宅搬到附近马林县的新基地,并在一辆平板卡车的车厢后部举办了一场免费的告别音乐会以纪念这次搬迁。他们并不是唯一试图离开这座城市以维护反主流文化最初理想的嬉皮士。

在那个狂热时期出现的众多亚文化之一便是“回归土地”运动,其倡导者试图通过在加利福尼亚的森林和山脉中建立自给自足的公社,来保留反主流文化的集体理想主义。与这种世界观最契合的人是布兰德,他在 1968年出版了第一版《全球概览》(Whole Earth Catalog),这是一本关于集体生活、自给自足、生态学和整体生活的资料与资源手册。

为此,《全球概览》优先考虑分享实用信息;例如在哪里采购材料,以及建造生态住宅、挖掘水井或种植食物需要什么工具。布兰德表示,他希望创建一个单一的信息源,使“地球上的任何人都能拿起电话并找到关于

构建原型网页浏览器的巴洛,仿佛预见了未来,共同创立了最早的数字权利组织之一——电子前沿基金会。十年后,他写了一篇开创性的在线宣言,题为《网络空间独立宣言》,这为他赢得了“网络空间的托马斯·杰斐逊”之称。

巴洛进入互联网活动领域的旅程始于 1985年,当时他加入了一个名为“全球电子链接”(Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link)的早期虚拟社区。这个被称为 The Well 的社区由布兰德共同创立,且忠于其根源,具有浓厚的反主流文化元素。其中一个最活跃的论坛是专门讨论 Grateful Dead 乐队的。它吸引了来自各地的 Deadheads 从

他们教会我,你必须慷慨地分享你的内容,让你的社区感到愉悦

📄 外文原文 ↗

“任何事情”。《全球概览目录》(The Whole Earth Catalog)现在被认为是互联网的模拟原型。

布兰德并非唯一一个与感恩死之舞乐队(Grateful Dead)产生交集的早期互联网乌托邦主义者。约翰·佩里·巴洛(John Perry Barlow)是一位毕业于哈佛大学的诗人兼散文家,也是该乐队节奏吉他手鲍勃·韦尔(Bob Weir)的老同学。到1971年巴洛在纽约的一场感恩死之舞乐队演唱会上与韦尔重新取得联系时,他已经与他们的波长同步,因为他曾数百次服用LSD。巴洛和韦尔随后共同创作了几首歌曲,包括《Estimated Prophet》和《Mexicali Blues》,这些歌曲成为了该团体现场演出的主打曲目。

到80年代中期,巴洛已经转向,成为了首批互联网活动人士之一。1990年,当蒂姆·伯纳斯-李(Tim Berners-Lee)在

美国,他们在这里交换新闻、八卦、曲目单以及关于即将到来的演出的信息。

到那时,感恩死之舞乐队在重重困难之中,已成为美国音乐巡演圈中规模最大且收入最高的巡演乐队之一,在全国各地的体育馆和体育场演出场场售罄。他们在70年代初出于经济压力开始不懈地进行演出,因为他们的专辑销量不足。在随后的几年里,他们稳步积累了庞大的粉丝群,其中许多人——即“死头”(Deadheads)——跟随他们从一个城市奔赴另一个城市。

“在1980年到87年之间,死之舞乐队没有发行过任何录音室专辑,但他们的知名度却在不断增长,”他们的官方传记作者丹尼斯·麦克纳利(Dennis McNally)说道。简而言之,该团体单枪匹马地——且在无意中——颠覆了自1960年代以来占据主导地位的传统音乐商业模式,即艺术家发行专辑然后通过巡演来推广。在这样做时,他们再次偶然地预见了当今后流媒体时代的音乐文化,在这种文化中,巡演是主要的经济引擎。正如麦克纳利冷峻地评价道:“这个行业最终认同了死之舞乐队的做法。”

这一切的核心是乐队与“死头”之间的共生关系。从一开始,作为其公社嬉皮原则的延伸,乐队就允许粉丝对他们的演出进行盗版录音。鉴于该团体的演出曲目每晚都不同,且从未两次以同样的方式演奏同一首歌,这些通常由高端设备捕捉的大量非官方录音,现在构成了一个独特的、跨越整个职业生涯的档案,一个乐队的影子历史,比官方专辑更准确地记录了他们的旅程。

在乐队的许可下,这些磁带在粉丝之间交易,随后他们制作副本分发给其他“死头”。这种分享和交换网络是如今在在线音乐论坛中激增的社交网络粉丝文化的先驱。早在1982年,“死头”们就开始聚集在早期的在线讨论组中,例如 net.gdead,后来演变为 rec.music.gdead。你可以认为,从“死头”到如今的“霉粉”(Swifties)之间存在着一种影响的传承。

到80年代末进入90年代,第三波“死头”成为了一种出人意料的文化现象。他们成群结队地聚集在乐队演出的体育馆周围的停车场,售卖他们的商品:扎染T恤、海报和嬉皮首饰,以及LSD和大麻。到那时,许多粉丝是富裕的年轻人,他们负担得起花一个夏天跟随乐队巡演的费用,而乐队对他们而言,代表了关于寓言式社区、归属感和真实性的持久理想。

1987年,该团体凭借单曲《Touch of Grey》获得了他们在美国首个前10名的热门金曲。同年,本和杰瑞(Ben & Jerry's)推出了一款新的冰淇淋口味——樱桃加西亚(Cherry Garcia)。感恩死之舞乐队通过一种潜行与运气相结合的方式,不知不觉地进入了主流视野。

衡量他们走过多远的一个标准是 2010 年出版(并于去年更新)的一本书,名为《来自感恩而死乐队的营销启示》(Marketing Lessons from the Grateful Dead)。该书由布莱恩·哈利根(Brian Halligan)合著,他是一名“Deadhead”(感恩而死乐队死忠粉),并在 2006 年共同创立并曾担任 HubSpot 的首席执行官。HubSpot 是一家成功的软件公司,致力于开发在线营销和销售工具,其估值约为 100亿美元。

他在接受 Radio 4 纪录片采访时表示:“这在一定程度上受到了该乐队的精神特质和策略的影响。他们教会我,你必须在内容上大方,让你的社区感到愉悦,并吸引大量的人加入。另一个关键教训是:不要仅仅把你的客户视为客户。尝试创建一个能够彼此联系的人群社区……共同学习,并以某种方式共同成长。”

正如特纳(Turner)所指出的,60 年代嬉皮士乌托邦主义的激进理念——开放、分享、网络、将技术视为解放——也已成为硅谷精神特质中不可或缺的一部分。然而,在某个阶段,关于一个互联的全球创意文化和信息自由交换的乌托邦愿景,已经变质成了某种阴暗得多的东西。

“人们经常说,曾经有一个真正的互联网,在那里分享是可能的且美好的,然后它被企业巨头所接管,”特纳说。“我非常不认同这一点。我认为牛奶在当时就已经开始变质了。”

在特纳看来,加利福尼亚本身就是一个持久的美国边疆神话的核心元素,而这个神话已被硅谷的“科技兄弟”(tech bros)所挪用。

“如果你看嬉皮士的照片,包括感恩而死乐队,他们经常穿着这些伪西部牛仔服装,”他说。“为什么人们要去公社,表面上是为了构建一种不同类型的以技术为中心的未来,却穿着格子布衣服和牛仔套装?他们是在复制并基于他们成长时的意识形态来构建自己的生活。而这些意识形态正是边疆扩张和殖民主义的意识形态。”

这是一个有趣的理论,因为这些如今被极度放大的相同意识形态,不仅支撑着硅谷的科技边疆文化,还支撑着唐纳德·特朗普对吞并格陵兰岛的明显痴迷,以及埃隆·马斯克殖民火星的任务。

不过,在制作 Radio 4 纪录片过程中最令我震惊的,是某种更加荒诞的东西:这些交织在一起的故事——关于受 LSD 驱动的嬉皮士恶作剧者、乌托邦互联网先驱和当代科技寡头——本质上都是关于“非预期后果定律”的。

例如,60 年代的科技嬉皮士愿景者无法预见到我们数字化现状的企业化和控制性质,或者事实上,无法预见到一个由 AI 驱动且我们能动性下降的充满不确定性的未来。

《全球概览》(The Whole Earth Catalog)现在看来像是一个遥远时代的残余,在那个时代,另一个世界似乎是有可能的。同样,作为一支典型的美国摇滚团体,感恩而死乐队也体现了终极的荒诞讽刺:他们通过顽强地坚持 60 年代嬉皮士的社区理想,不断忽视经理和唱片公司高管的建议,却不知怎么地成功繁荣了——并帮助发明了原子化的数字化未来。

《Archive on 4:感恩而死乐队比披头士更重要》将于 10 月 10 日晚上 8 点在 Radio 4 播出。

网络构建者

你能信任 Meta 的个人助手来管理你的生活吗?

📄 外文原文 ↗

自从 2022 年 11 月 ChatGPT 出现以来,科技行业就很清楚,AI 的未来并非是人们

与聊天机器人进行无休止的对话。其核心原因在于,对于公司而言,与大语言模型(LLMs)对话是一场亏本的噩梦,因为每一次交互都需要大量昂贵的计算资源。因此,对于像麦肯锡(McKinsey)这样的机构来说,AI 盈利的未来在于“智能体”(agents)——能够代表你采取行动的自主 AI。你给它们分配任务,允许它们访问所需的任何资源,然后让它们自行处理。

去年 11 月,一名居住在加利福尼亚州的奥地利程序员彼得·斯坦伯格(Peter Steinberger)就创建了这样一个智能体。他将其命名为 OpenClaw,并将其作为开源(非专利)软件发布。它可以通过 Claude 或 ChatGPT 等大语言模型,执行用户分配的任务。基本上,它就是一个基于 AI 的虚拟助手。

OpenClaw 在编程社区引起了相当大的轰动。例如,Meta 超级智能实验室(Meta Superintelligence Labs)的高级人物纳特·弗里德曼(Nat Friedman)对此印象极其深刻,以至于他订购了数百台苹果 Mac mini 并分发给同事,以便他们能够试用这款软件。而这些同事同样被其吸引,这或许在预料之中,因为他们都是极客,对于他们来说,运行 OpenClaw 简直是小菜一碟。

然而,普通人并非如此,他们发现安装这类软件极具挑战性。“如果你不懂如何运行命令行,”一名极客观察到,“这个项目对你来说太危险,无法安全使用。”因此,Meta 团队着手构建一个类似于 OpenClaw 但能确保安全、可靠且易于使用,并能面向数十亿人规模推广的产品。他们将其命名为 Muse。

Meta 在 8 September 将其推出,称其为“全球首款为所有人打造的个人 AI 智能体”。它吹嘘道:“任何人都可以开箱即用,无需技术经验。它可以处理发送电子邮件或预订行程等任务,并且可以承担宏大且大胆的目标……它可以打开浏览器,填写表格,

[...OMITTED...]

我在读什么

📄 外文原文 ↗

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鹰眼

AI:一场非常人性化的悲剧。特里·伊格尔顿(Terry Eagleton)关于 AI 的(风趣的)写作。

黑暗之心

AI 启示录。历史学家尼尔·弗格森(Niall Ferguson)对 AI 危险性的看法。

并且代表[您]进行协商。”而且一旦您给它分配了任务,即使您关闭了应用程序,它也会继续运行。只有在情况发生变化或需要批准时——例如在发送电子邮件或进行购买之前——它才会返回向您汇报。后一项任务是由 Onelink 实现的,这是一个由在线支付处理器 Stripe 建立的服务,允许您为您的代理设置一个数字钱包。

为了使这一切成为可能,Meta 指出 Muse 可以访问一个人跨类别的应用程序,例如

电子邮件、日历、支付、健康、购物等等。用户选择它连接哪些应用程序,并可以随时撤销访问权限。

媒体对该应用程序的初步反应呈现出一种滑稽的矛盾感。《华尔街日报》的一篇标题写道:“我试用了 Meta 的 Muse AI 代理,它既有用又可怕……您移交的数据越多,这个才华横溢的私人助手能为您做的事情就越多。”TechRadar 的评论者也表达了同样的观点:“它极其有用,但将我的数字生活交给它让我感到深深的不适。对我生活拥有如此大的权力需要受到监督。”

确实如此。但与此同时,Muse 应用程序在苹果 App Store 的下载量排名 No 1,这表明我们可能正在进入一个奇怪的领域。毕竟,要使用 Muse,您必须将一些非常私人的个人数据委托给一家在不可信方面有着惊人记录的公司。例如,最近该公司支付了高达 180亿美元 来解决一起诉讼,在该诉讼中,它被指控使用危险产品使儿童上瘾并造成伤害。

如果 Muse 最终真的取得了巨大的成功,这说明了我们什么?这是否反映了蒂姆·吴(Tim Wu)的洞察,即“便利是当今世界上被最严重低估且最不被理解的力量”?或者我们正走向托克维尔所担忧的“软专制”——那种提供人们所需并管理其事务,最终使他们“免于思考之劳,免于生活之苦”的权力?而这正是科技巨头现在所拥有的权力。

访谈

洛娜·辛普森的蓝色时期

📄 外文原文 ↗

这位先驱摄影师是首位在纽约现代艺术博物馆(MoMa)举办个展的非裔美国女性。她向卡迪什·莫里斯讲述了她早年与种族主义的遭遇、她后期那些色彩斑斓的作品,以及她如何通过拼贴和星座式布局构建一个黑人历史档案。

洛娜·辛普森六岁时,在一位好友家中偶然看到一本名为《运动》(The Movement)的纪实摄影集。这位66岁的艺术家说:“这是一本关于美国民权时代以及美国南部三 K 党恐吓黑人的书。”她之前已经熟悉这本书——她的父母就有一本,她曾和母亲一起翻阅过几次。然而,在这一次特定的场合中,她仔细观察其中一张照片,并第一次理解了自己所看到的内容。“那是一个被吊在树上并被焚烧的黑人男子的尸体,”辛普森说,“我记得非常清晰,先是看到一张我不完全理解的图像,然后再次独自看到它,没有成年人在场,也没有人为我讲述。那非常有冲击力。”

尽管那张黑白照片令人心碎,但辛普森认为,在好友客厅的安全环境下,按照自己的节奏面对种族主义的残暴是一件很有价值的事。“这是一种非常珍贵的方式,而不是在街上被某人地面对抗,虽然这种情况在后来确实发生了,”辛普森在纽约通过 Zoom 告诉我,“在公共场合或学校的某个时刻,你总会遭遇种族主义。你会看到那些恶毒的言论。”

辛普森的作品以其独特的方式具有冲击力。她的概念摄影——由搜集到的图像和绘画组成的拼贴画——以极具探究性的方式探讨种族、性别和代表性。她对废弃新闻摄影、碎片化人物和精心构思的色调的使用被描述为具有先驱意义,既唤起威胁感又唤起赋权感,并模糊了现实与虚构之间的界限。对于一名黑人艺术家来说,辛普森的职业生涯十分罕见,因为她在早期就达到了极高的高度,在职业生涯的第一个十年内,就在纽约现代艺术博物馆和惠特尼美国艺术博物馆等主要机构举办了个展。1990年,她成为首批在威尼斯双年展参展的非裔美国女性之一。

在即将于伦敦豪瑟沃斯画廊(Hauser and Wirth London)举办的展览《过往与进行时》(Previous & Ongoing)中,辛普森在离开英国八年后回归,通过一次大规模的回顾展展示其创作实践中不同媒介之间的共生关系。一如既往地,作品中包含着对过去的深刻回归,许多作品根植于令人不安的纪实摄影和灾难符号,从烟柱到枪伤。动物出现在她的新拼贴画中,这标志着她脱离了以往习惯于以黑人男女面孔为中心的构图。“有一幅画是一个女人在海滩上,戴着一个老虎吉祥物头套,穿着比基尼。就像在许多的

Donavon Smallwood 绘制的肖像

📄 外文原文 ↗

上方为在纽约工作室拍摄的 Lorna Simpson,下方为 2026's Vista。

拼贴画中,我用星空取代了皮肤。”

Simpson 还以其震撼的大规模摄影与文字结合作品而闻名,这些作品探讨了历史记忆、公众形象、个人身份与集体创伤之间的关系。相同的基调反复出现,其中头发是最主导的元素之一。尽管如此,她在处理像假发这样简单的物品时展现出一种动态特质,将其转化为对欧洲审美标准政治性的坚定评论。在作品《Wigs II》(1994–2006)中,50 多个图像面板展示了挂在墙上的假发,有些配有如“假发产生了预期的效果”之类的说明文字。Simpson 对黑人女性特质和媒体的长期关注,也体现在一系列拼贴画中,在这些作品中,她重新利用了曾属于她祖母的《Ebony》和《Jet》杂志中的图像。

她用精致的丙烯笔触装饰面孔和头发,将其转化为超现实主义的形态。她对这些杂志的美学感兴趣,但同样关注它们在社会层面为非裔美国读者所代表的意义。“它不像《生活》(Life)杂志那样在产品方面面向白人观众。它是[与黑人之间]的亲密对话。”

Simpson 1960, 出生于纽约布鲁克林,父亲是一位牙买加-古巴裔社会工作者,母亲是一位在医院担任秘书的非裔美国人。她的父母在很小的时候就让她接触艺术,带她去博物馆和剧院。“我的父母在政治上非常活跃,”她说。他们允许她阅读任何她想读的东西——成人书和儿童书之间没有区分。“这就是我接触理解能力,并尝试作为读者去定位作者声音的开端。”

Simpson 很早就涉足摄影。她在攒够了舒洁(Kleenex)纸巾盒上的优惠券后,买到了一台拍立得相机。随后她在纽约视觉艺术学院学习绘画和摄影,她发现那里并非没有缺陷。“我在纽约接受的教育非常狭隘且白人化,”Simpson 说。她通过在下东区闲逛、出入俱乐部、在哈莱姆工作室博物馆实习以及参观黑人艺术家的展览找到了真正的灵感。“‘Just Above Midtown’是由 Linda Goode Bryant 创办的一个非营利空间,展出了像 Terry Adkins 和 David Hammons 这样极其优秀的艺术家。那些在处理物体和语言方面具有真正概念化方法的展览让我着迷。”

“与其惯常构图的不同”:上方为《Tiger with Star Spots》,右侧为 Constellation, 2026, 该作在佳士得以 $254,000. 成交。Lorna Simpson 2026 / James Wang

在这些年里,Simpson 游历了北非和欧洲,形成了自己的风格和美学。

她最早的一些摄影作品受到了她在意大利看到女性穿着的白色直筒连衣裙的启发。这种连衣裙成为了一个基调:创作于 1986年的《Waterbearer》描绘了一名穿着此类连衣裙的黑人女性,正从水壶和瓶子中倒水。下方配有说明文字:“她看着他在河边消失。他们要求她讲述发生了什么。结果却否定了她的记忆。”这成为了她最著名的作品之一。

“我只是想探讨我们这个社会在性别和性取向方面有多僵化,以及黑人群体在多大程度上被针对且处于弱势,”她说。“公共空间是危险的,与此同时,即便在私人住宅的私密空间里,自我的构建也遭受着攻击。或者,一个人所使用的语言也受到监管。”

到 80 年代中期,辛普森在艺术界获得了广泛关注。她的首次个展于 1986 年在 Just Above Midtown 画廊开幕,随后于 1990 年在现代艺术博物馆(MoMA)举办展览。这是该博物馆首次举办黑人女性的个展。尽管如此,早期的许多成功让辛普森感到惊讶,这并非因为她对自己的作品缺乏信心,而是因为在学习期间,她的作品被误解得太深。“你甚至不知道(英国摄影师)大卫·汉密尔顿,那么你怎么能察觉到我在做什么?”她说。“我的经历和接触到的东西与周围的人截然不同。”

这就是为什么在 1993 年,当已故的女性主义理论家和文化评论家贝尔·胡克斯(bell hooks)在《Artforum》杂志上撰文讨论《Waterbearer》,称其为“一幅关于宁静、关于存在、关于与对立历史达成和解的肖像”时,辛普森感到自己真正被看见和听到了。“你会与作家和其他艺术家就作品展开极妙的对话,这将揭示出一些你甚至从未考虑过的事情,”她

作为一名年轻艺术家,最重要的事情是了解你自己的内心,了解你的语言是什么

📄 外文原文 ↗

她说:“这不是关于控制,即每个人都必须认同我对作品的看法,而是对话需要具有洞察力,而不是带有种族主义或混乱的。”

与她的概念摄影作品相呼应的是她的巨幅绘画。Simpson决定在2014年探索这一媒介,并开始创作风格抽象、规模宏大的作品,其中充满了闪烁的蓝色调;这些蓝色灵感源自大海、北极、夜空,以及靛蓝的种植(一种由奴隶劳工耕种的作物),乃至蓝调音乐。“我有这么多非常出色的画家朋友。开始尝试时有点尴尬,”她坦言。她在寻找新媒介节奏的不适感中坚持了下来,最终创作出了一些她最大胆的作品。她的探索也恰逢其时,因为当时她的密友、已故的奥奎·恩韦佐(Okwui Enwezor)正在策划第56届威尼斯双年展。“是他给了我机会展示我一直在创作的绘画作品。”

Simpson在纽约和洛杉矶两地居住,并确保在高强度工作之间进行休息。“有家人,并且与女儿保持良好的关系,我觉得非常幸运,”她说。“最好的创意来自于暂时将其搁置……强迫自己创作对我来说并不总是奏效。”

她意识到当今的新兴艺术家面临着他们自己的压力。“现在的艺术世界与我25岁时截然不同,”她说。“作为一名年轻

人,最重要的事情是了解你自己的内心。你的语言是什么。能够观察创意是如何产生,以及你如何在理智和概念上执行它们。”

Simpson的职业生涯跨越了五个十年,她在豪瑟沃斯(Hauser and Wirth)的展览将展示她的作品集是多么深厚且广泛;她如何理解自己的黑人身份、女性身份和美国身份,以及为什么她被认为是美国最具开创性的艺术家之一。近期的成功包括她的作品《星座》(Constellation)在佳士得以$254,000的价格成交,是预估价的两倍,以及她为芝加哥新开幕的巴拉克·奥巴马总统中心所做的贡献。但与艺术发现相比,赞誉对Simpson来说意义不大。作品才是她价值所在。“我必须以极其谦卑的态度来创作我的作品。”

《Previous & Ongoing》展览将在伦敦豪瑟沃斯展出至12月23日

歌唱的修女

📄 外文原文 ↗

12世纪的神秘主义者

宾根的希尔德加德(Hildegard of Bingen)

在恩万多·埃比齐(Nwando Ebizie)的

多感官神秘歌剧及

双年展装置艺术中获得颂扬

菲奥娜·马多克斯(Fiona Maddocks)

“催眠般的音乐、舞蹈和肢体动作展现出了自身的生命力”:恩万多·埃比齐的《美德的狂喜》(Ecstasy of the Virtues)。克莱尔·肖夫尔顿(Claire Shovelton)摄。

《美德的狂喜》(Ecstasy of the Virtues)

伦敦 W1,Stone Nest

《耳是灵魂之眼》(The Ear Is the Eye of the Soul)

威尼斯双年展,Giardino Mistico

《托斯卡》(Tosca)

牛津,新剧院(New Theatre)

我们被敦促携带疗愈草药作为祭品。现场将喷洒玫瑰香水的薄雾。我们将共同参与极油礼(extreme unction)的仪式。我对草药和疗愈的热情是无限的,但我不擅长观众参与,也不太喜欢被喷水。因此,我对恩万多·埃比齐的《美德的狂喜》首演感到紧张。这是一部多感官神秘歌剧,灵感来自12世纪修女宾根的希尔德加德(1098-1179)的一生、音乐和幻象。我看过几场以希尔德加德为灵感的演出,其中一场包括人们穿着修女服切生蔬菜。这次的演出会属于那种令人难忘的类别吗?

演出在 Stone Nest 举行,这是伦敦西区的一座前威尔士礼拜堂(随后于周六移至利兹,周三移至巴罗-因-弗内斯)。这座充满氛围感且不事奢华的建筑已成为一个以挑战为优先的艺术场馆。人们很容易嘲笑那些让你坐在豆袋沙发或瑜伽球上,并在中场休息时提供面包和祝福的活动。但这却是一场无法被定义、且拥有极美时刻的演出。在最初的惊讶——发生了什么,这些人是谁?——之后,催眠般的音乐、舞蹈和肢体动作展现出了自身的生命力。

埃比齐出生于尼日利亚,在奥尔德姆长大,她是 2025 年保罗·哈姆林作曲奖(Paul Hamlyn composer award)的获得者,并曾是约克郡雕塑公园的驻场艺术家。她将自己描述为一名“神经多样性的非裔幻想主义者”(neurodivergent Afrofabulist),从她作为非洲裔散居者的视角创作故事。她的音乐汲取了尼日利亚传统,以及巴西、非裔加勒比、波斯和西方古典音乐。希尔德加德的听觉或言语碎片被编织进埃比齐自己的音乐和剧本中。

希尔德加德在 2012 年被封圣,她并没有使用过“殖民危机”或“他们巨大的阴茎”这类词组,但文本的大部分内容在她的广泛神秘主义著作和空灵的单线圣咏中十分熟悉。她的道德剧《美德之序》(Ordo Virtutum),讲述了恶魔争夺灵魂的斗争,是创作的起点。这部作品经历了漫长的孕育期。(我在封锁期间就这个项目与埃比齐交谈过,因为她读过我写的一本关于希尔德加德的书。)她保留了剧作的部分元素,同时将恶魔变成了代表“自我厌恶”的有角形象(由日本出生的聋人表演艺术家兼英国手语指南千里南村饰演),反映了我们内心的心魔。

四位“美德”穿着不同颜色的蓬蓬裙,像华丽的硬糖一样(服装由波莉·西蒙设计),拥有不同的音乐身份:格蕾丝·尼扬多罗(Grace Nyandoro)是一位歌剧抒情女高音,而塞万妮·霍罗克斯-霍派安(Cevanne Horrocks-Hopayian)则是一位歌手兼竖琴手。她与多才多艺的歌手劳拉·鲍勒(Laura Bowler)和伊法特·索尔·齐索(Yfat Soul Zisso)同时也是作曲家。伊朗歌手兼演员萨拉·阿米尼(Sara Amini)包裹在白色纱布的茧中,随后浸入水浴之中,在饰演“灵魂 / 希尔德加德”时令人不安且极具说服力。她们与这支由歌手和舞者组成的小型团体一起,构成了一类新型的跨学科表演者。她们汲取全球所有可能的资源,在“古典音乐”概念之内和之外进行表演。她们促使我们重新思考。

人们很容易嘲笑那些让你坐在豆袋沙发或瑜伽球上,并在中场休息时提供面包和祝福的活动

希尔德加德也出现在今年的威尼斯双年展中,主题为“耳是灵魂之眼”,由伦敦蛇形画廊的汉斯·乌尔里希·奥布里斯特(Hans Ulrich Obrist)和本·维克ers(Ben Vickers)策划,并由梵蒂冈委约。其核心元素是“神秘花园”(Giardino Mistico)——灵感源自“宾根的圣希尔德加德的生命与遗产”。当你戴着耳机走在碎石小径上时,耳边会响起由布莱恩·伊诺(Brian Eno)、梅雷迪思·蒙克(Meredith Monk)、特里·赖利(Terry Riley)、帕蒂·史密斯(Patti Smith)和普雷舍斯·奥科约蒙(Precious Okoyomon)等作曲家委约创作的声景音乐。

如果有人拿枪顶着我的头,我也不能绝对肯定自己能否认出其中的希尔德加德灵感,但正如教皇利奥十四世去年所说(引用自节目单):“算法的逻辑倾向于重复‘有效’的东西,但艺术则开启了可能性。并非所有事物都必须是即时的或可预测的。”完全正确。

相比之下,普契尼的《托斯卡》是即时的——嘈杂、暴力、令人心潮澎湃——但并非可预测,即便你知道她最终会跳楼。这部剧谱在每一次聆听时都能带来新的启示。牛津国际歌剧团在由马里奥斯·帕帕多普洛斯(Marios Papadopoulos)指挥的首演制作中,迎来了一场星光熠熠的告别:布林·特费尔(Bryn Terfel)自2006年起一直饰演好色警长斯卡皮亚这一角色。他说,这将是他最后一次饰演该角色。在饰演托斯卡的卡门·吉安纳塔西奥(Carmen Giannattasio)和饰演卡瓦拉多西的赛米尔·皮尔古(Saimir Pirgu)这对优雅组合的陪伴下,特费尔展现了他对这个最卑劣角色的冷静掌控,嗓音依然浑厚,在低调且简约的舞台布置中占据主导地位。附近有人问,牛津需要一个歌剧团吗?如果能提供这种水准的歌手,为什么还要抱怨?

家庭聆听

📄 外文原文 ↗

CD、广播及在线古典音乐

Women and the Piano,苏珊·汤姆斯(Susan Tomes)著(Hyperion)。钢琴家兼学者苏珊·汤姆斯在成长过程中,从未有意识地演奏过任何女性作曲家的音乐。几十年后,她就这一主题写了一本书——《女性与钢琴:50个人生的历史》(Women and the Piano: A History in 50 Lives),并发现了她此前从未接触过的作品。

在她为 Hyperion 录制的新专辑中,她分享了研究成果,收录了十几位作曲家的作品。芬妮·门德尔松(Fanny Mendelssohn)和克拉拉·舒曼(Clara Schumann)依然是最为人熟知的。(本月还将出版一本关于舒曼的新书,由莎拉·弗里茨(Sarah Fritz)撰写,名为《作曲家夫人》(Madame Composer)。)美国人艾米·比奇(Amy Beach)也较为出名,她是大型管弦乐作品创作的先驱。法国贵族埃莱娜-安托瓦内特-玛丽·德·内尔沃·德·蒙热鲁尔(Hélène-Antoinette-Marie de Nervo de Montgeroult,1764-1836)和委内瑞拉人特蕾莎·卡雷尼奥(Teresa Carreño,1853-1917)近期受到了关注,但其他人仍处于被忽视的状态。

汤姆斯以灵动、优雅且多变的技巧演奏这些短篇作品,但这种集中呈现方式反而让我们意犹未尽。此时提及多内基金会(Donne Foundation)上周公布的 figures 十分及时:数据显示,17 位作曲家(全部为男性)占据了所有节目单音乐的 50.2%。仅贝多芬的音乐就占 5%——比所有女性作曲家的总和还要多。我非常支持贝多芬,可能也支持构成这些数字的其他 16 位男性作曲家,而且我可以猜到他们是谁。但这确实是一种相当严重的不平等。多内基金会正竭尽全力地唤醒音乐家和音乐会管理者的良知。

塞德里克·索普·戴维:管弦乐第一卷(Cedric Thorpe Davie: Orchestral Music, Volume One)(Toccata Classics)。被忽视的程度简直没有底线。我怀疑去年除了圣安德鲁斯大学(Cedric Thorpe Davie 在 1945 年成为该校教授并建立了一个重要的音乐系)之外,没有任何地方演奏过塞德里克·索普·戴维(1913-1983)的一部作品(如有误请指正)。最重要的是,戴维是一位高产的电影配乐作曲家,尤其是在 20 世纪 50 年代的电影鼎盛时期,他还创作了许多音乐会作品:他是 20 世纪中期苏格兰音乐复兴的关键人物。Toccata Classics 本身就是一个辉煌且特立独行的宝库,专门收录那些略为人知、几乎不为人知以及完全不为人知的作品,该公司发行了戴维的管弦乐第一卷,由圣安德鲁斯室内管弦乐团在比德·威廉姆斯(Bede Williams)的指挥下出色地演绎。其音乐令人振奋且直接。是时候将戴维重新带回大众视野了。菲奥娜·马多克斯(Fiona Maddocks)

解放利伯拉切

📄 外文原文 ↗

西蒙·罗素·比尔在一部奇异且深情的全新戏剧中,以出人意料的精彩表演,试图剥开这位钢琴家人格面具下的层层外壳

苏珊娜·克拉普

《我将见你》(I'll Be Seeing You)

皮特洛克里节日剧院;展出至10月11日

他带着一种巨大的傲慢登场。西蒙·罗素·比尔从舞台后方走入一间模糊的阁楼式房间,身上披着一件长长的金色斗篷,像翅膀一样垂在手臂上,胸前穿着一件闪闪发光的背心,胸脯挺起。随后,他将蜷缩在一件巨大的鸵鸟羽毛大衣和一条极小的闪光短裤中。他饰演的是利伯拉切——这位钢琴家的服装与他的和弦一样出名;在20世纪50年代至70年代的成名巅峰期,他是全球收入最高的演艺人员。他用亮片装点着自己的柴可夫斯基和布吉伍吉舞曲。

马丁·舍曼的这部新剧是艾伦·卡明在极出色的皮特洛克里节日剧院策划的璀璨季的一部分:接下来的剧目包括《快乐时光》(Happy Days)和《窈窕淑女》(My Fair Lady)。这部由卡明和本·奥基平蒂共同导演的演出,也属于当前对那些构建闪耀人格之人的浓厚关注的一部分:比如聪明的多莉·帕顿在打造她那喧闹的魅力;芭芭拉·卡特兰在构建一个虚构的自我,正如马修·斯威特的传记中所剖析的那样。与他们一样,利伯拉切很清楚自己在做什么。

舍曼最著名的作品是1979年的剧作《弯曲》(Bent),该剧聚焦于纳粹德国对同性恋者的迫害,但在本作中他并未采取直接切入的方式。他通过一个年轻作家的角色来传达戏剧冲突——该角色由精力充沛、肌肉发达的弗拉·费饰演——他

受命写一部关于利伯拉切的剧本。但他并不喜欢利伯拉切。这种浮夸且抢眼的表演风格是原因之一,但主要原因在于他认为利伯拉切缺乏诚实。利伯拉切拒绝承认自己是同性恋。1959年,他起诉《每日镜报》的专栏作家卡桑德拉诽谤。那次攻击措辞刻薄且流畅,就像利伯拉切本人一样充满兰花般的华丽,他被描述为一个“致命的、眨眼的、窃笑的、依偎的、镀铬的、浸满香水的、发光的、颤抖的、咯咯笑的、水果味的、拿腔拿调的、覆盖着冰层的母爱之堆”。

这是一个真正有趣的案例,因为其中至少一半的形容词本身并非贬义,而仅仅是因为它们暗示了同性恋。这些特质的反面是否更可取并非显而易见:即世界是否需要更多臭烘烘的、穿着阴沉、呆板且严肃的男人。利伯拉切赢了。在他生命的大部分时间里,当同性恋被归类为非法时,他一直在表演;而在他的整个生命周期中,这个话题一直被

“表演和假装显然就是他的全部”:西蒙·罗素·比尔在皮特洛克里节日剧院的《我将见你》中饰演利伯拉切;下方与弗拉·费合影。摄影:Tiu Makkonen

以极端的谨慎对待。当迈克尔·帕金森在1973年采访他时,帕金森提到人们可能会对他产生“错误的看法”。利伯拉切平静且心领神会地回答道:“很有可能。”

在舍曼的剧中,他相当精妙地为自己没有公开出柜辩护,称他并没有隐藏真实的自我:表演和假装显然就是他的全部。随后,他反过来指责那位作者(即他自己),利伯拉切说,作者并没有说实话:他并不年轻,也不健壮。此时,剧作从轻快奇异转向深情。弗拉·费退场,现实生活中的剧作家登场。87岁的舍曼完成了他的舞台首秀:严肃、沉稳、穿着朴素,他对利伯拉切持怀疑态度,但同时也对他生命中纯粹的眩晕感心怀敬畏。在一个非同寻常的结尾时刻,年迈的剧作家将头靠在钢琴家的肩膀上,而他的手悄悄环绕在对方闪闪发光的腰间。

剧情轻快:一些超现实的臆测场景,母亲们在织钢琴键盘,一些性爱嬉戏,一些作家的焦虑——而作家的焦虑永远不像他们自己认为的那样有趣。缺乏强烈的驱动力,但却有一系列令人难忘的意象。罗素·比尔(Russell Beale)——在《戴高乐:抵抗》(De Gaulle: Résistance)中饰演身着塞壬套装的丘吉尔时表现得如此低沉有力——精湛地模仿了那种撇嘴的神情、眉头微蹙以及手指的颤动。一些坎普风(camp)的矫揉造作对他来说轻而易举:他有时看起来像自己的木偶,就像利伯拉塞(Liberace)经常看起来像是在对着自己的微笑微笑一样。然而,他也能带来出人意料的精彩表现。据说利伯拉塞并不是一个很出色的歌手,但身为音乐人的罗素·比尔在轻唱剧名曲时,能将你带入一个共同的梦境。

蒂姆·哈特利(Tim Hatley)——一位通常奉行“越多越好”主义的设计师——是利伯拉塞这个人物形象的共同创造者,他理所当然地在舞台上和演员身上堆砌了大量物品。一辆银色汽车配有一名衣着清凉的司机。随从们穿着印有钢琴键盘图案的 T 恤:当他们弯腰时,罗素·比尔一边对着观众眨眼,一边谈论指法的重要性,同时像弹钢琴一样地弹奏他们——并将手伸向一两个私密部位。这完全无视了距离高地剧院(Highlands theatre)几分钟路程处的一块告示牌,上面写着:“禁止露营(No Camping)”。

艺术

海湾守望

📄 外文原文 ↗

一场由法国艺术家在南部生活期间获得灵感的闪耀展览,与国家美术馆中雷诺阿那些平淡的情侣相比,提供了纯粹的视觉享受

劳拉·卡明 (Laura Cumming)

绘制法国里维埃拉 (Painting the French Riviera)

伦敦 W1,皇家艺术学院;展至

2027年1月31日

雷诺阿与爱 (Renoir and Love)

伦敦 WC2,国家美术馆;展至

1月31日

皇家艺术学院现在正值盛夏,且在阴郁的隆冬时节也将如此。从未有过一部大展能如此可靠地旨在振奋精神。《绘制法国里维埃拉》拥有塞尚那被晒成赤陶色的悬崖和莫奈那玫瑰金色的海滩。它拥有西尼亚克的珊瑚色海岸线和马蒂斯的炽热猩红沙滩。波纳尔的酒店房间在海湾上方闪烁着黄光,而海湾在接连不断的画作中,从灼热的蓝色和橙色升温至深粉色:这种色彩强度足以温暖双手与心灵。

毕竟,这正是许多法国艺术家最初前往南部的原因。雷诺阿患有关节炎,马蒂斯患有支气管炎,亨利-埃德蒙·克罗斯患有慢性风湿病。地中海的热量就是良药。莫奈在1884年乘坐新的加来-尼斯快车前往那里休息三周,结果停留了数月,被他称之为“如仙境般”的空气所迷住。西尼亚克在为叙拉的猝死而悲痛时,于1892年乘坐自己的游艇前往里维埃拉。波纳尔于1909年在那里与他相遇,最终买了一栋房子并再未离开。

南部不仅是一个真实的地点,更成为了心中一个精神之所。当然,这里有可辨识的特征。在西尼亚克的点彩画点阵中,海天之间闪烁的地平线被精准地衡量。海湾的曲线与酒店阳台的卷涡形装饰相呼应。棕榈树是法国里维埃拉无可争议的象征,从始至终锚定了整个场景。

但在某种程度上,所有这些愿景都是一种熟练的欺骗——至少是一种虚构。地中海的阳光将那片海岸上所有事物的颜色都漂白了。诚然,九重葛在深沉的阴影中闪现出深红色,桅杆、风帆和泳装有时会从刺眼的白色空气中迸发出来。但在这次展览中你看到的并非某种

增强的现实主义;而是现代艺术在自我创造。

第一幅画是塞尚伟大的《浴者》之一,这是一个经典且永恒的主题。他在蓝绿色的阿卡迪亚中描绘的裸体人物在画布上像动画一样颤动和振动。近看莫奈,他开始用矢量笔触勾勒海岸线,画笔的节奏搅动着热气。他的安蒂布海湾在黎明时分像一场橘色的梦幻般漂浮;到了傍晚,它在消融,前景的树木使半幅画面变暗。沿岸被阳光漂白的文蒂米利亚小镇是薰衣草色、粉色和蓝色的颤动——莫奈称之为“钻石与珠宝的调色盘”。他认为这可能会令人震惊,尽管到如今,它已经像皇家艺术学院的所有其他周边商品一样安全了。

莫奈和许多来自北部的艺术家一样,被里维埃拉迷住了。“它如此美丽,如此明亮……人们在蓝色的空气中游泳。”令人惊讶的是,在这些艺术作品中,元素实际上呈现蓝色的情况竟如此罕见。诚然,杜菲打开酒店的百叶窗,正对着戛纳海湾那灼热的钴蓝色,但马蒂斯和德兰正在将色彩从现实中解放出来,使得黄色和红色的色块可以代表任何东西——太阳、海洋或沙滩——以表达纯粹的狂喜。

里维埃拉让每个人都变得愉快,甚至包括策展人所称的“局外人”:在纳粹统治下选择流亡的德国表现主义者马克斯·贝克曼,尽管他的棕榈树投下了紧张的阴影。甚至包括焦虑的查伊姆·苏廷,他的海边风景角度摇晃,但阳光充足得不像他的其他任何作品。甚至包括有自杀倾向的法俄混血艺术家尼古拉斯·德·斯塔埃尔,他抽象的海景由活泼的紫色和朱红色水平条纹构成(尽管如果海洋和天空不是内在的抽象,那它们又是什么呢?)。

最令人震惊的是,对于任何习惯于布拉克立体主义时期严峻灰色调的人来说,他在里维埃拉绘制的那些欢快画作尤为惊人。船只在彩虹色中起伏,海滩呈现出野兽派的明亮,而炙热的地面由金色的短线组成,仿佛下方的空白画布正承载着地球核心的热量。

这次展览中出现了一些真正平庸的波纳尔作品,在那些笨拙的叶簇与色彩的迷雾中,眼睛无法找到视觉落点。我希望自己从未见过皮卡比亚笔下

左图,莫奈的《安提比的早晨》,1888, “像一场柑橘色的梦幻般漂浮”。费城艺术博物馆:夏洛特·多兰斯·赖特遗赠,1978-1-22

下图,伊夫·克莱因的《ANT 84, 1960,》是展览中“许多惊喜”之一。2026 Succession Yves Klein c / o ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London

在戛纳跨年时瞪大眼睛亲吻的人们。而毕加索则被赋予了惯常的尊崇地位,毫无争议地占据了巨大的中央展厅。

但这里有许多惊喜,尤其是最后出现的伊夫·克莱因。出生于尼斯的克莱因在 19, 时的第一次达达主义表演包括在天空上“签名”,仿佛那浓烈的蓝色属于他自己;而这种情况后来在深群青色的“国际克莱因蓝”(IKB)中成为了现实,他将该颜料的制造工艺和配方在法国注册为专利。两块浸染该颜色的海绵看起来像外星树木,旁边两块涂有国际克莱因蓝的面板足以与任何普罗旺斯的天空相媲美。

文化俱乐部

📄 外文原文 ↗

“在蓝绿色的阿卡迪亚中,人物在颤抖与震动”:上方为保罗·塞尚的《浴者》,1890-92年。圣路易斯艺术博物馆。

描绘里维埃拉(Riviera)是对视觉的抚慰,且旨在提供娱乐。在接近结尾的部分,出现了三位在沿海公路上的演员——加里·格兰特、格蕾丝·凯利和莫伊拉·希尔勒的电影片段;而任何对其中部分画作看起来像广告而心存异议的人,可能会惊讶地发现,从马蒂斯到毕加索,这些艺术家在最后一个展厅中确实创作了那些旅游海报。

这里没有任何关于如今主导许多艺术展的政治暗示。例如,你不会了解到雷诺阿可能是公开的反犹主义者,或者西尼亚克是一个无政府共产主义者,其海滨场景《在和谐时代》是一部乌托邦宣传作品。这里的重点是纯粹的视觉愉悦。至于这一切灵感源自一条如今连电影明星都几乎负担不起的海岸线,则无关紧要。

本次展览中有四幅雷诺阿的作品;如果你还想看更多,可以去国家美术馆看《雷诺阿与爱》。丰满的裸体,松弛且无骨;面色红润的卖花女;与爱人共舞、甜美微笑的金发女郎。到处都是女孩,温顺且良善,没有一丝深度或个性。

著名的作品悉数在场:在《煎饼磨坊的舞会》中阳光斑驳的舞蹈,巴黎人在奇怪的、没有下雨的雨伞下 beaming(笑容灿烂)。重点在于“爱”,考虑到雷诺阿几乎不画其他东西,这种强调似乎完全没有必要。有一次半心半意的尝试,暗示船上的两个女孩可能是女同性伴侣,还有一张模糊的玫瑰图,是留给剧院包厢里某人的——但是谁?——但基本上所有内容都被直白地揭示了。

这里最糟糕的一幅画将雷诺阿的女友描绘成一个裸体后宫女,呈现在观众面前。说明文字称她甚至可能怀孕。很难将此与他那幅消瘦且焦虑的自画像联系起来,其眼上的皱眉线像感叹号一样。但同样难以理解的是,他如何能用大量深紫色和群青色的斑点,毁掉他画作中那种柔软且如珍珠般温润的色调。

主题每次都能证明艺术的合理性,或者说雷诺阿是这么认为的。“我知道很难让人承认一幅画既可以是伟大的,”他宣称,“同时又是快乐的。”但快乐并非问题的核心。被误称为《大浴者》的作品展示了水边三个青春裸体。构图的支点在于一个挺立的乳头。一方面,这是软色情;但从其模糊、污迹和脱毛的粉色皮肤来看,它也完全是庸俗艺术(kitsch)。

建筑

粗粝的魔力

📄 外文原文 ↗

这座耗资 670 万英镑 的东伦敦边缘剧院改造工程,保留了原建筑那种前卫且即兴的精神

Rowan Moore

The Yard

伦敦 E9,哈克尼威克(Hackney Wick)

Peter Salter:图纸展

伦敦 W4,AA 艺术馆;展至 5 December

当一个自发的、充满创意且零资金的表演空间变成一个设备更齐全、规模更宏大、更永久的场馆时,往往存在某种风险。它可能会失去那种在几乎一无所有的情况下通过即兴发挥而产生的能量与锋芒;它可能会被营业额和物流的需求所淹没,或者被舒适感所窒息。

这就是位于东伦敦哈克尼威克的 The Yard 剧院所面临的挑战。该剧院由艺术总监杰伊·米勒(Jay Miller)于 2011 年在一家借来的、漏水的仓库中创立。最初计划作为一个为期三个月的项目,由 Practice Architecture 事务所通过志愿者劳动力和 7,000 英镑 的材料预算完成改造。它成为了某位评论家所称的“过去 20 years 来首都最重要的新兴边缘场馆”。

现在,它经过重新打造,容量增加一倍至 220, 并增加了新的后台设施、社区空间和更好的无障碍设施,项目总成本为 670 万英镑。建筑师是岛崎武朗(Takero Shimazaki)及其事务所,他们去年凭借在南伦敦设计的精致木结构 Niwa 住宅入围了斯特林奖(Stirling Prize)。新的 Yard 更加粗犷,采用了波纹纤维水泥板,并保留了原建筑中一些磨损严重的砖墙。落水管、栏杆和其他普通物件被涂成洋红色。一段带有涂鸦的墙壁也被纳入了结构之中。

它同样具有雄心。岛崎引用了伟大的意大利建筑师安德烈亚·帕拉第奥(Andrea Palladio)作为灵感,其构图中有着文艺复兴时期教堂的回响。一端是一座塔楼,另一端是一个带有山墙的前脸。前者(这一点并不那么帕拉第奥式)覆盖着半透明的聚碳酸酯,在夜晚成为一座发光的灯塔。后者坚固且带有微妙的多色调,由 K-BRIQ 构成,这是一种主要由回收废物制成的材料,其制造商称其为“世界上最可持续的砖”。

可持续性和重复利用是该设计的驱动力。原有的建筑结构尽可能被保留,材料则经过回收。自然通风系统的空气通过塔楼排出,塔楼同时也充当通风管。这里还有一种与适配和即兴相关的美学。整体是由对比鲜明的部件组合而成的:沉重与轻盈、明亮与暗淡、新与旧、粗糙与精致。它契合其所在地——一个正在经历更新、充斥着精酿啤酒和公寓楼的旧工业区,但同时也是其周围环境的升级版。屋顶上有一尊由艺术家捐赠的安东尼·葛姆雷(Antony Gormley)雕塑。

前厅比外观稍微豪华一些,栏杆和纤细的金属柱被涂成金色。其色调既有维多利亚时代高级剧院的风格,也带有包豪斯艺术家约瑟夫·阿尔伯斯(Josef Albers)那种充满活力的抽象感,配有栗色长凳、群青色吧台,墙壁则呈现孔雀石绿和各种红色调。观众席则更为肃穆:有涂成深紫色的管状钢结构,以及石灰色弧形排座。

舞台与室外人行道持平,两者由一面墙和一扇门隔开,且均经过隔音处理。这,以及

岛崎武朗为哈克尼威克剧院设计的方案包含一面涂鸦墙和一座在夜晚成为发光灯塔的塔楼。Philip Vile

内部装修尚未完全完工的状态,增强了一种临场感。该剧院目前正在上演《有色人种女孩思考自杀 / 当彩虹足够时》(For Colored Girls Contemplating Suicide / When the Rainbow is Enuf),这是美国作家恩托扎克·尚格(Ntozake Shange)创作于 50 年前的一部舞蹈诗剧。五位表演者分别穿着不同强烈的色彩,在完全没有布景的舞台上舞蹈并朗诵:她们成为了剧院中最顶端且最重要的元素。

尽管预算比之前增加了很多,但依然紧张,在某些地方其效果显得过于简陋。但这有助于这座建筑完成其最重要的任务之一。它确实保留并增强了原有的精神。

如果你想欣赏一些宏伟的建筑图纸,可以前往伦敦建筑协会(Architectural Association)参观彼得·萨尔特(Peter Salter)的新展。他是一位对建筑师和学生产生深远影响的设计师兼教师。展出的作品旨在开发和解释 1985 到 2020 年间未建成及已建成的作品:一家位于日本的餐厅、一座位于威尼斯的桥梁,以及西伦敦的一个四栋房屋开发项目。

这些图纸部分使用绘图笔和直尺工具绘制,展现了他早年为地方当局担任技术绘图员时习得的精细精准度。同时,它们又通过水彩晕染、铅笔和流畅的徒手绘图而充满活力。它们同时展示了多方面内容:设计的思考过程、细节与尺寸,以及拟议空间的想象生活。

人体形象通常赤裸且往往显得沉重,分布在曲线形状之间的模糊阴影中。他的设计具有大地气息,有时在字面意义上如此——他是如今流行的夯土技术的早期倡导者。你并不总能明白发生了什么——展出的项目在展览中并未得到充分解释——但你会看到一些将身体与建筑结合得如此紧密的图纸,这在其他作品中极为罕见。

停止石油 (Just stop oil)

📄 外文原文 ↗

本周电影

在亚历杭德罗·冈萨雷斯·伊纳里图这部自命不凡且令人愤怒的生态讽刺片中,汤姆·克鲁斯饰演一名德克萨斯州燃料大亨,挑战其职业生涯中最艰巨的角色

温迪·艾德 (Wendy Ide)

📄 外文原文 ↗

《挖掘者》(Digger)

(129 分钟, 15 级) 导演:亚历杭德罗·冈萨雷斯·伊纳里图;主演:汤姆·克鲁斯, 瑞兹·艾哈迈德, 约翰·古德曼

这部电影真是彻头彻尾地令人恼火。这位墨西哥导演亚历杭德罗·冈萨雷斯·伊纳里图的最新作品是一部充满大胆野心的作品。它展现了与他那部获得多项奥斯卡奖的《鸟人》相媲美的精湛技术实力和电影工艺。与此同时,它也像伊纳里图最近那部广受诟病的电影《巴多,关于少数真相的虚构编年史》一样,同样令人厌恶且自我沉溺。它将汤姆·克鲁斯诱导出了他作为动作英雄的舒适区,进入了一个可以说其职业生涯中最具挑战性的角色。但他陷入了一个误区,认为表演越夸张、越怪诞,演技就越好。

《挖掘者》会让人将其与一系列极具原创性的作品进行比较,从特里·吉列姆的《巴西》到查理·考夫曼的《纽约之书》。它与一些自我陶醉的荒诞之作也有着不那么令人愉快的相似之处,例如弗朗西斯·福特·科波拉的《巨型都市》和阿里·艾斯特的《埃丁顿》。尽管片中有些时刻因其胆量和勇气而真正令人振奋,但整部电影却显得晦涩、令人迷失、令人愤怒且精疲力竭。正如一位业内人士在上周的皇家首映礼后疲惫地对我观察到的那样:“这部电影的信息量太大了。”

或许最令人沮丧的事实是,《挖掘者》并非它最初呈现的样子。在经历了一场喧闹的噪音和过度刺激的猛攻之后,电影展开成为一部层次更丰富、更耐人寻味且发人深省的作品。但由于电影制作方要求评论不得剧透,因此无法挖掘出这部电影中更有趣的

方面。

我还能说什么呢?《挖掘者》是一部具有对抗性且及时的电影,它将镜头对准了那些极其富有的精英怪物,这些人宁愿让地球燃烧,也不愿看到自己的利润受损。它还强调我们每个人在某种程度上都成为了共犯;面对不确定的未来,我们不愿放弃现代生活的特权。这是一次令人不适的观看体验,甚至在你考虑到那嘈杂的配乐以及寻找最难看角度拍摄、随后又加上鱼眼镜头以进一步放大丑陋感的摄像机之前,就已经如此了。

代表财富与权力最糟糕的过剩之风的是挖掘者·罗克韦尔(Digger Rockwell,由克鲁斯饰演,他通过灰色的肤色掩饰和扭曲成永久不满表情的嘴巴进行了深度伪装)。摄影师埃马纽埃尔·卢贝兹基从低角度拍摄他,使挖掘者像他自认为的工业巨头一样耸立在我们面前。他职业是石油商,带有德克萨斯牛仔的做作风格,并拥有一把从祖父那里继承的珍贵木柄铲。但挖掘者的领地远不止家族企业创立之初的那几口草原油井:他是世界上最有权势的人。现在,他正在格陵兰岛钻探,并选择无视由受压迫的加内什博士(Dr Ganesh,由瑞兹·艾哈迈德饰演,贡献了片中唯一毫无疑问的优秀表演)领导的安全顾问们日益紧迫的警告。

随后,不可思议的事情发生了。一座比华盛顿特区大五倍的冰山崩塌,这对欧洲大部分沿海地区产生了严重影响。挖掘者与美国总统(约翰·古德曼)、惊魂未定的副总统(迈克尔·斯图尔巴格)以及其他各种名流和随从一起,聚集在一个装饰着全美重工业壁画的会议室里(在这部喧闹嘈杂的电影中,没有任何东西是含蓄的,这一点也

汤姆·克鲁斯饰演挖掘者·罗克韦尔,右,在“自我沉溺”的《挖掘者》中。华纳兄弟

它晦涩且令人迷失。正如一位业内人士在首映礼后疲惫地观察到:“这部电影的信息量太大了”

(制作设计也获得了双倍预算)。他们的困境在于:如何将一场注定成为全球大范围物种灭绝事件的灾难,包装成积极向上的基调?与此同时,迪格正忙于让他的病猫活下去,并与他年轻得多的同父异母妹妹艾玛(由桑德拉·许勒饰演,简直是对其才华的犯罪式浪费)唇枪舌剑。

并非所有事情都如初见般简单,这一事实在多个层面上对电影有利,尤其是缓解了在尼泊尔山洪暴发后不久就发行一部关于冰川环境灾难的大片所带来的明显粗俗感。它甚至敲响了谨慎的希望之钟,暗示即使在悲剧之后,人性与艺术也将永存。但这足够吗?人们很容易假设,任何如此大声疾呼的电影一定有某些重要的话要说。但这部电影夸大了所有事情,包括它自身的重要性。

其他推荐... 文 / 温迪·艾德 (Wendy Ide)

📄 外文原文 ↗

《重量》(The Weight)

(113 分钟, 15) 导演:帕德里克·麦金利 (Padraic McKinley);主演:伊桑·霍克 (Ethan Hawke)、罗素·克劳 (Russell Crowe)、朱莉娅·琼斯 (Julia Jones)

《重量》是一部充满力量的大萧条时代冒险片,氛围中弥漫着浓厚的粗粝感与尘垢。这是一个令人振奋的救赎故事,伊桑·霍克在片中展现了其一如既往且令人印象深刻的顶尖演技。他饰演的墨菲是一名鳏夫,对机械之事洞若观火,脸上挂着勉强维持的微笑,却难以掩饰深深刻在消瘦面庞上的忧虑。这个微笑是为了给女儿佩妮——一个可爱得像纽扣一样的小女孩——看的,但即便如此,佩妮也能看出父亲正艰难地维持着他们的住所和温饱。

一次与一群暴徒警察的冲突导致佩妮被送往儿童之家,而墨菲则被送往俄勒冈州的荒野执行苦役。在这里,他沉稳且高效的能力引起了劳工队看守克兰西(罗素·克劳 饰,在小角色中展现了极具分量的演技)的注意。墨菲获得了一个赢回自由的机会。他只需要三名值得信赖的狱友,强健的双腿和敏捷的头脑。他们的任务是将一批黄金货物穿过俄勒冈的山区运送到安全地带。一名偷渡者加入了队伍:安娜(朱莉娅·琼斯 饰)是一名原住民女性,她将此视为逃离悲惨生活的机会,并证明自己是一名精明的同伴。

绝望的男人、贪婪,以及自威廉·弗里德金 (William Friedkin) 的《魔术师》(Sorcerer) 以来最令人心惊胆战的绳桥场景,共同构成了一部扣人心弦的旧式法外之徒惊悚片。首次执导长片的帕德里克·麦金利利用全景宽银幕摄影增强了戏剧冲突,从而更好地捕捉那残酷景观中的暴力之美及其潜藏的野蛮。

《德里克对德里克》(Derek vs Derek)

(88 分钟, 15) 导演:詹姆斯·达默·道森 (James Damer Dawson);主演:班伯里 (Banbury)、高 (Gow)

两人都是农民,在德文郡拥有相邻的土地。两人都叫德里克。但这就是班伯里和高之间唯一的共同点。这部幽默且发人深省的纪录片通过两名处于争论对立面的乖戾邻居的视角,探讨了关于耕作方式以及我们对英国乡村管理权的辩论。班伯里是一名奶农,热爱他的奶牛,并采用所有可用技术来最大化土地的生产力。而他的邻居高则摒弃了传统耕作,

'一个令人振奋的救赎故事':伊桑·霍克在《重量》中饰演鳏夫墨菲。

转而支持一项雄心勃勃的野化与自然保护项目。

这是一个充满争议的举动,尤其是因为他通过繁育计划支持的一些物种——例如野猪和海狸——在邻近的农场里生活得过于自在。猎枪被挥舞起来;树篱管理成了一个棘手的问题。但詹姆斯·达默·道森这部令人愉快的电影鼓励的是和谐而非分裂:显然,两人都深切关心着这片土地的未来。

《刀》:企图谋杀萨尔曼·鲁什迪

📄 外文原文 ↗

(107 分钟,15 级)导演:亚历克斯·吉布尼;主演:萨尔曼·鲁什迪、瑞秋·埃莉莎·格里菲斯

一切的起点是那把刀——2022 年在纽约州肖托夸,一名袭击者在一次疯狂的攻击中用它袭击了作家萨尔曼·鲁什迪。但这部涵盖了该作者一生及其身体与心理康复过程的广泛纪录片中,最犀利的元素是鲁什迪本人强大的心智。该片使用了鲁什迪的妻子瑞秋·埃莉莎·格里菲斯在震惊事件发生后拍摄的私人且极具亲密感的片段,以及大量的档案资料,其核心目的在于展现鲁什迪敏捷的才智。

他以坦诚且几乎没有怨恨的口吻,讲述了在死里逃生后走向康复的旅程。亚历克斯·吉布尼那不事张扬、像工匠般扎实的导演手法,非常正确地让被采访者的声音占据了中心舞台。

本周艺术家

生命与灵魂

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千禧年代的实力派吉尔·斯科特将 R&B、嘻哈、蓝调和口述诗融入一场回顾职业生涯的演出中——而且在个人魅力上也没有吝啬

基蒂·帝国

吉尔·斯科特

伯明翰 O2 学院

贴着“有毒的爱”、“戏剧”、“婊子”和“骗子”标签的纸箱全部打包好,准备放在吉尔·斯科特的舞台布景房屋外。自 2000 年她的两倍白金首张专辑——《Who Is Jill Scott? Words and Sounds Vol 1》使其名声大噪以来,这位来自费城的新灵魂乐歌手在赢得格莱美奖的同时,一直分享着引起共鸣的人生教训。目前没有乘坐“灵魂列车”的英国观众可能通过她饰演的普雷舍斯·拉莫茨韦认识斯科特,该角色出自根据亚历山大·麦考尔·史密斯小说改编的电视剧《第一名女士侦探社》。

一段被放弃的教师生涯凸显了斯科特分享知识的旺盛动力。“吉尔小姐”确实能掌控全场。在今晚这场售罄的演出中,她在两个小时的时间里散发出兆瓦级的魅力,同时与观众分享私密心事并充当他们的知己。主题包括坚守个人价值观、优化情感健康以及做让自己感觉舒服的事——尤其是相互感官愉悦的快感。

“我没让你们带孩子来看这场演出!”在经历了几次狂喜的歌唱和坦率的洞察后,斯科特轻笑着说道,随后她将贝斯手兼乐队共同领导者德韦恩·“DW”·赖特介绍为“阴部低语者”。

“我想让你们关掉耳朵,用阴道去听,”斯科特指示观众,此时 DW 释放出那种会让当地名宿黑色安息日(Black Sabbath)都赞赏的、直击内脏的频率。身体的连接——人的连接——对斯科特至关重要。在这次欧洲巡演中,她带来了一支完整的乐队,包括一个同时担任气氛组的 R&B 演唱组合 Freeman,以及一名小号手和一名爵士长笛手。这一切都是她对“人类”承诺的一部分。

专辑

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斯科特在演唱她最新专辑《To Whom This May Concern》(今年发行)中的歌曲《Be Great》时说道。她自豪地告诉我们,这次巡演共有 28 人参与。“这意味着 28 张机票,28 间酒店客房。”斯科特及其团队就像一个丰盈且慷慨的超级有机体,将信任寄托于人,而非技术替代品。

另一首近期的歌曲《Offadaback》向众多黑人人物致敬,正是因为有他们的铺路,斯科特才能在宽大的蓝色礼服中摇曳生姿,在跨越多个八度的音域中纵情歌唱。(背景幕布上描绘了蒂娜·特纳和马尔科姆·X。)在一些废弃行李箱旁的抽屉里存放着大量的帽子、发带和假发;她每唱几首歌就会更换一次头饰。在演唱《Pay U on Tuesday》这首带有旧时代新奥尔良蓝调风格、旨在抨击软弱男人的歌曲时,斯科特配了一把蓝色羽毛扇。在《BPOTY》(即“年度最大皮条客”)——另一首来自她最新专辑的曲目——中,斯科特还点名批评了那些贪财的传教士。

对于斯科特来说,“新灵魂乐”(Neo-soul)这个流派标签或许已经变得多余。她曾是 2000 年代一批深受嘻哈、口述诗和 R&B 影响的灵魂乐艺术家之一。今晚的音乐菜单涵盖了爵士乐、来自 Freeman 的融合了新杰克摇摆(new jack swing)的 R&B,以及斯科特的歌剧片段,其中包括在她深受喜爱的早期热门歌曲《He Loves Me (Lyzel in E Flat)》的延伸版本中,对西班牙古典形式进行的几次令人惊叹的低音域探索。今年 2 月发行的《To Whom This May Concern》标志着她在沉寂十年后回归乐坛;斯科特的多年好友兼新灵魂乐同行埃里卡·巴杜(Erykah Badu)今年也凭借《Before the World Blows》实现了回归。再加上 Jalen Ngonda 和 Genesis Owusu 最近的作品,2026 年成为了灵魂乐相关专辑的杰出之年。

在演唱涵盖其职业生涯的曲目单时,斯科特讲述了她如何将一些人从生活中“剔除”。其中一个必须离开的人是一个极佳的性伴侣——“丁格林先生”(Mr Dingaling)——但他对“二重唱”不感兴趣。出自 2004 年专辑《Beautifully Human》的歌曲《Cross My Mind》详细描述了斯科特对往日亲密关系的回忆——这既是某种性疗愈,也是关于真爱的入门指南——随后衔接至新专辑中的《Don’t Play》。“请狠狠地取悦我,像 K-Dot 的歌词那样狠狠地,”她唱道,向肯德里克·拉马尔(Kendrick Lamar)致意。

结果是,斯科特遇到了新的人。(“我们花了一些时间,进行了考察,”她坏笑着说。)在漫长的最后一部分中,近期的曲目与斯科特最受欢迎的热门歌曲(包括《The Way》和关于自由、快乐生活的《Golden》)一样出彩。尽管最后说出的一个词是“自由!”,但在此前几首歌中提出的一个见解同样令人印象深刻。“人格,高于一切,他妈的高于一切,”斯科特宣称。她自己的情感教育研讨会,也带着同样丰厚的人格特质。

Ruin: 不仅仅是音乐 Kaitlyn Aurelia Smith (Someone Special)

📄 外文原文 ↗

Kaitlyn Aurelia Smith 以其对模块合成器抽象甚至氛围感的运用而闻名,一段时间以来,她一直对舞池音乐充满好奇。《Ruin》——这是她自 2016 年突破性作品《Ears》以来的第五张个人专辑——完全投身于此。今年 5 月,这位多产且有时倾向于新世纪音乐(new age)的美国电子作曲家在巴比肯中心与伦敦当代管弦乐团共同演出。据报道,安可环节变成了一场小型狂欢派对,尽管受限于舒适的座椅。

《Ruin》中九首充满活力的曲目充斥着数字失真和鼓打贝斯(drum'n'bass)的喧闹声。《Introduction》将肃穆的小调弦乐淡入为欢快的声响制作,让人想起早期 Sophie 作品中那种叮当作响和黏稠挤压的声音。这种奔放的情绪在《That Is Like You》中再次出现,这是一首充满琶音元素的过载数字流行曲。听起来很有趣。

低音音乐(bass music)的迟到者往往容易出错,尤其是如果他们与伦敦音响系统文化的联系较为薄弱。但作为一名千禧一代的太平洋西北地区人,Smith 表现得令人赞赏。这并非简单的追随碎拍(breakbeat)潮流。像《Obsessed》这样的曲目是高 BPM 的锻炼,以先锋艺术的方式审视派对。Smith 将《Ruin》描述为她的“fuck you”专辑——“不是对你们说,而是为了你们”。这是一次宣泄式的释放,同时依然突出了 Smith 的作曲功底。Kitty Empire

The Age of Everything Johnny Marr (BMG)

📄 外文原文 ↗

在 The Smiths 乐队解散后的二十多年里,Johnny Marr 一直扮演着“雇佣枪手”的角色,直到 2013 年他才最终安定下来开启个人职业生涯。这份稳定的“日间工作”确实很适合他——在去年的美国巡演中经过实战检验,他第五张专辑中的歌曲是他迄今为止最令人印象深刻的一组。令人欣慰的是,这张唱片比 2022 年冗长的《Fever Dreams Pts 1-4》更为简洁(10 首歌在 45 分钟内),尽管他也在此中克制了一些在那张专辑中较为偏向电子的尝试。

亮点颇多:《It's Time》能量迸发,Marr 那极具感染力的叮当吉他声显然是在向其早期作品致敬,而副歌中“whoa, whoa”的人声则离奇地让人想起 Hall & Oates 的《Maneater》(作为 1980 年代主题的彩蛋,《That Feeling》中的 whoa 声让人想起 The Police 的《Invisible Sun》)。在整张专辑中,Marr 的吉他闪耀却从不炫技,这或许解释了为什么《Beyond the Rain》和《Spin》能让旧的独立摇滚理念听起来如此新鲜。很少有音乐人在 60 多岁时仍处于巅峰状态,但这正是《The Age of Everything》令人印象深刻的又一原因。Phil Mongredien

Nature's Pill Wishy (Winspear)

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90 年代复兴风潮正盛,总部位于印第安纳波利斯的独立乐队 Wishy 对那个年代的音乐有着非常独特的见解。他们将甜美的垃圾摇滚(grunge)与梦幻流行(dream pop)相结合,模仿了 Velocity Girl 和 Wannadies 等乐队的跨界热门作品。出色的单曲《Sensational》包含了如此多那个时代的触点,以至于几乎像一部百科全书:一段来自 Rob Base 和 DJ EZ Rock 的《It Takes Two》的节拍;一段粗粝的 Offspring 风格吉他扫弦;一段像麦当娜《Vogue》中“strike a pose”开场白一样的口白段落;以及对 Ultra Naté 的《Free》的改编。此外还有一段四小节的康加鼓独奏。而这一切都发生在令人无法抗拒的副歌之前,在副歌中,歌手 Kevin Krauter 和 Nina Pitchkites 鼓励一名“具有对抗性的电话推销员”赶紧“挂掉电话”。

Wishy 第二张专辑的其余部分同样是不加掩饰的有趣。即使是 Krauter 在《All the Rage》中对恋人离去的焦虑回应——“去他妈的洗碗 / 去他妈的地板上的衣服 / 我不再在乎了 / 既然你已经离开”——也是一种挥拳欢呼的快感。《Mona Lisa》和由 Pitchkites 主唱的《Lovesick》轻快且充满记忆点,而《Freak 99》则可爱得有些傻气。Wishy 或许在挖掘过去,但从目前的证据来看,他们拥有光明的未来。Lewis Huxley

Synonym Meshell Ndegeocello (Blue Note)

📄 外文原文 ↗

贝斯手兼歌手 Meshell Ndegeocello 在其获得格莱美奖、受詹姆斯·鲍德温启发而创作的 2024 年专辑《No More Water》中,证明了自己是对深奥素材的娴熟诠释者。如今,她带着合唱专辑《Synonym》回归,尝试重新演绎从鲍勃·迪伦(Bob Dylan)到 Ja Rule 以及 Human League 等各路艺人的流行歌曲。Ndegeocello 的合作者名单令人印象深刻,包括查卡· خان(Chaka Khan)、利安·拉哈瓦斯(Lianne La Havas)、爵士钢琴家罗伯特·格拉斯珀(Robert Glasper)和布兰迪·卡莱尔(Brandi Carlile)。

她对这些嗓音的安置十分巧妙,在丹尼斯·爱德华兹(Dennis Edwards)和塞达·加雷特(Siedah Garrett)那首洗脑旋律的《Don't Look Any Further》中使用了拉哈瓦斯柔软且富有灵魂的音色,并在罗伯塔·弗莱克(Roberta Flack)的抒情曲《The Closer I Get to You》中利用了 R&B 歌手德斯汀·康拉德(Destin Conrad)和摩西·萨姆尼(Moses Sumney)的和声灵活性。然而,这张专辑最令人印象深刻的并非这些星光熠熠的客串,而是 Ndegeocello 对熟悉音乐的重新编曲。

在《Always On Time》中,她将 Ja Rule 和 Ashanti 原曲中 00 年代的嘻哈能量翻转为温暖的 70 年代灵魂乐曲目;而 Sonny & Cher 的《I Got You Babe》则褪去了轻快的乐观色彩,转化为一首忧郁的爵士抒情曲。在拆解那些可辨识的旋律时,Ndegeocello 找到了令人兴奋的新领域。Ammar Kalia

值得关注

📄 外文原文 ↗

Madra Salach

这个来自都柏林的六人组合在对传统民谣的粗粝探索中,摒弃了吉格舞曲(jigs)和里尔舞曲(reels)。

如同之前的 Pogues 乐队和 Lankum 乐队一样,Madra Salach 触及了传统爱尔兰民谣那粗粝的根源。这里找不到欢快的吉格或里尔舞曲;这是带有紧锁眉头和威士忌气息的音乐。Madra Salach(在爱尔兰语中意为“脏狗”)成立于 2023 年,已从三人组发展为六人组合,他们从家乡北都柏林酒吧私密间(snugs)的即兴演奏会起步,逐步崭露头角。

今年年初,他们发行了首张由自己制作的 EP《It's a Hell of an Age》。其中《The Man Who Seeks Pleasure》是出彩之作,由风琴的持续低音、拨奏曼陀林和锡笛伴随保罗·班克斯(Paul Banks)那痛苦且像心碎之人般的唱腔。在节日巡演中惊艳观众后,该乐队现已重新启程,推广新单曲《Ribbon Factory》。

“这感觉像是我们迈向更活泼、更朋克编曲的垫脚石,”班克斯说道,“这是一首独特的爱尔兰歌曲,充满了愤怒与绝望。”作为该组合现场演出的一块基石,这首歌加快了节奏,班克斯紧迫的唱腔最终让位于一段令人振奋的器乐尾声。在我们等待其首张专辑期间,Madra Salach 翻唱的《Turkish Song of the Damned》将出现在向谢恩·麦高根(Shane MacGowan)致敬的专辑《20th Century Paddy》中,该专辑定于 11 月发行。Jamie Healy

《Ribbon Factory》现已在 Island Records 发行;Madra Salach 将在英国巡演至 10 月 14 日。

重读

美国中央情报局如何将西方文化武器化

📄 外文原文 ↗

《谁在为此买单?》(Who Paid the Piper?)讲述了一个令人难以置信的故事:美国情报部门如何资助艺术、电影和文学,试图在意识形态的冷战中获胜。威廉·博伊德(William Boyd)重新审视了这本书,它是作者已故的弗朗西丝·斯托诺·桑德斯(Frances Stonor Saunders)留给世人的持久见证。

我与弗朗西丝·斯托诺·桑德斯的相识很大程度上是通过我们共同联系的克雷格·雷恩(Craig Raine)的文学杂志《Areté》,她是该杂志的常驻撰稿人。几周前,她不幸早逝,这让世界失去了一个充满活力、极其聪明且令人愉悦的人,以及一位创作出多样化精彩著作的卓越作家。她于1999年出版的惊人处女作——《谁在为此买单?美国中央情报局与文化冷战》(Who Paid the Piper? The CIA and the Cultural Cold War)——刚刚由 Granta 出版社重新发行。巧合的是,我去年在为一部六集电视剧做研究时重新阅读了这本书,该剧基于詹姆斯·坎贝尔(James Campbell)关于美国驻巴黎作家的著作《巴黎中区》(Paris Interzone)。我特别感兴趣的是美国中央情报局在 1950 年代和 60 年代对居住在巴黎的黑人美国作家——如詹姆斯·鲍德温(James Baldwin)、切斯特·海姆斯(Chester Himes)、理查德·赖特(Richard Wright)等人——进行的秘密迫害,并希望调查当时美国中央情报局在巴黎活动的背景。

那个背景是一个名为“文化自由大会”(CCF)的美国中央情报局秘密组织,其总部在 1950-1967 年间设在巴黎。CCF 的职责是提升并传播西方的文化价值,以明确对抗共产主义。其逻辑是,如果广义上的西方“文化”能够被广泛获取,那么它所承载的价值观——言论自由、实验精神、民主、自由意志主义、多元主义等等——将使那些被共产主义意识形态吸引的人重新思考。在权力巅峰时期, 在 35 个国家设有办事处,出版 20 多本杂志,资助艺术展、交响乐团、电影、博物馆、奖项、会议、公开辩论、书籍出版——简而言之,任何能够推广“美利坚和平”(Pax Americana)并颂扬西方所提供的自由,以对抗苏联及其卫星国之压制与枯燥的事物都在其资助之列。因此,许多作家、知识分子和学者被招募其中——有些是心知肚明的,有些则是在不知情的情况下。

对于 而言,最有效的宣传被定义为那种“使对象出于其认为是个人的原因,向你希望的方向移动”的宣传。这就是 的运作模式,而且非常有效。最著名的例子或许是备受推崇的英国杂志《遭遇》(Encounter),它被描述为早期英式版本的《纽约书评》。诗人斯蒂芬·斯宾德(Stephen Spender)曾任其编辑。当他在 1967 年最终发现整本杂志竟然是美国中央情报局宣传机器的一个受资助部分时,他感到极度震惊并迅速辞职。

弗朗西丝的书首次揭露了 作用的全球范围。现在讲述起来似乎令人难以置信,例如, 的大人物们认为推广所谓“纽约画派”艺术家的作品是个好主意。因此,像杰克逊·波洛克(Jackson Pollock)和威廉·德·库宁(Willem de Kooning)这样的抽象表现主义画家很快就成了美国中央情报局慷慨资助的受益者。他们被安排在海外举办展览,有人为他们撰写好评文章和人物简介,差旅费用由对方支付。

最有趣的是,在 的文化宣传中贯穿着一种高层精英主义。鲍里斯·帕斯捷尔纳克(Boris Pasternak)的《齐瓦哥医生》英文译本得到了秘密资助。T.S. 艾略特(TS Eliot)的《四个四重奏》俄文译本被秘密空投到苏联俄罗斯。乔治·奥威尔(George Orwell)的《动物庄园》和《1984》被改编成电影,且由 秘密出资。然而, 特别是

许多作家、

知识分子和

学者被

招募

——有些是心知肚明的,

有些则是在不知情的情况下

热衷于书籍,据称在 CCF 存续期间资助了一千多部出版物。一名高级特工写道:“书籍与其他宣传媒介的不同之处,主要在于单本书籍就能在很大程度上改变读者的态度和行为,这是任何其他单一媒介都无法比拟的。”

在《谁为笛手买单?》(Who Paid the Piper?)一书中有一个引人入胜的章节名为“兰森的男孩们”(Ransom’s Boys),揭示了这种刻意培养的精英主义以及 CCF 影响力的知识分量。这里提到的兰森是指美国学术评论家兼诗人约翰·克罗·兰森(John Crowe Ransom),他是一位诗歌教授,也是著名杂志《肯扬评论》(Kenyon Review)的创办人,该杂志总部位于俄亥俄州的肯扬学院。这本由 CCF 秘密资助的杂志成为了肥沃的招募地。与兰森及其杂志相关的名单读起来

就像一份美国公共知识分子的名人录,包括艾伦·泰特(Allen Tate)、兰德尔·贾雷尔(Randall Jarrell)、彼得·泰勒(Peter Taylor)和罗伯特·洛威尔(Robert Lowell)等学者和作家,他们成为了 CCF 的“资产”。与 CCF 悄悄出资的其他杂志、期刊和机构一样,其目的不仅在于鼓励自由的文化表达,而是在于建立一个赞美美国自由主义的广泛“说服”阵线——换句话说,就是宣传。

书中关于作家充当间谍的篇幅颇具启发性。CIA 的作家特工包括彼得·马蒂森(Peter Matthiessen)、威廉·巴克利(William Buckley)和詹姆斯·米切纳(James Michener)。书中指出,作家充当间谍这一现象有着悠久的传统,其中包括萨默塞特·毛姆(Somerset Maugham)、康普顿·麦肯齐(Compton Mackenzie)、

《观察者报》商店

所有书籍均可在 observershop.co.uk 购买

《观察者报》订阅者作为文化俱乐部(Culture Club)成员可享受 20% 折扣

从上方起顺时针方向:斯蒂芬·斯宾德;《遭遇》(Encounter)杂志;弗朗西斯·斯托纳·桑德斯;由 CCF 资助的 1954 年电影《动物庄园》。Chronicle / Alamy;1961 年的《遭遇》杂志;《格兰塔》(Granta);Prod.DB / Alamy

由 斯蒂芬·斯宾德 & 梅尔文·J·拉斯基 编辑

丽贝卡·韦斯特

理查德·霍加特

《查泰莱》,证人与法律

西奥多·德雷珀

西奥多·德雷珀

卡斯特罗的古巴

弗兰克·克莫德

米勒与贝杰曼

D. W. 布罗根

新前沿

C. A. R. 克罗斯兰

福利世界?

阿诺德·比奇曼

美国新闻界

保罗·鲍尔斯

世界之友

克洛德·列维-斯特劳斯

我们的丛林边缘

笔记、主题、诗歌

汤姆·冈恩

约翰·韦恩

奈杰尔·丹尼斯

埃泽基尔·姆帕赫莱莱

理查德·洛文塔尔

保守派与激进派

90

1961 年 3 月

月刊 3先令 6便士

肯尼斯·克拉克

夏加尔与科科什卡

例如伊丽莎白·鲍恩(Elizabeth Bowen)、格雷厄姆·格林(Graham Greene)和穆里尔·斯帕克(Muriel Spark)。对于 CCF 而言,高端文化是反共防线的重要组成部分,而这些作家和知识分子则被征召为足卒,无论他们是否知情。

这一切听起来相当温和:高端艺术和文学获得秘密资金援助,有什么好不喜欢地?但并非所有作家都从这种资金充足的 CIA 宣传中获益。特别是那些在巴黎自我流亡的美国黑人作家,成为了旧 CIA 以及麦卡锡时代反共猎巫行动的不幸焦点。因为这些非裔美国作家公开且激烈地谴责当时美国存在的压迫、隔离和歧视等种族政策,他们所说的一切和所做的一切都与 CCF 试图传播的所谓健康的文化计划背道而驰。

律师罗伊·科恩(Roy Cohn)是唐纳德·特朗普的榜样和卑劣的导师,他在 20 世纪 50 年代与麦卡锡参议员密切合作,其作风尤为激进。他导致数十本书籍在美国国内外的图书馆被禁。在巴黎的黑人美国作家遭到骚扰,且护照被吊销。《土著之子》这部经典作品的作者、巴黎黑人作家群体的领军人物理查德·赖特(Richard Wright),1960 年在巴黎的一家诊所因突然心脏骤停神秘死亡,享年 52 岁。他的

遗孀坚信他是美国中央情报局(CIA)策划的暗杀受害者。虽然没有任何事情能被最终证实,但美国中央情报局(CIA)的模式是熟悉的:如果你无法赢得个人的心智,那么他们就成了你的敌人和你合法的猎物。

弗朗西斯对文化自由委员会(CCF)运作方式的研究显然极其丰富且令人印象深刻。这本书读起来也十分流畅,并带有她惯有的文学才情、讽刺和幽默。然而,她的结论是凄凉的。正如她在这一非凡的历史调查著作结尾所言,那些阅读但丁且就读于耶鲁大学的文化自由委员会(CCF)知识分子,依然是一个“招募纳粹、操纵民主选举结果、给不知情的受试者服用 LSD、拆阅数千名美国公民的邮件、推翻政府、支持独裁政权 [以及] 策划暗杀”的组织的一部分。文化自由委员会仍然是美国中央情报局(CIA)的一个分支。它看起来像是执行“美利坚和平”(Pax Americana)的一种巧妙手段,但归根结底,它是建立和维持美国霸权的另一种方式。

在《观察者报》读书会播客中,听威廉·博伊德(William Boyd)讨论他的间谍三部曲第三卷《寒色日落》(Cold Sunset)

《谁为笛手买单?美国中央情报局与文化冷战》(Who Paid the Piper? The CIA and the Cultural Cold War)由 Granta 出版(£14.99)

---

周日诗篇

追随索罗亚 (After Sorolla) —— 苏珊娜·V·埃文斯 (Suzannah V Evans) 著

📄 外文原文 ↗

你的背——像扇贝壳一样匀称,你的脊椎是一条线,一条在你弯腰将毛巾移过双腿时轻轻弯曲的径向沟槽——皮肤呈焦糖色。毛巾宛如被微风搅动的风帆——时而露出膝盖,时而露出大腿内侧,在沐浴后全部呈现出玫瑰色,且交织着你手指抚过之处留下的痕迹。头发——像一朵凌乱的海葵——脸颊——双颊都被热气染成了绯红色——耳朵——沙色,卷成褶皱——眼睛——像从海中舀出的两勺水——即便索罗亚为岩石所用的最纯净的紫色也无法描述其颜色——

苏珊娜·V·埃文斯在布鲁姆斯伯里诗歌(Bloomsbury Poetry)出版的处女诗集《在蓝色之下》(Under the Blue)入围了 2026 年国际迪兰·托马斯奖(International Dylan Thomas prize)的短名单。她的新小册子名为《跑步之法》(How Running Is,Guillemot Press 出版)。

政治

戈登·布朗的好邻居

📄 外文原文 ↗

前首相认为,社区精神是克服分歧和击败民粹主义的关键。作者:蕾切尔·西尔维斯特 (Rachel Sylvester)

《未来始于我们》(The Future Starts With Us)

戈登·布朗 (Gordon Brown) 著

Simon & Schuster 出版,£25,416页

在新工党时代,与阳光、乐观的托尼·布莱尔相比,戈登·布朗一直被视为一个阴沉、忧郁的悲观主义者。如果说布莱尔是麦卡特尼,那么他就是列侬;如果布莱尔是马蒂斯,那么他就是毕加索。当当时的首相在唐宁街10号意气风发地宣布新曙光已经到来时,他则在唐宁街11号面色阴沉,承诺要带着目标谨慎行事。因此,在《未来始于我们》一书中发现一种最终充满希望的信息,令人感到惊喜且在一定程度上松了一口气。

诚然,这种积极的态度出现得较慢。布朗在书中写道,这本书是“危机的产物”,诞生于政治、经济和外交领域“震动构造板块的剧烈变动”之中。旧有的基于规则的世界秩序正在崩溃。由干旱和洪水加剧的混乱与暴力正在造成破坏,而各国政府似乎无法团结起来应对人工智能(AI)等新挑战。

前首相指出,随着特朗普领导下的美国背弃其旧友和盟友,一种“强权即公理”的态度已经占据主导。公民生活经历了“缓慢而艰苦的……侵蚀”,而在民粹主义者利用当地社区弱点引导下,“侵略性和权威性的族群民族主义”危险地崛起。一个“破碎的经济”被一个“破碎的社会”所加剧,在这个社会中,“全球60%的成年人口没有定期参与任何形式的社会或公民活动”。

在一次充满有趣事实的全面分析中,布朗报告称,全球完全自由民主国家的数量已下降至仅 29 个,为三十多年来的最低水平。自 1945 年起运行的《原子科学家公报》将其著名的“末日之钟”拨到了历史上最接近午夜的位置——从 1947 年首次设定时的距离午夜 7 分钟,到 2026 年 1 月的 85 秒——这意味着我们比以往任何时候都更接近全球灾难。

布朗认为,“最粗糙且最直观的……排外形式就是将国家与国家分隔开的物理墙壁、围栏和障碍物的激增”。1990 年柏林墙倒塌后,边境墙的数量下降到 15 个。书中称,在经历了一波建设热潮后,现在至少有 70 个。布朗写道,未来“不能也不会简单地镜像过去”,随后他表示:“到 2050 年,印度的经济规模可能会是英国的四倍,中国的经济规模将是欧盟的两倍,且全球五分之四的人口将居住在非洲或亚洲。”

但作为首相全球金融顾问的布朗,也引用了美国经济学家劳伦斯·萨默斯(Larry Summers)的观点,即“事件 75% 是对世界负面的,但趋势 75% 是正面的”——换句话说,无论短期内情况看起来多么糟糕,长期预后是良好的。布朗认为,人类身上有一种持久的体面,无论人们处于多么困难的境地,这种体面都无法被抹杀。“即使幻灭感在蔓延,我们中的数十亿人仍继续生活在对意义的追求中。我们工作,生育并抚养孩子,参加洗礼、婚礼和庆祝活动,并在一些在某些人看来微小的快乐中获得满足。”他相信,这种对他人的天生共情表明了民粹主义如何被击败。布朗写道:“数百万人能感受到他人的痛苦,并相信某种比自身更伟大的事物。他们觉得,如果被赋予权力,他们可以在创造一个更美好的世界中发挥自己的作用,并且愿意这样做。”

有时,这位前工党首相的主张听起来像是其保守党继任者大卫·卡梅伦(David Cameron)“大社会”(Big Society)计划的左翼版本。这会让布朗感到恐惧,但或许这表明主流政党之间的分歧,并不像它们与极端民粹主义者之间的分裂那样深刻。书中的某些方面是可以预见的,感觉

在政府任职期间,

布朗被认为

有点像个

控制狂,从

财政部一直到 No 10

2009年,戈登·布朗在史蒂夫尼奇(Stevenage)的一家社区中心。

Adrian Dennis / WPA Pool / Getty Images

像是在炒冷饭。距离布朗之前关于我们所处困境的著作《永久危机》(Permacrisis,与经济学家穆罕默德·埃尔-埃里安和迈克尔·斯宾塞合著)仅过去三年。在寻找解决方案的过程中,这位工党资深人士回顾了许多他最青睐的主题,包括“更公平的全球税收制度”、公民课程、宪法改革以及“发展契约”。

新鲜之处在于一项针对45个国家近100,000人的全新民意调查,该调查支持了布朗的论点。全球人口中只有少数人——不足四分之一——将世界视为“我们”与“他们”之间的斗争,无论这些“他人”是移民还是“全球精英”。受访者对自己带来改变的能力出奇地乐观。当被问及是否相信普通人能在解决包括气候变化和不平等在内的重大挑战中发挥作用时,57%的人表示肯定,只有28%的人表示否定。

当英国选民被问及是否同意或不同意“大多数人基本上是善良的,并且想要做正确的事”这一说法时,79%的人表示同意。几乎同样比例的人(73%)表示,他们相信为下一代构建一个更好的未来仍然是可能的。民调发现,人们与邻居互动越多、参与社区活动越多,就越不可能支持民粹主义民族主义事业。该书得出结论,除了解决财务不安全感的经济政策外,帮助人们结识邻居可以将改革英国党(Reform UK)等政党的得票率降低15%至20%之间。

在卸任后,布朗担任了一系列国际职务,包括联合国全球教育特使和世界卫生组织全球健康金融大使。但他也创立了一个名为 Multibank 的社区捐赠中心网络,将零售商和制造商的商品分发给有需要的人。书中暗示,正是这一倡议对他近期的思考产生了最大影响。

在政府任职期间,布朗被视为某种程度上的控制狂,在财政部,随后在 No 10. 策划政治事件。现在,他主张“拯救民主的唯一途径是将被动公民转变为主动公民”。他承认,这是一个他本应在多年前就得出的结论,即变革不会来自“政治家在高层做出的决定,来自公报、惯例、委员会或会议”。正如他所言,变革将始于“家中以及家附近”。

由迈克尔·克拉格(Michael Cragg)挑选的三本流行音乐书籍

《我想要我的MTV》(I Want My MTV),作者罗布·坦嫩鲍姆(Rob Tannenbaum)和克雷格·马克斯(Craig Marks)(2011年)。其讲述对象

涵盖了从珍妮·杰克逊到“怪异艾尔”扬科维奇的所有人,《我想要我的MTV》是一部关于该音乐频道影响力巅峰时期的喧闹且毫无保留的口述史。该书涵盖了其在 1981, 略显简陋的起步阶段,一直到该十年后期由可卡因驱动的金属发型时代,再到1992年因电子游戏和市场过度饱和而导致统治地位受威胁的早期衰落,以一种俏皮的方式将流行文化的荒诞之处置于最刺眼的灯光下。

《玛丽亚·凯莉的意义》(The Meaning of Mariah Carey),作者玛丽亚·凯莉与米凯拉·安吉拉·戴维斯合著(2020年)

流行音乐的传说全部关于

“这段旅程”,而没有谁通往超级巨星之路比拥有金嗓子的天后玛丽亚·凯莉(Mariah Carey)更复杂。本书记录了她从暴力童年到充满掠夺性的音乐产业的崛起,经历了打破纪录的成功以及不可避免的崩溃;同时,这本书也将聚光灯投向了作为词曲作者的玛丽亚:随着热门金曲接踵而至,她艺术创作的这一面太容易被忽视了。这本书也非常有趣,充满了凯莉那闪烁的、夸张的幽默感,以及最终那份坚定不移的韧性。

《大城市的爱》(Love in the Big City),作者朴相英(Sang Young Park),安东·赫尔(Anton Hur)译(2021年)。在韩国作家朴相英的处女作小说中,热爱享乐但又愤世嫉俗的主角 Young,在烟雾缭绕的酒吧和各种 Tinder 约炮对象的床上之间随心所欲地穿梭,期间偶尔学习一下。在他感染 HIV 后,他决定需要给体内的这个东西起一个“好听的名字”。于是,作为某位大洋洲歌手的忠实粉丝,他选定了凯莉(Kylie)。对于 Young 来说,凯莉的名字——被她快乐的流行巨星光环所点缀——以及流行音乐整体带来的逃避主义,既是俏皮的分心之举,也是治愈的良药。

迈克尔·克拉格(Michael Cragg)所著的《无法将你移出我的脑海:寻找凯莉》(Can't Get You Out of My Head: In Search of Kylie)由 Faber 出版。

科技

色情产业构建的世界

📄 外文原文 ↗

成人产业展示了亲密关系和情感如何被商品化,并按照其自身的形象塑造了互联网。作者:Marie Le Conte

《罪恶快感》(Guilty Pleasure)

帕特里夏·尼尔森(Patricia Nilsson)著

Allen Lane 出版,£25,288页

每当讨论色情内容时,人们通常会迅速分派阵营。它是在摧毁我们的性生活吗?它仅仅是娱乐吗?它本质上是厌女的,还是女权主义的,亦或是两者兼有,或者两者都不是?记者帕特里夏·尼尔森在《罪恶快感》中用了超过 200 页来讨论这个行业,但从未回答过其中任何一个问题。在某种程度上,这正是她的核心观点:色情内容总是被转化为一场辩论,而我们本应关注的是它在物质和客观现实层面的存在。

她的论点是,“如今,色情内容不再仅仅关乎性;其通过刺激来捕捉注意力、让我们处于观看状态而非行动状态的逻辑,已经深深植根于网络世界之中”。由于其病毒式的传播,所有休闲活动——无论是否具有感官刺激——都变成了一个“强迫性自我满足的无尽循环:渴望、刺激和暂时的缓解”。简而言之:万物皆色情,而色情本身却什么也没提供。

她巧妙地阐述了这一理论。你喜欢网上购物吗?那么你应该感谢 Babes4U,这是一个在 1990 年代中期流行的早期摄像头女郎(camgirl)网站,表演者在其中鼓励观众提供信用卡号。用其创始人玛德琳·阿尔特曼(Madeleine Altmann)的话来说,“人们为了性会做疯狂的事情”。

更广泛地说,摄像头女郎(以及热爱她们的男性)的需求,让我们现在依赖的许多功能得以实现,从高质量的视频流到用户友好的界面。

不出所料,并非所有变化都是积极的。你可能从未听说过法比安·蒂尔曼(Fabien Thylmann),但你一定知道他的作品。他曾是 Pornhub、YouPorn、RedTube 等多个色情网站背后的操盘手,这些网站全部隶属于一家名为 Manwin 的母公司。他之所以能买下所有这些网站,得益于他在 1990 年代开发的一款软件,该软件能帮助网站运营商追踪用户点击的广告和链接。

如果你曾因为在网上看到推荐而购买过某种商品,那么蒂尔曼就是你生活的一部分。天哪,如果你在过去几年中消费过任何在线内容,那么你就是被那些最初由成人产业开发的技术所吸引而进来的。

1996年,在线性产业早期,加利福尼亚州一家名为 Virtual Dreams 公司的摄像头女郎。Paul Harris / Getty Images

《观察者报》商店

📄 外文原文 ↗

《观察者报》订阅者作为文化俱乐部(Culture Club)成员可享受 20% 的折扣

正如她所解释的,2010 年代智能手机和广告拦截器的普及导致曾经依赖横幅广告的成人网站收入下降。这迫使色情大亨们开始将他们悄悄收集的行为数据利用起来,既将其出售给第三方,也由他们自己利用这些数据来进一步量身定制内容。到 2019 年,Pornhub 被发现处于“数据驱动创意”的前沿,制片厂根据用户被什么吸引的极其精确且细致的信息(从具体的性行为到布景家具的颜色)来决定制作和推广什么内容。

所有书籍均可在 observershop.co.uk 购买

在他人之前发生变化。因此,尼尔森(Nilsson)在讨论稍微无形一些的转变时最具说服力。例如,她解释说,“从 tube 类网站传播到整个互联网的色情逻辑,将强度置于一切之上。你感觉如何并不重要 [...] 这种商业模式只需要你对此有更强烈的感觉”,这听起来显然且令人愉悦地真实。

她令人信服地论证道,所有参与注意力经济的人——“从直播亲人去世而流泪的影响者,到煽动政治愤怒的愤怒诱饵(rage-baiting)活动人士”——都在以一种由镜头前进行性行为的人所开创的方式销售亲密感和情感。尽管人工智能(AI)仅在结尾处被简略提及,但她还将女主播(camgirls)那种乐观、赞美——只要能让付费客户留在网上就行!——的语气与聊天机器人的谄媚联系起来。

这里存在一个鸡生蛋还是蛋生鸡的问题:目前尚不清楚色情内容是催化剂,还是该行业由于其极强的在线属性,恰好经历了一些不可避免的

某些理论则走得更远。根据尼尔森的说法,硬核色情内容兴起的主要原因之一是,在线观众由于长期盯着屏幕生活导致感官迟钝,幸好他们没有一夜之间全部变成虐待狂,而是渴望能接触到任何原始的情感。正如她采访的一位影响者所说,“对观众的吸引力似乎在于知道屏幕另一端正在发生真实的事情,且在摄像机关闭后,其影响仍会持续”。

这是一段关于一名性工作者收到在镜头前自残请求的引用,但它也可以轻易地适用于活动人士的直接行动、煽动者的愤怒演讲。

这本读起来本该令人沮丧的书,但尼尔森的观察却能让你保持兴致

📄 外文原文 ↗

或者,在适当的情况下,任何人在网上谈论任何事情都是如此。在书的开头,蒂尔曼抱怨人们拒绝投资这样一个低俗的行业。在他看来,这些人没能意识到“在网上,内容本身并不重要,只要能让人们不断回来即可”。这在当时对于色情内容或许是事实,但对于如今的整个互联网来说,绝对是事实。

这本读起来本该令人沮丧,但令人欣慰的是,尼尔森的观察和文笔总能让你保持兴致:从两人见面时蒂尔曼被描述为留着“一个小莫霍克发型”,到一名被 Visa 招募以调查其与色情产业关系的前 FBI💡 探员被叫做“迪克·赫尔德”(Dick Held)。

还有一个维也纳的技术创业者,因为爱上了一名天主教女性,正试图匆忙出售他拥有的色情网站,并想用所得资金启动“一个基于与 RedTube 相同前提构建的网站,但将色情内容替换为它自称的世界最大免费基督教视频内容库”。在《罪恶快感》(Guilty Pleasure)中,几乎没有一个乏味的时刻。

事实上,尼尔森为她所指出的问题提供了一剂解药。她认为,色情化的互联网崇尚“没有参与或满足感的刺激”,并且具有疏离感,“升级且强迫性”。相比之下,她的书内容充实、丰富且足够令人愉悦,让你感到满足——就像是在进行性行为,而不仅仅是观看。

小说

那些离开的人

📄 外文原文 ↗

《侵犯》(Trespasses)的作者

路易丝·肯尼迪

这部带有俏皮阴暗色彩的小说

记录了一名年轻

爱尔兰女性

寻找接纳与

爱情的历程。作者:莎拉·莫斯

《车站》(Stations)

路易丝·肯尼迪 著

Bloomsbury 出版,£20,304页

路易丝·肯尼迪屡获殊荣的 2022 年处女作《侵犯》——该书去年被改编为电视迷你剧——证明了她能将短篇小说中的美感与精准度延续到一部结构严谨的长篇小说中。这本可能会成为一个难以超越的起点。

《车站》具有一些与《侵犯》相同的关注点和特质。两本书都以 20 世纪后期的年轻爱尔兰女性的生活为中心,关注女性在家庭领域之外的关系,并致力于写实主义的家庭生活以及对物质文化的精准、感官式的观察。但《车站》允许自己以一种在《侵犯》中因贝尔法斯特动荡背景而自然被压抑的方式,变得幽默且狂野。在这里,文字和核心角色罗辛(Róisín)都运用了一种俏皮的阴暗感,我觉得这令人深感满足。

我们初见罗辛是在 1982 年她还是个青少年时,她因为北爱尔兰的背景和失踪的父亲在学校被欺负。由于在折磨她的头目蒂娜·多伊尔(Tina Doyle)面前“保持信用是审慎的”,罗辛将她的信息传达给镇上极具魅力的坏男孩红·卡梅林(Red Camelin),他在学校里被人们“兴奋地低声议论”。红意识到了罗辛的聪明,并与她对书籍和音乐的兴趣相契合:“她喜欢他说话的方式。讽刺,略显正式。”(这是一个极佳的近距离第三人称叙述运用。我们已经通过肯尼迪出色的对话描写知道了红如何说话,而现在我们知道了罗辛描述对话的词汇和品味。这种细微的三角定位正是这种视角的精髓所在。)

罗辛向红介绍了她的单身母亲、她的家以及她的历史。她的父亲曾在皇家北爱尔兰警察局(RUC)工作,但匆忙离开了他在北爱尔兰的家乡克罗斯马格伦(Crossmaglen),带着妻子和女儿来到爱尔兰共和国的一个社区,在那里她们永远无法被完全接纳,随后他死于创伤后应激障碍(PTSD)并离开了她们。关于爱尔兰家庭生活的文学作品通常对沉默和否认深感兴趣—。

Stations 在某种程度上允许自己展现幽默,而这种幽默在以动荡的贝尔法斯特为背景的《Trespasses》中是被压抑的

📄 外文原文 ↗

这一点在书的后面会出现——而罗辛(Róisín)的直率令人耳目一新。她还爱说脏话且心存怀疑,这些品质通常被她的母亲乌娜(Una)以一种打破常规的方式所欣赏。

雷德(Red)以其惊人的魅力和掩饰得并不太好的脆弱吸引了乌娜。虽然很少被公开提及,但众所周知雷德的父亲虐待妻子和儿子,他的老师们意识到了这个问题,因此愿意说服当地的卫兵(Garda)对他轻微的犯罪行为宽大处理。罗辛被雷德的阅读量和机智的谈吐所吸引,几乎没有注意到他的困扰,并且对他提供的酒类和药物感到印象深刻。她坠入了爱河。而他似乎犹豫不决,不能或者说并不完全愿意回报这份感情,其原因直到许多年后才会揭晓。

两年后,他们在圣诞节期间于伦敦再次相遇。此前,罗辛在发现父亲和他的新伴侣有了孩子后,愤怒地逃离了父亲的新家。她出现在“皮姆利科(Pimlico)最后一处非法占用房”的门前(那是当年的时光),发现雷德与一群年轻的爱尔兰人共同居住在一栋大型乔治亚风格的排屋中,生活在一种近乎肮脏的、充满魅力的破败之中。在那些年里,英国的建筑业依赖于爱尔兰工人,而保守主义和贫困正驱动着一代人离开爱尔兰。与此同时,爱尔兰共和军(IRA)的爆炸袭击加剧了英国人对爱尔兰人长期存在的偏见。肯尼迪(Kennedy)轻盈且坚定地处理了这一时刻和背景:没有多余的解释,也没有令人困惑的假设。特别是对于国际读者来说,这是一个微妙的平衡,这既是通过对虚构世界的完整文学呈现实现的,也是通过将信息融入内心独白实现的。

随着雷德陷入贩毒随后又陷入成瘾,罗辛遵循了自己破坏性较低的本能:她辍学了,大部分时间在避免与母亲接触,并在低薪工作中漂泊。然而,尽管她没有意识到这是一种优势,但她很擅长建立人际关系。她在非法占用房、工作中以及酒吧里遇到的绝大多数人都喜欢她并想要保护她。

小说中最单薄的写作是对罗辛在伦敦遇到的英国角色的刻画。其中有奥克塔维亚(Octavia),她与她的贵族父亲住在一个经过绅士化改造的

小说

一项巨大的工程(A mimmoth undertaking)

📄 外文原文 ↗

娜奥米·奥尔德曼(Naomi Alderman)将虚构与回忆录巧妙结合,在个人丧亲之痛与发现奇妙新物种之间取得了平衡。作者:艾伦·皮尔森-哈格尔(Ellen Peirson-Hagger)

《陌生人》(The Strangers),娜奥米·奥尔德曼著,Fig Tree出版社,£20,288页

娜奥米·奥尔德曼的新书是一部想象力的杰作,且具有强烈的情感冲击力。本书部分为推测小说,部分为回忆录,讲述了一位名叫娜奥米·奥尔德曼的小说家在母亲去世后几个月里的经历。为了帮助父亲走出悲痛,她帮他在花园里安装了摄像头,以捕捉野生动物的影像。

正如预期的那样,他们不仅瞥见了狐狸,还发现了一个事实证明是全新物种的生物。这种动物是一种哺乳动物,有四只脚,眼睛长在头部前方,口鼻部“狭窄且像管子一样,奇特而柔软”。

这种生物后来被称为“mimmoth”(微象),源自“mini mammoth”(迷你猛犸象),很快在英国乃至全世界都被发现。没有人知道这些微象来自哪里,也不知道它们想要什么,但它们被广泛认为是智能生物,满足于捕食老鼠和鸽子,并且会进行极其精彩的舞蹈:“它们向自己围成的圆圈中心冲去。向左迈步。以一种有序且催眠的节奏向右迈步……如果不止一只,它们有时会将象鼻交织在一起,共同在圆圈中起舞,轻快地跳跃和蹦跳。”只要人类不打扰它们,它们就不会打扰我们。

尽管如此,右翼分子不可避免地开始愤怒地攻击这些微象;有些人开枪射杀或试图捕捉它们。然而,在英国发现这些生物后,人类的预期寿命反而提高了。随后,奥尔德曼卷入了一场令人觉得有趣的

这种动物是一种哺乳动物,拥有一个“狭窄且像管子一样,奇特且柔软”的口鼻

📄 外文原文 ↗

一个狡诈的政府环境官员出示了证据,表明在所有猛犸象(mimmoth)被杀害的地方,女性都无法受孕。

自从开始阅读这部小说以来,我大脑中负责分析的部分一直在试图确定,阿尔德曼(Alderman)——这位包括《权力》(The Power)和《未来》(The Future)在内的科幻畅销书作者——是将猛犸象作为什么的隐喻。是悲伤——那种作为冲击而至,但很快便变得熟悉的衰弱感?是人工智能或我们最恐惧的未来技术的替代品?还是关于我们在气候危机中应负责任的陈述?我后来决定,这种显性的解码错过了重点。这部令人惊讶且凄美的书籍潜藏在一个远为陌生——也就是说,远为人性化——的世界中,

探讨神圣与世俗:路易丝·肯尼迪(Louise Kennedy)。

Ellius Grace / 纽约时报 / Redux / eyevine

– 这种简单的信息永远无法提供。

随着阿尔德曼以困惑而兴奋的情绪叙述世界对猛犸象存在的反应,她也将我们带入她的自传——她成长于但后来放弃的正统犹太教,她多次流产的经历,以及她经常紧张的

与母亲的关系,尤其是关于母亲对待阿尔德曼体重的态度。她的披露在雄辩与令人心碎的实事求是之间取得了平衡。“我的体型,无论它是正确还是错误,一直是我和母亲之间的一道深伤,在靠近棚屋的房子附近,并从雷德(Red)那里购买药物,但同时也将他视为朋友。奥克塔维亚(Octavia)穿着粗花呢和丝绸拖鞋,看起来“像末代沙皇的女儿一样,带着深褐色调”,后来将在巴斯市中心开一家非常豪华的室内装饰店。还有盖伊(Guy),罗辛(Róisín)在一家银行做数据录入时遇到了他,他在那里从事并购工作。事实证明他曾在牛津大学与奥克塔维亚一起学习哲学、政治学和经济学(PPE),并向罗辛介绍了他在亨利(Henley)的父母,那里有“真正像天鹅绒一样”的草坪,“戴着巴拿马帽和板球帽的男人在开启瓶盖,穿着劳拉·艾什莉(Laura Ashley)连衣裙的女人在黑表(Black Watch)和斯图尔特(Stewart)格子布上拆开格子衬里的野餐篮,水面在他们身后闪闪发光。”这些人物被观察得非常细致,服装和财产的细节被精心实现,但在一部原本深情投入于父母、教师、瘾君子和毒贩、无家可归者、欺凌者及其受害者、那些无法回家的人和那些无法离开的人之复杂且矛盾的人性的小说中,他们更像是漫画人物。

这在某种程度上是一部探索小说——罗辛在下半部分的大部分时间里都在试图寻找雷德——在某种程度上也是一部浪漫小说,每个人都在寻找爱。对于具有强情节的现实主义小说来说,结局很难处理,因为在现实生活中,情节很少,而未竟之志远多于结局,但肯尼迪找到了一种方法,在没有一丝虚伪的情况下为读者提供解决方案。

《侵犯》(Trespasses)这个标题指向了神圣与世俗,指向未经授权跨越边界的侵犯,以及主祷文请求原谅的过错。读者在这里可能会寻找类似的双关含义。维多利亚车站是一个关键点,都柏林的巴士在此往返,而且——在瑞安航空出现之前的日子里——大多数爱尔兰移民都经过这里。伦敦是由车站构成的,无论是隐喻的还是字面意义上的停靠点,但背景中也有十字架苦路站,那是我们停下来纪念苦难的地方。在某些方面,这是一部关于信仰与忧伤的小说,《车站》(Stations)是现实主义小说的胜利。

“我生命中的日子,”她在其中一章的开头这样写道。在 80 多页之后,她写下了更为痛苦的话语:“失去母亲是一个已经开始愈合的干净伤口,但失去孩子们的伤口仍在流血。”

如果对书名进行最直接的解读,那么“陌生人”指的是猛犸象。然而,奥尔德曼很快对它们产生了喜爱之情,并很快地与它们建立了亲密的关系;花园里的一位常客甚至拥抱了她,用它的长鼻抚摸她的手。那些陌生人同样可以是奥尔德曼和她的母亲,或者事实上是我们所有人类——在死亡夺走挚爱之人、我们围坐在一起感叹时光流逝之前,我们彼此永远是陌生人。

本周平装书推荐 作者:克里斯·鲍尔 (Chris Power)

📄 外文原文 ↗

英国读者终于得以在一部幽默、令人惊喜且优美的散文集中,迟到地接触到作家玛丽·鲁弗尔 (Mary Ruefle) 独特的精神世界。

《金色碎屑》(Golden Crumbs)

玛丽·鲁弗尔 (Mary Ruefle) 著

Fitzcarraldo 出版,£14.99,264页

判断玛丽·鲁弗尔是否适合你的一个快捷方法,就是完整阅读她的故事《吠叫》(The Bark):“我带着我的狗去湖边,它站在水边吠叫,吠叫的回声传了回来,于是它对着回声吠叫,一次又一次地对着自己的回声吠叫,以为湖的另一边有另一只狗。欢迎来到诗歌的世界,我说。”如果你觉得这 53 个词像我一样令人无法抗拒,那么你将从《金色碎屑》中获益匪浅。

自 20 世纪 80 年代以来,鲁弗尔在美国出版了 20 本诗集和散文集,但直到现在,其中没有一本有英国版本。《金色碎屑》收集了其中的三部——《绝大部分》(The Most of It, 2008)、《我的私有财产》(My Private Property, 2016) 和《这本书》(The Book, 2023)——其中包含的作品介于散文诗、随笔和短篇小说之间。鲁弗尔对这些形式之间的模糊界限持放松态度;当一名采访者问她如何划分这些界限时,她回答道:“坦白说,我在这个世界上剩下的时间已经不够用来做这件事了。”

她的作品幽默、令人惊喜、忧郁且优美。它在对平凡事物的创造性倾斜(例如与街道清洁车的相遇)和更具高概念的想法(一片被云层覆盖的土地)之间摆动。我想说,她最接近的同行是莉迪亚·戴维斯 (Lydia Davis)、唐纳德·巴塞姆 (Donald Barthelme) 和伊塔洛·卡尔维诺 (Italo Calvino)。像他们每一个人一样,她是一个真正意义上的实验作家:她不断尝试新事物,虽然并非总能成功。但当成功时,你会体验到开拓新领域的快感。

这本书提供了一个极佳的教训,即创造戏剧冲突所需的元素竟如此之少。虽然有时确实会发生值得关注的事情——房屋被淹、朋友去世、警察审讯——但其他篇章的紧迫感则源自一段记忆错误的俳句、圣诞装饰品的景象,或是风将一封被撕碎的信件残片吹散在灌木丛中。

有时,她从一个可能是错误的地方开始,无论是刻意的还是人为制造的。“我的父亲是一个日记农民 (diary farmer),”其中一篇这样开头,我的拼写检查软件极力想要纠正这个句子。鲁弗尔顺着这个巧思写下去,她描述的农场拥有一群一百本日记、四本日志以及“一小批供我们个人使用的笔记本”。

《金色碎屑》中的一些想法无疑是独特思维的产物。但在某些情况下,萌发的想法却是平凡的,是任何人都可能想到的事情。在这些例子中,鲁弗尔的独特之处在于她会继续思考这些微小的瞬间,而我们大多数人则任由这些瞬间在生命中每一分钟流经的碎片信息洪流中被冲走。通过将这些被遗忘的碎片从湮灭中拯救出来,并将注意力的光束聚焦其上,她在日常生活中找到了隐藏的门。

她这个计划中内在的讽刺之处在于,她从被遗忘中拯救出来的东西,反过来又变成了另一种被遗忘的东西,她反复痴迷的一个点就是我们对阅读内容保留得多么少。在《关于我多年前阅读且从未忘记的莉迪亚·戴维斯故事的记忆》中,戴维斯 12 页的故事《瓦西里生活素描》(Sketches for a Life of Wassilly) 被浓缩成了仅 70 个词。“这纯粹是一次关于文学记忆的个人练习,”鲁弗尔在书末的注释中写道,“我在各方面都失败了。但是”——她继续写道,得出的结论并非绝望(如果我没有她的视角,我的结论将会如此),而是充满了惊奇——“它证明了我一直以来的怀疑——我们读过并热爱过的东西,我们什么都不记得,只记得我们热爱过它。爱是我们阅读生涯中留下的唯一东西。你自己试试吧,祝好运!”

《观察者报》商店

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本月儿童书籍

诡谲与奇妙

📄 外文原文 ↗

秋季的儿童章节书以鬼魂、半神、分身以及陷入危机的家庭等故事,捕捉万圣节的惊悚与寒意。作者:Kitty Empire

这是惊悚季节的前夕。矛盾的是,由于恐怖类书籍现在全年发行,且更温和的恐怖形式正逐渐渗透到中年级儿童群体中,万圣节现在感觉不再像是一个年度出版盛事。

但对“诡谲”的追求依然存在。定居塞勒姆的青少年小说作者 Freddie Kölsch 以《Spindlewood》(Puffin, £8.99)开启了她的中年级处女作,这也是该系列的第一部。这部作品带有愉悦的哥特风格,成功地借鉴了 Lemony Snicket 和《星期三》的风格,并利用了熟悉的偏远学校设定。非二元性别和神经多样性的学生为这座霍格沃茨式的堡垒带来了新鲜气息。

理性主义者 Lilac Black 震惊地发现鬼魂确实存在,她的家人是“先知”,而且她必须立即被送到 Spindlewood 学校。然而,Lilac 一直在伪装她的“视觉”,她必须凭借机智在这座离奇的学院中生存,否则将被开除并被抹除记忆。在一次 Lilac 意识到涉及其祖先的学校危机中,她被迫向她可能暗恋的 Emmanuelle 透露自己的秘密。

英国多产作家 Darren Simpson 对惊悚有截然不同的诠释:《Lykewise》(Pushkin, £8.99)是一部民俗恐怖小说,背景设定在

神话怪兽大师、“《波西·杰克逊》作者”Rick Riordan 再次回归

一个偏远的沼泽地。这里没有任何讽刺,雾气弥漫、泥泞不堪的 Harrowmere 村迎来了一位神秘的巡回镜子销售商。

自然地,三个年轻朋友开玩笑讨论他们听到的仪式——据说站在两面镜子之间可能会揭示真实的自我。鲁莽的 Hetty 尝试了这样做。是的,她释放了一个被称为“lykewise”的荣格阴影,这个阴影执行她最复仇的倾向。这部关于我们每个人内心潜在恶者的紧张小说,由于包含一些血腥内容,可能更适合 6 年级及以上的学生。

诡异的乐趣(从左近顺时针方向):《The Wild Zone》,《Girl With a Sabretooth Tiger》场景,以及《Spindlewood》。

Sonia Albert / Virginia

Allyn / Jay Bendt

较不那么明显诡异的是 Kiran Millwood Hargrave 的《The Raven's Gift》(Starboard, £14.99)。主角是青少年,主题通常较为沉重,但 Tom de Freston 华丽的插图使这本书适用于中年级。

当她发现父亲实际上并没有去探望奶奶的护理院时,她变得焦虑不安。为了寻找真相,焦虑的 Luna、她滑滑板的妹妹 Jade 以及好友 Casey 冒险进入未知领域——在本例中是一个河边的垃圾场——在那里,Luna 的坚韧导致了一项意外发现。

克服恐惧依然是所有季节的主题。《Girl With a Sabretooth Tiger》(Chicken House, £7.99)是获奖作者 Jasbinder Bilan 的最新作品,这是一个设定在欧洲新石器时代的沉浸式探索故事,其目标受众比 Michelle Paver 常青的《Chronicles of Ancient Darkness》系列更年轻。

十一岁的 Swallow 痴迷于部落的神话。当她偷偷溜出营地,去寻找一块来自遥远山脉、可能救妹妹性命的疗愈翡翠时,她必须调用她剑齿虎吊坠的所有力量。但这仅仅是一个传说吗?Bilan 笔下的史前设定栩栩如生,她致力于将精神世界编织进年轻英雄的现实之中。

发件人:

日期:5 Jun at 09:40

主题:关于您的 Vitsoe 订单

收件人:email@vitsoe.com

你好 Andrea。

哈里的姐姐弗兰基去世了,整个家庭陷入了混乱。哈里发现弗兰基曾在卧室窗前喂养一只渡鸦,并在她的爱伦·坡作品集里做笔记;他逐渐地与姐姐建立起某种联系。哈里的康复过程并非线性。他试图追求姐姐最好的朋友。他的梦境令人迷茫。但这本书正因为其令人心酸的真实感而更显出色,哈格雷夫非常擅长地传达出家庭悲恸中那种不恰当的情绪和笨拙的补偿心理。

我一直想发一封简短的跟进邮件。再次感谢您在4月底将工具 / 说明书寄到我蒙特利尔的地址。

恐惧有多种形式,并非全部来自超自然。在 SE Durrant 的《Into Thin Air》(Nosy Crow 出版,£7.99)中,一位压力巨大的父亲失踪了。自从他们的咖啡馆倒闭后,露娜的

书架终于在5月初安装完毕,在此之前我从3月中旬就开始热切期待。我太喜欢它们了!

再次感谢,

我很喜欢这些书架在我安装过的每一套公寓、每一个城市中都能呈现出截然不同的感觉。一如既往的卓越 Vitsoe 服务,非常感谢。

(如果好奇,附上书架安装后的照片;它们在我工作室公寓中将睡眠区和生活区分开。)

神话怪兽大师、 “《波西·杰克逊》作者”里克·里奥丹再次回归。他希腊神话宇宙的最新系列回到了混血营,引入了一组新角色。由他与 Annabelle Oh 合著的《The Wild Zone》(Puffin 出版,£16.99)讲述了一位韩裔美国主角凯蒂·金的故事,尽管那片充满危险的森林是禁区,但她的舍友们被迫随她一起穿过营地边缘的“野生区”(Wild Zone)。

父母们

一直在

没日没夜地工作,

但食品依然匮乏。

当其中一人未能生还时,凯蒂被迫发起一次秘密救援行动。一如既往,里奥丹的作品充满了动作戏和俏皮话,随后一系列线索引导至一个真正令人惊叹的悬念结局。

露娜直到现在

还痴迷于

国际

空间站,

这些书籍采访

李翊云:“死亡对我而言并不陌生”

📄 外文原文 ↗

中国出生的作家讲述她失去两个儿子的自杀悲剧,以及她为何为了创作新小说而学习钢琴。作者:Ellen Peirson-Hagger

李翊云,53岁,是一位作家,同时也是普林斯顿大学的教授。她出生于中国北京,1996年移居美国,并完全使用英文写作。她的作品包括短篇小说集《千年祈祷》(A Thousand Years of Good Prayers)、小说《理由尽头》(Where Reasons End)和《鹅之书》(The Book of Goose),以及在2026年获得普利策奖的回忆录《自然之物仅是生长》(Things in Nature Merely Grow)。她的最新小说是《对抗黑夜的音乐》(Music Against the Night),这是一部虚构作品,讲述了约翰·菲尔德(John Field,1782年出生于爱尔兰的作曲家)及其妻子阿德莱德·佩谢隆(Adelaide Percheron,1790年出生于法属印度殖民地庞迪切里,同样梦想成为一名音乐家)的早年生活。该书预计将成为三部曲的第一部。

您最初是如何了解到约翰·菲尔德的?

📄 外文原文 ↗

我在托尔斯泰的书里遇到了他。托尔斯泰写了一部三卷本的自传,第一卷讲述的是他的童年。他描述了听母亲演奏约翰·菲尔德作品的情景。他描述了音乐的情绪、色彩和梦幻般的形态。我以前从未听说过约翰·菲尔德,当时我想:他是谁?

他身上有什么吸引您的吗?我找到了一本非常薄的约翰·菲尔德传记。传记中对他妻子的描写极少,这让我觉得很有意思。关于阿德莱德·佩谢隆(或称佩谢雷特)的内容可能不超过五个段落,但我们知道她出生在庞迪切里,并前往莫斯科。她想成为一名音乐家。这是一个极具吸引力的故事线。我想:这两个人的生活将成为我的主题。

您在故事开头先写佩谢雷特得知约翰去世的消息,然后才将时间线拉回过去。为什么这样开始?

📄 外文原文 ↗

让读者知道约翰·菲尔德在哪里终结是很重要的。他几乎成功了——他是一个小有名气的人,但不像莫扎特、肖邦或贝多芬那样永恒。而她,当然,如今已无人知晓。我确信她的音乐已经全部失传。当你预知未来,而他们仍有一段人生路径需要走完时,这很有趣。这与现实生活不同:我们不知道自己的未来,必须通过生活去发现。但在这里,我知道结局,读者也知道结局。这对我们来说,从同一页开始很重要。

您的研究过程是怎样的?我阅读了大量关于音乐家、钢琴工业、音乐出版的资料……庞迪切里的历史又是另一回事。我不知道这是否说明了我们遗忘了多少历史,但虽然大家都知道英国人曾在印度,但很少有人知道法属印度。我对此做了大量研究。当然还有关于莫斯科的研究。但我最大的挑战是开始学习钢琴。

请详细说说。

📄 外文原文 ↗

我不是音乐家,也没有音乐背景。起初我想:如果我想写这个,我需要知道如何弹钢琴。我去找了一位老师,起初她并不太感兴趣——她通常不接收成年学生。然后我用一份书籍提案进行了“试镜”。我说:“我要写这些人,这意味着我需要了解音乐。”她被打动了,于是接收了我。

作为一名成年人,学习一项新技能的感觉如何?

📄 外文原文 ↗

当我告诉我的编辑时,她说:“天哪,你这是在用‘体验派’方法创作。”知道自己有些事情做得非常糟糕其实是一件好事。当然,我想弹得好,但我感觉压力很小,因为我知道我永远不可能像那些上课的孩子那样优秀。但了解约翰和佩谢雷特在开始时在做什么,比如练习音阶……对我来说,模仿他们在键盘上的动作很重要。我的老师给了我一首约翰·菲尔德的夜曲尝试练习,我的意思是,虽然我还不够熟练,但我已经在弹了。目前我在弹克莱门蒂(Clementi)和车尔尼(Czerny)。

李翊云

由 Maria Spann 为

《观察者报》

在普林斯顿拍摄。

《观察者报》商店

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作为

文化俱乐部(Culture Club)的一部分

您为什么关注角色的童年?

📄 外文原文 ↗

我曾与另一位小说家交谈,对方说:“为什么要费心写他们的童年?直接让他们以成年人的身份登场不就好了。”但这与我作为一个人的所有感受都背道而驰。让我们与约翰(John)和佩切雷特(Percherette)一起成长,去了解身处他们那小小身体中的感受,这一点至关重要。

当代文学中是否有足够的关于童年的优秀刻画?没有。我想知道这是否反映了我们的社会。当我的孩子们在幼儿园时,老师写了一封信投诉一篇新闻报道。她说:“所有的报纸在谈论儿童教育时,都将其视为对未来生活的准备,但一个三岁孩子此时此刻所经历的生活,与你们所有人一样真实。”这种表达方式太棒了。人们在某种程度上忽略了孩子也是真实的人。将孩子视为真实的人,而不是“前人类”,这一点非常重要。

您写到了自己曾尝试自杀,以及您两个儿子的自杀——文森特(Vincent)在 2017年去世时 16 岁,詹姆斯(James)在 2024年去世时 19 岁。写作是否为您提供了逃离创伤的出口?

当然,我的生活并不容易。当我创作《音乐对抗黑夜》(Music Against the Night)时——我知道这听起来极其荒诞,但我不认为它荒诞

——我对最好的朋友说:“我把我所知道的关于生活的每一件事都写进了这部小说里。”所以我认为这并非一种逃避,而是一个通过他人的经历来思考生活的空间。死亡对我来说并不陌生。但这部小说的创作支撑了我。

您之前说过您反对“悲恸”(grief)这个词。现在您对此怎么看?

📄 外文原文 ↗

我学到的一件事是,你永远不能说你处于某件事的终点,因为在那个终点之后总会有新的东西出现。在个人层面,当然,我们不再拥有孩子们了。从这个意义上说,这种情况永远不会改变,我也不会回避这个事实 [尽管] 有时人们在我身边会感到犹豫。悲恸将永远持续下去。但同时也有一个理性的思考方式:我们并没有被困在文森特去世的那一刻,也没有被困在詹姆斯去世的那一刻。我正在观察时间如何在我的生命中流逝,以及它如何以一种与大多数人不同的方式流逝。

李翊云的《音乐对抗黑夜》由 Fourth Estate 出版社于 22 October 出版(售价 £20)

劳拉·卡明(Laura Cumming)的猜图游戏

📄 外文原文 ↗

本周问题:上图是什么,是谁的作品?答案将于下周日公布。

上周的细节展示了丹麦画家维尔海姆·哈默舍伊(Vilhelm Hammershoi)约 1900年创作的《艺术家之家的室内》(Interior from the Home of the Artist)左侧的椅子。哈默舍伊艺术中的静谧感是独一无二的。他满足于日复一日、年复一年地在同样的几间刷白房间里徘徊,描绘他几乎从未离开过的哥本哈根公寓中完美的寂静。房间里光秃秃的地板和擦亮的家具,刻意地显得空旷。门后仅是其他的门和更深处的房间。甚至窗户望出去也只是其他的窗户,或是朦胧光线下的墙壁。这里没有通往外界的出口,甚至哈默舍伊的妻子也几乎不可见。艺术家说,只有在这间公寓的家中,他才感到幸福。这幅画作现藏于芬兰国家美术馆。

经典数独

📄 外文原文 ↗

请使用数字 1 到 9 填充空白单元格。

| < / > 4< / > 5< / > 6< / > < / > | < / > 7< / > 8< / > < / > 1< / > 3< / > < / > 6< / > < / >< / > < / > < / > 1< / > 8< / > < / >< / > < / > < / > 1< / > 3< / > 8< / > < / >< / > < / > < / > 6< / > 7< / > < / >< / > < / > 8< / > 2< / > < / > 5< / > 7< / > < / > 4< / > < / >< / > < / > < / > 3< / > 4< / > < / > 9< / > < / >< / > 5< / > < / > 1< / > < / >< / > < / > < / > 6< / > 8< / > < / > 4< / > < / > |

每个数字在每一行、每一列以及每个 3x3 宫格中必须且只能出现一次。

答案 No. 4,171

Everyman No. 4,170

K Geary, Norfolk

Alastair Nixon, Surrey

Sarah Ryder, Sheffield

Martin Watson, Ayr

Peter Woodcock, Sheffield

已填充

Caitlin O'Kane 的《观察者报》谜题时事通讯迎来一周年纪念

将《观察者报》的最佳内容直接发送至您的收件箱

垂直线

Azed No. 2,784 - 普通

📄 外文原文 ↗

1< / > 2< / > 3< / > 4< / > 5< / > 6< / > < / > 7< / > 8< / > 9< / > < / > 10< / >< / > 11< / > < / > 12< / > < / > 13< / > < / >< / > 14< / > < / > < / > < / >< / > 15< / > < / > 16< / > < / >< / > 17< / > < / > 18< / > 19< / > < / >< / > 20< / > < / > 21< / > < / > 22< / > < / > 23< / > < / >< / > 24< / > < / > 25< / > < / >< / > 26< / > < / > 27< / > < / > 28< / >< / > 29< / > < / > 30< / > < / > 31< / > 32< / > < / >< / > < / > < / > 33< / > < / >< / > 34< / > < / > 35< / > < / >< / > 36< / > < / > < / > < / > |

姓名< / >< / > 地址< / > |

邮编

横向

📄 外文原文 ↗

4 水手可能挥舞的东西,正确吗? (9, 2个单词)

11 花花公子 / 浪子,从右向左,在格里高利节奏中并非首位 (6)

12 队列,在修整中注意 (6)

14 见放荡的开头,幻想的腿扭曲 (8)

15 司机避开环绕山脊的大部分 (4)

16 宣布单数转弯,关系被排除 (7)

17 一个模仿者转身揭示人格的最深处 (5)

19 仙女或管虫?并非如此 (7)

22 在外国城市中的海外石油商 (6)

24 “Salve”,跟随一个 R,即“吓跑” (6)

26 航海绳索例如扭曲地打开手臂 (7)

27 饮酒者被装瓶了?这些是不同的(来自东印度) (5)

29 在棕褐色的色调情节中不安地搅动 (7)

32 测量发光外观,非黄金 (4)

33 运行在海中并不常见 (8)

34 在以色列流传的故事 (6)

35 在填充夹克中按照儿子的方式行事 (6, 2个单词)

36 青少年关于蹒跚,像那条大道? (9)

纵向

📄 外文原文 ↗

1 假日奶酪包含三明治的开口 (5)

2 独特特征包括与没有行动之前的愤怒会面——恰恰相反 (11, 2个单词)

3 头皮病?艾里斯的头部包含它 (7)

5 泥炭来源从乔克的菜肴中被移除 (4)

6 前记录保留在剩余部分中 (6)

7 长时间我将被握在同伴手中——莉迪亚的另一个身份? (8)

8 你离开的王子以庄严的方式重新塑造 (7)

9 什么有点像 roti——其两半用于少量当地现金 (4)

10 曾经形成圣地的集合中的数字 (7)

13 倾倒过程,即包括大部分合唱作品在内的颂歌翻译 (11)

18 古怪的男爵,患病且功能失调 (8)

20 大垫子为中提琴手调整 (7)

21 孩子们用什么在混乱的坑周围建模 (7)

23 蔬菜缝在凹陷中,平静 (7)

25 男人们在中间支撑助手 (6)

28 蓝色中的名字用于泻药 (5)

30 运行不足一个世纪导致悲伤 (4)

31 曾经在苏格兰,祖先变得没有压力 (4)

---

推荐使用《钱伯斯词典》(2016年版)。

---

Azed 第 2,783 号解答与注释

$^{1}$ O | $^{2}$ R< / > $^{3}$ C< / > $^{4}$ H< / > E< / > $^{5}$ S< / > $^{6}$ T< / > $^{7}$ R< / > A< / > $^{8}$ T< / > $^{9}$ O< / > R< / > | $^{10}$ W< / > H< / > E< / > A< / > T< / > M< / > E< / > A< / > L< / > O< / > L< / > $^{11}$ F< / >< / > R< / > Y< / > D< / > $^{12}$ R< / > I< / > N< / > G< / > S< / > I< / > D< / > E< / >< / > $^{13}$ A< / > N< / > U< / > R< / > A< / > L< / > A< / > W< / > $^{14}$ G< / > L< / > E< / > N< / >< / > $^{15}$ P< / > E< / > L< / > O< / > T< / > A< / > $^{16}$ C< / > O< / > H< / > E< / > R< / > E< / >< / > $^{17}$ R< / > O< / > A< / > M< / > $^{18}$ S< / > $^{19}$ X< / > E< / > R< / > $^{20}$ O< / > T< / > E< / > S< / >< / > $^{21}$ A< / > U< / > $^{22}$ T< / > E< / > U< / > $^{23}$ R< / > $^{24}$ S< / > $^{25}$ T< / > U< / > $^{26}$ A< / > R< / > T< / >< / > $^{27}$ S< / > $^{28}$ T< / > E< / > R< / > N< / > E< / > $^{29}$ T< / > A< / > T< / > $^{30}$ L< / > E< / >< / > $^{31}$ C< / > A< / > N< / > G< / > R< / > A< / > R< / > $^{32}$ D< / > R< / > O< / > L< / >< / > $^{33}$ A< / > P< / > O< / > S< / > I< / > T< / > I< / > C< / > A< / > C< / > R< / > L< / >< / > L< / > P< / > U< / > $^{34}$ A< / > S< / > A< / > F< / > E< / > T< / > I< / > D< / > A< / >< / > $^{35}$ H< / > A< / > R< / > V< / > E< / > S< / > T< / > F< / > E< / > A< / > S< / > T< / > |

横向:12, 参见 bard hop; 20, ur(n) ge(n); 34, s(E)al(E)mon。

纵向:2, reste(D) in PL; 3, ear + end in defers; 4, (d)ecod(e); 17, dec(ay) in spark; 21, 'jock, O so'; 28, go re。

规则与要求

📄 外文原文 ↗

面向 18 岁或以上的英国居民开放。可通过邮寄或电子邮件参与;数字订阅用户也可在 observer.co.uk / puzzles 在线参与。

将随机抽取三个正确答案,每位获胜者将获得一张 £25 的图书代金券。

邮寄:Azed No. 2,784, The Observer, 22 Berners Street, London W1T 3LP。请随信附上填写完整的网格以及您的姓名和地址。

电子邮件:competitions@observer.co.uk。请附上您的网格照片或扫描件,或按线索编号列出答案(例如 1A: TICS)。邮件主题必须与印刷版中的谜题名称和编号一致(例如 "Azed No. 2,784"),否则无法受理。

在线和电子邮件投稿截止日期为出版后的周六。邮寄投稿必须在出版后的周六前盖戳,并在出版后十天内送达。

Azed 第 2,784 号获胜者将于 2026 年 11 月 1 日星期日公布。每人限投一份。

完整条款与条件:observer.co.uk / puzzles / everyman / article / crossword-prize-draws

Azed 第 2,783 号获奖者

📄 外文原文 ↗

R Ainslie, Montpellier, Cheltenham

C Clarke, 奖品待领;请通过电子邮件确认

D Preston, Barnstaple, Devon

Godefridus 的 Killer 数独

📄 外文原文 ↗

18 | 17< / > 17< / > < / > 19< / > 7< / > < / > 21< / > | < / > < / > 24< / > < / >< / > < / > < / > 28< / > 6< / > < / > 9< / > < / >< / > < / > < / > 16< / > 14< / > < / >< / > 9< / > < / > 15< / > < / > 25< / > < / > 7< / >< / > 26< / > < / > 15< / > < / > 9< / > < / >< / > < / > < / > 21< / > < / >< / > 18< / > 7< / > < / > 25< / > < / > 13< / > < / > 19< / > < / >< / > < / > < / > |

适用标准数独规则,但灰色线条内的单元格数字之和必须等于角落中的数值。在灰色线条形成的每个形状内,数字不得重复。

---

Jonathan Speelman 的国际象棋

图表 1

📄 外文原文 ↗

衷心祝贺 11 岁的 Bodhana Sivanandan,她在萨马尔罕代表英格兰队出战一号盘的卓越表现,使她成为了历史上最年轻的女子特级大师。在之前的对局中,Bodhana 建立了强大的深色格控制权,随后她通过 25 h3 Bf5 26 Nxf5 gxf5 27 Qe6+ Kg6 兑现了优势。你能看出她是如何以一种精妙且高效的方式结束战斗的吗?(见结尾。)

乌兹别克斯坦在主场赢得了第 46 届奥林匹克比赛,上周日在萨马尔罕的最后一轮中击败乌克兰,最终获得 20 / 22 个比赛分——10 场胜利,仅在对阵德国时输掉一场。紧随其后的是印度和德国,两队均获得 18 个比赛分,按破同分规则排序。

这是一次超级表现,乌兹别克斯坦在比赛中击败了所有主要对手,尤其是美国、印度和中国。他们的三名选手赢得了盘面奖牌,其中一号盘的 Nodirbek Abdusattorov 取得了全场最高的等级分表现 2869,领先于土耳其的青少年天才 Yağız Kaan Erdoğanş (2839) 和印度的 Rameshbabu Praggnanandhaa (2772)。在二号盘,世界冠军挑战者 Javokhir Sindarov 位列第三,落后于韦奕(中国)和 Jorden Van Foreest(荷兰)。在三号盘,Nodirbek Yakubboev 位列第二,仅次于 Frederik Svane(德国)。英格兰队(种子排名第 11)表现尚可,以 16 个比赛分排名第九。我们最出色的表现来自 Luke McShane,他在四号盘排名第五,仅休息一次,以 7.5 / 10 的不败战绩完赛,其中包括一场对阵印度选手 Nihal Sarin 的胜利。

排名第 60 位的苏格兰队以 12 个比赛分并列第 64 位。在一号盘,Freddie Gordon 取得了 6 / 9 的出色成绩。威尔士(排名第 100)和(统一的)爱尔兰(排名第 66)以 12 / 22 的相同分数组完赛。

中国队在同步举行的女子奥林匹克比赛中占据主导地位,以 20 / 22 个比赛分不败完赛,领先于哈萨克斯坦(20 分)和获得铜牌的印度,此外还有四支队伍获得 17 分。

种子排名第 20 位的英格兰队并列第 12 位。在一号盘,11 岁的 Bodhana Sivanandan 出战了每一局比赛,取得了 8 / 11 的辉煌成绩,包括六场胜利、四场平局和仅一场失利。她的棋风在今年有了巨大的成熟,在接下来的几年里关注她的进步将是非常有趣的。

Abdusattorov 的表现堪称非凡:以 8.5 / 11 的不败战绩完赛,前世界冠军丁立人和 Fabiano Caruana 都在他的六个胜局之列。

图表 2

📄 外文原文 ↗

29...f4? 推测是因为认为白方无法在 e5 处吃子。29...h6 是最好的机会,因为 30 Rxe5? 可以通过 Bxf3 来应对——现在这步棋可行,因为白方无法应对 31 Rg5。相反,30 b5 Ba8 极其复杂,尽管计算机确实更看好白方。

30 Rxe5! Rd2 如果 30...Bxf3? 31 Rg5! 或者 30...Rxf3 31 Re6 Qxe6 32 Rxe6 Rxf2 33 Kxf2,那么应该由兵来决定胜负。

31 R5e2 Rd1 32 b5 Bb7 33 Bb4

阿布都萨托罗夫现在完全掌控局面,只需稍加小心即可获胜。33...h6 34 c5 Qb1 35 Rb2 Qc1 36 c6 Rxe1+

37 Bxe1 Rd1 38 Re2 Bc8 39 Kh2 Kh7 40 Re5 Bf5 41 Qc5 Bc2 42 c7 Rxe1 43 Rxe1 Qxe1 44 Qxc2+ g6 45 Qe4 防止了长久将军,因此丁立人认输。

图表 3

📄 外文原文 ↗

36 h4 gxh4+?! 完全可以下,但现在王进来了。36...Rb4 37 hxg5 Rdd4 显然需要仔细检查,但事实上,例如在 38 Kh4 Rxg4+ 39 Kh5 Kf7 40 g6+ Kf8 41 f6 Rh4+ 42 Kg5 Rhg4+ 43 Kf5 gxf6 之后,白方的王和黑方一样暴露,结果是平局。37 Kxh4 Rd3 38 Rfe3 Kf8 39 Kh5 a5 40 Re7 Rxb3? 决定性的错误,因为现在白方的王要么能够落在 g6,要么他能获得决定性的先手。40...Rh3+! 41 Kg5 Rxb3 42 Rc7 Rh3! 43 Ree7 Rh7 看起来有点糟糕,但应该能守住。41 g5 Rb6 42 g6 威胁 Rf7+ 随后是 Ree7 42...Rf6 43 Kg5 Kg8 如果 43...a4 44 Rh2 Kg8 45 Rh7! 44 Rxg7+! Kxg7 45 Re7+ Kg8 46 Kxf6 a4 47 Rg7+ Kh8 48 Rxb7 Ra8

图表 4

📄 外文原文 ↗

49 Kg5 卡鲁阿纳认输,因为 49...a3 50 f6 a2 51 Rh7+ Kg8 52 f7+ Kf8 53 Rh8+ Ke7 54 Rxa8

在图表 1 之后

📄 外文原文 ↗

25 h3 Bf5 如果 25...Bf1 26 Qe6 则立即将死,或者 25...g5 26 hxg4 gxh4 27 Qe6+ Kg6 28 Qf5+ Kf7 29 Qxh5 将死。26 Nxf5 gxf5 27 Qe6+ Kg6 28 g4! fxg4 29 hxg4 hxg4 30 Qxg4+ Kh6 致命的后退。31 Ba3! 制造了无法回答的 32 Bc1 将死威胁,因此黑方认输。

Sivanandan(执白) v Deborah Quickpen

2 Nodirbek

Abdusattorov v

Ding Liren(执白)

3 N Abdusattorov(执白) v Fabiano Caruana

4 N Abdusattorov(执白) v Fabiano Caruana

Lexipedia 问答:关于审查制度,由 Joshua Blackburn 出题

📄 外文原文 ↗

1. “censor”这个词最初的拉丁语含义是什么?

A) 治安官

B) 铅笔

C) 障碍

D) 短剑

2. 哪部作品没有被天主教会禁止?

A) 《朱斯蒂娜》(萨德侯爵)

B) 《我的奋斗》(阿道夫·希特勒)

C) 《悲惨世界》(维克多·雨果)

D) 《罗马帝国衰亡史》(爱德华·吉本)

3. 一部被删除了冒犯性内容的文学作品被称作经历了什么?

A) 烙法处理 (Cauterised)

B) 委婉化 (Euphemised)

C) 鲍德勒化 (Bowdlerised)

D) 巴氏杀菌 (Pasteurised)

4. 哪个词的意思是“蓄意销毁书籍”?

A) Biblioclasm

B) Bookicide

C) Verbination

D) Textecution

5. 2025年哪个美国州禁书数量最多?

A) 佛罗里达州

B) 佐治亚州

C) 犹他州

D) 加利福尼亚州

6. 异端(Heresy)——与正统教义相反的信仰——源自希腊语 hairesis,其含义是什么?

A) 犯错

B) 走错路

C) 自行选择

D) 弄坏食物(例如盐放多了)

随机抽奖加分题

7. 因法律原因(如审查、法院命令或版权主张)而被拦截的在线内容的错误代码是什么?

A) Error 001

B) Error 123℃) Error 451

D) Error 999

答案在下方

谈谈……禁书

📄 外文原文 ↗

今天标志着“禁书周”的开始。在此期间,美国图书馆协会(ALA)会公布在过去 12 个月中,美国图书馆和学校中有多少书目受到了质疑并被禁。这一年度固定活动已经运行了 40 多年,它讲述了一个阴郁的故事。根据 ALA 的数据,2000 年有 378 部书目因要求从图书馆移除而受到质疑。在接下来的二十年里,这个数字有所下降,但在 2021 年骤增:当年有 1,858 部书目被要求移除;2022 年为 2,571 部;而在 2025, 4,235 部——这是禁书周历史上第二高的数据。一次质疑并不一定会导致禁书,但在 2025, 66% 的质疑导致图书馆移除了违规书目。

当然,禁书并非新鲜事。从 1440 年左右印刷机发明到第一本书被禁,用了不到 50 年——即 1487年的乔瓦尼·皮科·德拉·米兰多拉的《900 条论纲》。在这里,执行禁令的权威机构是天主教会,

它在禁书方面变得非常熟练。在 400 多年的时间里,梵蒂冈的《禁书目录》(Index Librorum Prohibitorum)一直是教会的官方黑名单。当它在 1966 年最终被废除时,其中包含约 4,300 条目,包括笛卡尔、康德、洛克、卢梭、伏尔泰等人的作品(但令人惊讶的是,没有查尔斯·达尔文的作品)。

在英国,尽管有第 28 条(Section 28)的存在,我们可能会为自己不是禁书类型的人而感到自豪——但不要掉以轻心。近年来,英国图书馆员注意到要求移除书籍的请求在增加,尤其是那些探讨 LGBTQ+ 议题的书籍。他们可能不像 ALA 那样面临巨大的压力,但我们必须保持警惕。正如 ALA 所说:“保护阅读自由。”

约书亚·布莱克本(Joshua Blackburn)是《语言爱好者的词典》(The Language-Lover's Lexipedia,Bloomsbury 出版,£14.99)的作者。可通过 observershop.co.uk 以 £13.49 订购。可能产生配送费用。

金发姑娘(Goldilocks)答案 第 44 号

扫描订阅 Caitlin O'Kane 的 Puzzles Observer —— 来自我们谜题编辑的每周时事通讯

金发姑娘纵横字谜 第 45 号

📄 外文原文 ↗

不过难,不过易,刚刚好。

金发姑娘线索不包含字数提示;在规模中等的纵横字谜中,它们仅使原本紧凑的谜题变得更加简单。乐趣在于发散思维、对网格的观察以及鲜明的现代英国口语。通过在 observer.co.uk 订阅,即可在线游玩金发姑娘存档。

$^1$ T | $^2$ S< / > $^3$ P< / > $^4$ S< / >< rowspan="2">< / > $^5$ G< / > $^6$ E< / > $^7$ S< / > $^8$ T< / > | $^9$ E< / > E< / > R< / > Y< / > $^{10}$ U< / > D< / > O< / > N< / >< / > $^{11}$ M< / > O< / > N< / > $^{12}$ L< / > I< / > G< / > H< / > T< / >< / > $^{13}$ P< / > U< / > D< / > < / > $^{14}$ A< / > L< / > B< / > | < / >< / > $^{15}$ E< / > L< / > U< / > $^{16}$ C< / > I< / > D< / > A< / > $^{17}$ T< / > $^{18}$ E< / >< / > | < / > $^{19}$ C< / > A< / > R< / > < / > $^{20}$ S< / > I< / > N< / >< / > $^{21}$ A< / > $^{22}$ N< / > E< / > C< / > D< / > $^{23}$ O< / > T< / > E< / > S< / >< / > $^{24}$ P< / > O< / > R< / > T< / >< rowspan="2">< / > $^{25}$ B< / > O< / > R< / > U< / >< / > $^{26}$ D< / > E< / > S< / > I< / > $^{27}$ I< / > N< / > S< / > E< / > |

横向

📄 外文原文 ↗

1 乔安娜·鲁姆利(Joanna Lumley)的主演节目,简称

6 默契

9 “我也一样!”

10 卵细胞

11 保罗、琳达和斯特拉

13 《Hollyoaks》中的角色威尔逊

14 哀号

15 法罗(Farrow)与鲍尔(Ball)的产品

17 凭借蒙提·派森(Monty Python)成名的迈克尔

19 希腊恶作剧女神

22 可能像吃蛋糕一样容易获得的奖项?

24 前热刺球星兴慜

25 例如 02, 场馆

26 爆炸物的首字母缩写

27 正经的小伙子?

纵向

📄 外文原文 ↗

1 令人舒适的视频类型,简称

2 西班牙语中的“嘴”

3 完全抹除

4 Reddit 上的问答环节

5 最初构思于飞机餐巾纸上的奢侈配件

6 对“无意冒犯”的回应

7 面团生长的地方

8 “我的 \_ 啊!”

12 文学作品中小士兵男孩的数量

16 它就在我们周围

17 “咳咳”的近义词

18 大量

20 22-横向奖项的颁奖地点

21 对斯威夫特(Swift)而言,《Lover》和《Reputation》是 \_

23 \_ 您被服务了吗?

Godefridus 的大苹果数独

outlawed.

📄 外文原文 ↗

每行、每列和每个 $3 \times 3$ 方格必须包含数字 1-9,此外还有一个额外挑战——四个高亮的 $3 \times 3$ 蓝色方块共同组成了一组额外的方格,其中也必须包含 1-9 且不得重复。

4. A) Biddloclast 破坏书籍的行为被称为 biblioclasm。与之相关的是名词“schools”(“books”的回文——也就是说,为了被摧毁而聚集在一起的书籍,主要作为一种随意声明。 5. (A) 佛罗里达 根据美国自由协会,佛罗里达在 2025年任何 U 州的胆固醇和舞蹈书。事实上,佛罗里达挑战了多本书籍 (3),比其他 49 个州合计还要多 711 本。 6. (C) 为自己选择 来源于拉丁语词汇,我们由此得到了英语单词“heresy”(异端),它源自希腊语 harsels,意为为自己采取或选择;在拉丁语中,该词最初是指某个宗教派别的特定学派或思想。 7. (C Error 451, 该代码是以雷·布拉德伯里(Ray Bradbury)的小说《华氏 451》命名的,故事发生在一个书籍被

奥巴马、汉克斯与男性气质的演变

📄 外文原文 ↗

米兰达·索耶 (Miranda Sawyer)

了解:男人的七个年龄阶段

BBC Radio 4 / BBC Sounds

与巴拉克·奥巴马共读好书

奥巴马 Higher Ground

请不要 BBC Sounds

在 Radio 4 的“了解 (Understand)”系列节目中,亲切的诗人迈克尔·罗森 (Michael Rosen) 正在探讨“男人的七个年龄阶段”。这位前儿童文学桂冠诗人对该电台的听众来说非常熟悉,他是《口耳相传 (Word of Mouth)》节目的主持人。他在 2020 年险些死于冠状病毒,他表示,在病愈后,他对死亡以及成为男人的本质产生了一些疑问。因此有了这些节目,在节目中,我们遇到了处于人生不同年龄段、有趣且能言善道的男性:

迈克尔·帕林 (Michael Palin)、科尔姆·托宾 (Colm Tóibín)、大卫·巴迪尔 (David Baddiel)、维托里奥·安杰洛内 (Vittorio Angelone) 等人。

我们从八十多岁的帕林开始,一直向下延伸到二十多岁的喜剧演员安杰洛内。虽然帕林总是令人愉悦,巴迪尔也极其风趣,但我发现自己随着节目的年龄层降低而越来越喜欢这个系列。听到那些承认自己并未把一切都想透的男性发声,感觉很好。安杰洛内表现得坦诚且脆弱,前职业足球运动员马文·索德尔 (Marvin Sordell,三十多岁) 也是如此。

听到年轻男性讨论男性气质如何能为他们服务,而不是压抑他们,这极其令人感动。索德尔讲述了那种追求成为“强人”的文化如何导致抑郁和自杀企图;安杰洛内则表示,备受诟病的乔丹·彼得森 (Jordan Peterson) 对他意识到男性气质的某些方面(例如为自己承担责任)至关重要起到了关键作用。两人都谈到了寻找变得更温柔、更傻气的方法。

Fat White Family 乐队的主唱利亚斯·萨乌迪 (Lias Saoudi,四十多岁) 谈到,当你直到孩子出生前一直专注于自我表达和享乐主义时,为人父母会带来多么巨大的冲击。“我做了什么?”他说,“我对父亲这个概念的唯一认知就是我将失去的所有东西……而你将获得的东西则是一个谜。”作家马修·托德 (Matthew Todd,五十多岁) 讨论了在艾滋病时代作为一名同性恋者成长的艰辛,以及对《歌剧魅影》的痴迷如何帮到了他:“我觉得自己像个怪物,我确实觉得自己像个怪物……这对我产生了很大的影响。这个世界上有一群人会接纳我。”

奥巴马和汉克斯,即使在承认自己的弱点时(汉克斯只喜欢大部头书,400页的那种),也始终不失为“阿尔法男”

罗森并没有完成所有的采访。其中一些是由优秀的音频制作人里奇·鲍尔 (Rich Power) 完成的,在这些片段中,感人的亲密感与罗森温暖但有时流于表面的剧本之间的对比偶尔显得有些奇怪。但这并不重要。所有这些男性都在微妙地探讨如何学习成为真实的自己,描述了一种在关于“有毒的男性气质”和“男性圈 (manosphere)”的喧嚣中未被讨论的男子气概。非常精彩。

这里有两个非毒性男性的绝佳典范:巴拉克·奥巴马和汤姆·汉克斯。前者有一个新播客《与巴拉克·奥巴马共读好书》,而这位演员是他的第一位嘉宾。两人都极具魅力:热情且能言善道,温暖且见识广博。他们也有一点……美国味。他们那种流畅的笃定感与《男人的七个年龄阶段》中那些男性的局促不安之间的对比,实际上让我笑了起来。不知为何,奥巴马和汉克斯,即使在承认自己的弱点时(汉克斯只喜欢真正的大部头书,400页的那种),也始终不失为“阿尔法男”。

听到他们表达方式的不同是非常有趣的:汉克斯流畅、冗长且滔滔不绝,直到奥巴马

介入;这位前总统通过漫长的停顿来维持地位,而没有任何人——甚至包括汉克斯——敢于打断。他们讨论的那本书是玛丽莲·罗宾逊获得普利策奖的《基列》(Gilead),讲述了一位垂死牧师给幼子写信的故事——这类小说属于那种具有深刻洞察力的“大智慧”之作,包含揭示性的措辞以及关于生活真相的故事。奥巴马和汉克斯都非常喜欢这本书。

更多像“见外婆时那样温顺”的男孩:记者雷文·史密斯(Raven Smith)和乔尔·戈尔比(Joel Golby)推出了一档名为《请不要》(Please Don't)的闲聊类新节目,在节目中他们剖析现代文化的细微方面。这档节目幽默且荒诞,充满了他们的个人魅力,不过对于不完全熟悉千禧一代痴迷之物的人来说,可能有点难以理解。

而在上周四的英国播客奖(British Podcast awards)上,比尔·奈伊(Bill Nighy)——一个彻底优秀男性的典范——凭借《不明智》(Ill-Advised)实至名归地赢得了最佳主持人奖。皮特·威克斯(Pete Wicks)的节目《男人制造》(Man Made)——没错——探讨了男性气概,该节目也获得了两项奖项:最佳健康与福祉播客,以及最佳访谈播客。为那些试图去理解而非永远只是在表演的男性们欢呼吧。

观察者报

文化

俱乐部

花费 £1 订阅《观察者报》加入我们的文化俱乐部

📄 外文原文 ↗

享受 2 for 1 票优惠,观看

皇家艺术学院的《绘制法国里维埃拉》

此外还可获得价值超过 £800 的、为文化好奇者量身定制的福利

RA 皇家艺术学院

基斯·范·东根,《白衣女子》(细节),1926. 布面油画,61 x 50 厘米。私人收藏,由苏黎世 Philippe David 画廊提供。照片:Alamy。由伦敦皇家艺术学院与克利夫兰艺术博物馆合作组织。

在此解锁您的福利

本周亮点

📄 外文原文 ↗

作者:Craig McLean, Kay Ribeiro 和 Stephen Armstrong

电影评论:Jonathan Romney

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今日

今日推荐 《不情愿的吸血鬼》 BBC One, 6.40pm

📄 外文原文 ↗

这部流畅的成长喜剧改编自埃里克·莫雷康比(Eric Morecambe)的儿童小说,由 Alan Partridge 的编剧 Neil 和 Rob Gibbons 改编,并拥有一组令人印象深刻的喜剧演员阵容,精准地击中了观众的笑点。汤姆·戴维斯(Tom Davis)饰演吸血鬼之王维克多,而抢镜的伦尼·鲁什(Lenny Rush)饰演他的继承人瓦尔。瓦尔必须通过吸血鬼入会仪式,但有一个重大障碍:他实际上是个人类,这个秘密由他宠溺的母亲(Sian Clifford 饰)揭露。幽灵与吸血鬼共存,这场戏简直太棒了。KR

2026年 BBC 青少年音乐家

📄 外文原文 ↗

BBC Four, 7.30pm

在 12 岁赢得这项比赛近二十年后,长号演奏家彼得·摩尔(Peter Moore)与钢琴家乔安娜·麦格雷戈(Joanna MacGregor)以及指挥家本·格农(Ben Gernon)共同担任评委。在巴斯温泉大学举行的两场现场试镜的第一场中,三人组将选出一位代表打击乐、键盘、铜管和木管乐器的音乐家进入四分之一决赛,此外还将选出三名特邀选手。KR

大卫·班伯回忆...

《我的雷格之夜》 BBC Four, 10pm

这位演员谈到了凯文·埃利奥特(Kevin Elyot) 1994 年那部引起“轰动”的戏剧,班伯在皇家剧院饰演盖伊(Guy)一角,并凭借此角色获得了奥利维尔最佳男演员奖。在 20 世纪 80 年代中期的三次公寓聚会中,盖伊和他的朋友们在艾滋病的阴影下应对爱情与失去。随后将播出 BBC 1997 年的改编版。CMc

电影 《秩序》

📄 外文原文 ↗

(Justin Kurzel, 2024)

BBC Two, 10pm

澳大利亚导演贾斯汀·库泽尔(Justin Kurzel)在描绘极端边缘人物方面很有经验,从 2011 年处女作《斯诺顿》(Snowtown)中的杀手,到《尼特拉姆》(Nitram)中困扰的孤独者。这一次是美国新纳粹——在这部设定在 20 世纪 80 年代的真实犯罪剧中,他们是 FBI 追捕的目标。裘德·洛(Jude Law)饰演追捕激进极右翼派系的特工,尼古拉斯·霍尔特(Nicholas Hoult)饰演其首脑:一个笑容亲切的乡村男孩,幻想建立一个白人至上主义的应许之地,并为此制定了残酷的计划。凭借令人不安的霍尔特与脾气古怪的洛相对峙,《秩序》既是一部扣人心弦的警匪惊悚片,也是一堂关于美国极右翼过度扩张的及时历史课。JR

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周一

今日推荐

📄 外文原文 ↗

《皮埃尔》

Channel 4, 9pm

大卫·哈伍德(David Harewood)在谈到他第一个电视主演角色时评论道:“这就是我整个职业生涯一直在等待扮演的角色。”在罗伊·威廉姆斯(Roy Williams)和约翰·多内利(John Donnelly)这部精彩的法律剧中,开场五分钟你就能明白原因。值班律师皮埃尔·杰弗里斯(Pierre Jeffreys)是个正直的人:幽默、勤奋且原则坚定。代表弱势群体是他的生存意义,因此一名年轻黑人客户在可疑情况下死亡给皮埃尔带来了沉重打击——尤其是他怀疑警方有见不得人的勾当。KR

《与星共厨》 ITV1, 7.30pm

📄 外文原文 ↗

《舞动奇迹》的艾玛·威利斯(Emma Willis)和汤姆·艾伦(Tom Allen)回归主持第六季,12 位明星在世界级厨师的指导下竞争冠军。现在节目被精简为 30 分钟的短篇幅,节奏快得惊人。演员卡罗琳·昆廷(Caroline Quentin)、马克·查诺克(Mark Charnock)和角斗士哈里·艾金斯-阿里耶蒂(Harry Aikines-Aryeetey)在第一集中正面交锋。预计会出现各种奖项和泪水。KR

[...OMITTED...]

Damilola: The Untold Story BBC Two, 晚上9点

📄 外文原文 ↗

这部令人动容的纪录片讲述了达米洛拉·泰勒(Damilola Taylor)最后的24小时。这个快乐、无忧无虑的10岁孩子于2000年在伦敦东南部佩卡姆(Peckham)被谋杀。他的亲人以及最后见到他的人(包括朋友格蕾丝和约翰·博耶加)讲述了他们的绝望、随后的审判、青少年暴力事件的激增,以及泰勒留下的深远影响。KR

作为近年来备受好评的作品之一,这部细腻的剧情片提醒世人,印度拥有强大的艺术电影传统——而在这里,这种传统被重新演绎并产生了神奇的效果。帕亚尔·卡帕迪亚(Payal Kapadia)之前的电影《不知情之夜》(A Night of Knowing Nothing)是一部纪录片,而她的这部续作则是一部具有纪录片风格基础的剧情片。故事讲述了在孟买工作的三名女性:两人是护士——普拉巴(Prabha)远离丈夫,两人是通过相亲结婚的;阿努(Anu)正沉溺于一段婚外情——第三个人帕瓦蒂(Parvaty)则是一名面临被驱逐出住房的医院厨师。当帕瓦蒂回到海岸时,护士们加入了她,她们的经历交织在一起,产生了诗意效果。沉思的、催眠的、充满质感的:这部作品完全配得上那些狂热的赞誉。JR

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周二

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今日精选

欧国联:英格兰

📄 外文原文 ↗

(帕亚尔·卡帕迪亚,2024)

Film4, 10.20pm

Bel

📄 外文原文 ↗

英格兰在比赛激烈的开局10天内的第四场比赛,截至撰稿时,两场比赛赢了一场。国际赛程依然密集。今日其他赛事:苏格兰对阵斯洛文尼亚,BBC Two, 7.30pm。以及本周前后的赛事:威尔士对阵丹麦,周日,BBC Two, 7.30pm;北爱尔兰对阵格鲁吉亚,周一,BBC Three, 7.30pm。周五将有一场女足世界杯欧洲区预选赛:希腊对阵英格兰,ITV1, 5pm。CMc

BBC Four, 10pm

玛德琳·麦肯:震惊英国的案件 Prime Video

📄 外文原文 ↗

一部令人心碎的纪录片,讲述了贝尔迪娜·奥登约(Beldina Odenyo)的故事。这位苏格兰-肯尼亚裔创作歌手的嗓音、技巧和情感厚度与杰夫·巴克利(Jeff Buckley)相呼应。2021年10月,她在爱丁堡的亚舍尔音乐厅(Usher Hall)惊艳全场;两周后,她结束了自己的生命。正如她的姐姐所说,她的音乐仍然是“对破碎之意……以及生存之意最纯粹的表达”。CMc

在那个三岁孩子失踪近20周年之际,一部两集的真实犯罪纪录片探讨了近期社交媒体对该案件的痴迷,包括一名自称是她的波兰女性的传奇故事。这是一次对在Z世代和千禧一代中“走红”的故事的探索;一场如今被网络 trolling(恶意挑衅 / 骚扰)所笼罩的悲剧。整体令人不安。CMc

电影 《布拉姆·斯托克之德古拉》

📄 外文原文 ↗

(弗朗西斯·福特·科波拉,1992)

BBC One, 10.40pm

直到最近那部运气不佳的《巨灵之城》(Megalopolis)之前,这部电影曾是弗朗西斯·科波拉作为宏大意象创作者的最后一次辉煌。这部如幻觉般的戏剧将德古拉神话带回了它的喀尔巴阡根源,同时为类型片粉丝提供了丰富的哥特式意象。加里·奥德曼在饰演伯爵时贡献了他最成熟的表演,他的各种化身包括一名枯萎的贵族和一名像开膛手杰克般的维多利亚时代花花公子。薇诺娜·瑞德和基努·里维斯是陷入他蛛网的纯真之人,汤姆·威茨饰演伯爵古灵精怪的仆人伦菲尔德,安东尼·霍普金斯饰演吸血鬼猎人范海辛。由迈克尔·鲍尔豪斯(Michael Ballhaus)拍摄,这部电影在众多德古拉电影中是最为离奇且奢华的一部。JR

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周三

今日精选 Carrie

📄 外文原文 ↗

Prime Video

布莱恩·德·帕尔马1976年改编自斯蒂芬·金小说的电影投下了深长且令人战栗的阴影,西西·斯派塞克饰演的拥有心灵感应能力的困扰青少年的标志性表演亦然。但这部由资深恐怖片大师迈克·弗拉纳根执导的八集剧集以极其震撼的方式开场,场景不仅包括学校体育馆,而且在舞会之夜整个小镇都被火焰吞噬。饰演Carrie White的萨默·H·豪威尔(Summer H Howell)令人惊叹。这个女孩——以及这部剧——正处于火热之中。CMc

地底回响:探索英国洞穴 (Echoes from Below: Exploring Britain's Caves) BBC Four, 晚上8点

📄 外文原文 ↗

恐深症患者请注意,这部纪录片将潜入新的史诗级深度,主要是皮克区(Peak District)的泰坦洞(Titan),该洞被认为是英国所有洞穴中垂直落差最大的。泰坦洞由洞穴探险家戴夫·尼克松(Dave Nixon)于1999年发现,他及其团队现在采用3D扫描仪来探索泰坦洞的真实规模。克雷斯韦尔峭壁(Creswell Crags)、金弗埃杰(Kinver Edger)和伍基洞(Wookey Hole)也将出现在片中。KR

2026年度肖像画家 (Portrait Artist of the Year 2026) 天空大西洋频道, 晚上9点

📄 外文原文 ↗

第13季的人员更新对主持人斯蒂芬·曼根(Stephen Mangan)与评委泰-山·希伦伯格(Tai-Shan Schierenberg)之间“兄弟情”的粉丝来说是个坏消息。艺术家乔纳森·叶欧(Jonathan Yeo)、艺术史学家凯蒂·赫塞尔(Katy Hessel)以及伦敦弗里兹艺术博览会(Frieze London)总监伊娃·朗格雷特(Eva Langret)在第一集中逐渐进入状态,参赛者们将捕捉伦尼·詹姆斯(Lenny James)、瓦妮莎·威廉姆斯(Vanessa Williams)和谢里丹·史密斯(Sheridan Smith)的肖像。KR

电影《豺狼之日》(The Day of the Jackal)

📄 外文原文 ↗

(弗雷德·津内曼导演, 1973)

Legend Xtra, 晚上9点

弗雷德里克·福赛斯(Frederick Forsyth)1971年的畅销书灵感源自一次真实的刺杀法国总统夏尔·戴高乐的企图。好莱坞资深导演弗雷德·津内曼(《正午》、《到永远》)将其打造成为一部备受赞誉的商业大片。爱德华·福克斯(Edward Fox)饰演被称为“豺狼”的刺客,而法国艺术电影的中坚力量、邦德反派米歇尔·隆斯代尔(Michel Lonsdale)则饰演追踪他的警司。另一位欧洲电影迷心中的偶像德尔芬·塞里格(Delphine Seyrig)也出演了该片,英国演员阵容则包括德里克·雅各比(Derek Jacobi)、艾伦·巴德尔(Alan Badel)和特伦斯·亚历山大(Terence Alexander)。许多评论家对这部电影赞不绝口,而另一些人则认为它过于死板地依循原著;即便如此,黑泽明仍将其列入他最喜爱的100部电影之列。JR

今日推荐 《名人叛徒》(The Celebrity Traitors) BBC One, 晚上8点

📄 外文原文 ↗

在发稿时,新一季仅播出了第一集,且没有进一步的预审片可供观看,因此无法预测等待着怎样的城堡大屠杀。唯一可以确定的是,如果混乱制造者理查德·E(邪恶天才)·格兰特(Richard E(vil genius) Grant)能活下来继续背叛,那将是一个小小的奇迹。至于罗斯·肯普(Ross Kemp)是否淹没在自己的偏执之中,或者米兰达·哈特(Miranda Hart)(见下文)是否已经完成了她的马普尔小姐试镜,仍有待观察…… KR

《小而可行的目标》(Small Achievable Goals) ITVX

📄 外文原文 ↗

这部关于不太像搭档的二人组朱莉(Julie)和克里斯(Kris)(创作者为詹妮弗·惠伦 Jennifer Whalen 和梅雷迪思·麦克尼尔 Meredith MacNeill)的加拿大喜剧第二季,讲述了两人通过他们受欢迎的播客应对中年危机的故事。随着新老板阿曼达(Amanda,塔玛拉·波登斯基 Tamara Podemski 饰)要求这对朋友在所有平台上都达到 No 1 并为每集播客拍摄视频,他们的共同崩溃在即。KR

《报纸》(The Paper)

📄 外文原文 ↗

天空一台 (Sky One), 11pm & 11.30pm

天空一台 (Sky One), 11pm & 11.36pm

这部在地方报社中寻找急需幽默感的喜剧迎来了第二季大结局。萨布丽娜·因帕恰托雷(Sabrina Impacciatore)饰演的记者伪装成一名小学生(在她儿子的班级里)。多诺尔·格里森(Domhnall Gleeson)饰演的编辑在与发烧和 / 或心碎作斗争时宣布:“我不是在像对待前女友那样看着你。我是在像对待一名优秀的记者那样看着你。”(做梦吧——编辑注。)CMc

电影《美杜莎豪华版》(Medusa Deluxe)

📄 外文原文 ↗

(托马斯·哈迪曼导演, 2022)

BBC Two, 12.05am

托马斯·哈迪曼(Thomas Hardiman)的大胆处女作是当代英国电影中一部厚颜无耻、古灵精怪且富有创造力的异类,这是一部设定在美发比赛中的谋杀谜案。随着罗比·瑞安(Robbie Ryan)的镜头在更衣室之间穿梭——整部电影拍摄得仿佛一个长镜头——我们遇到了由出色演员阵容饰演的各种证人和嫌疑人,包括克莱尔·珀金斯(Clare Perkins)、凯拉·梅克尔(Kayla Meikle)、哈丽特·韦伯(Harriet Webb),以及饰演焦虑的活动组织者的达雷尔·D·席尔瓦(Darrell D'Silva)。在关于角色们情史的所有揭秘中,你会开始怀疑这种密集的交织是否能被解开。但请坚持看下去:随着故事和视觉风格的升温,这部电影施展了其独特的、如同美杜莎般的魔力。JR

周五

📄 外文原文 ↗

今日推荐

《拿回它:Cymande的故事》(Getting It Back: The Story of Cymande) BBC Four, 10.40pm

一部节奏舒缓、循环往复且充满爱意的 2022 年纪录片,讲述了被 Fugees、De La Soul 和 Wu-Tang Clan 采样过的“失踪”英国心理放克乐队 Cymande 的故事。Cymande 由七位加勒比出生音乐家于 1971 年在伦敦南部成立,在公开的种族主义和隐秘的音乐产业肤色禁令时期录制了三张专辑。他们于 1975 年分道扬镳,但其律动和精神得以延续。据马克·朗森(Mark Ronson)称,他们的音乐是“超凡脱俗的”,“就像是从宇宙飞船上降临的一样”。CMc

Animals

Netflix

在泵动式警匪片《撕裂》(The Rip) 之后,这是本·阿弗莱克今年为 Netflix 执导的第二部扣人心弦——尽管钝了一些——的惊悚片。他担任导演并共同编剧,为自己安排了一个强有力的角色:一名洛杉矶市长候选人,在儿子被绑架后,他的竞选活动和道德底线受到了考验。主演包括凯丽·华盛顿(Kerry Washington)、史蒂文·燃(Steven Yeun)以及——带着冰冷的英国口音的——吉莉安·安德森(Gillian Anderson)。CMc

今日剧场:打烊时间 (Closing Time) 5, 9pm

📄 外文原文 ↗

一家烤肉店成为了米娜·巴格(Mina Barger)这部深思熟虑的爱情故事中出人意料的背景,探讨了成为英籍亚裔的含义以及移民经历。准律师新娘莱拉(Laila,埃洛拉·托基亚 饰)与厨师莫(Mo,安东尼奥·阿基尔 饰)之间的一次深夜邂逅引发了一场复杂的私情,使他们对可能实现的梦想和信念变得清晰可见。KR

电影

《长腿》(Longlegs)

(奥斯古德·珀金斯 导演, 2024)

BBC Two, 10pm

编剧兼导演奥斯古德·珀金斯(Osgood Perkins)的知名度自其 2015 年的处女作惊悚片《黑外套之女》(The Blackcoat's Daughter) 起便有所提升。他的第四部故事片《长腿》巩固了他作为恐怖片代码俏皮操纵者的名声。影片背景设定在 1990 年代,由麦卡·门罗(Maika Monroe,曾出演《它在跟随》)饰演一名 FBI 特工,追捕一名痴迷于神秘学且热爱马克·波兰(Marc Bolan)和 T Rex 乐队的难以捉摸的儿童杀手。尼古拉斯·凯奇饰演“长腿”,这是他迄今为止最古怪的表演之一,而他以往的表演已经足够古怪了。《长腿》可能并不像表面看起来那么简单——但呈现在眼前的视觉效果非常具有复古风格,这在很大程度上要归功于安德烈斯·阿罗奇·蒂纳赫罗(Andrés Arochi Tinajero)极具氛围感的摄影。而且那种战栗感效果显著。JR

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今日推荐

1976年四十首金曲 (Forty Hits of 1976 at the ) Two, 8.40pm

📄 外文原文 ↗

1976 年可能是朋克爆发的一年,但并非在排行榜上,也不是在 。今晚,旧势力依然掌权,牢牢占据着主流地位:埃尔顿·约翰(Elton John)和基基·迪(Kiki Dee)(见下图)、克利夫·理查德(Cliff Richard)、多莉·帕顿(Dolly Parton)、人类兄弟会(Brotherhood of Man)以及一些追求流行完美的瑞典人。说到这个,接下来的节目是《ABBA在BBC》(ABBA at the ) (11.10pm)、《更多ABBA在BBC》(More ABBA at the ) (12.10am) 以及《流行金曲:1976年故事》(Top of the Pops: The Story of 1976) (1.10am)。可能包含疯子(即 Wurzels 乐队)。CMc

白金汉宫:生活的一年 (Buckingham Palace: A Year in the Life) 5, 8.35pm

📄 外文原文 ↗

现在是秋天,宫廷正准备迎接一系列重要的国事访问和宴会,这些是“复杂、后勤繁琐且外交高难度的走钢丝行为”。不过,并非所有客人都受欢迎,因为皇家捕鼠员正高度警惕季节性迁徙的啮齿动物,它们正试图升级自己的住所。此外,还将揭秘宫廷 3.69 亿英镑 翻新工程的更多秘密。KR

《克拉波利斯》(Krapopolis)

📄 外文原文 ↗

Three, 11.40pm

这部由丹·哈蒙(Dan Harmon,曾创作《瑞克和莫蒂》)创作的成人动画的六集入门篇,在美国已经播出了三季。在一个比神话希腊更具神话色彩的版本中,提拉尼斯(Tyrannis,理查德·艾约德 饰)是克拉波利斯的半神半庸王。马特·贝里(Matt Berry)和汉娜·瓦丁汉姆(Hannah Waddingham)为他来自冥界的父母配音。其余部分则是古代历史与喜剧的结合。CMc

电影《可怜的东西》

📄 外文原文 ↗

(约戈斯·兰斯莫斯,2023)

Channel 4, 晚上10点

即便在约戈斯·兰斯莫斯(《龙虾》,《Bugonia》)的电影作品集中,这部黑色喜剧也因其大胆且绝对古怪的创作而脱颖而出——这一点同样适用于电影中那位独一无二的女主角。本片改编自阿拉斯代尔·格雷的小说,是一个女性主义版本的“弗兰肯斯坦”故事。威廉·达福饰演古怪的外科医生戈德温·巴克斯特,他在一名年轻女性(艾玛·斯通 饰)自杀未遂后将其复活,但为其更换了一个新大脑。巴克斯特的“创造物”贝拉本质上是一个拥有成年女性身体、任性且不可预测的孩子,她学习速度极快——包括语言、世界以及她自己的性意识。影片在视觉上极其巴洛克化,但这种风格上的奢华从未掩盖斯通在核心位置那令人陶醉且机智的表演。JR

本周精选

📄 外文原文 ↗

回到 1995 年,诺埃尔·加拉格尔(Noel Gallagher)曾唱道:“请不要将你的生命交给 / 一个摇滚乐队 / 他们会将其全部挥霍。”观看《绿洲乐队:不要在愤怒中回头》(Oasis: Don't Look Back in Anger,迪士尼+,周五),看来我们当时并没有在听。该乐队 2025 年的回归巡演之所以成为一件大事,与其说是为了演出本身——歌曲很棒,但曲目单毫无变化,乐队成员原地不动,且混音效果好到像在听录音——不如说是为了它带来的文化冲击。但如何用电影捕捉这次事件的意义?演唱会只讲述了故事的一部分。更引人入胜的是在温布尔登数月紧张排练的隐藏摄像机片段,当时利亚姆(Liam)和诺埃尔已经 15 年没有说话了。

值得称赞的是,电影制作人——《浴血黑帮》(Peaky Blinders)的编剧史蒂文·奈特(Steven Knight),以及《闭嘴,演奏金曲》(Shut Up and Play the Hits)的导演组合威尔·洛夫莱斯(Will Lovelace)和迪伦·索瑟恩(Dylan Southern)——也对粉丝们产生了兴趣。我们听到了许多粉丝的心声,他们来自远至韩国、日本、阿根廷和巴西的地方。包括哈里斯·赞巴鲁科斯(Haris Zambarloukos,《贝尔法斯特》)、洛尔·克劳利(Lol Crawley,《粗野主义者》)、詹姆斯·拉克顿(James Laxton,《月光男孩》)、苏齐·拉维尔(Suzie Lavelle,《正常人》)和朴正勋(Park Junghoon,《女杀手》)在内的摄影师们共同参与,记录了横跨三大洲的 12 场演唱会,他们只有一个指令:“拍摄你观看演出的体验。”

其结果——那些泪水、难以置信和融合——或许在卡迪夫那场狂喜的首演之夜得到了最好的总结:一名穿着阿迪达斯(Adidas)且明显处于震惊状态的粉丝,得到了身边一名随机观众的安慰。诺埃尔在镜头前承认,他完全没有准备好面对这种“强烈的喜悦与泪水的迸发……以及这件事对人们意味着什么的感受”。当然,除非他们真的决定(再次)将其全部挥霍,否则绿洲乐队明年将再次开启全球巡演。

说到金曲,第二季的《星际迷航:奇异新世界》(Star Trek Strange New Worlds,ITVX,周日)在某种程度上是对《星际迷航》经典系列的致敬,开篇是一个求救信号和窃取企业号的故事,向《寻找史波克》(The Search for Spock)致敬;而第二集则是一场法庭剧,风格类似于《下一代》era. 的《衡量一个人》(The Measure of a Man)。这是典型的旧式“每周一次任务”的科幻套路——而我们不希望它变成其他样子。SA

《绿洲乐队:不要在愤怒中回头》。Joe Maher / Getty Images

6.0 | 新闻 (T) 9.0 与劳拉·昆斯伯格共度周日 (T) 10. 英国政治 (T) 10.30 周日早晨现场 (T) 11.30 徒手赚钱 (T)(R) 12.0 淘货猎人 (T)(R) 12.35 生命线 (T) 12. 观点 (T) 1. 新闻 (T) 1.10 天气 (T) 1.15 赞美之歌 (T) 2. 电影《怪物史瑞克 2》(2004)(T) 3.25 王国 (T) (R) 4.15 房屋改造 (T) (R) 5.15 新闻(T) 5.40 乡村生活 (T) 6.40 不情愿的吸血鬼(T) 7.10 舞动奇迹:结果公布 (T)< / > 6.30 电视园艺 A 到 Z 7.15 俯瞰绝美花园 8.0 乡村生活 9.0 陆地 (T) 9.30 气象员行走之最 10.0 周六厨房精选 (T) 11.30 伊娃·隆戈里亚:寻找法国 (T) (R) 12.10 洛林·帕斯卡尔:如何成为更好的厨师 12.40 尼格尔和亚当的农场厨房 1.45 橄榄球联赛总决赛 2.45 电影《想要成为国王的人》(T) 4.50 这种农耕生活 (T) (R) 5.50 把它卖了!(T) (R) 6.50 伊娃·隆戈里亚:< / > | 寻找法国 (T) | 6.0 英国之声 (The Voice UK) (T) (R)7.0 詹姆斯·马丁的周六早晨 (James Martin's Saturday Morning) (T) (R)9.25 新闻 (T)9.30 与艾伦·蒂奇马什共度你的周末 (Love Your Weekend with Alan Titchmarsh) (T)11.25 弗莱彻家的家庭农场 (Fletchers' Family Farm) (T)12.25 热爱你的花园 (Love Your Garden) (T)(R)12.50 新闻 (T) 天气1.0 ITV赛马直播:凯旋门大奖赛 (Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe) (T)3.30 电影《金眼》(GoldenEye) (1995) (T)5.50 追击 (The Chase) (T) (R)6.40 新闻 (T) 天气6.50 地方新闻 (T) 天气7.0 盒子 (The Box) (T) 不经意间的公众成员成为了游戏的一部分。< / > 6.10 干杯 (Cheers) (T) (R)7.30 每个人都爱雷蒙 (Everybody Loves Raymond) (T) (R)8.55 辛普森一家 (The Simpsons) (T) (R)10.0 周日早午餐 (Sunday Brunch) (T)1.0 F1 马来西亚站巴林大奖赛 (F1 Bahrain GP in Malaysia) (T)3.30 狗狗之家 (The Dog House) (T) (R)4.15 乔治·克拉克的神奇空间 (George Clarke's Amazing Spaces) (T) (R)5.15 街道上最糟糕的房子 (Worst House on the Street) (T) (R)6.15 新闻 (T)6.45 德文与康沃尔 (Devon and Cornwall) (T) (R) 艺术家史蒂夫·普莱德尔-皮尔斯 (Steve Pleydell-Pearce) 离开了他通常的沿海热门地点。7.45 伟大的名人陶艺大赛 (The Great Celebrity Pottery Throw Down) (T) 名人们制作了一套花园小矮人。< / > 6.0 Milkshake! 9.0 娱乐新闻 (T)9.05 邮轮:热爱生活的英国人在海上 (The Cruise: Fun-Loving Brits at Sea) (T)(R)11.05 与简·麦克唐纳一起度假 (Holidaying with Jane McDonald) (T) (R)12.0 战舰:皇家海军的生活 (Warship: Life in the Royal Navy) (T) (R)2.0 直播:NFL 大赛日 (NFL Big Game Day) (T) 华盛顿指挥官队对阵印第安纳波利斯小马队 (开球时间 2.30pm)。5.30 奇妙的巧克力世界 (The Wonderful World of Chocolate) (T)6.0 百万英镑房车 (Million Pound Motorhomes) (T)(R) (R)6.55 新闻 (T)7.0 汽油车 vs 电动车:哪个更好? (Petrol vs Electric Cars: Which Is Better?) (T) (R)< / > 7.0 及时缝补 (A Stitch in Time) (T) 探索荷兰画家扬·凡·艾克 (Jan van Eyck) 的《阿尔诺芬尼夫妇像》。7.30 2026年BBC青年音乐家 (BBC Young Musician 2026)(T) 寻找下一位古典音乐超级巨星。佩特罗克·特雷劳尼 (Petroc Trelawny) 带来试镜亮点。< / > | 8.0 古董路演 (Antiques Roadshow) (T) 团队访问南威尔士的卡尔菲利城堡 (Caerphilly Castle),发现的物品包括一张齐柏林飞船 (Led Zeppelin) 的稀有唱片。9.0 分手 (The Split Up) (T) 法律剧。艾莉亚 (Aria) 努力说服德鲁夫 (Dhruv) 坦白,同时她也在与自己背叛带来的愧疚感作斗争。< / > 7.30 威尔士今日比赛直播 (Match of the Day WalesLive) (T) 威尔士对阵丹麦 (开球时间 7.45pm)。欧足联国家联赛 A4 组第四场比赛,两支球队在卡迪夫城市体育场展开较量。两队一周前在哥本哈根相遇,丹麦以 2-0 获胜。< / > 8.0 谁想成为百万富翁? (Who Wants to Be a Millionaire?) (T) (R) 高额奖金问答节目,由杰里米·克拉克森 (Jeremy Clarkson) 主持。9.0 指责 (The Blame) (T) 一名嫌疑人被带回来接受审讯。探长艾玛·克雷恩 (Emma Crane) 寻求盟友的帮助,以进一步揭开索菲 (Sophie) 杀手身份的真相。< / > 9.0 启示录 (Apocalypse) (T) 真人挑战系列赛。西区人发现他们珍贵的山羊被偷了,并向东区宣战——但最终却陷入内斗。心理学家基拉 (Kiera) 制定了一个计划,以最有效地利用新成员艾利克斯 (Alix)。< / > 8.0 22 Kids & Counting (T) 苏·拉德福德 (Sue Radford) 试图教她的儿子马克斯 (Max) 开车。9.0 直播:5频道NFL (Live: NFL on 5) (T) 旧金山49人队对阵丹佛野马队 (开球时间 9.25pm)。德莫特·奥利里 (Dermot O'Leary)、萨姆·奎克 (Sam Quek) 和奥西·乌门约拉 (Osi Umenyiora) 在利维体育场 (Levi's Stadium) 为本场比赛提供报道。< / > 9.0 拜约挂毯之谜 (Mysteries of the Bayeux Tapestry) (T) 这幅描绘诺曼征服英格兰故事的著名11世纪刺绣是一件非凡的艺术品。专家们联手揭开其谜团,以阐明历史上的一个关键时刻。< / > < / > | 10.0 新闻 (T)10.25 地区新闻 (T) 天气10.30 电影《惠特尼·休斯顿:我想与某人共舞》(Whitney Houston: I Wanna Dance with Somebody) (2022) (T)12.45 未来一周天气预报 (T)12.50 新闻 (T)< / > 10.0 电影《秩序》(The Order) (2024) (T)11.50 海上救生 (Saving Lives at Sea) (T) (R)12.50 电影《罪在我》(The Crime Is Mine) (弗朗索瓦·奥宗, 2023) (T)2.30 手语区:问题时间 (Sign Zone: Question Time) (T) (R)3.30 手语区:海上救生 (Sign Zone: Saving Lives at Sea) (T) (R)< / > 10.0 新闻 (T) 天气10.15

《星际迷航:奇异新世界》(T) 新剧集。11.15 《星际迷航:奇异新世界》(T) 科幻前传。12.25 Shop 3.0 英国赛车运动 (T) (R)3.50 Unwind (T) | 10.0 Gogglebox (T) (R)11.0 《三个女人》(T) 新剧集。剧情片。12.15 《三个女人》(T)2.15《厨房噩梦:美国》(R)3.05 《辛普森一家》(R)4.50 Sunday Brunch (T)< / > 12.30 Cops (T) (R)12.55Motorway Cops: Catching America's Speeders (T)(R)1.55 Entertainment News on 5 (T)2.0 Cruise TV (T) (R)3.0 Secrets of the River Clyde (T) (R)< / > 10.0 David Bamber Remembers – My Night with Reg (T)10.15 My Night with Reg (T)12.0 Elmina's Kitchen (T)1.30 Kwame Kwei-Armah: This Cultural Life (T)2.0A Stitch in Time (T)< / > < / > | 第四频道 (Channel 4)

今日电视节目

📄 外文原文 ↗

BBC Two

BBC One

ITV1

5

David Bamber 回忆

– 我的 Reg 之夜 (My Night with Reg),

Four, 10pm

演员讨论

Kevin Elyot 的舞台剧

Four

周一 5

📄 外文原文 ↗

One

6.0 早报 (T) 9.30 早晨直播 (T) 10.45 犯罪观察直播 (T) 11.30 房屋拍卖 (T) (R) 12.15 淘货猎人 (T) 1.0 新闻 (T) 天气 1.35 地区新闻 (T) 1.45 新闻 (T) 2.0 清洁修复 (T) (R) 2.30 节俭大转移 (T) (R) 3.0 逃往乡村 (T) 3.45 花园救援 (T) 4.30 谎言之桥 (T) 5.15 无用之题 (T) 6.0 新闻 (T) 天气 6.30 地区新闻 (T) 天气 6.55 政党政治广播 (T) (R) 7.0 综合节目 (The One Show) (T) 7.30 东区街 (T)

Two

6.30 淘货猎人 (T) (R) 7.15 古董公路旅行 (T) (R) 8.0 气象员漫步精选 (8.30 手语区:气象员漫步精选 (T) (R) 9.0 新闻 (T) 12.15 政治直播 (T) 1.0 不可能 1.45 无敌 (T) (R) 2.30 老板 3.15 榉树园重新种植 (T) (R) 3.30 英国缝纫大赛 (T) (R) 4.30 复古古董路演) 5.15 把它卖了! (T) (R) 6.0 游戏之家 (T) 6.30 舞动奇迹:双人行 (T) 7.0 全球之眼 (T) 7.30 智力大师 (T) 问答节目。

9.0 达米洛拉:未讲述的故事 (T) 探讨 10 岁男孩达米洛拉·泰勒 (Damilola Taylor) 谋杀案的纪录片。

ITV1

6.0 英国早安 (T) 9.30 洛林 (T) 10.0 此时此刻 (T) 12.30 闲聊女性 (T) 1.30 新闻 (T) 天气 1.55 当地新闻 (T) 天气 2.0 迪金森的真实交易 (T) (R) 3.0 语言游戏 (T) (R) 4.0 成交或不成交 (T) (R) 5.0 追击 (T) (R) Stephen, Rosemary, Georgie 和 Fionn 参加。 6.0 当地新闻 (T) 6.25 政党政治广播 (T) 6.30 新闻 (T) 天气 7.30 与星共厨 (T) 新剧集。Emma Willis 和 Tom Allen 回归这场烹饪竞赛。

6.30 皇后之王 (T) (R) 7.45 大家都爱雷蒙 (T) (R) 9.10 弗雷泽 (T) (R) 11.10 美国拾荒者 (12.05 新闻 (T) 12.10 翻新国家 (T) (R) 1.10 豪宅赠与 (R) 2.10 倒计时 (T) 3.0 阳光下的居所 (T) (R) 4.0 救命!我们买了个村庄 (T) 5.0 四人一床 (T) 5.30 来我家吃饭 6.0 阳光下的新生活:他们现在如何? (T) (R) 在法国,Natalie 和 Andy 有宏大的扩张计划。 7.0 新闻 (T)

达米洛拉:未讲述的故事, Two, 9pm 揭露达米洛拉·泰勒谋杀案的纪录片

6.0 Milkshake! 9.15 杰里米·Vine (T) 11.30 Storm & Alexis (T) 12.45 新闻 (T) 12.50 Matt Allwright (T) 2.20 FILM 《被继姐跟踪》(John Burd, Logan Giese, 2023) (T) 4.0 阳光下的英国淘货迷 (T) (R) 5.0 新闻 (T) 6.0 康沃尔:海边的一年 (T) (R) 探讨康沃尔作为全年繁荣郡县的纪录片。 6.55 新闻 (T) 7.0 警察拦截者 (T) (R) 部队出动拦截一辆时速 185 英里的超级摩托车。 7.55 新闻 (T) 头条。

8.0 交通警察:精英一队 (T) 新纪录片剧集。一名警官搜寻一辆涉嫌使用克隆车牌的汽车。

9.0 迈克尔·帕林在菲律宾 (T) 迈克尔通过探索巴拉望岛继续他的旅行冒险。

Four

7.0 冬季:地球的季节秘密 (T) 探讨各种动物如何应对冬季生存挑战的纪录片,包括驯鹿、白鼬、雪猴和帝企鹅。

8.0 法国艺术 (T) Andrew Graham-Dixon 考察法国艺术史。

9.0 智力大师:1977 (T) 专业科目包括提比略、维京人和拉尔夫·沃恩·威廉姆斯。

9.30 猜我的谎言 (T) 由 Diane Keen, Ian Ogilvy, Nerys Hughes 和 Tim Rice 主持。

10.0 安妮塔·布鲁克纳论艺术:100 幅伟大绘画 (T)

10.55 莱昂纳多·达·芬奇 (T)

12.45 古代世界 (T) 1.45

冬季:地球的季节秘密 (T) 2.45 法国艺术 (T) 纪录片。

周二 6

📄 外文原文 ↗

BBC One

BBC Two

ITV1

Channel 4

BBC Four, 晚上10点

向 Beldina Odenyo 致敬,这位出生于肯尼亚的苏格兰创作歌手于 2021 年去世

6.0 Breakfast (T) 9.30 Morning Live (T) 10.45 Crimewatch Live (T) 11.30 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R) 12.15 Bargain Hunt (T) (R) 1.0 News (T) Weather 1.35 Regional News (T) Weather 1.45 (T) 2.0 Clean It, Fix It (T) (R) 2.30 Shift the Thrift (T) (R) 3.0 Escape to the Country (T) 3.45 Garden Rescue (T) (R) 4.30 Bridge of Lies (T) 5.15 Pointless (T) 6.0 (T) 6.30 Regional (T) 7.0 The One Show (T) 7.30 EastEnders (T) | 6.15 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R) 7.15 Bargain Hunt (T) (R) 8.0 Sign Zone: Mastermind (T) (R) 9.0 (T) 12.15 Politics Live (T) 1.0 Impossible (T) (R) 1.45 Unbeatable (T) (R) 2.30 The Boss (T) (R) 3.15 Beechgrove Repotted (T) (R) 3.30 The Great British Sewing Bee (T) (R) 4.30 Vintage Antiques Roadshow (T) (R) 5.15 Flog It! (T) (R) 6.0 House of Games (T) 6.30 Strictly: It Takes Two (T) 7.0 Villages by the Sea (T) (R) Almouth 的历史。< / > 6.0 Good Morning Britain (T) 9.30 Lorraine (T) 10.0 This Morning (T) 12.30 Loose Women (T) 1.30 (T) 1.55 Local (T) 2.0 Dickinson's Real Deal (T) (R) 3.0 Lingo (T) (R) 4.0 Deal or No Deal (T) (R) Jemma 轮到她开启盒子。 5.0 The Chase (T) (R) 来自 Barnstable 的 Lynn,来自伦敦的 Phoebe,来自 Caithness 的 Greg 和来自 Burton-upon-Trent 的 Tim 将挑战一名冷酷的追击者。 6.0 Local (T) 6.30 (T)< / > 6.30 The King of Queens (T) (R) 7.45 Everybody Loves Raymond (T) (R) 9.10 Frasier (T) (R) 11.10 American Pickers (T) (R) 12.05 (T) 12.10 Renovation Nation (T) (R) 1.10 The Great House Giveaway (T) (R) 2.10 Countdown (T) 3.0 A Place in the Sun (T) (R) 4.0 Help! We Bought a Village (T) 5.0 Four in a Bed (T) 5.30 Come Dine with Me (T) (R) 6.0 A New Life in the Sun: Where Are They Now? (T) (R) Cliff 有了一位新的商业伙伴。 7.0 (T)< / > 6.0 Milkshake! 9.15 Jeremy Vine (T) 11.30 Storm & Alexis (T) 12.45 (T) 12.50 Matt Allwright (T) 2.20 电影《If I Can't Have You》(David DeCoteau 导演,2023年)(T) 由 Bailey Kai 主演的悬疑片。 4.0 Bargain-Loving Brits in the Sun (T) (R) 5.0 (T) 6.0 Cornwall: A Year by the Sea (T) (R) 镜头聚焦于职业冲浪手 Sam。 6.55 (T) 7.0 Tesco: How Do They Really Do It? (T) (R) 揭秘这家巨型超市连锁店的幕后。 7.55 (T)< / > < / > | 8.0 DIY SOS (T) 团队帮助南安普敦的一对聋哑夫妇。 9.0 Blue Lights (T) 在 Amira 遭到袭击后,Grace 的决心让她陷入危险,而 Mo 则进一步失控——并导致了暴力后果。由 Siân Brooke 主演,背景设定在贝尔法斯特的剧集。< / > 7.30 国际足球直播 (T) 苏格兰 对阵 斯洛文尼亚(开球时间 7.45pm)。欧足联国家联赛 B1 组比赛的所有精彩瞬间,比赛在 Hampden Park 举行。此前两队在卢布尔雅那战成 0-0 平局,随后将分别对阵瑞士和北马其顿。< / > 7.0 欧足联国家联赛直播 (T) 英格兰 对阵 捷克(开球时间 7.45pm)。Mark Pougatch 将主持两队在温布利球场进行的 A3 组第四场比赛的所有精彩瞬间。这两支球队七天前曾在布拉格相遇,英格兰以 2-0 获胜。< / > 8.0 The Great British Bake Off (T) 烘焙师们面临一系列由观众选择的挑战,包括一项会出现许多熟面孔的招牌挑战。 9.30 Tempting Fortune (T) 当部分玩家挥霍在豪华水疗度假上时,分歧出现了。< / > 8.0 Motorway Cops: Catching Britain's Speeders (T) 新剧集。警员 Chris Bagnall 加入一项抓捕非法越野摩托车的行动。 9.0 Surgeons: A Matter of Life or Death (T) (R) 外科医生必须切除位于一名患者两侧之间的肿瘤 [...OMITTED...]< / > | brain. | 8.0 To the Manor Born (T) 一个流浪汉进行年度访问。8.30 Keeping Up Appearances (T) 情景喜剧。海辛斯穿上了一套花式服装。9.0 Henry VIII's Enforcer: The Rise and Fall of Thomas Cromwell (T) 16世纪律师兼政治家托马斯·克伦威尔的人物传记。< / > | 10.0 新闻 (T)10.30 地区新闻 (T) 天气10.40 电影《布拉姆·斯托克之德古拉》(Francis Ford Coppola, 1992) (T) 恐怖片。12.40 未来一周天气预报 (T)12.45 新闻 (T)< / > 10.0 QI (T) (R) 主持人 Jo Brand。10.30 Newsnight (T) 天气11.05 Romesh Ranganathan 的不幸遭遇 (R)12.05 电影《Here Before》(Stacey Gregg, 2022) (T) 惊悚片。1.25 Sign Zone (T) (R)< / > 10.05 新闻 (T) 本地新闻10.50 大运河谋杀案:真实犯罪 (T) (R)11.45 英国房车锦标赛集锦1.0 电视购物 3.0 冰封之南的奇迹 (T) (R)< / > 10.35 《英国烘焙大赛:第二次加餐》(T)11.20 Taskmaster (T) (R)12.20 《厨房噩梦》美国版 (T) (R)1.10 《名人陶艺大赛》(T) (R) 竞赛。< / > 10.30 医院:生死一线 (T) (R) 纪录片。11.30 急诊 24 / 7:分秒必争 (T) (R)12.35 警察 (T) (R)1.0 邮轮电视 (T) (R)2.0 康沃尔:海边的一年 (T) (R)< / > 10.0 Bel (T) 向歌手 Beldina Odenyo 致敬。11.30 西藏失落的世界 (T)12.30 骨骼的秘密 (T)1.0 Anita Brookner 谈艺术:100 幅伟大绘画 (T)1.55 西藏失落的世界 (T)< / > | BBC Four

周三 7

📄 外文原文 ↗

BBC One

6.0 Breakfast (T) 9.30 Morning Live (T) 10.45 Crimewatch Live (T) 11.30 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R) 12.15 Bargain Hunt (T) (R) 1.0 News (T) 天气 1.35 Regional News (T) 天气 1.45 (T) 天气 2.0 Clean It, Fix It (T) (R) 2.30 Shift the Thrift (T) (R) 3.0 Escape to the Country (T) (R) 3.45 Garden Rescue (T) 4.30 Bridge of Lies (T) 5.15 Pointless (T) 问答赛。6.0 (T) 头条。天气 6.30 Regional (T) 天气 7.0 The One Show (T) 7.30 EastEnders (T)

BBC Two

6.15 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R) 7.15 Escape to the Country (R) 8.0 Reluctant Vampire (T) (R) 8.30 Weatherman Walking (T) 9.0 (T) 10.45 Politics Live 12.30 (T) 1.0 Impossible 1.45 Unbeatable (T) (R) 2.30 The Boss (T) (R) 3.15 Beechgrove Repotted (T) (R) 3.30 The Great British Sewing Bee (T) (R) 4.30 Vintage Antiques Roadshow (T) (R) 5.05 Flog It! (T) (R) 6.0 House of Games (T) 6.30 Strictly: It Takes Two (T) 7.0 Celebrity Antiques Road Trip (T) (R)

8.0 Saving Lives at Sea (T)

接到一名心急如焚的女性打来的 999 紧急电话,她的丈夫正乘坐桨板漂向大海。

ITV1

Channel 4

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6.30 The King of Queens

(T) (R) 7.45 Everybody

Loves Raymond (T) (R)

9.10 Frasier (T) (R) 11.10

American Pickers (T)

(R) 12.05 (T) 12.10

Renovation Nation (T)

(R) 1.10 The Great House

Giveaway (T) (R) 2.10

Countdown (T) 3.0 A Place

in the Sun (T) (R) 4.0 Help!

We Bought a Village (T) 5.0

Four in a Bed (T) 5.30 Come

Dine with Me (T) (R) Barber

Natalia 计划举办一个 90 年代主题的夜晚。6.0 A New Life in

the Sun: Where Are They

Now? (T) (R) 7.0 (T)

10.0 Martin Compston: Living Las Vegas 11.05 Gogglebox (R) 12.05 Great British Bake Off (R) 1.30 Taskmaster (T) (R) 2.25 FLM Mikka Bannada Hakki (2024) (T) 3.50 Sunday Brunch (T) (R)

Echoes from Below: Exploring Britain's Caves, BBC Four, 晚上 8 点 David Clarke 将探讨地底深处隐藏的内容

BBC Four

7.0 Secrets of Bones (T)

Ben Garrod 探讨骨骼如何进化,使脊椎动物能够以不同的方式在陆地上移动。

7.30 Timothy Spall Back at Sea (T) 从怀特黑文(Whitehaven)到斯特兰拉尔(Stranraer)附近的波特帕特里克(Portpatrick)。

8.0 Echoes from Below: Exploring Britain's Caves (T) 洞穴在英国历史中的重要性。

8.50 Building Sights (T) 艺术家 Derek Jarman 回到他前艺术导师的家中。

9.0 The Human Body: Secrets of Your Life Revealed (T) 系列最后一集。

10.0 Schmoedipus: Play for Today 11.10 Wild Swimming (T) 12.10 Bullets, Boots and Bandages: How to Really Win at War (T) 1.10 Secrets of Bones (T) 1.40 Timothy Spall Back at Sea (T)

周四 8

📄 外文原文 ↗

BBC One

《小而可行的目标》(Small Achievable Goals),ITVX

詹妮弗·惠伦 (Jennifer Whalen) 主演的这部情景喜剧讲述了两个截然不同的女性的故事

Channel 4

BBC Four | 6.0 早晨新闻 (Breakfast) (T) 9.30 早晨直播 (Morning Live) (T) 10.45 犯罪观察直播 (Crimewatch Live) (T) 11.15 房屋改造 (Homes Under the Hammer) (T) (R) 12.15 淘宝猎人 (Bargain Hunt) (T) (R) 1.0 新闻 (T) 天气 1.35 地区新闻 (T) 天气 1.45 新闻 (T) 天气 2.0 清洁与修复 (Clean It, Fix It) (T) (R) 2.30 节俭大转移 (Shift the Thrift) (T) (R) 3.0 逃往乡村 (Escape to the Country) (T) (R) 3.45 花园救援 (Garden Rescue) (T) (R) 4.30 谎言之桥 (Bridge of Lies) (T) 5.15 无用之题 (Pointless) (T) 6.0 新闻 (T) 天气 6.30 地区新闻 (T) 天气 7.0 综合节目 (The One Show) (T) 7.30 东区东街 (EastEnders) (T) | 6.30 谎言之桥 (Bridge of Lies) (T) (R) 7.15 花园救援 (Garden Rescue) (T) (R) 8.0 气象员漫步精选 (The Best of Weatherman Walking) (T) (R) 8.30 气象员漫步精选 (The Best of Weatherman Walking) (T) (R) 9.0 新闻 (T) 12.15 政治直播 (Politics Live) (T) 1.0 不可能 (Impossible) (T) (R) 1.45 无敌 (Unbeatable) (T) (R) 2.30 老板 (The Boss) (T) (R) 3.15 动物之奇 (The Wonder of Animals) (T) (R) 3.45 豪宅复兴 (The Great House Revival) (T) (R) 4.35 复古古董路演 (Vintage Antiques Roadshow) (T) (R) 5.15 把它卖了!(Flog It!) (T) (R) 6.0 游戏之屋 (House of Games) (T) 6.30 舞动奇迹:两人行 (Strictly: It Takes Two) (T) 7.0 逃往乡村 (Escape to the Country) (T) (R) | 6.0 英国早安 (Good Morning Britain) (T) 9.30 罗莱恩 (Lorraine) (T) 10.0 此刻 (This Morning) (T) 12.30 自由女性 (Loose Women) (T) 1.30 新闻 (T) 天气 1.55 地方新闻 (T) 天气 2.0 迪金森的真实交易 (Dickinson's Real Deal) (T) (R) 3.0 语言游戏 (Lingo) (T) (R) 4.0 成交或不成交 (Deal or No Deal) (T) (R) 5.0 追击 (The Chase) (T) (R) 坎贝尔、帕梅拉、汉克和罗西参加。 6.0 地方新闻 (T) 天气 6.30 新闻 (T) 天气 7.30 今晚:买家当心:退休房产 (Tonight: Buyer Beware: Retirement Properties) (T) 理查德·盖斯福德 (Richard Gaisford) 调查租赁制退休房产。 | 6.30 皇后之王 (The King of Queens) (T) (R) 7.45 大家都爱雷蒙 (Everybody Loves Raymond) (T) (R) 9.10 弗雷泽 (Frasier) (T) (R) 11.10 美国拾荒者 (American Pickers) (T) (R) 12.05 新闻 (T) 12.10 翻新国家 (Renovation Nation) (T) (R) 1.10 豪宅赠与 (The Great House Giveaway) (T) (R) 2.10 倒计时 (Countdown) (T) 3.0 阳光下的地方 (A Place in the Sun) (T) (R) 4.0 救命!我们买了个村庄 (Help! We Bought a Village) (T) 5.0 四人一床 (Four in a Bed) (T) 5.30 来我家吃饭 (Come Dine with Me) (T) (R) 6.0 阳光下的新生活:他们现在如何?(A New Life in the Sun: Where Are They Now?) (T) (R) 在夏朗德省的蒙博耶。 7.0 新闻 (T) 最新头条。 | 6.0 牛奶奶昔!(Milkshake!) 9.15 杰里米·Vine (Jeremy Vine) (T) 11.30 斯通与亚历克西斯 (Storm & Alexis) (T) 12.45 新闻 (T) 12.50 马特·奥尔赖特 (Matt Allwright) (T) 2.20 电影《奔跑、隐藏、逃脱》(Run, Hide, Escape) (John Murlowski, 2023) (T) 由凯拉·菲尔兹 (Kayla Fields) 主演的惊悚片。 4.0 阳光下热爱讨价还价的英国人 (Bargain-Loving Brits in the Sun) (T) (R) 5.0 新闻 (T) 6.0 康沃尔:海边的一年 (Cornwall: A Year by the Sea) (T) (R) 维里安和理查德确保岬角尽可能具有节日气氛。 6.55 新闻 (T) 7.0 萨姆与艾德观鸟 (Sam & Ade Go Birding) (T) 该二人组在繁殖季节探索威尔士。 7.55 新闻 (T) | 7.0 第二次世界大战:时间观察指南 (World War II: A Timewatch Guide) (T) 索尔·戴维 (Saul David) 梳理了第二次世界大战的历史,并探讨了我们对事件的理解如何发生变化。本系列最后一集。 | 8.0 名人叛徒 (The Celebrity Traitors) (T) 首次驱逐。 9.05 名人叛徒:揭秘 (The Celebrity Traitors: Uncloaked) (T) 埃德·甘布尔 (Ed Gamble) 和多位嘉宾分析城堡中的最新进展。 9.30 不在外面 (Not Going Out) (T) 李误以为他的英雄现在成了他最好的朋友。 | 8.0 蒙蒂·多恩的英国花园 (Monty Don's British Gardens) (T) (R) 主持人在英国各地旅行,以了解花园能揭示关于这个国家的人民、气候和历史的哪些信息。 9.0 外科医生:生命边缘 (Surgeons: At the Edge of Life) (T) (R) 专家移除一个危及生命的肿瘤。 | 8.0 艾默代尔 (Emmerdale) (T) 雅各布和莎拉做出了决定,比利提出去拜访盖比。 8.30 加冕街 (Coronation Street) (T) 肖娜和乔迪的不和达到了临界点。 9.0 寻找失散家人 (Long Lost Family) (T) (R) 本集中的两个故事都赞美了兄弟之间的纽带。 | 8.0 我们的微小岛屿 (Our Tiny Islands) (T) (R) 位于多尼戈尔郡 (Co Donegal) 德格湖 (Lough Derg) 的车站岛 (Station Island) 的守护者每年迎接超过 10,000 人进行为期三天、不进食且不穿鞋的朝圣。 9.05 任务大师 (Taskmaster) (T) 参赛者面对令人困惑的 Gregulator。 | 8.0 约克郡兽医 (The Yorkshire Vet) (T) 肖娜·西尔森 (Shona Searson) 检查了一头高地牛,并且 | 朱利安·诺顿与哈士奇一同骑行。9.0 Love Nature (T) 聚焦于伯明翰的萨顿公园。9.05 All Creatures Great and Small (T) 詹姆斯和西格弗里德尝试为一头牛进行风险手术。 | 8.0 电影《雷马根大桥》(John Guillermin, 1969) (T) 由乔治·塞加尔主演的第二次世界大战冒险片。9.55 电影《柳条人》(Robin Hardy, 1973) (T) 由爱德华·伍德沃德主演的经典恐怖片。< / > | 10.0 新闻 (T) 最新头条。10.30 Regional News (T) 天气 30 10.40 Question Time (T) 40 11.40 新闻播报 (T) 12.10 The Repair Shop: Beyond the Barn (T) (R) 1.10 天气 (T) 1.15 新闻 (T)< / > 10.0 Live at the Apollo (T) (R) 10.30 Newsnight (T) 天气 11.05 Uncanny (T) (R) 05 12.05 电影《美杜莎豪华版》(Thomas Hardiman, 2022) (T) 1.40 The Split Up (T) (R) 2.40 Blue Lights (T) (R)< / > 10.0 新闻 (T) 天气 10.30 当地新闻 (T) 天气 10.45 电影《最后的武士》(Edward Zwick, 2003) (T) 45 1.10 Shop on TV

3.0 The Chase Around the World (T) (R) 3.50 Unwind with ITV (T)< / > 10.05 Break Clause (T) 10.35 Break Clause (T) 11.10 Gogglebox (T) (R) 12.10 Pierre (T) (R) 1.0 Three Women (T) 1.55 Kitchen Nightmares USA (T) (R) 2.45 Tempting Fortune (T)< / > 10.0 All Creatures Great and Small: Behind the Scenes (R) 10.0 Alexander Armstrong in India (T) (R) 纪录片。11.05 999: Killer on the Line (T) 12.05 Fatal First Dates (T) 1.0 Cruise TV (T) (R)< / > 11.25 Ex-S: The Wicker Man (T) 11.55 Timeshift: Of Ice and Men (T) 关于南极洲的研究。12.55 Ancient Worlds (T) 1.55 Ex-S: The Wicker Man (T) 2.25 World War II: A Timewatch Guide (T)< / > | ---

周五 9

第4频道 (Channel 4)

📄 外文原文 ↗

Play for Today: Closing Time, 5, 9.05pm

莱拉 (Ellora Torchia) 在访问一家烤肉店期间陷入爱河

BBC Four

BBC One

📄 外文原文 ↗

白金汉宫:生活的一年,5, 8.35pm

本系列关于这座历史悠久的皇家住所的最后一集

6.0 Breakfast (T) 10.0 Saturday Kitchen Live (T) 11.30 Mary at 90: A Lifetime of Cooking (T) (R) 12.0 Bargain Hunt (T) (R) 12.45 The Football Interview (T) 1.0 News (T) 1.10 Weather (T) 1.15 Money for Nothing (T) (R) 2.0 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R) 3.0 Escape to the Country (T) (R) 3.45 Final Score (T) 5.10 News (T) 5.20 Regional News (T) Weather 5.25 Weather (T) 5.30 The Celebrity Inner Circle (T) 6.15 Strictly Come Dancing (T) 名人们再次表演。

9.20 Marble Hall Murders (T)

犯罪剧。苏珊通过拜访埃利奥特的叔叔乔纳森,进一步挖掘克雷斯庄园的秘密。阿提克斯和阿基里斯追踪埃尔默·韦史密斯的行踪。

10.10 News (T)

10.25 Weather (T)

10.30 Match of the Day (T)

11.50 电影《骨与所有》(Bones and All) (Luca Guadagnino, 2022) (T)

1.55 Weather for the Week Ahead (T) 2.0 News (T)

BBC Two

📄 外文原文 ↗

6.05 儿童节目

8.45 Gardeners' World (T)

(R) 9.45 This Wild Life (T)

(R) 10.15 电影《生与死》(A Matter of Life and Death) (1946) (T)

12.0 Marcus Wareing's Tales from a Kitchen Garden (T)

(R) 12.30 Nadiya's Everyday Baking (T) (R) 1.0 Natural World: Victoria Falls – The Smoke That Thunders (T) (R) 1.50 电影《艾玛》(Emma) (Autumn de Wilde, 2020) (T) 3.45 Flog It! (T) (R) 4.25 电影《蚊子中队》(Mosquito Squadron) (Boris Sagal, 1969) (T) 5.55 电影《大逃亡》(The Great Escape) (John Sturges, 1963) (T)

8.40 BBC 1976年四十首热门金曲 (T) 包含 Thin Lizzy, Joan Armatrading, Dolly Parton, Wings, John Miles, Brotherhood of Man, the Wurzels, the Sex Pistols, Elton John and Kiki Dee, Cliff Richard, the Rolling Stones 和 Abba 等艺人的音乐。

11.10 Abba at the BBC (T) (R)

令人难忘的电视亮相。

12.10 More Abba at the BBC (T)

(R) 1.10 Top of the Pops: The Story of 1976 (T) (R)

1.55 电影《一个家庭的简史》(Brief History of a Family) (林建杰, 2024)

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ITV1

6.0 James Martin's Islands

📄 外文原文 ↗

James Martin's Islands to Highlands (T) (R) 6.30 Love Your Weekend with Alan Titchmarsh (T) (R) 8.25 Prue Leith's Cotswold Kitchen (T) 9.25 News (T) 9.30 James Martin's Saturday Morning (T) 12.0 Clodagh: Cooking at Home (T) 12.30 News (T) Weather 12.45 ITV Racing; Live from Newmarket (T) 4.0 电影《侏罗纪公园3》(Jurassic Park III) (2001) (T) 5.40 Celebrity Lingo (T) (R) 6.10 News (T) 6.30 The Chase Celebrity Special (T) (R) 7.30 Win Win (T) 互动问答节目。

8.35 The Voice UK (T) Emma Willis 主持对决赛,教练们让他们的团队迎接迄今为止最艰巨的挑战。

9.45 Romesh Ranganathan's Parents' Evening (T) (R)

Larry Lamb, Motsi Mabuse, Josh Widdicombe 及其亲属参加。

10.45 News (T) Weather 11.05 English Football League Highlights (T)

📄 外文原文 ↗

12.35 Shop on TV 3.0 Dermot's Taste of Ireland 3.25 Clodagh: Cooking at Home (T) (R) 3.50 Unwind (T)

第4频道 (Channel 4)

📄 外文原文 ↗

6.15 Cheers (T) (R) 8.05 Everybody Loves Raymond (T) (R) 10.05 Frasier (T) (R) 11.35 The Simpsons (T) (R) 12.35 Four in a Bed (T) (R) 3.10 A Place in the Sun (T) (R) 3.55 The Great British Bake Off (T) (R) 5.30 News (T) 6.0 Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix Sprint Race And Qualifying Highlights (T) 赛季第17轮在滨海湾街道赛道的精彩瞬间,车手们在冲刺赛中争夺积分,随后为明天的起跑位置展开竞争。

7.30 电影《少数几个好人》(A Few Good Men) (Rob Reiner, 1992) (T) 由 Tom Cruise 和 Jack Nicholson 主演的法庭剧。在为两名被指控谋杀的海军陆战队员辩护期间,三名美国海军律师揭露了涉及一名高级军官的腐败行为。

10.0 电影《可怜的东西》(Poor Things) (约尔戈斯·兰斯莫斯, 2023) (T)

📄 外文原文 ↗

12.40 拉姆齐的酒店地狱 (Ramsay's Hotel Hell) (T) (R)

1.30 三个女人 (Three Women) (T) 2.30

辛普森一家 (The Simpsons) (T) (R) 5.0

周日早午餐 (Sunday Brunch) (T) (R) 5.05

克斯蒂的手工艺之家 (Kirstie's House of Craft) (R)

6.0 Milkshake! 9.0

📄 外文原文 ↗

Entertainment News on 5 (T) 9.05 玛丽女王号:海上皇室 (The Queen Mary: Royals at Sea) (T) (R) 10.0 汉普顿宫内部 (Inside Hampton Court Palace) (T) (R) 11.0 汉普顿宫内部 (Inside Hampton Court Palace) (T) (R) 1.0 皇室未删减版 (The Royals Uncensored) (T) 2.0 迈克尔·波蒂洛带你游西班牙 (Spain with Michael Portillo) (T) (R) 3.0 迈克尔·波蒂洛带你游西班牙 (Spain with Michael Portillo) (T) (R) 4.0 本·福格尔与被掩埋之城 (Ben Fogle and the Buried City) (T) (R) 5.30 罗尼双人组:失落的素描 (The Two Ronnies: The Lost Sketches) (T) (R) 喜剧。6.55 新闻 (T) 7.0 监狱生活:50年欢笑 (Porridge: 50 Years of Laughs) (T) (R)

8.35 白金汉宫:生活一年 (Buckingham Palace: A Year in the Life) (T) 纪实系列片。皇室住所为繁忙的秋季国事访问季做准备,工作人员规划从皇室宾客套房到宴会菜单的一切事务。本系列最后一集。

10.05 电影《公司》(The Firm) (西德尼·波拉克, 1993) (T)

📄 外文原文 ↗

1.0 必须拥有的创意 (Must Have Ideas) (T) 3.0 汉普顿宫内部 (Inside Hampton Court Palace) (T) (R) 4.35 迈克尔·波蒂洛带你游西班牙 5.20 娱乐新闻 (T)

BBC Four

📄 外文原文 ↗

7.0 西蒙·金的设得兰冒险 (Simon King's Shetland Adventure) (T) 野生动物摄影师拍摄了潜水捕鱼的塘鹅,观察了一群虎鲸,并记录了一个水獭家庭的分离。本纪录片系列最后一集。

8.0 穿山甲——全球最受追捧的动物 (Pangolins – The World's Most Wanted Animal) (T)

探讨拯救全球非法贸易最严重的动物所做的努力。

9.0 电影《北极护航队》(The Arctic Convoy) (亨里克·马丁·达尔斯巴肯, 2023) 安德斯·巴斯莫·克里斯蒂安森主演的剧情片。挪威语。

10.40 《天生贵族》(To the Manor Born) (T)

比尔·特拉弗斯客串主演。

11.15 《维持体面》(Keeping Up Appearances)

11.45 时空转移:饮酒规则 (Timeshift: The Rules of Drinking) (T)

12.45 西蒙·金的设得兰冒险 (Simon King's Shetland Adventure) (T)

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周日

Radio 3

📄 外文原文 ↗

6.30am 早餐 9.0 周日早晨 12.0 私密激情 1.30 音乐地图 3.0 In Concert: Steve Reich at 90 4.30 In Concert: Steve Reich at 90 6.0 In Concert: Steve Reich at 90 8.30 周日专题:将要下雨 9.15 与汉娜·皮尔一起玩铜管乐队 10.15 夜间轨道 11.30 未分类 12.30 彻夜

Radio 4

📄 外文原文 ↗

6.0am 新闻头条 6.05

难以置信 6.35 你的农场

7.0 新闻;周日报纸 7.10

周日 7.54 Radio 4 呼吁

8.0 新闻;周日报纸 8.10

周日礼拜 8.48 见证历史 8.58 今日推文 9.0

广播大楼 10.0 荒岛唱片 11.0 亚契斯 (The Archers)

12.15 剖析 12.30 不可言说

1.0 本周末的世界 1.30 美国的选区划分军备竞赛 2.0 园艺问答时间 2.45 十秒决胜

3.0 戏剧:士兵回归

4.0 书友会 4.30 英国之脑

5.0 见证历史 5.10 动词 5.54 航运预报 6.0

六点新闻 6.15 每周精选 7.0 亚契斯 (The Archers) 7.15 第三人综合征 7.45 大英博物馆之贼 8.0 口耳相传 8.30 最后之言 9.0 钱袋子 9.26 Radio 4 呼吁 9.30 来自我们的特派员

10.0 威斯敏斯特小时 11.0 在我们的时代 11.45 短篇作品 12.0 新闻与天气 12.15 跨越大陆 12.45 周日钟声

12.48 航运预报 1.0 作为 BBC 世界服务 5.0 新闻摘要 5.04 最后之言 5.34 航运预报 5.43 今日祷告 5.45 今日农业

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周一

Radio 3

📄 外文原文 ↗

6.30am 早餐 9.30 经典精选 1.0 古典现场 4.0 本周作曲家:威尼斯学派 5.0 In Tune 7.0 古典混音带 7.30 音乐会 9.45 论文:走向晚祷 10.0 夜间轨道 11.30 午夜时分 12.30 彻夜

Radio 4

📄 外文原文 ↗

上午6:00《今日》(Today) 9:00《开启一周》(Start the Week) 9:45《希望咖啡馆》(Café Hope) 10:00《女性时间》(Woman's Hour) 11:00《另一个国家》(Another Country),主持人:詹姆斯·雷班克斯 (James Rebanks) 11:45《去还是不去》(To Go or Not to Go) 12:00 新闻 12:04《你和我》(You and Yours) 下午1:00《世界》(The World) 1:45《转折点》(The Turning Point) 2:00《弓箭手》(The Archers) 2:15《宝贝简·奥斯汀怎么了?》(Whatever Happened to Baby Jane Austen?) 2:45《信仰、希望与荣耀》(Faith, Hope and Glory) 3:00《伟大的生活》(Great Lives) 3:30《奇案》(Curious Cases) 4:00《美国的选区划分军备竞赛》(America's Gerrymandering Arms Race) 4:30《回放》(Rewinder) 5:00 PM 6:00 六点新闻 6:30《不可言说》(Unspeakable) 7:00《弓箭手》(The Archers) 7:15《前排》(Front Row) 8:00《重新思考》(Rethink) 8:30《BBC 内部科学》(BBC Inside Science) 9:00《开启一周》(Start the Week) 9:45《希望咖啡馆》(Café Hope) 10:00《今夜世界》(The World Tonight) 10:45《睡前书:车站》(Book at Bedtime: Stations) 11:00《钴》(Cobalt) 11:30《伟大的生活》(Great Lives) 12:00 新闻与天气 12:30《去还是不去》(To Go or Not to Go) 12:48 航运预报 1:00 转播 BBC 世界服务 5:00 新闻摘要、头条 5:04《美国的选区划分军备竞赛》(America's Gerrymandering Arms Race) 5:34 航运预报 5:43 今日祷告 5:45 今日农业

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周二

Radio 3

📄 外文原文 ↗

上午6:30 早餐 9:30 经典精选 1:00 古典现场 下午4:00 本周作曲家:威尼斯学派 5:00 协调 7:00 古典混音带 7:30 音乐会 9:45 论文:走向晚祷

10:00 夜间轨道 11:30 午夜时分 12:30 彻夜

Radio 4

📄 外文原文 ↗

上午6:00《今日》(Today) 9:00《科学生活》(The Life Scientific) 9:30《心中所有》(All in the Mind) 10:00《女性时间》(Woman's Hour) 11:00《屏幕截图》(Screenshot) 11:45《去还是不去》(To Go or Not to Go) 12:00 新闻 12:04《呼叫你和我》(Call You and Yours) 下午1:00《世界》(The World) 1:45《转折点》(The Turning Point) 2:00《弓箭手》(The Archers) 2:15 戏剧:《名为家的地方》(A Place Called Home) 3:00《历史的秘密英雄》(History's Secret Heroes) 3:30《超越信仰》(Beyond Belief) 4:00 角色扮演 4:30《纪录片怎么了?》(What's Up Docs?) 5:00 PM 6:00 六点新闻 6:30《杰夫·诺科特的工人俱乐部》(Geoff Norcott's Working Men's Club) 7:00《弓箭手》(The Archers) 7:15《前排》(Front Row) 8:00《File on 4 调查》(File on 4 Investigates) 8:40 保持联系 9:00《第三人综合征》(Third Man Syndrome) 9:30《底线》(The Bottom Line) 10:00《今夜世界》(The World Tonight) 10:45《睡前书:车站》(Book at Bedtime: Stations) 11:00《半衰期》(Half-Life) 11:30《伟大的生活》(Great Lives) 12:00 新闻与天气 12:30《去还是不去》(To Go or Not to Go) 12:48 航运预报 1:00 转播 BBC 世界服务 5:00 新闻摘要 5:04《BBC 内部科学》(BBC Inside Science) 5:34 航运预报 5:43 今日祷告 5:45 今日农业

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周三

Radio 3

📄 外文原文 ↗

上午6:30 早餐 9:30 经典精选 1:00 古典现场 3:00 合唱晚祷 4:00 本周作曲家:威尼斯学派 5:00 协调 7:00 古典混音带 7:30 音乐会 9:45 论文:走向晚祷 10:00 夜间轨道 11:30 午夜时分 12:30 彻夜。音乐混编。

Radio 4

📄 外文原文 ↗

上午6:00《今日》(Today) 9:00《多或少》(More or Less) 9:30《奥斯汀·泰斯在哪里?》(Where Is Austin Tice?) 10:00《女性时间》(Woman's Hour) 11:00《File on 4 调查》(File on 4 Investigates) 11:40 本周历史 11:45《去还是不去》(To Go or Not to Go) 12:00 新闻 12:04《你和我》(You and Yours)

下午1:00《世界》(The World) 1:45《转折点》(The Turning Point) 2:00《弓箭手》(The Archers) 2:15 戏剧:《名为家的地方》(A Place Called Home) 3:00《钱箱》(Money Box) 3:30《人造人》(The Artificial Human) 4:00《当事情搞砸时》(When It Hits the Fan) 4:15《媒体秀》(The Media Show) 5:00 PM 6:00 六点新闻 6:30《格伦·摩尔的年鉴》(Glenn Moore's Almanac) 7:00《弓箭手》(The Archers) 7:15《前排》(Front Row) 8:00《为了历史而在此》(Here for the History) 8:30 顶级评论 9:00《科学生活》(The Life Scientific) 9:30《心中所有》(All in the Mind) 10:00《今夜世界》(The World Tonight) 10:45《睡前书:车站》(Book at Bedtime: Stations) 11:00《基里的农场》(Kiri's Farm) 11:15《大而小的问题》(Big Little Questions) 11:30《伟大的生活》(Great Lives) 12:00 新闻与天气 12:30《去还是不去》(To Go or Not to Go) 12:48 航运预报 1:00 转播 BBC 世界服务 5:00 新闻摘要 5:04《多或少》(More or Less) 5:34 航运预报 5:43 今日祷告 5:45 今日农业

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周四

Radio 3

📄 外文原文 ↗

上午6:30 早餐 9:30 经典精选 1:00 古典现场 4:00 本周作曲家:威尼斯学派 5:00 协调 7:00 古典混音带 7:30 音乐会 9:45 论文:走向晚祷 10:00 夜间轨道 11:30 午夜时分 12:30 彻夜

Radio 4

📄 外文原文 ↗

6.0am 今日 (Today) 9.0 我们的时代 (In Our Time)

9.45 此处有强信号 (Strong Message Here) 10.0

女性时间 (Woman's Hour) 11.0 文化生活 (This Cultural Life)

11.45 去还是不去 (To Go or Not to Go) 12.0

新闻 12.04 底线 (The Bottom Line) 12.32

切片面包 (Sliced Bread) 1.0 世界 (The World) 1.45

转折点 (The Turning Point) 2.0 弓箭手 (The Archers)

2.15 戏剧:名为家的地方 (A Place Called Home)

3.0 漫谈 (Ramblings) 3.27 Radio 4 呼吁

3.30 反馈 (Feedback) 4.0 简报室 (The Briefing Room)

4.30 BBC 内部科学 (Inside Science)

5.0 PM 6.0 六点新闻 6.30

行善者 (Do Gooders) 7.0 弓箭手 (The Archers) 7.15

前排 (Front Row) 8.0 当事情失控时 (When It Hits the Fan)

8.15 媒体秀 (The Media Show) 9.0 松散的结局 (Loose Ends)

9.45 此处有强信号 (Strong Message Here) 10.0 今夜世界 (The World Tonight) 10.45 睡前书:车站 (Stations) 11.0 激进 (Radical) 11.30 伟大人生 (Great Lives) 12.0 新闻与天气 12.30 去还是不去 (To Go or Not to Go) 12.48 航运预报 1.0

接 BBC 世界服务 5.0 新闻摘要:最新头条。 5.04 简报室 5.34 航运预报 5.43 今日祷告 5.45 今日农业

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星期五

Radio 3

📄 外文原文 ↗

6.30am 早餐 (Breakfast) 9.30 经典精选 (Essential Classics) 1.0 古典现场 (Classical Live) 4.0 本周作曲家:威尼斯学派 (The Venetian School) 5.0 协调 (In Tune) 7.0 古典混音带 (Classical Mixtape) 7.30 周五音乐之夜 9.45 论文:走向晚祷 (Towards Evensong) 10.0 晚间接点 (Late Junction) 11.30 午夜时分 ('Round Midnight) 12.30 彻夜 (Through the Night)

Radio 4

📄 外文原文 ↗

6.0am 今日 (Today) 9.0 荒岛唱片 (Desert Island Discs) 10.0 女性时间 (Woman's Hour) 11.0 食品节目 (The Food Programme) 11.45 去还是不去 (To Go or Not to Go) 12.0 新闻 12.04 反社交 (AntiSocial) 1.0 世界 (The World) 1.45 转折点 (The Turning Point) 2.0 弓箭手 (The Archers) 2.15 戏剧:地下 (Underground) 2.45 当班克西来到这座城市 (When Banksy Comes to Town) 3.0 园丁问答时间 (Gardeners' Question Time) 3.45 短篇作品 (Short Works) 4.0 最后的话 (Last Word) 4.30 或多或少 (More or Less) 5.0 PM 6.0 六点新闻 6.30 新闻问答 (The News Quiz) 7.0 弓箭手 (The Archers) 7.15 屏幕截图 (Screenshot) 8.0 有任何问题吗? (Any Questions?)。Alex Forsyth 主持这场政治论坛,观众将征询四位领袖人物的意见。 8.55 本周历史 9.0 自由思考 (Free Thinking) 10.0 今夜世界 (The World Tonight) 10.45 睡前书:车站 (Stations) 11.0 美国播报 (Americast) 11.30 安加迪夫妇 (Mr and Mrs Angadi) 12.0 新闻与天气 12.30 去还是不去 (To Go or Not to Go) 12.48 航运预报 1.0

接 BBC 世界服务 5.30 新闻摘要 5.34 航运预报 5.43 今日祷告 5.45 当班克西来到这座城市

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星期六

Radio 3

📄 外文原文 ↗

6.30am 早餐 (Breakfast) 9.0 周六早晨 12.0 早期...与 Jools Holland 1.0 关键变化:Radio 3 古典音乐核心史 2.0 唱片评论 (Record Review) 4.0 电影之声 (Sound of Cinema) 5.0 古典生活 (This Classical Life) 6.0 Radio 3 歌剧 9.30 音乐星球 (Music Planet) 10.30 新音乐秀 (New Music Show) 12.30 彻夜 (Through the Night)

Radio 4

📄 外文原文 ↗

6.0am 新闻与报纸 6.07 漫谈 (Ramblings) 6.30 本周今日农业 7.0 今日 (Today) 9.0 周六直播 (Saturday Live) 10.0 奇案 (Curious Cases) 10.30 吉他故事 (The Guitar Story) 11.0 激进 (Radical) 11.30 来自我们的通讯员 12.0 新闻 12.04 钱袋子 (Money Box) 12.30 新闻问答 (The News Quiz) 1.0 新闻 1.10 有任何问题吗? (Any Questions?) 2.05 有任何答案吗? (Any Answers?) 2.45 弓箭手 (The Archers) 3.0 戏剧:雾中之卢德 (Lud-in-the-Mist) 4.0 周末女性时间 5.0 周六 PM 5.30 政治思考 (Political Thinking),由 Nick Robinson 主持 5.54 航运预报 6.0 六点新闻 6.15 松散的结局 (Loose Ends) 7.0 剖析 (Profile) 7.15 文化生活 (This Cultural Life) 8.0 Radio 4 档案:感恩而死乐队比披头士更重要 9.0 希特勒日记丑闻 10.0 新闻 10.15 食品节目 (The Food Programme) 11.0 你的母亲 (Your Mum) 11.30 英国之脑 (Brain of Britain)。由 Russell Davies 主持的全国通用知识竞赛第 11 场预赛。 12.0 午夜新闻 12.15 书友会 (Bookclub)。James Naughtie 与 Daniel Mason 对谈。 12.48 航运预报 1.0

接 BBC 世界服务 5.30 新闻摘要 5.34 航运预报 5.43 周日钟声 (Bells on Sunday) 5.45 保持联系 (In Touch)

芭芭拉·艾伦 (Barbara Ellen)

📄 外文原文 ↗

《名人叛徒》(The Celebrity Traitors)

BBC One

《战争》(War)

天空大西洋频道 / Now

主持人克劳迪娅·温克尔曼 (Claudia Winkleman) 回到阿德罗斯城堡参加第二季《名人叛徒》;上方为《战争》中的塞娜·米勒 (Sienna Miller) 和多米尼克·韦斯特 (Dominic West)。BBC / Studio Lambert / Euan Cherry

第二季《名人叛徒》——这场极致的欺骗心理游戏——已经到来:披风飞扬,塔楼聚集,反转不断。我必须提醒您,接下来的内容包含剧透。

因为没有人能在看完长达 75 分钟的首集后,不对苏格兰高地阿德罗斯城堡上空阴郁的天空发出这样的疑问:以克劳迪娅·温克尔曼那油渍般的刘海之名,理查德·E·格兰特 (Richard E Grant) 到底在搞什么鬼?

在圆桌会议上被任命为“叛徒”后(与《爱之岛》主持人玛雅·贾马 (Maya Jama) 一起),这位出演过《我和威特内尔》的演员竟然得意洋洋地向其他人宣布了自己的身份。播音员阿莫尔·拉詹 (Amol Rajan) 将格兰特称为“混乱之主”。喜剧演员罗布·贝克特 (Rob Beckett) 观察到:“你刚刚做了一件在这个游戏中从未发生过的事情。”贾马则说:“这就像有一个精神失常的叔叔在城堡里横冲直撞。”在被迫假装自己在开玩笑后,格兰特私下怀疑自己是否犯了“错误”。你觉得呢?

作为《叛徒》全球特许经营巨无霸的衍生剧,《名人叛徒》去年为 BBC赢得了最高观众人数,决赛吸引了 1500 万观众。参赛者包括乔纳森·罗斯 (Jonathan Ross)、斯蒂芬·弗雷 (Stephen Fry) 和汤姆·戴利 (Tom Daley),而某些瞬间(塞莉亚·伊姆里 (Celia Imrie) 的屁、帕洛玛·费思 (Paloma Faith) 愤怒的提前离场、叛徒艾伦·卡尔 (Alan Carr) 像个游戏节目版的伊阿古一样踉踉跄跄且抽搐地走向胜利)定义了当时的时代精神。

这一次,由 21 位明星组成的阵容再次让其他真人秀看起来像名人坟场,成员包括演员迈克尔·辛 (Michael Sheen)、贝拉·拉姆齐 (Bella Ramsey) 和杰里·霍尔 (Jerry Hall)(“在这个傻金发女郎之下,隐藏着一个聪明的棕发女郎”)、音乐人詹姆斯·布朗特 (James Blunt),以及喜剧演员乔·莱塞特 (Joe Lycett)、乔安娜·麦克纳利 (Joanne McNally)、詹姆斯·阿卡斯特 (James Acaster)、罗梅什·兰加纳森 (Romesh Ranganathan) 和米兰达·哈特 (Miranda Hart)。有趣的是,并非每个人都想成为叛徒;成为一名“忠诚者”可能更时髦:“我浑身散发着模范生的气息,”汉娜·弗雷 (Hannah Fry) 教授说道。

温克尔曼乘坐棺材抵达(该系列总是提供哥特式的视觉效果),佩戴着一个巨大的层叠蕾丝衣领,这似乎注定会自动成为网络迷因(例如“你绝对不敢相信小法恩特勒罗伊现在长什么样”等等)。

无法避免的是那些为了增加10 万英镑慈善奖金池而进行的乏味任务(这是《叛徒》的致命缺陷),以及参赛者在海盗船附近冰冷的湖水中嬉戏的冗长胡闹(“我当时真想在潜水服里尿一点,好让它暖和起来,”贾马说道)。但至少,“电视硬汉”主持人罗斯·肯普 (Ross Kemp) 在拉姆齐把顶帽子戴在他头上时爆发的偏执,以及随后在 Little Mix 组合的利安-安·皮诺克 (Leigh-Anne Pinnock) 揉他的手臂时再次爆发的反应,让节目变得生动起来——这两次他都坚信自己正被当众谋杀。

首集的重大反转是,温克尔曼仅选择了两名叛徒,而格兰特和贾马必须再选择两人:一人成为第三名叛徒,另一人被谋杀。这个机制已经在《加拿大叛徒》以及目前在美国播出的《叛徒:新血》(The Traitors: New Blood) 中使用过,但当它导致拉詹和阿卡斯特在节目中烛光闪烁的小教堂里为自己的生命(或者说是出镜时间?)乞求时,谁还在意呢?

《名人版叛徒》(The Celebrity Traitors)之所以成功,是因为尽管披上了星光外衣,它仍保留了原版的核心基调:背叛、夸张的表演以及被重新包装成轻娱乐的阴暗冲动。即便如此,这对于该系列来说可能是个危险时期:这个模式是否终于开始出现裂痕,变得过于自我意识或自满?

“名气在这里完全没有权力,”温克尔曼(Winkleman)语气低沉地说道,但事实真是如此吗?上次,城堡中不时闪现出潜在的地位焦虑,你会感觉到那些“忠诚者”在投票驱逐“大佬”罗斯(Ross)时心存顾虑。现在是否必须将格兰特(Grant)放逐,以证明这个模式对一线明星绝无仁慈?

一切都将揭晓。与此同时,能有《名人版叛徒》——

以及在它结束后,由《叛徒》回归,在即将到来的冬季阴郁中点亮一盏摇曳的灯笼,真是件幸事。除此之外,我们还能安全地讨论什么而不会引发一场文化战争的崩溃?如果《名人版叛徒》不存在,它应该被开成处方药,用来改善国民的心理健康。

在天空大西洋频道(Sky Atlantic)和Now平台上,由乔治·凯(George Kay,《劫机》、《鲁邦》)创作的崭新法律剧《战争》(War)讲述了由多米尼克·韦斯特(Dominic West)饰演的科技大佬摩根(Morgan),以及由塞娜·米勒(Sienna Miller)饰演的好莱坞演员卡拉(Carla),这对夫妇卷入了一场高能的“世纪离婚案”。

在获得一项奖项后,摩根与一名年轻女性(罗斯·威廉姆斯 饰)发生了关系,而此人随后被证明是由卡拉组织的“美人计”。这对夫妇组建了离婚律师团队,为了摩根那家主打伦理的社交媒体平台所创造的天文数字财富展开激战。他选择了一家由一对厚颜无耻的“食人鱼”律师(由皮普·托伦斯和妮娜·索萨尼亚饰演)领导的主流律所。与此同时,他的妻子雇佣了相对的新手(由詹姆斯·麦卡德尔和菲比·福克斯饰演),而他们雄心勃勃的新雇员约翰尼(阿奇·雷诺 饰)则隐藏着可能令此案爆炸的秘密。

在最出色的部分,《战争》将一桶冰水泼在了巨额财富及其渴望者们的傲慢之上。在向一名男性下属开出 100 万英镑 的条件要求其脱衣后,摩根撤回了提议,随后疲惫地说道:“人们为了分到一杯羹,没有什么是不愿意尝试的;为了贬低自己、羞辱自己和你,没有什么事是他们不愿做的。”当卡拉讥讽地玩弄她那迷人的公众形象(“我是个演员——我知道我的台词”),并冷酷地对摩根及其律师表达不满时,这个角色变得鲜活起来。

《战争》已经计划拍摄第二季,但这部剧似乎更多是在关注律师事务所。随着八集剧情的展开,它有时会在混乱中丢失摩根和卡拉的重心,变得过于像肥皂剧:像是一部缺乏荆棘的《玫瑰战争》。当韦斯特和米勒的明星魅力被充分利用时,效果更好,从而引发对媒体侵扰、操纵型律师以及在天文数字金额上抱怨和讨价还价之伦理的沉思。我们关心这些人吗?大概不关心。但这并不妨碍这部剧具有趣味性。

观看清单

📄 外文原文 ↗

芭芭拉·艾伦(Barbara Ellen)推荐的其他佳作

《伊甸之东》

(Netflix)

对约翰·斯坦贝克 1952 年小说的改编,由佐伊·卡赞(Zoe Kazan)执导,她是原版《伊甸之东》电影导演埃利亚·卡赞(Elia Kazan)的孙女。在缓慢的开局之后,佛罗伦斯·皮尤(Florence Pugh,见下图)和克里斯托弗·艾博特(Christopher Abbott)带来了生动的表演。

《冬季》

(ITV1)

一部令人亢奋的惊悚剧,理查德·阿米蒂奇(Richard Armitage)在剧中饰演一名在布里斯托工作的病理学家,他喜欢与尸体聊天。一名女性的冰冻尸体被发现。

《蓝光》

(BBC One)

这部备受赞誉的贝尔法斯特警察剧回归,剧中充满了原始的政治和个人紧张关系。再次由希安·布鲁克(Siân Brooke)、马丁·麦坎(Martin McCann)和凯瑟琳·德夫林(Katherine Devlin)主演。

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THE OBSERVER

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ANDY BURNHAM'S VISION

The road

back from

Brexit

'Nobody was expecting this.'

How the prime minister astonished his closest colleagues on Europe

by Rachel Sylvester

Plus, The Observer view 'His opening to Europe has the potential to be historic'

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THE OBSERVER

Established 1791

ANDY BURNHAM'S VISION

The road

back from

Brexit

'Nobody was expecting this.'

How the prime minister astonished his closest colleagues on Europe

by Rachel Sylvester

Plus, The Observer view 'His opening to Europe has the potential to be historic'

#1

We are the UK's best brand for customer service.

[THE OBSERVER VIEW | Road to joy] Andy Burnham's speech on Brexit and Europe could be historic, offering a chance to make the positive case for EU membership that was missed in 2016

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[THE OBSERVER VIEW | Road to joy] Andy Burnham's speech on Brexit and Europe could be historic, offering a chance to make the positive case for EU membership that was missed in 2016

H ope is in the air, because

finally a prime minister has

been honest about Brexit

For years now, a clear majority of British voters have been saying Brexit was a mistake. At last, politics is catching up.

Andy Burnham's speech to Labour last week will be remembered as bold on social care and electoral reform whether or not he finds the money and spends the political capital to turn his ideas into action. But his honesty on Brexit and his opening to Europe have the potential to be truly historic, for three reasons.

First, he showed he wasn't a prisoner of the red wall; that unlike Keir Starmer he isn't prepared to govern in fear of a rebellion by Labour Brexit voters. His promise of options for a new relationship with Europe before the EU-UK summit in November was an essential first step towards striking out Starmer's red lines against rejoining the EU single market or customs union. His confirmation the next day that these options could include going “all the way” was not vague or accidental. It was part of a plan to show he is not just thinking what was previously unthinkable but preparing for what is best for the country.

Second, European leaders saw this step for what it was and welcomed it. France's Emmanuel Macron called it “excellent news”. Pedro Sánchez said Spain would welcome Britain back “with open arms”. A European Commission spokesman said it was “open to engaging on the options [Britain] may put forward”.

Third, the Office for Budget Responsibility consistently projects that rejoining fully would yield substantially more in terms of GDP growth for the UK than any intermediate steps. A bid to rejoin is also far more likely to attract the attention of EU heads of government, as Macron and Sánchez have shown. Incremental resets like those sought by Starmer sit at the bottom of the European Commission's to-do list and anyway leave the UK a rule-taker.

This, then, is an opportunity to make the positive case for EU membership that neither David Cameron nor Jeremy Corbyn made in 2016. It rests on benefits and shared priorities: the benefits of frictionless trade with 500 million people, deeper food and energy security, targeted urban development aid, new vistas for students and scientists (not to mention musicians) and the freedom to live and work in 27 countries beside the UK. As for shared priorities, Europe's inheritance from the Second World War is a good start and it consists of peace, democracy, free markets and the rule of law.

Reasonable people will object that the EU in 2026 is too keen on regulation and too willing to put up with low single-digit growth while the US and East Asia saddle up on AI stallions to leave the old world in their dust. The EU is obviously flawed and has always been a work in progress. Rejoining has to be a practical mission, not an ideological one. Now, as in 2016, the argument should be for membership of a reformed bloc that shelves ever-closer union, accelerates the creation of a single market for financial services and enacts all of Mario

of a single market for financial services and enacts all of Mario Draghi's 2024 competitiveness agenda. That would speed up the rate the UK claws back the £100bn a year it has foregone by cutting itself adrift but it would also make the EU richer, stronger and more confident.

Ten years is a long time. Sceptics may say the rise of the European hard right in the past decade makes rejoining less tempting. But if they look beyond Europe's horizons they should see this as a reason to rejoin, not stay out. Reform, Restore, the AfD and France's National Rally are of a piece with Trumpism and Putinism. The EU is the world's best defence against the malice and misinformation on which they thrive. It needs and deserves Britain's support as much as Britain would benefit from membership.

years is long enough, too, for structural change in the electorate and for a country to change its mind. Nearly twice as many Brexiteers as Remainers have died since 2016, while among the newly enfranchised Rejoiners outnumber Brexiteers by five to one.

The UK had in fact changed its mind about Brexit well before

mind about Brexit well before Starmer entered Number 10, but he could not bring himself to acknowledge this or act on it. The failure of Brexit was an elephant in Downing Street. Burnham has done the country a great service in calling out the elephant and calling time on Starmer's incrementalism. Now he has to see it through, laying out the options as promised and making crystal clear which one is best for Britain. It is to rejoin.

The lesson of Christa Pike

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The lesson of Christa Pike

There is a solution to the horrifying spectacle of a botched execution.

Stop executing people.

The convicted murderer Christa Pike was alive but in critical condition yesterday after surviving two doses of supposedly lethal pentobarbital. The US supreme court had previously cleared

the way for her to become the first woman in more than 200 years to be put to death in Tennessee.

Death penalty opponents have seized on her case as more evidence of the barbarity of executions, which it is. Pike's lawyers say the execution team failed at least seven times to find a vein in her arm and showed "deliberate indifference to her basic medical needs": Part of the problem for US prison authorities is sourcing drugs that no respectable pharmaceutical company will supply for the purpose and expertise that no trained medic can offer without violating their vocation. But the bigger problem is that they are administering a punishment which doesn't work. Year in,

year out, murder rates are higher in the 27 US states that have the death penalty than in those that don't, according to the non-partisan Death Penalty Information Center. For every eight people on death row, one is exonerated. At least three innocent people have been executed since the supreme court reinstated the penalty in 1976, and at least 51 attempted executions by lethal injection have been botched since 1982.

State-wide death penalty moratoriums are on the rise and overall numbers of executions in the US have been falling steadily for quarter of a century. But it is still the only western democracy where the penalty is available to prosecutors, which should not be a source of pride.

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'I watch Air Crash Investigation'

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'I watch Air Crash Investigation'

Yaniv Hayun, who helped save a FlyDubai flight from disaster, on how he knew what to do to stop the plane crashing

The week in brief

Widdecombe accused faces Farage charge

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Widdecombe accused faces Farage charge

Joshua Kerry, who is accused of murdering Ann Widdecombe, was charged on Friday with preparing acts of terror against Nigel Farage. The charge relates to alleged terrorist activities between May 2024 and July 2026. Shabana Mahmood, the home secretary, said: “Let no one make any mistake: an attack on anyone in politics is an attack on us all.” Kerry was charged in July with the murder of Widdecombe, who was a Reform UK spokesperson. She died on 9 July at her home in Devon. Kerry is due to appear in court on Wednesday.

£112

A fire in a street in Aubervilliers, north-east of Paris, where students clashed with police in protests over school conditions. The government said more than 400 protesters, including children, were detained. Tom Nicholson/Getty Images

The price of Meghan Markle's new chocolate advent calendar

Green party to vote on Zionism motion

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Green party to vote on Zionism motion

Green party members are set to vote on the controversial motion “Zionism is racism” today at their conference in Brighton. If the motion passes, it will change official party policy. The motion says that “Zionism... will be treated as any other form of racism, and this motion will be implemented by the anti-racism policy working group as appropriate and in accordance with its ordinary practice”. Former MP Caroline Lucas said on the Today programme that she had “serious concerns” about the motion and would not support it. Leader Zack Polanski refused to set out his views but said he was “calling for an amendment” to specify that it would not be used to discipline Jewish members attending synagogues that consider themselves Zionist.

Prisoners released early hard to track

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Prisoners released early hard to track

Probation officers warned that they may struggle to keep track of the hundreds of prisoners released from jail last Thursday, many of whom will not have anywhere to live. About 2,000 criminals are set to be freed over the next month and another 3,000 in stages over the next year in an attempt to ease overcrowding. The Ministry of Justice says it is launching its biggest expansion of electronic monitoring – with the expectation that offenders leaving prison will be tagged and monitored. However, a new report said that only 55% of GPS tags were fitted on time.

Government scraps judge-only trial plan

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Government scraps judge-only trial plan

The lord chancellor Alex Norris announced that the proposal for some criminal trials to be heard by a judge alone has been dropped, meaning more serious cases will be heard by a jury. But defendants will lose the right to choose whether their case goes before a jury or a

magistrate. Complex fraud cases will still be heard by a judge and magistrates' sentencing powers will be increased to try to tackle the backlog of more than 80,000 cases. The changes will be made to the courts and tribunals bill when it returns to the Commons next week.

French pupils protest over state of schools Thousands of French teenagers protested outside their schools in

The Observer news matrix anger at overcrowded classrooms, unsanitary facilities and a shortage of teachers. More than 500 schools faced disruption on Friday as young people took to the streets. President Emmanuel Macron said he could “understand the anxiety, the anger” of protesting students, but that “none of these debates, none of these fears justifies violence”. The protests are set to grow, as trade unions have called for members to join a protest on 6 October, saying that “today’s students... must not pay the price of austerity policies”.

Slim now, pay later: pharmacies warned about hard sell of diet pills

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Slim now, pay later: pharmacies warned about hard sell of diet pills

Retailers deny they are

breaking advertising

rules by marketing

weight-loss medication

and online services

Jon Ungoed-Thomas & Marine Saint

Sales of new diet pills that are part of the UK's multibillion pound obesity treatment industry are being promoted with “buy now, pay later” credit, discounted prices and loyalty points, despite a ban on advertising prescription medicines themselves.

Two brands of prescription weight-loss pills – Wegovy and Foundayo – manufactured by Novo Nordisk and Eli Lilly were approved for use earlier this year. The pills are on track to be blockbuster drugs and have triggered a marketing drive from pharmacy firms and weight-loss services.

It is illegal to publish an advertisement or promotional material in the UK that is likely to lead to the use of prescription-only medicine. The Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA) warned in June that drugs are not “ordinary consumer goods” and improper use may have serious health consequences.

'Many promotions are inducing demand and would appear in breach of the law'

📖 中文精读 ↗

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'Many promotions are inducing demand and would appear in breach of the law'

An Observer analysis of marketing of the authorised drugs has found promotions likely to result in increased uptake of the newly approved pills. The investigation has found:

\- The high street pharmacy Superdrug offers bonus points on its health and beautycard to customers wanting to buy Wegovy or Foundayo tablets.

\- Asda's online doctor service says patients can “get started” on Wegovy or Foundayo, with prices from £87.97 a month. It promotes credit with PayPal Pay in 3, which offers payment over three instalments.

  • The online chemist pharmacyonline.co.uk offers a deal on prescription drugs on the discount code website Groupon. The promotion says: “Up to £90 off the Wegovy pill. Only 7 days left.”

Major retailers say they are complying with all relevant regulations and are promoting their weight consultancy services, rather than prescription drugs. Campaigners are calling for tougher actions to prohibit the promotions of weight-loss drugs.

James Larkin, the Centre for Evidence and Values

“Many of these promotions are likely inducing demand for prescription drugs and, as such, would appear in breach of the law,” James Larkin, from the Centre for Evidence and Values, said. “There is a failure of regulation.”

A breach of the relevant regulation in the Human Medicines Regulations 2012 is a criminal offence, with possible penalties of unlimited fines and up to two years in prison.

One of the most high-profile campaigns that has generated complaints is an advert by the digital health platform Voy on London buses since late July 2026, and on Facebook, with the strapline “the weight is over” and the picture of a pill.

The ad is assumed to be promoting prescription weight-loss pills, but the small print in a disclaimer indicates the pill being advertised contains glucomannan, an over-the-counter weight-loss supplement. The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) confirmed this weekend it has launched a formal investigation into the ad, with a ruling expected shortly.

Online pharmacy Bolt Healthcare promotes weight-loss treatments with the strapline “The Wegovy pill is finally here”. It offers savings of £20 a month for subscribers choosing Wegovy or Foundayo pills. The promoted cost of prescription weight-loss pills on the website ranges from about £25 to £28 a week. Prescription weight-loss injections range from about £20 a week for Wegovy to about £38 a week for Mounjaro.

In 2025 and 2026, the ASA has upheld 27 rulings concerning the promotion of prescription-only obesity medicines, but none to date has involved Wegovy or Foundayo tablets. It has upheld complaints against pharmacyonline.co.uk; Medwell Ltd, trading as Voy; and Bolt Healthcare for promoting prescription weight-loss drugs.

The MHRA has acted against more than 50 firms in 2025 and 2026 for suspected breaches of promoting prescription weight-loss drugs, but typically the promotions were amended and no sanctions were imposed.

Ruth Micallef, an eating disorder specialist based in Edinburgh, said she had turned down offers to do paid ads relating to weight-loss medications. She found it “disturbing” that she had been approached, given she was providing support for people with eating disorders.

She said the marketing of prescription diet drugs in tablet form was a significant concern. “It will make it even more accessible,” she said. “We’ve already had patients injecting this stuff for a long time, often from the wrong places and the wrong people.”

Nic, a 54-year-old consumer advocate in Buckinghamshire, who takes the injectable weight-loss drug Mounjaro and asked for his surname not to be used, said he was concerned that some weight-loss promotions suggested prescription diet pills were a “quick-fix miracle cure”.

The tablets are currently only available on private prescription, with a likely commitment of a year or longer. "They never tell you how much it's going to cost in the long term," he said. "We shouldn't be going into debt over our health."

Piotr Ozieranski, a reader at the Department of Social and Policy Sciences at University of Bath, has previously complained with research colleagues to the ASA and MHRA about the marketing practices of online pharmacies.

"There has been a consistent breaching of the regulations. It's shocking it's still happening. This is a huge market and the financial incentives for some of these companies are just too hard to resist," he claimed.

Superdrug said promotions were regularly reviewed for its Online Doctor service to ensure they complied with regulation. The firm said: "Weight-loss services can bring real health benefits to patients. We recognise the concerns about marketing and welcome clear regulation."

Dr Earim Chaudry, chief medical officer at Voy, said patient decisions were clinician-led and promotions were developed to comply with advertising standards. The ad on London buses was subject to the appropriate Transport for London advertising approval process, according to company sources.

Asda said it regularly reviewed its communications. It said its online doctor service is operated by a contracted third party and any treatment is only prescribed following clinical assessment. Any promotions relate to the patient consultation, said an Asda spokesperson.

A Groupon spokesperson said a promotion for £90 off the Wegovy pill had since been removed. Bolt and pharmacyonline.co.uk did not respond to a request for comment

A PayPal spokesperson said buy now, pay later was a form of credit and customers should think about how they will afford repayments. The spokesperson said the credit was interest free, regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and could provide an affordable way to manage the cost of purchases, including higher-value items, such as essential medicines.

The ASA said breaches of code concerning prescription drugs were a priority area, with extensive enforcement. "There is significant innovation in the digital healthcare sector," said a spokesperson. "However, that does not excuse advertisers putting commercial incentives over public safety." It said the majority of companies complied with advertising standards.

Julian Beach, executive director of healthcare, quality and access at the MHRA, said it took the issue of medicines advertising “extremely seriously”. He said: “Where advertisers breach the regulations, we will not hesitate to use the full range of available options to protect the public.”

ON OTHER PAGES

The godfather of weight-loss drugs: 'I know there can be bad outcomes'

Page 16

Burnham's shock statement on Europe stuns his colleagues in Westminster

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Burnham's shock statement on Europe stuns his colleagues in Westminster

The PM's assertion that ‘we could go all the way’ had Whitehall reeling as it emerged all but the closest advisers were in the dark about his bold first step towards rejoining the EU. Rachel Sylvester reports

When Andy Burnham told the Labour conference “Brexit has done more harm than good” and that all options were on the table for the UK’s long-term relationship with the EU, the civil servants who have been beavering away on Europe policy for months were stunned. “Nobody was expecting this,” one Whitehall source said. “Officials were totally reeling. It was a million miles away from what they have been working on.

"It's exciting to have more ambition, but they also need to work out what to do next. It's a new world they're in."

There was no cabinet discussion in advance about a policy shift that has transformed the political landscape. The prime minister wrote the speech himself, and was determined to include a significant announcement on Europe. He then doubled down on the pro-European message in subsequent interviews, confirming that the UK could “go all the way” and rejoin the EU. This was “coming from Burnham himself”, according to a Foreign Office insider.

Those around the Labour leader are still trying to think through the consequences. “It could be very significant,” one cabinet minister said. “We need clarity about our long-term relationship with Europe. It’s been a bit crablike, and things have changed since 2016 because of the Ukraine war and Donald Trump. But there are a lot of unanswered questions. I don’t really know what the end destination point is.” Another argued that, in an increasingly unstable world, Britain needs to be “part of a club” for the sake of the economy, as well as national security.

It was only in May that Burnham promised during the Makerfield byelection campaign not to “rerun” the Brexit arguments, and said he was not proposing that the UK considers rejoining the EU. But the prime minister’s personal view has long been that Britain should aim to go back into the bloc at some point, and public opinion is shifting. When Burnham met Trump at the UN general assembly in New York last month, the US president asked him whether support for Brexit was “still 50-50”. The prime minister replied: “It’s actually changing.”

A recent YouGov poll that is circulating in Downing Street found 59% of Britons now support rejoining the EU, almost double the 32% who oppose it. Among Labour voters, the number in favour is 85%, while for Liberal Democrats it is 76%, and among Greens, it is 83%. The issue that drove apart the Labour coalition could now reunite progressive voters. Even in Makerfield, which voted Leave in 2016, the mood has changed. During the byelection, Burnham was shown private polling that suggested the constituency had flipped and would now support Remain.

The economic arguments are compelling for a Labour leader who urgently needs to generate resources to fund his priorities. The prime minister has said he wants to add “percentage points” to growth by getting closer to the EU but this will never be delivered within the parameters of Keir Starmer’s “red lines” for negotiations. These rule out a return to the single market, customs union or free movement of people.

To make matters worse, Burnham has been warned in recent weeks that the UK looks increasingly likely to be excluded from the EU's Made in Europe policy, which aims to protect European companies from state-subsidised competition from China. This would have a devastating impact on the British car industry, and more than wipe out any economic gains from the incremental “reset” in relations between the UK and the EU that is now under way.

Mark Leonard, director of the European Council on Foreign Relations, says a new approach is essential to break through the economic “glass ceiling”. He thinks more ambition is also crucial to engage European heads of state. “What was on the agenda in the Starmer era was so modest that it doesn’t really deliver much for the EU. Friedrich

Merz in Germany or Pedro Sánchez in Spain or Giorgia Meloni in Italy have got a lot on their plate at the moment, so they weren't very interested," he said.

“You’ve had the European Commission on autopilot negotiating at snail’s pace, then the French putting more and more barriers in the way of the UK. I think what Burnham’s done has completely changed the dynamics around this, so people are sitting up and paying attention in a way that they really weren’t before.”

Last week the French president, Emmanuel Macron, said Britain returning to the EU would be “excellent news” and Spanish prime minister Sánchez declared that the UK would be welcomed “with open arms”. Susanne Baumann, the German ambassador to the UK, confirmed Berlin would be a “partner” for as ambitious a new relationship as possible.

One cabinet minister suggests that the associate membership offered to Canada by the EU “opens up” the idea of an outer circle that Britain could join. Stella Creasy, the Labour MP for Walthamstow and chair of the Labour Movement for Europe, said a “salvage operation” is required. “We walked into the negotiation saying: ‘No to 'Most European capitals are delighted to have a British prime minister who has a clear vision'

Peter Ricketts, former Foreign Office head

this, no to that, no to everything.' Who negotiates like that, apart from a toddler? [The Canadian PM] Mark Carney has walked in and said: 'What do we share in common?'

"He is immediately getting a much more expansive and productive response. You can see a pathway whereby Britain shows willingness to put everything on the table, have a serious conversation, and Europe comes up with a bespoke deal."

Burnham's top team is divided about whether Labour should go into the next election with a bold offer on Europe. Two-thirds of cabinet ministers, including the first secretary, Louise Haigh, the chancellor, John Healey, and the foreign secretary, Ed Miliband, represent seats that voted Leave in 2016. Last week, the business secretary, Jonathan Reynolds, warned Labour against rejoining the customs union and said Britain must not return to the “paralysis” of the Brexit years. But Wes Streeting, the defence secretary, has argued that leaving the EU had been a “catastrophic mistake” and the UK should “one day” rejoin.

Speaking at the Labour Movement for Europe rally in Liverpool, Miliband made clear where his instincts lie.

“Every experience I’ve had in the two months that I’ve been foreign secretary tells me our future lies in a deeper, stronger partnership with the EU,” he said. “From climate to the Middle East, to Sudan,

Students at an 'Our future, Our Choice' event in London in 2019 raise awareness of the desire for another EU referendum.

Leon Neal/

Getty Images

to AI, where have I turned? To our European partners."

Unlike his predecessors, the foreign secretary has refused to leave the Brexit negotiations to the Cabinet Office. Hamish Falconer, the minister for European relations, straddles the two departments. Stewart Wood, who worked alongside Miliband when they were both advising Gordon Brown, is now the Foreign Office minister in the Lords. He is described as being “critical” to the internal discussions on Europe, bringing intellectual heft and economic expertise to the debate. The prime minister’s chief of staff, James Purnell, is in favour of further integration. Will Straw, who plays the same role for the chancellor, ran the Remain campaign in 2016.

The unions have also been pressing the government to seek the deepest possible partnership with the EU. The TUC general secretary, Paul Nowak, said Brexit has been “disastrous” for workers and businesses, and negotiations should be “guided by the national interest, not arbitrary red lines”.

More than half of voters think Burnham is taking the right approach in considering all options, according to the latest Opinium poll for The Observer. Only 13% think Brexit has done more good than harm to the UK, and 46% believe it has done much more harm than good.

Former Foreign Office head Peter Ricketts said the “mood music is positive" before the delayed UK-EU summit, which is expected to take place on 20 November. "Most European capitals are delighted to have a British prime minister who has a clear vision on future relations with Europe," he said. "Their big grouse over the past few years has been that nobody ever had more than a very tactical, short-term view of the relationship with the EU. Here we have a politician who's coming out clearly with a strongly pro-Europe message that Brexit was a mistake, and that's very welcome."

But Ricketts thinks negotiations will not start in earnest until after the next general election. “Supposing we started and then there was a [Nigel] Farage government. The only way we’re going to get a major move forward is after an election which confirms another pro-Europe British government,” he said.

The former Labour leader Neil Kinnock believes Burnham was brought to this point by “realism and patriotism” in a world that has changed “seismically” in the past decade. “We have got to seek to join again because what we left isn’t there any more,” Kinnock said. “I’m working on trying to persuade everybody I know that should be the objective, so that the mandate is clear. I didn’t think it would happen in my lifetime. I’m 84 and I think that, by the time of my funeral, it’ll be much nearer. That’s the direction of travel.”

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The prime minister has pledged to prioritise Britain's social care. Getty Images

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No 10's ‘theory of growth’ is set for a cautious reality check on budget day

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No 10's ‘theory of growth’ is set for a cautious reality check on budget day

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COMMENTARY

Ben

Zaranko

Economics editor

A ndy Burnham has rightly received plaudits for facing up to issues that politicians have for too long shied away from.

Whether it's fixing the inequity of England's social care system, or removing the worst features of the state pension triple lock, he plans to tackle things that he could easily have ignored.

Or, at least, he said he'll tackle them in the next parliament, if he gets re-elected. In the meantime, the budget is just weeks away and the financial storm clouds are gathering.

The yield on 30-year UK government bonds – what investors demand to lend to the UK government – nudged above 6% this week for the first time since 1998. That’s an uncomfortable milestone, comparable to the borrowing costs that the Italian government faced during the height of the Eurozone crisis. This week’s market movements were driven by global shifts, rather than UK-specific factors, but are no less painful for that.

Against that backdrop, the general expectation is for a steady-as-she-goes budget that avoids spooking the markets, and delays the biggest decisions – including how to pay for the government's defence promises – until next year, at the earliest.

That doesn't mean the budget will be devoid of content. We can expect new announcements on devolution, which sits at the heart of what Burnham this week called his “theory of growth”. The theory, such as it is, is that public control of the essentials and the devolution of power out of Whitehall will optimise conditions for businesses to grow.

During her time as chancellor, Rachel Reeves set in train plans to allow regional mayors to keep a share of tax revenues raised in their area, rather than be funded by grants from central government. John Healey will now confirm the details in the budget.

This does have the potential to be a genuinely growth-friendly policy. If mayors' funding is more closely linked to the economic performance of their area, they've got a financial incentive to facilitate economic growth. And, if a mayor thinks a local investment project (such as a railway extension, or a tram network) would boost local growth and tax revenues, they can borrow against those revenues to help finance the investment without first having to convince Treasury officials that it's a good idea.

Areas that under-perform will

The expectation is for a steady-as-she-goes budget that avoids spooking the markets

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The expectation is for a steady-as-she-goes budget that avoids spooking the markets

lose out financially, but that's sort of the point: it's the flip-side of allowing mayors to share in the benefits when their local economy is booming. Still, that brings risks. The Institute for Fiscal Studies warned on Friday that without careful design, tax devolution could widen regional inequalities, rather than narrow them. Instead of growth in every postcode, we could get growing postcode lotteries.

The prospect of a budget narrowly focused on devolution and targeting cost of living measures is also causing consternation among some Labour figures. The Guardian reported on Friday that government insiders are worried about a lack of clarity from the new chancellor and an “underpowered” budget process.

More generally, Burnham's “theory of growth” is a bit thin. It was the flimsiest element of what was otherwise a strong and well-argued speech to Labour party conference. Healey was right to tell delegates this week that “without growth, there is no social democracy”. But his government’s plan for how we get it needs a bit more work.

Karl Mathiesen

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Karl Mathiesen

A British-Iranian national who was arrested in Westminster in relation to suspicious events that took place at RAF Fairford airbase has been released on bail, counter-terrorism police said yesterday.

The decision to bail five other suspects arrested last weekend near the Gloucestershire base, all UK nationals, raised eyebrows in the White House. But two of the UK's most senior barristers said police had acted appropriately despite political pressure.

“It’s good that the police are sufficiently independent that they ignore what President Trump says from afar,” said Jonathan Hall, the government’s independent reviewer of terrorism legislation.

After the five men were released by police last Monday, Donald Trump, his secretary of state Marco Rubio and Reform leader Nigel Farage all questioned the decision. Denying Iran's involvement, the Iranian foreign minister, Abbas Araghchi, wrote on X: "Releasing individuals who are allegedly state-sponsored foreign terrorists speaks for itself."

But Hall and Max Hill, who served as director of public prosecutions for England and Wales from 2018-2023, said the police had bought themselves time to pursue a complex investigation, which prime minister Andy Burnham said last Wednesday would probably lead back to Iran.

The suspects are believed to have driven vans carrying fuel to the perimeter of the airbase, which the US is using for bombing operations in Iran, early last Sunday. After apprehending them, police had 24 hours to charge them under the Police and Criminal Evidence Act (Pace) or apply for a court extension. Otherwise they could arrest them as potential terrorists or agents of a foreign state. Under counter terrorism laws, that extends to 14 days. But police can stop that clock ticking by releasing suspects under bail conditions, if they believe they are not a safety or flight risk.

“It’s better to hold sufficient time on that custody clock to allow you to really bottom out your investigation,” former DPP Hill said. “All of their options are open.”

Last Thursday Iran summoned Britain's ambassador to complain about Burnham's allegation.

ADVANCED THREAT PROTECTION, ONLY FROM THE UK'S BEST BROADBAND

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ADVANCED THREAT PROTECTION, ONLY FROM THE UK'S BEST BROADBAND

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Cap lifetime social care costs or elderly risk ruin, PM is told

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Cap lifetime social care costs or elderly risk ruin, PM is told

Rachel Sylvester

Political editor

Andy Burnham is being urged to introduce a lifetime cap on social care costs to ensure that those living with dementia do not face ruinous bills.

Louise Casey, the crossbench peer leading an independent commission on adult social care in England, is understood to have concluded that imposing a limit on the total paid by individuals who need residential care is the only way to stop people with long-term conditions such as Alzheimer's losing all their savings or having to sell their home.

Her recommendation has not been finalised but two sources said the commission is concerned about the risk of “catastrophic costs” for vulnerable elderly people if there is no cap. This could be a financial limit or a maximum period that self-funders would have to pay for their own care.

The proposal would increase the cost of social care reform, raising fresh questions about how it would be funded. A planned lifetime cap of £86,000 was scrapped in 2024 by then chancellor Rachel Reeves. As Labour health secretary, Burnham supported a two-year time limit on residential care costs, meaning the state would fund anyone who was in a home for longer than that.

In his Labour conference speech, the prime minister promised to create a National Care Service, providing free personal care for older people, based on need rather than ability to pay. He described his pledge as “a landmark policy as significant as the creation of the NHS” and announced that the pension triple lock would be adjusted to help fund the reform.

In a post on X last week, he said the social care system was “broken”. “Shamefully, millions of older people have unmet care needs,” he said. “Far too many see everything they have worked for – their home, pension and savings – wiped out by care bills.”

Downing Street said Burnham wanted to create a system similar to the one in Scotland, where all older people are eligible for free personal care at home. However, critics say the Scottish system still leaves many families with crushing debt. Those who go into residential care and do not qualify for means-tested support receive only £260 a week. A care home place typically costs £1,500 a week, meaning expenses quickly accumulate and some people end up having to sell their home to plug the gap.

Officials at the Department of Health and Social Care warn that introducing free personal care without also introducing a cap on costs would not fix one of the main problems identified by the prime minister.

A report from the King's Fund, to be published next week, will propose universal access to social care, partly funded by the taxpayer and with a cap on costs for individuals. Simon Bottery, a senior fellow for social care at the thinktank, said: "It's one of the great injustices of the social care system that some people end up having to spend hundreds of thousands of pounds on their individual care costs. You have to pool the risk."

About 75% of adults over 65 are expected to need care in later life, with one in seven facing costs of more than £100,000. Today people in England with assets of more than £23,250 are responsible for funding their care. Burnham's proposal would provide support for needs such as eating and bathing but families would still pay the bulk of care home costs.

Somebody with Alzheimer's who is in a home for several years could still end up losing everything. If there were a cap, people would pay for residential care up to the limit and then the state would take over the costs, based on the rate paid by local authorities for those who are funded.

The cost of a cap would depend on the level at which it was set. The budget for the £86,000 lifetime cap, which has already been legislated for, would rise to about £4bn a year by 2035-36. The Health Foundation estimates that Scottish-style free personal care would cost £7.5bn a year in England by the same date. A system of social care that covers all of people's care home costs would cost about £18.5bn a year by 2035-36, according to the thinktank.

Celebrity Traitors bosses watched Grant's gaffe ‘with hands over our faces’

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Celebrity Traitors bosses watched Grant's gaffe ‘with hands over our faces’

The actor's opening-episode faux pas may cost him dear at the round table, but it has sent series ratings sky-high

Stephen Armstrong

The gobsmacking revelation at the centre of the new series of The Celebrity Traitors hasn't just come as a surprise to its faithful viewers, it caused the creators of the BBC hit series to reel in horror, according to one of its makers.

“We sat in the control room, watching from a distance, with hands over our faces, [thinking] ‘What is going to happen?’” said Mike Cotton, an executive producer.

"There are no producers in the castle talking to contestants or trying to shape the show. So we don't really have any control over anything, except in the way we plan the season and the set pieces. And you couldn't have planned for that."

Cotton is referring to the extraordinary moment Richard E Grant revealed to his competitors that he was a Traitor, in the opening episode, screened last Thursday. It's the first time in the show's history that a contestant has threatened to upend the game by showing their hand. The 69-year-old actor has since attempted to row back, citing nerves and a mere desire to be a Traitor. This week viewers will learn whether his castlemates believe him.

Essentially an elaborate game of Wink Murder, the show pits the killer Traitors, who must keep their identities a secret, against 18 Faithfuls, who must guess the Traitors' identities and banish them from the Scottish castle where the game is set. Grant's outburst was followed by a dramatic finale to the first episode in which the comedian James Acaster was set against the broadcaster Amol Rajan: one was to be recruited to treachery, the other mur-

Richard E Grant, above, has boosted ratings for the show, hosted by Claudia Winkleman. Euan Cherry/BBC, Studio Lambert

dered. In the end, Rajan became the first victim in Friday's episode. "I should have stayed shtum and flown under the radar," he said. "But it's all in the edit. Almost everyone quizzed Richard, but in the episode they only showed me grilling him. It's gutting. I would have loved being a Traitor."

Rajan, 43, went on to say he had especially enjoyed the challenge, as well as his proximity to fellow contestant Jerry Hall, 70. "If my 21-year-old self was told that I was going to be stood in a wetsuit, with new walking boots, on a beach in front of a burning shipwreck, next to Jerry Hall, telling me she was about to wield a crowbar and that she was an expert in it, I'd have said your life has turned out pretty damn well," he said.

In March Studio Lambert, which produces the UK and US versions, signed a deal to keep the franchise of the original Dutch format on BBC1 until 2030 at the very least. In November last year, a report by Visit Scotland and Screen Scotland credited the programme with generating roughly £22m for the Scottish economy since filming began in 2022.

The overnight ratings of the first two episodes of the latest series of The Celebrity Traitors have exceeded those of the first episodes of the inaugural series and generated more than 600 memes in two days – including Amol Rajan and James Acaster cast as Del Boy and Rodney from Only Fools and Horses.

The first episode in the first celebrity series, broadcast in 2025, drew an overnight average audience of 6.1 million, and episode two averaged 6.5 million viewers. Both went on to secure 15 million viewers for their 28-day viewing figures – the official ratings measure.

By the same scale, episodes one and two of the second series are already pulling in roughly 3 million more viewers than the first.

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WRITE your will SO SHE CAN WRITE her future

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"Leaving a legacy gift, I feel I'm leaving a little mark, a contribution to the world. That gives meaning to my life and makes me happy."

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‘They’re clear they’re innocent and they’re going to prove it’

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‘They’re clear they’re innocent and they’re going to prove it’

Andy Burnham's former deputy mayor stands by Manchester City and criticises the Premier League investigation into the football club's finances, after it was found guilty of numerous breaches, write Catherine Neilan and Jon Ungoed-Thomas

The architect of Manchesterism and former deputy mayor of Greater Manchester under Andy Burnham has launched a strong criticism of the Premier League's investigation into Manchester City football club's finances.

Richard Leese, now the honorary president of Manchester City, has stood by its owners.

“They are quite clear they are innocent and that they are going to prove it,” he said. “If I have a choice of believing the Premier League or Man City football club, I wouldn’t choose the Premier League.”

Last Tuesday, the league confirmed the club had been found guilty of all charges relating to breaches of financial regulations between the 2009-10 and 2017-18 seasons, with an independent commission finding that it had arranged “sham contracts” as well as “relying on sham agreements to artificially inflate the club’s revenues and reduce its costs”.

The club maintains its innocence and has lodged an appeal.

Manchester City was bought in 2008 by Abu Dhabi United Group, a private investment company owned by Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al

Nahyan, the brother of the UAE president. Sheikh Mansour's group of companies has since invested in a £1bn regeneration project in Manchester for the planned development of 6,000 homes; the Co-op Live arena next to the Manchester City stadium; and the Medlock Square entertainment district.

“From a Manchester point of view, the involvement of Abu Dhabi United Group... has been entirely positive. The city is a lot better place for the work they have done,” said Leese.

The Observer has established that Abu Dhabi held talks with a British minister following initial reports of the verdict, as the government insisted that the Premier League's investigation into the club's finances was “independent”.

Stephen Doughty, a foreign office minister with responsibility for the Middle East, was called by UAE officials last week. He also joined the UAE ambassador Mansoor Abdullah Khalfan on a panel at Labour's party conference last Monday. Although it is thought that Manchester City was not raised during the meeting itself, Abu Dhabi has made clear its displeasure with the ruling. There was also a series of phone calls between senior diplomats on both sides that touched on business and security concerns.

An FCDO spokesperson said: “As you’d expect, UK government ministers, including Stephen Doughty... regularly engage with the UAE on a range of issues in our mutual interest.”

Senior figures within the regime have been hoping to speak directly to Burnham, in what one source described as a “top to top” call between him and the Emirati royal and vice-president of the United Arab Emirates, Sheikh Mansour. “They do things very much on personal relationships,” the source added.

Over the past five years, the UAE has poured more than £30bn into the UK, overseen by its state-owned sovereign fund, Mubadala.

'If I have a choice of believing the Premier League or Man City, I wouldn't choose the Premier League' Richard Leese

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'If I have a choice of believing the Premier League or Man City, I wouldn't choose the Premier League' Richard Leese

In 2021, when Boris Johnson was prime minister, an expanded UAE-UK Sovereign Investment Partnership was signed in Downing Street, through which UAE officials agreed to provide significant investment in technology, infrastructure, energy transition and life sciences.

A wave of new investments in Britain by the UAE followed, including a stake in a £11bn North Sea windfarm announced by Rishi Sunak in December 2023; education projects, including provision of specialist school places; financial services; and broadband infrastructure.

Documents obtained by the Telegraph have shown how Labour ministers had courted the UAE for new investment in a high-tech corridor between Cambridge and Oxford. A letter sent in February invited partners of Manchester City chairman Khaldoon Al Mubarak, who is also chief executive of UAE fund Mubadala, to visit the corridor project.

Major UAE-owned firms have also backed infrastructure projects in the UK and supported thousands of jobs. Dubai-owned DP World is investing £1bn to increase capacity of its London Gateway container port in Essex. Abu Dhabi property firm Aldar Properties has significant investments in London, and Diafa this year bought a controlling stake in the Ivy restaurant empire. Trade in goods and services between the UK and UAE is worth about £25bn a year.

When asked about the Premier League's investigation, Burnham, mayor of Greater Manchester between 2017 and June 2026, said he was not

The Mancini contract that could deepen Manchester City's crisis

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The Mancini contract that could deepen Manchester City's crisis

Matthew Bishop

"It's not a problem that concerns me," said Roberto Mancini. The manager of Italy's national team was responding to the guilty verdict on 114 of 115 charges against Manchester City, the club he used to coach. His unusual double contract while at the club has become a focus of debate about whether City's appeal might succeed.

Unless it can overturn the decision of the independent commission that heard the charges of breaking the Premier League's financial fair play rules, the club faces a potential points deduction, relegation or expulsion from the league and a fine. If authorities outside football get involved, there could be lawsuits from other clubs and a possible criminal prosecution.

The commission found City paid one individual through agreements that were a “sham”. A report by Tax Policy Associates, a thinktank, concluded the individual was likely to be Mancini, and “the evidence points to £12m in unpaid UK tax”. With interest and penalties, the bill could reach£24m, followed by a criminal investigation.

When Mancini became City's gaffer in 2009, he got two contracts. The first, with the club, gave him a basic salary of £1.45m per season after tax. The second, with Al Jazira Sports and Cultural Club, was a consulting agreement paying Mancini's company £1.75m a year, with no tax deducted. Both clubs are owned by

After eight years of investment in the city centre, Beetham Tower is surrounded by skyscrapers.

After investment, in 2026

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After investment, in 2026

getting “directly involved in the process”. He was criticised for some of his initial comments about the verdict, having said: “It’s frustrating when people rush to judgment and proclaim people guilty”.

Last Wednesday he told the BBC: "I would be really concerned to lose them [City's owners]. They've been such a huge partner in the building of modern Manchester."

No 10 has since issued a new statement: “The initial judgment is serious and there can’t be any suggestion that anyone is above the rules”, and it stressed the “independent process”.

“Wherever wrongdoing is established, those responsible should face the appropriate consequences,” a spokesperson said.

But one Labour MP called Burnham's initial comments “really silly” and said that “he needs to recognise he’s no longer the mayor of Manchester”. Another said: “Andy needs to be more diplomatic now than he was a few years ago.”

Christopher Davidson, author of Abu Dhabi: Oil and Beyond, said the Man City verdict was “uncharted territory” because it involved a highly personalised deal, involving Sheikh Mansour and Al Mubarak.

Davidson said sources he had spoken with suggested there would probably be an “unwinding” from the club if the verdict stood and once the appeal process had been exhausted. “This clearly is a reputational blow,” he said. “Any soft power benefits are now a net negative and the

Roberto Mancini, the former City manager, says he is not concerned by claims about his finances.

Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan. Leaked documents show that in 2011, the first payment on the consulting contract was made from a Manchester City account. This suggests the two contracts were in reality one, and were payment for Mancini to manage City. If so, the club understated his pay in its accounts and possibly failed to hand over the pay-as-you-earn income tax and national insurance due on it: about £12m on £8.9m of payments over four seasons. When TPA asked the club if the tax had been paid, it received no reply.

costs will continue the longer they stick around."

He said the associated investments in Manchester may also be affected, but other UK investments were likely to be more secure.

Simon Penney, a former trade commissioner for the Middle East, said ownership of the football club had for years helped boost the international image of the UAE. “If you buy a club that has not experienced much success, and you take them to eight [Premier League] championships, it’s an immense source of pride,” he said. “The flipside is the reputational damage that is now being caused. The leadership of the UAE are very protective of the reputation of the country and they will feel this quite acutely.”

Penney considered it unlikely that any existing investments in the UK would be affected by the controversy, but said that future investments could potentially be reviewed. "There may be a period of things slowing down," he said. "The underlying investment logic will remain."

One backbencher suggested the situation was a wake-up call following what they considered to be “a decades-long sportswashing exercise”.

They said: “This has been a long time coming. [Manchester] City under Sheikh Mansour have always pushed the envelope of what’s permitted. Now it looks like time has caught up with them.”

Pressure is growing for an investigation by the Financial Reporting Council (FRC). Liam Byrne, Labour MP for Birmingham Hodge Hill and Solihull North, has sent a letter to the independent financial regulator requesting a new investigation into City's “alleged misstatements”. Byrne, chair of the Commons business, innovation, science and trade committee, asked the FRC to examine the case..

Mancini reportedly insists that if the double contract is a problem, it is City's. On that, the taxman may agree.

The PM is a true football fan. It's why he scored an own goal

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The PM is a true football fan. It's why he scored an own goal

ANALYSIS

Rory Smith

Football correspondent

ndy Burnham and Keir Starmer count as genuine, sincere and avid football fans. The prime minister has regularly been

seen running in a mid-80s Everton shirt, while Starmer has, for years, held a season ticket at Arsenal.

What distinguishes Burnham, though, is that his fandom plays as inherently authentic to a demographic that is inclined towards cynicism on these things: David Cameron once confused Aston Villa, the team he claims to follow, with West Ham.

Starmer, for reasons that are not entirely clear, seemed to be placed in much the same category. But football should be one of Burnham's strengths, a core tenet of his appeal to a vast swathe of the electorate and terra firma politically. And yet, twice in a couple of weeks, he has managed to misread it spectacularly.

First, he said he would be willing to countenance lifting the ban on drinking alcohol in view of the pitch at games, a rule Burnham has long regarded as outdated.

– being found guilty of more than 100 counts of breaching the Premier League’s financial regulations.

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Except most fans now think adults are capable of going 45 minutes without a pint and do not want to be continually disturbed by people going to get a drink, or going to get rid of one. Burnham duly backed down.

The prime minister's first response was to suggest that he would be “really concerned” to lose City’s owners, while thanking them for investment they had made into both the club and Manchester as a whole. He also said he did not wish to “leap to one side” on the issue.

Those remarks were later clarified to state that nobody could be “above the rules” if wrongdoing were proven, before reminding everyone that wrongdoing had already been proven, albeit pending an appeal. By that stage, of course, both the Tories and Lib Dems had expressed surprise at Burnham’s apparent defence of a team found guilty of industrial-scale cheating.

More serious, last week, were his attempts to pick his way around the issue of Manchester City – a club owned by a group with connections to the ruling family of Abu Dhabi

There are two lessons here. One is that football is complex and capricious territory for any politician, because most issues are interpreted through a tribal lens. The other is that fandom is not always a strength.

Rory Smith's Football Observer

Burnham's initial response was rooted in his experiences as an Evertonian. His team, after all, was found guilty of breaching financial rules a couple of years ago, in a much more minor way.

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He allowed that to inform his immediate reaction to the City verdict. “I fought for Everton in that situation. I still hold the view very firmly that they weren’t fairly treated in that process,” he said. This is an orthodox Evertonian belief; and Burnham is a real fan. It is just that tribal logic, however sincere, probably should not shape a worldview.

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HENRY GRAY HAS WORKED FORMSF IN NUMEROUS CRISES AROUND THE WORLD.

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HENRY GRAY HAS WORKED FORMSF IN NUMEROUS CRISES AROUND THE WORLD.

"I've worked for MSF on and off for twenty years, but I still remember the first project I worked on. We were setting up a hospital in the middle of a forest in the Democratic Republic of Congo. There had been a lot of fighting in this area, and although the conflict had died down, the legacy of war was still very visible. About 125,000 people lived in the immediate area, but there were no services, and not even basic medical care was available. Women couldn't get caesareans if they needed them; there were no medicines, no vaccinations, and no treatment for diseases. It was a desperate situation, and that's when MSF sent us to get an emergency hospital up and running.

From the start, our goal was to provide medical care and save lives. But we knew that for this work to continue and to have lasting impact, we couldn't just provide medical care. We needed to bring the community on board; we needed to hire local staff and train local people to do the jobs that we were doing. So that's what we did.

It was fantastic to see the immediate impact of that lifesaving work. But what really surprised me was seeing how the hospital transformed the entire area. I still remember the day we switched on the generators that would power the lights in and around the hospital. Suddenly, schoolchildren started turning up to sit under the lights and do their homework. Over the weeks, businesses sprang up, and the local economy grew.

Over the years I've worked in war zones, in Ebola outbreaks and in natural disasters, and I've seen over and over again how the simple actions we take as MSF can have massive and positive knock-on effects for people, for their families and their communities.

But none of those simple acts happens without your support. MSF doesn't take money from governments. We're privately funded by people just like you. By leaving a gift in your will to MSF, you can know that your gift will not only save lives, but will change lives now and into the future. Thank you."

Above 4-year-old Franyeli receives medical care at MSF's mobile clinic in Puerto Alegre, Colombia. Photo: ©Natalia Romero Peñuela/MSF

"We will always be committed to providing care to those who need it. But that legacy is not ours alone."

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Forever without borders – thanks to your support

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Forever without borders – thanks to your support

For more than 50 years, we've brought medical care to people who urgently need it, no matter where they are. We've performed surgery on floors, in corridors and by the light of head torches. We've helped mothers deliver babies in warzones and resuscitated people caught up in explosions.

Because we don't take any government funding, it is only the generosity of people like you that helps keep us going. This means we remain independent, impartial and neutral, and can deliver care to anyone who needs it.

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RESPECTING YOU AND YOUR PERSONAL DATA

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RESPECTING YOU AND YOUR PERSONAL DATA

Your support is vital to our work and we would like to keep you informed with first-hand accounts from our staff and patients about the lifesaving impact your support is having, from combatting epidemics to providing emergency surgery.

We won't allow other organisations to have access to your personal data for marketing purposes and we won't bombard you with appeals.

By supporting MSF, you will receive our magazine Dispatches, event invitations and occasional emergency appeals with requests for donations by post. You can change how you hear from MSF UK by emailing uk.fundraising@london.msf.org or calling 020 7404 6600. Visit our privacy notice for more: msf.org.uk/privacy.

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Botched Tennessee execution exposes death row's reliance on weak, fake or expired drugs

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Botched Tennessee execution exposes death row's reliance on weak, fake or expired drugs

Unable to access lethal sedatives from pharma companies, US jails use what they can – and inmates such as Christa Pike pay the price.

Isabel Coles reports

The botched execution of a woman in a Tennessee prison last week is drawing attention to the murky supply chains used to procure the drug used in lethal injections in the US.

Lawyers for Christa Pike say she is now unconscious, intubated and on a ventilator after being injected on Wednesday with two doses of pentobarbital – a sedative also used in animal euthanasia and assisted suicide.

But pharmaceutical companies have imposed strict controls to prevent pentobarbital and other drugs being sold for use in executions. Instead, US state correction agencies have sourced the drug from abroad or from under-regulated pharmacies.

“We don’t know whether the drugs that were injected into Christa Pike’s veins were expired,” said Blaire Andres, who leads US death penalty case work for the nonprofit Reprieve. “We don’t know anything about where the products originated from.”

Sentenced to death two decades ago for the murder of 19-year-old Colleen Slemmer, Pike, now 50, is the only prisoner in the era of the modern death penalty to survive the administration of lethal injection drugs.

The scandal prompted Tennessee's head of prisons to resign yesterday. Frank Strada, commissioner for the Department of Correction, said he was stepping down "in the best interests" of the state and said the investigation into Pike's execution was "entirely appropriate and necessary".

Pentobarbital is so hard for states to come by that some have brought back execution by firing squad or considered nitrogen suffocation.

As it became harder to source the drug abroad, many turned to compounding pharmacies that make drugs for individual patients.

“It is creating a system where quality is now certainly at risk,” said Prashant Yarav, a globally recognised expert in healthcare supply chains. “It could have lower potency, it could have less active ingredients than what it’s supposed to have. It could be completely counterfeit and fake.”

Pike's lawyers have suggested the pentobarbital was degraded. Compounded medications fail quality and potency specifications at much higher rates than drugs approved by the Food and Drug Administration.

The drug should be kept at a controlled temperature and may have been improperly stored, said Yarav. "Somebody could have kept it in the trunk of their car for hours, exposed to direct sunlight... Or it could have just been past its expiration date."

Death row defence attorneys raised concerns last year that Tennessee might be using expired drugs, which they said would be less potent and could lead to suffering. At the time, the state refused to disclose the expiration date of its pentobarbital.

"With animal euthanasia you have veterinarians that are trained to do this. In the execution context we don't have the same trained people," said Corinna Barrett Lain, author of Secrets of the Killing State: the Untold Story of Lethal Injection.

Inability to insert an IV line is among the most common reasons for botched lethal injections, according to the Death Penalty Information Center (DPI). Pike's remarks that she felt a burning sensation in her arm suggest the drug may have been injected into tissue instead of a vein.

Tennessee's governor Bill Lee has ordered an independent review of the state's lethal injection protocols and halted all executions this year.

Executions using lethal injection are the most likely to go wrong, experts say. Data published by the DPI showed that 7% of executions using lethal injection in the US were botched between 1890 and 2010, compared with an overall rate of 3.2% during the same period.

"It only does one thing well: it hides the violence of what state killing is," said Lain. "With the firing squad we have to see blood, and with the electric chair you have to smell... burning flesh, and with the gas chamber people are retching and trying to knock themselves out. With lethal injection you get to tell yourself that these people are just falling into forever sleep."

The gruesome spectacle of Pike's killing may begin to change that.

Christa Pike survived two lethal injections of pentobarbital. Ambulances at the Tennessee prison, above, last Wednesday.

Tennessee Department of Correction/Zuma Press, Avalon

El Niño is already breaking records – weeks before it hits

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El Niño is already breaking records – weeks before it hits

Jeevan Vasagar

Climate editor

Sea surface temperatures in the Pacific reached new highs last week, indicating the growing strength of the El Niño weather phenomenon as its first impacts are felt worldwide.

Temperatures rose to 3.23C above average, according to preliminary data gathered from Niño 3.4, a region of the equatorial Pacific halfway between South America and Australia that scientists use to classify the strength of an El Niño event.

El Niño is a natural climate event that releases stored heat from the ocean into the atmosphere, dispatching drought and storms around the world. That temperature records are being broken several weeks before the phenomenon is due to reach peak intensity in the northern hemisphere winter has strengthened fears it will be unusually strong.

Andrew Coburn, co-founder of Risilience, a climate risk consultancy, said: "We expect El Niño to last longer now, into February, and then start dropping off between April and June.

That will eat into the planting season next year and that's one of the key factors for our forecasts – the food price inflation that we are worried about. It will be a stressful period, with the risk of power shortages and food price rises."

The initial impacts are already being felt. India's monsoon is the weakest it has been for more than a decade, threatening the rice harvest and hydropower generation. The fall-out will not be limited to the country's farmers but ripple through the entire economy as consumption drops.

Meanwhile, California has declared a state of emergency, bracing for severe winter storms blowing in from an unusually warm Pacific. A giant underwater band of warm water known as a “Kelvin wave” is heading for the state's coastline, where it is expected to elevate sea levels by up to 30cm for months, amplifying the risk of floods from destructive storms.

Other regions such as southern Africa will face an increased risk of drought as El Niño strengthens.

Abundant harvests of wheat and rice in 2025 and 2026 provide some buffer for food supplies, but many countries rely on “just in time” supply chains to keep shelves full.

In China, which holds the world's biggest stockpiles of wheat according to a US government estimate, officials reassured the public that food reserves are well stocked. Egypt, Morocco and Algeria have begun amassing reserves of grain anticipating an El Niño-related supply crunch.

Most European countries operate on slim margins. Among the exceptions are Finland, which keeps a nine-month reserve of grain, and Sweden, which advises citizens to be able to manage for a week without power, water or buying groceries. Its government began stockpiling food, seeds and artificial fertiliser last year.

Aside from food, the choking of fuel supplies from the Middle East means Europe is heading into winter with depleted energy reserves, with gas storage at 71% compared with the seasonal average of 87%.

For the UK, El Niño raises the chances of heavy rainfall and storms until December, followed by a cold snap in early 2027, which may lead to a surge in energy demand at a time when the gas supplies are expected to remain tight.

Dr Raymond Pederson at his home in Vancouver.

Jimmy Jeong/

The Observer

From the intestines, GIP and GLP-1s travel to organs across the body

The godfather of weight loss drugs: 'I know there can be bad outcomes'

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The godfather of weight loss drugs: 'I know there can be bad outcomes'

In his first interview, the Canadian scientist Ray Pederson, who discovered the hormone that led to the development of GLP-1 drugs, tells James Tapper why he is concerned about the potential risks of their widespread use

Without Ray Pederson, weight-loss drugs might not exist. It's a legacy he's not entirely comfortable with.

"I do have real concerns," he says. The Canadian physiologist was a pioneer, the junior partner in the two-man team that discovered the first hormone to govern appetite: gastric inhibitory polypeptide, or GIP. Their discovery forms the foundation of the entire \$92bn weight-loss drugs market.

“Certainly for the morbidly obese, it’s been a godsend,” Pederson says. “But it’s being promoted as a way for everybody to lose weight, not just people who are obese, but if you want to lose a few pounds to fit in your bathing suit.”

Given Pederson's central role in a discovery that has transformed the world, it seems extraordinary that he has never given an interview before. Yet he and the other member of the team, his PhD supervisor John Brown, a hard-drinking, combative scientist from County Durham, have largely been forgotten. In fact, Pederson, now 84, feels they've been written out of history. After all, weight-loss drugs are known by the name of the second hormone

to be discovered: GLP-1, not GIP. The two substances cooperate in the body to regulate our appetites, but the story behind them is one of rivalries: between the two main drugs, Mounjaro and Wegovy; their active ingredients, tirzepatide and semaglutide; their makers, Eli Lilly and Novo Nordisk; and between the researchers behind the discoveries of GIP and GLP-1.

But first, why does Pederson think we are being too blasé about drugs that have already transformed millions of lives?

“[GLP-1] affects the central nervous system, affects a lot of different systems in the body, and no one is really clear what’s going to happen with long-term use,” he says. “I have enough experience with interfering with [the body’s self-regulating] homeostatic systems to know there can be bad outcomes over a long period of time.”

Such warnings are familiar to people taking these drugs. As well as the more common side-effects of nausea, constipation and fatigue, rare cases of pancreatitis and gallbladder disease have been reported. Researchers are looking into the possibility of a link to loss of vision. A potential public health disaster seems unlikely, though. The first drug in this class, exenatide,

was approved for use by diabetics in 2005, giving plenty of time to spot issues. Other side-effects may even be positive: there are signs that the drugs lower the risk of heart attacks, strokes, kidney disease, addiction and inflammation throughout the body, although some of this may be the result of reducing obesity.

Even so, Pederson worked on these hormones throughout his four-decade career. His expertise is based on examining them in people and animals in fine detail. He mentions experiments on “knockout mice” – animals bred to remove a gene that gives the body instructions to produce a particular hormone.

“Where a hormone is just removed from the body, there may be an initial effect, but usually – often – what happens is that another hormonal system will increase to compensate,” he says. “So when you’re adding a lot of GLP-1 to the system, it seems to me that there could be interference or adjustment in other biochemical systems that might have deleterious effects.”

For people with obesity or diabetes, the potential risk is justified, he feels. Not for others. When Pederson first met Brown at the University of British Columbia

In the pancreas, GIP and GLP-1 trigger a release of insulin, lowering blood sugar

GIP is produced by K cells in the upper small intestine, while GLP-1 comes from L cells in the lower small intestine

Graphic: Hannah Schuller

In the brain,

receptors are

stimulated by the

hormones, reducing

appetite and

increasing

fullness

GIP

travels to fat,

tissue and

bone cells

GLP-1 travels to the stomach, slowing the emptying of food, and the heart

in 1967, obesity was a minor issue compared with cancer, or polio and measles. Since then, diabetes and obesity have turned into epidemics and when pharmaceutical firms looked to science for solutions, they focused on GIP and GLP-1.

Weight-loss

drugs mimic these

effects, lasting much

longer in the body

than the original

hormone

At first, Novo Nordisk's Ozempic, a diabetes drug, and its weight-loss clone Wegovy, led the way. The pharma firm was such a powerhouse that economists had to separate its revenues from Denmark's GDP figures to avoid giving a misleading impression of the country's economy.

Wegovy mimics GLP-1, but has been eclipsed by Mounjaro, which mimics both GIP and GLP-1 and is more effective at

controlling appetite. It has transformed its maker, Eli Lilly, into a \$1tn pharmaceutical behemoth.

Pederson is not a rich man, although his retirement

islands has been comfortable – he restores vintage cars, trucks and motorcycles, proudly showing off pictures. He remains professor

emeritus at the University of British Columbia.

Why does Pederson think few people remember GIP? “Part of the reason GIP got downplayed somewhat was that John made a lot of enemies,” Pederson says. “He just rubbed people the wrong way.”

Pederson liked Brown from the moment they met. Pederson was 27, and starting a master's degree after teaching high school biology. Brown was 35, a coalminer's son from Crook in County Durham, with a PhD in gastrointestinal physiology from Newcastle University.

“He was an aggressive guy, and I liked him right from the start,” Pederson says. “The prevailing attitude at the university was that if you were a junior person, you kept your place and kept your mouth shut.” But Brown had been unwilling to “pull his forelock” in the class-bound British university system of the early 1960s and joined the brain drain of academics fleeing the UK. Why should he have to wait 15 years for his own lab?

“He’d march over to the dean’s office and raise hell,” Pederson says – and he got what he wanted. Pederson became Brown’s PhD student, and his supervisor “treated me like an equal – but he demanded a lot of work too. We had a goal: not just to publish papers, but to really do something significant.”

T hat significant thing was investigating the human gut. By the 1960s, scientists had worked out that if someone eats

glucose, the amount of insulin created in response is much larger than if they were given glucose via an intravenous drip. Scientists speculated there might be a hormone that governed appetite, and called it an incretin.

Brown and Pederson had only low-tech tools. The research team didn't have the ability to purify substances enough to study them properly. The place to find the new techniques was Sweden: Brown went to work with Viktor Mutt at the Karolinska Institute. Mutt had pioneered techniques for extracting gut peptides. Brown spent a year in Sweden, purifying extracts from hog intestine and sending the samples to Vancouver. Pederson examined their effects in dogs and guinea pigs and demonstrated that their purified extract was a new hormone. The result was his PhD thesis in 1970, and interest from other researchers.

Not that it was a large field. "In the early 1970s we'd have international meetings and there'd be 30 people there," Pederson says. "[John] was always front and centre and sort of pissing everybody off. He would stand up at a meeting and say 'you're full of crap'. In many ways he didn't understand how the system worked."

This abrasive side of Brown's character was matched by warmth and enthusiasm. "He also attracted people like a magnet," he says. Brown put a sign on his door: "If I'm going to be replaced by a robot, it's going to have to learn how to drink.

“We’d work all week, but our lab was party central on Friday

Professor

Tim Kieffer, top,

who worked

with both Ray

Pederson and

Joel Habener.

Dr Jens Juul Holst, above, accepting the Breakthrough Prize in Life Sciences in 2025.

afternoon," he says. "[John] would get a big jug of lab alcohol in a liquid nitrogen bottle, and we'd make these cocktails. So there's all kinds of radioactivity, and we'd sit around smoking and drinking.

Maybe a sense of humour forged in the shadows of Crook colliery did not translate well with the urbane Scandinavian and Californian researchers. Some “knew John, they dished it back to him”. But many did not. Camps were forming in the world of hormone research.

Brown and Pederson knew they

'There's this undercurrent of politics in science. There's competition, and egos and power'

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'There's this undercurrent of politics in science. There's competition, and egos and power'

had a hormone, but not what it did. Another Canadian, John Dupre, suggested it might be the mythical incretin hormone, and during the 1970s, they demonstrated that GIP stimulated production of insulin.

They had demonstrated how your body tells you that you're full after you've eaten something. It took another four decades to work out how to make a drug to do the same thing. But there was still a gap – GIP didn't fully explain the amount of insulin the body produced.

By the early 1980s, technology had moved on – specifically DNA sequencing, which researchers working with endocrinologist Joel Habener at Massachusetts General Hospital used to identify a gene they discovered would make hormones that had yet to be isolated. They called one of them GLP-1.

Ray Pederson

was less effective. GLP-1 became the focus. That's not the only reason that GIP has been overlooked, Pederson believes. Mention the Dane to Pederson and there is some froideur. "There is this undercurrent of politics in science and it happens everywhere," he says. "There's egos, there's competition, there's power. I felt that in my career, it didn't suffer greatly, but it certainly did suffer because of the fact that I just was not prepared to get involved in many of these pissing contests."

Then Jens Juul Holst, a Danish medical doctor, did what Brown, Pederson and Dupre had done with GIP and showed that GLP-1 stimulated insulin in pig intestines.

Two hormones, each doing something similar. Which one was more important? The key moment came in 1993 when a team in Germany, working under Werner Creutzfeldt, compared the effects of the two hormones in nine patients with type 2 diabetes. GIP

While Pederson has enjoyed his retirement on an academic's pension, Holst has had more acclamation. The Dane, along with Habener and three others, was awarded the Breakthrough Prize in Life Sciences in 2025. He was scientific director of the Novo Nordisk Foundation Centre for Basic Metabolic Research at the University of Copenhagen from 2010 to 2020, at a time the company was translating GLP-1 research into diabetes medicines that led to Ozempic, and then Wegovy.

Holst's book, The Story of GLP-1, mentions Brown briefly and Pederson not at all. (Holst did not provide comment for this story.)

The last time the two men saw each other was in 2015. Tim Kieffer, who was Pederson's first PhD student, arranged a conference to mark the history of the discovery of GIP. Kieffer spent time in Habener's lab as well. "I may be the only one who trained with the people who discovered GIP then with the people who discovered GLP-1," he says.

Which hormone does Kieffer think is most important? Habener would have said GLP-1, he says. Each milligram of GLP-1 makes more insulin than GIP. But after a meal, the body produces only a small amount of GLP-1, whereas GIP increases dramatically.

For the conference, Kieffer commissioned both Pederson and Holst to write accounts of GIP's discovery for the Journal of Diabetes Investigation. Pederson's version included some of the people involved; Holst drew unflattering contrasts between GIP and GLP-1, rankling his rival. By this time Brown was ill, and he died in 2016.

Newsletter

James Tapper's Science Observer

When Pederson sees Eli Lilly's extraordinary profits – it sold \$23bn worth of Mounjaro in 2025 alone – based on a drug that mimics both GLP-1 and GIP, does he wonder if he could have taken a different path?

"When you see a drug that you helped develop make billions of dollars, you think it would have been nice to have a slice of that. But it's not an all-consuming thing...

Get the best of The Observer, straight to your inbox

“By today’s standards, using pretty primitive tools, we were able to discover a hormone. When I pick up a physiology textbook, it’s there, and I feel proud of that.”

He is also proud of his work in diabetes research, which led to the emergence of DPP-4 drugs that have made diabetics' lives much easier.

Even in his last week at work, he was at the lab bench. “I love science, and that’s where I want to be, in the lab,” he says. Brown did set up a biotech company in a different area, but Pederson feels it did not make his mentor happy: “I think he found out that money is just money.”

Sponsored by Invest for the Future

Saving is a good start. What comes next?

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Saving is a good start. What comes next?

With housing costs and monthly bills taking up a large chunk of people's income, simply managing to put a bit of money aside each month can feel like a major achievement

No matter what you're into.

Prepare your finances for the year ahead

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Prepare your finances for the year ahead

Cash savings play an important role in helping people feel more secure financially. Having money set aside in a cash savings account can help protect you against an unexpected bill or expense such as a boiler breaking down or car repairs, or if you find yourself out of work.

But do you have a longer-term plan for the money you're setting aside? Perhaps to provide for yourself in retirement or to help your children as they go through life?

Investing could help you achieve these goals by delivering long-term growth on your money. Even putting away a small amount each month could, over time, grow into a substantial nest egg. Saving and investing don't need to be an “either/or”.

Are you already an investor?

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Are you already an investor?

You may not think of yourself as an investor and you wouldn't be alone. Just 36% of UK adults agreed with the statement “investing is for someone like me”, according to a recent ISA Barometer report from industry body the Investment Association.

You may associate investing with a wealthy professional who has extensive financial knowledge and large sums of money to set aside. But in fact, this is far from the case.

“More than eight in 10 workers now pay into a workplace pension, meaning investing is already part of everyday financial life for most households,” says John Owen, chief executive of the Investment Association.

Investing beyond a pension may feel like a bigger step though, which is natural. "We know from the Barclays Investment Readiness

'£1,000 in cash savings would be worth £595 in real terms after 20 years, compared with £1,216 had it been invested'

'There are many investment platforms and accounts that let you start with as little as £1'

You don't have to be an expert to benefit.

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You don't have to be an expert to benefit.

Index that the perception that investing is too complicated is one of the main barriers holding back non-investors," says Sasha Wiggins, Chair of the Invest for the Future Campaign and Chief Executive, Private Bank and Wealth Management at Barclays.

How can investing help you achieve your goals?

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How can investing help you achieve your goals?

"Investing really is for the long term," says Wiggins. "Whether it is home ownership or a comfortable retirement, investing can help achieve those financial ambitions."

There are a whole range of ways people can start investing and it doesn't necessarily mean picking your own stocks and shares. Some platforms will offer ready-made portfolios, so you don't even have to choose your own investments.

If you're saving money in a cash account each month, perhaps some of that money is in a Cash ISA, which means that any interest you earn is tax-free.

But what's also available to savers in the UK is a Stocks and Shares ISA. With a Stocks and Shares ISA, you can invest your money without paying UK tax on any potential growth on your investments.

Investing offers the potential for higher long-term growth than money earning interest in cash savings accounts, although in the short-term your money might fluctuate.

"It is natural to feel nervous about investments going up and down, but it's important to remember that investing is a long-term commitment," says Owen. "The key is to think about when you'll need the money, and the longer you can leave it invested, the more time it has to grow." In fact, the top reason why people have a Stocks and Shares ISA is because they believe that investing will give a better long-term return than a Cash ISA, stated by $54\%$ of holders in the ISA Barometer report.

About 51% of Stocks and Shares ISA investors say their goal is to save for retirement, highlighting how investing can form part of longer-term financial planning.

Brought to you by INVEST FOR THE FUTURE

A recent report by Barclays bank, titled The Missed Opportunity of Not Investing, found that from 2004 to 2024, money held in an average cash savings account would have reduced in value by 40.5%, once the effects of inflation are accounted for – even including interest paid on those cash savings.

In contrast, Wiggins explains, money “invested

'Providers offer diversified funds that invest across different companies, countries or asset types to spread risk'

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'Providers offer diversified funds that invest across different companies, countries or asset types to spread risk'

in a diversified investment portfolio of UK assets would have grown by more than 20%” – even after typical fees of 0.8% were applied.

That means £1,000 in cash savings would be worth £595 in real terms after 20 years, compared with £1,216 had it been invested.

You don't need a lot to start investing

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You don't need a lot to start investing

Investing is not just for the wealthy and doesn't mean committing with a large lump sum. You don't need a financial adviser to get started, although some might appreciate guidance from an adviser before making any investment decisions.

You can get started with either a lump sum amount or set up a regular payment, such as £50 a month, and build your investment up over time.

One in five UK adults (21%) said they were likely to start with a small, regular investment of £10 to £50 in 2026, according to the Investment Association's figures.

The benefit of investing little and often is that you can start small while you feel more comfortable and familiar with investing – particularly if you've never seen it as something that applies to you before.

Even starting with small amounts, there's also the potential impact of compounding over time. If your investments generate returns and those returns are reinvested, they have the opportunity to build further.

As an illustration, if you'd invested £50 a month into a typical global equity fund over five years to the end of 2025, it would have been

worth £3,906, according to calculations from the Investment Association. That's £900 more than had the money been kept in cash in a bank account.

Decide the next step that's right for you

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Decide the next step that's right for you

If investing still feels unfamiliar, there's no need to make a decision immediately. Your first step might simply be to learn more about how investing differs from saving, and whether it's suitable for your own life goals, once you've built a rainy-day fund.

Invest for the Future is an initiative bringing together 20 leading banks and investment companies to provide information for people who save but don't currently invest. The aim is to make investing easier to understand and help people explore whether it could have a place in their longer-term financial plans.

Wiggins puts it simply: “This campaign is not about telling people what they should do with their money. It is about helping people feel more informed, more confident and better equipped to understand whether investing could play a role in helping them achieve their long-term financial goals.”

You might ultimately decide investing isn't right for you right now. Or you might decide that putting a small amount away regularly for a long-term goal such as retirement or helping children financially is worth exploring.

Search "Take the Next Step. Invest." to find the next step that's right for you.

First person

Ranulph Fiennes took me on a global caper. It’s hard to imagine him ‘isolated’

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Ranulph Fiennes took me on a global caper. It’s hard to imagine him ‘isolated’

As concern grows for the veteran explorer's welfare, Giles Whittell recalls the joys of his continent-hopping seven-day marathon quest

First it was family, then friends, then royalty, then the police. The list of concerned parties in what has become a national hunt for Britain's best-known living explorer is long.

Ranulph Fiennes, who suffers from Parkinson's disease and dementia, is thought to be living in a remote farmhouse somewhere in the UK with his second wife, Louise Millington-Cotes, who has power of attorney to make decisions about his care.

The farmhouse could be the one on Exmoor where Fiennes has lived for decades, but few people know for certain and a lot of people want to. He has not been seen in public for two years.

His wife's estranged son, Alexander Millington-Cotes, contacted the press after hearing that he had been living in a series of care homes under assumed names. Inspectors alerted by a care provider in Wales concluded that he was being “deprived of his liberty unlawfully”.

The idea of Ran Fiennes being deprived of liberty by anyone is upsetting and hard to fathom. I can't claim to be a close friend, but for two years, in another life, we were thrown together by one of his wilder schemes and we seemed to hit it off.

In the spring of 2003, Fiennes had had his chest cut open for double bypass surgery after a heart attack. He blamed it on eating whole packs of butter to sustain his calorie intake during long Antarctic winters.

The surgery went well, so six months later it seemed only natural to accept an invitation from his friend Dr Mike Stroud to run seven marathons on seven continents in seven days. They were doing it to raise money for the British Heart Foundation; I went along for the Times, and for the ride.

We started in the Concorde lounge at Heathrow. Roger Moore strolled in with a small entourage and Fiennes let it be known that he'd auditioned in front of Albert Broccoli for the part of James Bond before Moore had.

Fiennes was always more of a real-life Bond. In the next 10 days we tried and failed to land in Antarctica in a propeller plane because a Chilean air force Hercules wouldn't vacate the runway. We turned back half an hour south of Cape Horn and consoled ourselves with cocktails on a private jet to the Falklands so that Fiennes and Stroud could run a marathon there instead.

We did three long laps of Sydney Harbour and practically ground to a halt in the clammy heat of Singapore. “Our muscles are literally breaking up,” said Stroud, then 48, who by this time was urinating

blood and lagging far behind Fiennes (then 59).

He was welcomed as a “messenger of peace” by Egypt’s tourist minister at the great pyramids of Giza at midnight. Curious well-wishers cheered him on along the route of the

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Giles Whittell with Ranulph Fiennes, right, and Mike Stroud, left, leaving the Falklands in style in 2003. Times Newspapers Ltd

1908 London Olympics marathon through Windsor and Eton.

The seventh marathon was New York's, which Fiennes and Stroud ran with tens of thousands of others. I got a migraine five minutes into it, jogging over the Verrazzano-Narrows bridge, but it was worth it. BA was a sponsor and we went business or first class on every flight.

At one point Fiennes's first wife, Ginny, phoned to ask how he was bearing up. I took the call and told her he was doing well. If only the same could have been said for her. When the whole caper was over and Fiennes got back to her at the farm they shared with a herd of Aberdeen Angus, he knew at once something was wrong. They drove straight to London. Ginny was diagnosed with stomach cancer the next day and never returned home.

“Life is now one big, black void,” Fiennes told me afterwards. “Now I just want to work.” Which at least partly explains why, a few months later, we were drinking tea in an Italian hut halfway up a 4,000-metre peak near Zermatt, in training for a trip up Everest. He said he wanted to conquer a fear of heights. I wondered if he wanted to push his heart to the limit and beyond.

“Friends told me the passing of time would help,” he said. “They may be right, but time is not yet working its magic for me.”

Fiennes married Millington-Cotes before he set off for Nepal the following spring. She has said she doesn't want to be approached and so I didn't for this story, but I met them in the tea room of the Ritz in 2005 to talk about Everest. It's fair to say Millington-Cotes was already extremely protective of him. She wanted to be sure coverage of the expedition was positive. Abandoning professional detachment, I did my best to reassure her.

In the end I didn't go. A much better writer did and she wrote hilarious accounts of men doing masochistic things in the death zone in Tibet.

Two decades on, Cheshire police say they are satisfied that Fiennes is in an appropriate setting, with suitable care. But the King has tried to write to him and allegedly been rebuffed. Anton Bowring, a fellow explorer, has been admonished by Millington-Cotes for passing her husband's contact details to Buckingham Palace.

Last week, Ginny's sister told ITV that Fiennes's apparent isolation was "heartbreaking, for him as well as us [because] we want to see him, take him Toblerones and Mars bars, buoy his spirits".

As a humble scribbler who had far too much fun whenever our paths crossed, I can only say: hang in there, Ran, and thanks for all the upgrades.

Wagyu crisps? It's a high-steaks gamble for Japan's boeuf du jour

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Wagyu crisps? It's a high-steaks gamble for Japan's boeuf du jour

Patrick Kidd

When it comes to selling posh crisps, upmarket adjectives count. So when the Co-op was after snacks for the Christmas market, mere “beef” wouldn’t do. This year the beef is wagyu, the expensive Japanese breed. Or “cooked wagyu beef powder”, the penultimate ingredient between paprika and smoked maltodextrin. What do you expect for £1.75?

Wagyu beef might cost you £100 for a fillet steak at a good butcher, but the brand is entering the mainstream at a fraction of the cost. Burger King sells a wagyu burger for £8.99.

The breed didn't leave Japan until the 1970s and won attention for the supposed pampering of the cattle. In recent years, interest in the product has exploded in Britain. In 2023 35,000 wagyu-sired calves were born here, a $1,378\%$ increase on 2014.

So prolific has the meat become at the cheaper end of the market that some British producers are keen to promote the pleasant lifestyle of their herds, which affects taste and price. Andrew Knowles, from Trenchmore Farm in West Sussex, says its herd are sucklers that graze in the fields over the summer. He has crossbred wagyu with Sussex and Angus cows since 2013, aimed at restaurants. "There is a risk if the wagyu market goes into oversupply that the premium it will command will evaporate," he said.

A fillet steak of marbled wagyu beef might cost £100 at a good butcher.

Others are now shunning the beef. Alex Keys, of Farmer Tom Jones, a London butcher, warns it has become ubiquitous. “That fatty marbling looks good on Instagram but if the human body looked like that it would mean all sorts of health problems.”

The business prefers to deal with native breeds that are given a lot of love. “It’s not the cow, it’s the how,” Keys said. “We have one producer in Northumberland who keeps his cows outdoors, feeds them on a 25-plant silage mix and it has fantastic taste.”

In the fields of his Tonbridge constituency, the shadow foreign secretary tells Rachel Sylvester about his fears over China and his support for Kemi Badenoch, and why Labour is wrong about a ‘far-right nostalgic vision’ of Britain

The Observer Walk Tom Tugendhat

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The Observer Walk Tom Tugendhat

MAP BY ELLIE WINTOUR

'My wife promised me we'd get a labrador. Now I find out they're fascist'

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'My wife promised me we'd get a labrador. Now I find out they're fascist'

W

hen Tom Tugendhat is meeting foreign diplomats or dignitaries,

he takes them on a walk. Most politicians have favourite spots for lunch; the shadow foreign secretary has preferred routes. "You talk differently on a walk," he says. "I normally walk around St James's Park. I've spent a lot of time walking around parks in Paris and gardens in Berlin. I was with an Austrian minister last year walking around Vienna. There were lots of interesting spots in Iraq and Afghanistan. I did some great walks in Yemen. It's much easier to get into conversations with people if you're walking next to them than if you're sitting across from them."

I have always wondered whether the habit comes from his military background. Tugendhat was an intelligence officer in the British Army before going into politics. "I haven't thought of it like that," he says, brushing aside questions about undercover operations on walks. "You're luring me down lines I'm not going to go down."

There are – as far as I know – no dead drops on our stroll across the fields in Tugendhat's constituency of Tonbridge, Kent. We meet at Hever station and set off towards Edenbridge. The MP lives around the corner. "This is my walk to church on Sunday," he says. "I find it clears my mind."

We go through a gate warning of cows with calves. An oast house comes into view, surrounded by oak trees. “There’s a reason why Kent is known as the ‘Garden of England,’” Tugendhat says. “It’s the county of warm beer and black labradors.” These were the two things highlighted by a Labour minister last week as symbols of a “far-right nostalgic vision” of Britain, but the shadow foreign secretary finds the culture they represent comforting. “It’s gentle and it’s true, and it’s homely,” he says. “My wife promised me for our engagement that I’d get a labrador and, 13 years later, we still haven’t got one. Now I find out from a minister that labradors are fascist.”

His time as a soldier was less reassuring. Tugendhat served in two wars, Iraq and Afghanistan, and almost died on “several occasions”. One time, when he was working

as an adviser to the governor of Helmand province in Afghanistan, “a suicide bomber came into my office and killed the people I was working with and blew the hell out of the building”. He only survived because he had popped next door. “There’s a lot of luck in life,” he says. “I got blown up by Iraqis. That took a piece out of my chin. We were invading their country, and they weren’t very happy about it.”

He speaks five languages “and can just about understand what’s going on in another few”. He is “pretty good” in French and Italian. “My Arabic’s OK. I used to be able to work in Persian and Pashtu. I did a year of Japanese but it never really stuck. I can understand German and I get by in Dutch.” The qualities he learned as a soldier that are useful in politics include “self-discipline and not to get too riled”.

We cross into another field, avoiding the newly planted crops. Tugendhat was appointed shadow foreign secretary by Kemi Badenoch in August as part of a reshuffle designed to put the Tories on an election footing. Before that, he was not planning to go to the Conservative conference. Now

he will be making a speech. As a linguist, he is well qualified but he insists: “The job isn’t speaking languages – it’s trying to get the best out of foreigners to deliver for Britain.” He despises the idea of diplomacy based on moral values. “The so-called ‘ethical foreign policy’ is rubbish,” he says. “It’s vapid, because the truth is, what another country wants and what we need are different things.”

Ed Miliband promised to stand up “for what is right” around the world when he announced sanctions on illegal Israeli settlements in the West Bank. Tugendhat did not buy it. “His politics is entirely transactional,” he says. “He’s trying to make deals within the leftwing coalition, the so-called ‘progressive parties’. What I think is ethical is standing up for the British people. Every embassy is paid for by British taxpayers. So you had better be damn sure you are getting the best for them.”

We stop by a tree where bees are buzzing around a nest. Tugendhat stood twice for the Tory leadership, representing the centrist one-nation wing of the party. He is socially liberal and voted Remain in the Brexit referendum. Badenoch is

a staunch Brexiteer who recently introduced an ideological purity test for Conservative candidates requiring them to oppose net zero and support withdrawing from the European convention on human rights (ECHR).

Tugendhat had no qualms about rejoining the front bench. “I’ve gone back because I think it matters,” he says, striding off across the field. “Kemi’s demonstrating the kind of leadership that the country needs. I think she’s doing really well, and I feel a responsibility to help her.”

He is happy to sign up to the Tory leader's conditions. "She hasn't said she doesn't believe in climate change. She's just said – and I think it's true – that net zero in one country is like socialism in one country. It's absurd. It doesn't work. All you do is impoverish yourself for no gain." As for the ECHR, "most of it is UK law, anyway, so what you're talking about is the application of it, not the principles behind it", Tugendhat says. "I think what Kemi is doing is a perfectly orthodox Conservative message."

We walk through a small area of woodland, alongside a stream. Andy Burnham used his conference speech to call for more cross-party collaboration on issues such as social care and electoral reform. "He's doing the old political trick of saying this isn't politics. Here's a really contentious political idea that you must agree with. Of course social care should be reformed. But his answer is to nationalise social care and to make kids pay for it."

Photograph by Tom Pilston

In fact the prime minister is proposing to amend the pension triple lock that is set to cost an extra £11bn at today's rates by the end of the next decade. Tugendhat last year described the triple lock as "simply not affordable". So does he agree with Burnham and disagree with Badenoch, who has promised to keep the pensioner benefit? "I'm focused on foreign policy," he replies. "I have my own views about many things, but if you want to join a team, you've got to make sure that you work as part of the team."

We emerge into another neatly ploughed field. A single tree stands majestically alone in the middle. Britain is starting to look dangerously isolated in an unstable world, detached from Europe and abandoned by an unreliable US. Tugendhat insists it is important to have a sense of perspective about Donald Trump. It is, he says, “an illusion that America has ever been anything other than what it is. America is an extremely important partner who views things through its own lens. Those of us who’ve served alongside Americans in combat knew that very clearly. There are American decisions taken for American reasons, and we may agree, or we may disagree, but that’s the pattern.”

Trump seems different from previous presidents, though. He has no respect for the rules-based world order or international institutions, including Nato. He has threatened to invade Greenland, backed a united Ireland and questioned British sovereignty over the Falkland Islands. “He has his own ways of expressing himself,” Tugendhat says. “I don’t find it helpful... but we’ve got to work with him. You can be rude about the American president if you want. Then you can watch investments in the United Kingdom fall, our security be endangered, intelligence sharing damaged. Or you can be honest and say: ‘There’s ups and downs in every relationship.’”

red kite soars overhead. "The Battle of Britain memorial flight goes over here from Biggin Hill," the MP says. "It's

extraordinary to see birds of prey and Spitfires dancing in the skies over Kent." Tugendhat is a China hawk and one of the MPs who was sanctioned by Beijing. Keir Starmer announced earlier this year that the sanctions had been lifted but the shadow foreign secretary has had no confirmation. "The Labour party didn't listen to Starmer – I don't see why Xi Jinping should," he says. "Could I go to China? I think it would be really unwise."

There is no doubt, he says, that the Chinese government has tried to hack into his computer and intimidate him. “Every now and again, if I do something that annoys them, I’ll get a few letters from Beijing or Shanghai, which say rude things. It’s basically: ‘We know where you live.’ Sometimes they’re hand-delivered,” he says. “I think they are behaving in an unbelievably hostile way.”

He thinks there is a strong probability that Covid was created

Tom Tugendhat in the fields outside Edenbridge in his Tonbridge constituency.

by Chinese scientists. “I have no doubt that the pandemic began in Wuhan. Do I think they meant to do it on purpose? No. But I’m almost certain it came out of that laboratory,” he says. “Dictatorships are built on fear. So nobody said anything early enough, and by the time they found out what had happened and where it was from, it was way too late to ask for help and sort it out. And then there was a massive cover-up.”

The economic threat from Beijing is, in his view, just as great. “Forget about whether they’re good, bad, evil, or whatever,” Tugendhat says. “They need to massively export, and the only way they can do that is by swamping the manufacturing systems of every other country.”

Last week, MI5 warned that academics had been involved in research that supports Chinese espionage. The real danger, Tugendhat says, is “one of control. Who controls what’s said in a British university? Already, there are universities which won’t talk about Uyghur genocides, or Xinjiang [the region where many Uyghurs live], or Tiananmen Square. They are so dependent on Chinese students that, if they don’t adapt, as they’d put it – silence themselves, as I’d put it – the Chinese embassy here threatens them that they won’t have any.”

He thinks it was a huge mistake for Labour to give approval for a new Chinese embassy on the edge of the City of London. “We shouldn’t open it. The government bluntly covered up a whole series of things which it has since admitted. It said concerns about cabling were completely rubbish. And the moment they gave approval, they said: ‘We’re going to have to spend millions of pounds moving the cables.’”

We turn on to the road and walk into Edenbridge, a pretty market town full of medieval buildings. It is a quintessentially English scene. The quiet calm of this high street in Kent could not be more different to the anti-migrant protesters who gathered in Dover late last month in the name of defending England. As we walk towards the station, I ask Tugendhat what he thought of the men dressed in black and wearing balaclavas. “I find all that really distasteful and wrong,” he replies. “It’s an undermining of who we are as a society. It really weakens us.”

The Tories must, he insists, align with the decent majority. “This county of Kent was colonised by the Jutes. My mum’s French. My wife’s French. My grandmother is from Ireland. My name comes from Austria. Our leader is Kemi Badenoch. Our former leader was Rishi Sunak... This country is made up of various different peoples.”

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Thank you for your support and solidarity.

'A shady deal with a shady character': America invites investors to help kickstart Venezuela's oil industry $\rightarrow$ Black gold rush, page 27

Cornell gang rape accuser ‘under siege’ online as fresh culture war divides US

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Cornell gang rape accuser ‘under siege’ online as fresh culture war divides US

While conservative voices support and students condemn the seven men accused of assault, digital sleuths are seeking to unmask their purported victim, Ed Helmore writes

The alleged rape of a female student by seven fraternity members at New York's Cornell University has reopened America's culture war divide and reignited debate about consent, online judgment and victim blaming.

The allegation that a 20-year-old woman was subjected to an hours-long assault while her attackers bragged on social media and summoned fraternity brothers to join them has broken out of the Ivy League campus and on to the international stage. In the US, conservative commentators have leapt to defend the accused.

The case has divided social media since campus student newspaper The Cornell Daily Sun published the names of the accused last month. Photos of the men, dubbed the “Cornell Seven”, were posted online. All deny any wrongdoing, with some arguing sex was consensual and at least two denying any sexual contact.

“She’s under siege on social media where people are trying to identify her,” the victim’s lawyer, Thomas Giuffra, told CNN on Friday.

In retaliation, online sleuths began “doxxing” the victim, named only as Jane Doe, in an effort to unmask her. That prompted a social media counter movement last week, with hundreds of female students posting “I am Jane Doe” to shield her identity.

The case, and Cornell's handling of the allegation, has prompted claims that the university has a “rape culture problem”. Reports have highlighted past incidents, including an alleged assault and multiple allegations that victims were drugged at frat parties in 2022, which drove the university to suspend all fraternity social events.

Studies have found that up to 27% of undergraduate women experience nonconsensual sexual contact or rape at American universities. One former head of a New York university told The Observer that the situation at Cornell was “very typical”.

“Cornell has failed our community through its lack of accountability, transparency, and failure to address the state of the Cornell student body at this time,” Sophia Riley Sim, a junior, told the meeting at the student union.

In a 101-page civil lawsuit, filed last month, Jane Doe detailed how she went to visit a friend at Cornell's Chi Phi fraternity house one evening late in 2024.

“She’s a sophomore, and frequently it’s freshmen,” they said. “There are the athletes they look up to, who egg them on to drink or, in this case, take ketamine. So then the girl is so wasted she doesn’t know what happened. Then people talk. It’s complicated.”

Already intoxicated beyond the point of consent, she claims that her friend and one of his fraternity brothers proposed a threesome. They plied her with marijuana and rum, she said, and pressured her to snort a white powder claimed to be ketamine.

'This woman was failed by people and institutions with an obligation to protect her'

Kathy Hochul, NY governor

While the row rages online, at Cornell itself the mood on campus was sombre last week. But at a student assembly, simmering anger at the university's handling of the case boiled over. Reports that the university initially allowed the accused men to submit “essays to mitigate their conduct”, rather than pursuing a criminal investigation, has fuelled the uproar among fellow students.

As the assault unfolded, a third man joined in. One of the men then messaged a group chat named “Chi Phi Actives”, telling members that there was “free pussy” at the frat house. Later, someone asked, “Shop still open?” “Yeah,” another responded with a devil emoji, and later added: “Boys come whip it out.”

“I fucking love Chi Phi,” one posted.

she saw other students in an online forum discussing the incident as rape.

Records of the original investigation, first reported by the New York Times, revealed how the woman's initial embarrassment at the incident evolved into a conviction that she had been assaulted. She exchanged friendly texts with some of the men. When one apologised that the night had "got way out of hand", she reassured him that "non (sic) of the sexual stuff was illegal".

Police declined to bring charges, arguing that the woman's statement "described her participation in drug use and sexual conduct as voluntary, conscious, and consensual".

Friends said Jane Doe was “in shock” and “not understanding the gravity of what she was saying”, until

“That’s the first time I had ever heard the narrative change that I wasn’t a whore and that I was assaulted,” she told investigators.

Tompkins County district attorney Matthew Van Houten pleaded last week that his office had not received the group chat messages at the time. The latest revelations have brought renewed finger-pointing between police and officials at Cornell.

“It has become clear that we were not provided the full picture by the university,” Van Houten said.

Responding to the growing outrage, New York governor Kathy Hochul appointed state attorney general Letitia James as special prosecutor to reopen the criminal case last week. Hochul, who is running for re-election next month, said she moved to act after learning “troubling details” about how authorities have handled the woman’s claims.

“This woman had already endured something that is utterly unspeakable, and then at every turn she was failed by people and institutions with an obligation to protect her,” Hochul said.

Hochul has vowed to close the “voluntary intoxication loophole” in New York rape law. But the case has prompted a backlash among right-wing commentators and the so-called “manosphere”, the online network of influencers and chat forums that promote masculinity and misogyny.

“She said she was fine with it until she suddenly wasn’t,” conservative podcast host Clay Travis said on his show last week. “This is a retroactive rape charge.”

The involvement of James, who brought a fraud case against Donald Trump and his family in 2022, was enough to goad the president into joining the debate on Friday. Denouncing the prosecutor as a “corrupt person”, Trump suggested that the students being investigated by James “won’t get a fair shake”.

"I feel badly for whoever she's looking at," the president told reporters outside the White House, though he admitted he knew little of the case.

“Cornell is a fine school, and I’m sure they’ll do what’s right,” he added.

Students at Cornell University, above; Jane Wung and Sophia Riley Sim this week talking at a student assembly meeting about sexual violence on campus. Matt Rourke/AP

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An oil rig in

Lake Maracaibo,

Venezuela's

largest lake,

visible at the end

of a residential

street in the city

of Cabimas.

Gaby Oraa/Bloomberg

Oil giants gather to feast while Trump calls the shots in scramble for Venezuela's riches

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Oil giants gather to feast while Trump calls the shots in scramble for Venezuela's riches

A black gold rush is drawing entrepreneurs and wildcatters to Caracas, eager to tap into the country's vast US-controlled reserves

Thomas Graham

Caracas

On the golf courses and in the steak houses of Caracas last week, it was just like old times.

“Venezuela is the place to be,” said Erik Keskula, a director at the Qatari company UCC Oil and Gas Holding, observing the excited throng at the Marriott hotel in Venezuela’s capital.

“We’re here to make money,” he went on, before adding: “But we’re also here to try to improve the places we operate.”

Keskula was among hundreds of oil executives who jetted into Venezuela for the first big oil and gas conference since Donald Trump's administration seized the country's leader, Nicolás Maduro, in January. As the White House turns Venezuela into a de facto client state and takes control of its vast oil reserves, a new gold rush has descended on Caracas.

At the Marriott, which has become an unofficial US embassy and a hive of dealmaking between these new prospectors, executives from the world's oil giants mingled with survivors of Venezuela's once titanic oil industry and independent wildcatters, looking for the high-risk bet that could make them a fortune.

“We hired our CEO for Venezuela,” said Keskula. “He asked me what we’re interested in and I just said, ‘Yes’. We’re interested in it all.”

But amid the expectant mood among the delegates and the chatter about contracts and deals, no one was in any doubt who is in charge.

“There’s always give and take in negotiations,” said one attendee from the city of Maracaibo, once the engine of Venezuela’s oil industry. “And the Americans are more take than give,” he added with a laugh.

Trump has basked in the success of his operation in Venezuela, which saw Maduro and his wife snatched in a pre-dawn raid by US special forces. The president has bragged repeatedly of his “historic” deal to control the country’s 300bn barrels of proven oil reserves and paraded gold bars from Venezuela in the Oval Office.

"To the victor belong the spoils," the president gloated during his address to the UN general assembly the week before the conference.

Among the New York audience was Delcy Rodríguez, Maduro's vice-president, who has traded American control of Venezuela's natural resources for her own political survival and that of the regime she now leads. Underscoring his point, Trump reminded Rodríguez and other world leaders of Washington's "unmatched military might".

As the executives settled into their seats at the Marriott, Michael García, deputy chief of mission at the US embassy in Caracas, struck a more diplomatic tone. He stressed the White House's plan to stabilise Venezuela's economy before eventually calling elections, and hailed Venezuela's “renewed willingness to negotiate” with US companies.

"The direction is unmistakable," he said. "Where there was stagnation, there is now investment. And where foreign adversaries once held lease rights to Venezuela's future, American and Venezuelan companies are now riding that future together."

That overstates it. A few oil majors have already announced deals, including Chevron, which will invest \$7bn to double its current production in Venezuela, and the Italian giant Eni, which signed a contract to operate a massive field in the Orinoco belt.

But others remain hesitant to pour billions of dollars into a country that, in some cases, still owes them similar sums from 2007, when Venezuela's former leader, leftwing firebrand Hugo Chávez, nationalised the oil industry and stripped foreign companies of control of their projects. Those who refused to take minority stakes were kicked out of the country.

For all the deal buzz at the Marriott, the technical challenge of what lies ahead is immense. Experts estimate it could cost more than \$100bn and take a decade to restore Venezuela's oil production from roughly 1m barrels a day back to the 3m of its heyday.

The infrastructure is in ruins after years of mismanagement and US sanctions, compounded by the devastating earthquake in June. Outside Caracas, much of the country endures blackouts for eight hours a day.

Delcy Rodriguez, Venezuela's acting president, at the UN general assembly.

To jumpstart the new investment, the Trump administration announced a colossal deal with North American Blue Energy Partners (Nabep), a private Venezuelan oil company, at the end of August. Nabep is run by Alejandro Betancourt, a young oil baron and billionaire, who is currently living in the UK, fighting extradition

'There's always give and take in negotiations – and the Americans are more take than give' Venezuelan delegate

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'There's always give and take in negotiations – and the Americans are more take than give' Venezuelan delegate

to Switzerland and under investigation for alleged money laundering in several countries. He has denied any wrongdoing and has never been convicted of a crime.

Under the deal announced by the White House, the Pentagon has taken a 35% stake in Nabep, which in turn signed a 100-year deal with Venezuela to develop 17 oil fields, holding 65bn barrels of oil. The state department will be able to buy 20% of them at production cost, far below the market price.

“Trump wants this to happen, fast,” said Phil Gunson, a Caracas-based analyst for Crisis Group. “So his administration determined that they can kickstart the process by a rather

– to say the least – shady deal, with a shady character.”

Venezuelan law does not allow concessions longer than 25 years, but that appears irrelevant in the new Wild West of Caracas.

“That deal is completely illegal,” said one Venezuelan executive at the conference, who did not want to be named. The kidnap of Maduro, “was just the tip of the iceberg” in the Trump administration’s plan for control of the country. “We’re a US protectorate,” he added.

Speakers who took to the stage at the Marriott included Hunter Hunt, the Texan chief executive of Hunt Energy, a family-owned oil firm that operates in high-risk markets such as Yemen and Iraq.

"As my father likes to say, a deal's not a good deal unless it's good for both sides," said Hunt. "Because [if not] it's just a matter of time before somebody comes back to the table and says it's not working."

Venezuelans will have to take his word for it. So far, little has been made public about any of the deals being signed. While the Trump administration and the oil majors carve up the country, lesser known companies hunt for a piece of the action.

"These deals are being negotiated behind closed doors, and the terms are usually not made public," said Gunson.

The greatest risk to the revival of Venezuela's oil industry is one that moderators on stage did not want to discuss: politics. Every deal signed today rests on the uneasy accord between Trump and Rodríguez. With Democrats favoured to take back control of Congress in US midterm elections next month and Trump set to leave the White House in two years, it is uncertain how much of the new Venezuela policy will survive him.

Trump's move to prop up the remnants of the Maduro regime is widely unpopular. Many Venezuelans crave an election and the popular opposition leader María Corina Machado has already questioned the legitimacy of deals signed with Rodríguez.

“They keep talking about change,” said a former engineer from Venezuela’s state oil company. “But the change we want is for this government to go.”

Outside, delivery drivers watched as the oil executives were whisked away to their next meetings. Nothing has improved for ordinary Venezuelans since January, said one called Rafael.

“But if even 10% of what they’re planning comes to be,” he added, “maybe we’ll be a rich country again.”

Putin's African recruits: the Kenyans lured into fighting Russia's war

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Putin's African recruits: the Kenyans lured into fighting Russia's war

As the Ukraine conflict approaches its sixth winter, hundreds of young men who believed they were starting civilian jobs are finding themselves instead on the battlefield. Francisco Garcia reports

At first, Stephen doesn't seem like the most talkative source. A Kenyan man in his early thirties, he has recently returned from the war in eastern Ukraine. In the living room of his family home in Nairobi, a series of framed photos sits along the back wall, including one with his beaming young daughter. But the most striking is a faded image of Stephen in military fatigues, aged 19. It shows the day of his graduation as a member of the Kenya Air Force.

After a decade of service, Stephen – not his real name – left in the early 2020s to sell spare car parts. Business was good until last year, when his premises was looted in a wave of unrest that followed Kenya’s 2024 Gen-Z protests. “I had to start again,” Stephen says. “[One opportunity] came soonest, so I took it.” An advert appeared online offering well-paid security guard work in Russia. There would be a hefty signing bonus and a salary translating to around £3,000 a month.

Weeks later, Stephen was in Vovchansk, a mostly destroyed town in north-east Ukraine. “[This] was war,” Stephen knew. But nothing had prepared him for the scale of the bloodshed or the thin whine of drones that stalked his every move.

Weeks later, Stephen triggered a landmine which ripped through the right-side of his body. He suffered deep shrapnel wounds and internal bleeding between his chest wall and lungs. On medical leave in St Petersburg at the start of this year, he hatched an escape plan. After approaching a friendly contact at the Kenyan embassy, a flight home was organised, paid for with Stephen's wages.

Stephen is one of hundreds of Kenyans – and several thousand other Africans – who have travelled to fight in Vladimir Putin's war over the past year. Some have done so willingly. Others have been misled by the promise of civilian jobs.

This line between willing and duped is often blurred. Kenya's National Intelligence Service estimates that well over 1,000 Kenyan nationals have travelled to fight for Russia in Ukraine. Several dozen have been killed. Many more are being held in Ukrainian prisoner of war camps with little immediate prospect of returning home. A few, like Stephen, have come back to tell their stories.

As the war in Ukraine approaches its sixth winter, Russia is losing an estimated 30,000 soldiers a month and both sides have become increasingly reliant on foreign fighters to plug the gaps in their armed forces. Most are from poorer countries. More than 7,000 Colombians have joined the Ukrainian war effort and perhaps 2,000 are fighting on the Russian side as mercenaries.

Thousands more have swelled Russian ranks from its ex-Soviet republics, along with a steady flow from North Korea. The Kremlin's rationale is clear: almost anything is preferable to imposing a politically and demographically costly mobilisation of Russian citizens.

Putin's African recruits have prompted the most vivid headlines. From South Africa to Togo and Cameroon, a sophisticated network of recruiters has kept African labour flowing to the Russian frontline. Freshly published research by Code for Africa, an investigative NGO, shows how these recruiters have advertised on Meta and TikTok.

Some posts are “casting calls” seeming to offer work as actors and film extras in Russia. Others are more straightforward. “Military contract in Russia,” runs one targeting Ivory Coast earlier this month.

Kenya has been badly hit. Anger at the country's dire economic situation has been building for some time, prompting a government-backed drive to send Kenyan workers abroad. More than 400,000 have travelled to Europe, the US and the Middle East in the past decade. Remittances from workers abroad are worth £7.7bn to the Kenyan economy, but many become trapped in exploitative conditions.

“Everyone now tries to look for opportunities where they can get them, even the riskiest places,

Countries with recruits who joined Russia in the war on Ukraine

Number of foreign fighters

Fewer than 100 100-499 500-999 More than 1,000 including Russia," says Ndindi Nyoro, an opposition MP. "People feel they are already in a corner here, economically speaking."

Source: I Want to Live project - Ministry of Defence of Ukraine and Defence Intelligence of Ukraine

Protests by the families of Kenyans trapped on the frontline in Ukraine have brought growing public pressure. In February Kenya's foreign minister, Musalia Mudavadi, travelled to Moscow for talks with his Russian counterpart, Sergei Lavrov. No more Kenyans, they agreed, would be taking up arms for Russia, voluntarily or otherwise. Since then, more than 600 Kenyan recruitment agencies have been closed.

The most high-profile case has centred on Festus Arasa Omwamba, the head of an agency called Global Faces Human Resources. The 33-year-old was arrested in February trying to cross the Ethiopian border after 22 Kenyans were discovered in an apartment complex waiting to travel to Russia. Omwamba pleaded not guilty to human trafficking charges and was bailed earlier this year. His whereabouts are currently unknown.

Three other Kenyan men recruited by Omwamba's company did make it to the frontlines. One of them was Stephen. First came the job advert, then the rapid procurement of a visa and a plane ticket to St Petersburg via Istanbul. On arrival he was met by a Russian contact whose name seemed to keep changing. "I knew him as Rizwan," Stephen says. "Others knew him as Ali. [We] went to his apartment to eat... the next morning, we left."

After opening bank accounts, they were sent on a journey of several 'I told my commander I didn't want to fight Ukrainians. But he said, we gave you food. You can't refuse'

Dancan Chege

days to a military camp where they received three weeks of basic training. Then they were shipped to the front.

“I don’t want to be stereotypical [but] white people do not love Black people,” Stephen says. “[We] were the ones who were immediately sent out.”

As a former soldier, he thought he understood violence. The hundreds of unburied, often mutilated bodies on the battlefield disabused him of that. It was impossible to know how many people he saw killed, or even how many he killed himself, he says. Sleep was impossible. Rations of ammunition, food and even water were sporadic at best. Within days, the few survivors of his unit were reduced to eating termites. “We survived like that for two or three days until [our] drones dropped food for us”.

Families of Kenyan men recruited to fight in Ukraine hold pictures of their missing relatives, left. Anadolu/Getty Images

Dancan Chege, below, signed up for a driving job and ended up as a soldier.

After several weeks of combat, Stephen stumbled on to the landmine that left him hospitalised and gravely injured. Arriving back in Nairobi was “heavenly, the best feeling in the world. I have never been that happy”.

His elation was short-lived. Everything he earned was spent on his journey home. Still jobless, he struggles to afford the medication he needs to deal with his injuries.

Did he have any idea of what would happen, before his departure? Perhaps, he concedes, “security” might have involved guarding a military base, but he is adamant he didn’t know it would involve frontline combat.

It didn't take long for Dancan Chege to realise the truth. A wiry figure in his early thirties, he answered an advert for a well-paid driving job in Russia last summer. "I was thinking I will change our [situation]. I will go there and make things better here."

To raise the deposit demanded by the recruitment agency, Chege's mother took out a loan from a local co-operative. Like Stephen, he flew to Russia via Istanbul. He was given a gun and two weeks' basic training before arriving in war-shattered Donetsk, in eastern Ukraine. His new Russian employer was the Wagner Group, the notorious mercenary outfit. "I told my commander I didn't want to fight Ukrainians. I wanted to go back to my home country. But he said, 'We have given you training, given you food. You cannot refuse'."

The price for disobeying would be death. Chege tells a familiar story of constant drones, chaos and indiscriminate killing. Eventually, he secured medical leave after feigning-mental health issues. In Moscow, he absconded from hospital and bought a flight home after his mother sold the family cow. He was never paid.

Chege made a startling claim. Even now, after months of publicity about the fate of Kenyans who have travelled to Russia, he still gets messages from people keen to go. Several times a week, he fields requests from people wanting to be linked up to recruiters. "I tell them to just [go] away," he says.

Scan the QR code for the slow newscast to find out more

Was it possible that the covert military recruitment networks were still operational? While in Nairobi, we found several recent Facebook posts appearing to show at least two dozen young Kenyan men recently leaving Jomo Kenyatta International Airport for jobs in Russia. Recent recruitment ads offer lucrative agricultural and food processing jobs, using AI-generated templates similar to those used in the military ads documented by Code for Africa. Another post published last month depicts a group of smiling men being waved off for their departing flight. Their matching hoodies bear the logo for Wings Recruitment, a Nairobi-based agency, as well as BRICS Mobility, a Russian firm. There is no evidence that the advertised jobs are for anything other than civilian roles.

When we contacted Wings, we were told that while there were some unscrupulous people in their line of work, everything the firm does is above board and complies with Kenyan recruitment laws. At its offices in an upmarket Nairobi neighbourhood, a sign proudly declared its expertise in sending Kenyans abroad. There was no mention of Russia.

BRICS Mobility also declined to respond directly to questions about its connections to Wings, though it did offer to arrange an in-person visit to check on the conditions of its African workers if we could arrange Russian visas and media accreditation. The firm subsequently issued a press release on its website, warning that “unscrupulous recruitment and education agencies in African countries may be using our name”.

Stephen was not surprised that Kenyans are still willing to travel to Russia. There was an old proverb that got to the heart of it, he said. It was about a poor young boy hunting an elephant for its ivory. "If he kills the elephant, his poverty ends. If the elephant kills him, his poverty ends. Either way, his poverty has ended."

Additional reporting by Edwin Okoth. This article was supported by a grant from the Alameda Institute

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I'm all too familiar with how Whitehall views devolved powers. Good luck, Andy Michael Heseltine, page 33

The first-past-the-post system was built for a two-party Britain. That era is over Andrew Rawnsley

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The first-past-the-post system was built for a two-party Britain. That era is over Andrew Rawnsley

As politics fragments, Andy Burnham's promise to overhaul elections is welcome. But what comes next is far from settled

At the 1951 election, Labour and the Conservatives had a combined vote share of nearly 97% and no one much complained about the electoral system. When British politics was truly a two-horse race, you could justify using first-past-the-post to select the government.

We now have a five-horse race in England and a six-horse one in Scotland and Wales. Perverse results ensue when you try to feed multiparty politics through a system built for a duopoly. Andy Burnham inherited a mammoth parliamentary majority from Sir Keir Starmer, but Labour's vote share at the 2024 election was only a whisker over a third of those who turned out. That loveless landslide was the most disproportionate result in Britain's experience of universal suffrage. The next election threatens to produce even more outlandish outcomes. When a handful of parties are scoring between $10\%$ and $30\%$ , small shifts in support can trigger massive swings in the seats won and lost. It is not impossible that a single-party government could take office with the support of just three in 10 of those who voted and two in 10 of the country as a whole. That will not feel legitimate and it will be rotten for public faith in democracy.

The arguments for retaining first-past-the-post have never felt weaker. Defenders used to justify the disproportionality of winner-takes-all on the grounds that it guaranteed strong and stable governments capable of decisive action. Yet two of our five most recent elections – in 2010 and 2017 – have produced hung parliaments. David Cameron had to scramble together a coalition with Nick Clegg which no one had actually voted for. Theresa May cobbled up an arrangement with the Democratic Unionist Party. Mr Burnham is the seventh leaseholder of Number 10 in just a decade. Not so strong and stable.

Of all the bold announcements made in his bravura speech to his party conference, the Labour leader's declaration of support for electoral reform has the potential to be the most transformative. He says that a new national commission will examine the options and he will contest the next election with a manifesto commitment to overhaul the electoral system “so that everyone’s vote counts and everyone’s voice is heard”. This means the next election could be the last ever fought using first-past-the-post. This prospect terrifies most Tories. They have already said they will boycott the commission and can be expected to be ferocious in their opposition to change.

"The next election could be the last ever fought using first-past-the-post." Leon Neal/Getty Images

The issue will expose Labour's internal divisions. While reform has become an increasingly popular cause within the party's ranks, support for it is by no means universal. “Terrible idea,” says one minister. “We’ll never have a majority Labour government again.” A different Labour MP warns that two years of wrangling over reform will be “a massive diversion for Andy when he’s got so many other big things to deal with”. Others shudder about a future of European-style coalitions and fear that proportional representation would ultimately encourage Labour to splinter into its underlying factions. Among the cabinet, John Healey, the chancellor, has a history of opposing reform. I’m told that Louise Haigh, the number two to the prime minister, and Anneliese Midgley, the chief whip, are sceptics.

Mr Burnham used to be one himself. He gives some credit to his recently deceased dad, Roy, for his conversion to the cause. Unlike his predecessors as Labour leader, he doesn't seem leery of coalition politics and consensus-building is a constant theme of his rhetoric. There's also shrewd calculation lurking behind this promise. "If your strategy is to unite the progressive bloc, it's a smart move," comments one Labour strategist. Along with his suggestion that the UK needs a closer relationship with the EU, promising electoral reform helps the Labour leader build "a progressive alliance" in the run-up to the next election and will likely make it easier to snag tactical votes from Greens, Lib Dems and others.

Precisely what transpires will be highly contingent on what kind of reform is proposed. Who will chair the commission? Who else will sit on it? What will be its precise remit? The future will be as clear as fog until Number 10 starts answering the key questions.

We do have some clues about what is in the prime minister's mind. Aides say that he regards it as “critical” that any new system retains the “constituency link”. That would rule out a move to the purely proportional systems used in some other countries such as Israel and the Netherlands. The prime minister's conference speech did not actually mention proportional representation. He spoke about “electoral reform”, a more elastic term.

Manchester under the Supplementary Vote system, where voters are invited to choose first and second preference candidates. If no candidate receives more than 50% of first preferences, the top two continue to a run-off. It incentivises politicians to reach out to supporters of other parties and encourages positive campaigning. It's certainly not proportional.

Many Labour reformers favour adopting a version of voting mechanisms that are already in place in the UK. The Scottish Parliament and the London Assembly are chosen by the Additional Member System, which consists of two ballot papers. Voters elect a constituency representative using first-past-the-post. They also vote for a party, and additional members are then allocated from regional party lists to help ensure that each party's share of seats more closely reflects its share of the vote. This retains the constituency link while making the overall outcome more proportionate.

First-past-the-post has survived as long as it has because neither of the big parties previously found it in their interests to scrap it. For the first time, we have a Labour prime minister who thinks electoral reform makes sense for him personally and for the wider progressive cause. The battle to come will be about what precisely it should be replaced with and whether it would be proper to make a fundamental change to the rules of the game without holding a referendum. A conference pledge is not the same as a change to the law. The struggle ahead will be prolonged and it will be fierce. Buckle up.

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Esther Rantzen made it impossible to ignore our struggle for assisted dying Sarah Wootton

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Esther Rantzen made it impossible to ignore our struggle for assisted dying Sarah Wootton

W e have all

heard a lot

over the past

few days about

people who

grew up with

Esther Rantzen. About families who gathered to watch That's Life!, about the young people whose lives were changed by Childline, and about the older people who found companionship through the Silver Line she created.

I want to talk about how the campaign for assisted dying grew with Esther.

Esther came to assisted dying late in an extraordinary life of social reforming, after her diagnosis with stage four lung cancer in 2023. But when she arrived, she brought everything that had defined her public life: curiosity, courage, mischief, persistence and an instinctive determination to make people listen to those whose voices were too easily ignored.

That instinct ran through everything she did. Esther succeeded in television at a time when women were routinely denied the opportunities, authority, and airtime afforded to men. She became not just a presenter, but a producer, journalist and formidable campaigner. Later, she created Childline and the Silver Line

because she saw people being failed and decided that noticing was not enough.

Those qualities were unmistakable when you met her in person. I arrived at one event with a much-laboured-over speech. Esther, on the other hand, had one word on her prompt sheet. She proceeded to tell a long, lewd joke.

The room was transfixed. Then it dissolved into fits of laughter. That was Esther: completely in command, herself, able to move people from seriousness to joy and back again without ever losing sight of why she was there and what she wanted people to feel.

When she began speaking

Esther Rantzen, who died last week aged 86, photographed in March 2022. She spoke openly about her cancer diagnosis and the possibility that she might one day want an assisted death.

Hollie Adams/AFP, Getty

publicly about assisted dying, she did something equally powerful. She gave a voice to the suffering, highlighting the hard conversations and choices of so many terminally ill people and their families.

By talking so openly about her own diagnosis, her fears and the possibility that she might one day want an assisted death, she gave permission to thousands of other families across the land to talk about their wishes, too.

Dignity in Dying had spent decades building the case for change, reflecting huge public support, bringing together terminally ill people and their families, developing the evidence on the failures of the status quo and steadily pushing assisted dying up the political agenda. Esther's intervention gave our long-running campaign an extraordinary new reach and urgency, taking a cause already supported by so many people into homes and conversations across the country.

After Esther spoke publicly about wanting the choice for herself, assisted dying moved rapidly up the national conversation. She challenged political leaders directly, supported parliamentary efforts to change the law and, even as her health deteriorated, continued to speak about what the existing

Esther saw people being failed and decided that noticing was not enough

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Esther saw people being failed and decided that noticing was not enough

law meant for her and her family. Tributes this week have captured what made her such an effective campaigner. Childline's Shaun Friel remembered her as someone who "inspired people, energised people, persuaded people". Lord Dobbs recalled her as "delightful, articulate, fun – and very persistent".

That last word matters.

Esther did not see every campaign she fought for succeed immediately. She understood that social change

is rarely neat, quick or linear. What mattered was continuing to make the case, continuing to expose what was not working and continuing to insist that the people most affected were heard.

Her death comes after a painful period for those of us who campaigned alongside her on assisted dying. Westminster came closer to changing the law than at any point in modern British history, before the latest bill was narrowly defeated last month.

Esther did not live to see the change she wanted in England and Wales. But she did see assisted dying come to the British Isles: in Jersey and the Isle of Man.

Our debt to her is enormous. So, too, is our debt to her daughter Rebecca Wilcox, who campaigns alongside us with extraordinary strength.

Sarah Wootton is the chief executive of Dignity in Dying

Delayed justice on Grenfell Tower is not a ‘milestone’

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Delayed justice on Grenfell Tower is not a ‘milestone’

The case is finally with the CPS – too late for a mother dying without answers, argues Kimia Zabihyan

Esther spent her life refusing to accept that difficult problems should simply remain somebody else's problem. That fighting spirit will remain with us.

That 20 companies and 54 individuals in the Grenfell Tower fire investigation have been referred to the Crown Prosecution Service was hailed as a jubilatory “milestone” last week.

We will miss her wit, her warmth and her wicked sense of humour. Above all, we will remember her persistence.

For the families of the majority of the 72 people who died, it was no such thing.

The next deadline for our diaries? The CPS charging decisions, expected before the tenth anniversary of the fire in June 2027.

“It feels like yesterday,” is something I hear repeatedly. But the truth is it has been more than nine years of waiting. Toddlers have become teenagers, parents have died without seeing justice.

I have been an advocate for more than 250 of the survivors, residents and next of kin of the deceased since the week after the fire. The faces of their loved ones are familiar from the memorial poster cobbled together from social media posts. It – were separated in the gallery of faces. “Can you put them together?” she asked me. I did, matching up all the families so they were side by side. These things mean so much.

was Masoomeh Samimi who told me one day how much it upset her that her mother and her aunt – found together, their ashes mingled

Some things you can't change: another mother has died waiting for justice. Three months ago, Zohra Rabaee died, aged 82. She made sure she visited to say her goodbyes at the tower before she passed away. Night and day, she prayed for the soul of her daughter, Khadija Khalloufi, who died in the fire. Her picture on the poster is of a bright face with a beautiful smile.

Zohra's son Karim once told me: "My mother is holding on for justice. I don't know how to tell her it may not come in her lifetime. And perhaps not even mine." Delayed justice is not abstract. It is a mother dying without an answer.

From 2019 onwards, at meetings with the CPS senior prosecutors and the Metropolitan police, the families kept asking: why are there no charges yet? In 2020, we heard the answer: it was because the Grenfell

And we will carry it with us.

On 15 June 2017, the day after the fire, the then prime minister Theresa May had visited the still-smouldering tower. Later that day, she announced a full statutory public inquiry. This single decision changed the course of justice because it led to delays in the police investigation and will affect the ability of the CPS to bring charging decisions. Defendants will lawyer up and the first defence will be “my client can’t get a fair trial”. The CPS may conclude it cannot proceed with many of the charges that might have been brought.

The senior prosecutors and

The irony was that the evidence at the inquiry was gathered by the Met and given to the inquiry, but the police had to wait until the inquiry was “over” before it could present the evidence to the CPS for charging decisions. “So what was the inquiry for,” the families asked. “For learning lessons,” they were told.

Tower public inquiry had been sequenced to take priority.

'What was the inquiry for,' families asked. 'For learning lessons,' they were told

the Metropolitan police said they had never “experienced anything like” this in their “entire careers”. It was “unprecedented” that the inquiry had been ordered before the criminal process. The delays, they said, were due to “waiting” for the inquiry to be over. The police told us that they were dealing with an extraordinary situation: a public inquiry and a criminal investigation examining many of the same events at the same time with almost all the evidence coming from the police being handed over to the inquiry.

In September 2024, when the inquiry finally published its report, the families of more than half of the deceased gathered for a press conference. They were furious: an inquiry they never asked for had cost over £173m. It had delayed justice for seven years, at that point.

That autumn, we asked the now Baroness May of Maidenhead why she had made that decision, and if she had sought legal advice about its impact. She replied, citing the “unimaginable tragedy”, but failed to answer our question. We wrote back: had she spoken to the attorney general, the Met police or the CPS about the potential impact? She

replied: “I set up the inquiry so we could fully establish how and why the fire happened and to learn the lessons to ensure such a tragedy never happens again.”

In January 2026 we asked the CPS and the Met and were told: “We were not consulted. We were told.” So we approached the then prime minister Keir Starmer’s cabinet office through freedom of information requests, and for a year were given no answers about May’s process.

This is not a historical curiosity. An answer would allow the families and the public to understand how one of the most consequential decisions in the aftermath of one of the largest homicide investigations in the country with large corporate and state players – including the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, a government department and ministers of state – came about.

We are asking Andy Burnham to give the families something the system has failed to: transparency and answers. Prime minister, open up the files. Let the light in.

Now that would be a milestone.

Kimia Zabihyan is an advocate for Grenfell Next of Kin

I did Manchesterism – in Liverpool Michael Heseltine

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I did Manchesterism – in Liverpool Michael Heseltine

anchesterism was an appropriate title for Andy Burnham's speech in

M

which he called for growth in every postcode in Britain. I have made similar speeches, although they would appropriately have been labelled “Liverpoolism”. I have waited with anticipation now that, as prime minister, he is in a position to drive the devolution agenda forward.

I do not doubt his conviction. As mayor of Greater Manchester, he showed what was possible in that job, but half the country has no such devolved framework, and even in the metro areas, too much power is still concentrated in the Whitehall departments of central government.

I am all too familiar with the ability of those departments to create obstacles to any proposals that threaten their dominance.

When Margaret Thatcher gave me the go-ahead to create the Docklands Development Corporation to regenerate more than 2,400 hectares (6,000 acres) of derelict land in London's East End, they explained that it would require hybrid legislation, with all the delay that would have involved, because only one place was affected by the proposed law. I said we would take general powers to tackle urban regeneration, and asked for the second worst area. Liverpool got a development corporation too!

Faced with the responsibility to replace the poll tax with the council tax, I was told it would take the district valuer 10 years to complete the necessary valuation of every house. The private estate agents did the job without complaint in six months.

The search for a more effective relationship between the central government and the country at large has been a continuing debate since the 1940s. The Labour government created the new towns programme to cope with slum clearance, and then established the Redcliffe-Maud commission to report on the pattern of about 1,200 local authorities in England.

The recommendation that they should be swept away and replaced by approximately 60 unitary authorities was rejected by turkeys being asked to vote for Christmas in the corridors of Whitehall, and by the aldermen and councillors of England. I was the environment secretary Peter Walker's junior minister when we managed to reduce the number to about 300 in 1972, consisting of two-tier county councils, with a new tier of metropolitan councils in the big cities co-ordinating the urban

boroughs. I still carry the political scars accumulated in meetings with councillors whose world I was about to end.

It was in Liverpool in 1981, however, that my understanding of local government underwent a personal transformation. As secretary of state for the environment since 1979, I had inherited a special relationship with the city established by my Labour predecessor, Peter Shore. I felt my decision to announce the development corporation and the garden festival, the redevelopment of the Albert Dock, and to transfer the derelict land grant into city improvement confirmed this relationship.

In 1981, the NatWest bank was torched amid riots in the Toxteth part of the city. I agreed with Mrs Thatcher that I would visit the city.

What are you going to do about it, asked a journalist. I had noticed one common feature in all the many conversations I'd had. Everyone knew who to blame – and it was always someone else. There was no one in charge. I had produced a list of about 30 ideas that had struck me as potential opportunities as I walked the streets.

The General Electric Company could be asked to regenerate what became the Wavertree Technology Park on its doorstep; the housing corporation could unlock the cathedral precinct; and the Victoria and Albert wanted a new museum in the Albert Dock.

Who was going to make all this happen? I had learned that only as secretary of state did I have the power and resources necessary. There was just one answer. For the next 18 months, I spent a day every week running a taskforce drawn from the public and private sectors, making that list a reality. I believe it represents the most interventionist ministerial experience on record.

Burnham's “every postcode” demands a comprehensive national policy. He has mayors in

I bear the scars of meetings with councillors whose world I was about to end

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I bear the scars of meetings with councillors whose world I was about to end

the metropolitan areas. He should legislate at once to convert the counties into mayoral unitaries, with the first mayors to be elected in 2027. He will have to confront the argument that counties do not always reflect economic reality. The best should not be allowed to be the enemy of the good. The project should be tackled with urgency.

The critical need to create wealth precludes the option and delay involved in creating a new class of authority. Each mayor should

be charged with producing a local economic plan and invited to bid for central funds, indicating what additional investment would be attracted if such funds were provided. This process would involve local companies, organisations, universities, quangos and citizens more widely in wealth-creation policies relevant to local strengths and the elimination of weaknesses.

There is no more money. The solution is to use existing budgeted funds more effectively. The experience of gearing is well proven. George Osborne top-sliced £2bn from the Whitehall functional budgets of about £10bn. I would suggest raising this to approximately £5bn and to distribute it to mayors offering the most attractive extra funding. Less successful mayors would learn rapidly how to improve their bids.

There is nothing new in these ideas. They have all been proved in practice. If the prime minister wants to fulfil another of his ideas and reach out across the political divide, he could invite Greg Clark to join his team and bring all his experience as a successful devolution minister.

Michael Heseltine was an MP from 1966 to 2001. He has been a cabinet minister and was deputy prime minister from 1995 to 1997.

Keynes is my intellectual lodestar. Is a play about his life on the money? Will Hutton

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Keynes is my intellectual lodestar. Is a play about his life on the money? Will Hutton

James Graham's celebration of John Maynard Keynes, the great economist, brought a tear to the eye. Our resident expert separates fact from fiction

regard the economist John Maynard Keynes as offering the most original, insightful and best understanding of contemporary capitalism yet devised. He is my intellectual lodestar, whose thinking has informed all my writing. So it was with some trepidation I went to see James Graham's The Standard of Living, which depicts Keynes's life and ideas. Could the playwright with a genius for the popular get beyond Keynes's bisexuality and involvement with the Bloomsbury group? How much would he fall for the bastardised comic-cut version of Keynes offered by the economic and political right – “he was merely a tax-and-spend quasi-socialist” – but try from the liberal left to defend those propositions?

The play's foundational proposition is that Keynes believed that economics had to be the science that above all allowed people to live good lives. Is that right?

I left London's Theatre Royal Haymarket impressed. Graham gets Keynes and his paradigm-shifting importance – he stands alongside Einstein and Freud. Even if two-and-a-half hours of sometimes brilliant theatre, and a superb performance from Rory Kinnear as Keynes, inevitably leaves much unsaid. In the last few minutes I had to blink back tears. Here were unexpected allies from an unexpected quarter celebrating the majesty of Keynes's thinking – but, given his love of the arts, maybe they were the most fitting.

Emphatically, yes. Keynes believed passionately that the task of economics was to offer everyone the chance to live a good life – that money only served that end. His greatness was to break from the desiccating propositions of laissez-faire and offer the thinking and means to do just that.

He laid the foundations of the postwar national and international settlements that allowed governments to shape markets, especially financial markets, partner business as equals and create cradle-to-grave social security systems. For 30 years there was full employment and rising living standards. He delivered the promise of economics.

Yes. In his landmark The Economic Consequences of the Peace published in 1919, Keynes argued in scathing terms that the scale of the colossal reparations that the victor powers of the First World War had imposed on Germany were unpayable and could only lead to German hyperinflation, economic and political instability and ultimately a threat to the liberal world order the allies had fought to preserve. Hayek lived through the privations of hyperinflation in Vienna and admired that an English economist could so bravely condemn the Treaty of Versailles. What later divided them was Keynes's belief that free market capitalism has no embedded proclivity to find so-called "equilibrium outcomes" (ie all will be well for all) except perhaps, and unreliably, in the very long run. Thus the state has a duty to act. Instead Hayek argued the state, in the name of liberty, must never interfere in the market's attempt to find equilibrium, which it will unfailingly do despite any slump – eventually.

In the play the great free market ideologue Friedrich Hayek is portrayed as a superfan at the start and later Keynes's greatest critic. Was this really so?

Did Keynes really tell the parable about when an innkeeper accepts a £1 deposit for a room that is never actually rented but triggers a chain reaction of spending in the village that lifts business and morale?

Keynes used vivid examples to explain his thinking to the wider public, and it's often said he used this “parable of the pound” to explain the “multiplier” effect – that spending has a ripple, stimulating effect – a core component of his thought. As far as I know there is no hard evidence that Keynes used this example – on the other hand, Graham’s research is pretty good!

Did he really score higher in psychology than economics?

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Did he really score higher in psychology than economics?

He took the civil service exams before the First World War, and his poor marks in economics compared to his high marks in everything else, including psychology, stopped him from coming first. His examiners, he joked, must have known less about economics than him.

Graham portrays him as a gay man who solicited sailors in public loos and had affairs with the writer Lytton Strachey and the artist Duncan Grant. Is this so?

Keynes had many relationships with men during his undergraduate days in Cambridge and during and after the First World War, including with Strachey and Grant, both members of the Bloomsbury set. He kept a log of who he slept with and noted their sexual performance. And yes, he cruised in parks and public loos. If the great Greek philosophers could pay homage to male beauty, why not scions of Cambridge colleges?

Did he really fall in love and marry a dancer with the Ballets Russes?

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Did he really fall in love and marry a dancer with the Ballets Russes?

He fell head over heels in love with Lydia Lopokova. He loved

John Maynard Keynes, inset, in 1929. Below: The ballerina Lydia Lopokova, later Lady Keynes, pictured in 1931.

Rory Kinnear as Keynes with Natalia Osipova and Luke Cinque White in The Standard of Living.

Manuel Harlon

the energy of her high-octane dancing. Homosexuality was illegal at the time; the risk could make encounters with men transactional. With a woman, this was not an issue. After marrying, his log of sexual conquests ceased. Lopokova's love and care carried him through the next 20 years, including the period of his best work. Their big regret was not having children.

Did he set up the Arts Council?

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Did he set up the Arts Council?

Yes. He believed great art enriches everyone's life – it was part of his moral universe that art should not be the preserve of the wealthy. The Arts Council was to try to bring that experience to every British citizen, and he was drafting its statutes even in the days leading up to his death.

In the play, Hayek is seen to be adopted by Margaret Thatcher, his book placed in a symbolic handbag. Did this happen?

Few economists rate Hayek professionally, but The Road to Serfdom is regarded as one of the great rightwing ideological rallying books of the 20th century. Markets equal freedom; the state equals coercion. Thatcher insisted that every member of her cabinet read it to underscore their commitment to ending the Keynesian-inspired postwar settlement. Tories sympathetic to Keynes were dismissed as “wets”. Despite the manifest failings of “Thatcherism”, Keynes has largely been in cold storage even since.

At the end of the play, Graham seems to be saying that there is an inevitability that we will return to a Keynesian model. Is that true now in Burnham's government?

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At the end of the play, Graham seems to be saying that there is an inevitability that we will return to a Keynesian model. Is that true now in Burnham's government?

I hope so. Whether it is the “privatisation of capitalism” and the power of the bond markets, the unfolding of the “fourth” industrial revolution and the need to create a new “innovation economy”, the challenges of climate change or alleviating gross inequalities, we need the spirit of Keynes.

Capitalism will not find its own way to the best outcomes in the decades ahead. It will need, as the play argues, public action rather than inertia.

Sunbeds cause cancer. It's time for social media to stop pushing the glow

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Sunbeds cause cancer. It's time for social media to stop pushing the glow

Medical experts have become increasingly alarmed by the promotion of sunbed use via platforms such as Instagram and TikTok, overlooking the fact that sunbeds are a significant risk factor for developing skin cancers (“How social media helped make sunbeds dangerous again”, News, last week).

Melanoma is the deadliest form of skin cancer, and rates are rising in the UK. It is the fifth most common cancer in the country (and now the fourth most common for men), with more than 20,000 new cases every year. It causes about 2,600 deaths a year in the UK, or more than seven deaths a day, but nearly nine out of 10 cases are preventable by avoiding UV radiation, which comes from the sun or from sunbeds.

The International Agency for Research on Cancer has placed sunbeds alongside tobacco and asbestos in the highest category of carcinogen. Young skin is particularly vulnerable to the risks; research has shown that a single sunbed use prior to age 35 increases the risk of melanoma by $59\%$ . This is why commercial sunbed use has been banned in countries such as Australia and Brazil, and Ireland's Institute of Public Health has recommended a ban.

Despite this, the sunbed industry and influencers continue to promote their use as a beauty trend, downplaying or ignoring the significant risk of cancer. Online aggressive marketing of sunbeds, often veiled as wellness or beauty advice, is deeply unethical. The disconnect between the messaging and the scientific evidence about UV dangers causes unnecessary risk, contributing to preventable cancer cases.

Another concern is the rising use of tanning peptides, known as Melanotan II, MT-2 or the “Barbie drug”, in nasal sprays and injections, which are commonly promoted and purchased alongside sunbed use. These products are unregulated and have not been tested for safety or quality. They carry significant health risks that remain largely unknown to users. Melanotan II is touted as a quick way to achieve a tan, but it can cause dangerous side effects and there are emerging concerns about its potential links to melanoma.

We strongly urge social media platforms to take greater responsibility in regulating content that promotes unsafe practices like sunbed use. Regulators must also take stronger action against misleading sunbed advertising and social media content promoting harmful behaviours. We await the outcome of the Department of Health & Social Care consultation on under-18s sunbed use this autumn and we welcome a further wider consultation.

Sunbeds have always been dangerous, but the spread of misinformation fueling their use, particularly via social media, is now a serious public health concern that requires urgent attention and action. Susanna Daniels

CEO Melanoma Focus

CEO, Melanoma Focus

Cambridge

health, care, education and the police. The job-rich infrastructure work that could occur in every constituency would range from tackling cracked pavements and potholes to providing cheap heating and cooling in public buildings.

The answer to this, which could also be the hope-inducing big idea that could unite progressive parties in the run-up to the next election, is a “social and green new deal”. This would entail making clear that “good growth in every postcode” means an increase in labour-intensive economic activity aimed at improving the caring sectors in every community, alongside the social and green infrastructure that communities need.

Most ambitiously, and most crucially for tackling climate change and high fossil-fuel energy bills, would be the electrification and improved energy efficiency of all buildings. These programmes would create a huge number of private-sector job and investment opportunities.

This must begin to happen at some scale in the next two years, spread strategically across as many postcodes as possible, so that by the election Labour has a chance of demonstrating what place-based improvements can achieve and of turning hope into tangible results. Colin Hines UK Green New Deal Group Twickenham Middlesex

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Letters

AI has been entering into our lives for the past 30 years, and is the chosen misnomer for codified human intelligence (CHI): the encoding of human knowledge, rules and decision-making into software. This is not the conventional definition of AI, but it provides a useful way of understanding the continuity between earlier software and today's more sophisticated AI systems.

What has changed is the scale. The application of CHI on a global scale is new territory, and it cannot remain almost exclusively in the hands of a small number of big corporations in the US, China or elsewhere.

Regulation of AI across the internet is just not possible. Despots and dictators are already using AI-enabled systems for surveillance, with serious implications for freedom of expression. The challenge is not whether AI can be regulated, but how effective regulation can be made across borders and applied to governments and corporations alike. Fergus Sweeney

Your pro-AI editorial (“The future of labour”, last week), with its trilling over UK tech “unicorns” and its demands that Andy Burnham not miss out on these “epoch-making opportunities”, fell short of answering the question in your title: what will be the future of labour? Something that worries so many people, particularly the young.

Nkechi Simms's powerful account of accessing her care records (“Careless”, Investigation, News. 20 September) shines a light on an important issue that affects thousands of people. Care records represent so much more than personal data, and trying to make sense of your own childhood should never become such a battle.

A duty of care

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A duty of care

Banbridge, County Down

We are pleased Nkechi was inspired by our Better Records Together campaign to pursue access to her records, but we are frustrated and disheartened that doing so led to such a traumatic experience. Sadly, it reflects what we've heard from hundreds of people. Most faced long delays, poor communication and, ultimately, unanswered questions.

Implications of AI

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Implications of AI

This is a systemic problem, and organisations must do better. Providing people with their care records is the law. Records should never arrive late, without warning, or without appropriate support to help navigate difficult details. As the data protection regulator, we've produced new standards to help organisations get this right.

This would require adequate staffing levels in sectors such as

We are calling on every UK local authority and Health and Social Care Northern Ireland to commit to improving care records access, resourcing teams appropriately and implementing our standards so requests are met with care.

Regrettably, Nkechi's story is not an isolated failure. It should be a wake-up call to every organisation holding a child's care records today. By putting that child first now, we can spare years of pain in the future. Paul Arnold CEO, The Information Commission's Office Manchester

Humanitas, challenging “the cult of AI”. The truly shocking question she was asked at a Microsoft panel, “Is there anything unique or special about human beings?”, reflects the appalling state we have reached in our thinking about who we are.

Manchester City were beautiful to watch on the pitch, but they have been caught cheating (“Without

Away days for City fans?

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Away days for City fans?

Does the fact that we have such dreadful world leaders (Trump, Putin, etc); predators like Elon Musk controlling so much social media; and evidence of the damage we are wreaking on the planet, contribute to such a nihilistic assessment?

integrity, without honesty, it's not a sport at all", Sport, last week). Demotion to the League Two for next season, together with a large points deduction for the remainder of this season (plus a huge fine), would be my suggested penalty.

How necessary, then, that a voice like the Pope's should be heard, calling on the imaginative capacity that we have within us to recognise the beauty of humanity and to act upon it. Can we hope that our new prime minister, with a degree in English literature, will call upon that faculty of imagination to find more truthful answers to our problems? Joe Unsworth

Newcastle upon Tyne

On the upside, avid away supporters would have the joy of travelling to every ground in the English Football League as the club worked its way back to the top.

Matthew Hooberman

Bruton, Somerset

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Ham tomorrow

Hanif Kureishi recalls a meal in Sicily made with “Tesco’s Finest clotted cream, which Isabella [his wife] had, absurdly, carried from London in her hand luggage” (“Sicily, or how I learned to stop worrying and enjoy lunch”, New Review, last week). It doesn’t strike me as absurd: my wife and I once packed some Waitrose Parma ham for a train journey from London to Italy – and ate it while travelling through Parma.

Maurice Waite

Appleton, Oxfordshire

Imaginative solution

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Imaginative solution

FIVE GO TO RAF FAIRFORD

What a timely review (“The Pope vs the cult of AI”, New Review, 20 September) by Naomi Alderman of Pope Leo’s encyclical, Magnifica

SAF

For the record

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For the record

\- In our O, really? quiz last week (Magazine, page 46) question three asked readers: “which 3D shape has only one surface?” One correct answer is “a solid sphere”, but there are infinitely more possible 3D shapes with only one surface, and thus a variety of different answers.

  • In a leader (“Take more care”, 20 September, page 3) we said that research into the life prospects of care-experienced people had been carried out by the Nuffield Trust. The findings were in fact the work of the Nuffield Foundation, a separate organisation.
  • We welcome feedback from readers.

Observers needed

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Observers needed

Write to us

Letters, which may be edited, should include a full name, telephone number and postal address.

Send to:

Email letters@observer.co.uk (please insert Letters to the Editor in the subject field). Or write to us: Letters to the Editor

The Observer, 22 Berners Street, London W1T 3LP

To be received by noon on Thursday.

● To request a correction or make a complaint please write to readers@observer.co.uk

Obituary

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Peter Prince

Writer who ‘turned convention upside down’ and pre-empted Christopher Nolan with BBC Oppenheimer drama

D

Peter Prince wrote the screenplay for The Hit (1984), which Quentin Tarantino says is one of his favourite films. Caroline Forbes uring the final

televised debate

of the 1980 US

presidential

election, Jimmy

Carter was felt to

have committed a gaffe when he said he had asked his 13-year-old daughter's opinion of the most important issue at stake and she replied "control of nuclear arms". With the Cold War heating up, Americans preferred the more hawkish Ronald Reagan.

The next evening, the BBC began a seven-part drama, made with WGBH, a public radio station in Boston, that looked at the dawn of the nuclear age. Forty-three years before Christopher Nolan's film of the same name, Oppenheimer was a highly regarded biography of the father of the atomic bomb. Michael Billington described it in the New York Times as “the ultimate account of the scientist dealing with matters of private conscience and public morality”.

It was produced by Peter Goodchild, who worked for the BBC's science unit and had been editor of Horizon, and given its dramatic edge in a dialogue-heavy script by Peter Prince, who had been a prize-winning novelist at the first attempt before turning his talent to television plays, several of them directed by a young Stephen Frears.

Prince and Goodchild spent weeks in America researching the scientist, speaking to his academic peers, including Edward Teller, who would be played by David Suchet and who gave a passionate defence of the need for nuclear weapons. They also interviewed members of Oppenheimer's family to get an accurate picture of a complicated man.

The portrayal was not always flattering but it was felt to be balanced on both the man and the subject, presenting the arguments as they were made at the time rather than playing to a modern audience's views. Prince told Variety in 2023 that the actor Sam Waterston had captured J Robert Oppenheimer's complexity. "He was charming, conflicted and driven," he said. The series won three Baftas and Prince was nominated for an Emmy.

Peter Alan Prince was born in Bromley, Kent, in 1942, the son of a war correspondent for the Times who didn't see his son – “the little chap" as John Prince noted in his diary – until he was 18 months old, and was soon off again to cover D-day.

After Dulwich College in south London, Prince intended to study at the London School of Economics until his mother saw an advertisement for a scholarship that offered places at the University of Pennsylvania. He majored in history there, developing a love of American football and civil war battlefields, then took an MA at Columbia University before returning to Britain with an American wife, Beth.

In 1966 he went to Cambridge to write a PhD on the history of Sunday newspapers, particularly The Observer, but left without finishing it. He then worked

as a supervisor at an adventure playground in south London, which inspired him to write his first novel, Play Things, a comedy about the battles between an idealistic playleader and the criminal activities of the children in his care. Prince later admitted it was “a betrayal of the truth” but it received glowing reviews from the likes of Nina Bawden and JG Farrell.

It was while visiting his in-laws in New York in 1973 that Prince learned he had won the Somerset Maugham award for young novelists (Martin Amis and

His final novel was praised for its flamboyant use of filthy 18th-century slang

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His final novel was praised for its flamboyant use of filthy 18th-century slang

Ian McEwan were the next two recipients) and Beth was pregnant. Their daughter Rosa is a political journalist. Beth and he divorced in 1981 and he married Linda Romano, a television producer, in 1987.

The book's success encouraged him into screenwriting. He adapted Play Things for the BBC, which was directed by Frears and starred Jonathan Pryce and Nigel Hawthorne. He also worked with Frears on the TV plays Early Struggles and Last Summer, a drama about car thieves with Richard Beckinsale that one reviewer called “a miniature classic”. In 1975, he wrote The Floater, a courtroom comedy for the BBC’s Play for Today series that was favourably compared to John Mortimer’s Rumpole tales.

While he continued to write novels, his heart may have been with the screen. Susan Hill, reviewing the novel Agents of a Foreign Power (1977), called him “an original who writes as sharply as always” but said he was much better with pictures. John Sutherland, on Prince’s 1990 book, Death of a Soap Queen, said its “sharp turns” and subject matter would have made it ideal for television. Prince adapted his 1983 novel, The Good Father, as a film directed by Mike Newell, featuring Anthony Hopkins and Harriet Walter. His final novel, Adam Runaway (2005), was praised for its flamboyant use of filthy 18th-century slang.

In 1980, he worked again with Frears on a stage play for the RSC called Television Times. Four years later, they collaborated on a feature film, The Hit, about a botched contract killing, starring Terence Stamp and Tim Roth. Quentin Tarantino has called it one of his favourites, while Wes Anderson said it was the fifth best British film ever made, after ones by Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger, David Lean, Alfred Hitchcock and Carol Reed.

Frears praised his originality. "He was a clever, thoughtful man who liked to turn convention upside down," he said. "He was also very funny and wrote good jokes. Some of those television plays we did together got a large audience and deserve to be repeated." Patrick Kidd

Peter Prince, novelist and screenwriter, was born on 10 May 1942, and died on 22 September 2026, aged 84

My week

Bateleur eagle

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Bateleur eagle

There's only one form of true flight and I am its only true mistress. True flight is not about sordid flapping or,

worse, humans' deafening engines. True flight is the perfect glide: when I travel for 300 miles in a day seldom more than 30 metres (100 feet) above the ground while expending as much energy as a human does lying on a sofa.

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Monday

I am the glide: the glide is me. My wings are almost three times as wide as my body is long. And look: no tail. Or rather not one that you'd notice; my bright red feet stick out beyond it. This tailless configuration cuts down on drag to a massive extent, and that's what makes possible the extreme gliding life. All it takes to

live it is immense skill acquired over many hard years.

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Tuesday

Look at the young ones, my son, say, or my younger daughter. They look nothing like me. For a start they have tails – can't live without them, not yet. They're like young humans with stabilisers on their bikes: they need to acquire the basic skills and, crucially, their confidence in them before they fly like grownups. We take up to eight years to reach maturity, longer than most birds of prey. We have more to learn.

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Wednesday

How do we steer without a tail? By banking, like a human on a bicycle. How do we maintain balance and control? Skill, experience and the

dihedral: the w we hold our wings in a shallow V. That

conformation is optimal for stability – excuse the technical language, but technique is my obsession, for without it I die. Should I wobble in unstable air, the dihedral makes for a swift return to straight, level flight.

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Thursday

Vultures can out-soar us, circling in thermals to gain height until they're out of sight. Our edge comes from the perfect glide at low level

How do we maintain balance and control? Skill, experience and the dihedral – and low level means we're always first. Today it was a dying hippo and, as always, I had it to myself... at least for a while. I can't rip a hippo

open like a hyena does, but the eyes were mine. As usual.

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Friday

Not that I restrict myself to dead stuff: I catch mammals as big as duiker antelopes, birds as big as a guinea fowl and, today, a hefty little monitor lizard. Eat and back to the sky: nine hours on the wing, and scarcely a flap all day.

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Saturday

Bateleur is French for street performer. We got the name for our tumbling, courtship displays:

somersaulting, barrel-rolling, always a great moment. On other days we look more like tightrope walkers as we stroll across the skies, wings extended, tips flipped up and the occasional instantly corrected wobble. The first part of our scientific name is Terathopius: “marvellous face” in Greek. In all modesty, I have to accept they got that one right. Marvels, we are. The air is my sofa.

Lifespan Maybe 25 years

Eating habits Those who live and die beneath us

Hobbies Aerodynamics

Sexual preferences Other tumblers of the airways

As told to Simon Barnes

Profile

Claudia Winkleman

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Claudia Winkleman

The Traitors host says she's ‘too thick’ to be a contestant. Friends beg to differ, writes Lily Isaacs

The 'Claudia Winkleiman' returned to screens across the country for the new season of The Celebrity Traitors, she claimed she'd never be able to participate in the show herself. "I'm too thick... I'm just being honest," she said. "I would just be too awful at it."

According to those who know her, this humility is typical of the woman with TV's most famous fringe.

“Claudia’s very bright,” said her good friend Kirsty Young, the former host of Desert Island Discs. “She never really wants to talk about the work; she wants it to be effortless. But it takes effort and ambition to do what she does. It is a beautiful illusion that she just walks on there and does that... she’s a grafter and she puts her mind to it.”

Winkleman has been on and off television since her early 20s when she was as a pundit on daytime television, giving dating advice and making even serious hosts dissolve into fits of laughter. She had her big break in 2014, when she began co-hosting Strictly Come Dancing with Tess Daly. They were prime-time's first female presenting duo.

"It might not be brain surgery," Young said, "but there's not that many people who can do what Claudia does... Those are rare talents, people who can be the beating heart of those big shows."

Winkleman was born in 1972 to the journalist Eve Pollard and Barry Winkleman, a writer and literary publisher. She grew up in Hampstead, London.

Pollard learned she was pregnant with Winkleman when she was woman's editor of The Observer magazine. In those days the paper didn't offer maternity leave, so she moved to the Sunday Mirror, where they'd never heard of a

woman editor with a baby. "We thought it might be interesting," she remembered the paper's boss saying.

Pollard and Winkleman divorced when Claudia was three, leaving her an only child, though she acquired a half-sister when Winkleman remarried and a half-brother when Pollard married newspaper editor Nicholas Lloyd. She has called her mother and father “incredible, loving, wonderful parents who never wanted me to be anything other than who I am”.

She lived mostly with Pollard, the daughter of Holocaust survivors who always kept a suitcase in the hall in case they needed to make a quick escape.

Winkleman said her mother was a “brilliant feminist”. From her, she learned grit and stamina. She recalls a memorable rebuttal when she asked for a Barbie doll: “Don’t be ridiculous. That’s not what you’re supposed to look like.”

Winkleman's father, Barry, instilled in her a lifelong love of art. Every weekend he took her to the National Gallery, where he made a rule that they could only look at one painting. "It made me thirsty and hungry for art," she said.

She took art history at A-level, thinking it would be a good way to “wear fishnets, smoke fags and hang out with boys”, but fell in love with the subject, which she went on to study at Cambridge, where she also grew to love fashion and began to shape her signature bronzed and kohl-eyed look.

She was so dedicated to tanning, she said, that she filled her bedroom with a rented

Claudia

Winkleman

Born 1972

Alma mater

Cambridge

Work 30 years

of TV presenting

Family Married

to Kris Thykier,

three children

sunbed, and slept on the floor. Winkleman has since traded sunbeds for fake tan. Young said that in 20 years, she'd "rarely seen" her friend's natural skin colour. "She's mad for the tan." Winkleman is just as dedicated to art, though she keeps that more under wraps. Insiders at the British Museum, where Winkleman is now a trustee, said they were surprised by how involved the TV host wanted to be. The director, Nicholas Cullinan, said Winkleman had "a real passion for celebrating the work

'Those are rare talents, people who can be the beating heart of a big show'

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'Those are rare talents, people who can be the beating heart of a big show'

of the museum staff. She helped launch our annual staff awards and has been closely involved."

Asked if she'd like to host an art show, Winkleman worried she would annoy viewers who know her as “the orange girl on Strictly”. “I’m not good enough. I wanted to, but I don’t want to give too many versions of me.”

Many versions of her have flourished. When then BBC One controller Danny Cohen gave Winkleman the Strictly gig, he told her: "Your fringe is too long. We all wanted to be a goth, right? But we grew out of it." Winkleman did the first show with a side

parting and a pink dress. "The worst of it was that the makeup was all natural. Awful," she said.

Her stylist, Sinead McKeefry, said that when she started working with Winkleman, she was wearing wrap dresses because “that’s how female presenters were meant to look”.

But viewers didn't need a toned-down Winkleman in order to love

Illustration by Andy Bunday

her. Her evolution in style has mirrored her confidence in herself – cementing her punky outfits, dark eyeliner and signature fringe in television history.

“Claudia is a stunning example of how to live your best life,” McKeefry said. “She doesn’t take herself too seriously. She’s taught me not to be too precious.” She has learned from Winkleman too that you can be serious about your job, but have fun while doing it.

W

inkleman quit

Strictly, with Daly, in 2025, saying: "It's best to leave a party before you're fully ready." The Traitors had come calling in 2022, quickly becoming the BBC's most successful TV show, with last year's celebrity final attracting 13 million viewers. Her brief interlude hosting The Claudia Winkleman Show merely affirmed her humanity. The show received less than effusive reviews and was cancelled after seven episodes. Winkleman said she had been "too nervous to enjoy it".

Young says people don't realise how funny Winkleman is. "She has the timing and the instinct of any properly funny person. She gets to the line quickly and she's not afraid to say it if she thinks it will get a laugh. However outrageous."

Young said she often told Winkleman: "You stand next to these men and you're laughing and applauding their lines but you're funnier than any of them, and it really pisses me off."

She's happy her friend has reached a stage where “people know she's the star”, but said Winkleman wouldn't wish for more fame. She “lives and breathes for her family”.

Winkleman married film producer Kris Thykier in 2000. "When I think of Claudia," Young said, "I think of her with her kids and her husband in her kitchen, with her dog."

She has three children with Thykier. In 2014, the Halloween costume her middle child, Matilda, was wearing caught fire at a neighbour's house. The then eight-year-old was badly burned.

"We couldn't put her out," Winkleman said at the time. "Her tights had melted into her skin."

Winkleman had kept her private life private, but she took to TV screens in a plea for laws on the flammability of children's costumes to change. Flammability testing has been obligatory since 2015.

Winkleman received an OBE in 2025, and this week's premiere of The Celebrity Traitors was the most viewed debut episode of any series on British television, ever. But Young said that even as Winkleman has the world at her feet, she keeps her dreams closer to home. "I know what she'd wish: that all her kids are healthy and happy," she said.

AI's monster debt problem could cause another crash, warns Enron short seller

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AI's monster debt problem could cause another crash, warns Enron short seller

Jim Chanos is betting against firms he calls highly leveraged data centre landlords. But the ‘creative accounting’ of key players is an even bigger concern, he tells Barney Macintyre

The short seller who famously predicted and profited from the collapse in 2001 of the energy trader Enron has said that the increasing use of debt to build AI infrastructure could become a systemic risk to the financial system by 2028.

Jim Chanos, whose firm has placed bets against Tesla, Wirecard and the Chinese property sector, said in an interview with The Observer that he was betting against “most of the neoclouds” – smaller companies that let out AI computing capacity – because they are “valued as tech growth stocks when, in fact, they’re highly leveraged landlords”.

Many neoclouds are former bitcoin mining companies that have borrowed heavily to turn to the business of buying AI chips and land for data centres, before renting the computational power out to firms such as OpenAI. Neoclouds including CoreWeave, Nebius and TeraWulf have all become targets for short sellers betting that demand for the assets they lease will fall.

Chanos isn't the only contrarian betting against AI. Michael Burry, the investor played by Christian Bale in film The Big Short, this week said he was “moving timelines up” with his short positions against AI behemoths Nvidia and Palantir.

More august institutions are also worried about the levels of debt now supporting the data centre build-out, and cosiness between the key players. This week the Bank of England warned of the risks of a “sharp correction” owing to the “rapid increase in artificial-intelligence-related debt issuance”. The co-head of credit at the private equity giant KKR said he doesn’t “think enough people are talking about the potential volatility if AI growth slows”.

People have been calling it a bubble since 2023, but investment in the AI trade is roaring. Micron, one of the compute companies Burry is shorting, has posted results showing quarterly revenues up 379% year on year.

But the costs are staggering. The consultancy Bain & Company estimates annual spending on AI infrastructure and its upkeep could reach \$1.5tn (£1.14tn) by 2031. Assuming this outlay amounts to about a quarter of sales, the market will need to reach \$6tn annually. And if that revenue fails to materialise? The share of US households with a paid AI subscription is only 2.2%, according to PNC. To paraphrase the activist investor Bill Ackman ahead of the 2008 crash: who is holding the bag this time?

Singularity or circularity?

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Singularity or circularity?

A web of reciprocal deals between companies at the heart of the AI trade has given rise to accusations of “circular” and “vendor” financing – when a seller lends money directly to a buyer of its products.

Anthropic exhibits a co-dependent relationship with SpaceX. It generates a chunk of revenue from coding services delivered to Cursor, an AI-powered code editor owned by Elon Musk's company, while its single largest operating cost is a \$1.25bn per month deal for access to SpaceX's Colossus 1 data centre in Tennessee.

Details from Anthropic's IPO prospectus, leaked last week, failed to ease concerns that frontier labs rely on patronage. It shows 47% of its sales to customers came through cloud partners Amazon and Google. Chip supplier Broadcom has agreed to lend Anthropic up to \$42bn to finance infrastructure spending. The filing states “potential conflicts of interest” could arise from the deal that affect the lab’s ability to access compute.

Ara Kharazian, lead economist at Ramp, said: “AI has proven its value to highly technical companies that use it heavily... The problem is 1% of firms can’t sustainably drive these growth projections. Neither OpenAI nor Anthropic have made meaningful inroads with non-tech businesses.”

At the centre of this web is Nvidia which Chanos claims has “almost a monopoly-like vice grip on this boom”. He points to data that shows Nvidia made more than \$190bn in profits in the past 12 months, while at the same time ploughing \$83bn into “the companies that are their customers”. The company released a memo rebutting accusations of circular financing.

'The problem is that 1% of firms can't sustainably drive these growth predictions'

Ara Kharazian

Nvidia's CEO

Jensen Huang,

above, at its

2025 GTC AI

conference in

California. Inset:

Jim Chanos.

Josh Edelson/AFP

via Getty Images

"If something was to happen... Meta will [make the payments], but

A recent study by economists at the Bank for International Settlements found that between 2021 and 2025, nearly a third of AI firms' investment deals (by deal value) involved a target that was also an AI company.

A shadow economy?

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A shadow economy?

Chanos refers to these as “Enron-like structures”, pointing to the example of a \$28bn deal to finance the 2GW Hyperion data centre in Louisiana. Meta and private credit firm Blue Owl set up a separate company to own the centre and borrow the cash. Meta promised to pay rent and cover any shortfall.

Anthropic and OpenAI have become such a furnace for burning cash that their funders – Google, Amazon, Meta and Oracle – are posting smaller returns. And they are finding creative ways to take off that funding from their balance sheets. The Financial Times estimates in the past year big tech has erased \$300bn of AI exposure from their financial statements through “residual value guarantees”.

Circular dealing among AI giants

\*Neoclouds

systemic, but at the rate it's going, it probably will be by 2028."

they'll also take the data centre, and Blue Owl will be wiped out," said Gil Luria, head of technology research at DA Davidson. "That's the weak link."

This week Amazon launched a vehicle that would offload about \$8bn of advanced Nvidia chips to external investors to bolster its balance sheet. "One should always ask: if this is such a great business proposition, why are you trying to not show investors the numbers?" said Chanos.

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The debt

AI's hunger for capital has been transforming debt markets since at least the beginning of 2025. Hyperscalers are issuing more corporate bonds, which investors buy as a way of lending money to a company in return for interest payments. This is affecting investor demand for the bonds of smaller companies – and even countries.

"It's really quite unprecedented," said Chanos. "The only thing we found that was bigger was the Chinese real estate bubble from 2010 to 2020. But that was an entire economic model based on debt. [The risk] is not

Last week Japan's SoftBank raised more than \$11bn in debt to finance investment in OpenAI – the largest junk bond sale in history. Goldman Sachs says investors have bought nearly \$200bn worth of hyperscaler debt so far this year. Kevin Warsh, chair of the US Federal Reserve, has noted that these companies are now directly competing for capital with a \$31tn market for US Treasuries.

“Using debt to finance speculative investments is always a bad idea,” said Luria. “It’s never worked out, and it’s not going to work out this time.”

The bag holders

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The bag holders

None of this will matter if AI can prove its profitability. But one estimate by the economist Hanno Lustig suggests total data-centre revenue needs to grow at roughly 45% per year for seven years to keep up with expenditure. If that doesn't happen, hyperscalers may be partially insulated. "If OpenAI as a company doesn't succeed and Nvidia ends up owning those data centres, it can just provide that to another model company," explained Luria.

Yet Nvidia is clearly getting prepared for all eventualities. The company has in the past month held talks with insurance companies about products that would provide cover on loans to neoclouds. It's not a proposition that the cautious folks at Berkshire Hathaway seem likely to jump at.

What's the difference between a printer company and a global pioneer of quantum computing?

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What's the difference between a printer company and a global pioneer of quantum computing?

There isn't one, according to official data, and this leaves UK policymakers trying to build an industrial strategy blind to our valuable frontier firms

UK productivity has, even with recent revisions, been pretty dire in the past two decades. But one area where productivity

is booming is the invention of political phrases to respond to it. “Reindustrialisation” joins a list including “rebalancing”, “march of the makers” and “levelling up” that are no doubt politically expedient but more questionable in substance.

We're in this position because the part of the economy that we need to nurture isn't to be found in our national statistics. This isn't because of the quality of what is produced – although that is no doubt a challenge. It's because we don't even measure it.

If the economy is going to grow at anything like the rate we need, that expansion will be delivered by companies at the cutting edge of industry. Firms working in areas such as AI, biotech and quantum computing will create the inventions and innovations that will push our economy on. These frontier firms are the most productive part of the economy. On average, each of their employees produces 60% more than those in non-frontier companies, and they outstrip every other sector in our industrial mix. Plus they have a broader impact on other parts of the economy.

Because they sell around the world, they bring money into the UK. This puts cash in the pockets of workers, who subsequently spend it on high streets. New research from The Data City, which classifies frontier companies using the language businesses use to describe themselves, suggests the multiplier effect is substantial. Areas of the UK with the most cutting-edge companies also have more jobs in cafes, bars and shops.

Government ministers have in the past claimed that jobs created in cutting-edge companies have limited relevance for the “everyday economy”. That “ordinary” workers don’t feel any gain from these firms. The data shows the opposite. The frontier leads the rest. It’s important therefore that we can measure it, understand it, and assess how it is doing. Investors know the value

Median worker output

2025 figures of these firms. Frontier companies make up about 3% of all businesses, but have accounted for 41% of all equity deals and 56% of all the money invested via these deals since the start of 2025.

Frontier companies as share of all businesses

But here's the problem: you can't see these sectors in official data because there isn't a definition for them. The UK's standard industrial classification system was designed in the 1940s for an economy of factories, farms and department stores. This means the UK's latest unicorn company – Fractile, builder of what it says is the world's fastest AI chip – sits in the same category as IT support firms. Oxford Ionics, a world-leading quantum computing business, is classified with computer printer manufacturers.

This leaves policymakers flying blind. The monetary policy committee sets interest rates without knowing how the frontier is performing; the Office for Budget Responsibility makes its growth forecasts without knowing the trajectory of these companies; and the Department for Business and Trade has itself admitted that the SIC system “does not adequately cover many of the sectors” it is trying to support.

The result is catchy words rather than clear policy prescriptions for our economic malaise. It is unclear (perhaps deliberately so) which sectors reindustrialisation actually covers, but even were it more explicit, politicians still wouldn't be able to measure them – and you cannot build an industrial strategy around sectors you cannot measure.

So we're left grappling for answers as to why wages in real terms have barely grown over the past two decades, and why people are turning to populism at the ballot box. A policy for supporting better statistics is never going to get hearts racing. But if we are to find our way out of the economic wilderness it is exactly where we need to start. It's great to read about the frontier in news stories in The Observer, but we need to see it in statistical readouts of the economy, too.

Paul Swinney is chief economist at The Data City

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Thought we had bond problems? For beleaguered France, 'le spread' is only going to get worse

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Thought we had bond problems? For beleaguered France, 'le spread' is only going to get worse

ANALYSIS

Ben

Zaranko

Economics editor

You could be forgiven for not noticing, given the relentless torrent of other news, but the bond market has had another bumpy week.

Long-term borrowing costs for the UK government hit 6% last Thursday

– a threshold last breached in 1998 – before falling back. US government borrowing costs rose to their highest level since 2002. Yet it was France that found itself in the spotlight, amid mounting investor concern over political turmoil in the eurozone’s second-largest economy.

Yields on France's 10-year bonds – the return investors demand to lend to the government – rose above $4.9\%$ on Thursday, their highest since 2002. This was part of a global bond rout, triggered by a rising oil price as reports indicated that the US is sending a third aircraft carrier to the Gulf region, and unexpectedly high European inflation, but France was singled out.

The premium investors demand to buy French 10-year bonds over safer German equivalents – often termed “le spread” – reached 1.5 percentage points on Friday. That’s the widest gap since 2011, during the worst of the eurozone crisis, when a bond market spiral eventually forced an intervention from the European Central Bank.

"It is logical for markets to go

Investors also worry that whoever wins next year's presidential election in France will make matters worse

after the weakest link, and we have seen a sharp widening in French spreads," said Mohit Kumar, chief European economist at Jefferies.

French finance minister Roland Lescure made reference to rising interest rates as he presented the details of the government's budget for 2027, which includes €43bn of spending cuts and reduced tax breaks. His government aims to reduce its budget deficit to around $5\%$ of GDP in 2027, against $6.5\%$ under unchanged policy, and down from $5.4\%$ in 2026.

"To reduce the spread between France and its main European partners, it's a question of credibility, a question of confidence," Lescure said last Thursday, adding, “we are capable of doing it”. The budget proposal includes savings from sensitive areas such as pensions, healthcare, sick leave and public sector wages. The country’s fiscal watchdog described it as “optimistic”. Students and public sector employees staged protests across France last week, raising the prospect that the budget will fail to make it through parliament.

Investors also worry that things will get worse whoever wins next year's presidential election: both the far left and far right, in the form of Jean-Luc Mélenchon and Marine Le Pen, are riding high in the polls.

Looking beyond France's particular challenges, the rising cost of energy has been a key driver of

Firefighters protest in Paris last week as public sector workers strike before the budget. Thomas Samson/AFP, Getty

higher borrowing costs this year. Higher oil and gas prices add to inflationary pressure – especially in European economies that rely heavily on energy imports – and make central bank rate hikes more likely, which in turn leads to higher bond yields. In recent weeks, US threats of a diesel export ban and the possibility that Houthi strikes will disrupt shipping through the Red Sea have contributed to rising European fuel prices.

Concerns about energy prices add to, and interact with, concerns about stubbornly high government borrowing. France's level is troublesome but far from unique.

“We do not see any major economy taking steps to control deficits over the next 12 months,” said Kumar at Jefferies. “With 10 elections in Europe next year, our view is that the inflation problem will translate into a deficit problem, as most countries would be inclined to provide help for the cost of living due to higher oil and food prices.”

For Andy Burnham and the chancellor, John Healey, a key aim of this month's budget will be to navigate the pressure to provide households with “breathing space” without triggering a reaction that leaves the UK competing with France for the role of bond market problem child.

G7 bows to US diesel demands with ‘substantial’ release in 20 days

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G7 bows to US diesel demands with ‘substantial’ release in 20 days

Jeevan Vasagar

Climate editor

Leaders of the G7 countries have agreed to release 100m barrels of diesel and crude oil from strategic reserves and not to restrict exports following US pressure to bring down pump prices.

The plan will include a “substantial” release of diesel within the first 20 days – bringing some welcome relief. Consumers and businesses in the UK are paying £20m more a day for diesel than they were before the Middle East war broke out, based on the average increase over the months since the conflict began, according to figures shared exclusively with The Observer.

The cost of filling up has now risen by £20.40 per visit to the pump for car drivers and by £327.51 per visit for lorries, according to analysis by the Transport & Environment UK thinktank.

European countries came under pressure to release more diesel, with the US treasury secretary Scott Bessent calling on Europe to “accelerate delivery on existing commitments and make additional supply available”.

The head of the International Energy Agency, Fatih Birol, told reporters earlier in the week that most European nations had yet to draw down the stocks of crude and refined oil products they had committed to in a coordinated release agreed in March.

Prices were driven upwards by the threat of a US export ban in addition to war-related disruption, threatening a fuel that is essential for agriculture and road transport. An export ban by Russia, the second biggest global supplier after the US, has also restricted the availability of diesel.

Ukrainian airstrikes on Russian refineries mean that even if that ban is lifted, supplies will not come back on stream soon.

Diesel prices reached 200.01p a litre on UK forecourts this week, according to the RAC, surpassing the previous high of 199.09p reached in June 2022 in nominal terms. Adjusted for inflation, the 2022 price would be above 230p now.

The price rise has added a total of £3.4bn to UK consumer and business costs since the US and Israeli attacks on Iran in late February, according to calculations by Transport & Environment UK. The analysis does not include the latest increase.

Some sectors are harder hit than others by the diesel price rise. Farmers in Britain, for example, are shielded because they pay a lower rate of tax on agricultural “red diesel”.

The rate on red diesel, which is dyed to distinguish it from the more expensive kind, was cut to 6.48p a litre in May; other consumers pay tax at 52.95p a litre.

Diesel has climbed above £2 per litre at the pump, adding a total of £3.4bn to UK consumer and business costs.

Bus fleets in the UK are rapidly electrifying, with Coventry the first city to run an all-electric bus service and London aiming for complete electrification by 2034. But Britain lags behind European countries such as Sweden and the Netherlands in electrifying lorries.

Tim Dexter from Transport & Environment UK said: “A lot of the logistics sector is small to medium businesses that run off wafer-thin margins, 2% margins. Price rises like this have a huge implication. You have to decide whether to take losses or pass them on to the businesses that are your consumers.”

Dexter urged the government to prioritise shifting to electric cars and lorries. He said: “Doing so will insulate the country from volatile international fossil fuel markets and better protect the cost of living.”

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[0800 715 137 stannah.com | The minutes | Deals and earnings] Banks take £18bn hit over fears of new tax

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[0800 715 137 stannah.com | The minutes | Deals and earnings] Banks take £18bn hit over fears of new tax

The UK's four largest banks – Barclays, HSBC, Lloyds and NatWest – took a hit this week when £18bn was wiped from the value of their stocks. Speculation that John Healey will levy new taxes on the sector intensified after key lenders were summoned to the Treasury for talks, as the chancellor prepares for his first budget on 28 October. The Treasury has not revealed details of the summit, reported to be taking place on Tuesday. Trade associations and investors are divided on what higher taxes would mean for the UK's financial sector. The Trades Union Congress argues a levy on British bank profits could redirect cash to cost-of-living support, while finance chiefs warn a tax raid would threaten Britain's position as a global banking hub and undermine institutions' ability to lend to growing companies.

The Observer business matrix

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The Observer business matrix

year on record for violent crypto attacks, with a higher rate of home invasions, kidnappings and hostage situations. Recovering crypto assets once they have been transferred is extremely difficult. Crimestoppers is offering a £10,000 reward for new information on the Solihull attack.

Panicked investors find haven in Germany

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Panicked investors find haven in Germany

Investors flocked to Germany and Switzerland this week in pursuit of a safe haven from market turmoil. As French government borrowing costs jumped to multi-decade highs (see page 41), German borrowing costs fell. Germany has historically kept a tighter lid on its borrowing, in part due to its constitutional “debt brake”, and is seen as a safer bet than its neighbour. Swiss borrowing costs also fell, and the value of the Swiss franc rose, fuelled by similar dynamics. “When debt risk in the Eurozone spikes up, the franc is always the preferred haven,” said Francesco Pesole, a currency strategist at ING.

Sales boost for Greggs but job cuts loom

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Sales boost for Greggs but job cuts loom

Greggs reported a 7.7% increase in total sales during the third quarter of 2026, and a 3.4% increase in like-for-like sales. The firm credited better weather with supporting trading conditions in August and September, and said that iced drinks – including new matcha and cherry lemonade flavours – had proved a hit with customers. The news for Greggs workers is less positive: the chain has announced plans to restructure its manufacturing operation, which is expected to lead to 740 job losses and the closure of several sites. Roisin Currie, chief executive of the bakery, warned that market conditions were “challenging” and that higher oil prices would feed through to distribution costs.

[Hot commodity] UK soaks up savings with plug-in solar

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[Hot commodity] UK soaks up savings with plug-in solar

British households are snapping up plug-in solar panels in pursuit of savings on their bills, as gas and electricity prices continue to rise. The government legalised plug-in solar panels at the end of August. The kits, which do not require professional installation, can each produce up to 800W of power, or as much as 20% of an average home's electricity use. Unused electricity can be sent back to the grid. The average customer can save as much as £150 per year, according to Octopus Energy, which reported that demand for plug-in solar has been so strong in the past month that it has had to restock twice.

New car market keeps its foot on the gas

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New car market keeps its foot on the gas

The UK's new-car market continues to perform strongly, posting its 10th consecutive month of growth in September, according to provisional data from the Society of Motor Manufacturers and Traders. New car registrations for the month were $12\%$ higher than a year earlier. Robert Wood and Elliot Jordan-Doak, economists at Pantheon Macroeconomics, wrote that "another strong gain in private car registrations shows that consumers remain sufficiently confident to continue spending through the energy price shock". Battery electric vehicles hit a market share of $28.3\%$ – a strong performance, but still below the legislated target of $33\%$ under the government's zero-emissions vehicle mandate. The Jaecoo 7, nicknamed the "Temu Range Rover", was again the most popular new car in September, highlighting the UK's enthusiasm for competitively priced Chinese models.

[Risk radar] Rise in violent crypto attacks on investors

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[Risk radar] Rise in violent crypto attacks on investors

Violent thefts known as “wrench attacks” that target cryptocurrency investors are on the rise. As the

The coming week...

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The coming week...

Companies

Monday: Meta, X, TikTok challenge Ofcom in high court. Tuesday: FCA annual public meeting. Thursday: Tesco results, PepsiCo results.

● Economic data/reports

Monday: New car registration monthly data.

Wednesday: IMF managing director Kristalina Georgieva speech in Thailand. Thursday: speeches from Bank of England governor Andrew Bailey, chief economist Huw Pill, deputy governor for monetary policy Clare Lombardelli and committee member Megan Greene.

value of crypto coins increases, reports of robberies to seize digital assets by force have spread across the US, UK and France, where there have been the largest number of attacks so far. A recent BBC report detailed a brutal break-in and attack of a businessman in the West Midlands town of Solihull. Thieves threatened to kill his unborn child unless he surrendered his digital wallet. Research group Chainalysis found that \$30m (£23m) was stolen in the year to June. It estimates that 2026 is likely to become the worst

[Movers and shakers] Raise interest rates, says Bank economist

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[Movers and shakers] Raise interest rates, says Bank economist

Catherine Mann, below, the American economist and Bank of England rate setter, said last week that the central bank needs to raise interest rates to maintain credibility with markets. At the last two meetings of the Bank's monetary policy committee, she

has dissented from the majority decision to hold rates constant, voting for a 0.25% increase in each case. Mann, viewed as something of an inflation “hawk”, argued that financial conditions are too loose to contain the inflationary pressure injected by higher energy prices, and that policymakers cannot rely on financial markets to do their job for them. A rise in oil and gas prices could push other decision-makers towards Mann’s position the next time the committee meets on 5 November.

Vital statistics

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Vital statistics

8.9m

Viewers for the opening episode of series 2 of The Celebrity Traitors, breaking previous Traitors viewing records. The audience will grow further once on-demand viewers are counted.

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£22m

Boost to Scotland's economy from filming of the Traitors franchise. The show's UK, US and celebrity seasons bolstered the local economy, providing a surge of production jobs. The fourth series of The Traitors UK, which concluded in late January this year, also included a retail push, with branded products generating revenues of £2m.

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£2.5bn

Amount paid out in tax relief to creative industries in 2024-25, according to the latest government data. Of that, £702m related to film and £936m to high-end TV. The relief allows qualifying companies to reduce their tax bill. Film and TV production companies are internationally footloose, and the relief aims to attract them to Britain.

23k

Growth in the number of people working in film, TV, radio and music between 2024 and 2025, according to newly released government estimates. This equates to an 11.1% increase, compared with 1.1% for the economy as a whole.

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£4bn

Total independent TV sector revenues in the UK reached £3.8bn in 2025, up 4% from the previous year. The annual census of the sector by Pact, a trade body, shows that international TV revenue grew by 16% to £1.6bn, offsetting a slight drop in domestic earnings.

drop in domestic takings.

New niche for second wave of back-to-the-future foods

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New niche for second wave of back-to-the-future foods

The impeccably groomed Mayfair headquarters of the Royal Kennel Club may not be the obvious place to host a bunch of so-called “fat cats”. But on Tuesday it was where Accenture, Lloyds Bank and Jim Mellon’s New Agrarian investment fund held a morning meeting on “institutional investors and a better food system”.

The message was clear. A second wave of alternative food investing is putting behind it the disappointment of the first, which peaked in 2021 and crashed a couple of years later after briefly putting lab-grown meat and plant-based alternatives such as the Impossible Burger on mainstream menus.

The new wave of startups, of which Britain has a good number, is focused on more niche areas of the food system. The bull case for it ranges from increasing the security of food supply to reducing cruel intensive farming.

One hot topic was regulation. Successive British governments have tried to create a regulatory environment in which the innovative food sector can thrive. In 2024, Meatly won approval to put its lab-grown chicken in pet food. Labour has created a regulatory “sandbox”, running until 2027, to help speed approval of food innovations for human consumption. The fear is that, as Britain re-engages with the EU, this approach will clash with the continent’s more heavy-handed, often science-sceptic regulatory philosophy.

Another worry is that, the technology having been proven, innovative food may be the latest example of British investment institutions failing to throw their financial weight behind promising startups. The institutional investors in the room made all the right noises. If they don't follow through with serious money, they should be sent to the doghouse.

Alternative food investing peaked in 2021 and crashed a couple of years later.

Linda Kennedy/Alamy

Nvidia chips in to tune of \$150bn

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Nvidia chips in to tune of \$150bn

Why is the world's most valuable company putting aside \$150bn to purchase its own shares – the biggest stock buyback ever?

Share repurchases make most sense when insiders know the market is undervaluing their company. But Nvidia's share price, up by about a quarter in the past year, is hardly a bargain.

Chief executive Jensen Huang says Nvidia is doing so well it can invest unprecedented amounts in growing the business (an estimated \$130bn), while also engaging in the sort of novel financing that lets “the central bank of AI” return lots of surplus money to shareholders.

One criticism of buybacks is that executives use them to pump up their pay without performing better. Shrinking the share count boosts earnings per share (and thus bonuses). Nvidia pays staff heavily in new stock, which dilutes existing shareholders. Buybacks can offset that, keeping the share count flat. A big chunk of Nvidia's buyback may go to mask the true cost of stock-based pay, dressing it up as a reward to investors.

The loudest sceptic is investor Michael Burry, who is shorting Nvidia (see page 38). Buying back shares this richly valued, he says, is just overpaying. Others seem to agree. Share prices often soar on news of a buyback. Nvidia's barely moved.

City's free pass on climate risk reporting weakens green efforts

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City's free pass on climate risk reporting weakens green efforts

In a setback for efforts to make British business greener, last Wednesday the Financial Conduct Authority withdrew its plans to mandate listed companies to report on climate-related risks in line with international standards. Instead, it is merely requiring companies that decline to report to explain why.

The regulator's reasoning was twofold. Mandating the standard, it said, risked being disproportionately costly and thus damaging to the competitiveness of UK-listed firms. Moreover, as $92\%$ of FTSE 350 companies already comply voluntarily, why force the issue?

There is also competitive pressure from abroad: the EU is watering down its climate disclosure regime, and the Trump administration has scrapped equivalent US rules. With London losing stock market listings at a worrying rate, perhaps it has little choice but to join this international race to the bottom.

This is a disappointing outcome to an international effort to build meaningful standards for disclosing climate risks. The International Sustainability Standards Board, whose disclosures UK companies can now take or leave, was created in 2021 to end decades of fragmented, voluntary climate reporting, an alphabet soup of competing frameworks that left investors unable to compare companies on a consistent basis. Now each of its three biggest potential adopters has championed the ISSB while declining to require anyone to use it.

The FCA's evidence undercuts its conclusion. It offers 92% voluntary compliance as proof that mandating disclosure is unnecessary. Yet, given they are mostly doing it anyway, mandating it at least for big firms would cost almost nothing, while the burden on smaller firms could be limited by giving only them the discretion to comply. The standards have not been abandoned; when the pendulum swings back towards corporate responsibility, they may then be made mandatory.

Boots, Monzo and the RAC snub London stock market

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Boots, Monzo and the RAC snub London stock market

Barney Macintyre

Business editor

Are UK public companies facing an extinction event?

It sounds dramatic, but a string of trade sales, buyout rumours and suspended public offerings over the past week have forced the question, yet again.

Monzo, a fintech jewel the UK government has courted as a potential listing candidate, has instead opened up talks with multiple private equity firms after a deal to sell to Brazil's NuBank for £10bn fell through.

Boots, a British retail staple that many speculated would be popular with retail investors on the public market, is nearing a \$9bn private sale to Canada's Weston family, which controls ABF and Primark.

The RAC has shelved plans for a London stock market listing. Its owners opted to sell their stakes into a “continuation vehicle” – an increasingly popular way for private equity investors to keep hold of assets, rolling them into a new fund because they didn’t get the price they wanted.

Twenty years ago, Britain boasted 1,700 publicly quoted companies. Now there are 909 and the trend is downwards – something my colleague Will Hutton has repeatedly highlighted. Now it falls to a Labour government to make the case for a revived stock market.

Boots is nearing a \$9bn private sale to Canada's Weston family. Mike Kemp/In Pictures/Getty Images

“You’re not going to get growth without a good domestic stock market, and you can’t really have a good domestic stock market without domestic capital,” said Steven Fine, chief executive of the investment bank Peel Hunt.

For founders or companies seeking liquidity, the valuation offered by an

IPO in the UK can seem lacklustre. But it's a chicken-and-egg problem, rooted in a lack of “home bias” from British investors who've been incentivised to stick their savings in a US tracker fund or cryptocurrency.

Confoundingly, for UK companies that do make the jump, raising capital on public markets is straightforward.

Fine cites the example of Softcat, a UK technology company with a valuation 17 times earnings that recently raised more than £350m from long-term supportive shareholders to acquire a US technology company.

There are signs that Britain's IPO drought could soon end. The \$7bn flotation of Africa-focused Airtel Money, London's largest offering in years, could add momentum to the trend of emerging market companies coming to the UK. London-based Zilch, another promising fintech company, is eyeing the capital for a float in 2027. Waterstones is considering it too.

The hardest challenge, perhaps, is landing the message of why public markets matter. “If you want to hold companies to account, if you want disclosures, if you want a thriving retail investment culture, then maybe you do [need a public market],” says Fine. “Equity is permanent. Debt has to be refinanced or repaid.”

Unions prepare to march into the private sector as a whole new white-collar world opens up

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Unions prepare to march into the private sector as a whole new white-collar world opens up

Mike Clancy of Prospect addresses union members during a two-day strike at the V&A in south London last month.

Ron Fassbender/Alamy

Firms such as Meta

are striking deals on

workplace relations

ahead of a law change

that will allow trade

unions to request access

to certain businesses

Stephen Armstrong

From 30 October new pro-trade union laws are set to change the face of industrial relations in the UK, potentially increasing the presence of trade unions in the private sector. Most significantly, under the rules introduced as part of the Employment Rights Act, unions will have the right to request physical and digital access to workplaces with 21 or more employees.

Some companies are striking deals ahead of this deadline. Last week, Meta signed an out-of-character agreement with Prospect, allowing the white-collar union access to speak to the roughly 5,000 employees across its London sites about union membership. “Meta’s industrial relations team already works with employee representative groups in multiple markets, and we are approaching this in the same way,” the company said in a statement.

Others are wary. “There’s a real concern that these changes will add unnecessary complexity and disruption for firms already facing significant cost pressures,” said Patrick Milnes, head of people and work policy at the British Chambers of Commerce. “These changes are landing alongside a wider package of employment law reforms putting real strain on businesses, particularly SMEs."

The changes include rights and protections for trade union representatives and for employees taking industrial action. From 1 January, employers will be required to provide workers with a standardised statement informing them of their right to join a trade union.

The pro-union mood music at this week's Labour conference was at its loudest for some time: Angela Rayner said she was “born in Stockport, raised in Unison”, and chancellor John Healey reinstated the Union Learning Fund, a £15m training scheme run by trade unions to help workers in England gain new skills in technology, including AI.

For unions such as Prospect – which is strongest in the defence, technology, energy, media and telecoms industries – training is as significant as pay. "UK companies have a very sluggish rate of adopting AI, partly because management is deploying it with no support or training, and partly because staff don't trust management to not replace them," argued Andrew Sturtevant, Prospect's assistant secretary. "You're likely to end up with higher, faster rates of adoption when it's done as part of a negotiated settlement with the union, where people are reassured about concerns and the union can ask or oversee training."

"Businesses understand the

‘We potentially have a two to three-year window to use these rights, so there is a ticking clock’ Mike Clancy, Prospect

importance of constructive workplace relations," Milnes said. "Trade unions can play a positive role where they help identify issues early, improve communication and support change. The priority must be to support positive relationships at work, without making it harder for businesses to hire, invest and grow."

Higher trade union membership in the UK accompanied higher productivity from the Second World War to 1973, when about half of UK workers were union members and productivity growth hit a record 7.2%. But the oil shock of that year inverted the relationship. Since the 2000s, both have been on the floor.

Among younger white-collar workers, union membership differs from the old model, often based on workplace policies. Prospect's growth in membership at Meta began in the pandemic and as workers were told to return to the office, then boomed with the Trump administration's edict banning DEI (diversity, equity and inclusion) policies. US and UK management toed the line, removing policies on hate speech and sexuality.

Google DeepMind workers voted overwhelmingly for representation by the Communication Workers Union in May, after Google's deals allowing the US Department of Defense and the Israeli military to use its technology. In June, British employees at Wikipedia formally requested representation via the Communication Workers Union and the case is in arbitration.

General UK union membership is at 22% and private sector membership is just 12%, although about a fifth of workplaces have collective bargaining agreements or recognise unions, including most supermarkets, banks, defence companies and technology firms. Research last year from the Chartered Institute of Personnel and Development found employers with union representatives are generally positive about the relationship, while those without unions are negative.

The looming deadline will likely push unions to move swiftly. “We’re very aware in the movement that both Reform and the Conservatives said they’re going to repeal this if they win [a general election],” said Prospect general secretary Mike Clancy. “We potentially have a two to three-year window to use these rights, so there’s a ticking clock, and you’ll see unions being assertive because we don’t have the luxury of time.”

The CBI said: “The framework for industrial relations should reinforce that culture of collaboration, not create incentives for conflict. Businesses are concerned that the rules on access provide insufficient safeguards against a minority of trade unions that are uninterested in constructive engagement.”

Equity loans for first-time buyers set to underpin new-build market

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Equity loans for first-time buyers set to underpin new-build market

Emma Haslett

In the years after the financial crisis, the government had two problems: cheap credit was pushing up house prices, so first-time buyers struggled to get on the housing ladder, and housebuilding was at a record low.

In his 2013 budget, George Osborne announced a plan to tackle both. The Help to Buy scheme offered a government-backed equity loan of up to 20% (and, in a later iteration, 40%) of the value of a new-build home. In effect, it gave buyers a ready-made deposit and provided builders with a steady supply of customers.

In his attempt to kickstart housebuilding, Andy Burnham has a new version. Your First Home will give first-time buyers a 20% equity loan for new-build homes, allowing them to become homeowners with a deposit of as little as 2.5%. The scheme was announced just as figures from the Home Builders Federation showed the number of new homes given planning permission in the second quarter had fallen by 8% on the same period the year before, the lowest annual total since 2013.

So can this version of the scheme revitalise the market?

The original Help to Buy scheme "kickstarted private housebuilding back to levels we hadn't seen for over a decade, and quite quickly," according to Aneisha Beveridge, research director at Connells Group. By the time it ended in 2023, the rate of UK housebuilding had risen from 133,000 homes a year to more than 210,000. Some argued that it was artificially inflating house prices and pushing borrowers into negative equity – but last month an independent review said it had created a “fairly widespread recovery” in housebuilding.

But conditions are notably different today. Borrowing costs are higher – since 2013, the base rate has climbed 3.25 percentage points, which hit mortgage affordability and thus demand. The Iran War, meanwhile, has caused a sharp rise in construction costs. Last month Vistry, one of the UK's largest housebuilders, cut its profit forecast, saying the conflict will push up costs by between 3% and 4% this year.

This scheme's success may depend on as yet unannounced details. The government has hinted at price caps on homes sold through the scheme and income caps for those borrowing through it, but Emily Williams of Savills warned: "If it's too narrowly drawn, it won't provide enough help to housebuilders."

The Your First Home scheme gives people a reason to buy new-builds. Justin Tallis/Getty Images

Beveridge added. "It will need to be in place for at least three to five years, if not indefinitely, to give housebuilders the confidence to acquire land and build." For a government struggling to contain spending, that's quite a commitment.

What's important, said Williams, is giving the right signals. "It gives people a reason to choose new-build, and it gives housebuilders more certainty over potential sales."

However, the government said last week that in exchange the property market must clean itself up. At the Labour party conference, the housing minister, Angela Rayner, outlined plans to cap “rip-off” fees for leaseholders and introduce an independent regulator and a licensing scheme for property agents.

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[Weather] UK and Ireland | <td rowspan="2"> | <td colspan="2">Today | <td colspan="2">Monday | <td colspan="2">Tuesday | Low | High | Low | High | Low | High | Belfast | 9 | 18 | 14 | 17 | 10 | 13 | Birmingham | 4 | 19 | 12 | 20 | 12 | 19 | Bristol | 9 | 18 | 12 | 18 | 12 | 18 | Dover | 12 | 20 | 10 | 20 | 11 | 20 | Edinburgh | 9 | 17 | 15 | 18 | 10 | 14 | Glasgow | 10 | 17 | 14 | 17 | 9 | 14 | Inverness | 11 | 17 | 14 | 17 | 7 | 13 | Leeds | 7 | 17 | 14 | 19 | 14 | 17 | Leicester | 7 | 19 | 13 | 20 | 13 | 19 | Liverpool | 6 | 20 | 13 | 20 | 13 | 17 | London | 11 | 22 | 10 | 22 | 11 | 21 | Manchester | 6 | 18 | 13 | 20 | 13 | 17 | Newcastle | 5 | 16 | 14 | 18 | 11 | 14 | Norwich | 9 | 21 | 9 | 21 | 11 | 21 | Plymouth | 9 | 20 | 10 | 19 | 11 | 19 | Swansea | 7 | 18 | 14 | 18 | 14 | 18 | Dublin | 7 | 18 | 16 | 19 | 11 | 14 | ![](images/13c483e72b68c0e81fff5842bc4b87c27b56f1da9ed12fc9aa891a56bffb56dc.jpg)

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[Weather] UK and Ireland | | Today | Monday | Tuesday | Low | High | Low | High | Low | High | Belfast | 9 | 18 | 14 | 17 | 10 | 13 | Birmingham | 4 | 19 | 12 | 20 | 12 | 19 | Bristol | 9 | 18 | 12 | 18 | 12 | 18 | Dover | 12 | 20 | 10 | 20 | 11 | 20 | Edinburgh | 9 | 17 | 15 | 18 | 10 | 14 | Glasgow | 10 | 17 | 14 | 17 | 9 | 14 | Inverness | 11 | 17 | 14 | 17 | 7 | 13 | Leeds | 7 | 17 | 14 | 19 | 14 | 17 | Leicester | 7 | 19 | 13 | 20 | 13 | 19 | Liverpool | 6 | 20 | 13 | 20 | 13 | 17 | London | 11 | 22 | 10 | 22 | 11 | 21 | Manchester | 6 | 18 | 13 | 20 | 13 | 17 | Newcastle | 5 | 16 | 14 | 18 | 11 | 14 | Norwich | 9 | 21 | 9 | 21 | 11 | 21 | Plymouth | 9 | 20 | 10 | 19 | 11 | 19 | Swansea | 7 | 18 | 14 | 18 | 14 | 18 | Dublin | 7 | 18 | 16 | 19 | 11 | 14 |

[High tides] Source: © Crown copyright and/or database rights. All rights reserved. | <td colspan="4">Today | <td colspan="4">Monday | <td colspan="4">Tuesday | Aberdeen | 08:05 | 3.6m | 20:32 | 3.5m | 09:37 | 3.5m | 22:00 | 3.6m | 11:06 | 3.7m | 23:15 | 3.8m | Belfast | 05:26 | 3.0m | 17:56 | 3.1m | 06:57 | 2.8m | 19:20 | 3.1m | 08:30 | 2.9m | 20:40 | 3.3m | Dover | 05:11 | 5.5m | 18:07 | 5.4m | 06:57 | 5.3m | 19:52 | 5.4m | 08:26 | 5.5m | 21:14 | 5.7m | Galway | 11:50 | 4.0m | --- | --- | 00:56 | 3.8m | 13:33 | 4.0m | 02:30 | 4.0m | 14:53 | 4.3m | Harwich | 05:29 | 3.2m | 18:15 | 3.3m | 07:03 | 3.1m | 20:01 | 3.3m | 08:36 | 3.2m | 21:21 | 3.5m | Holyhead | 04:43 | 4.6m | 17:21 | 4.6m | 06:28 | 4.5m | 18:57 | 4.8m | 07:54 | 4.7m | 20:10 | 5.1m | Hull | 13:00 | 6.0m | --- | --- | 01:19 | 5.8m | 14:41 | 6.0m | 03:01 | 6.0m | 15:59 | 6.3m | Leith | 09:07 | 4.6m | 21:45 | 4.5m | 10:38 | 4.6m | 23:12 | 4.6m | 12:03 | 4.8m | --- | --- | Liverpool | 05:18 | 7.7m | 18:01 | 7.6m | 06:55 | 7.5m | 19:34 | 7.8m | 08:26 | 7.8m | 20:52 | 8.3m | London | 07:35 | 5.7m | 20:22 | 6.0m | 09:00 | 5.5m | 21:54 | 6.0m | 10:37 | 5.6m | 23:18 | 6.2m | North Shields | 10:08 | 4.2m | 22:37 | 4.1m | 11:44 | 4.2m | --- | --- | 00:09 | 4.2m | 13:09 | 4.3m | Penzance | 11:09 | 4.5m | --- | --- | 00:10 | 4.2m | 12:56 | 4.5m | 01:50 | 4.4m | 14:19 | 4.8m | Plymouth | 12:02 | 4.5m | --- | --- | 01:01 | 4.2m | 13:44 | 4.5m | 02:50 | 4.3m | 15:14 | 4.7m | Portsmouth | 06:03 | 4.0m | 18:31 | 3.9m | 07:30 | 4.0m | 19:58 | 3.9m | 08:56 | 4.1m | 21:13 | 4.1m | Southport | 04:24 | 7.4m | 17:02 | 7.3m | 05:56 | 7.2m | 18:42 | 7.5m | 07:41 | 7.5m | 20:07 | 8.0m | Weymouth | 00:23 | 1.4m | 12:45 | 1.5m | 02:31 | 1.3m | 14:56 | 1.5m | 03:59 | 1.4m | 16:11 | 1.6m | Wick | 05:47 | 2.8m | 18:12 | 2.9m | 07:24 | 2.8m | 19:40 | 2.9m | 08:53 | 2.9m | 20:57 | 3.1m | Speedy crossword No. 1,617

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[High tides] Source: © Crown copyright and/or database rights. All rights reserved. | Today | Monday | Tuesday | Aberdeen | 08:05 | 3.6m | 20:32 | 3.5m | 09:37 | 3.5m | 22:00 | 3.6m | 11:06 | 3.7m | 23:15 | 3.8m | Belfast | 05:26 | 3.0m | 17:56 | 3.1m | 06:57 | 2.8m | 19:20 | 3.1m | 08:30 | 2.9m | 20:40 | 3.3m | Dover | 05:11 | 5.5m | 18:07 | 5.4m | 06:57 | 5.3m | 19:52 | 5.4m | 08:26 | 5.5m | 21:14 | 5.7m | Galway | 11:50 | 4.0m | --- | --- | 00:56 | 3.8m | 13:33 | 4.0m | 02:30 | 4.0m | 14:53 | 4.3m | Harwich | 05:29 | 3.2m | 18:15 | 3.3m | 07:03 | 3.1m | 20:01 | 3.3m | 08:36 | 3.2m | 21:21 | 3.5m | Holyhead | 04:43 | 4.6m | 17:21 | 4.6m | 06:28 | 4.5m | 18:57 | 4.8m | 07:54 | 4.7m | 20:10 | 5.1m | Hull | 13:00 | 6.0m | --- | --- | 01:19 | 5.8m | 14:41 | 6.0m | 03:01 | 6.0m | 15:59 | 6.3m | Leith | 09:07 | 4.6m | 21:45 | 4.5m | 10:38 | 4.6m | 23:12 | 4.6m | 12:03 | 4.8m | --- | --- | Liverpool | 05:18 | 7.7m | 18:01 | 7.6m | 06:55 | 7.5m | 19:34 | 7.8m | 08:26 | 7.8m | 20:52 | 8.3m | London | 07:35 | 5.7m | 20:22 | 6.0m | 09:00 | 5.5m | 21:54 | 6.0m | 10:37 | 5.6m | 23:18 | 6.2m | North Shields | 10:08 | 4.2m | 22:37 | 4.1m | 11:44 | 4.2m | --- | --- | 00:09 | 4.2m | 13:09 | 4.3m | Penzance | 11:09 | 4.5m | --- | --- | 00:10 | 4.2m | 12:56 | 4.5m | 01:50 | 4.4m | 14:19 | 4.8m | Plymouth | 12:02 | 4.5m | --- | --- | 01:01 | 4.2m | 13:44 | 4.5m | 02:50 | 4.3m | 15:14 | 4.7m | Portsmouth | 06:03 | 4.0m | 18:31 | 3.9m | 07:30 | 4.0m | 19:58 | 3.9m | 08:56 | 4.1m | 21:13 | 4.1m | Southport | 04:24 | 7.4m | 17:02 | 7.3m | 05:56 | 7.2m | 18:42 | 7.5m | 07:41 | 7.5m | 20:07 | 8.0m | Weymouth | 00:23 | 1.4m | 12:45 | 1.5m | 02:31 | 1.3m | 14:56 | 1.5m | 03:59 | 1.4m | 16:11 | 1.6m | Wick | 05:47 | 2.8m | 18:12 | 2.9m | 07:24 | 2.8m | 19:40 | 2.9m | 08:53 | 2.9m | 20:57 | 3.1m | Speedy crossword No. 1,617

Around the world | <td rowspan="2"> | <td colspan="2">Today | <td colspan="2">Monday | Low | High Weather | Low | High Weather | Amsterdam | 11 | 19 fair | 11 | 21 fair | Athens | 17 | 23 windy | 16 | 25 sunny | Auckland | 10 | 17 fair | 7 | 17 cloudy | Baghdad | 24 | 32 showers | 23 | 35 fair | Beijing | 13 | 21 fair | 8 | 25 sunny | Belgrade | 7 | 24 sunny | 6 | 24 sunny | Berlin | 10 | 20 cloudy | 8 | 21 cloudy | Brussels | 10 | 21 sunny | 9 | 21 fair | Budapest | 3 | 24 sunny | 3 | 24 sunny | Buenos Aires | 7 | 23 fair | 12 | 22 cloudy | Cairo | 20 | 29 haze | 20 | 29 fair | Cape Town | 12 | 28 cloudy | 14 | 25 sunny | Copenhagen | 11 | 16 fair | 11 | 18 fair | Dublin | 7 | 18 cloudy | 16 | 19 cloudy | Geneva | 13 | 23 showers | 11 | 23 fair | Gibraltar | 21 | 24 showers | 22 | 24 showers | Across

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Around the world | | Today | Monday | Low | High Weather | Low | High Weather | Amsterdam | 11 | 19 fair | 11 | 21 fair | Athens | 17 | 23 windy | 16 | 25 sunny | Auckland | 10 | 17 fair | 7 | 17 cloudy | Baghdad | 24 | 32 showers | 23 | 35 fair | Beijing | 13 | 21 fair | 8 | 25 sunny | Belgrade | 7 | 24 sunny | 6 | 24 sunny | Berlin | 10 | 20 cloudy | 8 | 21 cloudy | Brussels | 10 | 21 sunny | 9 | 21 fair | Budapest | 3 | 24 sunny | 3 | 24 sunny | Buenos Aires | 7 | 23 fair | 12 | 22 cloudy | Cairo | 20 | 29 haze | 20 | 29 fair | Cape Town | 12 | 28 cloudy | 14 | 25 sunny | Copenhagen | 11 | 16 fair | 11 | 18 fair | Dublin | 7 | 18 cloudy | 16 | 19 cloudy | Geneva | 13 | 23 showers | 11 | 23 fair | Gibraltar | 21 | 24 showers | 22 | 24 showers | Across

1 Onerous (physical work) (12)

9 Range, compass (5)

10 Musical style originating in Trinidad (7)

11 Badger's burrow (4)

12 Immobilise (8)

14 Lethargic (6)

15 Genus of sea duck (6)

18 Significance, stress (8)

20 Musical piece for two (4)

22 Culinary herb (7)

23 Enclose; protect (against) (5)

24 Emotional paternal substitute (6,6) | Low | High | Weather | Low | High | Weather | Helsinki | 8 | 14 | showers | 6 | 14 | showers | Hong Kong | 27 | 31 | rain | 25 | 30 | fair | Istanbul | 15 | 22 | windy | 14 | 22 | fair | Jerusalem | 14 | 26 | sunny | 16 | 25 | fair | Kingston | 27 | 33 | rain | 27 | 33 | rain | Kolkata | 27 | 35 | sunny | 26 | 35 | haze | Kyiv | 8 | 19 | fair | 10 | 19 | cloudy | Los Angeles | 25 | 38 | sunny | 25 | 39 | sunny | Madrid | 16 | 23 | storms | 15 | 25 | storms | Melbourne | 10 | 16 | fair | 7 | 19 | fair | Mexico City | 14 | 21 | rain | 15 | 22 | rain | Miami | 27 | 32 | storms | 26 | 32 | storms | Moscow | 2 | 12 | cloudy | 8 | 13 | showers | Nairobi | 16 | 28 | fair | 16 | 27 | fair | Nassau | 26 | 32 | showers | 26 | 32 | storms | New York City | 14 | 17 | rain | 14 | 20 | sunny | Down

2 Referee (7)

3 Bird of prey (4)

4 Pertaining to ethnicity (6)

5 Association formed for mutual benefits (8)

6 Insinuate (5)

7 Widely travelled, seasoned traveller (12)

8 Celebrate noisily (5,3,4)

13 Religious benefice (8)

16 Loud resonant noise (7)

17 Warning about criminal activity (3-3)

19 Fold in material (5)

21 Member of the former Liberal party (4)

Lighting up | Today | Monday | Belfast | 1853 to 0735 | 1851 to 0736 | Birmingham | 1837 to 0715 | 1835 to 0717 | Bristol | 1842 to 0718 | 1840 to 0720 | Dover | 1826 to 0702 | 1824 to 0703 | Edinburgh | 1841 to 0724 | 1838 to 0726 | Glasgow | 1845 to 0728 | 1843 to 0730 | Inverness | 1842 to 0728 | 1840 to 0731 | Leeds | 1835 to 0715 | 1833 to 0717 | London | 1833 to 0709 | 1831 to 0711 | Manchester | 1839 to 0718 | 1836 to 0719 | Newcastle | 1835 to 0717 | 1833 to 0719 | Plymouth | 1848 to 0723 | 1846 to 0724 | Swansea | 1847 to 0723 | 1845 to 0725 | <td rowspan="2"> | <td colspan="2">Today | <td colspan="2">Monday | Low | High Weather | Low | High Weather | Oslo | 7 | 15 cloudy | 11 | 19 fair | Ottawa | 4 | 16 fair | 8 | 12 showers | Paris | 14 | 25 fair | 13 | 25 sunny | Prague | 8 | 20 fair | 10 | 21 sunny | Riga | 7 | 16 cloudy | 9 | 15 cloudy | Rio de Janeiro | 20 | 28 showers | 23 | 28 rain | Rome | 16 | 26 sunny | 14 | 26 fair | Seoul | 15 | 26 sunny | 15 | 20 fair | Singapore | 26 | 33 showers | 26 | 33 fair | Sydney | 14 | 23 sunny | 15 | 22 cloudy | Tokyo | 17 | 24 fair | 18 | 24 rain | Toronto | 10 | 20 fair | 9 | 16 windy | Vancouver | 10 | 18 cloudy | 10 | 17 cloudy | Vienna | 6 | 23 sunny | 9 | 22 fair | Warsaw | 8 | 20 cloudy | 9 | 19 fair | Washington | 16 | 18 rain | 15 | 24 fair | ![](images/40427916edd0d849915623bae890be728ca5a9916b202d198869498d21a0f51b.jpg)

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Lighting up | Today | Monday | Belfast | 1853 to 0735 | 1851 to 0736 | Birmingham | 1837 to 0715 | 1835 to 0717 | Bristol | 1842 to 0718 | 1840 to 0720 | Dover | 1826 to 0702 | 1824 to 0703 | Edinburgh | 1841 to 0724 | 1838 to 0726 | Glasgow | 1845 to 0728 | 1843 to 0730 | Inverness | 1842 to 0728 | 1840 to 0731 | Leeds | 1835 to 0715 | 1833 to 0717 | London | 1833 to 0709 | 1831 to 0711 | Manchester | 1839 to 0718 | 1836 to 0719 | Newcastle | 1835 to 0717 | 1833 to 0719 | Plymouth | 1848 to 0723 | 1846 to 0724 | Swansea | 1847 to 0723 | 1845 to 0725 | | Today | Monday | Low | High Weather | Low | High Weather | Oslo | 7 | 15 cloudy | 11 | 19 fair | Ottawa | 4 | 16 fair | 8 | 12 showers | Paris | 14 | 25 fair | 13 | 25 sunny | Prague | 8 | 20 fair | 10 | 21 sunny | Riga | 7 | 16 cloudy | 9 | 15 cloudy | Rio de Janeiro | 20 | 28 showers | 23 | 28 rain | Rome | 16 | 26 sunny | 14 | 26 fair | Seoul | 15 | 26 sunny | 15 | 20 fair | Singapore | 26 | 33 showers | 26 | 33 fair | Sydney | 14 | 23 sunny | 15 | 22 cloudy | Tokyo | 17 | 24 fair | 18 | 24 rain | Toronto | 10 | 20 fair | 9 | 16 windy | Vancouver | 10 | 18 cloudy | 10 | 17 cloudy | Vienna | 6 | 23 sunny | 9 | 22 fair | Warsaw | 8 | 20 cloudy | 9 | 19 fair | Washington | 16 | 18 rain | 15 | 24 fair |

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Fun & games for all the family Observers needed How many eights can you make? These dominoes are all in a jumble. How many eights can you make using pips that are side by side or above and below? Once you're finished, why not cut them out and play a game of dominoes!

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Fun & games for all the family Observers needed How many eights can you make? These dominoes are all in a jumble. How many eights can you make using pips that are side by side or above and below? Once you're finished, why not cut them out and play a game of dominoes!

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Octopus day

It's world octopus day on Thursday, in celebration of one of the most intelligent marine dwellers on the planet. So take a deep dive and see if you can spot...

□ A cowboy crab riding a seahorse

□ An eight ball

□ A squid wearing lipstick

□ A football

□ Two lost rings □ An octopus with seven legs

□ A clown fish

□ An octopus in camouflage

□ A fork

□ A fish with an umbrella

Illustration by Anita Mangan

Your weekly logic page featuring two puzzles compiled exclusively for The Observer

How to dress this autumn

📖 中文精读 ↗

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How to dress this autumn

For the past few years, the fashion industry has been defined by a kind of creative-director musical chairs. Jonathan Anderson moved from Loewe to Dior; Matthieu Blazy moved from Bottega Veneta to Chanel. A fortnight ago, Glenn Martens announced he was stepping down from his head designer role at Diesel to concentrate on his other gig, as creative director of Maison Margiela. It seemed like just another example of the fashion world merry-go-round. And yet... Martens had achieved the impossible at Diesel – making a mass-market brand appeal to fashion's in-crowd – and despite the industry's constant changes, experts expressed shock at his sudden departure. What happened? Why now? Martens was designing nine collections a year – an unbelievable workload. Perhaps he was just tired? Or was there something more serious at play? Ahead of Martens's departure, writer Shaad D'Souza travelled to Diesel's imposing glass-and-steel HQ in Italy to sit down with the designer. In a wide-ranging interview, they discussed Martens's boundary-pushing work, his surprising career trajectory and what made him leave at the peak of his success.

Also in this special menswear issue, Charlie Teasdale dives into the preppy trend's big comeback following Ralph Lauren's triumphant AW26 menswear show. Despite nearly 60 years in the biz, the King of Prep had never shown the menswear collection in its own runway show until this year, but its success is proof that prep is bigger and better than ever.

And if you think fashion means hefty price tags, you might be pleased to know that the high street is back, thanks to several big-name designer appointments and a commitment to quality without a corresponding price hike. There's never been a better time to look stylish on a budget.

Thanks for reading. We hope this issue inspires a few wardrobe choices.

Helen Seamons

Fashion editor

Cover image: Federico Ciamei

The Observer Magazine • 22 Berners Street,

London W1T 3LP • magazine@observer.co.uk.

Printed at Walstead Bicester Ltd, Chaucer Business Park, Launton Road, Bicester, OX26 4QZ

(3) Stonethence (4) Saffron (5). The War of the Woods (6) Sheffield Wednesday (7) Facebook (8), Paris, London, Milan, New York (9) Black II) Prompanate, 12) Tejon (13) Slovenia (14) Edward Encinful (15) Cat (16) Nottingham (17) The 400 Blues (18) The revolution

Shop the menswear high-street edit, p23

CONTRIBUTORS

Mark Anthony Fox

(Homes, p29)

Mark is a photographer known for his evocative approach to interiors, architecture and lifestyle.

If you could swap wardrobes with anyone who would it be?

"Paul Newman – without a doubt!"

Matilda Hill-Jenkins

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Matilda Hill-Jenkins

(An hour with, p9)

Matilda is a London-based photographer who creates intimate photographs with a focus on connection, community and craft.

If you could only ever wear one pair of jeans, what would they be?

"A pair of vintage white Wrangler jeans I bought off eBay for a friend a few years ago. I was trying to encourage her to shop secondhand. We measured her properly, but they still didn't fit... I took them home and realised they fit me perfectly! They're now my most worn pair."

Charlie Teasdale

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Charlie Teasdale

Charlie Feasiture

(Preppy fashion, p24)

Charlie is a journalist and author covering style, culture and lifestyle for publications including Esquire, Financial Times and Wall Street Journal.

What item will you be borrowing from this season's preppy trend?

"I love the made-in-Scotland Shaggy Dog sweaters at J Press."

Federico Ciamei

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Federico Ciamei

(Glenn Martens, p14)

Federico is a photographer born in Rome and based in Milan. He likes photographing people doing things they love, going to places he

doesn't know and having lazy, slow breakfasts. What is the best fashion purchase you've ever made? "A pair of trousers from a small shop in Tokyo. Now I want a second pair but there's no brand written anywhere and I can't remember where the shop was. So I wear them very carefully and only for special occasions."

Shaad d'Souza

(Glenn Martens, p14)

Shaad is the editor of Shaad Magazine, an Instagram-based publication, and contributor to the New York Times, Vogue, GQ and many more.

What item of clothing would you (or have you!) borrowed from your dad?

"I've taken all my dad's best stuff and promptly lost it or ruined it. Sorry Dad!"

[Observations] We've forgotten the joy of an unexpected little gift

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[Observations] We've forgotten the joy of an unexpected little gift

My friend Chris came to breakfast the other day with a small, perfect, beautiful little belated birthday gift for me: an antique ashtray stamped with the logo of a discontinued whisky brand, which he found at a very small French market in Primrose Hill. It's a simply gorgeous item – milky-white glass stamped with stars-and-stripes red and blue fonts – and, even though I only really smoke when I'm showing off to people, it's just so me, and to be seen is to be loved. I gasped when I saw it. “I can burn little cones of incense in it,” I said, because that's what it's like to hang out with me. “I could put it in– hmm. Front room, maybe? Or: actually, it could be nice on a sideboard I have in my bedroom.” After quite a lot of that, Chris quietly informed me I could put it where I want and it really doesn't matter and he doesn't need to hear all my thinking about it, out loud, but he was glad I broadly liked the thing.

I am advocating for adding a bit more ‘thoughtful little gift’ energy to your life, because they are as fun to give as they are to receive

Chris has form: last year he turned up with a deck of cards, because he heard me say once that I like cool decks of cards (I do). For a cumulative £10 spread across two separate years, he has delighted me entirely, and writing this I realise I owe him something nice in return. But then that's the joy of small gifts: you see something a friend might like, in passing, and pick it up and save it for the next time you see them. Or you do what my friends do on holiday, which is remember to send joke postcards, the handwriting beach-drunk erratic and loopy, and it turns up weeks later as a surprise, and you can tell they were cackling stupidly when they did it.

I am often in used bookshops buying a little stack of postcards – I am pretentious, we can admit this – and I love buying handsome copies of books I already have, writing something inside them, wrapping them neatly in brown packing paper and sending them as a surprise to my friends. If you've spent more than a tenner on anything like this you have messed up.

I think always-on communication like we have now (you know, with phones, emails, Slack) has made us forget about gifts. When it's someone's birthday, I could just send a fun "hb" text and be done with it. But items, actual items, are heavy with something spooky and imbued with their own sentimental energy. A gift is a gift forever.

I am advocating for adding a bit more “thoughtful little gift” energy to your life, because they are as fun to give as they are to receive, and it gives you something to do on a Sunday beyond reading this bit of the magazine quickly before getting to the better stuff. Try it today: go to a car-boot sale with a heavy pocket of 50p pieces and buy some mad little trinket for a pal. I promise you’ll feel delighted. ●

LIFE CHOICES BY HANNAH CROSBIE

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LIFE CHOICES BY HANNAH CROSBIE

A tastemaker's diary

As a long-time lover of tennis, I've decided to stop watching from the sidelines and get involved. I'm doing this by taking lessons in my

Next week we'll do backhand. "That way you'll be able to do both of the sides," my coach said, as he flipped through his phone, unaware he had struck comedy gold. I feel I've got my money's worth by experiencing this moment alone – screw the motor skills.

To reset my fried nervous system I've been listening to a lot of ambient music recently. Something about those frequencies smooths out the rough edges. This is the next logical step after years of tuning into "lofi hip-hop radio beats to

relax/study to" on YouTube. If you like this kind of thing, too, I'd love to point you in the direction of Slow Bloom, a

monthly radio show on DO!! YOU!! Radio. There are currently 11 hour-long shows available; the most recent begins with the Lord of the Rings soundtrack, morphs into Bach's Orchestral Suite No 3 and eventually transforms into the psychedelic ambient

field recordings of Rainforest Spiritual Enslavement. The bag is mixed, but the brain is smooth.

Hey, babe, you should totally watch Widow's Bay. No babe, seriously, it's so good. It's kind of like Twin Peaks (someone in that writers room was definitely Lynch-maxxing) and its Welsh star, Matthew Rhys (pictured left): total Dilf. Rhys, who is 51, is newly a record-breaker; at the recent Emmys, he became the first person to win two lead actor awards on the same night. Sometimes the discourse around television shows can be disorienting. (Is it good? Are people just jumping on a bandwagon?) But I am here to report that Widow's Bay is actually wonderful. If you like New England horror (Stephen King, The Witch) but also a conspiracy story (Twin Peaks, Welcome to Nightvale, Gravity Falls) you'll get something out of this latest from the creepy attic of America. ●

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Dr.Mortens

14:30 London Euston

19:17 Glasgow Central

TICKET TYPE

First Class

A city break.

Before going here,

there and everywhere.

Why not have

everything

come to you?

AN

perfect hour...

Waking up on holiday in Ibiza.

I'll have a cup of tea on

a balcony that overlooks the

beach, read my book, eat

breakfast and then go and

jump in the water.

Which era in history would you like to have lived through?

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Which era in history would you like to have lived through?

It's dependent on whether I go as myself or not, because history hasn't been kind to Black and brown people. I have a fascination with Victorian England, and I would have loved to have seen the construction of the pyramids in ancient Egypt, but I'd be in disguise.

If you could spend five minutes with someone famous, dead or alive, who would it be?

Sade. She comes up in so many of my creative conversations as a symbol of intelligence, beauty and timelessness. I'm trying to get her out of retirement so I can meet her – or even dress her – one day.

What period of your life do you daydream about the most?

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What period of your life do you daydream about the most?

The two-year period before my stepdad passed away. I'd just started my own clothing brand and we were both working from home. He was extremely supportive and I'm grateful he was there to witness my life changing in an exciting way.

When was the last time you stole something?

I have friends that steal glasses from the pub, which end up at my house for some reason. I don't take them myself – I like my glassware to be matching – but I'm handling stolen goods.

What was the last gift that you received? My last meaningful gift was from my best friend, who spent ages finding the vinyl of a house track called

PRIYA AHLUWALIA

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PRIYA AHLUWALIA

The British fashion designer and creative director launched her eponymous apparel label in 2018. Her clothing explores her dual Indian-Nigerian heritage and has been worn by stars including Wunmi Mosaku, Keke Palmer and Aimee Lou Wood.

Back Together by Hardsoul ft Ron Carroll. It's a song that reminds me of my stepdad. I couldn't stop crying when she gave it to me.

What was the last song you Shazammed? In Your Eyes by George Benson. I knew the song, but I couldn't remember who the artist was. I cannot get over Shazam. Every day I'm like, how on earth does this work?

When was the last time you checked social media? Ten minutes ago. I'm trying to be more intentional with my free time, so I don't always go to my phone. I paint, I've tried candle-making and screenwriting, and I've just signed up for piano lessons. When you lock into something creatively, your mind opens and you can be free.

When was the last time you cried?

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When was the last time you cried?

Yesterday. I've been having an emotional one lately, I'm not gonna lie. It's more reflection and overwhelm. My clothing brand is turning eight, which I'm very proud of, but I have a lot of responsibilities. I've been surviving on four hours' sleep for weeks.

When is the best time to leave a party?

Nothing fantastic happens after 2am. Do I practice what I preach? Not necessarily.

If you could go back in time, what would you say to your 18-year-old self? Be present, enjoy the ride, carry on writing in your diary, keep partying and spend time building confidence in yourself.

If you make it to your 100th birthday, what would be the reason? Because I followed my nana's advice to keep my mind busy. At 80, she's up to date with technology, walks everywhere and stays active, so I will have done the same. ●

NATURAL STONE

PORCELAIN

& DECORATIVE TILES

'The beauty makeover shows of 20 years ago broke women down to rebuild them. It was compulsive telly'

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'The beauty makeover shows of 20 years ago broke women down to rebuild them. It was compulsive telly'

Where once I might have settled in to relish a reality show, now I must settle for documentaries about the horrors of a reality show. You can tell by the gait of my gaze, you can tell by my lunch,

I am of the generation that came of age in the early 2000s, the era of “size zero”, the red “circle of shame” around celebrities’ cellulite, yet even then, the makeover reality shows that emerged still had the power to shock. In the UK we were spoiled, with Trinny and Susannah on What Not to Wear (where they stripped women naked and said their hair looked whorish) and Ten Years Younger, where passersby called contestants hags before they were swished off for a facelift. In the US there was The Swan, widely considered the most offensive show of all and thus the most popular in an era where the snipping of contestants' eyelid skin had become a valid form of entertainment. This is the subject of a new documentary, The Swan: Behind the Mirror, that revisits its original “ugly ducklings” 20 years after they each left their families for three months of surgery, extreme diets, exercise and dental work before competing in bikinis at a beauty pageant. One contestant said breezily that her uncle thought she’d been trafficked, and looking back, realises he was not entirely wrong.

The makeover show requires a woman to be ceremoniously pulped, her body and often her being, too, broken down and rebuilt. In The Swan, surgeons discuss smashing a woman's bones to “feminise her face”, removing “masculine teeth” to “find her feminine smile” – the more you watch the more it becomes clear the femininity (and the entertainment) comes from having

seen the painful process required to exhume the woman beneath. The surgeon explains that one contestant is actually quite pretty, but it's his job to get rid of all the mess (the nose, the teeth, the jaw) hiding that beauty. Today, The Swan's lead plastic surgeon Dr Randal Haworth says, "There are no victims in life, only volunteers," and, sagely, "You want to see drama!"

And he's not wrong. Half a million women applied to be on the show, which saw 10m viewers an episode, and online clips of the “reveals” racking up many millions more. People talk about slowing down for car crashes, but this is different, a sort of delicious doubling of reality. These before-and-after reveals are hypnotic not because the results are so spectacular, but because we can see, behind the white veneers, the person they used to be. The same thing happens, again and again – the boob job, the cankle surgery, the tears – and every time we marvel. Personally, I longed for a twist, like the Changing Rooms episodes where a homeowner hated her redesign (or watched in horror as their antique teapot collection crashed to the ground), but in the doc we learn that swans were required to reshoot the reaction to their reflections until they appeared appropriately teary.

The fact these women went three months denied of any reflective surfaces seems just as eerie and folkloric as their telegenic reincarnation. How did this contribute to the disintegration of their old selves, I wonder, the fact it was not only the sight of their friends and families that was hidden from them but their own faces? The only other time mirrors are traditionally concealed is after death as a mark of profound loss and when superstitions position them as gateways to the afterlife, or in the case of The Swan, before-life.

There are moments of horror, such as when the surgeon discovers cancer mid-nose-job, and the realisation they wore opera gloves during reveals because, while the surgeons had done all they could to their faces, their arms remained unacceptable. Twenty years on, the swans tell the same stories, about veneers falling out, and breast implants shifting, and no health insurance to maintain their new bodies or lives, and their chil-

dren not recognising them, and returning home to the same abusive relationships, where they were still told they were ugly.

While gulping with guilt at the grot of this era of reality TV, though, I can't ignore the fact the makeover plot, like the tragedy, comedy or quest, has a terribly moreish kind of peace to it. It's a shame so many noses had to be broken and lives crushed because for all its torture, it was great telly. ●

STYLE NOTES BY HELEN SEAMONS

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STYLE NOTES BY HELEN SEAMONS

Menswear's answer to a dress and boots is boots is monochrome dressing: it's easy to assemble and requires minimal thought, although it does require more items than its womenswear equivalent.

For winter it works best with a neutral like black, navy, grey or brown. It's essentially a two-step process. Step 1: pick a colour. Step 2: wear almost everything in that colour – and voilà! But a few tips can help refine the look. Work backwards from your coat, as that's the most expensive piece. Rich chocolate brown is very now; layer a relaxed suit with an overcoat.

Or start with a T-shirt, layer up with an overshirt, and add a boxy-fit jacket. The pieces don't need to match the exact same shade; slight variations add depth to the look. Think about proportions and what works well together. Mix textures, like hopsack or herringbone tailoring with a brushed mohair sweater and a wool overcoat. Brands that do monochrome edits well include Oliver Spencer, NNo7, Universal Works and Arket.

Pay attention to finishing details. One piece of jewellery or a watch in a complementary tone is all you need. Silver works well with greys and navy, while gold and copper suit browns and will warm up black. At the IM Men show in Paris, a hint of a contrast-pattern shirt was used to break up the brown – it's a useful hack to steal and you can swap the print for a plain white T-shirt. It's all about a pop of contrast.

We've focused on brown here, but that doesn't mean black is out (black is always in). Either way, monochrome is unforgiving at showing up any bit of fluff or pet hair, so with any dark shade keep a lint roller near the front door for a swift once-over before you leave the house. It will be £2 well spent.

Clothing and shoes by IM Men; sunglasses by Tanaka Eyewear

Photograph BRIAN DALY

Model IBBY

Designer GLENN MARTENS transformed Diesel from a tacky denimwear brand into a mass-market global label that also appealed to fashion's in-crowd. So why did he suddenly quit?

Photographs

FEDERICO CIAMEI

Right in the centre of Veneto, an arid industrial and agricultural centre in northern Italy, lies a palace. The vast, fortified space, made entirely of glass and steel, sitting outside Breganze, an hour west of glamorous, crumbling Venice and an hour east of fair Verona, stands in stark contrast to the dusty strip malls and creaky industrial parks dotted around it. I visited on a stifling day in late June, by which time nearly all the grass in Italy had been broiled to a pallid brown; when my chauffeur pulled into the carport of the main building, a sheltered space next to a greenish pond, it felt like I’d been driven on to the set of Dune...

Inside, I was met with a devastatingly trendy kind of opulence: a huge, minimal space flanked by hanging gardens on opposing walls; faded patchwork carpets made of old Persian rugs; and a gigantic armchair that had been intentionally distressed, I'm sure, to reflect the artfully shredded denim being designed a few floors up. At the centre of the lobby, a gorgeous, waifish, disaffected receptionist sat behind a spaceship-like desk, fabricated from patchworked steel. Welcome to Palazzo del Diesel.

What comes to mind when you think about Diesel? Perhaps you think of too-tight, too-dark jeans stretched on to too-muscular men. Overstuffed outlet shops near your hometown, frequented by pre-teens rifling through the racks in search of a secondary school appropriate rebrand. Maybe you remember the brand's somewhat dubious former logo – the profile of a handsome, chiselled Mohican – which is still carved into the dark floorboards of the Breganze headquarters. This was certainly my memory of Diesel for many years: tacky, tasteless, depressingly unbidden by the trends of fashion writ large.

I was in Breganze that week, though – sweating through my Talking Heads T-shirt on a 38C day – because everything I once knew about Diesel was no longer true. In just a few years, the Italian denim brand had undergone a radical and hugely successful transformation. No longer fodder for tourists, Diesel had become arguably the sexiest store on the high street, and the rare mass-market brand that appeals to fashion's in-crowd. The silhouettes were scrunched and sexy; the palette was lurid and surreal, relying on bright colours and trompe l'oeil; and the jeans always, always, seemed to fit perfectly.

The brand's transformation could be attributed to the man I was there to see: Glenn Martens, the former Y/Project wunderkind who has won the title of Your Favourite Fashion Student's Favourite Designer for a few years running now. Sitting next to me in his office upstairs, deep in the palazzo's rabbit-warren structure, he made the turnaround sound deceptively simple: "My most important thing at Diesel is to make so many people feel great because they're wearing denim that makes them look sexy and feel like they have a great ass," he said, flashing a mischievous smile. "That's my main goal."

What a line, right? Martens is a charmer of the highest order, and you get the sense that everyone around him absolutely loves him. Ahead of meeting him, the publicists who escorted me upstairs to his office – three Italian women who hovered nervously like fruit flies – kept talking about how lovely he is, how much his staff love him, what an incredible turnaround he had achieved with the brand. When we sat down at a large glass table in his office, he offered me water, sweets, coffee, all of which I declined, until finally he hit on electrolytes, something I was actually interested in. "Ahh, great!" he exclaimed, satisfied he'd found something with which to woo me. He and the staff had a party last night, he explained, so everyone was on the electrolytes. Based on every interview he's ever done, I suggested, he and his staff are always partying. "It's actually true – the problem with this company is that we all are working from abroad. We all come in here to work, because we're all living in Milan or whatever," he said. "We're all staying in the same hotel and we get along very, very, very well, so we always have dinners together, and then party, and there's always a bottle too much."

Martens does not fit the usual superstar designer template. He doesn't seem to be feared by his staff. I've never heard rumours of him committing any kind of casual abuse, against humans or animals, unlike some of his contemporaries. "I would say that Glenn is beloved in the industry – having a conversation with him makes me giddy with delight," Steff Yotka, editor-in-chief of i-D magazine, told me. She remembers being at Matthieu Blazy's debut show for Chanel, and noting how in awe Martens was of the set, and how unafraid he was to express said awe. "A lot of fashion people trade on pretension to add a level of security – it's a very insecure industry – but Glenn is so human and so relatable and so kind."

It's that relatability, perhaps, that's allowed him to take a company with hundreds of retail locations and thousands of employees and, in a matter of years, completely overhaul it. When he was first appointed to the role of creative director in 2020, “there were so many people working in Diesel, but they were all from different eras of the company, so there was a very strong disconnection within what they believed Diesel was,” he told me. In the company's almost 50 years of operation, it's been everything to everyone, at different price points, which felt like a “complicated” legacy to contend with. “When I arrived, I really thought it was a very dated brand – to be honest, I think the average customer was male, over 45, very probably homophobic, very probably sexist,” he said. “And I knew Diesel according to when I fell in love with it back in the 2000s, which was the pop era, a really funky Diesel. But between that moment and my arrival five years ago, it had lived different lives.”

What Martens did, he told me, was bring back a language that spoke to Diesel's 1990s and 2000s peak, “not really reinventing it, just resetting it to the original family values,” he said. “It’s all about fun, pop, lifestyle. [The brand’s motto] For Successful Living, the cheekiness, that’s really the ethos of the brand.”

Martens's work at Diesel upended the industry in significant ways. He live-streamed preparations for each runway show, and $\rightarrow$ 'My goal at Diesel was to make denim that made people feel like they had a great ass'

made a number of his Diesel shows open to the public, in contrast to the typical idea of a runway presentation as an exclusive, rarefied event. “There’s a community element to it – he’s democratising fashion a little bit, making it less this out-of-reach thing,” Chris Horan, Charli XCX’s stylist, told me.

Martens accepted the job in part because of how few luxury designers get to speak to a mainstream audience. “During Covid I was like, ‘Am I going to do superficial fashion for all my life?’” he said. His work at Diesel, he decided, would reshape the brand’s DNA and rebuild it as a sustainable denim company. When he began at Diesel, it used 3% recycled or regenerative cotton; within two and a half years, that figure was more than 50%. “Most of my customers are having the same very harsh life – they don’t have the time to think about sustainability. So with a brand like Diesel, you can bring a little bit of awareness,” he said. “But it comes with a big stress. We have 3,000 employees worldwide. That’s one of the first things [Diesel founder] Renzo [Rosso] told me when I started doing quite aggressive changes: ‘If you fail, that’s a lot of families which don’t have money tomorrow.’”

That day, Martens was wearing his life story. His boots belonged to his father, a judge, and were older than him. His jeans were Maison Margiela, where he also works as head designer. (Both brands are owned by OTB, an Italian luxury conglomerate with a smaller portfolio than larger groups like LVMH and Kering.) He wore a faded vintage paisley shirt, given to him by a friend, and over that an oversized blue button-down shirt whose collar was threaded with wire, making it flexible and structured, a design from his collaboration with H&M from last year that calls back to his time at Y/Project, the French label where Martens worked for many years, and which he managed to turn into one of the most beloved cult brands in recent memory.

He is handsome – a young 43 – with roguish features and tousled brown hair. Or, as he explained to the makeup artist before his shoot for this piece: “I like the hair messy and then, normally for the face, I just ask to look hot, sexy and young. No smoky eyes... More like you’ve been partying for two days. I just want to look a bit more dark and sexy.”

Martens was raised in Bruges in the 1980s: sleepy plazas, churches and canals. Growing up, it felt like the middle of nowhere, and as such had a fairytale quality. “Your reality is like Disneyland,” he said. “It’s a really, really beautiful city.” He went to a public high school and learned little about art or music, and there wasn't much to discover in the broadly conservative town. "I was always a bit of an outsider because I was already having a little bit of these artistic vibes, even though I wasn't aware of it," he said. "I wasn't even gay yet, but I was bullied when I was 14, 15, because I was a bit too strange."

Martens said that if he had known pursuing fashion as a career was an option, he might have chosen it earlier but, being in Bruges, he chose the next best thing: architecture. He had completed his degree and was in the middle of completing an internship, when he saw an advertisement for intake exams at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. He took the exam on a whim – he knew it was a beautiful school, and thought it might be nice to study in such an environment – and ended up being one of 80 students accepted from 400 applicants. At that point, the fashion school within the academy was already renowned, having turned out the “Antwerp six,” a group of some of the most important fashion designers of all time including Dirk Bikkembergs, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, less than two decades earlier. Martens knew what an incredible opportunity it was. “It felt like... you were so blessed to be part of this thing,” he said. “I was very, very lucky.”

'Being a media darling can obscure important realities about clothing. Like, who is buying Diesel jeans for \$550 in this economy?'

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'Being a media darling can obscure important realities about clothing. Like, who is buying Diesel jeans for \$550 in this economy?'

Looks from Diesel's autumn/winter 2026 catwalk shows

Martens ended up graduating first in his class and took a position working under Jean Paul Gaultier, at his eponymous label. It was there he realised “when you work in fashion, you really have to love fashion. It’s not your job where you can just go in and out. It can be a bitch in moments, so you have to be ready for it.”

From there, Martens knew he had to start his own label, if only because he “knew [he] was a very bad assistant, and would never really be good in a house assisting people – I’m very stubborn, super annoying in that way.” But nobody would have given him a senior position anywhere either. So for three seasons he ran his eponymous label Glenn Martens. The whole thing, he said, was torturous. “I’m so bad at anything with numbers – how to open an Excel file, even – and you have to do that when you have your own brand,” he said. “I did it the first year I moved to Paris, so I didn’t even have a network there, I didn’t know anybody. I always saw it more as a portfolio for a potential future job.”

It worked. In 2013, Martens was appointed creative director of Y/Project, an avant-garde label founded by the designer Yohan Serfaty. That label had been Serfaty's baby; these days, most fans of the brand likely believe it was founded by Martens to begin with. He turned it into one of fashion's most beloved niche brands, and a defining label for Gen-Z fashion freaks, known for its unconventional silhouettes – many items were modular, and could be totally refashioned thanks to liberal use of velcro and buttons – and trompe l'oeil designs.

Of course, working for such a scrappy label proved difficult. “We made a lot of mistakes and we didn’t prioritise certain things we should have prioritised – like, make sure you always deliver your clothes on time, not two months late,” said Martens. The label closed in 2025, after its owner, Gilles Elalouf, died. It has since been sold to a Chinese investment group which asked Martens to return, an offer he declined. “Let’s see, maybe they revive it,” he told me. “I was excited when I heard about that.”

In Breganze, Martens told me he was focused on his future at Diesel and Margiela. "When I arrived here five years ago, I was hired for very specific directions," he said. "They didn't have Gen Z or girls. Now, I hear the opposite – they want us to have millennials and men." He went on, "The problem is that I'm not the boss, I'm the creative director, so I have to follow what the brand wants. With a brand like Margiela, the attitude and the spirit of the brand shields you – you know what the brand stands for. A lifestyle brand like Diesel doesn't have one specific customer in mind – it can go in many directions."

Ultimately, he said, the future of Diesel was in the hands of Andrea Rigogliosi, the company's incoming CEO, the brand's fourth since 2018. "We have no idea, really, to be honest," he said. "The new CEO just arrived and it's a bit more dependent on him. We're very happy that this person knows what he wants, or knows that he has seniority. We don't know where he wants to go."

And then Martens found out. In Breganze, his comments on Rigogliosi seemed to me like designer aloofness. Now it scans as caginess. A couple of weeks ago, almost completely out of the blue, Martens announced he was stepping down from Diesel, but remaining at Margiela, with little explanation as to why.

Given how well the designer had done at Diesel, it seemed an odd decision. The consensus among fashion insiders I spoke to is that Martens's turnaround of Diesel was truly successful and truly brilliant, but that the fantasy of luxury fashion may have started bumping up against the more pragmatic realities of a brand with hundreds of stores and a mainstream consumer base. "No one was buying it – commercially and spiritually," one New York-based fashion consultant told me, who spoke under condition of anonymity. "I think being a media darling can sometimes obscure important realities about clothing. Like, who is buying Diesel jeans for \$550 in this economy?"

Sceptics wondered if it was all part of a deal: if Martens could revitalise Diesel, he could continue at Margiela, a much more creative position. “Before Glenn, Diesel had been culturally irrelevant and he was brought on to give it a bit more relevance. The timing was interesting, because there was already something happening with [vintage] Diesel and the Y2K resurgence,” a former buyer for a major retailer tells me. By doubling down on that Gen Z pushed Y2K wave, he says, Martens was able to make luxury retailers interested in Diesel, perhaps for the first time ever. “He’s obviously been successful. There was a period where you were seeing the logo everywhere on everyone. That moment has passed, but he’s re-established the brand codes, and created a framework for another designer to come in.”

Vanessa Friedman, fashion director and chief fashion critic at the New York Times, told me that Martens's departure is a “completely logical evolution. I think he was instrumental in making Diesel a show that everyone goes to – both a great denim brand and also one that really pushes the limits of design in a very contemporary way,” she said. “It was a big brand, but he’s now made it into an even bigger brand.

Margiela is also a big and important brand, and it's probably just too much work for one person. If you want to design at the level he designs at, it takes time. You have to make mistakes. You have to experiment. And you need time to do it."

Fashion workloads are famously brutal – few designers have been able to manage two large, high-profile labels without suffering to some degree. Even Jonathan Anderson, having designed for his eponymous label and Loewe for many years, scaled back JW Anderson when he took over as lead designer at Dior.

“I think the work Glenn has been doing at Margiela is really interesting and creative, and I just can’t imagine how big the workload was to do both,” says the stylist Katie Grand. “I think he’s left Diesel in a really exciting position. It’s sad he’s moving to just do Margiela, but I’m sure someone very exciting will be doing Diesel soon.”

The anonymous fashion criticism account Boring Not Com says that “it was time” for Martens to leave Diesel, if only because “he was losing momentum by trying to do both at the same time”. The anonymous account says that couture at Margiela has been “great,” but that Martens needs to focus more on ready-to-wear. “I think his legacy is that he made Diesel exciting again and brought it back into the conversation,” they say. “With him focusing on Margiela full-time, I think we’ll see a more consistent vision across the whole brand.”

It's true that Martens's recent collections for Diesel had toned down the lasciviousness of his earlier work, as well as the complex fabrications, in favour of clothes that were far more wearable as part of an everyday wardrobe. His final collection, may have featured despicably horny performers making out and pole dancing – and an extended edit of Donna Summer's Love to Love You Baby featuring orgasmic moans – but the clothes were his most accessible yet, filled with garments that, while still avant-garde, wouldn't necessarily read as inappropriate on the everyday.

As Martens told me back in June, the brand's mandate was also changing slowly – from Gen Z and girls, which he had been brought in to capture, to millennials and men. The former buyer says you can feel a distinct shift in Martens's recent collections for the brand, which have been trending far more muted. "I think they're now at a point where they need to be appealing towards a broader customer and not alienating millennials or even younger Gen-Xers who would have been wearing the brand in its heyday, especially given the fickle nature of Gen-Z shopping habits," says the former buyer. "There's been a wider shift in fashion, away from directional product towards a more conservative way of dressing."

One question remains: who will take the reins at Diesel now? At the time of writing, general consensus around London seems to be that Knwls, the

London-based duo of Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault, have been lined up to take on the job for a few months. (Grand, without saying who would take the job, noted that the brand's next stewards “are British.”) Knwls worked with Martens on Diesel for a time, and their trademark aesthetic – hyper-sexualised, denim-heavy, but altogether less avant-garde than Martens's work – would make sense for the direction the brand has been going in.

Another source tells me, emphatically, that the job has gone to Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient, the Swiss-born, Berlin-based designers behind the cult label Ottolinger, whose earthy, organic cool-girl designs offer a deconstructed, sportswear-inspired take on going-out clothes. Neither duo has designed menswear before; reps for both declined to comment on the possibility of their appointment.

After his final show last Tuesday during Milan Fashion Week, Martens, for his part, seemed overjoyed. “It’s very bittersweet because it’s really my baby – that’s why I chose... [Love to Love You Baby]. The whole design team since day one has never changed,” Martens said backstage at the show. “The whole company changed, but my design team has been the same people. I’m going to be very sad to leave them. They’re really like family.” ●

PHOTO COURTESY OF RALPH LAUREN

Join the Ivy League

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Join the Ivy League

Once confined to American campuses,

PREPPY STYLE is back in vogue with

its timeless antidote to modern anxieties

In the future, when the machines have taken over, what will the remaining humans wear? Post-apocalyptic movies tend to assume that only the most utilitarian garb will sustain. Carhartt jack-

ets and army surplus, leather boots and trucker hats with faded logos of motor oil brands long lost to the ravages of time. But there's an argument to say that humanity will still find space in its subterranean wardrobes for spiffy blazers, stripy ties and chinos, because preppy style is not only reliably cyclical, but somehow inevitable. And right now, via hit TV shows and critically adored fashion collections, it's rising to one of its many peaks once again.

“I don’t think preppy ever really disappears, it’s always prep o’clock somewhere,” says Christopher Bastin, brand consultant and former creative director of Gant, one of the pillars of the preppy menswear scene. “Fashion periodically decides prep is cool, then deeply uncool, then discovers it again.”

Preppy style was born in America's coastal private schools in the 1970s and 1980s. Prep's forebear was the "ivy style" (as in, Ivy League) of the post-war decades, which saw university students take American formalwear – such as softly tailored "sack" suits, chino slacks and tweed blazers – and wear it much more casually with scruffy sportswear. The look was part-Beat poet, part-brawny jock, and still has a cult following to this day. (The 1965 photobook Take Ivy by Teruyoshi Hayashida is one of the foremost men's style reference books, too.)

Traditionally, prep has been more aggressively collegiate. “A little more harsh and moneyed,” says Paul

Simon, co-owner of John Simons, the ivy style mecca on London's Chiltern Street. Blazers, slacks, shirts, loafers; popped collars and institutional motifs: alma mater crests, acronyms that end in “U”, beasts rearing and/or roaring. Whereas ivy style quietly emerged via elite academia, prep proudly declared its social standing.

The prep of the 1980s and 90s was driven by brands like Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger, who established the basis of the look. It included (but was not limited to) navy blazers with gold-coloured buttons, diagonally striped “repp” ties, oxford cotton button-down shirts, boat shoes, penny loafers, cricket jumpers, let-terman jackets and rugby shirts. All realised in rich, pool-ball colours intended to make you pop out of the redbrick and privet hedge of a private school campus.

That element of the aesthetic is not for everyone. “I’ve never been interested in dressing as if I’m off to an Ivy League reunion,” says Bastin. First of all, I can’t pull it off, and second, I lack the proper pedigree. But if I’d gone to Yale

or Harvard, I think I'd have gone to town with it, to be honest."

Others, however, revel in the kitschness of it. For a day at this summer's Wimbledon championships, British GQ's head of editorial content Murray Clark opted to go all-in on prep, wearing a double-breasted navy blazer (replete with gold buttons), roomy tan chinos and a tennis-themed tie which was, he says, "a little bit on the nose". "I wanted something that clashed," he added, "and the navy blazer and slouchy chinos gave it

Tyler the Creator in Golf Le Fleur and Louis Vuitton that high/low look."

I dabbled in prep myself recently for a

By CHARLIE TEASDALE

Polo Ralph Lauren has led the preppy look for decades

wedding, pairing straight navy chinos with battered penny loafers, a very soft, off-white button-down shirt, and a sharp shouldered, double-breasted navy blazer with a subtle pinstripe. I kept it conservative and left the stripy tie out for fear of overdoing it, but the 1980s-style jacket and shoes bookended an otherwise straightforward look with a touch of Dead Poets Society insouciance.

However, in 2026's era of nostalgic culture, it not only harks back to halcyon school days, but serves as an irreverent tonic to the doom and gloom of the news cycle. Preppy clothes evoke a recent past where the world was a bit less everything everywhere all at once. It's partly why Love Story, the 2026 biopic series about John F Kennedy Jr and Carolyn Bessette was such a smash hit, and why there was a reported "JFK Jr effect" on menswear in the weeks and months that followed. All backward caps, school-stripe scarves and tennis shoes.

“Nostalgia is part of it, but I think it’s more about permanence,” says Bastin. “After years of hype, drops, enormous logos and incredibly fast trend cycles, there’s something reassuring about a look that feels like it’s always existed.”

Ralph Lauren has maintained prep – contained within the Polo sub-collection – as one of its various American-dream aesthetics throughout the brand's 60-year history, but this year, it put snappy collegiate style at the forefront, and the reception has been supremely positive. Rather than just reintroducing a new generation to the old classics, Lauren retooled prep in a Gen-Z vernacular, introducing baggier fits and adding zeitgeisty accessories, like crossbody bags and teeny, techy sun-glasses. "When I began designing menswear, I was drawn to timeless tradition, but never bound by it," said Lauren in the show notes. Vogue noted that it was the most-viewed men's show of → the season. And after steady growth over the past half-decade, Ralph Lauren surpassed \$8bn (£5.99bn) in revenue for the first time this year.

Elsewhere, Jack Carlson, former Oxford University coxswain and founder of ultra-preppy throwback brand Rowing Blazers, reportedly took over at J Press, another snappy American clothier founded 125 years ago, to great acclaim. Carlson plans to open 20 new stores across the US in the coming years, and fuel the expansion with argyle sweaters, tweed jackets, corduroy suits, rugbies, button-downs and ties.

In the UK, Savile Row's preppiest outfitter Drake's has just announced a November collaboration with cult Japanese label Beams, which itself follows the ivy/preppy design codes. And Dunhill creative director Simon Holloway, who has made the fusion of heritage sportswear and fine British tailoring the thrust of his tenure, has just been nominated for menswear designer at the upcoming British Fashion Awards.

So, if you've never explored the look before (or attended an American private school), how can you get into prep this autumn? Thankfully, there are building blocks. Start with a great pair of chinos, pleated and roomy in the leg. Then find a blue bengal-stripe oxford cotton shirt with a button-down collar, preferably something that has been softened by years of loving use. Next, a pair of simple penny loafers by the likes of Alden or GH Bass, and a bold knit that you can tie around the shoulders for added gaiety.

“I think the best and easiest way to do it is a rugby shirt,” says Clark. But it doesn’t need to be from a fashion brand, and something second-hand might even be preferable. “I get vintage rugbies from eBay and Vinted, and the collar is normally a bit more starchy and lived-in.”

The specific clothes themselves are perhaps less important than the scruffy vibe – you want to look as if you have just emerged freshly showered from a piney country club locker room, or like you're running late for a poetry tutorial in 1982. For inspiration, the late, supremely stylish David Hockney was a master of scruffy, irreverent, bookish style that stayed the right side of collegiate. (Though it's unlikely the notion of preppy dressing ever crossed his mind.)

For the uninitiated, Bastin offers succour. "Prep works for everyone," he says. "It's democratic in that way." And he's right, because who doesn't look good in a blue blazer and a nice pair of loafers? But Clark heeds restraint. "Just choose the one thing and let that be the thing that shows off," he advises. "You don't need all the bells and whistles, especially if it's not your usual setting. And know your limits. If you feel silly, you'll look silly. And that's not just for going preppy, that's my application to everything, however you dress."

Cable knit

cricket jumper,

£190, Horatio

Check shirt, £90,

John Simons

Boat shoes, £265, Mr P

Pleated chinos, £125, Community Clothing

Baseball cap,

£36, J Press

CAMPUS

CHIC

Easy pieces to

get the look

Striped cotton shirt, £225, Drake's

Rugby shirt,

£89, Opensider

Wool blazer, £557, J Crew

Deck shoes, £260, Goral

Shop The best menswear on the high street

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stars

Men's clothing on the high street has been getting a glow-up. It's now easier than ever to find good-quality pieces – from basics to tailoring – at affordable prices, partly because big names in the fashion world are being asked to take over our favourite house-hold name brands. Here's our pick of pieces from the most covetable collections...

Fashion editor

HELEN SEAMONS

Photographs

BRIAN DALY

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ALLSAINTS

Founded in 1994 in Spitalfields, east London, AllSaints is synonymous with a gritty London cool aesthetic. AW26 is the first collection designed by new creative director Aaron Esh, whose own label has become a hot ticket at London Fashion Week. Leather remains the central pillar of the AllSaints wardrobe, but under Esh it has been moved on from distressed black to new colours, finishes, weights and proportions, from cropped, sharply pitched silhouettes to boxy peacoats and fitted trucker styles. It's also not about youth. "I'm less interested in defining an AllSaints customer by age or demographic. I'm interested in character," says Esh. His debut collection, developed with stylist Katy England, draws on the brand's history, redeveloping archive styles for today's customer.

Key buys:

  • Miller leather jacket, £399
  • Tulip-print shirt, £119
  • Ombré stripe knit, £199

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JOHN LEWIS

Famous for its “never knowingly undersold” motto, John Lewis has been steadily expanding its menswear offer to include a host of cutting-edge, independent brands alongside its own brand lines, Kin, John Lewis and Anyday. New for autumn are APC, No Problemo and Labrum, with exclusive pieces available from Denham, Gant and Barbour. Tailoring is a category John Lewis excels in, with own-brand suiting sales up 169% on last year. Bestsellers include a 100%-wool pinstripe suit. Launching on 6 October is a collaboration with Clothsurgeon, bringing Savile Row expertise to the high street. Founder Rav Matharu says he was “excited” to work with the department store, saying “the collaboration has allowed us to express our aesthetic at a more accessible price”. Key pieces include the double-faced cashmere coat and double-breasted blazer (pictured right).

What to buy:

  • Slim-fit cord blazer, £170
  • Kin 3-in-1 jacket, £109
  • Cashmere double-breasted suit jacket, £210

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UNIQLO

Known for its affordable, well-cut denim and Heattech base layers, Uniqlo has carved out a niche for stylish basics and excellent designer collaborations. Under the guidance of creative director Clare Waight Keller (formerly of Pringle, Chloé, and Givenchy, where she designed Meghan Markle's wedding dress), Uniqlo's fashion credentials have risen. Insiders know the Uniqlo:C (designed by Waight Keller) and U:Uniqlo collections are where to head for style-led pieces. "It's about clothes that feel refined and considered, yet completely natural to wear," says Waight Keller. Also not to be missed are the JW Anderson collections (the same designer who heads up Dior), where you can pick up wardrobe heroes given Anderson's subversive styling treatment, including jeans for under £40.

What to buy:

  • Heattech cashmere-blend turtleneck, £22.90
  • Cashmere crewneck, £89
  • JWA Selvedge straight-leg jeans, £39.90

Mwathi wears denim jacket, £49.90; cardigan, £39.90; turtleneck, £22.90, and jeans, £39.90, all by Uniqlo. Shoes, £190, by Alohas

MARKS & SPENCER

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MARKS & SPENCER

Marks & Spencer has been servicing our wardrobes for 100 years, and last month the retailer celebrated a century of style with a headline-grabbing show at London Fashion Week. All 59 looks were available to shop immediately – among the sold-out pieces was a bold blue v-neck knit (£49). “We’ve backed knitwear in a big way, bringing in new yarn innovation, better quality and more choice,” explains Mitch Hughes, director of M&S Man. M&S has quietly become a go-to for good-quality style staples at affordable prices (82% of the menswear collection is priced under £50). Hughes is positive M&S has “everything men need to dress confidently, from top to toe”. Standout categories for the new season include outerwear, such as a contrast-collar car coat and a feather-and-down puffer that could easily pass as a premium brand – plus footwear and accessories. Next time you pick up a prawn mayo sandwich for lunch, swing by the menswear floor.

What to buy:

  • Autograph Supima

T-shirt, £20

  • Suede zip tote, £50
  • Pure cotton waxed utility jacket, £90

Louis wears jacket, £49; shirt, £49; trousers, £30, and tote, £35, all by M&S. Shoes by Alohas, £150

Grooming by Krystle Gohel; fashion assistant Freya Goodchild-Bridge; models Louis Best and Mwathi Gakonga at Premier Model Management

Subscribe to The Observer for £1 to join our Culture Club

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Subscribe to The Observer for £1 to join our Culture Club

Enjoy 50% off tickets to The Observer Book Club from Manchester Literature Festival

Author, comedian and host of The Guilty Feminist podcast, Deborah Frances-White 11 October, 4.30PM

Booker Prize-winning author

Yann Martel (Life of Pi)

14 October, 7.30PM

Acclaimed Korean American author Min Jin Lee (Pachinko)

21 October, 7.30PM

In conversation with The Observer's Erica Wagner

In Epping, an open house founded on radical kindness

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In Epping, an open house founded on radical kindness

just wanted to see what happens," says Penny Rimbaud, writer, poet, philosopher, painter, activist and co-founder of the anarchist punk band Crass. He's sitting alongside his creative partner, the artist Gee Vaucher, in a snug timber-boarded space resembling a cabin, and ■ ber-boarded space resembling a cabin, and speaking of the conception of the “open house” where they have lived for nearly 60 years. They have shared it not only with each other, but with a revolving cast of visitors, some friends and artistic collaborators, many of them strangers who simply asked to stay. “Whatever people → bring here," Rimbaud says, "I want to accept. I don't want to tell people what to do, how to do it, or why they should do it."

This is Dial House, a rambling farmhouse near Epping in Essex. It puts into practice their anarcho-pacifist ideals. They have two conditions: “We’ve never been keen about recreational drugs here and it’s always been a vegetarian household.” Vaucher says that life in the house is “about responsibility, without making rules. If you see something that needs doing, you do it, like weeding, or mending a chair, or washing up a cup. You don’t say, ‘Well, I didn’t use that.’”

The house is a work of improvisation and chance, much altered and extended since it was first built in the 17th century. It has itself “seen what happens”. It has wonky old timbers that carry the memory of their former lives as oak trees in nearby woods. It has sloping floors, low ceilings, deep shadows and outbreaks of light. Its redbrick exterior looks sturdy and normal, but internally one room joins another with non-linear logic, like episodes in a story with an unknown plot.

Vaucher and Rimbaud have added their own layers. Their creations, and works by their artist friends, hang from the walls. There's a bathroom panelled with boards of wooden wine and tea crates, emblazoned with the handsome typography of their importers. There's a wall patch-worked with fragments of patterned cloth. There are gifts from grateful guests, mementoes, objects whose origin has been forgotten. Doors and fireplaces are painted with patterns and flowers.

It is a place of production, a centrifugal organism that spins its creative energy off into a one-acre garden. Vaucher has a studio in the house, bright and relatively high, populated by inspirations and work in progress. There's another room where she's organising her archive for the forthcoming Gee Vaucher Foundation, whose aim is to preserve her work and support like-minded artists.

Outside there are sheds, studios and an old caravan, places where visiting artists can stay and make, if they're happy to live with a composting toilet. Rimbaud sleeps and works in one of the larger outhouses – a collage of salvaged building components, including a graceful old shopfront rescued from demolition and doors inset with stained glass. It's decorated with more art and artefacts, including an item of traditional Maasai clothing, and is scented with incense. In the garden there are fruit trees and vegetable patches and tomatoes growing in a greenhouse, such that art and produce grow side by side. Bells and wind chimes jingle.

Penny Rimbaud at work in his studio. Above left: a sunburst design in stained glass in the bathroom

Dial House has been altered and extended since it was first built in the 17th century and in recent decades visitors and friends have donated their own artworks

Vaucher and Rimbaud, now in their 80s, met at art school in Essex in 1961, and later came across Dial House while touring the county by motorbike. Rimbaud, then an art teacher, lived there for a while with two colleagues (Vaucher, wanting to be independent, lived down the road at that time) but he tired of life where each housemate had their own cupboard and organised their housework by rota.

“I wanted to share stuff,” says Rimbaud. “I wanted to get rid of everything. So I made it known that one weekend anyone could come and take whatever they wanted. I only kept a book, a table, a bed and the cooker.” From here the concept of Dial House grew. First there was a young man Rimbaud met while potato picking, who needed a place to live, then his girlfriend, then “people just started turning up from nowhere”.

It became a place that would, in Rimbaud's words, “facilitate stuff, because that’s the best you can do for people, isn’t it? To accommodate and facilitate. Well, also dream, if you like, a project, an idea.” The Stonehenge Free Festival, a major countercultural event that was performed every summer solstice from 1974 to 1984, was, he says, “plotted from here”, with its founder, Wally Hope. Crass started when “a sweet, innocent kid of 16 came here from Dagenham and said ‘I want to form a band.’” The young man, Steve Ignorant, became its lead singer.

There would be times when Vaucher and Rimbaud wouldn't know what was happening in the house. A woman secretly slept in their darkroom: "We kept seeing food disappear, but didn't know why," recalls Vaucher. But they have had remarkably little trouble from awkward guests – she called the police once, much against her principles, only to find that the chief inspector was a Crass fan. Up to 15 people might stay at one time, or more when adults and children were camping in the garden for the arts → club that they used to run. Once here, adults weren't allowed to interfere, unless asked, with what their children were doing. They were, he says, self-governing. "It's been a human experiment," says Rimbaud, and an enduring one. It seems to be a near-miraculous triumph of trust.

‘It’s been an enduring human experiment,’ says Rimbaud, one that’s a near-miraculous triumph of trust

A studio in the garden of Dial House

This month, Dial House will feature in Earthly Paradise, an exhibition at the William Morris Gallery in Walthamstow on “radical living in the UK” in the tradition of the Victorian socialist and designer after whom the gallery is named. Vaucher and Rimbaud say they “don’t know an awful lot” about Morris and weren’t sure whether to take part. They were also uncertain about appearing in The Observer, about “any move into essentially bourgeois territory”. But, in the end, their philosophy is to engage, “to break down the walls. It’s good to be able to get something over to other people”. Because, ultimately, the object is “just to try and make a kinder world, isn’t it really?” ●

The Happiness Index Nicky Haslam

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The Happiness Index Nicky Haslam

Lace curtain by Jane Wright at Alcova, during Milan design week 2026

The veteran interior designer and author, now in his 80s, launches the eighth edition of his viral ‘Things I Find Common’ tea towel on 1 November. Here he shares the things that do (and don’t) make him feel at home...

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Joy Fillers

A tray of drinks in the hallway. It's welcoming - and adds a bit of glitter.

Decoration should make you look prettier. My bedroom is hung with unlined mauve linen curtains. They make the skin glow.

Gilded cutlery. It's far warmer and more welcoming than English silver.

I always have a chair in the bathroom. Anything upholstered, especially in towelling. It's my drying chair.

Souvenir ashtrays. Anything that jogs the memory is great fun.

Shadows in a room. If you create pools of light the eye travels from one to the next – but it's the shadows that bring me joy.

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Joy Killers

Candles in the daytime are just wrong.

Cushion overkill. People use far too many. Use sparingly and keep understuffed, so they can flap around a bit.

Maroon is the ugliest colour. The drab red.

Dining rooms. You never use them enough and the dark wood tables look like boardroom furniture.

Framed posters and famous images on a wall demand too much attention.

Being too matchy-matchy. The eye never takes in two things at once.

Overhead lighting is ghastly; unbearable.

Jingyi Li's Hidden

Drawer-Dinner Set

made of bobbin lace

Antique English wingbacked chair reworked in 18th-century Vatican lace from Clarke and Reilly

Ceramic plate piped with clay from Pollyanna Johnson

[Currently Observing] The fresh extravagance of lace

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[Currently Observing] The fresh extravagance of lace

Lace is being woven anew in the home. The designer Jane Wright upends traditional techniques by blending hand needlework with machine-made lace. Woven with silhouettes of futuristic metropolises, her nets are anything but nostalgic. “Lace is still so loaded,” Wright says, of its complex origins in the 1600s. “It tells stories about womanhood, and the shared value given to this highly skilled craft.” For the table, ceramicist Pollyanna Johnson pipes layers of liquid clay on to black glaze, mimicking the material's gossamer-like delicacy emblazoned with pithy modern messages that defy their domesticity. And the textile artist Jingyi Li, a resident at Sarabande Foundation, cleverly weaves her Asian heritage and femininity into mending the cane on a classic bistro chair with spidery lace inserts. Lace is a symbol of craft with newfound edge. Try your hand at the bi-weekly London Lace Club (instagram.com/londonlaceclub).

At Large With... Tom Broughton in St Leonards- on-Sea

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At Large With... Tom Broughton in St Leonards- on-Sea

Tom Broughton at home in his Marine Court apartment

"I grew up in Leicester, the furthest place in Britain from the sea, which is probably why I love the coast so much," says Tom Broughton, founder of Cubitts opticians. "I still associate it with holidays, adventures, candy floss, donkeys and freedom." In 2024, he acquired an apartment in Marine Court, a modernist concrete tower in St Leonards-on-Sea, after spying its beacon-like form from the beach while day-tripping. He and his partner now divide their time between here and London – a spontaneous move that's entirely about escape. "It immediately felt like home," Broughton says.

Lesser known than its coastal counterparts Deal and Margate, St Leonards has a strong creative community. “It must have the highest number of ceramics studios per capita in the country,” says Broughton, who was drawn to the romance of the town’s 19th-century architecture. He feels a similar affection for Bottle Alley, a concrete walkway embedded with rainbow shards of glass that runs along the front to Hastings. “It plays into that charming 1930s view of what the British seaside can be.” Here, Broughton shares his go-to hang-outs in his adopted seaside home.

(@blackgullbooks.stleonards)

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(@blackgullbooks.stleonards)

“Right on the main drag, the owners of this secondhand bookshop collect a lot of arthouse stuff, and frequently receive personal collections. It means they have a really unusual art, architecture and design selection that’s above and beyond the regular. The books are interspersed with furniture and art, by local artists. I often pick up bits here for the flat or one of the stores.”

[Sunless] 68 Norman Road (sunlessantiques.com)

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[Sunless] 68 Norman Road (sunlessantiques.com)

"A lovely space with views over the sea run by a young couple with a great eye. Their curation of 1920s Art Deco and 1940s modernist antiques and decorative objects, often from France or Belgium, is excellent. I recently kitted out our new Manchester store with a bookcase, drum table and artwork from Sunless. They also have a great selection of early 20th-century French workwear."

[Collected Fictions] Unit 1, 6-8 London Road (@collected.fictions)

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[Collected Fictions] Unit 1, 6-8 London Road (@collected.fictions)

“This bar is one of the reasons I fell in love with St Leonards. It’s two tiny rooms full of wine bottles (and music) where you can happily while away the hours. They have a particularly good selection of natural wines and unusual beers and ale on tap. It has odd hours, it closes by 9pm, which gives a sense of the vibe.”

[Goat Ledge] The Promenade, Lower, Warrior Square (goatledge.com)

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[Goat Ledge] The Promenade, Lower, Warrior Square (goatledge.com)

"This photogenic series of colourful sheds is a local institution. They have live (or loud) music and are open all year round. The food is nostalgic – fish-finger baps and pencil-thin fries. The atmosphere – a bit silly and whimsical – is summed up by the giant model of a goat on the roof."

[⑤ St Leonards Gardens] Maze Hill (historicengland.org.uk)

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[⑤ St Leonards Gardens] Maze Hill (historicengland.org.uk)

"This is the lovely, hidden heart of St Leonards. The town's creator, James Burton, started with the Victoria Hotel and built the garden behind it with a turtle pond at its centre. It's surrounded by the nicest Victorian architecture with views down to the sea – it transports you into another era. Most people miss it."

There’s the 9-month dry-cured signature sweet flavour. There’s being traditionally seasoned in the Parma Hills. There’s looking cultured without even trying.

There are many reasons to Deluxe. One is the price.

£9.99/kg

Ripe for the picking

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Ripe for the picking

KITCHEN DIARY

NIGEL SLATER

baked an earthenware dish of tomatoes this week, the fruits layered in thick slices, with whole basil leaves and a milky dome of burrata peeping through a crust of crisp, golden breadcrumbs. I served them in shallow bowls, with a baguette ripped apart to mop the tomato juices pooling around the cheese. I chose a mixture of fruits of different sizes and ripeness. Gnarled Marmande, orange-fleshed ones and sweet-sharp cherry tomatoes tumbled together. The important point was that they were first lightly fried in a shallow pan before →

'The change of season has brought with it an appetite for pasta suppers but also for mushrooms. I combine them both'

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'The change of season has brought with it an appetite for pasta suppers but also for mushrooms. I combine them both'

being layered in the baking dish. This intensified their flavour, sweetened those not fully ripened and produced a lot of juice for soaking up. The pre-cooking is not essential, but it gives a deeper, richer flavour. Tomatoes thrive on heat, which explains the abundance of good fruits this summer.

This is either a principal dish or to serve on the side, as you wish. Cooked orzo pasta or plump balls of mograbia would be just the ticket for sponging up the tomato juice, as would steamed brown rice or fine couscous. We scoffed it with good bread alone, but this is also something that would sit comfortably with grilled lamb steaks or baked field mushrooms.

The change of season has brought with it an appetite for pasta suppers, but also for mushrooms. I combined them in a single dish this week, an assortment of mushrooms, including a few chanterelles and oyster among the more workaday chestnut and button varieties. A sound way of cooking them is to deal with the firmer, thicker varieties first, they will take longer to cook, then introduce the more fragile ones later, such as the spindly enoki, apricot hued chanterelles and tiny “fairy-hat” shimeji. Such delicate fungi need only a brief introduction to the frying pan.

You could run with the mushroom recipe, scattering it with grated parmesan and baking it to give a bubbling crust, or introduce some lightly boiled, long-stemmed broccoli or steamed spinach. (I ate it with the spinach on the side, but it could just as easily be tucked among the mushrooms.) A budget version might omit the fancier fungi. The cream is also the place to use up any saved parmesan crusts, letting them infuse with the cream for a while before pouring it over the pasta.

On a sweet note, there are some plump, late-season raspberries around. I like them dropped into a glass of sweet wine, preferably one of the muscat variety with a rose-gold hue. There are few prettier ways to end a meal. An alcohol-free alternative might include the fruit layered with whipped cream and crumbled ginger biscuits (not hard gingernuts) and left to soften in the fridge. Also, I am normally reluctant to adulterate a crème brûlée, but a few perfectly ripe raspberries dropped into the custard to find, like hidden treasure, is surely no bad thing.

Mushrooms with orecchiette

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Mushrooms with orecchiette

Serves 4. Ready in 1 hour

onion I, medium

butter 20g, plus a little extra

olive oil 3 tbsp

garlic 2 plump cloves

parmesan 100g, plus extra to serve

orecchiette 200g

assorted mushrooms 400g

dill fronds 10g

double cream 250ml

Peel the onion, cut it in half from root to tip, slice it finely, then put into a saucepan with the oil and butter and let it cook over a moderate heat up until light gold in colour and almost translucent, at least 15-20 minutes.

Peel and thinly slice the garlic, then stir into the onion and continue cooking for a few minutes until the garlic has taken on a little colour.

Finely grate the parmesan. Sort through the mushrooms, trimming any tough stalks, brushing off any growing medium and thickly slicing any button or chestnut varieties.

Put a deep pan of water on to boil and salt it generously. When it comes to the boil, scatter in the orecchiette and let them cook for a good 9 minutes or until tender to the bite.

While the pasta cooks, add the mushroom to the onion and garlic – thickest ones first, fragile, smaller varieties last. Let them cook, adding a little more butter if necessary, stirring now and again, until they are soft and starting to turn gold at the edges. Season nicely with salt and black pepper. Finely chop the dill.

Drain the orecchiette, then stir into the mushroom mixture. Pour the cream into the empty saucepan and add the parmesan and the dill, seasoning it with salt and pepper. Bring the cream almost to the boil.

Put the mushroom and onion mixture into a warmed serving dish, pour over the hot cheese and dill sauce and mix well. If you wish, scatter a little extra parmesan over the surface and bake for 15 minutes at 200C/gas mark 6 to brown the surface.

Baked tomatoes, burrata and basil

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Baked tomatoes, burrata and basil

Shallow dishes such as pasta bowls will be needed here for the tomatoes and their juices.

Serves 2 as main dish, 4 as a side.

assorted tomatoes 800g

olive oil 2-3 tbsp, plus a little extra

large basil leaves 10

burrata 250g

garlic cloves 3

dried breadcrumbs (such as panko) 75g

Heat the oven to 200C/gas mark 6. Thickly slice the tomatoes. Warm 2 tbsp of the olive oil in a shallow pan. When the oil is hot,

fill the pan with a single layer of tomatoes and let them cook for a few minutes, until they have just started to turn gold on the underside.

Using a palette knife or flat metal slice, carefully turn the tomatoes over and cook the other side for a couple of minutes. Remove and place a single layer in the bottom of an oven dish about 25cm in diameter.

Continue with the other tomatoes. While they are cooking, season the tomato slices in the baking dish with salt, pepper and the basil leaves, tucking them in among the fruit. Place the burrata in the middle of the tomatoes, then slit the top and squeeze

to release the soft cheese within. Peel and crush the garlic.

As the tomatoes become ready, place the remaining slices on top of the others. When the pan is empty, pour in a little more oil, then add the crushed garlic, let it sizzle for one minute, then stir in the breadcrumbs and let them fry until crisp and golden. Stir frequently, season with salt and pepper, then scatter over the surface of the tomatoes and cheese.

Dampen the crumbs with a little olive oil. (It will mingle deliciously with the tomato juices as they bake.) Place the dish in the oven and bake for about 25 minutes until bubbling. ●

CHEF AT LARGE

TOMOS PARRY

Flavours built on contrasts

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Flavours built on contrasts

I think the best cooking often comes down to understanding things like what key ingredients need next to them. Duck is a good example. A well-cooked duck breast, with crisp skin and a good layer of fat underneath, is beautiful and doesn't need much adding to it. What it does need is contrast, and chicory has bitterness and crunch, pears bring sweetness and acidity and hazelnuts give another kind of richness without making the dish too heavy. It's quite a traditional combination in some ways, and we tend to have this type of dish at all my restaurants at this time of year.

Aubergines are at their best when you cook them much further than you think you should – the skin black and the flesh inside almost collapsing. Over charcoal is ideal because you get that particular smell of smoke in the flesh, but a very hot grill also works well. Don’t be frightened of burning the outside.

Against that hot, smoky aubergine, I like something cool. Thick yoghurt seasoned with lemon and garlic has enough sharpness to brighten everything up, while tahini gives it some complexity. The onions are cooked slowly in olive oil with aromatics until they are soft and sweet. You need the oil as much as the onions themselves as it carries all those flavours.

These are generous dishes, made for putting in the middle of the table, and they're both quite versatile: the aubergine is good as a side dish with roasted lamb, and feel free to mix up the duck with red radicchio, plums or beetroots – it will work in a similar way.

Duck salad with pear and chicory

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Duck salad with pear and chicory

The important part of this recipe is not to throw away the duck fat. Start the duck breasts in a cold pan and let the fat render slowly.

Serves 4. Ready in 1 hour

duck breasts 2, about 300g each

hazelnuts 40g

chicory heads 3

pears 2, firm but ripe

thyme sprigs 4

shallot 1, small, finely chopped

cider vinegar 2 tbsp

dijon mustard 1 tsp

extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp

Take the duck breasts out of the fridge 30 minutes before cooking. Pat dry and season generously with fine salt.

Put the duck breasts skin-side down into a cold, heavy-based frying pan. Set over a medium-low heat and cook slowly for 10-12 minutes, pouring the fat into a bowl as it builds up. The skin should become deeply golden and crisp. Turn the breasts and cook for 3-5 minutes, depending on their thickness and how pink you like the meat. Transfer to a plate and leave to rest somewhere warm for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, toast the hazelnuts in a dry pan until golden. Leave to cool slightly, then roughly crush. Cut each chicory lengthways into quarters, keeping the root intact so the leaves hold together. Quarter and core the pears, then cut each quarter in half.

Return 1 tbsp of the reserved duck fat to the frying pan over a high heat. Add the chicory, cut-side down, and cook for 2-3 minutes until coloured and beginning to char. Turn briefly, season and transfer to a warm plate. Add the pears to the same pan with the thyme and another spoonful of duck fat if necessary. Cook for 2-3 minutes, turning once, until golden at the edges, but still firm in the middle.

For the dressing, put the shallot, vinegar, mustard and a pinch of salt in a bowl. Leave for 5 minutes, then whisk in 2 tbsp of warm duck fat and the olive oil. Slice the duck breasts fairly thickly. Pour any juices from the resting plate into the dressing. Arrange the chicory and pears on a large platter and lay the sliced duck over them. Spoon over the dressing and finish with the toasted hazelnuts and plenty of black pepper.

Aubergine with onion and yoghurt

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Aubergine with onion and yoghurt

What makes this dish is the contrast of smoke, acidity and sweetness.

Serves 4 as a side. Ready in 45 minutes

aubergines 3, medium-sized

olive oil I tbsp

lemon I

flat-leaf parsley and mint a small

handful, roughly chopped

lemon wedges to serve

For the onion oil: onions 2, medium olive oil 150ml garlic clove I thyme 3 sprigs bay leaf I cumin seeds $\frac{1}{2}$ tsp

For the yoghurt:

thick Greek yoghurt 250g

tahini I tbsp

garlic I small clove, finely grated

zest of ½ lemon finely grated

lemon juice I tbsp

First, make the onion oil. Peel and very thinly slice the onions. Put them in a small saucepan with the oil, garlic, thyme, bay and a good pinch of salt. Cook over a very low heat for 25-30 minutes, stirring occasionally. The onions should become soft, sweet and golden without turning crisp.

Add the cumin seeds for the final 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave the onions to sit in their oil.

Mix the yoghurt with the tahini, garlic, lemon zest and juice. Season with salt and refrigerate until needed.

Heat your grill as hot as it will go. Rub the aubergines lightly with olive oil, place on a tray and grill for 20-25 minutes, turning regularly until blackened all over and very soft. If using a barbecue, get the coals very hot. Cook the aubergines whole directly over the heat, turning regularly, for 15-20 minutes. Leave the aubergines to rest for 5 minutes, then split them lengthways. Season the exposed flesh immediately with salt and a squeeze of lemon.

Spoon the cold yoghurt over a large serving plate. Sit the hot aubergines on top, opening them slightly so plenty of the smoky flesh is exposed. Spoon over the onions and their cumin-scented oil. Finish with another squeeze of lemon and the parsley and mint. Serve immediately. ●

Some grand hotels look inwards and some outwards. Claridge's, where Dante rests, is the second kind. If you can't afford to stay in an icy cloud of a suite here, and most can't, it offers outreach for the desolate: a bakery round the back in Brook's Mews, where I like to buy iced fingers...

RESTAURANTS TANYA GOLD

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RESTAURANTS TANYA GOLD

Dante Claridge's Hotel, Brook Street, London W1 (020 7629 8860, maybourne.com/claridges). Starters £19-£29, mains £24-£70, desserts £9-16, wine from £14/£50 glass/bottle

They are very good iced fingers, they cost £4 each, and since you can pay £10 for a bad sandwich these days, the price seems fair. It includes drama, and there's not a lot of that at Pret.

Claridge's is dramatic by birth: it was built for Richard D'Oyly Carte, Gilbert and Sullivan's producer. In 2021, it vastly increased in size, which for some reason reminded me of the magic porridge pot, which likewise self-replicated. That is not a criticism, not here.

Claridge's has a problem, though, which is interesting for such a skilled hotel. It doesn't know what to do with its restaurant. Not the Foyer & Reading Room, which is for tourists medicating jet lag with tea and scones; nor the ArtSpace Café, which is trench warfare between families and junior fund managers with laptops. I mean the real dining room, with its entrance on Davies Street and small, defensive terrace. I overstate. But that is a lot of hedge, even for Mayfair.

I have reviewed three restaurants in this room: first Fera, with its rustic crockery and ornamental pebbles. It did not fit in an Art Deco palace, and it was never going to: it seemed to hate its parent. I missed Daniel Humm's Davies and Brook, which came next, axed when Humm tried to go plant-based, because Americans visit London to eat flesh not artichokes. Then there was Claridge's Restaurant and its brasserie – that is, happy baby – food. Now we have Dante, a branch of an Italian restaurant in New York City, given first a residency and now, apparently, a permanent slot.

First, the name is wrong: Dante went to hell, and this isn't that. I would say the room is too much for the eyes to process, but then I went to Lilibet's, an exploitative Elizabeth II-themed restaurant, which is more. Dante has pale green walls; darker green banquettes; photographs of hot, possibly dead Italians; Art Deco starbursts in red and yellow glass on the ceiling; insane floristry, including the palest pinkest rose on every table; a white piano. But it is very close to both Davies and Brook and Claridge's Restaurant. If the paint colour, the pictures and the floral centrepiece are different, almost everything else is the same. No great restaurant impersonates something else. It needs an identity of its own and it must love, not contradict, its setting.

This is Italian-American food, which treats America as another province of Italy, and the smashburger as cherished regional dish. Is

Dante, which is nearly empty on a Sunday afternoon, designed to catch whichever rich Italian-American tourists are in London this day to enjoy Art Deco interiors – which is none? We order fazzoletti and pappardelle al ragù; chicken alla diavola (“devil’s chicken”) for the name alone – of course the devil loves a chicken, who doesn’t? – and the smashburger.

The pasta – fazzoletti means “handkerchief”, pappardelle is a wider fettuccine – is slightly overcooked. Genovese pesto clings to the fazzoletti with shredded mozzarella and toasted breadcrumbs: the result is pallid. The pappardelle is better, but ragù is hard to spoil: it has vitality, being flesh. A smashburger is a thin burger, fast cooked to develop a crust. This isn’t a smashburger, being too thick, and I review it as a common burger. It’s good and bloody and I like it, but it didn’t need the home-baked brioche: a shop-bought one would do. I have learned, mostly through studying lasagne, that the near-Michelin version of a simple dish is not usually the best version. There is a ceiling here and it can be reached by the common bun alone.

Devil's chicken, fired with spice, is sticky and not particularly devilish: it does not have enough heat to evoke hell, or anything. It comes with mash and a pool of butter: potato as analgesic, which is what it should be. This room is good at analgesics. I think it is one. The tiramisu is another analgesic, and it is also well done. But the sticky-toffee donut is too much. I should have known when it read its title – three words for one misspelled doughnut? – and saw when it came with vanilla ice-cream. The toffee sauce is too thick, and it buries it; the ice-cream takes the rest. It's a sugar coffin and I'm lying in it.

I struggle to see the point of Dante, at least in Claridge's: it is another uneasy pairing. It needs to solve a riddle that goes beyond itself: what do rich people want to eat, and in Mayfair, a quarter of glut? I suspect the answer is more glut, because if not here, then where? Claridge's needs the defining plutocrat restaurant, because nothing else will meet the interior, and the interior will not change. You should walk in and faint.

It will survive another restaurant that doesn't quite work. Perhaps this dining room will ape the Magic Faraway Tree, and have first one, then another restaurant here: the fourth plinth for the insatiable yet unpleasant. Until then, as we all do, it seeks. ●

TASTES OF THE SEASON

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TASTES OF THE SEASON

ROBERT SAMUEL HANSON

Get shucking

We're back with an "r" in the month, which means native oysters are back on the menu (native oysters spawn in the summer, which affects the texture and taste). Look out for various oyster festivals around the country (Falmouth kicks things off from 8-10 October).

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Get foraging

As Nigel Slater mentions (p37), now is a great time for mushrooms. You can save a fortune on expensive mushrooms by foraging them but only if you know what you're doing, for goodness sake. A mushroom knife helps you make a clean cut, then you can brush away any dirt with the other end (and, basically, any reason to own a new Opinel is a good reason; £26, berryuseful.co.uk).

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Get picking

Some good news from a scorching

Some good news from a scoring summer: all that sun means it has been a great year for English grapes. If you're lucky enough to have a garden vine, you'll be deep in picking and preserving (pickled grapes F'TW). If you don't, there are some lovely imports around - we're

big fans of the wildly perfumed Fragola grape, which tastes less like

the strawberry it's named for and more like fake grape flavour, which is quite weird.

Fine fizz 'n' fast food

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Fine fizz 'n' fast food

Hungry on our first day on holiday in Berlin recently, my family did what almost all green-horn visitors to the city do: we made a beeline for the nearest currywurst kiosk and our first taste of that curious delicacy, with its sauce more sweet than spicy, and its mandatory

accompaniment of chips and a bottle of sourly-tangy, nourishing Berliner weisse beer. Since we were right in the heart of Berlin's tourist zone, by the Brandenburg Gate, we were prepared to be fleeced like a rube buying something (anything at all) in Leicester Square. But the prices (€8.50 for a bratwurst in a bun and a 50cl bottle of beer) were pretty reasonable, right down to the “€259 Menu 5 option: 4 x currywurst with a 75cl bottle of Dom Pérignon”.

Reasonable? Well, I know (I'm not entirely naïve) that the DP was largely there for the WTF factor, the cheeky incongruity of pairing this most sophisticated of champagnes with a low-brow fast food that is meant for wolfing down from a paper plate perched on a stool. But when you consider a bottle of DP routinely goes for £200 or more in wine shops (and supermarkets) back here in the UK, the deal didn't seem so bad.

Neither, frankly, did it seem all that strange or shocking: the idea of pairing fine wine and self-consciously humble food was already there in the notorious Krug and shepherd's pie Christmas parties hosted by per-jurer and occasional novelist Jeffrey Archer in the 1980s and 1990s. And the specific high-low pairing of fine →

Ads. We keep them in check. Whether you love them or hate them.

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Ads. We keep them in check. Whether you love them or hate them.

ASAV

Legal, Decent, Honest and Truthful

DRINKS HANNAH CROSBIE

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DRINKS HANNAH CROSBIE

champagne and hot dogs has a pretty long pedigree of its own, too, having been popularised with some panache in London in the 2010s by Bubbledogs, a champagne-and-hot-dog bar connected to Michelin-starred restaurant the Kitchen Table on Charlotte Street.

Thanks to champagne's naturally fat-cutting acidity and mouth-freshening bubbles, it's a match that works surprisingly well, although if I were looking for a truly satisfying mix of fast food and sparkling wine, I wouldn't start with a hot dog, and the wine in the glass wouldn't have to be champagne.

There's something about the mix of umami flavours and the endlessly satisfying contrast of crunch and succulence in both classic British fish and chips and deep-fried chicken-shop chicken that is irresistible with sparkling wine either from Champagne or made using the same method. The enlivening, cleansing acidity and bubbles, again, have a lot to do with that. But it's also that rich bakery shop yeasty savouriness, a product of the second, fizz-giving fermentation and the time spent in close contact with the dead yeast cells (or lees) in the bottle, that just chimes in perfect like-with-like style with the batter or crumb on the fish and chicken.

I find the extra notch of mouthwatering citrus in English sparkling wine goes especially well with fish and chips; the swirl of fresh lemon, Cox's apple and buttery shortcrust pastry in Artelium English Sparkling Wine 2019 (£38, Marks & Spencer), for example, is ideal for a classic cod or haddock, while both Specially Selected Crémant de Loire NV (£8.99, Aldi), which has a subtle nutty edge to its apple zing, and the lime-and-toast of Codorníu Seleccion Familia Reserva Organic Cava NV (£9.50, down from £13.99 until 10 October, Waitrose), have a way of making any mildly spicy, southern fried chicken – or, for that matter, currywurst – suddenly feel really rather posh.

Wine of the Week

Artelium English

Sparkling Wine 2019

(£38, Marks & Spencer)

PROP STYLING BY ALEXANDER BREEZE; DRINK STYLING BY TARA GARNELL

Zero tolerance

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Zero tolerance

'm not a big believer in much. Star signs are fun insofar as they're personality quizzes. Ghosts are cool, but I don't sage every flat I move into. And I'm pretty comfortably agnostic, so that I'm covered for either eventuality if the existence of a higher being is proved in my lifetime. (I hate being wrong.)

And yet, being brought down by illness for the past two months feels like a smiting from a higher power. After spending perhaps the last five years of my life having at least one drink every evening, the powers that be decided it would best for my liver/brain/energy levels if I chilled the hell out for a bit. I knew it was unhealthy and it was drilled home for me when I finally calculated my units consumed per week and the GP put a marker on me for unhealthy consumption. Yikes.

So, a bit of time off and recalibration was needed, not least so I'm able to continue as a drinks writer for a long while yet. But what if your job necessitates its consumption? What if the thing that anchors your livelihood and career is also something that could kill you? Famously, this was a question pondered by restaurant critic Pete Wells, when he resigned from his role at the New York Times citing health risks.

Obviously, I was still able to go out and look at cocktail menus, enjoy with my eyes what my friends were drinking, and no imbibing for me. But there were a few options that got me through a week, and ended up turning it into a month of no drinking. Who'd'a thunk it!

The world of non-alc is vast and with big marketing budgets, but the drinks are, often, watery and flavourless. The 0% drinks that try to pretend to be spirits really fall short. They're missing the heat of the alcohol so end up tasting flat and synthetic – alcohol is needed to bolster the intense aromas, otherwise it can feel as if you're drinking the liquid from a scent diffuser. They also tend to be so sweet.

If you live in a UK city, you'll have seen the bright egg-yolk yellow of a Botivo bottle winking at you from all the bars. It's is one of those brands with a big marketing budget (I think they had Jeff Goldblum in one of their recent campaigns?), but with a product that backs up its claims. Botivo, while it is widely used in place of a spirit in cocktails, calls itself a “botanical aperitivo”, and it's got the bitterness to balance out the sweetness. I love it simply with soda.

In a similar category, I've also liked Mother Root, a switchel (gingervinegar base) which tastes just as good topped up in a highball glass as it does in shot-form in the morning. It burns, so it has to be good for me.

Non-alcoholic beers have been a godsend. Though the bad are watery and uninspiring, the best taste... the same as a regular beer. My favourites include Erdinger and Estrella. When you can barely taste the difference, you barely feel as if you are missing out. ●

THE QUIZ

“They were looking for someone who could speak Penguinese. I needed the money,” was how voiceover artist David Sant described his work on which animated TV series? Penguins named Pinga and Pingi feature alongside its titular star.

In drawing, what type of hatching involves layering a second set of lines over the first set?

Adam Jonas Horowitz's Stonefridge was installed in Santa Fe, a “megalithic, post-apocalyptic” replica of which monument? Initially built with 200 fridges, it was intended as an “anti-monument” to consumerism and industrial waste.

Which expensive spice comes from the dried stigmas of an autumn-flowering variety of the crocus flower?

Which 1898 sci-fi novel is about an alien invasion that starts in Woking?

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0, really?

What will it be: a piece of cake, or humble pie? Our weekly quiz tests your knowledge of culture, style, history, science - and much more. By Lydia Heaton, a question setter for ITV's The Chase

Which football club adopted its current name approximately 3,236 Wednesdays after their first appearance as the Wednesday Football Club?

The whistleblower Sarah Wynn-Williams worked at which company, now rebranded as Meta? At her appearance at this year's Hay Festival, she had to sit silent and motionless on stage, in order not to breach a legal order obtained by her former employer which bars her from promoting her memoir, Careless People.

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⑧

In which four cities do the “Big Four” fashion weeks take place?

Which pop star runs the Service95 book club, and is lead curator of the London Literature Festival this year? Her hits include Levitating, Illusion and One Kiss.

After seeing the uniforms Issey Miyake created for staff at Sony, Steve Jobs was inspired to have his own personal uniform. What colour was the turtleneck that the designer created for the Apple founder as a signature look?

In Jewish tradition, which fruit is said to have 613 seeds?

In the title song from his album Ready to Die, what does the Notorious BIG describe as the “material for the imperial”? This substance is famed for being nonstick and extremely slippery.

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13

The 2026 European Road Cycling Championships are taking place in which country? Cycling stars from this country include Primož Roglič and Tadej Pogačar.

In 1991, who became the youngest ever fashion director of an international magazine when he took on the role at i-D magazine, aged 18? He later served as editor-in-chief of British Vogue.

The margay and the ocelot are wild types of what animal?

The Great Cheese Riot of 1766 happened during which city's annual Goose Fair? Rioters rolled cheese wheels through the streets and the city's mayor was knocked down by one while attempting to restore order.

At the third edition of the London Film Festival, director François Truffaut turned up to the screening of which of his films without a ticket and unable to speak English? His debut feature, the film is about a misunderstood 12-year-old boy and is now considered a masterpiece.

According to the title of a song by Gil Scott-Heron, what will not be televised? ●

Answers on page 3

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NAKED PAPER

MISSION ON EARTH POLAR LIGHT

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swatch®

Only available at selected Swatch stores

The Observer Sport

📖 中文精读 ↗

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The Observer Sport

Six-page special report on Man City pages 3-8

The week in brief

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The week in brief

Verstappen makes pole

after vast improvement

Max Verstappen's pole position in this morning's Bahrain Grand Prix hints at a new dawn for Red Bull, writes Matt Majendie.

The 29-year-old qualified on pole for the first time this season – a first for a non-Mercedes-powered car in 2026. The four-time world champion's title bid has long since evaporated but his qualifying dominance cemented his place as currently the best on-track challenger to Kimi Antonelli.

Verstappen took the top spot by three tenths of a second from his long-term rival Lewis Hamilton for the grand prix, rehomed in Malaysia because of the ongoing conflict in the Middle East.

£9.3m

Record figure for sale of Michael Jordan's Chicago Bulls 1998 jersey

For Red Bull to find itself in contention for race wins in a first season as an in-house engine supplier is not lost on Verstappen, who was way off the pace earlier in the year.

Since first taking the wheel in Sepang, Verstappen was a class apart despite Mercedes arriving with a long-awaited and much-heralded upgrade package it estimated would gain it three tenths of a second per lap – instead, they found themselves losing time. Team principal Toto Wolff bemoaned having “no performance” but hit back at suggestions they could now fall out of contention.

Meanwhile, Lewis Hamilton was full of praise for Ferrari after a week in which the team had to publicise its full backing for team principal Fred Vasseur after Christian Horner declared an interest in his job.

Jazz Tevaga celebrates with Caius Faatili and Caleb Hamlin-Uele after scoring his side's third. try. Michael Steele/Getty

Wakefield Trinity end 58-year wait for title with brilliant display over Wolves

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Wakefield Trinity end 58-year wait for title with brilliant display over Wolves

Wakefield Trinity became just the sixth side to lift the Super League trophy after defeating Warrington Wolves 23-10 in the Grand Final at Old Trafford.

Trinity joined Wigan, Leeds, St Helens, Bradford and Hull KR as they produced a pulsating display in front of a sold-out crowd in Manchester.

Trinity came into the final having secured a stunning semi-final win over regular season table-toppers Wigan, who themselves were chasing a treble before last Saturday's defeat.

Warrington on the other hand arrived at Old Trafford looking to exorcise the ghosts of Grand Finals past, having made the showpiece event on four occasions but falling short each time.

Prior to the match, legendary

League figure Sir Kevin Sinfield, whose son Jack started the final at scrum-half for Wakefield, carried the trophy onto the pitch after completing his 7 in 7: The Grand Finale challenge. Starting in Hull, Sinfield ran an ultra marathon each day for seven days – raising over a million pounds in the process, and tipping the total figure Sinfield has raised over the course of his seven ultra-running challenges to over £11 million.

Both sides named unchanged teams from their semi-final exploits, and Wakefield drew first blood in the 11th minute after Cam Scott went over thanks to a superb pass from Lachlan Walmsley. Trinity extended their advantage in the 25th minute as Isaiah Vagana after Tom Johnstone outjumped Albert Hopoate to set up the try, and ten minutes later scored their third as Jazz Tevaga scored from close range. Sinfield scored a drop-goal before half-time to send Trinity in 19-0 ahead.

Warrington hit back early in the second half as Ewan Irwin shifted the ball on to Arron Lindop to score, but Wakefield restored their advantage as Johnstone went from provider to finisher to make the score 23-6.

Wolves scored an unconverted try through Arron Lindop with ten minutes to go, but it wasn't enough as Trinity lifted the trophy in front of a rapturous crowd. The victory is even more remarkable given Trinity had been relegated from the Super League in September 2023, before a resurgence in recent seasons under new owner Matt Ellis saw the side end their 58-year wait for a title.

Marathon dates decided by rock, paper, scissors

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Marathon dates decided by rock, paper, scissors

Next year's London Marathon elite races have been decided using the inventive method of a game of rock, paper, scissors. Next year's event is a special one-off two-day affair in which 100,000 participants will take to the streets across the weekend of 24-25 April. But the decision of when the men's and women's elite and wheelchair event will take place was determined by the playground game between women's wheelchair world record holder Catherine Debrunner and men's world record holder Sabastian Sawe – both of whom won last year's race.

Debrunner beat Sawe 2-0 in the best-of-three face-off, and as a result the elite men and men's wheelchair races are set for the Saturday, with the women's races the following day.

IN THE NEW REVIEW

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IN THE NEW REVIEW

"Do people really think I could have won all those trophies just by shouting at people?", asks Sir Alex Ferguson. In an interview with Paul Hayward, the legendary manager shares the secrets of his gift for inspiring young players and his fears for the future.

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On the cover

Jude Bellingham

embraces

Harry Kane in

England's 7-0

demolition of

Croatia

Marko Perkov/ AFP via Getty

[Said & done by Andrew Butler] Flipping Hull

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[Said & done by Andrew Butler] Flipping Hull

Extraordinary happenings near Hull City's training ground in Cottingham. French summer signing Lucas Gourna-Douath reportedly became the second Tigers player to flip his car outside the facility, three weeks after winger Sorba Thomas rolled his car on the same narrow road. Both players were uninjured.

Walthamstow wait is over

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Walthamstow wait is over

A fantastic achievement from Walthamstow FC's Nathan Smith, who set a new club record for the longest time between two goals. Smith scored in the Isthmian League side's 9-0 win over Lowestoft last weekend – a whopping 19 years, seven months and nine days after his previous goal for the East London club.

Flock to the rock

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Flock to the rock

The Mo Salah effect is in full flow in Turkey. After posting a picture on an innocuous-looking rock in Trabzon's highlands, the spot has become a hotspot, with fans flocking to visit the rock. A sign and bench were erected – until they were reportedly stolen from the site. Local media report that security cameras may be installed.

Age is just a Bamber

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Age is just a Bamber

Warwickshire title-winner Ethan Bamber told Cricinfo that “the ship has sailed” on his England chances. But at just 27 years old he should take some encouragement from others who made their Test debuts later in life. They include Graeme Swann (who was 29), Jonathan Trott (28), Brydon Carse (29), Joe Denly (32) and John Childs (36).

[A week is a long time... in football] Since the City verdict, the stakes have rapidly escalated, writes Rory Smith

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[A week is a long time... in football] Since the City verdict, the stakes have rapidly escalated, writes Rory Smith

Things used to be so innocent. It is hard to remember, now, but there was a time – not really so long ago – when football was a simple game. Jumpers for goalposts. Flying wingers. Arsenal's blitz offence at corners. Four-minute delays as we crossed to Stockley Park to discover if Enzo Fernández was offside.

It seems like only last week, for example, that Manchester City were overwhelmingly found guilty of breaching the Premier League's financial rules on an industrial scale; it feels like just a few days ago that the independent panel that heard the case published its core decision, at last exposing to sunlight what appears to be the greatest cheating scandal in the English game's history.

Somehow, everything that has happened since then has not only had the effect of stretching the last week into an aeon, but has turned that blissful period when all we had to worry about was the effect of City's disgrace on the continued viability of the Premier League as a sporting competition into something approaching a halcyon age.

How naive we were. Since the Premier League published the panel's “final award” on Tuesday – subject to appeal, City strenuously protest their innocence, comprehensive body of irrefutable proof etcetera – the case has broken containment. Somehow, what all of this means for the Premier League is now the least of our worries.

We have known for some time, of course, that football is important. The Premier League is important. The game is the last great collective cultural form, the one shared global obsession that cannot be completely fractured by algorithms, and England's top flight – by hook and often by crook – sits at the sharp end of that. It ranks among this country's greatest soft-power exports. What we could not have grasped, not fully, until the shockwaves of the City case started to ripple out, was just how central it had become, how deeply enmeshed it had grown with politics, with the economy, with diplomacy.

Football has always been treated as a sideshow, a distraction from all the things that really matter. It turns out it is the thing that matters.

Rock and a hard place: Andy Burnham, above with City chair Khaldoon Al Mubarak, needs to mollify an ally which could cost his credibility.

Paul Ellis/AFP/

Getty Images

There have, over the last week, been two timelines. The first is the sporting one. The panel's overall verdict – finding City guilty of all but one of the hundred-plus they faced, ranging from non-cooperation to disguising the source of some of their commercial funding – landed last Friday.

City released a terse statement. The club's chairman, Khaldoon Al Mubarak, released a slightly more detailed one on Saturday.

On Tuesday, the publication of the panel's findings revealed just how scathing the decision was, just how deep the offences ran. Many of City's commercial arrangements, they determined, were shams. They accused some of the club's witnesses of knowingly misrepresenting information, a legalese euphemism for lying.

There were statements from the Premier League and the club. Ferran Soriano, City's CEO, sent a video

to club staff in which he spoke for three minutes without blinking. On Thursday evening, City lodged their formal appeal.

On Friday, amid another blizzard of statements, they confirmed they had done so.

All of that might have been anticipated. It followed a recognisable pattern: claim and counterclaim, call and response, albeit one that had at its heart something that felt like an existential matter for the league itself.

More startling was the constant buzzing of the second timeline. Not the guesswork about how City might appeal, or the panting speculation about how they might be punished, or the constant bleating about the rules preventing owners investing in football, but the rapid escalation in the stakes: a controversy that has its roots in enabling a football team to sign Eliaquim Mangala suddenly metastasising into a full-blown international incident.

it might have been involved in the so-called “Disguised Funding Scheme”. The company has, it has been suggested, retained the famously aggressive Quinn Emanuel for their counter-attack.

Etihad Airways, City's anchor sponsor, started things off, threatening to sue the Premier League for bringing its good name into disrepute by suggesting that

By the end of the week, even that seemed like small fry: Bloomberg was reporting that officials in the United Arab Emirates had warned the decision might affect bilateral trade with the United Kingdom, while the Telegraph suggested that the country might pull investment from a high-tech corridor between Oxford and Cambridge that might eventually be worth £78 billion to the British economy.

Downing Street had, reportedly, "not denied" that the funding might be at stake.

Those threats, of course, raise a number of questions: why would the UAE respond so furiously at the prospect of a club it has always said it does not own being punished? And why would an autocratic regime unaccustomed to being held accountable feel the need to be so aggressive when City, famously, have a comprehensive body of irrefutable proof of their innocence?

Thus far, the man who would have to resist them, the prime minister, does not seem to have been able to come up with an answer to this.

His first intervention on the subject seemed to linger longer than might have been expected on his belief that Everton, found guilty of much more minor offences a few years ago, were harshly treated. He then suggested that he would be “concerned” at the prospect of “losing” City’s owners, given all they have done for Manchester.

‘Burnham is the man to have to resist them but does not seem to have the answer’

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‘Burnham is the man to have to resist them but does not seem to have the answer’

He later clarified those comments – not once, but twice – but his vulnerability on the issue is now plain to see. He will know now that his initial remarks misread the public mood. He will know, too, that this is now not merely a Premier League issue.

Dame Meg Hillier, chair of the Treasury Select Committee, has asked HMRC to investigate the potential tax implications of City's financial sleight of hand; Liam Byrne, chair of the House of Commons' business committee, has requested the Financial Reporting Council to look into what might constitute a “serious failure of scrutiny” from City's auditors.

That leaves Burnham in an invidious position, caught between the need to mollify an ally and a growing sense that doing so would not only cost him his credibility but might even paint the country as a whole as powerless to stand up to the absolutist monarchy of a petro-state.

The Premier League has long been how Britain has presented itself to the world. What happens now will be a test of how the world sees Britain.

It's too late to end Premier League's relationship with states

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It's too late to end Premier League's relationship with states

Even if City's owners sell up, England's top flight has already welcomed Abramovich and PIF with open arms, writes George Simms

So, you think nation states shouldn't be able to own football clubs. An admirable cause. The right one, probably, though a little late, if

I'm being harsh. Except, of course, in the Premier League's eyes, this isn't actually a problem, because no nation state owns any of its clubs.

Manchester City's appeal, insofar as it extends beyond “I’m not sure you heard us the first time”, hinges on Sheikh Mansour and his Abu Dhabi United Group (ADUG) for Development and Investment’s separation from the Emirati government. This, as the independent commission already found, is about as distinct a separation as Tyler Durden and The Narrator in Fight Club, but is one that the Premier League maintains exists, as it has for the past 18 years.

Mansour is vice-president of the UAE, and the president's brother. In a non-exhaustive list, City chair Khaldoon Al Mubarak is de facto prime minister of Abu Dhabi, CEO and managing director of a sovereign wealth fund, UAE presidential special envoy to China and its main liaison with the US,

and chair of numerous banks and energy boards. Any government funding to City's sponsors likely required at least some element of: "Do you fancy propping up this sponsorship deal, Khaldoon?" "Now you mention it, that sounds like a cracking idea, Khaldoon."

Beyond Manchester, had Saudi Arabia's sovereign wealth fund (PIF) and its chair Mohammed bin Salman not been deemed sufficiently separate from the wider state of Saudi Arabia and its Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman, the Newcastle United takeover would not have passed the Premier League's owners and directors' test. And yet it did, because ultimately the Premier League isn't in the habit of turning down inordinate sums of money.

What would regulations to block any state actors from owning clubs actually look like? Money and power are inseparable, and buying a Premier League club requires a lot of one and at least some of the other. You should not be able to own a club if you hold any government position, sure, but what if it's ceremonial, or if you've just stepped down? Should you not be able to join a consortium?

What if you're a royal but have limited power or influence (imagine Prince Harry trying to buy Brentford)? What if you own, for example, the fifth-largest company in the world by market cap, one with numerous state contracts and significant influence, as well as a major national newspaper in your country?

Where do you draw the line? Roman Abramovich was close to Vladimir Putin, but no one earnestly believes Big Bad Vlad was deciding whether Chelsea needed a new No 9. Remember Sheikh Jassim bin Hamad Al Thani and his £5 billion bid to buy Manchester United? From the little we knew,

Sheikh down

Key figures from

the boardroom

to the dugout

Abdulla Khouri Board 2018-

Sheikh Mansour

Owner 2008-

Owner of Manchester City and majority shareholder of its parent company City Football Group. Mansour bought the club in 2008 and holds a 81% stake. He is a deputy prime minister and vice-president of the United Arab Emirates.

Alberto Galassi Board 2012-

THE BOARD

Khaldoon Al Mubarak

Chairman 2008-

Al Mubarak over-•• sees day-to-day operations of the club and has developed it from a mid-table Premier League club to a footballing behemoth. Al Mubarak is also CEO of Mubadala Investment Company, which manages \$85bn of assets around the world. According to the Financial Times, Mubadala has been lead investor in a partnership that has generated £30bn in investment commitments from the UAE into the UK.

Simon Pearce Board 2008-

Board member of Manchester City and senior adviser to the Abu Dhabi leadership. Peace joined the UAE's executive affairs authority, which provides strategic advice to the president, in 2006. He was appointed to the City board in 2008 and managed the takeover process. Pearce wrote several of the emails at the centre of the Premier League's case against City. According to Der Spiegel, asked by Chumillas if City were allowed to change the date of sponsorship payments, Pearce is alleged to have replied: "Of course. We can do what we want."

John MacBeath Board 2010-

Simon Cliff

General counsel 2009-

Cliff was part of the legal team that represented Abu Dhabi United Group on the takeover in 2008, then became general counsel of the club the following year. He became general counsel for City Football Group in 2013. Der Spiegel reported that Cliff coined the term “Project Longbow”, designed to boost revenues and reduce losses. Project Longbow was legitimate but the Premier League said in its verdict that one of its strands, the “Fordham Arrangement”, was “little more than a front for ADUG”.

Ferran Soriano CEO 2012-

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Ferran Soriano CEO 2012-

Soriano was appointed in September 2012, and has been the most visible member of the club's leadership throughout the current crisis. In a leaked video sent to City staff this week, Soriano said the guilty verdict was based on "a single false accusation" and a "Premier League conspiracy theory".

Jorge Chumillas CFO 2013-16

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Jorge Chumillas CFO 2013-16

Former CFO of City Football Group. He joined the club in 2013 and left in 2016 due to ill health. Chumillas's name features in the leaked emails published by Der Spiegel in 2018 that details internal sponsorship funding.

Mohamed Mubarak Al Mazrouei Board 2010-22

Martin Edelman Board 2008-

Mark Hughes

Manager

2008-09

Manuel Pellegrini Manager 2013-16

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Manuel Pellegrini Manager 2013-16

Roberto Mancini

Manager 2009-13

Brian Kidd

Caretaker

manager 2013

Former manager of Manchester City. Mancini led the club between 2009 and 2013, winning their first Premier League title in 2012. His contract arrangements via Al Jazira, a club also owned by Sheikh Mansour, have come under scrutiny. Mancini, who now manages the Italian national team, said in 2023 that “I have paid my taxes, it is all above board”. Asked to respond to the verdict last week, before it was confirmed, he said: “Manchester City has not been found guilty, and on the double contract it isn’t my concern. It’s their issue, not mine.”

Graham Wallace COO & CFO 2009-12

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Graham Wallace COO & CFO 2009-12

Tom Glick

CCO & COO

2012-15

Garry Cook CEO 2008-11 Board 2008-11

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Garry Cook CEO 2008-11 Board 2008-11

Former CEO of Manchester City. Cook was in the role from 2008 to 2011. He oversaw the transition from Thaksin Shinawatra to Sheikh Mansour during the September 2008 takeover.

Txiki Begiristain Director of football 2012-25

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Txiki Begiristain Director of football 2012-25

Former director of football at Manchester City. Begiristain, who had an illustrious playing career for Barcelona and Spain, managed club operations at City between 2012 and 2025.

Pep Guardiola Manager 2016-26

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Pep Guardiola Manager 2016-26

Manager of Manchester City throughout the Premier League investigation. Guardiola won 20 trophies, including six league titles, during his decade-long tenure at the club. He repeatedly defended City when asked about the charges, saying in 2023 when they were first announced that his “first thought is we’re already being condemned”. Responding to the verdict last week, he told the club’s fans: “I am here – more than ever.”

Omar

Berrada

COO

2016-20

Enzo Maresca Manager 2026-

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Enzo Maresca Manager 2026-

Succeeded Guardiola in June of this year, saying that he had no concerns about the Premier League charges. This is his third stint at the club after a season managing the Elite Development squad in 2020–21, and a season as one of Guardiola's assistants.

Mikel Arteta

Coach 2016-19

Former assistant coach at Manchester City, now manager of Arsenal, Arteta previously said that he witnessed no evidence of potential wrongdoing when he was working at City. He is yet to comment on the Premier League's verdict.

Special report Manchester City

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Special report Manchester City

Jassim was chairman of Qatar Islamic Bank, a publicly traded bank, son of a former Qatari prime minister and is the brother of the current Emir.

Jassim's representatives always denied he was the soft face of a Qatari state bid, but human rights organisation FairSquare wrote to Uefa and the Premier League that "a basic study of Qatar's political and economic system amply demonstrates the impossibility of any Qatari consortium proving itself independent of state influence". Jassim's bid included a bank guarantee signed by the chief executive of Qatar National Bank, half-owned by the Qatari government via its sovereign wealth fund.

So, should Jassim have not been allowed to own the club of which he appeared to be a legitimate, longstanding fan because of an ultimately unprovable connection to a government in which he holds no role?

The Premier League would have had sweet, sweet plausible deniability, and it is difficult to imagine a defensible set of regulations that would have blocked his takeover, short of an effective ban on anyone from most Gulf states owning football clubs. Anyway, luckily United swerved Jassim and got – checks notes – Sir Jim “I’m so worried about Britain that here are some verbal grenades from Monaco” Ratcliffe.

But perhaps the fundamental question today is: once you've invited the tiger for tea, once you've let it eat all your food and drink the taps dry, how do you ask it to Foxtrot Oscar back from where it came? This, in theory, is where the Independent Football Regulator (IFR) comes in.

This week, IFR chair David Kogan said it has “powers to assess the suitability of owners, directors

and executives and we will use these powers where appropriate, in the interests of protecting the sustainability, honesty and integrity of English football where there is clear evidence of wrongdoing by individuals". Of course, it is yet to demonstrate those powers, to clarify what assessing suitability actually entails, to prove it doesn't matter that the prime minister would be "really concerned" to lose ADUG from Manchester.

Even if the IFR can expel Mansour and Al Mubarak, so long as the PIF owns Newcastle, banning state actors from the Premier League would be somewhere between incoherently hypocritical and logistically impossible, coupled with the complication of Qatar still owning Paris Saint-Germain. Of course, various human rights-based justifications exist for the IFR to strip Newcastle from the PIF and Saudi Arabia, but the vast majority of these also existed in 2021 when the takeover occurred.

And as with the UAE, stripping Newcastle from the PIF would trigger a major diplomatic incident with a British ally – we're just over a decade on from government buildings across London flying flags at half-mast after King Abdullah's death. English football, and particularly the Premier League, is really just reflecting the nation around it.

None of this is to say that nothing should change, that the Premier League's ownership rules do not require fundamental reform, but this is a problem far beyond football, the problem that money – from state actors or your dime-a-dozen billionaire – buys impunity and silence and permission, that accountability is for the little people.

So, you think nation states shouldn't be able to own football clubs. An admirable cause. Though I doubt it will matter in the end.

Special report

Manchester City

Man City player agents left in limbo after summer splurge

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Man City player agents left in limbo after summer splurge

Some of the club's biggest stars are bound to move if sanctions hit hard, writes Rob Draper

Penny for the thoughts of Elliot Anderson, Enzo Fernández, Ayyoub Bouaddi and Illiman Ndiaye this weekend – or more specifically their agents. Last week, ESPN reported that Manchester City had been informed in July that they had been found guilty of Premier League charges, the same time as they were preparing bids for and finalising deals on a record-breaking transfer window.

Binding yourself to a long-term contract at a club which conceivably could now be relegated if City's appeal, launched on Thursday, fails, seems like ultimate buyer's regret. Anderson, who cost £116 million, was a record fee for a British player while Fernández, at £125m, was a joint-Premier League record figure. It's unclear exactly what was said to those players signing for City this summer as the club declined to comment on the reports. But splashing out £458m in deals – even if they recouped around £277m in sales – was an astonishing bet on the club's future and their innocence if City did know what was coming.

However, an agent who has dealt with City extensively in the past and who raised the issue of the 115 charges with them gives an indication of how

Buyer's regret: Elliott Anderson (right) and Enzo Fernández (left) could find themselves relegated if their new club does not win appeal. Shaun Brooks/ CameraSport/ Getty Images

confident they have been. “They told us: ‘It’s going to get sorted.’ They said they had done nothing wrong. They were absolutely convinced they had done no wrong.” The agent in question remained sceptical but expediently anticipated some kind of plea-bargain compromise with the Premier League. And the player wished to sign for City – as most would – so eventually the deal was done.

For now most City players will be placing their faith in the bullish response of Manchester City and assuming the judgment will be overturned by City's lawyers, just as a Uefa ban was at the Court of Arbitration for Sport (Cas) in 2020.

However, agents will be aware that Cas ruled in favour of City partly because the most serious evidence of wrongdoing was time-barred but principally because Uefa proceeded without securing the evidence. City refused to disclose their internal emails and Uefa gave up trying to make them.

The Premier League, on the other hand, has no time bar for offences – hence they go back to 2009 – and also fought and won a lengthy and expensive arbitration case with City to force the club to disclose all the documents. In short, this judgment is much more serious for the club, harder to overturn and is causing concern among agents with players at City.

“They [agents] will be looking at whether they will get their commissions paid in full,” said one agent. “You get paid commission season by season, over the length of the contract. And I imagine you would be thinking: ‘I’ve had my first £500,000, but am I getting any more out of this [if City are relegated]? So where do I get him to a club that’s going to get us the same money and he’ll be happy?’ There are not many clubs of the same size out there. Players like Antoine Semenyo, Erling Haaland, Phil Foden, Anderson [and] Fernández will find other clubs to pay them their wages, particularly if they’re going cheap. But there are others on £150,000 a week who will struggle and be stuck at City.”

The appeal is now in process, although sanctions could be announced before that is completed. However, sanctions may not apply until the appeal has concluded and then could be further delayed by City appealing the sanctions themselves. At which point the summer transfer window will be looming, meaning a nerve-racking game of stick or twist for agents and players.

In the worst-case scenario for City, with relegation or multi-year punishments making them uncompetitive, agents will be rushing to prepare escape routes. However, they will be wary of moving too soon, just in case there is an “Agüerooo” moment in the courtroom. If City were to be vindicated or even just mitigate the sanctions, they could remain a financial force rather than the sinking ship they look like right now. And no one wants to get on the wrong side of the money in Premier League football.

Etihad clash reminder of City Women's ties to club's 114 charges

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Etihad clash reminder of City Women's ties to club's 114 charges

Jessy

Parker Humphreys

There was not much to suggest a club under existential threat on Thursday as Manchester City Women became the first City side to play publicly since the Premier League announced that an independent commission had found the club “guilty of all financial charges”. Some fans sang Sheikh Mansour’s name during their 1-1 draw with Real Madrid, but the majority stuck to the more familiar songbook aimed at the women’s team.

The main narrative has been that the charges bear little relation to City's women's team, and if anything, the criticism levelled at City over the years has been that their owners have not spent enough money on the women's side.

City's arrival in the WSL was controversial. The FA announced one game into the 2013 season that Doncaster Belles would be relegated to the second division for 2014, with the newly revamped City taking their place in the division. The Belles won two league titles and six FA Cups across the 1980s and 1990s, so the decision was deeply disputed. It gave the impression that the FA was cosying up to a bigger club which had not previously invested in the women's game, just because it had greater financial backing. The fact

that the independent commission has now shown that the club was flagrantly breaching Premier League rules during that period makes that decision by the FA look egregious, but it is water long under the bridge.

City did not put much money into the team in 2014 however, and even examining more recent accounts of the women's team, they fall far behind Chelsea and Arsenal in that regard. Chelsea reported commercial revenue of more than £16 million

in 2024-25, while reported commercial and group income of £13.5m. City meanwhile were just below £7m.

Arsenal revenue

City Women's manager Andrée Jeglertz would not comment on whether the women's team would be affected, but said it was "business as usual". The players are said to be unfazed by the noise surrounding the men's half of the club. It is also understood that the WSL will not investigate the women's team in any way.

It undeniably helps that City have struggled to have sustained domestic success. After first winning the WSL in 2016, they waited a decade to win it again, and although they have won eight further domestic trophies in that time, their success pales into insignificance compared to Chelsea.

Anything from the sale of the club to multiple men's relegations could alter the course of the women's team, whether in terms of financial backing or club image. Sanctions may put players off joining, but

there are very few women's sides as wealthy as City. It is also notable that last month City launched women's game is with the squad-cost regulations being used in the WSL on a formal basis for the first time this season. These limit salary caps to $80\%$ of revenue, with only an allowable top-up of £4m or $25\%$ of the team's revenue permitted from the ownership, whichever is higher.

One question that the Premier League verdict poses – to all leagues – is how well it is able to audit information that clubs are providing. This is made harder in the women's game, where commercial contracts might sit across both teams.

team, further emphasising the distinction between them and the men's side.

Where the decision might most impact the

City face Arsenal at the Etihad on Sunday in one of their biggest games of the season. The game's atmosphere may depend on how much Arsenal fans are paying attention to the scandal rather than their own team's poor form. While there is no direct link between the men's team's situation and the women's team's existence, when they walk out of the tunnel at a ground covered in the branding of one of those "sham" deals, they may still feel implicated.

Old vs new: Roy Evans (right); Leanne Donnelly (far right) in front of her Lunch Box cafe in Ancoats. Amit Lennon Photography

‘My brother was a keen kayaker. The canals around here were part of a network called the Cheshire Loop. He said it was where you could not canoe on your own’

Roy Evans

'Apparently the cafe's getting torn down, but I've heard it so often that I'll believe it when it's definitely happening. I can cook bacon and eggs anywhere'

Leanne Donnelly

Look at Manchester, no wonder Burnham is torn

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Look at Manchester, no wonder Burnham is torn

Prime minister was mayor during gentrification but the future is uncertain. By Rory Smith

The pencil hovers over the sketchpad delicately perched on Roy Evans's knees as he sits in a foldable camping chair, considering the angles of the painstakingly restored saw-tooth roof of Stubbs Mill.

Evans will happily draw anything - his book is filled with country churches, stone bridges, grand facades – on his weekly outings with the Manchester division of a group known as the Urban Sketchers. “It’s a bit like Hell’s Angels, in that it’s a movement with chapters all over the world,” he says. This is probably where the similarities end.

His favourites, though, are generally places like Stubbs Mill, originally a Victorian factory producing machines for the cotton trade but revived over the past decade as the European headquarters of Fanatics, the global sports merchandise behemoth.

"I like that contrast between the old and the new," he says.

Ancoats and New Islington were once the flywheel of the Industrial Revolution, but by the end of the 20th century they had fallen into disrepair, the mills abandoned, the warehouses derelict, the chimneys that had belched black smoke into the air long since extinguished.

It was not, at that stage, the sort of place where someone might sit on a street corner and idly doodle. "My brother was a keen kayaker," Evans says. "The canals around here were part of a network called the Cheshire Loop. He said this was the only part of it where you couldn't canoe on your own."

The change in the past 10 years is absolute. Sleek apartment blocks have sprung up along wharfs filled with swans and narrowboats. The mills and the warehouses have been repointed, revamped, repurposed as co-working spaces and pilates studios, wastelands transformed into green spaces, a place that was once a theme park for post-industrial decay turned into an advert for 21st-century urbanism.

There is no shortage of developments like this around the world. Cotton Field Wharf, Smith's Yard and the rest are not markedly different from Coal Drops Yard or Paddington Basin in London, Chelsea Market in New York or Fitzroy in Melbourne: the same red-brick chic, the same coffee shops selling jambon-beurres at £6 a pop. The stylistic hegemony is so great that the Qatari authorities built one, Msheireb, for the 2022 World Cup, skipping the “industrial” bit in “post-industrial” in the process.

What distinguishes the regenerated streets of Ancoats and New Islington, of course, is their broader significance. It is precisely the sort of project, blending the old and new, the public and private, that symbolises the enigmatic political philosophy that has come to be known as Manchesterism and swept Andy Burnham from the city's mayor to the post of prime minister.

They are also the primary fruits of the union between the city of Manchester and the owners of Manchester City. Manchester Life, a joint venture between the council and Abu Dhabi United Group (ADUG), the private-equity vehicle that owns the club, has developed six apartment buildings – all within a short walk of each other – since acquiring the land in 2014. That investment has long attracted criticism and controversy. Although the development provided almost 1,500 homes, none of them were classified as affordable housing in a city with an urgent need for it. Instead, about a quarter were made available for sale, with the rest assigned as rental properties.

In 2019, the Sunday Times reported that none of that income went to the council. A 2022 study by a team from the University of Sheffield found that, instead, they were directed to holding companies registered in Jersey. They suggested that, by leasing the land necessary for the developments to ADUG at less than market rate, the council had signed a “bad deal” for

Burnham praised the club owners' role in building the modern Manchester

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Burnham praised the club owners' role in building the modern Manchester

Manchester, transferring “public wealth to private hands”.

The council has always rejected that characterisation, telling the Guardian this week that it had been “debunked” several times, choosing instead to focus on not just the tax income from the developments but the impact they have had on a forlorn part of the city.

Burnham echoed that stance this week when he praised the role the club's owners have played in building the modern Manchester. At one point – before a hurried clarification from his press office – the prime minister almost seemed to quote the banner that has long hung from one of the stands at the Etihad Stadium: “Manchester thanks you, Sheikh Mansour.”

Walking around the developments, there is little doubt about the difference it has made. “A lot of it down there was wasteland for ages,” said Leanne Donnelly, the owner of the Ancoats Lunch Box, a cafe almost exactly halfway between the wharfs and the Etihad Campus, the vast tract of land contiguous to the stadium that houses City’s training facilities, as well as stadiums for its youth and women’s teams and, most recently, the black box of the Co-Op Live concert venue.

Under this ownership, City have done no little community work, but there should be no illusion that Manchester Life is part of it. It is a real-estate investment, a business opportunity. Still: nobody disputes that it has been beneficial. “You can feel the change,” Donnelly said.

The impact, though, is not even. Gentrification has yet to arrive in Donnelly's part of Ancoats. She receives occasional letters – and, more frequently, spots announcements in the Manchester Evening News – telling her that one plan or another is going to transform the area, whether they are linked to City's owners or not.

"There's one that is meant to have a lido," she said. "Apparently the cafe's getting torn down, but I've heard it so often that I'll believe it when I'm told it's definitely happening." She does not seem especially concerned by any of it. "I can cook bacon and eggs anywhere."

She has seen benefits to the development going on near, if not exactly around, her. Some have been direct – “we got the workers when they built the Asda, and the tram, and the stadium, and the arena” – and some probably classify as ancillary. “It’s nice to hear the noise when City score,” she said, slightly grudgingly (her family loyalties lie elsewhere). “And I got to hear Take That for free.”

But for the time being at least, this part of the city is not Burnham's Manchester or Abu Dhabi's Manchester: it is, instead, an in-between sort of a place, full of garages and scrapyards and low-slung prefabs housing electrical wholesalers, waiting – nervously, excitedly – for someone else's sketch of the future to be imposed on it.

Rory Smith

City's ‘lone ranger’ mentality is threat to what made Premier League great

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City's ‘lone ranger’ mentality is threat to what made Premier League great

Once the principle of collectivism is gone, where is the incentive for English football's more traditional powerhouses – Manchester United, Arsenal, Liverpool – to keep up appearances?

To paraphrase Super Hans: the secret ingredient is co-operation. Over the past three decades, that has been the

single most important thing in transforming English football from a backwater into a gleaming citadel, a monument in glass and steel, dwarfing the rest of the game.

History played a part, obviously. The style of play was a factor. Packed stadiums meant an evocative backdrop. Little tricks – like ensuring the microphones around the pitch captured the noise of the crowd, rather than the players – made for a more compelling television product. And there is the language advantage, too, the fact it all takes place in English.

The rise of the Premier League might frequently have been presented as some sort of evolutionary inevitability, a reasserting of the game's natural order, but the reality is a little bit less manifest destiny. The Premier League has thrived because, right from the start, the principle of collectivism was baked into its source code. The Founder Members' Agreement – the document that laid out how the league would work if, and when, it broke away from the Football League – is the distinctly grandiose name given to the single sheet of paper, composed over the course of one two-hour meeting, which has come to possess the status of a holy writ, immutable and eternal.

It is there that the basic commandments of what would become the Premier League were first written: that each club would have a single vote, that decisions would be made with a two-thirds majority, and that the television revenue the breakaway league earned would be shared equitably between its members.

Reaching that decision required some compromise. Some owners, including Wimbledon's Sam Hammam, wanted to adopt the NFL's approach, and a straight split: taking the total sum and dividing it by the number of teams. Representatives of some of the larger clubs – what we would now call a cartel – felt they had a right to take the lion's share.

Robert Chase, the Norwich City chairman, was the one who solved the riddle. He did not mind finishing the season having made less money than Arsenal, he told the meeting, but he objected firmly to starting the campaign knowing it would end that way, no matter how the two teams performed.

And so the clubs decided on a formula. Domestic broadcast

In retrospect, that decision was a masterstroke. Effectively, it enshrined in the league the competitive balance that would – although, until relatively recently, massively exaggerated – become its calling card. In what is otherwise a monument to the full throttle, dog-eat-dog Thatcherism of most of the rich white men at that meeting, it is a little sliver of American-style sporting socialism, one that binds the otherwise oppositional members of the league together in mutual interest, to ensure that a rising tide lifts all boats. The success of the Premier League, 35 years on, is proof of its importance.

revenue would be shared on a 50/25/25 ratio: half distributed equally, a quarter according to performance, and a quarter according to the number of TV appearances each club made. International television income was added almost as a footnote, but followed the same pattern.

That it is threatened by the mushroom cloud of fallout from the Manchester City case is something of an understatement. We can still, at this stage, only really guess at the outline of how City have appealed against the damning findings of the independent panel convened to rule on more than 100 charges of breaches of the Premier League's financial rules, over the course of a decade.

And yet it seems clear that absolutely nothing is off the table, that the club – having already been found to have failed to act “in the utmost good faith” with the investigation – are prepared to burn the whole thing down in order to purge the merest suggestion of wrongdoing: to gum up the competition with legal action for as long as necessary, to use political and diplomatic pressure, to call into question the legitimacy of the panel, the rules, even the league itself.

Blue moon setting? The Man City case threatens consensus the Premier League was founded on Simon Stacpoole/Getty

All of this might be considered quite odd for a team that has a comprehensive body of conclusive proof of their own indisputable innocence, but even leaving that aside, the effect of all this seems fairly clear. Ferran Soriano, their chief executive, once wrote about his desire to see his former team,

Barcelona, “win every game” rather than help their domestic rivals grow. City have internalised that logic. Their interests and those of the league no longer dovetail.

There are those who might welcome that, who would suggest that the rules as they stand are rigged to favour the established elite, who believe banning owners from investing in their own clubs is counter-intuitive, who are convinced we should let the market rip.

Strangely, though, that appears only to work one way. In this telling, City (and others) should be allowed to use the inbuilt advantage of their owners' immense wealth but those sides they seek to overturn should not. In a wholly free market, for example, why would Manchester United, Liverpool and Arsenal – the league's three biggest draws, by some distance – want to share television revenue? Why would they pretend their self-interest aligned with everyone else's? Once that principle of collectivism is gone, not worth the single piece of paper it is written on, why would anyone continue to abide by it?

England show they know how to save their best for when they need it least

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England show they know how to save their best for when they need it least

Thomas Tuchel's side were so dominant against Croatia it verged on the absurd

Croatia

England

AH. Kane (8, 53)

J. Bellingham (21)

A. Gordon (39)

B. Saka (45, 68)

M. Rogers (87)

George Simms

Stadion Rijeka

Can we play you every week? No, like, seriously? It would really, really help us out if we could play you every week. It just isn't the same against those other guys. England conjured up their best 45 minutes since they last faced Croatia, devastatingly fast and fluid and intentional, an exhibition of both what this team is capable of and how far some recent performances have been from that.

In front of 6,000 Croat schoolchildren – fans older than 14 were banned for racially abusing French players last year – at points this could have been enough to put these kids off the sport for life. In the past three decades, England have only scored more goals away from the UK in matches against San Marino.

But really this game should be remembered for Alex Scott's first England start, a beautifully smooth yet tenacious footballer, the Spanish midfielder this country supposedly doesn't produce. Taking Kobbie Mainoo to the World Cup despite clearly not trusting him was Thomas Tuchel's most obvious error this summer, a fact he has intimated to Scott. Scott and Elliot Anderson started together in the 2025 Under-21 Euro-winning squad and clearly complement each other in a way Anderson and Rice don't, compensate for each other's weaknesses and accentuate strengths. His ability to control pace and recycle possession should make him a genuine competitor for Rice or Anderson's positions.

And here was the clearest evidence yet that Harry Kane, Jude Bellingham, Bukayo Saka and Anthony Gordon might be the most gifted, dangerous and well-balanced attacking quartet of any team, club or country, having forged a remarkable coherence and mutual understanding that simply didn't exist six months ago. These were Kane's 10th and 11th England goals of 2026, the third calendar year in which he has reached double digits in international football, after 2019 and 2021.

Double trouble: Harry Kane scored two goals against a weak Croatian team in Rijeka. Igor Kupljenik/SPP/Imago GmbH/Avalon

This was Gordon's fourth goal in four England games, having scored or assisted in the past seven. His development, particularly since joining Barcelona, is a case study in confidence, in what being told Barcelona would like to spend £70m to acquire your services can do. In the basest sense, he just looks better, svelter and sharper, more direct and effective. Within three minutes he had forced a save from Dominik Livaković and proceeded to sprint with malicious intent for the ensuing 70 minutes, setting up Bellingham for England's second and then scoring their third. He appears to feel as

Kane, Bellingham, Saka and Gordon have forged a coherence that simply didn't exist six months ago

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Kane, Bellingham, Saka and Gordon have forged a coherence that simply didn't exist six months ago

though he belongs here in a way he never has before, and reprising his relationship with Lewis Hall over the past two matches has helped him find more space and opportunity.

Perhaps the most obvious conclusion was that all football matches should be solely attended by schoolchildren. Once you get past the ceaseless piercing scream it really is a lot of fun. One class had clearly used their week productively, unfurling a hand-drawn banner reading: "It's not coming home". And look, fair play, but AI might rot their brains to the extent they struggle to function as adults, so who are the real winners here? Different schools produced different imitations of a traditional football crowd, tiny hands brandishing imaginary yellow cards, throwing some pretty brutal thumbs-downs and failing to start a Mexican wave, even the odd flare of aggro towards England's bucket-hatted brigade.

And having given Trent Alexander-Arnold his first international start in six years against Czechia on Tuesday, in which he assisted the opening goal, Tuchel promptly dropped him once more for Jarell Quansah, who did his best Alexander-Arnold impression with a series of crosses dipped into the six-yard box, setting up Gordon. Croatia, meanwhile, played like a team managed by Slaven Bilić.

The Stadion Rujevica is carved into hills above Rijeka, overlooking the Adriatic sea, with a capacity of little over 8,000. The away stand is both encased by a steel cage and draped in netting, raising questions about what on earth happens here most Saturdays – the 100 England “hardcores”, as Jordan Pickford called them, given tickets for this game were initially supposed to be housed in it before they protested. Where’s their sense of adventure? Pre-match, obnoxiously loud music blasted over the city, including what transpired to be a loose Croatian cover of We Didn’t Start The Fire (chorus translation: We are few, but we exist. It’s not important, we will crush everyone’s dreams). There’s only so good you can be in a stadium like this, which simply cannot be allowed to be the setting of one of England’s great performances.

Highly confident: Anthony Gordan made it three for England before the break.

Carl Recine/

Getty Images

These matches increasingly appear to be the sweet spot for Tuchel's England, teams ranked between 10 and 20 in the world, competent and ambitious enough to offer space without quite possessing the resources to consistently prod at the soft spots in their defences. This team's best pre-World Cup performance was away in Serbia in September 2025, and little over a year later they exceeded it, with a ruthlessness which verged on cruel.

It has always felt slightly inevitable that this team would realise its ability a few months after one major tournament and almost two years from the next, that it might well peak in a meaningless Euro 2028 qualifier against Hungary or Finland some time late next year, just in time for Bellingham to do his ACL and Gordon to not score for three years. In vastly different circumstances, but each similarly meaningless, England have been 4-0 up by half-time in two of their past four matches. This is a team that just knows how to get bigger when the occasion shrinks, how to save the best for when they need it least.

England have played Croatia six times in the past eight years, a benchmark for both nations' progress, a derby by brute repetition, even if England have now won the last four by 14 goals to three, unbeaten in five since the

three, unbeaten in five since the 2018 World Cup semi-final. This was cathartic and fun, a little slice of revenge for Moscow, if verging on absurd, so dominant as to fuel almost invalid. Can we play you every week?

Alex Scott is taking matters into her own hands

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Alex Scott is taking matters into her own hands

After BBC decided to cancel its Women's Football Show, the presenter built a new one from scratch, writes Jessica Hayden

Jess Glynne is running around the One More Word studio on a Sunday night. She is moving furniture, putting empty cups in the bin and asking guests if they have been to the toilet before the filming starts. "I'm just the social media girl," she says, her red curls sitting in a messy bun on top of her head. "Well, I do whatever needs doing." Here, she is no longer Jess Glynne the world-famous singer working on her next album. She is Jessica, partner of Alex Scott, and she is effectively working as a showrunner for the WSL YouTube chat show founded by Scott.

The format is that fans or content creators from each WSL club form the panel and sit opposite Scott, who is joined by her fellow former footballers Fara Williams and Anita Asante as they talk about each game from the weekend. "It's Match of the Day for the women's game," Scott says.

The former England captain created the show, which she funds herself, in response to the cancellation of the BBC's Women's Football Show. "We had something taken away, a decision that was made," she says. "And I just thought, 'I've set up First Cap [a production company], I could do

‘Whether you think I’m good at my job or not... I’ve always tried my best for women’s sport’ a show, so I'm doing this.' I always look at the positive outcome of things, control the controllables." There is an air of defiance in her voice. First Cap produces One More Word and another women's sports project set to be in the works by the end of the year.

"I thought there needs to be something that speaks about the WSL fixtures and it just needs to be done right," she says. "The demand obviously is there, it's just trying to improve it in the right way and make it a show that sets a standard for that.

“Actually, by taking away the Women’s Football Show, you’ve got all the people that worked on that without jobs or getting paid. So I'm creating something that is going to hopefully pay Fara [Williams], pay all the pundits that come on, as well as giving everyone a platform. That's what I'm aspiring to do – you have had that taken away, I'm trying to replace it for you."

Scott is doing everything herself, from finding the panellists on social media to ordering the pizza and cleaning up the boxes afterwards. The studio is small and industrial, but it is filled with young, excited football fans who are giddy about watching Chelsea vs Arsenal with Scott, Williams and Asante.

The production is a world away from the TV studios that Scott has worked in over the past decade and is endearingly scrappy at times. Glynne, sitting on a sofa behind the cameras, is controlling the TV screen that the panel uses for analysis via her laptop, not always immediately picking up on her girlfriend's cues to switch to the next slide.

“We only have the studio for tonight, so we have to dismantle it all now and pack it up,” Scott says shortly after filming ends. Glynne walks past, carrying part of the set on her shoulder.

Scott now spends the week planning the episode, analyses every game, films on Sunday and then oversees the edit on Monday. It's a full-time job, and one that is costing her a lot of money. The show is yet to go out to sponsors.

Despite the increased workload, Scott seems happier than in the past. She speaks with passion, like a fire has been lit inside of her.

It has, undoubtedly, been a difficult year for Scott. Football Focus, the BBC show that had been running for 52 years and Scott had hosted for five, was axed in April during a year of significant BBC Sport cuts.

All hands on deck: Scott's new show features ex-pro pundits, a panel of WSL fans... and her partner Jess Glynne (top right) keeping on top of things. Chinonso

"It was hard because we all know what's going on with the BBC and all the cuts, and I think Football Focus always suffered from that," Scott says. "It very much went away from the original show that it was, and if you look at the headlines, people thought that was a result of me. But then I'm like, 'It's not me wanting new parts to be in the show. I have to turn up and be professional.' I just got to a stage where I was struggling with it."

Then last month, the first episode of the Disney+ Women's Champions League show she hosted

In the past: Scott has been a familiar face for BBC viewers, hosting the Women's Football Show, Football Focus and even The One Show. Leila Coker/Getty

– which inexplicably featured a dog called Barley Boy – was met with bad reviews. Scott is not happy with all the decisions that were made about the show. Decisions, she points out, for which she has been blamed despite not being in charge of it.

"I have to turn up and do my job," she says. "Ultimately, do I agree with all the decisions that were made? Absolutely not. Did I try and advise? Yes, but I can only do so much. It goes back to, actually, I'm going to turn up and sit there and try to be as professional as I can to deliver a show in a way that..." she pauses, stopping herself for a moment, before continuing: "I tried."

“Ultimately I will always hold my hands up, because I have been part of those shows,” she says. “Could I have done more? Take away the opinions of me, whether you think I’m good at my job or not, everyone is going to have opinions on that. But nobody sees the conversations, the fights I have behind the scenes. But I can hold my head up and know that I’ve always tried my best for the greater good of

women's sport."

One More Word is the first time Scott has been in complete control of a show. “I think my confidence has begun to grow, that actually I think [I know] what might work,” she says. Four episodes in and there have been mixed reactions, but Scott says the negative feedback has been listened to, and each episode develops a bit. She acknowledges that the first episode was shouty, with panellists talking over each other constantly. Scott gives feedback to guests after each show and there is now a calmer atmosphere during filming.

There had been discussions about Scott hosting a WSL YouTube show for the BBC, but that had not been agreed prior to the creation of One More Word. “I hadn’t signed any contracts or anything, so I was surprised to see my name, saying I’m hosting a new BBC YouTube show,” she says. “Nothing had been confirmed, the contracts, final line-ups or anything for the BBC.” The WSL, meanwhile, are supportive of the show.

She says setting up her own show was not a protest at the BBC cuts, but she is visibly frustrated by what she sees as a failure to recognise the growth in the women's game. "I feel like there's always an excuse about women's football shows not working because of the viewership or needing to save money," she says. "Whereas I think if they are done right, they can work, if things are given a fresh idea or a fresh format, they can work."

When we meet again, three days after the filming, Scott has spent the morning bagging up her outfits from Football Focus to take them to the charity shop. “I just feel like I’ve got a fresh start ahead of me, so I almost don’t want to hold on to that chapter, and every time I saw that rail of clothes I just thought, ‘That’s my Football Focus outfit,’” she says. Her sartorial choices for One More Word can be more stylish, less polished, and more her.

It feels like a neat way of closing a chapter, reminiscent of a break-up, but she insists it's not like that and she still has fond feelings towards the BBC. "To present shows like Children In Need and The One Show, it still blows my mind," she says. "The BBC have allowed me, over the last 10 years, the most amazing opportunities and I'll just be forever grateful.

“So despite everything that surrounds the BBC at the moment, I just think of that girl who started in a pub in the East End of London – I still pinch myself. But now, this just feels fresh and exciting.”

Promising player: Lexi Potter made an impression for Chelsea against OL Lyonnes in the Champions League (left). Valerio Pennicino/ Getty Images

Potter's sliding doors moment with England could be pivotal

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Potter's sliding doors moment with England could be pivotal

Missing U20

World Cup could

be the making

of Lexi Potter,

writes Jessy Parker

Humphreys

The moment that Laura Kaminski knew that Lexi Potter was different came a few weeks into the season. Potter had joined Kaminski's Crystal Palace side on loan at the start of the 2023-24 season as a 17-year-old, hoping for a first taste of senior football in Women's Super League 2. For the first few weeks, the midfielder couldn't break into the team, a frustrating reality for a player who was seen as one of the best in her age group at both Chelsea and England.

Potter went to Kaminski's office and asked her: "What do I need to do to play?"

"I'll never forget it," says Kaminski, who is now head coach at SK Brann in Norway. "A lot of players ask: 'Why am I not playing?'. That attitude from her, that hard work and humbleness, has put her in the position that she's in today."

If Potter was in a film of her life, the next 24 hours would have been a montage scene set to motivational music. After Kaminski told her some of the technical issues that she felt

Potter needed to work on if she was going to be a midfielder in the WSL2, she went out and began practising.

"I didn't have to design a session for her, or motivate her, or persuade her. I watched her – I'll never forget it – across the training pitches, practising at the end of a session things that I'd asked her to practise. I remember thinking this kid's different."

The next time Kaminski gave her a chance in the team was the last time she needed to. She played non-stop for Crystal Palace from then on, helping them win promotion and returning to play for them the season after in the WSL. "For me, if we did not have Lexi, we wouldn't have gotten promoted. Every player that played in that side at the time, I know will say the same thing."

Chelsea have shown themselves to be one of the elite academies in the women's game but the pathway to the senior team is arduous even for someone who is viewed as the future of the club. They decided not to loan Potter out last season, but minutes were tricky to come by with just 14 appearances. "She probably doesn't get the minutes she would like to have, and she deserves to have from her quality," admitted Sonia Bompastor after Potter had come on against St Polten in the Champions League in November. "I know how good she can be."

There was a question this season too about whether Potter should go to the Under-20 World Cup which took place in September. In the end, Chelsea made the decision for her. She stayed and, such is the nature of football, the sliding doors moment could be a pivotal one in her career. She has started four of Chelsea's six games this season, including playing every minute against Arsenal and OL Lyonnes. The strength of her performances led to clamour for a first senior England call-up – “I wish she was French!” said Bompastor after the Arsenal game – which she duly received from Sarina Wiegman this week.

‘We wouldn’t have got promoted without her. Every player will say the same thing’ Laura Kaminski

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‘We wouldn’t have got promoted without her. Every player will say the same thing’ Laura Kaminski

The excitement around Potter has been supercharged by her burgeoning partnership with Keira Walsh. One of the changes Kaminski made to Potter's game at Crystal Palace was to shift her from being a box-to-box midfielder to playing more as a No 6. While she shone in a single pivot there, it is in a double pivot with Walsh that she is really getting the plaudits.

It is hard to think of a better player in world football for a young midfielder to learn from but Potter is also bringing out the best of the 29-year-old in a Chelsea shirt. It has been notable how much more freedom Walsh has on the pitch when she is alongside Potter, reminiscent of her time at Barcelona when she would trust that she had players like Patri Guijarro covering behind her giving her license to roam forward. It speaks volumes that she trusts Potter enough to be playing in the same way now.

"When Lexi's playing alongside me, she makes me feel really comfortable," said Walsh. "We've got a great partnership. That's probably where most of my confidence comes from.

"The way we see the game is very similar. We both see football in a very tactical way and I've really enjoyed playing with her so far. She's probably going to be better than me, to be honest." Walsh grew up watching clips of Yaya Touré, Sergio Busquets and Pep Guardiola at Barcelona while Potter cites Andrés Iniesta as her favourite player. That will go some way to explaining the connection the duo have on the pitch which Bompastor says is there even if they "close their eyes".

The possibility of them playing together for England is tantalising.

When Kaminski heard about Potter's call-up she was with Daniel Matraszek, her goalkeeping coach at Palace and now Brann. They face-timed to congratulate her.

“She’s very happy with it,” says Kaminski. “But at the same time, I know her feet are on the ground. She’s a coachable player, she listens to guidance, and a player that wants to put one step in front of the other to make sure that her career is sustainable. I’ve got a lot of respect for that.”

When asked how good Kaminski thinks Potter can be, she is definitive.

"I don't think there is a ceiling for Lexi Potter."

The stats guide to this week's fixtures Bill Edgar

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The stats guide to this week's fixtures Bill Edgar

Manchester City vs Arsenal, Sunday, 4.30pm, WSL

City have matched their male counterparts by starting the league season with a 100% record. The WSL champions have been boosted by Khadija “Bunny” Shaw’s decision to extend her stay at the club: last season she became the first player to be top scorer, or joint-top scorer, in three successive WSL campaigns, and she is again equal-top scorer this term. She is not the only prolific footballing Bunny. Robert “Bunny” Bell is one of only two men to have scored nine or more in an EFL game, hitting nine in Tranmere Rovers’ 13-4 win over Oldham Athletic in 1935. Scotland vs Slovenia, Tuesday, 7.45pm, Nations League

Of the 29 players who appeared for Scotland across the 2016-17 campaign, only RB Leipzig's Oliver Burke was playing for a club outside Britain. Yet the present Scotland squad contains 11 players based abroad, and they could line up together in a natural position in a 3-5-2 formation: Gunn (San Jose); Hendry (Al-Ettifaq), McKenna (Dinamo Zagreb), Binks (Brøndby); Patterson (Torino), Ferguson (Bologna), Gilmour (Napoli), Miller (Udinese), Doig (Sassuolo): Ure (Sevilla), Bowie (Sassuolo). England vs Czech Republic, Tuesday, 7.45pm, Nations League

England are halfway through their first four-game sequence for nearly 60 years where they will have faced opposition with the same initial: Czech Republic, Croatia, Czech Republic, Croatia. This last happened from December 1967 to May 1968, when their run of fixtures against S teams extended to five: Soviet Union, Scotland, Spain, Spain, Sweden. Alex Scott made his debut against Czech Republic, which created the first case of the same full name appearing for both the England men's and women's teams: the female television presenter of that name won 140 caps. Chelsea vs Bournemouth, Saturday, 3pm, Premier League

In the 2024-25 season, Chelsea became the first team since Norwich City in 1989-90 to play an entire English top-flight campaign without fielding any players aged 28 or over. They continued their youth policy last season, but have brought in the older Jordan Henderson, Danny Welbeck and Emiliano Martínez. That leaves a strange gap. Of the 61 players Chelsea have selected since May 2024, none has been aged 29, 30, 31 or 32 at the time. Manchester United vs Tottenham, Saturday, 5.30pm, Premier League

Spurs have started the season badly and seem likely to extend their record for the longest unbroken English top-flight run that did not feature a league title: this is their 49th season in a row in the top division since promotion in 1978 and they have not become champions in that time. Next are Everton, with another current run, this being their 40th successive top-tier campaign since their title success in 1987.

‘I became spokesperson for British weightlifting without even asking’

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‘I became spokesperson for British weightlifting without even asking’

The growth in popularity of strength training shows the Emily Campbell effect is in full flow. By Jessy Parker Humphreys

When, at Tokyo 2020, Emily Campbell became Great Britain's first female

weightlifter to win an Olympic medal, the experience changed her life. Suddenly, Campbell was thrust into the limelight as the face of British weightlifting, as well as of being a strong woman.

Her thoughts on everything from body image to sportswear were solicited at a time when women were pushing to redefine what exercise looked like for them. It is easy to see why – she is gregarious, intelligent and outspoken. Five years on, with an appearance on Masterchef now also under her belt, Campbell is still speaking out about what matters.

The Emily Campbell effect ( $^{™}$ ) is in full flow in Britain. More women than ever before are engaging with weight training, wanting to lift heavy. Gyms across the country are extending their strength areas in order to keep up with demand. When Campbell went to watch the Youth National Championships recently, she was struck by just how many girls were competing. If anything, she says, British weightlifting needs more boys to get involved.

“You do feel the sense of responsibility that you’re not just doing this for yourself. You’re doing this for a wider cause and for the sport that you love the most. I’ll always speak about things that I am passionate about and I won’t just jump on the bandwagon because something is popular right now. I speak about things that I feel need to change and I feel I can have an impact on.”

Campbell has been partnering with fitness company Les Mills their ownership and going: 'You don't speak for me.'

“Sometimes I feel a responsibility for our sport because of the position that I’m in and the things I’ve achieved,” says Campbell. “I essentially became the spokesperson for British weightlifting without even asking for the job. It’s the first job I’ve never had to interview for.

When it comes to the change in attitude from women in terms of what they are trying out at the gym, Campbell points to the ever-increasing profile of sportswomen. "All the track girls get photographed for how stunning they are and their muscles are part of being stunning. It's nice now that we're starting to see more and more women put in the light of beauty when they have got a muscular body."

Yet Campbell has concerns around the way social media can portray going to the gym sometimes, particularly with videos which “put people off”. While women-only gyms are becoming increasingly popular in order to create spaces for women to exercise without men around, Campbell thinks there is a notion that men are more negative in gym spaces than they actually are.

The impact of that is being felt across age groups, with Campbell's friend's daughter recently telling her how she was working on her back muscles so she would look good in her prom dress.

"I think it's the rise of women being more independent, regardless of sport, regardless of fitness. Women being higher earners, women being in control of things; that has created this ethos of women going: 'Well, I can do that.'"

to help push women's access to strength training even further.

"It should be a woman's choice if they want to train around men or not," she says. "It should be a choice that they want to train with women, not because they feel like they can't train with men.

Given all that progress, Campbell says she was disappointed by the recent Sydney Sweeney advert for US sport prediction market company Novig where the actor posed naked with a variety of sports equipment. Campbell admits she had not even heard of Sweeney before the uproar.

“[Some women] think they are going to touch a weight and they are going to look like a bodybuilder,” she says. “If that happens let me know how you do it because I’ve been trying for 10 years and still don’t look like any of these bodybuilders.”

"There's a lot of men in the gym that will come and spot you, cheer you on, and be impressed by what you're doing. There's got to be more of that. We've all got to come together and fight the good fight."

"As athletes in women's sport, we have to fight so hard to be seen on an equal playing field and to be given the respect that we deserve. The scary thing is the amount of people that would have agreed that was a good idea. The positive side is the uproar on social media has been fantastic. To see women taking back 'All the track girls get photographed for being stunning and their muscles are part of that'

Emily Campbell

Campbell's concern about the way social media can exaggerate issues in order to generate clicks or likes is influenced by her experience at the Tokyo Olympics. Campbell competed against Laurel Hubbard, the first openly transgender woman to compete at an Olympic Games, but found that the attention Hubbard's inclusion received took away from the event itself.

“In Tokyo, we had 10 incredible women, the best in the world, lined up to have a battle that day and see who came out on top,” she says. “The other issues, that weren’t really relevant, ended up overshadowing the fact that you had the best athletes in the world about to do this amazing thing.

“That’s what happens with social media and the gym. You focus on one issue that happened with one man. Apart from, actually, there were probably 10 beautiful stories that happened in the gym that day. Two girls helping each other out. Somebody hit a new personal best. Somebody helped correct the technique. But nobody would ever see what went on in the gym. They only see the issue that happened.”

After securing gold at this summer's Commonwealth Games, Campbell is turning her attention to a third Olympic appearance, confirming officially that she will attempt to qualify for Los Angeles 2028. In order to make it, she will have to be ranked as one of the top eight weightlifters in the world for her class.

“Everyone knows I love a challenge,” she quips. “So yes, I’m going to try and go to LA and enjoy these last years of weightlifting that I have left in me. It’s all guns blazing already. We’re in the trenches. It’s all going down.”

Strong influence: Campbell says she was struck by how many more girls were competing in weightlifting at the national championships. Les Mills

Rough memories for Australia as Sandpapergate chafes again

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Rough memories for Australia as Sandpapergate chafes again

A Test series in South Africa for first time since the cheating scandal that rocked Australian cricket means revisiting uncomfortable past, writes Gideon Haigh

Cameras: that's what sticks in Steve Smith's mind from eight years ago. Australia's calamitous tour of South Africa, which cost him the captaincy in a haze of infamy, Smith has largely blocked from his mind. But as he explained in an interview last month, the telltale flicker of shutters reminds him of the torrid press conference into which he walked, pale and teary, on returning to Sydney.

Smith was obliging to consent to the interview at all. For the Australian team in the interim, Sandpapergate has been a no-go zone. Now they are about to retrace their steps, with Tests in all three venues of their past ill-starred progress, the squad led by Smith's successor Pat Cummins appear resigned to questions revisiting their experiences.

Smith and Cummins are among five survivors of that lost patrol, with Mitchell Starc, Josh Hazlewood and Nathan Lyon the others; Matthew Renshaw was flown in as one of the replacements. The backroom staff has turned over; likewise every member of the Cricket Australia (CA) board.

Still, everyone involved in Australian cricket these past eight years has walked into the legacy of the incident – both the ensuing moral reckoning and the air of undispelled mystery about who knew exactly what.

Cricketers are actually better than most at dealing with the overhang of the past. They have to be. They must focus on what is before them. They must exclude extraneous thought. It's the rest of us who brood. Test match cricket lays down deep memories, and those of Cameron Bancroft surreptitiously slipping a scrap of sandpaper down his strides remain vivid.

One of the notable dimensions of events was that they reached Australia on a sleepy Sunday morning, having occurred too late for the morning newspapers, for the opining of pundits and the micro analysis of video.

All anyone had to go on was the clip of Bancroft's feigned insouciance, and his contrastingly awkward, you-tell-them-no-you-tell-them press conference with Smith. But this slotted into the context of a team whose confrontational airs and unapologetic rationales had for some years been testing public sympathy. The Aussies pushed it too far? David Warner was in on it? That, Australians seemed to say, would be right – then the kicker: not in our name.

With the tsunami of public indignation loosed on social media, the mainstream press struggled to keep up, while administrators were caught entirely flat-footed. By the afternoon, on an inevitably quiet news day, the Australian prime minister had weighed in, all before a minim of printers' ink had been spilled and an internal memo been sent. Within a week, Australia's two most valuable players, Smith and Warner, had joined Bancroft on a homeward flight, and their coach Darren Lehmann foreshadowed his exit.

In hindsight, CA did a fair job containing the on-field damage: the investigation was prompt if not exactly thorough; the players served their suspensions and worked their passages back; the teams they rejoined have achieved an almost spotless code of conduct record the past eight years.

On its own account, CA was arguably less successful. Its senior echelons had long been notable for continuity, embodied in CEO James Sutherland's 17-year tenure. Within four months of Sandpapergate, Sutherland had announced his retirement. The board's first independent

Fall from grace: Steve Smith's tearful press conference in 2018, when he was stripped of the Australia captaincy and suspended for a year. Peter Parks/AFP/Getty

All of which adds up to a Test series with perhaps more bite than any in recent memory

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All of which adds up to a Test series with perhaps more bite than any in recent memory

chair David Peever initiated an organisational review by an external consultant so damning it cost him his job, and CA recently anointed David Boon its sixth chair in nine years.

Not all the turnover has been for the same reasons – CA's flirtation with private investment is the latest casus belli. Yet by damaging external confidence in the organisation and provoking mistrust among stakeholders, Sandpapergate left the game more brittle, less united. It is an odd time in cricket hereabouts, the left hand not knowing exactly what the right hand is doing.

Now, perhaps belatedly, the team faces scrutiny, including on its own docket. Last month it was announced that Cummins' men would admit cameras to the dressing room again for a fourth season of their popular fly-on-the-wall documentary The Test. The irony is that The Test began partly as a means of re-endearing the Australian team to their public after Sandpapergate. Now the wheel has turned full circle.

The Australians begin the series at Kingsmead, where they actually won in 2018, but also where tempers boiling over in a stairwell were captured on CCTV – the leaked footage of Warner having to be separated from Quinton de Kock not only added to the visitors' paranoia, but encouraged the crowds to throw out additional provocations.

All roads, inevitably, lead to Cape Town, where Australia won a T20 international two years after Sandpapergate to partly lift any curse on them there, but where they also lost Tests in 2009 and 2011.

All of which adds up to a Test series with perhaps more bite than any in recent memory, involving as it does the winner of the previous cycle of the World Test Championship and the leader of this one. Fans have had a long time to anticipate it too: bizarrely, when South Africa take the field on Friday, it will be their first home red-ball fixture for 641 days.

South Africa were the better team during the ODI preliminaries, taking out the series last week by two matches to one. They looked formidable; they may, ever so slightly, be favourites. Whatever the case, there will be cameras – lots of cameras.

Where to watch

South Africa v Australia

Sky Sports Cricket

First Test begins Friday, 8.30am

[The NFL star who rejected Harvard] Jonathan Taylor wanted to be an astrophysicist for Nasa, writes Paddy von Behr

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[The NFL star who rejected Harvard] Jonathan Taylor wanted to be an astrophysicist for Nasa, writes Paddy von Behr

A

academic excellence often seems incompatible with sporting success. Those lucky few blessed with brains

and brawn tend to specialise early, so we nod approvingly at Frank Lampard's A\* in Latin GCSE or share viral videos of Manuel Akanji's frighteningly fast arithmetic. Before he became the world's most famous living scientist, Neil deGrasse Tyson was the unbeaten captain of his high-school wrestling team.

Jonathan Taylor is a little different. Towards the end of high school, when top football prospects typically juggle scholarship offers, he was eyeing up a career at Nasa and applied to study astrophysics at Harvard. Taylor got in, then turned them down. Now, a decade later, the Indianapolis Colts running back comes to London as one of the best players in the NFL.

As a child, Taylor was fascinated by outer space, which is not at all unusual, but the phase never passed. Instead of idolising Barry Sanders or Emmitt Smith, he looked up to Tyson (Neil deGrasse, not Mike), fascinated by his ability to clearly explain some of the universe's most complex concepts. While his friends played Madden on the Xbox, he dreamed about going into space.

In the US high-school system, a 4.0 grade point average (GPA) is straight As, a threshold that students can only exceed by taking optional, higher-level classes. Taylor attained a 4.1 GPA. He set his heart on Harvard University and got accepted. "It's like getting your PhD," he told the New York Times years later. "You can have the words 'Harvard graduate' stitched next to your name the rest of your life."

Yet as the application process progressed, he had a nagging thought: "What if I could play football in the prestigious Big Ten Conference? Would I be good enough?" Taylor first tried football age 12, only because his cousin Amani was playing, and he was a natural: speed, balance and the sort of attention to detail that comes naturally to a straight-A student. A prime example of what Tyson likes to call a “geek jock”.

He was a three-star recruit out of high school – a promising player, but not considered special. Top football colleges weren't scrapping for his signature, but Wisconsin were interested. The Badgers play in the Big Ten. Tim Murphy, the Harvard coach who was desperate for Taylor to join his team, warned the teenager,

"Don't be the guy that could have gone to Harvard," but his mind was soon made up. "Once I found out that [Wisconsin] was a top-20 academic institution [in the country], that kind of sealed the deal," Taylor said.

A teenage Taylor arrived at Wisconsin in 2017 as the fifth-string running back on the Badgers' roster, but that didn't last long. After turning heads in their pre-season camp he soon became a starter and hit the ground running, going on to become the first player in the history of top-tier college football to rush for at least 1,900 yards in three straight seasons and scored 50 touchdowns.

After he was selected by the Colts in the second round of the 2020 Draft, Taylor quickly translated that success to the NFL. In year two he led the league in rushing yards (1,811) and touchdowns (18) and was runner-up for Offensive Player of the Year, denied only by Cooper Kupp's historic Super Bowl-winning season with the Rams.

Last season he rediscovered that electric form. When Indianapolis travelled to Berlin to play the Atlanta Falcons in November, he torched them for

244 rushing yards

and three scores, including a scintillating 83-yard touchdown run, the longest in Colts history. At that point, 10 games into the season, he had managed 891 yards after contact with a defender. That was more than the total rushing yards of five entire teams: the Browns, Raiders, Steelers, Titans and Bengals.

The problem for Taylor is that the Colts have struggled to crack the play-offs – since one post-season game in his rookie year, the 27-year-old has never featured in the business end of the league and this year began badly too. Last weekend they edged past the Houston Texans to avoid the dreaded 0-3 start. In Tottenham today the Washington Commanders stand between them and a meaningful resurgence.

Taylor is the key protagonist: keep him quiet and you've got a chance; let him slice through you and you're in trouble.

Every off-season, players across the league vote for their best contemporaries and a definitive top 100 is compiled – Taylor had dropped out of the list altogether since his breakout year but returned at No 17 this summer.

"I'm telling you," John Settle, Taylor's running backs coach at Wisconsin, said a few years ago, "if he wasn't so good at this, he'd be working for Nasa right now. He's that smart." Maybe he will one day.

Better nights in for less

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Better nights in for less

sky

Gigafast Broadband, Sky TV & Netflix. All for £35 a month.

Prices may change during 24-month minimum term.

New Sky TV & Broadband customers. Includes Essential TV (£15pm), Netflix Standard with Ads, and Full Fibre Gigafast (£20pm). After 24m, Essential TV, £21/month; FF Gigafast, £25/month. 79% UK availability. Avg download speed 900Mbps. 18+. UK only.

Football was my refuge from mum being a soap celebrity

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Football was my refuge from mum being a soap celebrity

Oliver Holt, chief sports writer of the Daily Mail, on the beginnings of his lifelong obsession

When Eileen Derbyshire was in her mid-20s, searching for roles and still unsure whether she was going to make it as an actress, she worked as an usherette at a big cinema in Leicester Square and temped as a secretary in St John's Wood.

Then she came to a decision: she was going to pursue acting with everything she had. She left London and joined a travelling repertory company called The Century Theatre. She lived a peripatetic existence, touring the country with her fellow actors.

She performed a bewildering array of plays, living in caravans; she helped to assemble and dismantle the wooden auditorium every evening and embraced a life of bohemia. When she wasn't touring, she was chasing other theatre roles, often unsuccessfully.

So that she could maintain some sort of base, she moved back to live at home with her parents in Urmston, a quiet suburb out to the west of Manchester city centre. She kept all her letters of rejection from provincial theatres in Halifax and Oldham and Manchester in a file. There were 30 or 40, on headed notepaper, neatly typed.

'I found my escape on the terraces. My character and all its shortcomings were swallowed up in a surging, seething whole'

Eileen is 94 now. To the wider world she is better known as Emily Nugent, later Emily Bishop, of Coronation Street. For 55 years after those rejections, she had become a mainstay in one of the most popular and enduring television shows in British history. She was much loved and admired, recognised by fans of the show everywhere she went. But she was also my mum, and I was a shy kid who wanted to do anything I could to avoid that recognition.

I struggled with her celebrity. I had acne, I was not socially confident, I didn't like parties, I was self-conscious. None of those things mixed well with having a mum who everyone was looking at. It wasn't Beatlemania, but she was recognised everywhere we went and people stared at her or giggled with each other when we walked past,

or impersonated other Coronation Street characters when they saw her.

She was unfailingly polite. Most people were respectful and she knew how important fans of the programme were to her and her colleagues. She was always grateful when people came up to her and said how much they loved Coronation Street and how much enjoyment her character had given them.

I should have felt the same, but I didn't. I resented it. I didn't like the intrusion. I was embarrassed by it. I became morbidly skilled at noticing the moment Mum had been spotted by a fan: the glance that lingers a second longer than normal, the swivel of the head after she had

walked past, the whisper to a friend to let them know they had just spotted Emily. I developed a sixth sense for all of it. I hated it.

I knew the arguments. The people who loved Mum's character in Coronation Street, who wanted to meet the woman who played her, were also the people who paid her wages and meant I got a new pair of football boots at Christmas and a decent tennis racket.

But I didn't want the attention. I wanted the opposite. I wanted to disappear. And the thing that really allowed me to do that was going to watch football. Being part of a crowd. I found my escape on the terraces where my character and all its shortcomings were swallowed

up in a surging, swaying, seething whole. Nobody looked at you on the terraces. Nobody asked you awkward questions about why you didn't have a girlfriend. Nobody judged you for being uncool.

Right from the beginning I co-opted Mum into football duties now and again. She took me to my first game, a Manchester derby at Maine Road on 18 November 1972, when I was six. But Stockport County became my obsession. After a first game against Aldershot, I went to a couple more home games and then, in the 1979-80 season, to 20 of the 23 league games at Edgeley Park. I was all in. I bought a big, long sticker in the souvenir shop that read “Go,

'I wanted to disappear. The thing that really allowed me to do that was going to watch football': Oliver Holt at home, surrounded by football memorabilia.

The young Holt family: 'We were a tight three, Mum, Dad and me.'

Portrait by Tom Pilston

finals of the Uefa Cup in March 1979, I told her we had to turn up at the ticket office at Maine Road if I were to have any chance of getting one.

Go, Go County", and stuck it on the rear windscreen of my mum's Volkswagen Passat.

It was a school day and the ticket office at Maine Road closed at 5.30, so I knew it would be a close call. But I persuaded Mum to collect me after she'd finished filming at the Granada studios and take me back into Manchester. It meant more than two hours in the car for her after a long day at work, but I didn't care about that. So I waited outside the school gates. And I waited. And waited. Eventually, she showed up.

She was not entirely pleased about that. The sight of her arriving at the Granada Television studios in Quay Street with “Go, Go, Go County” plastered over the car caused a good deal of hilarity among her fellow actors.

She was my chauffeur when I was trying to get tickets for games, too. When City drew Borussia Mönchengladbach in the quarter-

On the street: Bernard Youens and Margot Bryant, who played Stan Ogden and Minnie Caldwell in Coronation Street, stand behind Oliver and his mum.

I leapt into the car and told her we had to hurry if we were to have any chance of making it to the ticket office in time. Mum was a woman of ineffable patience but this time her patience snapped. It turned out she had got stuck in traffic leaving Manchester and had tried to make up time in the second half of the journey. Not far from Macclesfield, the police pulled her over for speeding and gave her a lecture and a ticket of a different kind to the one I wanted.

At the end of the 1970s, Coronation Street was close to its peak. It was shown twice a week, with half-hour episodes on Mondays and Wednesdays, and it pulled in somewhere around 20 million viewers. I watched it, too. We were a tight three, Mum, Dad and me, and when The Street came on at 7.30pm, we were always ranged in front of the television, often with our evening meals on trays on our laps. It was unusual for anything to disrupt that routine.

Mum watched each episode intently. Now and again, she'd tell a story about something that had happened during the filming of a particular scene. It was usually a time that she had dried (forgotten her lines) or corpsed (been overcome by a fit of the giggles). Some of her colleagues set her off more than others.

Dad watched the show with a different eye. He was a great holder of grudges. If Mum had told him a story about how a certain actor or actress had done something that might have been even mildly irritating, Dad brought it up every time that actor's character appeared on the screen.

We went through a routine during most episodes where Dad would make a remark about an actor, Mum would say she regretted ever telling him the story, he'd harrumph about it, she'd tell him to be quiet so she could watch the programme and he'd stomp off to make her a cup of tea.

Mum was totally dedicated to her craft. One of our family rituals was that Dad would go through each of her scenes with her the night before filming. They'd rehearse her lines every evening at the kitchen table, Dad reading the parts of Alf Roberts or Rita Fairclough or Hilda Ogden, occasionally doing silly voices, and my mum honing her responses.

I was proud of her, obviously. I've always been proud of her. I've always admired how hard she worked and how she shunned the extraneous things that come with

Oliver's five favourite English football grounds

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Oliver's five favourite English football grounds

1. Edgeley Park, Stockport

I love it not for its architectural splendour but for what it means to me. I can still gaze over to the seat where I sat with my dad the first time he took me. Going to Stockport's ground is about about belonging for me.

2. Craven Cottage, Fulham

The Johnny Haynes Stand is the most beautiful building in English football. So many stadiums look the same now, so any ground with a cottage in one corner is to be cherished.

3. Anfield, Liverpool

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3. Anfield, Liverpool

The atmosphere has suffered a little from incursions of day-trippers and corporates but this is still the greatest cathedral in our game. To stare down at that pitch and think of all that has happened there makes it a place of magic.

4. Hill-Dickinson Stadium, Everton I'd put this just above the Tottenham Hotspur Stadium in my favourite new-builds. It has real character and its location, on the banks of the Mersey estuary, is stunning.

5. St James's Park, Exeter

Set in a natural amphitheatre, with the hulk of the Big Bank at one end, I love the character of this ground. It's a friendly club that has a reverence for its past. It's beautiful.

celebrity and concentrated entirely on her job and her family and a close circle of friends. She was in it for the acting, not the spin-offs.

I know how popular she was with the rest of the cast. I don't mean popular in that she was the life and soul of the party, but she was kind to her colleagues, young and old, and she was generous and unselfish. When Margot Bryant, who played Minnie Caldwell, fell ill and was hospitalised in south Manchester, others seemed to forget about her. Mum didn't.

As an adjunct to all of that, it was never lost on me that she was the breadwinner in our family at a time when that role was still regarded very much as a male domain.

\*\*\*

Some actors find anonymity in their character. Or escape. I think that was true for Mum. It allowed her to escape all the anxieties that had been bred in her by growing up during the Second World War. It allowed her to become someone else. Football did the same for me.

Some of Mum's memories are fading now but she is happier, in many ways, than she was ten years ago when she was floored by the sadness of seeing Dad struggle with Alzheimer's disease. The memories of Coronation Street have not left her. Nor the joy she felt in the collaboration between cast and crew.

She lives now in a wonderful home for retired actors and actresses and directors and musicians. Reproductions of old theatre programmes hang on the walls.

A couple of years ago, she told me a story about how, when she was in her twenties, her dad took her with him to buy her a dress from a shop in Deansgate in the heart of Manchester. She was committed to acting by then. She was just starting in Coronation Street and, as they were looking at the dress in the shop window, he said to her, “Eileen, does it never strike you as slightly odd that you are spending your life pretending to be someone you are not?”

She laughed at the recollection. She adored her father and it was one of her favourite stories. Now, there are times when she is, once more, someone who she is not. Sometimes, it feels as if she is playing a role again, and there is comfort in that. Sometimes, she does not recognise the 60-year-old man with grey hair and a slight limp who visits and brings his old greyhound along with him. If I'm preserved in her mind as the wide-eyed kid she took to his first football ground, then there is comfort in that, too.

Adapted from

Ninety-Two:

A Life in

Football

Grounds by

Oliver Holt,

which is

published by

Quercus

Thom

Callan-Riley

Many of the people walking through Bordeaux's main square are in a hurry. They're using Place Pey-Berland simply as a way to get somewhere – to a meeting at City Hall, perhaps, or a tour around the French city's infamous Cathédrale Saint-André. But as they cross the square, they might just see some angels passing, says Alexandra Siarri, the city's deputy mayor.

These angels move differently, Siarri says: “They possess a different speed, a different rhythm,” and in doing so they bring a certain kind of calm. That the angels she is talking about are skateboarders represents a remarkable turnaround for Bordeaux.

Previously, skateboarding was banned in public spaces across the city. Authorities tried to enforce this through fines of up to €70 (£60) a time and even made arrests. This process came to a head in 2016, when more than 1,000 tickets were issued and it was clear that the punitive measures weren't working. The city agreed to try a different approach and started to work with the skateboarders.

A process of mediation began, spearheaded by professional skateboarder Léo Valls, born and raised in Bordeaux. “As skaters, we had to put ourselves in the shoes of the people that were against us,” he says, “to understand that we could, in a way, be a nuisance, but remind them that we were also part of the city and we had to figure out how to live together in the same space.”

What Valls is talking about is “skate urbanism” – rather than advocating for more designated skateparks (often on the outskirts of the city), skate urbanism proposes the seamless integration of skateboarding into public space. Supporters say it’s not just because they want more places to skate; it’s about social interaction and finding creative ways to challenge increasingly polarised cities.

Bordeaux has developed from small interventions, such as allowing skating at specific times, to developing a city-wide strategy. Its holistic approach has made it one of the leading models of skate urbanism internationally.

Last weekend, Valls and city officials invited skateboarders, academics, architects and city planners from around the world to the Connect festival, to learn from the example of Bordeaux and share their experience of integrating skateboarding in their own cities. “Every city’s different,” says Valls. “There is no magic formula for what we did. It’s more like a philosophy you can bring to public policy.”

Ultimately it's about what public space is for. "As of now, cities have been constructed in a way that's very functional," says Siarri. "Everybody has their sort of section." Siarri's job is working out how to bring people together and create something more democratic. She believes skateboarding, which is many things at once – a sport, a lifestyle, an artform and a form of play – can help make this happen as it sits outside of the perceived restrictions of how people use public space.

From banned to beloved: how skateboarding is shaping cities

📖 中文精读 ↗

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From banned to beloved: how skateboarding is shaping cities

Bordeaux adopted ‘skate urbanism’ to change perceptions of how to use public space and encourage social interaction – but it’s not for everyone

Gustav Eden, a leading figure in skate urbanism from Malmö, Sweden, likens skateboarders to the first dancers on the dance floor. If they get up and start moving around in expressive ways, others will follow.

Takahiro Yamazaki, an academic from the University of Tokyo, describes it as a form of rewilding – think of skateboarders as beavers – by which introducing a specific species can have an outsized effect on the whole ecosystem. Skateboarders can change the way other users occupy and think about public space, he says, and it can encourage more play, more imagination and more interaction with fellow users.

Even Tony Hawk, famed for spectacular feats in the air, is backing this movement. The Skatepark Project, a foundation started by Hawk to build large purpose-built facilities across the US, is shifting to include projects that create opportunities to skate in public spaces. This idea can, at times, seem utopian – introduce skateboarding and tackle society's ills – but it is not a case of “build it and they will come”. When designing for more interaction in public space, skate urbanists say they are thinking about what these meetings look like.

Richard Sennett, an eminent sociologist from the US, is less convinced. He has been studying cities for more than 50 years, is now in his eighties, sometimes walks with a cane and says he doesn't want skateboarders speeding towards him while moving through the city.

“It’s one of those clichés,” says Sennett, “that has really wrecked thinking about cities – [that] the more interaction between different kinds of activities, the better.” He wants to dispel the notion that any kind of social interaction is good interaction.

Skateboarders are like the first dancers on the dance floor: if they start moving, others will follow

Skate urbanism advocates argue that this is where the mediation comes in. At Connect, the conversation kept coming back to the philosophy of skate urbanism. It starts with community engagement, thinking about who is, or may be, excluded. “We’re talking about making it better for everybody, so we need everybody to take part in it,” says Raisa Abal, editor of Dolores Magazine, a publication dedicated to showcasing women and gender minorities in skateboarding.

These conversations ultimately inform the design, says Dr Neftalie Williams from The Skatepark Project. They can surface diverse experiences of how people use and feel in public space. “Skateboarding culture can be emancipatory,” says Williams, “but you have to know and understand and want to wield it in a way to have that type of outcome.”

Meeting of minds: The Connect festival in Bordeaux brought together skaters, academics, city planners and more, including Raisa Abal (right), who edits a skateboarding magazine. Cyril Zannettacci

[Full Time] Sky Bet League One | P | W | D | L | F | A | Gd | Pts | Plymouth | 9 | 5 | 1 | 3 | 16 | 11 | 5 | 16 | Bradford | 8 | 5 | 1 | 2 | 8 | 5 | 3 | 16 | Huddersfield | 8 | 4 | 3 | 1 | 14 | 7 | 7 | 15 | Sheff Wed | 7 | 4 | 2 | 1 | 13 | 6 | 7 | 14 | Stockport Cty | 8 | 4 | 1 | 3 | 17 | 10 | 7 | 13 | Cambridge Utd | 8 | 3 | 4 | 1 | 13 | 11 | 2 | 13 | Reading | 8 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 17 | 10 | 7 | 12 | Burton Albion | 9 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 14 | 15 | -1 | 12 | AFC Wimbledon | 8 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 6 | 8 | -2 | 12 | Oxford Utd | 6 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 13 | 7 | 6 | 11 | Leyton Orient | 8 | 3 | 1 | 4 | 13 | 11 | 2 | 10 | Wycombe | 8 | 2 | 4 | 2 | 13 | 16 | -3 | 10 | Stevenage | 7 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 11 | 8 | 3 | 9 | Leicester | 7 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 9 | 11 | -2 | 9 | Blackpool | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 13 | 13 | 0 | 8 | Luton | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 12 | 14 | -2 | 8 | Mansfield | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 10 | 13 | -3 | 8 | Barnsley | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 7 | 12 | -5 | 8 | Bromley | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 8 | 18 | -10 | 8 | Notts County | 7 | 1 | 4 | 2 | 7 | 9 | -2 | 7 | Doncaster | 7 | 1 | 3 | 3 | 8 | 9 | -1 | 6 | MK Dons | 7 | 0 | 6 | 1 | 8 | 10 | -2 | 6 | Peterborough | 8 | 1 | 2 | 5 | 4 | 13 | -9 | 5 | Wigan | 7 | 1 | 1 | 5 | 5 | 12 | -7 | 4 | Burton Albion | 1 | <td colspan="5">Huddersfield | 3 | Leyton Orient | 0 | <td colspan="5">Plymouth | 2 | Reading | 1 | <td colspan="5">Bradford | 1 |

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[Full Time] Sky Bet League One | P | W | D | L | F | A | Gd | Pts | Plymouth | 9 | 5 | 1 | 3 | 16 | 11 | 5 | 16 | Bradford | 8 | 5 | 1 | 2 | 8 | 5 | 3 | 16 | Huddersfield | 8 | 4 | 3 | 1 | 14 | 7 | 7 | 15 | Sheff Wed | 7 | 4 | 2 | 1 | 13 | 6 | 7 | 14 | Stockport Cty | 8 | 4 | 1 | 3 | 17 | 10 | 7 | 13 | Cambridge Utd | 8 | 3 | 4 | 1 | 13 | 11 | 2 | 13 | Reading | 8 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 17 | 10 | 7 | 12 | Burton Albion | 9 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 14 | 15 | -1 | 12 | AFC Wimbledon | 8 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 6 | 8 | -2 | 12 | Oxford Utd | 6 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 13 | 7 | 6 | 11 | Leyton Orient | 8 | 3 | 1 | 4 | 13 | 11 | 2 | 10 | Wycombe | 8 | 2 | 4 | 2 | 13 | 16 | -3 | 10 | Stevenage | 7 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 11 | 8 | 3 | 9 | Leicester | 7 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 9 | 11 | -2 | 9 | Blackpool | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 13 | 13 | 0 | 8 | Luton | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 12 | 14 | -2 | 8 | Mansfield | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 10 | 13 | -3 | 8 | Barnsley | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 7 | 12 | -5 | 8 | Bromley | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 8 | 18 | -10 | 8 | Notts County | 7 | 1 | 4 | 2 | 7 | 9 | -2 | 7 | Doncaster | 7 | 1 | 3 | 3 | 8 | 9 | -1 | 6 | MK Dons | 7 | 0 | 6 | 1 | 8 | 10 | -2 | 6 | Peterborough | 8 | 1 | 2 | 5 | 4 | 13 | -9 | 5 | Wigan | 7 | 1 | 1 | 5 | 5 | 12 | -7 | 4 | Burton Albion | 1 | Huddersfield | 3 | Leyton Orient | 0 | Plymouth | 2 | Reading | 1 | Bradford | 1 |

Sky Bet League Two | P | W | D | L | F | A | Gd | Pts | Salford City | 9 | 5 | 1 | 3 | 13 | 10 | 3 | 16 | Barnet | 7 | 4 | 3 | 0 | 17 | 10 | 7 | 15 | Crewe | 9 | 3 | 6 | 0 | 11 | 7 | 4 | 15 | Cheltenham | 9 | 4 | 3 | 2 | 16 | 14 | 2 | 15 | Bristol Rovers | 9 | 5 | 0 | 4 | 14 | 14 | 0 | 15 | York | 8 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 16 | 10 | 6 | 14 | Walsall | 8 | 3 | 5 | 0 | 11 | 5 | 6 | 14 | Chesterfield | 9 | 4 | 2 | 3 | 15 | 12 | 3 | 14 | Grimsby | 9 | 3 | 4 | 2 | 13 | 10 | 3 | 13 | Gillingham | 9 | 3 | 4 | 2 | 11 | 9 | 2 | 13 | Rochdale | 9 | 4 | 1 | 4 | 10 | 11 | -1 | 13 | Tranmere | 9 | 2 | 5 | 2 | 12 | 12 | 0 | 11 | Swindon | 9 | 3 | 2 | 4 | 9 | 13 | -4 | 11 | Shrewsbury | 9 | 3 | 2 | 4 | 9 | 14 | -5 | 11 | Newport County | 9 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 12 | 12 | 0 | 10 | Accrington | 9 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 13 | 14 | -1 | 10 | Rotherham | 9 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 11 | 12 | -1 | 10 | Fleetwood Town | 9 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 9 | 10 | -1 | 10 | Colchester | 8 | 2 | 4 | 2 | 10 | 12 | -2 | 10 | Exeter | 9 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | -1 | 9 | Oldham | 8 | 2 | 1 | 5 | 9 | 13 | -4 | 7 | Northampton | 7 | 1 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 6 | -3 | 6 | Port Vale | 7 | 1 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 9 | -6 | 5 | Crawley Town | 7 | 1 | 1 | 5 | 6 | 13 | -7 | 4 | Accrington | 2 | Cheltenham | 0 | Chesterfield | 4 | Tranmere | 2 | Crewe | 3 | Bristol Rovers | 1 | Exeter | 1 | Rotherham | 0 | Gillingham | 0 | Newport County | 0 | Grimsby | 1 | Shrewsbury | 2 | Rochdale | 1 | Swindon | 0 | Salford City | 1 | Fleetwood Town | 0 | FA WOMEN'S SUPER LEAGUE

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Sky Bet League Two | P | W | D | L | F | A | Gd | Pts | Salford City | 9 | 5 | 1 | 3 | 13 | 10 | 3 | 16 | Barnet | 7 | 4 | 3 | 0 | 17 | 10 | 7 | 15 | Crewe | 9 | 3 | 6 | 0 | 11 | 7 | 4 | 15 | Cheltenham | 9 | 4 | 3 | 2 | 16 | 14 | 2 | 15 | Bristol Rovers | 9 | 5 | 0 | 4 | 14 | 14 | 0 | 15 | York | 8 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 16 | 10 | 6 | 14 | Walsall | 8 | 3 | 5 | 0 | 11 | 5 | 6 | 14 | Chesterfield | 9 | 4 | 2 | 3 | 15 | 12 | 3 | 14 | Grimsby | 9 | 3 | 4 | 2 | 13 | 10 | 3 | 13 | Gillingham | 9 | 3 | 4 | 2 | 11 | 9 | 2 | 13 | Rochdale | 9 | 4 | 1 | 4 | 10 | 11 | -1 | 13 | Tranmere | 9 | 2 | 5 | 2 | 12 | 12 | 0 | 11 | Swindon | 9 | 3 | 2 | 4 | 9 | 13 | -4 | 11 | Shrewsbury | 9 | 3 | 2 | 4 | 9 | 14 | -5 | 11 | Newport County | 9 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 12 | 12 | 0 | 10 | Accrington | 9 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 13 | 14 | -1 | 10 | Rotherham | 9 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 11 | 12 | -1 | 10 | Fleetwood Town | 9 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 9 | 10 | -1 | 10 | Colchester | 8 | 2 | 4 | 2 | 10 | 12 | -2 | 10 | Exeter | 9 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | -1 | 9 | Oldham | 8 | 2 | 1 | 5 | 9 | 13 | -4 | 7 | Northampton | 7 | 1 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 6 | -3 | 6 | Port Vale | 7 | 1 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 9 | -6 | 5 | Crawley Town | 7 | 1 | 1 | 5 | 6 | 13 | -7 | 4 | Accrington | 2 | Cheltenham | 0 | Chesterfield | 4 | Tranmere | 2 | Crewe | 3 | Bristol Rovers | 1 | Exeter | 1 | Rotherham | 0 | Gillingham | 0 | Newport County | 0 | Grimsby | 1 | Shrewsbury | 2 | Rochdale | 1 | Swindon | 0 | Salford City | 1 | Fleetwood Town | 0 | FA WOMEN'S SUPER LEAGUE

Man Utd Women 1 Liverpool FC Women

[Other results] FOOTBALL

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[Other results] FOOTBALL

UEFA NATIONS LEAGUE—A3: Croatia 0 England 7, Spain L Czech Republic L. B1: North Macedonia L Scotland L, Switzerland L Slovenia L. C1: Belarus 4 San Marino 0, Finland 2 Albania 1. C4: Estonia 1 Luxembourg 0, Iceland 3 Bulgaria 0.

EFL TROPHY SOUTHERN—Group D: Colchester 1 Luton 1 (Luton win 4-3 on penalties).

WILLIAM HILL SCOTTISH—Ch'ship: Livingston 1 Ayr 2, Morton 1 Raith 2, Partick 3 Arbroath 0. League 1: Airdrieonians 1 Montrose 0, East Fife 0 East Kilbride 3, Hamilton L Peterhead L, Queen of South 4 Cove Rangers 3, Ross County 4 Alloa 1. League 2: Annan Athletic 0 Stirling 1, Dumbarton 2 Forfar 1, Elgin 6 Clyde 2, Spartans 0 Kelty Hearts 2, Stranraer 0 Edinburgh City 0.

ENTERPRISE NATIONAL LEAGUE: Aldershot 1 Carlisle 3, Barrow 2 Wealdstone 1, Boreham Wood 3 Altrincham 1, Eastleigh 1 Woking 3, Gateshead 1 Worthing 2, Harrogate Town 3 Hornchurch 0, Hartlepool 0 Tamworth 1, Kidderminster 1 Sutton Utd 1, Solihull Moors 0 FC Halifax 2, Southend 3 AFC Fylde 1, Yeovil 6 Boston Utd 0.

NORTHERN LEAGUE—Prem: Bamber Bridge 2 Quorn 4, Hyde Utd 2 Stockton Town 1, Lancaster City 2 Ilkeston Town 1, Redcar Athletic 3 Alfreton Town 1, Warrington Rylands 4 Emley AFC 1, Workington 1 Cleethorpes Town 1.

SOUTHERN LEAGUE PREM— Central: Leamington 4 Hitchin Town 0, Leighton Town 2 Peterborough Sports 4, Rushall Olympic 5 Needham Market 3, Stourbridge 0 Racing Club Warwick 1, .

ISTHMIAN PREM: Burgess Hill Town 4 Maldon & Tiptree 1, Lewes 1 Whitehawk 0, Ramsgate 2 Carshalton Ath 3, Welling 1 AFC Whyteleafe 0.

SOUTHERN LEAGUE PREM—South: Poole Town 3 Evesham Utd 1, Yate Town 3 Frome Town 3.

EMIRATES FA CUP—3rd qualifying rd: AFC Rushden & Diamonds 2 Braintree Town 1, Barton Town 1 Chorley 4, Bedford Town 2 Wingate & Finchley 2, Brackley 0 Chelmsford 2, Brentwood Town 3 Dag & Red 1, Bury FC 2 Bromsgrove Sporting 1, Bury Town 1 Spalding Utd 1, Buxton 0 South Shields 2, Cambridge City 1 Alvechurch 2, Chesham Utd 4 Real Bedford 3, Cray Wanderers 3 Chippenham 0, Crowborough Athletic 1 Wimborne Town 2, Dorking Wanderers 1 Chatham Town 0, Ebbsfleet United 1 Sholing 2, Gainsborough Trinity 2 Anstey Nomads 3, Guiseley 1 Bradford P A 0, Hanwell Town 1 Dover 2, Harborough Town 3 St Albans 2, Kettering 1 Worcester 3, Leatherhead 1 Hanworth Villa 0, Leiston 3 Coventry Utd 1, Macclesfield FC 2 Scarborough Athletic 2, Marine 2 Warrington Town 0, Morecambe 3 Darlington 0, Oxford City 6 Enfield Town 1, Plymouth Parkway 2 Horsham 1, Redditch Utd 0 Berkhamsted 2, Salisbury FC 5 Dulwich Hamlet 0, Sheppey Utd 0 Chertsey Town 2, Spennymoor Town 4 Chester FC 1, Stafford Rangers 1 Halesowen Town 1, Tadley Calleva 2 Dartford 1, Thame Utd 0 Eastbourne Borough 1, Tonbridge Angels 0 Torquay 1, Trafford 2 Atherton Collieries 2, Truro City 4 Cirencester 0, Uxbridge 3 Hungerford Town 1, Waymouth 1 SE Dons 5, Workspop Town 0 FC United of Manchester 3, Mulbarton Wanderers 1 Gloucester 2.

CYMRU PREMIER: Airbus UK Broughton 3 Trefelin BGC 0, Ammanford 2 Holywell Town 1, Briton Ferry 1 Colwyn Bay 0, Caernarfon Town 0 Barry Town United 1, Connah's Quay Nomads 1 Penybont 0, Haverfordwest County 0 Flint Town United 1, Llandudno 0 Cardiff Met Uni 1, The New Saints FC 9 Cambrian United 0.

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GOLF

DP WORLD TOUR ALFRED DUNHILL LINKS CHAMPIONSHIP (St. Andrews, Carnoustie & Kingsbarns) –3rd rnd (Gbr & Irl unless stated, Par 72): 198 C Jarvis (Rsa) 66 67 65, 200 A Meronk (Pol) 71 66 63, M Jordan 69 65 66, 201 T Detry (Bel) 70 66 65, 202 N Noergaard (Den) 70 65 67, J Skov Olesen (Den) 70 69 63, 203 S Straka (Aut) 68 71 64, 204 O Schniederjans (USA) 69 66 69, M Fitzpatrick 68 70 66, R MacIntyre 71 65 68, C Syme 70 67 67, C Hill 68 71 65, J Luis Ballester (Spa) 68 68 68, S Soederberg (Swe) 70 67 67, J. C. Ritchie (Rsa) 72 65 67, R Repetto (Spa) 70 64 70, 205 M Lindberg (Swe) 67 70 68, H Du Plessis (Rsa) 67 70 68, M. J. Daffue (Rsa) 66 68 71, M Stewart 65 71 69.

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MOTOR RACING

FIA FORMULA 1 BAHRAIN GRAND PRIX (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia) – Qualifying: 1 M Verstappen (Ned) Red Bull 1min 35.130secs, 2 L Hamilton (Gbr) Ferrari 1:35.428, 3 I Hadjar (Fra) Red Bull 1:35.558, 4 K Antonelli (Ita) Mercedes GP 1:35.631, 5 C Leclerc (Mon) Ferrari 1:35.666, 6 L Norris (Gbr) McLaren 1:35.757, 7 O Piastri (Aus) McLaren 1:35.762, 8 G Russell (Gbr) Mercedes GP 1:35.871, 9 P Gasly (Fra) Alpine 1:37.210, 10 G Bortoleto (Bra) Audi 1:37.673, 11 L Lawson (Nzl) RB 1:37.023, 12 F Alonso (Spa) Aston Martin 1:37.220.

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MOTORCYCLING

MOTOGP GRAND PRIX OF JAPAN (Motegi, Japan) – Qualifying: MotoGP: 1 J Martin (Spa) Aprilia 1 min 42.371secs, 2 M Marquez (Spa) Ducati 1:42.481, 3 P Acosta (Spa) KTM 1:42.493, 4 M Beztecchi (Ita) Aprilia 1:42.530, 5 A Marquez (Spa) Ducati 1:42.546, 6 F Di Giannantonio (Ita) Ducati 1:42.628, 7 E Bastianini (Ita) KTM 1:42.669, 8 R Fernandez (Spa) Aprilia 1:42.741, 9 D Moreira (Bra) Honda 1:42.916, 10 J Zarco (Fra) Honda 1:42.918. Moto2: 1 I Guevara (Spa) Boscoscuro 1 min 46.851secs. Moto3: 1 D Almansa (Spa) KTM 1 min 54.572secs.

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RUGBY LEAGUE

BETFRED SUPER LEAGUE GRAND FINAL: Warrington L Wakefield L.

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RUGBY UNION

GUINNESS PREMIERSHIP – Bristol 41 Northampton 26, Gloucester 48 Harlequins 0, Newcastle L Leicester L.

UNITED RUGBY CHAMPIONSHIP – Dragons 38 Scarlets 26, Glasgow 33 Ulster 33, Lions 35 Ospreys 19, Munster L Blue Bulls L, Sharks 26 Leinster 20.

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TODAY

UEFA NATIONS LEAGUE A - GROUP 2

Greece v Germany (7.45), Netherlands v Serbia (7.45).

LEAGUE A - GROUP 4

Portugal v Norway (7.45), Wales v Denmark (7.45).

LEAGUE B - GROUP 3

Kosovo v Austria (5.00), Rep of Ireland v Israel (7.45).

LEAGUE D - GROUP 1

Malta v Andorra (5.00).

LEAGUE D - GROUP 2

Azerbaijan v Lithuania (2.00).

WOMEN'S SUPER LEAGUE

Aston Villa v Crystal Palace (2.00), Brighton & Hove Albion v Charlton (2.00), Everton v Birmingham City (2.00), Man City v Arsenal (4.30), Tottenham Hotspur v London City Lionesses (2.00), West Ham v Chelsea (2.00).

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RUGBY LEAGUE

Betfred Championship Play-Off Grand Final: London Broncos v Doncaster (3.00)

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TOMORROW

UEFA NATIONS LEAGUE A - GROUP 1

France v Belgium, Italy v Turkey.

LEAGUE B - GROUP 2

Northern Ireland v Georgia, Ukraine v Hungary.

LEAGUE B - GROUP 4

Bosnia-Herzegovina v Poland, Romania v Sweden.

LEAGUE C - GROUP 2

Cyprus v Latvia (5.00), Montenegro v Armenia.

TUESDAY 6 OCTOBER

📖 中文精读 ↗

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TUESDAY 6 OCTOBER

UEFA NATIONS LEAGUE A - GROUP 3

Croatia v Spain, England v Czech Republic.

LEAGUE B - GROUP 1

Scotland v Slovenia, Switzerland v North Macedonia.

LEAGUE C - GROUP 1

Albania v San Marino, Belarus v Finland.

LEAGUE C - GROUP 3

Kazakhstan v Faroe Islands (3.00), Moldova v Slovakia.

LEAGUE C - GROUP 4

Estonia v Iceland, Luxembourg v Bulgaria.

WEDNESDAY 7 OCTOBER

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WEDNESDAY 7 OCTOBER

INTERNATIONAL MATCH

Argentina v Benin (12midnight).

[THURSDAY 8 OCTOBER] GOLF (UNTIL SUNDAY)

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[THURSDAY 8 OCTOBER] GOLF (UNTIL SUNDAY)

DP World Tour Open de Espana presented by Madrid (Club de Campo Villa de Madrid, Madrid, Spain)

USPGA Tour Baycurrent Classic (Yokohama Country Club Yokohama, Japan)

FRIDAY 9 OCTOBER

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FRIDAY 9 OCTOBER

SKY BET CHAMPIONSHIP

West Ham v QPR (8.00).

Kick off 3.00 unless stated

RUGBY UNION

Gallagher Premiership: Leicester v Gloucester (7.45)

United Rugby Championship: Dragons v Ospreys (7.45),

Glasgow v Connacht (7.45)

[SATURDAY 10 OCTOBER] PREMIER LEAGUE

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[SATURDAY 10 OCTOBER] PREMIER LEAGUE

Arsenal v Leeds (12.30), Aston Villa v Brentford, Chelsea v AFC Bournemouth, Ipswich v Fulham, Man Utd v Tottenham Hotspur (5.30), Sunderland v Brighton.

SKY BET CHAMPIONSHIP

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SKY BET CHAMPIONSHIP

Blackburn v Cardiff, Bolton v Stoke, Charlton v Bristol City (12.30), Derby v Wrexham, Middlesbrough v Wolverhampton, Preston North End v Millwall, Sheff Utd v Lincoln City, Swansea v Norwich (12.30), Watford v Burnley, West Brom v Birmingham (12.30). SKY BET LEAGUE ONE

Bradford v Leyton Orient, Cambridge Utd v Blackpool, Doncaster v Burton Albion, Huddersfield v Sheff Wed, Leicester v Peterborough, Mansfield v Bromley, Milton Keynes Dons v Reading, Notts County v Oxford Utd (12.30), Plymouth v AFC Wimbledon (12.30), Stevenage v Wigan, Stockport County v Barnsley, Wycombe v Luton.

SKY BET LEAGUE TWO

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SKY BET LEAGUE TWO

Bristol Rovers v Barnet, Cheltenham v Salford City, Crawley Town v Chesterfield, Fleetwood Town v Walsall, Newport County v Colchester, Oldham v Accrington Stanley (12.30), Port Vale v Grimsby, Rotherham v Gillingham, Shrewsbury v Exeter, Swindon v Crewe (12.30), Tranmere v Rochdale, York v Northampton.

WILLIAM HILL SCOTTISH PREMIERSHIP

Dundee Utd v Hibernian, Falkirk v Dundee, Hearts v St Mirren, Rangers v Kilmarnock.

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RUGBY UNION

International Match: New Zealand v Australia (8.10)

Gallagher Premiership: Northampton v Bath (3.05), Saracens v Bristol (5.30)

United Rugby Championship: Blue Bulls v Lions (12.30), Leinster v Cardiff Rugby (7.45), Scarlets v Benetton Treviso (5.30), Stormers v Sharks (3.00), Ulster v Munster (5.30), Zebre v Edinburgh (3.00)

[SUNDAY 11 OCTOBER] PREMIER LEAGUE

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[SUNDAY 11 OCTOBER] PREMIER LEAGUE

Crystal Palace v Nottm Forest (2.00), Hull v Everton (2.00), Liverpool v Man City (4.30).

SKY BET CHAMPIONSHIP

Southampton v Portsmouth (12.00).

WILLIAM HILL SCOTTISH PREMIERSHIP

Aberdeen v St Johnstone (2.00), Motherwell v Celtic (12.00).

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RUGBY UNION

Gallagher Premiership: Exeter v Newcastle (3.00), Sale v Harlequins (3.00)

[Next week] Sackcloth and gunge: City's only suitable sanctions

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[Next week] Sackcloth and gunge: City's only suitable sanctions

Eight-time Premier League champions need swift, sharp punishment – only most punitive will do

Giles Smith

Demotion! A swinging fine!

Demotion plus a swinging fine!

A crippling points deduction plus

demotion plus a swinging fine!

As the scale of the alleged con perpetrated by Manchester City on the Premier League between 2009 and 2018 emerges, these are the kinds of sanctions people are screaming for. Robust suggestions, you'd have to say – and predictably so, given the extent of the claimed deception, and the emotions involved. But they're not very imaginative, are they? Quite boring, actually.

By contrast, this column's bespoke package of punitive measures for City is dynamic, strategically targeted and thoughtfully designed to satisfy both those with a vested interest and the neutrals who just want to see justice done but quite like it when justice comes with a bit of a twist.

Best of all, it's ready to roll out now, or in 25 years, or whenever the oncoming carnival of legal obfuscation has finished grinding tediously past us in the direction of a conclusion.

Also, unlike the typical suggestions, our artisanal approach to payback for the Abu Dhabi-backed super-club scrupulously avoids punishing its game-going fans, surely among the most obviously innocent parties in all of this.

Yes, even the ones who are in Oasis. And yes, even the ones who sang such Etihad staples as “We’re so rich it’s unbelievable”, “Are we too rich for you?”, “Going down with a billion in the bank” and “We’ll buy your club”. Because, as unsavoury as that choral-work might have been at the time, it would clearly be unreasonable now, in the light of subsequent developments, to deem it creative accounting and start penalising it.

Oh, and neither are we inclined to take it out on City's players, past or present, who, after all, probably had no idea what was going on upstairs at their club, rarely talked to their agents about any of this financial stuff and just took the money and played, right?

Nevertheless, penance must be paid on the field to some degree: the human yearning for closure seems to demand it. And that's why our putative sanctions include one season in which the team is obliged to appear in sackcloth shirts.

Pheroras

kneels in

sackcloth

before his

brother Herod.

I can imagine

the same

happening in

the Etihad.

Sepia Times

Now, these can, by all means, feature terrace-friendly leisure detailing because, as we say, we're not out to spoil the fans' fun, of which replica kit-wearing is such a significant part. But we do feel it would be appropriate if, for at least a limited period, the players were seen to carry the burden of City's alleged wrongdoing in a quite itchy way, with horsehair anthem jackets also an option.

But naturally, it's the board and owners who bear the brunt of our proposals, which include, first and foremost, making them take part in an extensive open-top bus tour, accompanied by the trophies garnered in this period, with an instruction to drop them off at the clubs that would have won them otherwise.

But not the Community Shield of 2018. City beat Chelsea to win that one, and given Chelsea's own imaginative book-keeping practices in this period, this match should probably now be regarded as the only truly pure football contest of this whole era. So the City board can keep that one, along with our congratulations.

But we're saying that, for a minimum of three seasons, matchday dining in the Etihad boardroom area should be set to a continuous loop of Oasis's Stop Crying Your Heart Out at conversation-drowning volume, with a random gunge-dump from a tank in the ceiling at every game. We also propose, as a suspended sanction, a pre-match mix-and-mingle opportunity with Liam Gallagher, because it's always good to have a further threat level to go to.

Meanwhile, seats in the directors' box are to be replaced with splintery benches, and one lucky season ticket-holder per game gets a dedicated five-minute slot to pelt the box with pre-approved items, on a sliding scale as follows: first season, rotting vegetable matter; second season, paint-soaked bean bags; third season, Haribo products.

And only after that, maybe, do we start thinking about demotion, a crippling points deduction and a swinging fine.

Seems like enough to you? This is an epochal moment for the Premier League. We need to get this right.

Europe's richest horse race... and cheers to Saracens' wine expert

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Europe's richest horse race... and cheers to Saracens' wine expert

Bahrain Grand

Prix is in Malaysia

(yes, really), while

the international

football may never

end. By Patrick Kidd

One of the oddest stories last week was that Brendan Venter, who many thought was Saracens' director of rugby, has a new job title. The South African is instead to be called their "head of rugby culture and wine consultant". This, it was suggested, would get him out of having to fulfil his media obligations.

Instead of speaking to the press post-match, Venter said he would invite them to a wine-tasting and answer questions over a glass or two. Sounds like a win-win to me. After opening their season with a 40-38 win in Leicester, Saracens take on Sale Sharks today (TNT Sports 1, 3pm). Sale are captained by Ernst van Rhyn, though Venter will only be talking earnestly about vin blanc.

Is there a risk of international football fatigue? England play their fourth match in 11 days when they face Czech Republic at Wembley (Tuesday, ITV1, 7.45pm). Scotland host Slovenia (BBC Two, same time), while Wales must beat Denmark to move off the bottom of their Uefa Nations League group (Today, BBC Two, 7.45pm). If that's not enough, another batch of four matches will be along in mid-November.

Britain's women, meanwhile, are seeking a place at next year's World Cup in Brazil. Sarina Wiegman has dropped Ella Toone and Chloe Kelly, stalwarts of recent England sides, from her squad to face Greece in a two-legged play-off (Friday, ITV1, 5.30pm). Wales are in Albania, Scotland go to the Czech Republic and Northern Ireland host Portugal (Friday, BBC iPlayer, 5, 6 and 7pm).

Compared with some Group 1 horse races, the Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe is almost a newcomer – The Derby was first held in 1780, while France's most celebrated Flat race is little more than a century old – but it does carry Europe's richest purse, with almost £2.5m going to the winner. Last year's winner, Daryz, is the favourite, but no male horse has won successive Arcs since 1978 (Today, ITV1, 1pm).

Jannik Sinner won the first five Masters events of the tennis year but seems unlikely to attend the next one, in Shanghai, after withdrawing from last week's China Open in Beijing thanks to a niggling knee injury. He could soon lose his No 1 ranking to Alexander Zverev, who has fewer points to defend in what's left of this season (starts Wednesday, Sky Sports Tennis, 5am).

Kimi Antonelli, Sinner's fellow Italian, hasn't been on pole position in a grand prix for five races but he still has a lead of 66 points in the Formula One drivers' championship. The circus rolls on to Bahrain this weekend. Actually, they're in Malaysia because of the war in the Middle East but branding is everything so Bahrain still gets its name on the trophy. Will Antonelli? (Today, Sky Sports F1, 8am).

THE OBSERVER

04|10|26

Tune in, log on

Seán O'Hagan: from Deadheads to tech bros

Secrets and lies William Boyd on the CIA's original culture wars

Rebel singer Killian Fox meets Lankum's Radie Peat

---

Agenda

The sharpest writing every Sunday for arts, science, books and ideas

---

Agenda 2-7

\- In Real Life Evan Moffitt visits Amy Winehouse's library; Stephen Armstrong finds a traditional joiner; Ella Katz stands up for a social club; and Jude Rogers goes GaGaia for the Alternative Miss World pageant

  • The grid A new exhibition dives into the art of swimming pools
  • Interview David Byrne on human ingenuity and filming his latest tour

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Critics 20-29

\- Kadish Morris meets pioneering photographer Lorna Simpson

  • Susannah Clapp sees Simon Russell Beale dazzle as Liberace
  • Laura Cumming enjoys the Riviera at the Royal Academy
  • Wendy Ide is disappointed by Tom Cruise vehicle Digger

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Features 8-19

\- Cover story Alex Ferguson's Games of My Life charts his career in 21 matches. He talks to Paul Hayward about life, love and football

  • Interview Killian Fox meets Radie Peat, who with Lankum and her new solo album is spearheading an Irish folk revival
  • Essay Seán O'Hagan on how the Grateful Dead and their tech pioneer fans anticipated our digital age
  • John Naughton on Meta's Muse

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Books 30-37

\- William Boyd revisits Who Paid the Piper?, an exposé of CIA meddling from Frances Stonor Saunders

  • Rachel Sylvester reviews Gordon Brown's The Future Starts With Us
  • Sarah Moss on Stations from Louise Kennedy, author of Trespasses
  • Kitty Empire reviews children's books for the spooky season

Puzzles & Television 38-48

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Puzzles & Television 38-48

\- Everyman crossword, sudoku, Gemelo, chess, guess the picture, cinema connect, Lexipedia quiz and Goldilocks crossword

  • The week's television and radio highlights
  • Barbara Ellen on the return of The Celebrity Traitors

Follow us on Instagram @ObsNewReview; email us at review@observer.co.uk

---

Contributors

Paul Hayward (p8) is an award-winning sports writer for The Observer. He has co-written books with Alex Ferguson, Bobby Robson and Kevin Sinfield.

Kadish Morris (p20) is a critic, editor, poet and regular contributor to The Observer. She won the Eric Gregory prize for poetry in 2020.

Sarah Moss (p34) lives in Dublin where she teaches creative writing. Her recent books include the memoir My Good Bright Wolf and the novel Ripeness.

Killian Fox (p12) is a prize-winning journalist and editor who writes for The Observer on subjects including art, food, music, photography, and graphic novels.

William Boyd (p30) is a novelist and screenwriter. Cold Sunset, the third volume of his Cold War-set Gabriel Dax spy trilogy, was published last month.

The big picture

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The big picture

Lee Martin finds an oasis in the claustrophobic crush of Notting Hill Carnival in the early 1990s

It couldn't really be from any other time or place. The photographer Lee Martin is unsure of the exact year but you can tell from the sunglasses and the baggy ikat trousers, the shell beads and the buttoned-up shirts that we are in early-1990s rave territory here. The framing and colour scheme feel appropriate to the era, with the faded pink and blue building exteriors adding to the general air of trippiness. Even the way

the guy on the first-floor balcony is dancing seems to place us at a very particular moment in British cultural history.

The photograph appears in Martin's new book Party & Protest London 1990s, which intersperses images of demonstrations – against the criminal justice bill, Margaret Thatcher's poll tax and other outrages – with scenes of communal revelry. These are the kinds of situations that Martin, who was

in his late 20s and fresh out of a postgraduate photography diploma (he now works as a picture editor at The Observer), seemed to stumble into whenever he took his camera for a walk. “Invariably, wherever I went, it was either a protest, a festival or a rave,” he recalls.

On this occasion it was the Notting Hill Carnival in, Martin reckons, 1993 or 1994.

"You go into this madness of crushed bodies and you get a little bit claustrophobic," he says of a typical carnival experience. "Sometimes you [end up in] a cul-de-sac and suddenly there's a sound system and people are letting rip. And that's what's happened here. I'd almost given up for the day because I was getting too hassled, too squeezed, and then I found myself in this blissful little oasis where people had room to dance – or they made room by getting up on walls and balconies."

He recalls some of the revellers urging him to get up and join them, but Martin demurred.

"The guy dancing on the balcony didn't stop for a minute. I think he was oblivious to everything apart from what was going on in his own head. As my partner said to me the other day: 'Everybody knew a bloke like that.' Killian Fox

Party & Protest London 1990s by Lee Martin is published by Café Royal Books

[In Real Life] Observations & scenes from the world beyond your phone screen

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[In Real Life] Observations & scenes from the world beyond your phone screen

THE ART WORLD Amy's library

The streets of Camden in north London are a shrine to Amy Winehouse. The late singer's painted face surveys the canal

waters from brick walls storeys-

high. If you want to get close to the

real-world “Valerie”, though, you’ll

have better luck at a flat on Chelsea

Embankment in the centre of the

capital, where more than 400 of

the books the performer owned are

on display at the Nicoletta Fiorucci

Foundation. Or, nearly; the library,

assembled by the artist Alex Margo

Arden, comprises volumes of the

same age, edition and condition as

those Winehouse owned, though

none of them were actually ever in

her possession. Arden calls them

“parallel objects”.

On a recent afternoon, Arden, 32, greets me at the landing of the flat-cum-gallery with a broad smile. Neck up, she is a vision of film noir glamour gone slightly blurry: cherry red lips, dark cat-eye liner and drawn-on beauty spots. Neck down, a frosted cupcake: frilly pink collar and pink halter, pink waitress apron, pink fishnet stockings and pink Adidas trainers.

Arden spotted many of the books in the online catalogue for the 2021 Beverly Hills auction of Winehouse's personal effects, though some of the pictures were so pixelated that “forensic” analysis was required to work out the titles on their spines. Others she found lurking in the background of tour photographs and fashion editorials shot in Winehouse's London home.

Most of the volumes are out-of-print paperbacks with glossy, candy bright covers. They have little resale value, so Arden struggled to track them down online. There are themes: books about Hollywood (biographies of Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, Dean Martin, Alfred Hitchcock); about music (Frank Sinatra, Bob Marley, Peggy Lee); about gangsters (Ronnie Kray); and a few literary choices: Mikhail Bulgakov's Master and Margarita, Tom Wolfe's The Bonfire of the Vanities, and Jean Rhys's Wide Sargasso Sea. We will never know whether Hilary Mantel's Beyond Black inspired the title of Winehouse's multi-platinum album Back to Black. I wonder, too, whether her music was influenced by her apparent love of Vladimir Nabokov, or sudoku.

Arden knows Winehouse's discography by heart. The singer was a larger-than-life figure when Arden was growing up in Croydon, south London, her adolescence framed by the albums Frank (2003) and the posthumous Lioness: Hidden Treasures (2011). "I don't trust anyone who's not a fan of Amy Winehouse," she says. Her favourite song is "definitively Love Is a Losing Game".

I ask Arden if she picked up her cat-eye makeup from Winehouse. "I don't think I do it like her, do you?" she replies, though they use the same eyeliner. It's there, lying in a vitrine, along with immaculate blush pads and compacts, some of them long discontinued. Like the books, Arden matched them to make-up she found in photographs of Winehouse.

Because her “music and likeness are endlessly being monetised. There’s deliberately none of her face, none of her music” in the show, Arden says. That may be, but we both can sense Amy in the air. Diffusers throughout the gallery dispense a fragrance that Arden says Winehouse most likely wore. It smells floral, with a hint of vanilla.

Arden has titled the exhibition Nothing Personal. But it's paradoxical that all these imitations seem to bring you closer to the star than the genuine articles. There's nothing mythical about the eyelash curler or the Sophie Dahl magazine covers hanging above the gallery's fireplace, which Winehouse also apparently hung above her own hearth alongside portraits of her family. The star was a fangirl, too.

Slate grey light streams in off the Thames. The sky is just beginning to sing an October song. Arden points out a stack of jigsaw puzzles that Winehouse owned. "She really was into mindfulness – she went through a recovery programme," she says.

We turn to a card showing an elderly married couple, which Mark Ronson and Adele brought to Winehouse's 25th birthday party. The singer never showed up, later telling the press she felt “too ugly” from a relapse. Arden found the original photographic negative of the couple, made the card from scratch and forged the signatures. “She never received this card,” Arden says. “It was meant to be humorous, but as time passes, it’s like: Mark Ronson and Adele are still alive. They get to grow old.” Evan Moffitt

Illustrations

by Oscar Ingham

THE WORKING LIFE

I came, I saw

lot of times,

someone will

ring and say can I

speak to Jack," says

a grinning Ben

Naylor, managing

director “and chief bottle washer” of Glossop-based traditional joiners Jack Badger. “We have to explain that a jack badger is a medieval plane with an angled blade.”

It's not the only medieval carpenters' tool the company uses: there are scratch stocks, for carving shapes into wood; hand-cranked brace and bit drills; a froe, an L-shaped hand tool that can be hit with a mallet to split wood along the grain; an adze, an axe-like tool with curved blade set perpendicular to the handle; not to mention pegs and wedges, and a self-tightening drawbore peg.

A Jack Badger door in a church or country house should look and feel identical to the ancient original it is replacing, as it's made in – broadly speaking – the same way with the same tools. So you'd imagine this was something of a niche company. In fact, your correspondent assumed it was more of a hobby than a going concern when he first encountered it. Two men in a shed in Glossop, I figured. Cute.

But the firm is currently working with Amber Lewis, dubbed “LA’s most influential interior designer” by Los Angeles magazine, as well as wealthy clients in Montana, Mallorca and Denmark. “In Denmark, the guy wants a room like The Lord of the Rings,” Naylor says. “They want a library with a tree growing up through the middle. It’s not really what we do, but I can see why they came to us.”

They're also working all over the Cotswolds renovating homes for US billionaires, the designers Marc Newson and Jony Ive – best known for his work for Apple – and a number of celebrities that NDAs prohibit him from naming. And while Naylor and co-founder Rob Edwards did indeed start out in his dad's shed in 2010, they now employ 30 people in a former brewery in Old Glossop, Derbyshire, which they bought about six months ago, with the old brewery's bar intact.

Naylor, an affable 42-year-old in jeans and a jumper, knew he wanted to be a joiner at the age of 14. He had a job in the school holidays with John Hetherington, a local firm, where he fell in love with “slow-grown timbers and specialist sawing techniques”. His parents lived in a farmhouse in Old Glossop, in the High Peak area of Derbyshire, some 15 miles outside Manchester, and his dad had turned his hand to ancient stonemasonry.

With the founding of Jack Badger, Old Glossop has developed something of a traditional skills cluster: three companies of joiners, ancient stonemasons, experts in woven caning for the seats and backs of old chairs, and traditional slate roofers. If you want a house built in the medieval or early modern styles, the old town can do pretty much everything for you. And its appeal is spreading.

“I was in Haverfordwest in the van recently,” Naylor says. “This guy stopped me and said that if I was Jack Badger he’d do anything to work for us, even just sweep up.” He shakes his head, bemused.

Glossop has struggled since its mills and factories closed in the 20th century. Most of the homes built after the Second World War were for people working in Manchester. Now there are people travelling there purely to work for the traditional skills companies. “There’s a massive change in how many people want to be joiners,” Naylor explains. “When I started, it was all about uni degrees. We’re trying to scale and we’re getting lots of applications from apprentices and joiners who’ve found our work.”

One way to get him riled up is to mention Ikea. “It’s a problem in a world where resources are getting burnt through faster than you can shake a stick at. I’m not just talking about oil, I’m talking about wood,” he says. “I see some of the stuff that’s made. There’s good stuff you could have done with that wood and you’ve just made a piece of shit. Do something that’s beneficial, not just future landfill.”

He has an idea for quality flatpack furniture, but needs to grow the company a lot more first. "Our business model is very different to most," Naylor explains. "I say to people: 'I don't want you to ever come back to me again, unless you move house. If you're coming back in 50 years, then we've messed up.' Some of the doors we're replacing have lasted 800 years. That's what we should be doing." Stephen Armstrong

COMMUNITY LIFE Made for sharing

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COMMUNITY LIFE Made for sharing

When I arrive at the meeting, there are no seats left. People are fanning themselves with pamphlets collected from a table by the door. SET Social, Peckham's beloved community arts space and social club known for its eclectic programming and cheap drinks, is facing temporary closure by property developer the Cherwell Group. More than 100 south Londoners are here to save it. Revolution is in the air and there's focaccia on the table at the back (help yourselves).

Conall Monaghan, 32, co-runs the hub's community garden and is spearheading the grassroots campaign Save Our SET tonight in a boxy black shirt and a thin layer of forehead sweat. "It's great to see so many people here who share the enthusiasm for SET..." He begins in his Kildare accent, but he can't finish because someone has broken into enthusiastic applause. The room giggles and Monaghan starts again.

The bar/gallery/community space is in a church hall whose noticeboards are filled with posters for lesbian film screenings and a Mahjong club. The eclecticism is what gives SET Social its charm. You could just as easily find yourself in the middle of a Marx reading group as a Hinge date (the talking points of which, from personal experience, can be eerily similar).

Art-school energy drives the place, but its foundations are sturdier. SET (not affiliated with Save Our SET) is a decade-old charity that finds vacant buildings across London

\- often awaiting redevelopment, referred to as “meanwhile spaces” – to transform into artist studios and community spaces. SET Social is one of many. Several charities use the space too (at reduced or waived fees), including KeyRing Living Support Network, which works with adults with disabilities, and Arts for Dementia. It’s also one of the few places in south London you can go for a pint after midnight if you’d rather sink into deep leather sofas than stand on a sticky club floor.

The Cherwell Group's proposal would displace every group that uses SET Social during the building period, and eventually rehome them in a “new improved community space” (a sleek but sad-looking co-working hall) at the bottom of four storeys of “purpose-built shared living” apartments.

After a group brainstorming exercise and a quick focaccia break, Labour councillor Jasmine Ali rises from her seat. “It’s a great meeting, real buzz and everything...” I watch two women exchange glances at

her teacherly tone. But the people of Southwark need housing, Jasmine suggests. Large families are living in one-bed flats. "We need to respect the area we live in."

The room erupts with dismay. A voice in the back wins out and everyone swivels around to find him. "It's thousands [of pounds] a month for a single HMO [house in multiple occupancy] room," he says. "Not a single one of those households is going to be placed in the development that Cherwell is proposing." Everyone applauds and Ali sits back down.

It's almost 9pm on a Thursday and office leavers in pale blue shirts now have navy circles at their armpits. A woman bunches up her hair with one hand and fans the nape of her neck with the other. People are tired, but fuelled by the spirit of the fight – determined that their meanwhile space lives on. Ella Katz

ON THE STAGE Miss Demeanour

📖 中文精读 ↗

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ON THE STAGE Miss Demeanour

On a rainy Sunday night at the Regent's Park Open Air Theatre, a silver crocodile is causing havoc on a stage

strewn with glitter and flowers. So are five naked women in body paint, cutting off their woollen umbilical cords; and a contestant covered from head to toe in white feathers, slathered in imitation crude oil.

The Alternative Miss World pageant is a contest founded in 1972 by artist and sculptor Andrew Logan. Contestants perform in three categories (daywear, evening wear and swimwear) and are judged on criteria inspired by Logan's visit to Crufts in his youth (poise, personality and originality).

"We're open to all, any age, any gender," Logan tells me a few days before the event, getting ready to co-host with actor Eve Ferret, while finishing off the bags of prizes for all 16 contestants. "I mean, one year a robot won, Miss Rosa Bosom, operated by the artist Bruce Lacey." This year's judges include couture milliner Piers Atkinson, actor Hayley Mills and Jarvis Cocker.

How would Logan describe the event to a newcomer?

the New Romantics. Alternative Miss World also had illustrious alumni from the start: Derek Jarman won in 1975, performing as Miss Crepe Suzette, David Hockney judged it twice (“he was very, very supportive”) and Divine hosted in 1978 in a giant tent on Clapham Common.

Director Richard Gayer made a film of that night, which the Miss World organisation, led by founder Eric Morley, tried but failed to stop from being screened. Logan's barrister was a young Tony Blair. "He had wonderful teeth," Logan recalls.

As well as reflecting a love of natural forms, which Logan has always celebrated in his sculptures and jewellery, this year's theme, Gaia, is also in tribute to film director Gayer, who died last year. This is noted on the imitation seed bags handed out to the audience on arrival. They contain a single bean to plant: "Firm, tasty fruits, perfect for competitions. Prolific, high-yielding, sweet and occasionally tender. Grow and show outdoors."

The crowds whirl in early for the pre-show entertainments, many in extravagant costumes. By the bar, the Norwich Kitwitches revive the East Anglian folk art of Molly dancing, performing in neon wigs and foam boobs to the bouncy groans of an accordion (“we’re remembering what old ploughboys did in the winter to get money,” says one of them, a green-painted woman called Barbara).

On stage, Logan arrives in a costume of cerulean blue, gold and bronze, like a deconstructed world map. As has been the case since 1972, his outfit approximates traditionally male dress on the right and female on the left, inspired by a music-hall outfit he found in a jumble sale in his teens.

“Thank you, Mother Earth!” he says, raising his hands to the rain. He grimaces slightly, then goes back to his practically permanent smile. “She’s dripping a bit!”

Then come the contestants, whose names alone – Mother Girth, Miss Mortal Coil, Miss Lady GaGaia – deserve prizes. Miss Guy AI sings a folk song while dressed as a bush. Miss Anthropocene is three people, walking crab-like, attached to blow-up dolls. Miss Diagnosis throws Tunnock's teacakes into the audience.

This guy stopped me and said that if I was Jack Badger he'd do anything to work for us, even sweep up

📖 中文精读 ↗

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This guy stopped me and said that if I was Jack Badger he'd do anything to work for us, even sweep up

"I've always called it a surreal art event for all-round family entertainment," he says, adding that it's also a celebration of DIY creativity. "It's to do with what we can make with the wonders of our hands, which means even more in an age of AI."

Logan has been one of the alternative art world's most welcoming and well-connected people for decades. The Sex Pistols played their first gig at a 1976 Valentine's Day party at his London Butler's Wharf studio, which became a counterculture hub that helped punk to develop and led to

My favourite moment is when Fiontasia – Fiontán Bleau Moran – swirls on to the stage in his “nightwear”, a voluminous costume that makes him look like a mythical dervish, an avant-garde ballerina and an extraordinary butterfly. When he wins, Logan gives him a jewelled crown, mace and ring, and dishes out presents to the others.

Then the singer David McAlmont, resplendent in daffodil yellow, leads everyone in He's Got The Whole World In His Hands. Logan throws his arms into the air. The soggy audience sings along, beaming. Jude Rogers

STILL SHOWING Observer critics' takes on the events not to miss

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Art

"The surface twinkles with oleaginous oil paint. Daisies stand proud of it in thick white discs. Somewhere in the middle, or so it is said, the brim of an oversized hat hangs over a mysterious face." Richard Dadd: Beyond Bedlam is at the Royal Academy, London, until 25 October. Laura Cumming

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Classical

A double bill of Bartók's Bluebeard's Castle and Stravinsky's Oedipus Rex are brought together in a Welsh National Opera production that tours to Llandudno, Southampton, Oxford and Plymouth, until 28 November. It is “a display of survival and pluck”. Fiona Maddocks

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Film

"There are moments in Na Hong-jin's marathon South Korean monster movie that are as audacious and dazzlingly executed as anything you'll see in the cinema this year." Hope is still showing in cinemas nationwide. Wendy Ide

[NOW BOOKING] Music

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[NOW BOOKING] Music

Tickets for Cambridge Folk Festival at Cherry Hinton Hall are on sale now. The line-up for the three-day festival, which runs from running 30 July to 1 August still to be announced.

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Dance

Renaissance tragedy meets Mean Girls meets 80s slasher movie in Carlos Pons Guerra's

Edward II, an adaptation of Christopher Marlowe's play from DeNada Dance Theatre. The show opens at Stanley & Audrey Burton Theatre, Leeds, on 30 October, and then tours.

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Literature

Tickets are still available for select events at Manchester Literature Festival, taking place in venues across the city from

9 to 25 October. Highlights include Observer Book Club conversations with Hernan Diaz, Deborah Frances-White, Min Jin Lee and Yann Martel.

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The grid

An exhibition in a Swiss town where swimming pools replaced a lake puts our relationship with water in the frame

Its name means “the lake” in French, and the town of Le Locle in Switzerland is shaped by its relationship to water. Through urban expansion, the eponymous lake disappeared; Federica Chiocchetti, the former director of the Museum of Fine Arts Le Locle (MBAL), explains that this led to compensation via large public swimming pools.

Her final project at MBAL: For One Solid Time, Wet: The Swimming Pool in the Imagination, is a multimedia homage to Le Locle's pools. With painting, sculpture, photography and installations, the exhibition also explores ecological precarity and

refutes rumours about MBAL's site being replaced by an indoor pool. “I wanted to transform the threat – and the ideas connected to it, regarding power, aspiration and modernity – into something positive,” says Chiocchetti.

Co-curated with writer Lou Stoppard, the exhibition explores the pool as an entrancing recurring motif in contemporary art, spanning well-known names like Hockney and Sultan to newer artists like Nazgol Ansarinia and Mary Stephenson. “There is a lot of work within the show that celebrates the pool for its beauty, its associations with leisure and joy,” says Stoppard, “[And] also works that probe themes connected to inequality, water crisis, urbanisation and the human desire to dominate nature.”

The works accordingly take us from nostalgic past to murkier future. “[There’s] a room that asks visitors to consider what is next for the pool, in these uncertain times of environmental crisis,” says Stoppard, “Is the pool still a symbol of happiness and dreaming, or something darker?” Tara Joshi

For One Solid Time, Wet: The Swimming Pool in the Imagination runs at MBAL, Switzerland, until 21 February 2027

David Byrne Singer and author, 74

📖 中文精读 ↗

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David Byrne Singer and author, 74

'Even things that are on the internet are often overlooked': David Byrne

Contour RA by Getty Images

The former Talking Heads frontman on forgotten examples of human ingenuity, evolutionary biology and filming his tour

David Byrne is a polymath who began his career with Talking Heads. Since their 1991 spilt, Byrne, who was born in Scotland and raised in Canada and the US, has released 12 solo albums, sometimes in collaboration with artists such as Brian Eno and St Vincent, as well as film scores, including for The Last Emperor (1987). He is a visual artist, co-founder of the Luaka Bop label and the author of books including 2012's How Music Works. In 2020, Spike Lee directed a film of Byrne's American Utopia solo tour. Byrne's new book is Sleeping Beauties: Why Good Ideas Go Dormant and How They Wake Up. He lives in New York.

The phrase ‘sleeping beauties’ describes dormant scientific knowledge that’s been reawakened. What moved you to write this book about the life cycles of ideas and artworks? I stumbled on the science paper [Sleeping Beauties in Science, Anthony van Raan, Leiden University 2004] and I immediately thought, oh, what a catchy phrase, what a memorable way of expressing this phenomenon. I thought, this doesn’t just apply to science papers. This applies to, well, everything. We all know examples from our own lives of things we love that were unappreciated, then maybe rediscovered. It took on a life of its own, and whenever I stumbled on a story, I thought, OK, that deserves further research.

One of the lesser-known beauties in the book is the thousand-year-old water-management system of south India, restored by 'lakeman' Anand Malligavad, among others. It might be well known to people in Bengaluru that the Chola water management system was something that existed, covering the whole southern end of that continent. They're having water issues now because of having abandoned that a few hundred years ago. It made me think that maybe a number of these stories are really western-oriented. They're about western Europe not getting something; about the west not being ready to accept something, or not knowing about something that was known by the Arabs, that was known by central Asia, known by the Chinese. And without making western Europe into always the guilty party, it does point out that knowledge is sometimes more local than we tend to think. We tend to think that once something's known, it's known everywhere. And it's not, even in this age of the internet.

Another hidden figure is the evolutionary biologist Lynn Margulis. She's amazing. Boy, did she face some uphill battles. What she proposed was that the cells of every animal and plant took their current form by a process of symbiotic union, that the mitochondria were separate living bacteria. At some point, they got surrounded and captured. And the entity that did the capturing, then provided a kind of protection for what became our mitochondria. In return, the mitochondria became an engine that dealt with the energy-producing elements that the cell needed. And the same thing for plants. That idea met with resistance, and it was finally proven, to her great relief.

We can sum up Sleeping Beauties as ideas ‘ahead of their time’. But you point out how that phrase presumes a linear progression from an ignorant past to the present, where we know everything, and it’s better.

It becomes evident as people read the stories in the book that things get forgotten. Knowledge, once acquired, is not always for ever. Sometimes it goes away again. Even things that are on the internet are

often overlooked. So yes, progress ... there might be a kind of lurching forward, and then kind of a retreat. And then another lurch sideways.

Are there art or music sleeping beauties you want to shine a light on? There are lots of personal favourites, but as far as mass acceptance, there's African pop music. The current crop of African artists are now fully going into the pop mainstream, whether they're South African or Nigerian or whatever. That would have been unheard of years ago.

Your recent tours have been based on choreographing an always-moving band. Where did that idea come from? When I started performing with Talking Heads, I didn't know how to move. I didn't want to adopt the received modes of movement that were already prevalent in rock bands because I thought, well, they've already done that. After one of our tours, probably in the early 80s, I stayed on in Japan, and went to see Japanese traditional theatre, kabuki and bunraku and noh. Once you step on stage, you can't pretend everything is just natural. If you try to go for naturalism, that's a mask – just as much as a kabuki or noh mask. Of course, I don't wear a mask [on stage]. But I realised that, movement doesn't have to be naturalistic. It's another layer, like the music or the lyrics, that tells another parallel story.

Is there any area of human endeavour that leaves you cold?

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Is there any area of human endeavour that leaves you cold?

I'm getting a little tired of every conversation being about AI at the moment. Not that it's not fascinating or won't have a huge impact, but can we talk about other things? Can we not talk about Trump?

There will soon be a film of your most recent concert tour, Who Is the Sky?, directed by Brady Corbet (The Brutalist). He shot in 70mm film. Why? Christopher Nolan, watch out! A lot of digital cameras and film try to emulate 35mm images, which are about the size of a large postage stamp. With 70mm, each frame is larger, it's almost the size of a credit card. Obviously, you get more resolution but something else happens as well. 70mm approximates a little bit closer to what the eye sees. You can take in a wide vista, the whole view, your eye kind of scans around, as it would when you're walking on the street, or in a landscape.

Are you pleased with what you've seen? I've seen the first song, Heaven, which is all one shot. It looks great! Interview by Kitty Empire

I'm getting a little tired of AI. Can we talk about something else? Can we not talk about Trump?

Sleeping Beauties is published by Canongate on 8 October (£26). Subscribers receive a 20% discount off RRP when ordering from observershop.co.uk.

‘It was always more to do with the people than the games’

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‘It was always more to do with the people than the games’

Alex Ferguson's new memoir is a life story in 21 matches. In a rare and wide-ranging interview, he tells Paul Hayward why his love of family, his heritage of hard graft and a gift for managing young players were key to his success

The first thing Alex Ferguson does in his study after saying hello is point to a new item in his extensive collection of books on

the assassination of John F Kennedy: The Devil's Chessboard by David Talbot. Ferguson dives straight into a subject that's captivated him since he heard about the shooting 63 years ago as a young footballer.

On the former Manchester United manager's bookshelves there is a gilded leather copy of the Warren commission report into the fatal shooting in Dallas in November 1963. Talbot's book, which rests on his desk, sends Ferguson into fresh hypothesising about who did it. He has his theories.

He remembers being in the bathroom shaving for a Friday night of dancing when his father called out: "Is that right that John Kennedy has been shot?" His son called back: "Dad, you're deaf – you're imagining it." In his own new book, Games of My Life, Ferguson recalls the minute's silence for Kennedy later at the dance and writes: "JFK's death seemed to cast a darker pall over everything happening in my life – the handsome, decorated war veteran, shot at the age of 46."

Since retiring from his role at United in 2013 with 13 Premier League titles, two Champions League victories and five FA Cups, Ferguson, 84, has become something of an archivist of his own past. To the autobiography he wrote in 1999, Managing My Life, he added a second volume, My Autobiography, then a book about management called Leading. A documentary, Sir Alex Ferguson: Never Give In, traced the story from his days as a firebrand trade unionist to the brain haemorrhage in May 2018 that nearly killed him. The new book, which stretches his literary output to a quartet, is a 21-match rumination on a youth spent in the shipyards of Glasgow, playing and managing in Scotland and the glories of his 27-year reign at United. He says all these projects have been important to help him stay mentally active.

My own relationship with him started in the 1990s with a couple of big newspaper interviews. For a football writer, a one-on-one with “Fergie” was the golden “get”, and daunting, because he expected high standards from interviewers. Those pieces probably helped to generate the offer, as a long-term project, to co-write that second autobiography in 2013. At every step in the writing process, he was intensely committed to reaching the highest possible level of memoir. To listen to him describe his work for hours on end felt like a revelation.

Far left, Alex Ferguson in the Old Trafford dressing room in 2011 and, left, notes he took during a coaching course. Sean Pollock, Courtesy of Sir Alex Ferguson and Pan Macmillan

Right, a young Ferguson exercising at home and, below, a fan banner at Old Trafford in 2013.

AFP/Getty Images

Together again now, we admire his collection of books by the peerless biographer Robert Caro, and in particular, Working, a bible of reportage with a title that might sum up Ferguson's own devotion to hard graft.

Games of My Life reflects this. It isn't a collection of greatest hits: more an arc of character formation, spanning 69 years of matches. He reckons he played or managed in more than 2,800 official fixtures, plus another 300 exhibition matches, in 61 countries.

The 21 chosen games flow from the park pitches of Scotland to his two seasons playing for Rangers, and on to a stellar management career with Aberdeen and United. "I could easily have done it just with games for Man Utd," he says. "But Jason [his son] reminded me about all the games I'd played for Glasgow schools, Drumchapel Amateurs and so on."

In the days

that followed

his brain

haemorrhage,

Ferguson lost

the power of

speech and made

notes to reboot

his memory

There's no place, therefore, for the mad night in Barcelona in 1999, when United completed the hallowed treble of Premier League, FA Cup, and Champions League, where they scored two goals in injury time against Bayern Munich in a game that felt like a heartbreak in slow motion until a miracle intervened.

"It's been well recorded – you see it every minute of your life," Ferguson says, explaining the omission. "Although it was probably the most important game for me because I'd never won a European Cup. It would have been a shame going through my career not having done that. Getting the holy grail was always in the back of my mind. [But] the games that really spring to mind are to do with people, more than the games."

Among many poignant chapters is the final one. A glass case opposite his armchair contains a solitary Scotland cap. Ferguson points at it and tells the story of how the Scottish Football Association (SFA) made him wait 54 years before letting him have one. Nobody in football had ever defied Ferguson for that long.

In the summer of 1967, he was part of a summer tour by the Scotland team and played four matches against countries – Israel, and Australia three times – plus three against invitational sides. He scored nine times on the trip. The SFA, however, called it a B-team tour because club commitments had forced so many players to withdraw. That ruling gnawed at him for more than half a century.

erguson is a deeply proud Scot who still takes the Sunday Post, named his first house in Manchester "Fairfields" after the

Govan shipyard where his father worked, and brings tattie scones (potato cakes) back home to Cheshire on every trip to Glasgow. He was never going to accept the authorities denying him his place on Scotland's honours board alongside Kenny Dalglish, Denis Law and Graeme Souness.

Still staring at the cap in the cabinet, he says: “I wrote a nice letter to the SFA and said: ‘This is not a vanity thing – this is a plea for you to understand what it is to play for your country.’ So the SFA decided to give me a cap, along with three

other players. The cap says ‘summer tour’. Nonetheless, I got a cap.” He says now that the award “put a bow on my entire life”.

Ferguson knows he can count himself lucky to have been around to fill that gap in his memorabilia collection. One May morning eight years ago he climbed out of bed with “a savage headache” and “collapsed against a shoe rack”. Wearing her new hearing aid, his late wife, Cathy, heard the crash and summoned Jason, who lived nearby. Ferguson woke in Salford Royal hospital after an operation to relieve bleeding on his brain. The first question he asked when he regained consciousness was how the team his son Darren was managing, Doncaster Rovers, had fared against Wigan Athletic. Ferguson was among five patients operated on for brain haemorrhages at the hospital that day; only two survived.

In the days that followed, he lost the power of speech and scribbled notes to himself to reboot his memory. He was terrified by the loss of a voice that everyone who played for him has since had embedded in the soundtrack of his life. But, by late September, four months after

the brain haemorrhage, he was back at Old Trafford to see United draw with Wolverhampton Wanderers – one of the games in the book. Cathy, who rarely went to matches, was beside him. “I might have managed Manchester United,” he says now, “but Cathy was the one who managed Ferguson United.”

She died in 2023. Her absence from his life after their 59 years together casts a shadow of pain across the house: "Fifty-nine years is a long time," he says. "There was a huge religious part of Cathy, and she always regarded herself as a wife and mother. She never involved herself in my life as a manager. Never complained about it, because she knew it was my job. A fantastic wife, and for the boys – brilliant.

“She was a great judge of people. Very careful with people who wanted to be friendly with me. She never made it here [to his current house]. We got married on the Saturday morning and I played in the afternoon.”

Ferguson the raconteur is never subdued for long. Almost his defining characteristic is the urge

Clockwise from left, a young Ferguson with his father and grandparents; with his wife Cathy in the early 1960s; a team photo from Govan high school

in 1955,

Ferguson is in

the bottom row,

second from

right; as a baby.

Courtesy of Sir Alex

Ferguson and Pan

Macmillan

Continued from page 9

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Continued from page 9

to tell funny stories and laugh. Thinking back, he remembers meeting Cathy's mother and her asking: "Do you drink, mister?" Ferguson is roaring now as he recalls shouting back: "My name's Alec!"

In a tenement block in Govan, Ferguson's parents "slept in a recessed bed in the kitchen" because one of the two bedrooms had been rented out to an Irish family. Ferguson and his brother, Martin, slept in the other. "That flat was the making of me, the place where I developed my inner confidence and my drive to succeed," he writes.

On the certificate confirming he'd passed his apprenticeship as a toolmaker, the skills listed might apply equally to his talent for honing players: "milling, shaping, slotting, turning and all forms of grinding".

The Fergusons were what George Orwell might have characterised as proud working class: smart, trade unionised and football-obsessed. Ferguson first saw United play in May 1953, when they came to Hampden Park to face Rangers in the Coronation Cup. Three decades later, he was to become the new Matt Busby: as much patriarch and overlord as mere head coach of United.

Float the theory to him that to be a truly great football manager you need an aura, charisma, force of character, and his eyes glow in recognition. “Absolutely. Stein. Big Jock. I enjoyed my time with him. That aura. Shanks [Bill Shankly, manager of Liverpool from 1959-74] had the aura too. You wanted to be like them.”

JFK aside, his book collection leans to the great man of history school of politics. He was fascinated too by Hitler and Stalin, but not because, as some might think, he modelled his management style on tyrants.

"Do people really think I could have won all those trophies just by shouting at people?" he once asked me, when we worked on his memoir.

My theory was that he was, above all, a professor of human nature, a skilled reader of people's inner beings, especially young footballers. A successful manager is someone who persuades other people to do what they, the manager, wants – or needs – them to do, even if it's not necessarily in their interests; who packages a sometimes gruelling daily commitment as a moral duty, to team, to club and as the only path to fulfilment.

The Fergusons were what Orwell called proud working class: smart, trade unionised, football- obsessed

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The Fergusons were what Orwell called proud working class: smart, trade unionised, football- obsessed

Ferguson doesn't deny it now, and refers straight away to “my experience of being a shop steward in the engineering department [of typewriter manufacturer Remington Rand]. When we went on strike, I called the apprentices together. The strike was to give the apprentices better standards and salaries. Our salaries were fine. We were an American firm. But we had a duty to help the rest. Everybody out – that was the core message. Everyone was hitting their machines with hammers and mallets. It was exciting.”

He adds: “I liked to get players in my office. I liked to talk to them. I did that sometimes with the younger ones. I would tell them a story or something. On my wall, I had a photograph of when they were building the Rockefeller Center, when they workers are sitting way up on the girder.”

He would show that famous photo (Lunch atop a Skyscraper, 1932) to the apprentices and say: "See that? Not a bit of fear. And I'm asking you to go out there [on the pitch]. If I ever see you jumping out of a tackle, I'll take you [up] to that [girder].

"The other thing I stuck to was – be consistent. I never changed in my beliefs, with young players, whether

I was at St Mirren or Aberdeen or United. It was always there. I thought it was right. I thought it was good to produce young players. I produced dozens of players from the United academy who became internationals, which is pretty good."

Standards were another motif. "Discipline. When I went in, they didn't have blazers. I thought: 'Man Utd!' Right away, I got blazers. When you're walking through an airport, people would think: 'They're Man United.' If you go through in denims and leather jackets, nobody is going to notice that. The badge tells everybody."

It was a managerial career that began in 1974 when he “rolled up to the doors of East Stirlingshire in my Ford estate” to work with a transfer budget of £2,000 and players on between £5 and £8 a week. He left behind a respectable career as a combative centre-forward in something of a golden age of Scottish strikers: hence, he says, his struggle to earn full Scotland caps.

Those closest to him speak of adaptation as being one of his hallmarks, from trying to keep journeymen players out of the pub in Scottish football's backwaters to exerting mastery over Cristiano Ronaldo, Eric Cantona, Wayne Rooney, David Beckham, Roy Keane,

Left, Ferguson warming up for the Scotland youth team in the 1950s and, right, in his Manchester United managerial office in 2010. Courtesy of Sir Alex Ferguson and Pan Macmillan

Left, with Cathy in New York and, right, at Hampden Park in 2021 with his Scotland cap, which 'put a bow on my entire life'. Courtesy of Sir Alex Ferguson and Pan Macmillan, SNS Group/Getty Images

Ryan Giggs and countless others. His fallouts with Beckham and Keane were tests of his authority that ended with the two superstars expelled and the manager's dominion intact. Keane once said to him, during one of their rows: "You've changed." And Ferguson fired back: "You're right, I've changed. I wouldn't still be here if I hadn't."

In the age of directors of football, vast management structures and armies of data analysts, Ferguson's reign can feel both an increasingly remote memory increasingly remote memory and one worth pining for. The certainties (and the trophies) of his time in charge of United evoke the sense that something irrecoverable has been lost; that Premier League football is now entirely transactional and lacks the spiritual grandeur brought to the game by Jock Stein, Bill Shankly, Busby, Arsène Wenger and Ferguson: benevolent dictators.

In the book he writes: “If I were a manager nowadays, I would still want to have ultimate control over everything to do with the football operations – everything. If the manager is the man held responsible for the results, then he deserves the authority.”

The notes preserved in the book are also intriguing. He says: “I had pads and pads. I was making notes all the time. Mainly about activity at the club, players who’d been in to see me – and on games. You can do management a lot of ways. When I was at Rangers I never saw the manager, Scot Symon, with a tracksuit on, ever. He wore a bowler hat and waistcoat – immaculately dressed.”

United's churn of managers since he retired (there have been 11 in 13 years) is off-limits in interviews; to avoid the back-page news cycle and show respect to whichever United manager is trying to turn things round. His own troubled start at Old Trafford was immortalised in 1989 by a message painted on a bedsheet: "3 YEARS OF EXCUSES AND IT'S STILL CRAP... TA RA FERGIE."

But he does say: “The great thing about supporting United is that you have those highs when they turn it on and win a big game. It’s always an exciting way that they do it. There’s no kick it up the park and win a free kick. The way I look at it is – I still enjoy going because the support is always there.

"I'm saying to myself: '75,000, every week.' There can't be a more loyal fanbase than that. People say it's going back to the Munich

“

'I might have

managed

Manchester

United,' he

says, 'but my

wife Cathy

managed

Ferguson

United'

air disaster [and afterwards]. I still hang on to that a bit, because there were always these great players around in my time. Denis Law used to come into training. Nobby Stiles was a youth coach with me for a while. And Bobby Charlton ...[an] absolutely magnificent man."

If his study has the feel of a retired academic's lair, with books spread around, he admits to reading less now, as many would in their 80s. To his old interests in wine, racehorses and the JFK assassination, he has added support for dementia charities. He bought a house in Glasgow to be closer to his brother Martin, who has the condition, and to “make sure Cathy’s memorial is being looked after and is in good shape”.

A dinner in London hosted by Jackie Stewart for his Race Against Dementia charity stirred Ferguson's concerns around an illness that has afflicted hundreds of ex-footballers. "I worried about that myself because I headed the ball a lot," he says. "All footballers did. Dementia's a challenge for anyone getting older. You worry about it a lot. I always say to myself: 'I'm 84 [laughing]. If I get to 85, I'll be all right.'" To comfort himself, he thinks of Jake LaMotta, the boxer portrayed in Martin Scorsese's

Raging Bull, having 106 fights but still living to 95.

"He recognises me, which is great," Ferguson says of his brother. "In Glasgow, they started a music thing [Playlist for Life, a music and dementia charity], and the idea is that you give them a box with all your favourite songs in it. They can just press a button to play them, and it brings all the memories back." He donated £100,000 and submitted a playlist with songs by Frank Sinatra, Nat King Cole, Elvis Presley, the Beatles and Dusty Springfield. And he added a song that "reminds me of the lap of honour at Old Trafford when Manchester United won the Premier League for the first time in 1993". It was bound to be Queen's We Are the Champions.

With a foot in a medical boot from an achilles injury, Ferguson is currently on light duties, managing his energy. But as I leave, he's laughing as he accompanies me to the front door, saying: "I'm still alive, anyway." He was always fiercely and inexhaustibly alive.

Games of My Life by Alex Ferguson with Michael Moritz is published by Pan Macmillan on 8 October (£40). Subscribers receive a 20% discount off RRP when ordering from observershop.co.uk

Radie Peat, the musician who helped Lankum earn a Mercury prize nomination, is at the forefront of a folk revival. She tells Killian Fox why the songs on her debut solo album chime with a country that's reinventing its traditional culture

The voice of a new Ireland

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The voice of a new Ireland

ne recent weekday evening, in the side room of a pub on Dublin's northside, eight musicians face one another around a couple of low tables. With pints to hand, they run through a series of instrumental numbers – Brendan Tonra's, Apples in Winter – to the delight of the other drinkers gathered around them. There's very little formality here; between songs, the players chat among themselves and to their audience, who swell to a grand total of 12, many of them friends and family.

In the back-left corner, flanked by a pair of fiddlers, a woman is playing concertina with a look of rapt concentration. If you were to wander in by chance, you might be struck by her appearance – she has short, reddish-gold hair and arresting blue eyes, and wears silver hoop earrings – as well as her sureness with her instrument. But you probably wouldn't guess, because she doesn't open her mouth to sing once this evening, that she has one of the most extraordinary voices of her generation – in Ireland or anywhere else.

Radie Peat is primarily known as a member of Lankum, the Dublin band who have done more than any other in recent years to raise the profile of contemporary Irish folk music. She also sings and plays in a couple of other groups, notably ∅XN, who in 2023 put out an acclaimed LP, CYRM. Now she's getting ready to release her own debut solo album, years in the making. It will, according to Dublin folk star John Francis Flynn, help cement Peat's reputation as one of the most important musicians in the country's history. But tonight, in the back of this pub where she plays every week – Peat begged me not to reveal its name for fear of overexposure – she's just one unassuming part of a greater musical collective.

We meet the previous day at a house on Henrietta Street, a once-grand Georgian terrace where the photoshoot for this article is taking place. Peat arrives pale from a poor night's sleep, clutching a cup of coffee. If you know the artist mainly from her appearances in Lankum videos, which range from the unsmiling to the eerily witchlike (see Go Dig My Grave), you'd be forgiven for expecting a severe presence. Flynn, who was friendly with Peat's younger sister growing up,

used to be terrified of her. “She was just very cool,” he tells me, adding that his impressions changed when he got to know her in adulthood: “She was still very cool, but much less scary.”

When we settle down in the cavernous first-floor drawing room, with cracked plaster walls and a case of stuffed birds in one corner, I find Peat engaging, thoughtful and funny, but with a reserve that becomes apparent whenever I ask a probing question, making it clear that she won't go into details about her personal life.

Don't go combing through her new album, No Human Tongue Can Tell, for answers. For one thing, none of the nine tracks were written by her, but are interpretations of existing folk songs that Peat has been collecting over the years. Like costumes, she has tried on several of them in different contexts, including with Lankum. Here, she doesn't merely do the songs justice with her formidable contralto voice, which expresses anger and longing to often staggering effect. She remakes them outright so that it feels – though they've been passed down through generations – as if they're being performed for the first time.

"I always knew I wanted to do it, but I never prioritised it," she says of making a solo record. Her main focus was on Lankum, whose soaring popularity as purveyors of intense, drone-heavy folk had taken its members by surprise. "We never imagined this amount of people would want to listen to the really weird music we make," Peat tells me. She finally got down to recording the LP in 2021, between Lankum's third and fourth albums, but became pregnant not long afterwards. "My plan was to finish the whole thing before I had the baby," she smiles. "But, obviously, that didn't happen – it took a few more years."

The delay had as much to do with her ambitious creative process as starting a family. “I got the idea for how I wanted to do it partly from watching a documentary on how Mike Oldfield had made Tubular Bells, which I thought was fascinating because he has all these recordings of himself layered on top of each other. And that takes time.”

Radie Peat

photographed

for The Observer

New Review

in Dublin.

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Continued from page 12

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Continued from page 12

It helps that Peat's repertoire extends far beyond the concertina. When I ask her to list all the instruments she plays on the album, she balks a little, not being one to flaunt her talents. "Well, there's guitar in there. There's Mellotron, harmonium and baritone concertina. There's a thing called a bayan, which is an old Russian accordion. There's Moog and other synths. Oh God, and there's harp..." (She neglects to mention the Casiotone keyboard, Wurlitzer electronic piano and Hammond organ.)

John “Spud” Murphy, a key Lankum collaborator who served as producer here, tells me the album is “90-something per cent Radie”. The remainder is made up by guest appearances from other members of ∅XN and Lankum; and, of course, by the original songwriters of bygone Ireland, Britain and Appalachia, whose work Peat chops and changes in often perverse ways. In the case of Willow Garden, a ballad about a young woman’s murder by her male lover, who narrates the tale, she wanted the experience of listening to it “to feel like you’re taking Valium”. The result is the most oddly soothing murder ballad I’ve ever heard.

More often, Peat was drawn to songs told from a female perspective. “I just found those very interesting,” she says, “especially where the woman in the song is not just an object of desire, but has actual agency. Some of the songs are really old, so you’re talking about a time where women would have had way less rights than I do currently. [But] what I found is that these songs are surprisingly progressive.”

Why, I wonder, did she decide to work entirely with songs from the past rather than writing any of her own?

Well, first of all, she says, “when you write the arrangements, you’re bringing it into a different world, anyway”. But de-emphasising the self is part of the point of folk music, she goes on. “For me, it’s an egoless medium, because the songs have travelled through generations and they’ve been changed by so many people over the years. There’s something about that that I find very comforting, because it’s this universal human experience. It’s not limited to just your experience and view of the world – you have this collectiveness there too.”

But, she adds with a smile, lest she erase herself from the picture completely: "I do change them a lot as well."

P

eat, who is in her 30s (she declines to be more specific), has been playing music for as long as she can remember. She grew up in Artane, a working-class Dublin suburb that also produced Brendan Gleeson and Larry Mullen Jr of U2, though Peat is more

excited by the fact that Enya lived and recorded there in the 1980s (she tells me she intended her album to sound like “dark Enya”). Peat’s family was musical and she has memories of performing in pubs and on little stages around the city. “I remember thinking about it when I was 12 or 13 and asking myself: ‘Is this what you want to do? Do you actually like doing this?’ And I was pretty much immediately like: “Yeah, I do.””

When I was growing up in Ireland in the 1980s and 90s, I remember hating trad. In contrast to the music I loved from Britain and the US, it sounded parochial and overburdened by the past. My attitude towards it is much more positive these days but I'm curious how Peat felt about it as a child. Did she never want to rebel?

“Well, I might have given you the wrong impression of my musical roots,” she replies, “because [playing traditional music] was what I did with my family, but it’s not what I listened to.” She was more interested in Nina Simone. “Then I got into Motown and then Radiohead and then heavier music. I listened to a lot of different types of music – and I still do.”

Peat performing with Lankum in Dublin in 2023. Below, the band at the Mercury prize ceremony the same year, when they received a nomination for their album False Lankum. Getty Images

As for the recoil against trad: “The way people view trad music has really changed. It was very much not popular outside the circles that played it. There was a real distinction: you either played it and were part of it and realised how great it was, or you were outside it and had, I’d even say, disdain for it. I think that was a postcolonial mindset that crept in there.”

Meaning that Irish people not taking their culture seriously was a legacy of colonial oppression?

"Yeah, exactly – that it was backward or embarrassing or whatever, and it never was."

Even though music was extremely important to Peat, she never thought she'd pursue it as a career until Lankum came along. The band connected through Cormac MacDiarmada, an old schoolmate of Peat's who ran a local session. There she met brothers Ian and Daragh Lynch, punk rockers who had become fascinated by folk music in their early 20s. The four quickly discovered shared musical interests that went far beyond folk.

“I just remember us being really excited,” says Peat of Lankum’s early days. (The band was known as Lynched until 2016, when a judicious name change was made; “Lankum” comes from the ballad False Lankum, as sung by Irish Traveller John Reilly Jr.) “It was like, wow, we have the same thing in mind. We all realised that we were trying to make something we hadn’t heard yet.”

They released their first album as a four-piece in 2014. The music was so dark and

much of an audience for it: “So it was bizarre to see how many people actually connected

with it," says Peat. Three more albums followed, to mounting acclaim, with 2023's False Lankum

receiving a Mercury

prize nomination.

I saw them playing

Dublin's Vicar Street

that year and remember

being struck by the

outpouring of love

and respect from the

hometown crowd.

Peat sees Lankum's rise, and the concurrent resurgence of Irish folk music, as part of a broader cultural revival "where people

are learning Irish again, they're getting interested in our folklore, clothes designers are referencing traditional Irish textiles. Although," she adds as a caveat, "revival' implies that that happened before, whereas I'm not sure Irish people have ever been this comfortable with their culture. We're looking at it and not recoiling, and being like, actually, there's some good stuff here."

There's a shadowy flipside, however. "Talking about cultural revival, it makes me uncomfortable that, at the same time as this very valid and necessary revival of interest in our own culture, there's also the rise of rightwing ideology that is just really racist and xenophobic and – I'm ashamed of it, to be honest. I'm ashamed that the tricolour has become a symbol for hate, I'm ashamed that people are feeling threatened and unwelcome in Ireland. I think we've really gone astray there, especially for a country [from which] so many millions of us have emigrated. It makes me very sad."

She acknowledges that class divides are playing into hostilities, exacerbated by countrywide housing and healthcare crises. "People are feeling marginalised, and especially in working-class areas, they are being pushed to the side. I just think

they're directing their anger in the wrong direction. They should be annoyed with the government for mismanaging. But, unfortunately, a lot of people seem to think that it's the people who live next door who look a bit different ..." She breaks off, looking uncomfortable. "I hope that all makes sense. I'm not a politician."

Perhaps that discomfort is one reason she prefers to channel other people's words in her music rather than writing her own. The most impassioned song on the album, Dark Horse of the Wind, was written by Irish folk singer Liam Weldon in 1966. Half a century on from the 1916 Easter Rising, it reflected on the failures and corruptions of the Irish state in no uncertain terms: “Now charlatans wear dead men’s shoes, aye and rattle dead mens’ bones / Ere the dust has settled on their tombs, they’ve sold the very stones.” Sung by Peat another 60 years later, the words have lost none of their bite.

That makes the album sound forbidding, but there's a gentleness to it as well, and a spaciousness that contrasts with the intensity of Lankum's sound. And there's an alchemy in how she is able to transform disturbing subject matter, such as the abusive relationship on lead single Still I Love Him, into achingly beautiful music.

Then there's the murder ballad that emulates the feel of Valium. It's not the first blood-soaked number Peat has played in her career. What draws her to such dark material?

"The drama!" she intones, laughing. "Obviously, they're about extreme states of human emotion and behaviour, but I find them interesting as well. Why do people write ballads about murder? I suppose, like, why do we make films about murder? It's so morbid."

She watches a lot of crime dramas, she says. “I’m not sure why, but I do. I find them interesting. And in a way, songs are almost like newspaper headlines – the ones that survive are the ones that fascinate the most.”

That sounds like a good encapsulation of her new album. Next, she plans to make new music with both Lankum and ∅XN. She's already started the process with the former, and if their recent single, an incantatory, electronic-curious cover of the Specials' Ghost Town, is any indication, it could spell a very new direction for the band.

In the meantime, Peat is occupied with family life (she has a daughter with Daniel Lambert, who manages another wildly successful Irish act, Kneecap). And she's happily playing her weekly trad sessions to an intimate audience at a location that shall remain undisclosed. But it may be hard for Peat to fly under the radar for much longer.

No Human Tongue Can Tell by Radie Peat will be released via Rough Trade Records on 13 November. She plays Union Chapel, London N1, on 3 November and Vicar Street, Dublin, on 20 November

THE GRATEFUL DEAD AND THE BIRTH

A new radio documentary explores how the tech-literate fans of the ultimate hippy band helped to pioneer today's digitally connected world. Seán O'Hagan explains why he made it

OF SILICON VALLEY

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OF SILICON VALLEY

When I began writing about music in the mid-1980s, in the wake of punk and

post-punk, the Grateful Dead were viewed as a throwback to the hippy era of peace, love, tie-dye clothing and interminable jamming. If they were mentioned at all by writers or musicians, it was more often with a dismissiveness that bordered on derision.

Nirvana's Kurt Cobain, who viewed the Grateful Dead with a particular disdain for selling out their hippy ideals by becoming one of the highest-grossing touring acts in the US. Referring to the band's singer-songwriter, Cobain once said the only tie-dye T-shirt he'd wear would be stained with “the blood of Jerry Garcia”.

Now, more than 40 years later, and at the risk of being branded a cultural heretic, I have made a documentary for Radio 4 that suggests the Grateful Dead may be as culturally important as the Beatles. How has it come to this?

When the programme's producer, Rich Power, first approached me with that idea, I reacted – as most sane people would – by dismissing the proposition outright. As we make clear in the radio documentary, the Beatles created a series of superbly crafted songs that reverberate to this day; the Grateful Dead often stretched a single song into a 30-minute improvisation. In the eight years they were together, the Beatles had numerous global hit albums and singles; over a 30-year lifespan, the Grateful Dead had just one US top 10 album and one hit single. The Beatles are the most lauded and influential pop group ever; the Grateful Dead are still relatively unknown and unsung outside the US.

Power nodded along with all my protestations, before calmly and methodically setting out his thesis. Put simply, it went like this: the Beatles defined 20th-century pop culture, but the Grateful Dead – and their huge network of devoted followers, the Deadheads - anticipated the digitally connected 21st century we now live in.

"The Beatles cracked open a vision of youth culture, and of mass culture, in a way that was really powerful," says Fred Turner, author of From Counterculture to Cyberculture, who is a key contributor to the documentary. "The Dead are important in a different way insofar as they were at the centre of a kind of big technological social change in the 60s that we don't think of as such because it is related to hippies and longhairs. They brought that forward, they

convened communities around it, they even helped give us a language for understanding what's happening now."

To make sense of the group's singular journey, as well as their cultural importance, we have to go back to the night of 4 December 1965, when a bar band informally known as the Warlocks played their first show as the Grateful Dead.

The event in question was one of the earliest “acid tests” organised by the author Ken Kesey and his inner circle of psychedelic pioneers, the Merry Pranksters. Their aim was to turn the US on to the consciousness-expanding potential of LSD, which was still legal at that time. To this end, from November 1965 until October 1966, they travelled from their communal base in La Honda, California, to various locations across the state in a converted school bus painted in psychedelic colours. A destination sign on the front read: “Further”.

The Pranksters made handmade posters for each event, posing a cryptic question that was also a dare: “Can you pass the acid test?” Participants were offered Kool-Aid – a soft drink made from fruit-flavoured powder – laced with LSD-25, the purest form of the drug. They entered a space that was part spontaneous happening, part absurdist theatre, surrendering themselves to a long night of hallucinogenic uncertainty. An experimental dance troupe might give way to impromptu readings by beat poets such as Allen Ginsberg; a trippy light show seemed to pulsate in time to loud semi-improvised live music by the Grateful Dead, who, through Garcia’s friendship with Kesey, quickly became the house band for the acid tests.

As psychedelic pioneers, the Grateful Dead were an oddly uncharismatic bunch compared with contemporaries such

as the Doors or the Jimi Hendrix Experience, but they somehow managed to play extended sets while high on LSD. During this time, they also crossed paths with some of the most creative thinkers who would shape the burgeoning California counterculture. Perhaps the most intriguing was Stewart Brand, a young Harvard-educated polymath who, according to the author Tom Wolfe, belonged to “the restrained, reflective wing of the Merry Pranksters”.

Brand was influenced by previous generations of radical thinkers, including Norbert Weiner. In the late 1940s, Weiner coined the term “cybernetics” to describe his theory

Continued from page 17

that systems, whether human or machine-driven, used loops of information to communicate. That formative idea, Turner explains, shaped elements of the 1960s counter-culture as well as the digitally interconnected lives we now live online.

“Cybernetics is a vision of control through communication,” Turner says. “It assumes that everything in the world is a signalling thing – my body, my movements, the house, everything. [And] because all these things are info systems, they can be mastered through IT. So now the people who run computers could become masters of the world.”

In his book, Turner writes, “Brand assembled a network of people and publications that together brokered a series of encounters between bohemian San Francisco and the emerging technology hub of Silicon Valley to the south.”

One person who straddled both cultures was the young Steve Jobs, a Grateful Dead fan who went on to co-found Apple and become perhaps the most influential pioneer of the Silicon Valley-based tech revolution. In 2016, Brand told an interviewer, “Psychedelic drugs were new, so they were unique to us ... they were definitely formative in the case of Steve Jobs. The couple of times that he and I talked, we would reminisce about acid trips ... He was a master of the universe, but he was also a hippie and still went barefoot when he could.”

Both Kesey and Brand first experienced LSD under controlled laboratory conditions. Kesey was given the drug in 1959, having volunteered for a CIA-sponsored research programme on the effects of psychedelics. Despite the clinical context, his experience was almost beatific. “We were alive and life was us,” he later recalled. “We joined hands and danced barefoot among the rubble. We had been cleansed, liberated!”

In 1962, Brand was administered the drug by an organisation called the International Foundation for Advanced Study, which was created to explore the psychological effects of hallucinogens. According to Turner, he was given a mural and a yin-yang mandala to look at while classical music played in the background. “They asked Brand how he felt,” writes Turner. “‘Very thing,’ he replied.”

Their differing reactions reflected their contrasting temperaments – the one extrovert, the other thoughtful – but, in 1963, Brand contacted Kesey, having been impressed by his anti-authoritarian novel One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest. Soon after, along with other like-minded souls, including Garcia, he became a regular visitor to Kesey's house, which was situated close to the campus of Stanford University in Palo Alto – now regarded as the birthplace of Silicon Valley.

In January 1966, Brand was the main organiser of a threeday event that took place in the Longshoremen's Hall in San Francisco, and is now seen as a pivotal moment in the emergence of the California counterculture. Pointedly titled the Trips Festival and billed as a “celebration of everything”, it was essentially an acid test on a grand scale.

Clockwise from top left: Steve Jobs was a Grateful Dead fan; a Deadhead in a Haight-Ashbury apartment; the band in 1979. Getty Images, Corbis/VCG/ Getty Images

About 10,000 people attended the event, which featured live music by the Grateful Dead, Jefferson Airplane and Janis Joplin, readings by Kesey and, on the Saturday night, a huge communal punch bowl spiked with LSD.

The utopian moment did not last long. In October 1966, LSD was made illegal in California. The following year, the

underground went overground during the supposed “summer of love”, but the counterculture was already beginning to fracture, as drifters, dealers and runaway teenagers converged on Haight-Ashbury in their thousands.

When Joan Didion arrived there on assignment for the Saturday Evening Post in 1967, amphetamine and heroin use was on the rise. She saw the city as a microcosm of a rapidly fracturing US. “San Francisco,” she wrote, “was where the social hemorrhaging was showing up.”

By the spring of 1968, even the Grateful Dead had had enough. They marked their departure from their communal house on Haight Street to a new base in nearby Marin county by playing a free farewell concert on the back of a flatbed lorry. They were not the only hippies leaving the city in an attempt to preserve the original ideals of the counterculture.

One of the many subcultures that had emerged during this heady time was the back-to-the-land movement, whose advocates sought to preserve the collective idealism of the counterculture by constructing self-sustaining

communes in the woods and mountains of California. The person most in tune with their worldview was Brand, who, in 1968, published the first edition of the Whole Earth Catalog, an information and resource manual for communal living, self-sufficiency, ecology and holistic living.

To this end, the Whole Earth Catalog prioritised the sharing of practical information; where to source materials, and what tools were needed to build an eco-dwelling, sink a well or grow your own food. Brand wanted, he said, to create a single information source that enabled “anyone on Earth to pick up a telephone and find out the complete information on

building a prototype web browser, Barlow, as if foreseeing the future, co-founded one of the first digital rights groups, the Electric Frontier Foundation. A decade later, he wrote a pioneering online manifesto entitled A Declaration of the Independence of Cyberspace, which earned him the title, “the Thomas Jefferson of cyberspace”.

Barlow's journey into internet activism had begun in 1985, when he joined an early virtual community called the Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link. The Well, as it was known, was co-founded by Brand, and, true to his roots, it had a strong countercultural element. One of its most lively forums was dedicated to the Grateful Dead. It attracted Deadheads from across

They taught me that you have to be generous with your content, delight your community

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They taught me that you have to be generous with your content, delight your community

anything". The Whole Earth Catalog is now recognised as an analogue prototype of the internet.

Brand was not the only early internet utopian to cross paths with the Grateful Dead. John Perry Barlow, a Harvard-educated poet and essayist, was an old schoolfriend of the band's rhythm guitarist, Bob Weir. By the time Barlow reconnected with Weir at a Grateful Dead concert in New York in 1971, he was already attuned to their wavelength, having taken LSD hundreds of times. Barlow and Weir went on to write several songs, including Estimated Prophet and Mexicali Blues, which became staples of the group's live shows.

By the mid-80s, Barlow had moved on, becoming one of the first internet activists. In 1990, when Tim Berners-Lee was

the US, who exchanged news, gossip, setlists and information about forthcoming shows.

By then, the Grateful Dead had, against all the odds, become one of the biggest – and highest-earning

– touring bands on the American music circuit, selling out arenas and stadiums across the country. They had started gigging relentlessly in the early 70s out of economic necessity, because their albums did not sell enough. Over the intervening years, they steadily accrued a huge fanbase, many of whom – the Deadheads – followed them from city to city.

“Between 1980 and 87, the Dead did not put out a studio album, and yet they grew and grew in popularity,” says their official biographer, Dennis McNally. In short, the group had single-handedly – and unintentionally – upended the traditional music

business model that had held sway since the 1960s, whereby an artist released an album and then went on tour to promote it. In doing so, they anticipated, again accidentally, today's post-streaming music culture in which touring is the main economic engine. As McNally wryly puts it: "The industry has finally come round to the Dead's approach."

Central to all this was the band's symbiotic relationship with the Deadheads. From the start, as an extension of their communal hippy principles, the band had allowed fans to make bootleg recordings of their performances. Given that the group's sets differed every night and they never played a song the same way twice, the vast trove of unofficial recordings, often captured on high-end equipment, now amounts to a unique career-spanning archive, a shadow history of the band that maps their journey much more accurately than the official albums.

With the band's approval, the tapes were traded among fans, who then made copies to disseminate to their fellow Deadheads. This sharing and exchange network was a precursor of the socially networked fandom that now proliferates in online music forums. As early as 1982, Deadheads were gathering on early online discussion groups such as net.gdead, which evolved into rec. music.gdead. You could argue that there is a lineage of influence from the Deadheads to today's Swifties.

By the late 80s and into the 90s, a third wave of Deadheads had become an unlikely cultural phenomenon. They

assembled in their droves in car parks around arenas where the band played to sell their wares: tie-dyed T-shirts, posters and hippy jewellery, as well as LSD and marijuana. By then, many of the fans were well-off young people who could afford to spend a summer following the group, and for whom they represented a lingering ideal of the fables community, belonging and authenticity.

In 1987, the group had their first US top 10 hit with the single Touch of Grey. That same year, Ben & Jerry's launched a new ice cream flavour, Cherry Garcia. The Grateful Dead had somehow entered the mainstream by a mixture of stealth and luck.

One measure of how far they had travelled was a book published in 2010 (and updated last year) called Marketing Lessons from the Grateful Dead. It was co-written by Brian Halligan, a Deadhead who in 2006 co-founded, and was formerly chief executive of, HubSpot, a successful software company that makes tools for online marketing and sales. Its value is estimated at about \$10bn.

"It was partly influenced by the ethos of the band and the strategy of the band," he says in an interview for the Radio 4 documentary. "They taught me that you have to be

generous with your content, delight your community and pull lots of people in. Another key lesson is: don't just think of your customers as customers. Try to create a community of people who can connect with each other... to learn together and to kind of grow together."

As Turner notes, the radical ideas of 60s hippy utopianism

– openness, sharing, networks, technology as liberation – had also become integral to the ethos of Silicon Valley. Somewhere along the way, though, the utopian vision of a connected global culture of creativity and the free exchange of information had curdled into something much darker.

“People often say that, once upon a time, there was a true internet, where sharing was possible and good, and then it was taken over by corporate ogres,” Turner says. “I really disagree with that. I think the curdling was already in the milk.”

From Turner's perspective, California itself is a central element of an enduring American frontier myth that has been co-opted by the tech bros of Silicon Valley.

"If you look at pictures of hippies, including the Grateful Dead, they are often wearing these pseudo-western cowboy clothes," he says. "Why are people heading to communes, ostensibly to build a different kind of technology-centred future, dressing in gingham and cowboy suits? They are replicating and building their lives on the ideologies that they were raised on. And those are ideologies of frontier expansion and colonialism."

It's an interesting theory, given that those same ideologies, now hypercharged, underpin the tech frontier culture of Silicon Valley, but also Donald Trump's apparent obsession with annexing Greenland and Elon Musk's mission to colonise Mars.

What struck me most about making the Radio 4 documentary, though, was something even more absurdist: how these intertwined stories – of LSD-fuelled hippy pranksters, utopian internet pioneers and contemporary tech oligarchs – are essentially about the law of unintended consequences.

The technological hippy visionaries of the 60s, for instance, could not have anticipated the corporate and controlling nature of our digital present or, indeed, the uncertainty of an AI-driven future in which we have declining agency.

The Whole Earth Catalog now seems like a remnant of a distant time when another world seemed possible. Likewise, the Grateful Dead, a quintessentially American rock group, also epitomise the ultimate absurdist irony: that, by adhering doggedly to the 60s hippy ideal of community, continually ignoring the advice of managers and record executives, they somehow managed to thrive – and helped to invent the atomised digital future.

Archive on 4: The Grateful Dead Are More Important Than the Beatles will air on Radio 4 on 10 October at 8pm

The networker

[John Naughton] Can you trust Meta's personal assistant to run your life?

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[John Naughton] Can you trust Meta's personal assistant to run your life?

Ever since ChatGPT appeared in November 2022, it's been clear to the tech industry that the future of AI was not people

talking endlessly to chatbots. The very good reason for this is that conversing with large language models (LLMs) was, for the companies, a loss-making nightmare because each interaction requires a lot of expensive computation. So, for the McKinseys of this world, the profitable future of AI lay in “agents” – autonomous AIs that could take action on your behalf. You give them tasks, allow them to access whatever resources they need, and let them get on with it.

Last November, Peter Steinberger, an Austrian programmer living in California, created just such an agent. He called it OpenClaw, and released it as open source (non-proprietary) software. It could carry out, via LLMs such as Claude or ChatGPT, tasks assigned to it by a user. Basically it was an AI-based virtual assistant.

OpenClaw caused quite a stir in the programming community. Nat Friedman, for example, a senior figure at Meta Superintelligence Labs, was so impressed that he ordered hundreds of Apple Mac minis and gave them to his colleagues so that they could play with the software. They, in turn, were equally captivated, which was perhaps predictable since they're all geeks for whom getting OpenClaw up and running was child's play.

The same, however, could not be said for ordinary humans, who find installing that kind of software challenging. “If you can’t understand how to run a command line,” observed one nerd, “this is far too dangerous a project for you to use safely.” So the Meta team set out to build something similar to OpenClaw that could be made safe, secure and easy to use at a scale of billions of people. They called it Muse.

Meta launched it on 8 September as “The World’s First Personal AI Agent Built for Everyone”. “Anyone can use it out of the box,” it burbled, “no technical experience required. It can handle tasks, like sending an email or booking travel, and it can take on big audacious goals... It can open a browser, fill out forms,

What I'm reading

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What I'm reading

John Naughton's recommendations

Land of plenty

Against purposeful

activity and Abrahamic

religions in a world

of abundance. A

fabulous piece of

writing by Branko

Milanovic on a famous

essay by Keynes.

Eagle eye

AI: a very human tragedy. Terry Eagleton writing (entertainingly) about AI.

Heart of darkness

Alpocalypse

Now. Historian Niall

Ferguson's take on

the dangers of Al.

and negotiate on [your] behalf." And once you had given it a task it would keep going even after you've closed the app. It would come back to you only when something had changed or when it needed approval – like before it sends an email or makes a purchase. This latter task is enabled by Onelink, a service set up by the online payments processor Stripe, which enables you to set up a digital wallet for your agent's use.

To make all of this possible, Meta points out that Muse can access a person's apps across categories such as

email, calendar, payments, health, shopping and so on. Users choose which apps it connects to and can revoke access at any time.

Initial media responses to the app have been comically ambivalent. “I tried Meta’s Muse AI agent,” ran one Wall Street Journal headline. “It’s helpful and scary at the same time... The more data you hand over, the more this talented personal assistant can do for you.” Same story from the TechRadar reviewer: “It’s incredibly useful, but handing it my digital life felt deeply uncomfortable. That much power over my life needs supervision.”

It does. At the same time, though, the Muse app is the No 1 download on the Apple App Store, which suggests we may be heading into strange territory. After all, to use Muse you have to entrust some very private personal data to a company that has a formidable track record of untrustworthiness. Recently, for example, it paid up to \$18bn to settle a lawsuit in which it was accused of addicting and harming children with dangerous products.

If Muse does, in the end, become a runaway success, what does that say about us? Is it a reflection of Tim Wu's insight that "convenience is the most underestimated and least understood force in the world today"? Or that we're heading into the "soft despotism" that Tocqueville worried about – the kind of power that provides for people's needs and manages their affairs and in the end "spare[s] them all the care of thinking and all the trouble of living"? The kind of power that tech giants now possess.

Interview

Lorna Simpson's blue period

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Lorna Simpson's blue period

The pioneering photographer was the first African American woman to have a solo show at New York's MoMa. She tells Kadish Morris about her early encounters with racism, her iridescent later works, and building an archive of Black history through collage and constellations

Lorna Simpson was six years old when she came across a book of documentary photography titled The Movement at a

close friend's house. “It’s a book about the civil rights era in the United States and in the South, and the terrorisation of Black people by the Ku Klux Klan,” says the 66-year-old artist. She was already familiar with the book – her parents owned a copy and she had flipped through it several times with her mother. However, on this particular occasion, she looked closely at one of the images and understood, for the first time, what she was looking at. “It was the body of a Black man who had been hung from a tree, and burnt,” says Simpson. “I remember very vividly, seeing an image I didn’t quite understand, and then seeing it again on my own, without an adult, without someone else present to narrate for me. That was very powerful.”

As harrowing as the black and white image was, Simpson valued being faced with the brutality of racism in the security of a friend's living room, and at her own pace. "That's a very precious way, rather than being confronted by someone on the street, which did happen eventually later," Simpson tells me over Zoom from New York. "At some point in one's travels in public or in school, you will get up against racism. You will see the vitriol."

Simpson's work is confronting in its own way. Her conceptual photography – collages of found images and paintings – explores race, gender and representation in deeply inquisitive ways. Her use of defunct news photography, fragmented figures and composed colour palettes has been described as pioneering, evoking feelings of both threat and empowerment, and blurring the line between reality and fabrication. Simpson's career is a rarity for a Black artist in that she reached great heights early on, with solo exhibitions at major institutions such as New York's Museum of Modern Art and Whitney Museum of American Art within the first decade of her career. In 1990 she was one of the first African American women to exhibit at the Venice Biennale.

For her forthcoming exhibition, Previous & Ongoing at Hauser and Wirth London, Simpson returns to the UK after eight years with an expansive survey that showcases the symbiotic relationship between the different media in her practice. As ever, there's a meaningful return to the past, with many works rooted in unsettling documentary photography and symbols of disaster, from smoke plumes to gunshot wounds. Animals appear in her new collages, marking a departure from her usual compositions of the faces of Black men and women. "There's a painting of a woman down at the beach, with a mascot head of a tiger in a bikini. As in many of the

Portrait by Donavon Smallwood

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Portrait by Donavon Smallwood

Above, Lorna Simpson photographed in her New York studio and below, 2026's Vista.

collages, I substitute the skin with this constellation of the sky."

Simpson is also known for her striking large-scale photograph-and-text works that explore the relationship between historical memory, public images, personal

For Simpson, these collages became a means to building an archive of Black media, imagery and cultural history. She used cutouts of advertisements and identity and collective trauma. The same motifs reappear, with hair being one of the most dominant. Still, there's a dynamic quality in the way she takes something as simple as a wig and turns it into an unwavering comment on the politics of European beauty standards. In the work Wigs II (1994–2006), more than 50 image panels show hairpieces hanging on a wall, some with captions such as “the wig produced the desired effect”. Simpson’s long interest in Black womanhood and the media also shows up in a series of collages in which she repurposed images found in copies of Ebony and Jet that once belonged to her grandmother.

adorned faces and hair with elaborate acrylic brush strokes, rendering them surrealist formations. She was interested in the aesthetics of these magazines, but also in what they represented socially for the African American readership. “It’s not Life magazine, where it’s speaking to a white audience in terms of products. It’s these intimate conversations [with Black people].”

Simpson was born in Brooklyn, New York, in 1960, to a Jamaican-Cuban social worker father and an African American mother who worked as a hospital secretary. Her parents introduced her to art young, taking her to museums and the theatre. "My parents were politically active," she says. They let her read anything she wanted – there was no distinction between adults' and children's books. "That was my introduction to comprehension and trying to orient myself as a reader to the writer's voice."

Simpson's foray into photography came early. She'd got her hands on a polaroid camera after saving up coupons on Kleenex boxes. She later studied painting and photography at the School of Visual Arts in New York, which she found wasn't without flaws. "The education I was getting in New York was very narrow and white," says Simpson. She found true inspiration by hanging out in the Lower East Side, going to clubs, interning at Harlem's Studio Museum and attending the exhibitions of Black artists. "Just Above Midtown was a non-profit space by Linda Goode Bryant that showed incredibly good artists like Terry Adkins and David Hammons. Exhibitions that had a really conceptual approach to working with objects and languages that I found fascinating."

'A departure from her usual compositions': above, Tiger with Star Spots, and right, Constellation, 2026, which sold at Christie's for \$254,000. Lorna Simpson 2026/James Wang

During these years Simpson travelled through north Africa and Europe and formulated her style and aesthetic.

Some of her earliest photographs were inspired by the white shift dresses she saw women wearing while in Italy. The dress became a motif: Waterbearer, made in 1986, features a Black woman wearing one while pouring water from a jug and from a bottle. Underneath is the caption: "She saw him disappear by the river. They asked her to tell what happened. Only to discount her memory." This became one of her most celebrated pieces.

"I just wanted to explore how rigid we are as a society about gender and sexuality and how targeted and how vulnerable Black bodies are," she says. "There's this public space that is dangerous and at the same time, the construction of self is under attack even in the privacy of one's own home. Or the language that one uses is policed."

By the mid-80s, Simpson gained widespread attention in the art world. Her first solo show at Just Above Midtown Gallery opened in 1986, followed by a show at MoMA in 1990. It was the museum's first solo exhibition by a Black woman. Still, much of her early success surprised Simpson, not due to a lack of confidence in her work, but because of how misunderstood it was during her studies. "You don't even know [British photographer] David Hamilton, so how can you have an inkling of what I'm doing?" she says. "My experience and

exposure was much different from the people around me."

That's why, in 1993, when the late feminist theorist and cultural critic bell hooks wrote about Waterbearer in Artforum, calling it “a portrait of serenity, of being, of making peace with oppositional history”, Simpson felt truly seen and heard. “You will get into amazing conversations with writers and other artists about the work which will reveal things that you haven’t even considered,” she

As a young artist, the most important thing is to understand your own mind, what your language is

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As a young artist, the most important thing is to understand your own mind, what your language is

says. “It isn’t a thing about control, that everybody has to sign up to how I see the work, but [that] the conversation needs to be insightful, and not racist and messed up.”

In conversation with her conceptual photography work is her monumental painting. Simpson decided to explore the medium in 2014 and began creating stylistically abstract, vast works, abundant with iridescent shades of blue; blues that are inspired by everything from the sea, the Arctic and the night sky to the cultivation of indigo, a crop that was tended by enslaved labourers, and to the musical blues. “I have so many friends who are amazing painters. It was a little embarrassing [to start],” she confesses. She persevered through the discomfort of finding her rhythm in a new medium and ended up creating some of her boldest works. Her explorations came at the right time too, as the close family friend and late Okwui Enwezor was curating the 56th Venice Biennale at the time. "He was the one who gave me the opportunity to show the paintings I'd been working on."

Simpson lives between homes in New York and Los Angeles and makes sure to have breaks between heavy bouts of work. “Having family and having a relationship with my daughter, I feel so lucky,” she says. “The best ideas come from leaving it alone for a while... The necessity to make things doesn’t always work for me.”

She's aware that today's emerging artists face their own pressures. "It's a much different art world than when I was 25," she says. "As a

young person the most important thing is to understand your own mind. What your language is. To be able to observe how ideas come to you and how you execute them intellectually and conceptually."

Simpson's career spans five decades, and her exhibition at Hauser and Wirth will show just how deep and sweeping her body of work is; how she has made sense of her Blackness, womanhood and Americanness, but also why she is considered to be one of the US's most groundbreaking artists. Recent successes include her work Constellation selling at Christie's for \$254,000, double its estimate, and her contribution to the newly opened Barack Obama Presidential Center in Chicago. But commendations mean little to Simpson in comparison with artistic discovery. The work is where she places all value. "I just have to come to make what I make really humbly."

Previous & Ongoing is at Hauser and Wirth London until 23 December

[Classical] The singing nun

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[Classical] The singing nun

The 12th-century mystic

Hildegard of Bingen is

celebrated in Nwando

Ebizie's multisensory

mystery opera and a

Biennale installation

Fiona Maddocks

'The hypnotic music, dance and movement took on its own life': Nwando Ebizie's Ecstasy of the Virtues. Claire Shovelton

Ecstasy of the Virtues

Stone Nest, London W1

The Ear Is the Eye of the Soul

Giardino Mistico, Venice Biennale

Tosca

New Theatre, Oxford

Bring healing herbs as an offering, we were urged. A mist of rose-scented water would be sprayed. We would all share in the ritual of extreme unction. My enthusiasm for herbs and healing is boundless. I am less good at audience participation or being sprayed on. So I was nervous about the premiere of Nwando Ebizie's Ecstasy of the Virtues, a multisensory mystery opera inspired by the life, music and visions of the 12th-century nun Hildegard of Bingen (1098-1179). I have seen several Hildegard-inspired shows, including one involving people dressed in habits and chopping raw vegetables. Would this be in that memorable category?

It took place at Stone Nest, a former Welsh chapel in London's West End (before moving to Leeds on Saturday, then on Wednesday to Barrow-in-Furness). This atmospheric, unglamorous building has established itself as an arts venue where challenge is a priority. It is easy to mock events in which you might sit on a beanbag or yoga ball, and be offered bread and a blessing at the interval. But this was an unclassifiable show with moments

of great beauty. After the initial surprise – what was going on, who was everyone? – the hypnotic music, dance and movement took on its own life.

Ebizie, who was born in Nigeria and grew up in Oldham, was the recipient of the 2025 Paul Hamlyn composer award and has been a resident artist at the Yorkshire Sculpture Park. She describes herself as a “neurodivergent Afrofabulist”, creating stories from her perspective as part of the African diaspora. Her music draws on Nigerian traditions, as well as Brazilian, African-Caribbean, Persian, and western classical. Glimpses, aural or verbal, of Hildegard were woven into Ebizie’s own music and libretto.

Canonised in 2012, Hildegard did not use the phrases “colonial crises” nor “their huge dicks”, but much of the rest of the text was familiar from her extensive mystical writings and ethereal, single lines of chant. Her morality play Ordo Virtutum (Order of the Virtues), about the struggle for a devil's possession of a soul, was the starting point. The work has had a long gestation. (I spoke to Ebizie in lockdown about this project, as she had read a book I wrote about Hildegard.) She has retained aspects of the play, while turning the devil into the horned figure of Self-Loathing (played by Chisato Minamimura, a Japanese-born deaf performance artist and British Sign Language guide), a reflection of our own inner demons.

The four Virtues, dressed in different coloured puffball gowns, like gorgeous boiled sweets (costumes by Polly Simon), had different musical identities: Grace Nyandoro is an operatic lyric soprano, and Cevanne Horrocks-

Hopayian a singer-harpist. She and versatile singers Laura Bowler and Yfat Soul Zisso are also composers. The Iranian singer-actor Sara Amini, wrapped in a chrysalis of white gauze, then submerged in a bath of water, was unsettling and convincing as the Soul/Hildegard. These, together with the small

ensemble of singer-dancers, are a new breed of multidisciplinary performer. They draw on every possible global source, acting within and outside notions of “classical music”. They make us rethink.

It is easy to mock

events in which you

might sit on a

beanbag or yoga

ball, and be offered

bread and a blessing

Hildegard also features in this year's Venice Biennale, under the heading The Ear Is the Eye of the Soul, curated by Hans Ulrich Obrist and Ben Vickers of London's Serpentine Gallery, and commissioned by the Vatican. The central element is the Giardino Mistico – mystical garden – inspired by the “life and legacy of Saint Hildegard of Bingen”. As you walk along its gravel paths, wearing headphones, a soundscape of commissioned music by composers including Brian Eno, Meredith Monk, Terry Riley, Patti Smith and Precious Okoyomon plays.

I am not absolutely certain, had you put a gun to my head, that I'd have recognised the Hildegard inspiration, but as Pope Leo XIV said last year (quoted in the programme): "The logic of algorithms tends to repeat what 'works', but art opens up what is possible. Not everything has to be immediate or predictable." Totally.

In contrast, Puccini's Tosca is immediate – noisy, violent, stirring – but not predictable, even if you know she's going to jump. The score throws up revelations on every hearing. The Oxford International Opera company, in its debut production, conducted by Marios Papadopoulos, secured a starry farewell: Bryn Terfel has been singing the role of Scarpia, the lascivious chief of police, since 2006. This was, he says, his last time. Joined by the classy duo of Carmen Giannattasio as Tosca and Saimir Pirgu as Cavaradossi, Terfel showed his cool mastery of this nastiest of parts, still in robust voice and dominating the low-key and modest staging. Does Oxford need an opera company, someone nearby asked? If this level of singers is on offer, why complain?

Home listening

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Home listening

Classical music on CD, on air and online

Women and the Piano by Susan Tomes (Hyperion) The pianist and scholar Susan Tomes grew up

never knowingly playing any music by a female composer. Decades later, she wrote a book on the subject, Women and the Piano: A History in 50 Lives, and discovered works she had never come across.

On her new album for Hyperion, she shares the fruits of her findings with works by a dozen composers. Fanny Mendelssohn and Clara Schumann remain the best known. (A new book about Schumann, Madame Composer by Sarah Fritz, is out this month.) The American Amy Beach is also familiar, a pioneer in the composition of large-scale orchestral works. The French aristocrat Hélène-Antoinette-Marie de Nervo de Montgeroult (1764-1836) and the Venezuelan Teresa Carreño (1853-1917) have had recent attention but others are still in the shadows.

The concentration on short works, played with agility, grace and variety by Tomes, leaves us hungry for more. It's timely to mention figures released last week by the Donne Foundation that showed 17 composers, all male, account for 50.2% of all music programmed. Beethoven's music alone equals 5% – more than that of all women composers combined. I'm all for Beethoven, and probably the other 16 male composers who make up those numbers, and I can guess who they'd be. But that's quite some inequality. Donne is doing its utmost to prick the consciences of musicians and concert administrators.

Cedric Thorpe Davie: Orchestral Music, Volume One (Toccata Classics) Neglect knows no

bounds. I doubt even a single work (happy to be corrected) by Cedric Thorpe Davie (1913-1983) was played last year beyond the confines of the university of St Andrews where he became professor in 1945 and built up an important music department. Above all Davie was a prolific composer of film scores, especially in the 1950s cinema heyday, and of many concert works: a key figure in the Scottish musical renaissance of the mid 20th century. The Toccata Classics label, itself a brilliant and maverick treasure trove of the slightly known, the scarcely known and the completely and utterly not known at all, has released Davie's orchestral music Volume One, admirably played by the St Andrews Chamber Orchestra, conducted by Bede Williams. It's stirring and immediate. Time to usher Davie back into the daylight. Fiona Maddocks

Liberating Liberace

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Liberating Liberace

Simon Russell Beale plays magnificently against expectation in a strange, soulful new play that seeks to peel back the layers of the pianist's persona

Susannah Clapp

I'll Be Seeing You

Pitlochry Festival Theatre; until 11 October

He arrives with one enormous preen. Descending from the back of the stage into a bleary, attic-style room, Simon Russell Beale wears a long gold cape draped over his arms like wings, his chest puffed out in a sparkling waistcoat. Later, he will snuggle into a huge ostrich feather coat and tiny glitter shorts. He is Liberace, the pianist as famous for his costumes as his chords who, at the peak of his fame between the 1950s and 1970s, was the highest-paid entertainer in the world. Sequinning his way through Tchaikovsky and boogie-woogie.

Martin Sherman's new play is part of a shining season programmed by Alan Cumming at his terrific Pitlochry Festival theatre: coming up are Happy Days and My Fair Lady. The show, co-directed by Cumming and Ben Occhipinti, is also part of a surging preoccupation with people who construct glittery persona: clever Dolly Parton putting together her clamorous glamour; Barbara Cartland building a confected self, as dissected in Matthew Sweet's biography. Like them, Liberace knew what he was doing.

Sherman, best known for his 1979 play Bent, which focused on the persecution of homosexuals in Nazi Germany, does not go at it directly. He channels his drama through the character of a young writer – performed by hyperactive, pec-flexing Fra Fee – who

has been commissioned to write a play about Liberace. Whom he does not like. The flash and grab showmanship has something to do with this, but the main reason is what he considers to be Liberace's lack of honesty. He refused to admit he was gay. In 1959 he sued the columnist Cassandra of the Daily Mirror for libel. The attack had been biliously fluent, as orchidaceous as Liberace himself, who was deemed a “deadly, winking, sniggering, snuggling, chromium-plated, scent-impregnated, luminous, quivering, giggling, fruit-flavoured, mincing, ice-covered heap of mother-love".

It is a truly interesting case, as at least half the adjectives are not pejorative in themselves but only because they imply homosexuality. It is not self-evident that the opposite of all these qualities is desirable: that the world needs more men who are stinky, sombrely clad, stolid and po-faced. Liberace won. For much of his life he was performing when homosexuality was categorised as illegal; for all of it, the subject was treated with

'Performance and make-believe is clearly what he is about': Simon Russell Beale as Liberace in I'll be Seeing You at the Pitlochry Festival Theatre; below, with Fra Fee. Tiu Makkonen

extraordinary caginess. When Michael Parkinson interviewed him in 1973, he talked of people getting “the wrong idea about you”. Liberace responded levelly, knowingly: “That could very well be.”

Rather brilliantly in Sherman's play, he defends himself for not coming out by saying he was not hiding his true self: performance and make-believe is clearly what he is about. He then calls out the author who is himself, Liberace says, not telling the truth: he is not young, not fit. At which point the play moves from skittish and strange to soulful. Fra Fee exits and the real-life playwright enters. At the age of 87, Sherman makes his stage debut: grave, measured, modestly dressed, sceptical of Liberace but also holding him in awe for the sheer giddiness of his life. In an extraordinary closing moment, the elderly dramatist rests his head on the pianist's shoulder, while his hand creeps round his spangled middle.

The action is light: scenes of surreal speculation, of mothers knitting piano keyboards, some sexual frolics, some writers' angst, which is never quite as interesting as writers think. Not much drive, but a succession of indelible images. Russell Beale – so growlingly good as a siren-suited Churchill in De Gaulle: Résistance – exquisitely mimics the moue of the lips, the twist of the brow, the fluttering fingers. Some camp mannerisms are too easily within his range: he can seem to be his own marionette, much as Liberace often looked as if he were smiling at his own smile. Yet he can play beautifully against expectation. Liberace is said not to be a very good singer, but the musical Russell Beale slips you into a shared dream when he croons the play's title song.

Tim Hatley – a designer for whom in general more is more – is co-creator of the Liberace persona, rightly piling stuff on the stage and on actors. A silver car has a scantily-clad chauffeur to match. Acolytes sport T-shirts patterned with piano keyboards: when they bend down, Russell Beale, ogling the audience as he talks about the importance of fingering, plays them like a piano – and slips his hand towards a private part or two. In defiance of the notice a few minutes away from the Highlands theatre which proclaims: "No Camping."

Art

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Bay watch

A shimmering show of French artists inspired by their time in the south offers pure optical pleasure compared with Renoir's bland lovers at the National Gallery

Laura

Cumming

Painting the French Riviera

Royal Academy, London W1; until

31 January 2027

Renoir and Love

National Gallery, London WC2; until

31 January

It is high summer at the Royal Academy and will remain so all through the bleak midwinter. Never was a blockbuster more reliably designed to lift the spirits. Painting the French Riviera has Cézanne's baked terracotta cliffs and Monet's rose gold beaches. It has Signac's coral shorelines and Matisse's blazing scarlet sands. Bonnard's hotel room glows yellow above a bay that heats up from burning blue and orange to hot pink in picture after picture: enough chromatic intensity to warm the hands and heart.

Which is, after all, why so many of these French artists went south in the first place. Renoir had arthritis, Matisse bronchitis, Henri-Edmond Cross was chronically rheumatic. Mediterranean heat was the cure. Monet came for three weeks' rest on the new Calais-Nice express in 1884 and stayed for several months, dazzled by what he called "the fairy-like air". Signac, grieving the sudden death of Seurat, sailed to the Riviera on his own yacht in 1892. Bonnard met him there in 1909, eventually bought a house and never left.

The south becomes a place in the mind, as much as a real locale. Of course there are recognisable features. The shimmering horizon between sea and sky is beautifully measured in Signac's pointillist dots. The curve of the bay is matched by the curlicues of hotel balconies. The palm tree is the undisputed emblem of the French Riviera, anchoring the scene from first to last.

But, in a way, all these visions are a practised deceit – a fiction, at least. The Mediterranean sun blanches the colour out of everything along that coast. Bougainvillea flashes crimson in deep shadow, it is true, and masts, sails and swimming costumes sometimes flare out of the blinding white air. But what you see in this exhibition is not some kind of

heightened realism; it is modern art inventing itself.

The first picture is one of Cézanne's great Bathers, a classically timeless subject. His naked figures in their blue-green Arcadia shiver and vibrate like animations on the canvas. Monet, looking closely, begins to whip up the coastline with vectoring strokes, the rhythm of his brush stirring the heat. His bay of Antibes hovers like a tangerine dream at dawn; by late afternoon, it is melting away and the foreground tree darkens half the picture. The sun-bleached town of Ventimiglia, along the coast, is a frisson of lavender, pink and blue – what Monet called “a palette of diamonds and jewels”. He thought it might shock, though by now, it is as safe as all the other RA merchandise.

Monet, like so many of these artists from the north, was dazed by the Riviera. “It is so beautiful, so bright... One swims in blue air.” What’s surprising is how rarely the elements are actually blue in this art. Dufy opens his hotel shutters right back on the burning cobalt of the bay at Cannes, it is true, but Matisse and Derain are liberating colour from reality, so that swatches of yellow and red can stand in for anything – sun, sea or sand – in the expression of pure ecstasy.

The Riviera cheers everyone up, even what the curators call “outsiders”: the German expressionist Max Beckmann, in voluntary exile from the Nazis, although his palm trees cast tense shadows. Even the agitated Chaïm Soutine, whose seaside is woozily angled but as sun-drenched as nothing else in his art. Even the suicidal Franco-Russian Nicolas de Staël, whose abstracted seascapes are articulated in horizontal bars of jaunty violet and vermilion (though what are seas and skies if not inherent abstractions?).

Most startling of all, for anyone accustomed to the severe grisaille of cubist-era Braque, are the merry pictures he painted on the Riviera. Boats bob in rainbow colours, beaches are fauve-bright and the baking ground is formed of golden dashes, as if the bare canvas below was holding the Earth's core heat.

There are some truly mediocre Bonnards in this exhibition, where the eye cannot get a purchase in the clumsy fug of foliage and colour. I wish I had never seen Picabia's

Left, Monet's Morning at Antibes, 1888, 'hovers like a tangerine dream'. Philadelphia Museum of Art: Bequest of Charlotte Dorrance Wright, 1978-1-22

Below, Yves Klein's ANT 84, 1960, is one of 'many surprises' in the show. 2026 Succession Yves Klein c/o ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London

boggle-eyed snoggers at new year in Cannes. And Picasso is granted his usual pride of place, unquestioned, filling the enormous central gallery.

But there are many surprises, not least Yves Klein right at the end. Nice-born Klein's first dada performance involved "signing" the sky at 19, as if the intense blue was his own; which would later become the case with the deep ultramarine International Klein Blue (IKB), whose manufacturing process and formula he registered as a patent in France. Two sea sponges dipped in that colour look like alien trees, alongside two painted panels of IKB to rival any Provençal skies.

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Culture Club

'Figures in their blue-green Arcadia shiver and vibrate': above, Paul Cézanne's Bathers, 1890-92. Saint Louis Art Museum,

Painting the Riviera is easy on the eye and purposefully entertaining. Three actors on the corniche – Cary Grant, Grace Kelly and Moira Shearer – appear in film clips towards the end, and anyone who objects to the fact that some of these paintings look like ads may be surprised that the very same artists, from Matisse to Picasso, actually created the tourist posters in the final room.

There is no hint of the politics that dominate many art shows today. You do not learn, for instance, that Renoir could be openly antisemitic or that Signac was an anarcho-communist, whose seaside scene In the Time of Harmony is a work of utopian propaganda. The point is pure optical pleasure. That it is all inspired by a ribbon of coastline barely a film star can now afford is beyond the point.

There are four Renoirs in this show; if you can take any more, go to the National Gallery's Renoir and Love. Plump nudes, flaccid and deboned; rosy cheeked flower sellers; sweetly smiling blonds waltzing with their lovers. Girls everywhere, biddable and benign, and without a trace of depth or personality.

The famous works are all here: sun-dappled dancing at Le Moulin de la Galette, Parisians beaming beneath the strangely rainless umbrellas. The emphasis is on love, which seems wholly unnecessary, given that Renoir paints very little else. There is a half-hearted attempt to suggest that two girls in a boat might be lesbians and a claggy image of roses left for someone – but who? – in a theatre box, but essentially everything is spelled right out.

The worst painting here shows Renoir's girlfriend as a nude odalisque, laid out for the viewer. The caption says she may even be pregnant. It is extremely hard to square this with his self-portrait as emaciated and anxious, frown lines like exclamation marks above his eyes. But it is equally hard to understand how he could have ruined the soft and pearly warmth of his pictures with copious spots of deep purple and ultramarine.

The subject justifies the art every time, or so Renoir believed. “I know it’s hard to get people to admit that a painting can be great,” he declared, “and still be happy.” But happiness is not quite the issue. The Great Bathers, as it is misleadingly known, shows a trio of nubile nudes by the water. The composition pivots on the fulcrum of a single erect nipple. Soft porn, for one thing, but in its blurs, smudges and depilated pink flesh, it is also entirely kitsch.

Architecture

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Rough magic

A £6.7m redesign of east London's scrappy fringe theatre retains the edgy, improvisatory spirit of the original

Rowan

Moore

The Yard

Hackney Wick, London E9

Peter Salter: Drawings

AA Gallery, London W4; until 5 December

There's some risk when a spontaneous, creative, zero-funded performance space becomes a better-equipped, more substantial, more permanent venue. It can lose the energy and edge that comes from improvising with almost nothing. It can be overwhelmed by the demands of turnover and logistics or be suffocated by comfort.

Such is the challenge faced by The Yard theatre in Hackney Wick, east London, which was founded by its artistic director Jay Miller in 2011 in a borrowed, leaky warehouse. Initially planned as a three-month project, it was converted by Practice Architecture with volunteer labour and a budget of £7,000 for materials. It became what one critic has called “the most significant new fringe venue in the capital of the past 20 years”.

Now it has been remade with a doubled capacity of 220, along with new backstage facilities, community space and improved accessibility, at a total project cost of £6.7m. The architect is Takero Shimazaki and his practice, who last year were shortlisted for the Stirling Prize with their refined, timber-structured Niwa house in south London. The new Yard is more rugged, with corrugated fibre cement sheeting and areas of well-worn brickwork kept from the original building. Downpipes, railings and other ordinary items are picked out in magenta. A stretch of graffitied wall has been incorporated into the structure.

It also has ambitions. Shimazaki cites the great Italian architect Andrea Palladio as an inspiration, and there are echoes of a renaissance church in its composition. At

one end is a tower, the other a pedimented front. The former (not so Palladian, this) is clad in translucent polycarbonate and becomes an illuminated beacon at night. The latter, sturdy and subtly polychromatic, is formed of K-BRIQ, a material largely made of recycled waste whose makers call it “the world’s most sustainable brick”.

A driving force behind the design is sustainability and reuse. The original fabric is as much as possible kept and materials are recycled. Air from a natural ventilation system exits via the tower, which also functions as a duct. There's a related aesthetic of adaptation and improvisation. The whole is an assemblage of contrasting parts: heavy, light, bright, muted, new, old, rough, refined. It is of its place, a once-working area undergoing regeneration with craft beers and apartment blocks, but also an elevated version of its surroundings. There's an Antony Gormley sculpture, donated by the artist, on the roof.

The foyer is a touch more plush than the exterior, with balustrades and slender metal columns painted gold. The palette has something of a high Victorian theatre, also of the vibrant abstractions of the Bauhaus artist Josef Albers, with maroon banquettes, an ultramarine bar, walls in malachite and shades of red. The auditorium is more sober: there are tubular steel structures painted deep purple and curved banks of seating in stony pale grey.

The stage is level with the pavement outside, from which it is separated by a wall and a door, both sound-proofed. This, together

Takero Shimazaki's design for the Hackney Wick theatre features a graffitied wall and a tower that becomes an illuminated beacon at night. Philip Vile

with the not-too-finished nature of the interior, contributes to a sense of immediacy. The theatre is currently staging For Colored Girls Contemplating Suicide/When the Rainbow is Enuf, the 50-year-old choreopoem by the American writer Ntozake Shange. Five performers, each dressed in a different strong colour, dance and declaim on a stage with no set at all: they become the culminating and most significant of the theatre's elements.

The budget, although much greater than before, was still tight, and in places its effects feel a little too astringent. But it helps the building succeed at one of its most important tasks. It does indeed preserve and enhance the spirit of the original.

If you want to see some magnificent architectural drawings, go to the new exhibition of Peter Salter at the Architectural Association in London. He is a designer and teacher who has exercised a profound influence on architects and students. The works on show were made to develop and explain unbuilt and built works from 1985 to 2020: a restaurant in Japan, a bridge in Venice, a development of four houses in west London.

Partly drawn with drafting pens and straight-edged instruments, they exhibit delicate precision learned in his early days as a technical drafter working for local authorities. They are also animated with washes, pencil and fluent freehand. They show several things at once: the thinking process of the design, its detail and dimensions and the imagined life of the proposed spaces.

Human figures, usually naked and often weighty, populate smudgy shadows between curving forms. His designs are earthy, sometimes literally so – he was an early proponent of the now fashionable technique of rammed earth. You won’t always know what’s going on – the projects on display are not fully explained in the show – but you’ll see drawings that bring together the bodily and the constructed like few others.

The whole is an assemblage of contrasting parts: heavy, light, bright, muted, new, old

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Just stop oil

Film of the week

Tom Cruise takes on the most challenging role of his career as a Texas fuel magnate in Alejandro González Iñárritu's self-important, enraging eco satire

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Wendy Ide

Digger

(129 mins, 15) Directed by Alejandro González Iñárritu; starring Tom Cruise, Riz Ahmed, John Goodman

What a thoroughly aggravating film this is. The latest picture from the Mexican director Alejandro González Iñárritu is a work of audacious ambition. It displays bravura technical prowess and filmcraft to match that of his multi-Oscar-winning Birdman. At the same time, it's every bit as obnoxious and self-indulgent as Iñárritu's most recent movie, the widely panned Bardo, False Chronicle of a Handful of Truths. It coaxes Tom Cruise out of his action hero comfort zone and into what is arguably the most challenging role of his career. But he falls prey to the misconception that the more overblown and grotesque a performance, the better the acting.

Digger will draw comparisons with a range of strikingly original works, from Terry Gilliam's Brazil to Charlie Kaufman's Synecdoche, New York. There are also less flattering similarities with ego-trip follies such as Francis Ford Coppola's Megalopolis and Ari Aster's Eddington. Despite moments that are genuinely exhilarating in their gutsiness and nerve, the film is dense, disorientating, enraging and exhausting. As one industry insider wearily observed to me after the royal gala premiere last week: "It's a lot of film."

Perhaps what most frustrates is the fact that Digger is not what it initially appears to be. After a bombastic onslaught of noise and overstimulation, the film unfolds into a rather more layered, intriguing and thought-provoking work. But since the film-makers have requested reviews remain spoiler-free, it's impossible to excavate the more interesting

aspects of the feature.

What can I say? Digger is a confrontational and timely film, turning its lens on the monstrous ultra-wealthy elite who would rather let the planet burn than see a dent in their profits. It also stresses that we are all, in some small way, complicit; that we are reluctant to give up the privileges of the modern age in the face of an uncertain future. It's an uncomfortable watch, even before you factor in the clattering score and the camera that finds the most unflattering angles imaginable, then slaps on a fisheye lens to further amplify the ugliness.

Representing the worst excesses of wealth and power is Digger Rockwell (Cruise, heavily disguised with a putty grey complexion and mouth twisted into a moue of permanent dissatisfaction). The cinematographer Emmanuel Lubezki shoots him from low angles so that Digger towers over us like the titan of industry he believes himself to be. He's an oil man by trade, with Texan cowboy affectations and a treasured wooden handle spade inherited from his grandfather. But Digger's domain extends far beyond the handful of prairie oil wells on which the family business was founded: he's the most powerful man in the world. Right now, he's drilling in Greenland and choosing to ignore the increasingly urgent warnings from his safety advisers, led by the browbeaten Dr Ganesh (Riz Ahmed, delivering the sole unequivocally excellent performance).

Then the unthinkable happens. An iceberg five times the size of Washington DC breaks off, with grave implications for most of coastal Europe. Digger, together with the US president (John Goodman), the shell-shocked vice-president (Michael Stuhlbarg) and various other luminaries and hangers-on, assemble in a boardroom decorated with frescos of all-American heavy industry (nothing is subtle in this brash cacophony of a film, and that goes

Tom Cruise as Digger Rockwell, right, in the 'self-indulgent' Digger. Warner Bros

It is dense and disorientating. As one industry insider wearily observed after the premiere: 'It's a lot of film'

double for the production design). Their quandary: how to put a positive spin on what is shaping up to be a mass extinction event for a whole swathe of the planet? Meanwhile, Digger is preoccupied with keeping his ailing pet cat alive and trading barbs with his much younger half-sister Emma (a criminal waste of the talents of Sandra Hüller).

The fact that all is not what it at first appears works in the film's favour on multiple levels, not least by defusing some of the apparent crassness of releasing a blockbuster about a glacier-based environmental disaster so soon after the Nepal flash flood. It even sounds a cautious note of hope, suggesting that even in the aftermath of tragedy, humanity and art will endure. Is that enough? It's tempting to assume that any film that shouts this loudly must have something of significance to say. But this is one that overstates everything, including its own importance.

And the rest... by Wendy Ide

📖 中文精读 ↗

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And the rest... by Wendy Ide

The Weight

(113 mins, 15) Directed by Padraic McKinley; starring Ethan Hawke, Russell Crowe, Julia Jones

A muscular Depression-era adventure, atmospherically smeared with plenty of grit and grime, The Weight is a rousing redemption story starring Ethan Hawke at the top of his always impressive game. He plays Murphy, a widower with a keen mind for all things mechanical and a strained smile that barely conceals the worries that are etched deep into his gaunt face. The smile is for the benefit of his button-cute daughter, Penny, but even she can see that her father is struggling to keep a roof over their heads and food on their plates.

An encounter with a band of thuggish cops sends Penny to a children's home and Murphy to the wilds of Oregon to carry out a sentence of hard labour. Here, his quiet competence catches the eye of the work team warden, Clancy (Russell Crowe, admirably meaty in a small role). Murphy is offered an opportunity to earn his freedom. He just needs three trustworthy fellow convicts, strong legs and sharp wits. Their mission: to transport a cargo of gold across the Oregon hill country to safety. A stowaway joins the party: Anna (Julia Jones) is an Indigenous woman who sees a chance to escape her miserable life and who proves to be a canny comrade.

The combination of desperate men, greed and the most nerve-shredding rope bridge scene since William Friedkin's Sorcerer makes for a gripping, old-school outlaw thriller. First-time feature director Padraic McKinley beefs up the drama with panoramic widescreen cinematography, the better to capture the violent beauty of the unforgiving landscape and the savagery that lurks within it.

Derek vs Derek

(88 mins, 15) Directed by James Damer

Dawson; featuring Derek Banbury,

Derek Gow

Both are farmers, with adjoining plots of land in Devon. Both are named Derek. But that's pretty much the extent of what Derek Banbury and Derek Gow have in common. This droll, thought-provoking documentary explores the debate over farming practices and our stewardship of the British countryside through the prism of two cantankerous neighbours who find themselves on opposite sides of the argument. Banbury, a dairy farmer, adores his cows and employs every available technique to maximise the productivity of his land. His neighbour Gow has rejected traditional farming in

'A rousing redemption story': Ethan Hawke plays widower Murphy in The Weight.

favour of an ambitious rewilding and conservation project.

It's a controversial move, not least because some of the species that he has supported with breeding programmes – wild boar and beavers, for example – have made themselves a little too comfortable in the neighbouring farms. Shotguns are brandished; hedgerow management becomes a thorny issue. But James Damer Dawson's enjoyable film encourages accord rather than division: both men, it becomes clear, care passionately about the future of the land.

Knife: The Attempted Murder of Salman Rushdie

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Knife: The Attempted Murder of Salman Rushdie

(107 mins, 15) Directed by Alex Gibney; featuring Salman Rushdie, Rachel Eliza Griffiths

The knife, wielded by an assailant in a frenzied attack in 2022 on the writer Salman Rushdie in Chautauqua, New York state, is the starting point. But the sharpest element of this wide-ranging documentary about the author's life and his physical and mental recovery is the formidable mind of Rushdie himself. Using private and painfully intimate footage captured by Rushdie's wife, Rachel Eliza Griffiths, in the aftermath of the shocking incident – plus extensive archive material – the feature is a vehicle, more than anything, for Rushdie's agile intellect.

He narrates, with candour but remarkably little rancour, the journey to recovery after his near brush with death. The unshowy, workmanlike direction from Alex Gibney quite rightly allows his subject's voice to take centre stage.

Artist of the week

The life and soul

📖 中文精读 ↗

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The life and soul

Noughties powerhouse Jill Scott packs R&B, hip-hop, blues and spoken word into a career-spanning show – and doesn't scrimp on charisma either

Kitty Empire

Jill Scott

O2 Academy, Birmingham

Cardboard boxes labelled “toxic love”, “drama”, “bitches” and “liars” are all packed up and ready to go outside Jill Scott’s stage-set house. Since 2000, when her twice-platinum debut album – Who Is Jill Scott? Words and Sounds Vol 1 – thrust her into renown, the Philadelphia neo-soul singer has been sharing resonant life lessons while gathering Grammys along the way. British audiences not currently riding the soul train may know Scott from her portrayal of Precious Ramotswe from The No 1 Ladies Detective Agency, the TV series based on Alexander McCall Smith’s novels.

An abandoned career in teaching underscores Scott's exuberant drive to share knowledge. "Miss Jill" can really hold a room. At tonight's sold-out gig, she exudes megawatts of charisma over two hours while sharing intimacies and playing confidante to the crowd. Themes include holding on to one's values, optimising emotional wellbeing and doing what feels good – not least, the thrill of mutual sensuality.

“I did not ask you to bring children to this show!” Scott chuckles, after peaks of ecstatic singing and frank insights, before introducing bassist and co-band leader Dwayne “DW” Wright as “the pussy whisperer”.

"I want you to turn off your ears and listen with your vagina," Scott instructs the audience, as DW unleashes the kind of innard- strafing frequencies that local dignitaries Black Sabbath would admire. Bodily connection – human connection – matters to Scott. She has brought a full band on this European tour, including an R&B vocal group, Freeman, who also act as hype men, as well as a trumpeter and jazz flautist. It's all part of her commitment to "human beings,"

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Albums

Scott says, playing Be Great from her most recent album, this year's To Whom This May Concern. There are 28 people involved in putting on this tour, she informs us proudly. "That's 28 flights, 28 hotel rooms." Scott and crew are a lush, generous superorganism placing faith in people, not their tech substitutes.

Another recent song, Offadaback, pays tribute to a panoply of Black figures who walked so Scott could run up and down her multi-octave range, sashaying about in a voluminous blue gown. (A backdrop depicts Tina Turner and Malcolm X.) A chest of drawers near boxes of unwanted baggage stores a plethora of hats, hair wraps and wigs; she changes headgear every few songs. For the old timey New Orleans blues of Pay U on Tuesday, her takedown of feckless men, Scott accessorises with a blue feather fan. On BPOTY (AKA “biggest pimp of the year”) – another track from her most recent album – Scott also calls out money-grabbing preachers.

Neo-soul has perhaps become a redundant genre assignation for Scott, who was among a cadre of 00s soul artists informed by hip-hop, spoken word and R&B. Tonight's musical menu features jazz, new jack swing-infused R&B from Freeman, and Scott's operatic passages, including some stunning, lower-register forays into classical Spanish forms on an extended version of her much-loved early hit He Loves Me (Lyzel in E Flat). To Whom This May Concern, released in February, marked her return to music after a decade; Scott's longtime friend and fellow neo-soul traveller, Erykah Badu, also staged a comeback this year with Before the World Blows. Add to these the recent releases from Jalen Ngonda and Genesis Owusu, and 2026 has been a standout year for soul-adjacent LPs.

As she moves through her career-spanning set list, Scott tells of how she has been “weeding” people out of her life. Someone who had to go was a great sexual partner – “Mr Dingaling” – who wasn’t interested in a “duet”. Cross My Mind, from 2004’s Beautifully Human album, details Scott remembering past intimacies – part sexual healing, part primer on true love – that segues into the new album’s Don’t Play. “Please me hard, so hard, like a K-Dot lyric,” she sings, nodding to Kendrick Lamar.

The upshot is that Scott has met someone new. (“We took our time, and investigated,” she smirks.) In a long final section, more recent tracks hold their own against Scott’s best-loved hits, which include The Way and Golden, the latter about living freely, joyously. And although the last word uttered is “freedom!”, it is an insight from a few songs prior that sticks just as long in the mind. “Character, over every fucking thing,” Scott declaims. Her own sentimental education seminar comes with bags of that same quality.

Ruin: It's Not Just Music Kaitlyn Aurelia Smith (Someone Special)

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Ruin: It's Not Just Music Kaitlyn Aurelia Smith (Someone Special)

Best known for her abstract, even ambient use of modular synths, Kaitlyn Aurelia Smith has been dancefloor-curious for some time. Ruin – her fifth solo album since 2016's breakthrough Ears

– commits fully to it. In May, the prolific, sometimes new age-leaning American electronic composer played the Barbican with the London Contemporary Orchestra. Reports suggest the encore turned into a bit of a rave, albeit one restricted by the plush seating.

Ruin's nine exuberant tracks abound with digital distortions and the clatter of drum'n'bass. Introduction fades austere minor key strings into gleeful sound-making, reminiscent of the clanking and squelching of early Sophie. This effusive mood returns on That Is Like You, an overdriven digital pop track full of arpeggiating elements. It sounds like fun.

Late arrivals to bass music can often put a foot wrong, particularly if their link to London's sound system culture is tenuous. But Smith, a millennial Pacific northwesterner, acquires herself admirably. This is not mere breakbeat trend-riding. Tracks such as Obsessed are high-BPM workouts that come at partying from the avant-garde. Smith has described Ruin as her “fuck you” album – “not to you, but for you”. It’s a cathartic release that still foregrounds Smith’s compositional chops. Kitty Empire

The Age of Everything Johnny Marr (BMG)

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The Age of Everything Johnny Marr (BMG)

Having been a gun-for-hire for more than two decades after the Smiths broke up, it wasn't until 2013 that Johnny Marr finally settled into a solo career. The steady day job is

really suiting him – roadtested on last year's US tour dates, the songs on his fifth album are his most impressive set to date. Pleasingly, it's a more succinct record (10 songs in 45 minutes) than 2022's sprawling Fever Dreams Pts 1-4, although it also finds him reining in some of that album's more electro-oriented moves.

Highlights abound: It's Time bursts with energy, Marr's infectiously jangling guitar very much a nod to his earliest work and the "whoa, whoa" vocals of the chorus bizarrely redolent of Hall & Oates's Maneater (as a 1980s-themed bonus, the whoas on That Feeling recall the Police's Invisible Sun). Throughout, Marr's guitar sparkles without ever being showy, which perhaps explains how Beyond the Rain and Spin somehow make old indie-rock ideas sound fresh. Not many musicians are still at their peak in their 60s, but that's just one more way in which The Age of Everything impresses. Phil Mongredien

Nature's Pill Wishy (Winspear)

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Nature's Pill Wishy (Winspear)

A 1990s revival is in full swing and the Indianapolis-based indie band Wishy have a very specific take on the decade's music. Their blend of sugary grunge and dream pop apes the crossover hits by the likes of Velocity Girl and the Wannadies. Standout single Sensational has so many touchpoints of the era that it is almost encyclopedic: a beat from Rob Base and DJ EZ Rock's It Takes Two; a crunchy, Offspring-style guitar riff; a spoken-word verse like the "strike a pose" intro from Madonna's Vogue; and an interpolation of Ultra Naté's Free. There's also a four-bar conga solo. And that's all before the irresistible chorus, in which singers Kevin Krauter and Nina Pitchkites encourage a "confrontational cold caller" to "hang it up".

The rest of Wishy's second album is similarly, unapologetically fun. Even Krauter's angsty response to a lover's departure on All the Rage – "Fuck doing the dishes / Fuck these clothes on my floor / I don't care any more / Now that you're gone" – is a fist-pumping joy. Mona Lisa and the Pitchkites-fronted Lovesick are breezy and full of hooks, while Freak 99 is endearingly silly. Wishy might be mining the past but on this evidence, they have a bright future. Lewis Huxley

Synonym Meshell Ndegeocello (Blue Note)

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Synonym Meshell Ndegeocello (Blue Note)

The bassist and singer Meshell Ndegeocello proved a deft interpreter of dense material on her Grammy-winning, James Baldwin-inspired 2024 record No More Water. Now returning with duets album Synonym, she turns her hand to reworking popular songs by everyone from Bob Dylan to Ja Rule and the Human League. Ndegeocello's list of collaborators is impressive, featuring Chaka Khan, Lianne La Havas, jazz pianist Robert Glasper and Brandi Carlile.

Her placement of these voices is skilful, using La Havas's soft, soulful tone on the earworm melody of Dennis Edwards and Siedah Garrett's Don't Look Any Further and harnessing R&B singers Destin Conrad and Moses Sumney's harmonic agility on Roberta Flack's ballad The Closer I Get to You. Yet the most impressive aspect of the album isn't these starry features but Ndegeocello's rearrangements of familiar music.

On Always On Time, she flips the 00s hip-hop energy of the Ja Rule and Ashanti original into a warm 70s soul number, while Sonny & Cher's I Got You Babe sheds its lilting optimism and transforms into a mournful jazz ballad. In dismantling recognisable melodies, Ndegeocello finds exciting new ground. Ammar Kalia

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One to watch

Madra Salach

The Dublin six

piece eschew jigs

and reels in their

grungy exploration

of traditional folk

Like the Pogues and Lankum before them, Madra Salach get to the gnarly roots of traditional Irish folk. There are no upbeat jigs or reels to be found here; this is music with a furrowed brow and whiskey on its breath. Having formed in 2023, Madra Salach (“dirty dog” in Irish) have grown from a trio to a six piece, building their way up from sessions in the pub snugs of their native north Dublin.

The start of this year saw the release of their debut, self-produced EP, It's a Hell of an Age. The Man Who Seeks Pleasure is the standout track, with harmonium drone, plucked mandolin and tin whistle accompanying Paul Banks's anguished, broken-man vocals. Fresh from wowing audiences on the festival

"It feels like a stepping stone for us into more lively and punky arrangements," says Banks. "It's a uniquely Irish song, wrought with anger and despair." A cornerstone of the group's live set, the song takes the tempo up a notch, with Banks's urgent vocals giving way to an exhilarating instrumental coda. While we wait for their debut album, Madra Salach's take on Turkish Song of the Damned will appear on a tribute album to Shane MacGowan, 20th Century Paddy, set for release in November. Jamie Healy circuit, the band is back on the road promoting new single Ribbon Factory.

Ribbon Factory is out now on Island Records; Madra Salach tour the UK until 14 October

Rereading

How the CIA weaponised western culture

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How the CIA weaponised western culture

Who Paid the Piper? tells the incredible story of how US intelligence services funded art, films and literature in an attempt to win the ideological Cold War. William Boyd revisits a book that stands as a lasting testament to its author, the late Frances Stonor Saunders

I knew Frances Stonor Saunders largely through our mutual connection with Craig Raine's literary magazine Areté, where she was a regular contributor. Her tragic,

premature death a few weeks ago has robbed the world of a spirited, very smart and delightful human being and a remarkable writer of wonderfully diverse books. Her astonishing 1999 debut as an author – Who Paid the Piper? The CIA and the Cultural Cold War – has just been reissued by Granta. By coincidence I reread it last year as part of my research for a six-part TV series I'm writing based on Paris Interzone, James Campbell's book about American writers in Paris. I was particularly interested in the CIA's covert persecution of those Black American writers who were living in Paris in the 1950s and 60s – James Baldwin, Chester Himes, Richard Wright and others – and wanted to investigate the context of the CIA's presence in Paris during that time.

That context was a covert CIA organisation known as the Congress for Cultural Freedom (CCF), with its headquarters established in Paris between 1950-1967. The CCF's remit was to boost and spread the cultural values of the west as a clear counter to communism. The thinking was that if western “culture” in its broadest sense was made widely available then the values it enshrined – freedom of expression, experimentation, democracy, libertarianism, pluralism and so forth – would make those attracted to communist ideology think again. At the height of its powers the CCF had offices in 35 countries, was the publisher of more than 20 magazines, funded art exhibitions, symphony orchestras, movies, museums, prizes, conferences, public debates, book publications – in short, anything that promoted a Pax Americana and enshrined the freedoms that the west offered as opposed to the repression and sterility of the USSR and its satellites. Many writers, intellectuals and academics were thus recruited – some wittingly, some unwittingly.

For the CCF, the most effective use of propaganda was defined as the kind where “the subject moves in the direction you desire for reasons which he believes to be his own”. This was the CCF’s modus operandi and it was very effective. Perhaps the most famous example was the highly regarded British magazine Encounter, best described as an early Anglo version of the New York Review of Books. The poet Stephen Spender was its editor. He was utterly shocked when, in 1967, he finally discovered that the whole magazine was a subsidised part of a CIA propaganda machine and swiftly resigned.

Frances's book was the first to reveal the global extent of the CCF's role. It seems incredible to relate now but, for example, the panjandrums of the CCF thought that it would be a good idea to promote the work of the so-called New York School of artists. Consequently, Abstract Expressionist painters like Jackson Pollock and Willem de Kooning were soon beneficiaries of the CIA's largesse. Exhibitions abroad were arranged; favourable critical articles and profiles were written; trips were paid for.

Most interestingly, there was a kind of highbrow elitism operating throughout the CCF's cultural propaganda. An English translation of Boris Pasternak's Doctor Zhivago was quietly subsidised. Russian translations of TS Eliot's Four Quartets were clandestinely air-dropped into Soviet Russia. There were feature films made of George Orwell's Animal Farm and 1984 that were secretly financed by the CCF. However, the CCF was particularly

Many writers,

intellectuals and

academics were

recruited by the CCF

– some wittingly,

some unwittingly

keen on books and reputedly underwrote over a thousand publications during the CCF's lifetime. One senior operative wrote: "Books differ from other propaganda media, primarily because one single book can significantly change the reader's attitude and action to an extent unmatched by any other single medium."

There's a fascinating chapter in Who Paid the Piper? called “Ransom’s Boys” that reveals this deliberately fostered elitism and the intellectual heft of the CCF’s reach. The Ransom in question is the American academic critic and poet John Crowe Ransom, a professor of poetry and founder of the celebrated magazine the Kenyon Review, which was based at Kenyon College, Ohio. The magazine, covertly funded by the CCF, was fertile recruiting ground. The roster of names associated with Ransom and his magazine reads

like a Who's Who of American public intellectuals, featuring scholars and writers such as Allen Tate, Randall Jarrell, Peter Taylor and Robert Lowell, who became “assets” of the CCF. As with the other magazines, journals and institutions that the CCF quietly bankrolled the aim was not just to encourage free cultural expression but to create a broad front of “persuasion” that celebrated American liberalism – or propaganda, in other words.

The book has some telling pages on writers as spies. CIA writer-operatives included Peter Matthiessen, William

Buckley and James Michener. The point is made that the phenomenon of the writer as spy has a long tradition, one that includes Somerset Maugham, Compton Mackenzie,

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Clockwise from above: Stephen Spender; Encounter magazine; Frances Stonor Saunders; the 1954 film of Animal Farm, funded by the CCF. Chronicle/Alamy; Encounter magazine 1961; Granta; Prod.DB/Alamy

Edited by STEPHEN SPENDER & MELVIN J. LASKY

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"Chatterley," the Witnesses and the Law

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A Welfare World?

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The U.S. Press

PAUL BOWLES

Friend of the World

CLAUDE LEVI-STRAUSS

Edge of Our Jungle

Notes, Topics, Poems

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EZEKIEL MPHAHLELE

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Elizabeth Bowen, Graham Greene and Muriel Spark to name a few. For the CCF, high culture was important as an anti-communist line of defence and these writers and intellectuals were enlisted as foot soldiers, whether they knew it or not.

It all sounds fairly benign: what's not to like about high-end art and literature being given a secret financial helping hand? But not all writers benefited from this generously financed CIA propaganda. In particular, Black American writers, self-exiled in Paris, became the baleful focus of the old CIA and the McCarthy-era anti-communist witch hunt. Because these African-American writers publicly and vociferously denigrated the racial policies of oppression, segregation and discrimination that then existed in the United States, everything they said and did ran counter to the supposedly salubrious cultural programme that the CCF was trying to propagate.

The lawyer Roy Cohn, Donald Trump's role model and sleazy mentor, who worked closely with Senator McCarthy in the 1950s, was particularly aggressive. He had dozens of books banned from US libraries at home and abroad. Black American writers in Paris were harassed and had their passports revoked. Richard Wright, author of the classic Native Son and doyen of the Paris community of Black writers, died mysteriously from a sudden cardiac arrest in a Paris clinic in 1960, aged 52. His

widow was convinced that he was the victim of a CIA-organised assassination. Nothing could be conclusively proved but the CIA pattern was familiar: if you couldn't win the hearts and minds of individuals then they became your enemy and your legitimate prey.

Frances's research into the workings of the CCF is clearly prodigious and mightily impressive. The book also reads limpidly, seasoned with her habitual literary brio, irony and humour. However, her conclusion is bleak. As she puts it at the end of this extraordinary work of historical investigation, those intellectuals in the CCF who read Dante and had been to Yale were, all the same, part of an organisation that “recruited Nazis, manipulated the outcome of democratic elections, gave LSD to unwitting subjects, opened the mail of thousands of American citizens, overthrew governments, supported dictatorships [and] plotted assassinations”. The Committee for Cultural Freedom was still an arm of the CIA. It may have looked like a clever method of enforcing Pax Americana but it was, in the end, another way of establishing and maintaining American hegemony.

Hear William Boyd discussing the third volume of his spy trilogy, Cold Sunset, on The Observer Book Club podcast

Who Paid the Piper? The CIA and the Cultural Cold War is published by Granta (£14.99)

The Sunday Poem

After Sorolla Suzannah V Evans

📖 中文精读 ↗

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After Sorolla Suzannah V Evans

Your back—as shapely as a scallop shell, your vertebrae a line, a radial groove that gently curves when you bend down to move the towel across your legs—skin caramel. The towel is like a sail stirred by the air—revealing now your knee, now inner thigh, all rosy from the shower, and criss-crossed by marks where you ran your fingers over there. Your hair—a ruffled-up anemone—your cheeks—both tinted scarlet by the heat—your ears—sand-coloured, whorled into a pleat—your eyes—two scoops of water from the sea—Sorolla’s purest violet for a rock could not describe the colour of your—

Suzannah V Evans's debut Bloomsbury Poetry collection, Under the Blue, was shortlisted for the 2026 International Dylan Thomas prize. Her new pamphlet is How Running Is (Guillemot Press)

Politics

Gordon's Brown's good neighbours

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Gordon's Brown's good neighbours

The former prime minister argues that community spirit is the key to overcoming our divisions and defeating populism. By Rachel Sylvester

The Future Starts With Us

Gordon Brown

Simon & Schuster, £25, pp416

In the New Labour era, Gordon Brown was always seen as the dour, brooding pessimist in contrast to the sunny, optimistic Tony Blair. He was Lennon to Blair's McCartney, Picasso to his Matisse, glowering in No 11 and promising prudence with a purpose while the then prime minister swanned around No 10 declaring that a new dawn had broken. So it was a pleasant surprise and a bit of a relief to find an ultimately hopeful message woven through The Future Starts With Us.

Admittedly, the positivity takes a while to emerge. The book is, Brown writes, “a child of crisis”, born amid the “seismic shifts that have jolted the tectonic plates” of politics, economics and diplomacy. The old rules-based world order is collapsing. Disorder and violence, exacerbated by drought and floods, are wreaking devastation and governments seem unable to come together to tackle new challenges such as AI.

A “might-is-right” attitude has taken hold as Trump’s America turns its back on its old friends and allies, the former prime minister suggests. There has been a “slow, grinding ... erosion of civic life” and a dangerous rise of “aggressive and authoritarian ethno-nationalism” led by populists who exploit the weakness of local communities. A “broken economy” has been compounded by a “broken society” in which “60% of the adult population across the world are not participating in any kind of social or civic activity on a regular basis”.

In a sweeping analysis that is full of interesting facts, Brown reports that the number of fully liberal democracies worldwide has fallen to just 29, the lowest in more than three decades. The Bulletin of the Atomic Scientists, in existence since 1945, has moved its famous Doomsday Clock closer to midnight than at any point in its history, from seven minutes to midnight when it was first set in 1947 to 85 seconds in January 2026 – meaning we are closer than ever to global catastrophe.

Brown argues that the “crudest and most visual form of ... xenophobia is the proliferation of physical walls, fences and barriers dividing nation from nation”. In 1990, after the fall of the Berlin Wall, the number of border walls dropped to 15. Now, after a surge in construction, there are at least 70, according to the book. The future “cannot and will not neatly mirror the past”, Brown writes, before saying: “By 2050, India’s economy will likely be four times the size of the UK's, China's twice that of the European Union, and four-fifths of the global population will be living in Africa or Asia."

But Brown, who is the prime minister's adviser on global finance, also quotes the American economist Larry Summers's claim that “events are 75% negative for the world, trends are 75% positive” – in other words, however bad things seem in the short term, the long term prognosis is good. There is, Brown argues, an enduring decency in human beings that cannot be stamped out however difficult the circumstances people find themselves in. “Even as disillusionment spreads, billions of us continue to live lives in search of meaning. We work, we give birth to and raise our children, attend baptisms, weddings and celebrations and find satisfaction in what seem to some small joys.” He believes this innate empathy for others shows how populism can be defeated. “Millions feel the pain of others and believe in something bigger than themselves,” Brown writes. “They feel that if they were empowered to do so they could play their part in creating a better world and would want to do so.”

At times, the former Labour prime minister's pitch sounds like a leftwing version of his Conservative successor David Cameron's Big Society. That would fill Brown with horror, but perhaps shows that the divisions between the mainstream parties are less profound than the splits between them and the populists on the extremes. Aspects of the book are predictable and feel

In government,

Brown was seen as

something of a

control freak, from

the Treasury to No 10

Gordon Brown at a community centre in Stevenage in 2009.

Adrian Dennis/WPA Pool/ Getty Images

like a rehash. It is only three years since Brown's previous text on the mess we are in: Permacrisis, written with the economists Mohammed El-Erian and Michael Spence. In his search for solutions, the Labour veteran runs through many of his favourite themes including a “fairer global tax system”, citizenship classes, constitutional reform and “a compact for development”.

The fresh element is fascinating new polling of almost 100,000 people across 45 countries that backs up Brown's thesis. Only a minority of the global population – less than one in four – sees the world as a struggle between “us” and “them”, whether the “others” be immigrants or “global elites”. Those surveyed were surprisingly hopeful about their own ability to bring about change. Asked whether they believed ordinary people could make a difference in solving big challenges including climate change and inequality, 57% said yes and only 28% said no.

When voters in the UK were asked whether they agreed or disagreed with the statement “most people are basically good and want to do the right thing,” 79% agreed. Nearly as many – 73% – said they believed it was still possible to build a better future for the next generation. The polling found that the more people interact with their neighbours and are involved in their communities the less likely they are to support a populist nationalist cause. The book concludes that, alongside economic policies that address financial insecurity, helping people get to know their neighbours could reduce the vote share for parties such as Reform UK by between 15% and 20%.

Since leaving power, Brown has taken on a range of international roles, serving as the UN special envoy for global education and the World Health Organization's ambassador for global health finance. But he has also founded a network of community donation hubs called the Multibank, which distributes goods from retailers and manufacturers to those in need. The book suggests that it is this initiative that has had the most influence on his recent thinking.

In government, Brown was seen as something of a control freak, who masterminded political events from the Treasury, then No 10. Now, he argues that “the only way to save democracy is by turning passive citizens into active citizens”. It is, he admits, a conclusion he should have reached years ago, that change will not come “from politicians making decisions from on high, from communiques or conventions or from councils or conferences”. As he puts it, it will start “at home and near to home”.

Three books on Pop music Chosen by Michael Cragg

I Want My MTV by Rob Tannenbaum and Craig Marks (2011) With a cast of

includes everyone from Janet Jackson to “Weird AI” Yankovic, I Want My MTV is a riotous, no-holds-barred oral history of the music channel's peak era of influence. Covering its slightly shonky beginnings in 1981, through to the coke-fuelled hair metal era that arrived later that decade, to its early death knell in 1992 as its dominance was threatened by video games and oversaturation, the book playfully exposes the ridiculousness of pop in the starkest of light.

The Meaning of Mariah Carey by Mariah Carey with Michaela Angela Davis (2020)

Pop lore is all about

“the journey” and no one’s route to superstardom has been more complex than golden-larynxed diva Mariah Carey. Charting her rise from a violent childhood to the predatory music industry via record-breaking successes and the inevitable crashes, it’s a book that also shines a spotlight on Mariah the songwriter: a facet of her artistry too easily ignored as the hits kept coming. It’s also wildly entertaining, full of Carey’s twinkling, camp humour and, ultimately, an unwavering resilience.

Love in the Big City by Sang Young Park, translated by Anton Hur (2021) Young, the

fun-loving yet sardonic central character in South Korean author Sang Young Park's debut novel, freewheels between smoke-filled bars and the beds of various Tinder hookups, with a little studying in between. After he contracts HIV, he decides he needs to give what's inside him a "pretty name". So, as a big fan of a certain Antipodean singer, he settles on Kylie. For Young, Kylie's name – bedazzled by her joyful pop star aura – and the escapism of pop in general, acts as both playful distraction and healing balm.

Can't Get You Out of My Head: In Search of Kylie by Michael Cragg is published by Faber

Technology

The world that porn built

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The world that porn built

The adult industry showed how intimacy and emotion can be sold, shaping the internet in its image. By Marie Le Conte

Guilty Pleasure

Patricia Nilsson

Allen Lane, £25, pp288

Whenever porn is discussed, sides are usually swiftly taken. Is it destroying our sex lives? Is it mere entertainment? Is it inherently misogynistic, feminist, both, neither? Journalist Patricia Nilsson spends more than 200 pages discussing the industry in Guilty Pleasure, but never answers any of those questions. In a way, that's her whole point: porn always gets turned into a debate, when instead we should be focusing on the material, objective reality of it.

Her argument is that “today, pornography is no longer just about sex; its logic of capturing attention through stimulation, of keeping us watching rather than doing, is embedded in the online world”. Because of its virus-like spread, all leisure, sensual or not, has become an “endless loop of compulsive self-gratification: craving, stimulation and temporary relief”. In short: everything is porn and porn offers us nothing at all.

It's a theory she sets out skilfully. Do you enjoy online shopping? Then you should thank Babes4U, the proto-camgirl website popular in the mid-1990s, where performers would encourage their audience to part with their credit card numbers. In the words of its founder, Madeleine Altmann, “people will do crazy things for sex”.

More broadly, the demand from camgirls (and the men who love them) can be thanked for many of the features we now rely on, from high-quality videostreams to user-friendly interfaces.

Predictably, not all changes have been positive. You may have never heard of Fabien Thylmann, but you'll be aware of his work. He was once the man behind the pornography sites Pornhub, YouPorn, RedTube and several others, all of which belonged to an umbrella company charmingly called Manwin. He managed to buy all of those thanks to software he developed in the 1990s, which helped website operators track the ads and links users clicked on.

If you've ever bought something because it was recommended to you online, then Thylmann is a part of your life. Hell, if you've consumed any online content in the past few years, then you've been pulled in using techniques first developed

A camgirl for a company called Virtual Dreams in California in 1996, in the early days of the online sex industry. Paul Harris/Getty Images

by the adult industry.

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As she explains, the proliferation of smartphones and ad-blockers in the 2010s led to a loss in revenue for adult websites once reliant on banner ads. This forced porn barons to start putting the behavioural data they'd been quietly gathering to good use, both by selling it to third parties and by using it themselves to start tailoring their content further. By 2019, Pornhub had been found to be at the forefront of “data-driven creativity”, whereby studios decide what to produce and promote based on incredibly precise and granular information of what their users are drawn to, from specific sex acts to the colour of the furniture on sets.

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changes before others. As a result, Nilsson is at her most persuasive when discussing slightly more intangible shifts. She explains, for example, that “the logic of porn, which spread from tube sites across the internet, rewards intensity above all else. It doesn’t matter what you feel [...] this business model just needs you to feel more strongly about it”, which feels blatantly and pleasingly true.

She argues, convincingly, that everyone involved in the attention economy – “from influencers live streaming their tears over a loved one’s death to rage-baiting activists whipping up fury over politics” – is selling intimacy and emotion in a way that was pioneered by people having sex on camera. Though AI only gets a passing mention towards the end, she also makes the link between camgirls’ upbeat, complimentary tone – anything to

There is a chicken and egg question here: it is not always clear whether porn was the catalyst, or if the industry, by virtue of being especially online, merely happened to go through some inescapable

keep a paying customer online! – and the sycophancy of chatbots.

Some of her theories go even further. According to Nilsson, one of the main reasons behind the rise of hardcore pornography is that online audiences, their senses dulled by a life spent staring at screens, mercifully haven't all become sadists overnight, but instead crave any raw emotion they can get their hands on. As one influencer she interviews puts it, "the appeal for viewers seems to lie in knowing that something real is happening on the other side of the screen, that its effects will linger once the camera is turned off".

This is a quote about a sex worker receiving requests to self-harm on camera, but could easily apply to direct action from campaigners, furious speeches from demagogues,

It ought to make for a depressing read, but Nilsson's observations keep you entertained

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It ought to make for a depressing read, but Nilsson's observations keep you entertained

or, in the right circumstances, just about anyone talking about anything online. Early in the book, Thylmann complains about people refusing to invest in such a tawdry business. According to him, they failed to understand that “online, the content itself didn’t matter, as long as it kept people coming back”. This was perhaps true of porn then, but is certainly true of the whole internet today.

It ought to make for a depressing read but, happily, Nilsson's observations and prose always manage to keep you entertained: from Thylmann being described as sporting “a petite mohawk” when they meet, to a former FBI agent, recruited by Visa to investigate its relationship with the porn industry, being called “Dick Held”.

And then there's the Viennese tech entrepreneur trying to hurriedly sell off the porn site he owns as he's fallen in love with a Catholic woman, and wants to use the proceeds to launch "a site built on the same premise as RedTube but which swapped porn for what it claims to be the world's largest library of free Christian video content". There rarely is a dull moment in Guilty Pleasure.

In fact, Nilsson provides an antidote to the problem she identifies. The pornified internet, she argues, celebrates “stimulation without participation or fulfilment”, and is alienating, “escalatory and compulsive”. Instead, her book is substantial, enriching and enjoyable enough that it leaves you feeling sated – just like having sex, instead of merely watching it.

Fiction

Those who leave

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Those who leave

Trespasses author

Louise Kennedy's

playfully dark fiction

charts a young

Irishwoman's search

for acceptance and

love. By Sarah Moss

Stations

Louise Kennedy

Bloomsbury, £20, pp304

Louise Kennedy's award-winning 2022 debut, Trespasses – which was adapted into a TV mini-series last year – showed that she could sustain the beauty and precision of her short stories in a well-structured novel. It could have been a hard act to follow.

Stations has some of the same interests and qualities as Trespasses. Both books are centred on the lives of young Irishwomen in the late 20th century, are interested in women's relationships beyond the domestic sphere, and are crafted with a commitment to realist domesticity and the precise, sensory observation of material culture. But Stations allows itself to be funny and wild in a way that was naturally muted by the Troubled Belfast setting of Trespasses. Here, both the writing and the central character, Róisín, wield a playful darkness that I found deeply satisfying.

We meet Róisín as a teenager in 1982, bullied at school for her Northern Irish background and missing father. It being “prudent to be in credit” with the ringleader of her torment, Tina Doyle, Róisín passes on her messages to Red Camelin, the town’s charismatic bad boy, who is “spoken about in giddy whispers at school”. Red recognises Róisín's intelligence and matches her interest in books and music: "She liked the way he talked. Ironic, slightly formal." (This is an exemplary use of close third-person narration. We already know how Red talks because Kennedy writes excellent dialogue, and now we know Róisín's vocabulary for and taste in conversation. Such slight triangulation is exactly the point of this perspective.)

Róisín introduces Red to her single mother, her home and her history. Her father had worked for the RUC but left his home village of Crossmaglen in Northern Ireland in a hurry, bringing his wife and daughter into a community in the Republic where they would never be fully accepted, before then succumbing to PTSD and leaving them. Fiction of Irish family life is often deeply interested in silence and denial –

Stations allows itself to be funny in a way that was muted for the Troubled Belfast setting of Trespasses

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Stations allows itself to be funny in a way that was muted for the Troubled Belfast setting of Trespasses

which comes up later in the book – and Róisín's straightforwardness is refreshing. She's also sweary and sceptical, all qualities generally and iconoclastically appreciated by her mother, Una.

Red enchants Una with his prodigious charm and poorly concealed vulnerability. It's widely known though rarely said that Red's father is abusive to his wife and sons, a problem recognised by his teachers in their willingness to persuade the local Garda to treat Red's low-level criminality with mercy. Róisín, dazzled by Red's

reading and repartee, barely notices his troubles and is impressed by the drink and drugs he offers her. She falls in love. He seems ambivalent, unable if not entirely unwilling to reciprocate for reasons that will emerge only many years afterwards.

They meet again two years later, in London at Christmas, after Róisín has fled her father's new home in outrage after discovering that he and his new partner have a baby. She turns up on the doorstep of "the last squat in Pimlico" (those were the days), to find Red living in glamorous dereliction-verging-on-squalor in a large Georgian terrace shared with other young Irish people. These are the years when the English construction industry depended on Irish workers, and conservatism and poverty were driving a generation to leave Ireland. At the same time, IRA bombings fuelled long-standing English prejudice against the Irish. Kennedy handles this moment and setting lightly and with conviction: no extraneous explanation and no baffling assumptions. Especially for an international readership, that's a fine line, achieved as much by the full literary realisation of the fictional world as by dropping information into interior monologue.

As Red falls into drug dealing and then addiction, Róisín follows her own less destructive instincts: she has dropped out of university, is mostly avoiding contact with her mother, and is drifting between low-paid jobs. However, even though she doesn't recognise it as a strength, she is good at building relationships. Most of those she encounters – in the squat, at work and in pubs – like and want to protect her.

The novel's thinnest writing is the English characters Róisín encounters in London. There is Octavia, who lives with her aristocratic father in a gentrified

Fiction

A mimmoth undertaking

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A mimmoth undertaking

Naomi Alderman's inventive blend of fiction and memoir balances personal loss with the discovery of a wondrous new species. By Ellen Peirson-Hagger

The Strangers Naomi Alderman Fig Tree, £20, pp288

Naomi Alderman's latest book is a marvel of imagination and an emotional thump. Part speculative fiction, part memoir, it follows a novelist named Naomi Alderman in the months after her mother's death. To aid her father in his grief, she helps him set up cameras in his garden to capture images of wildlife.

As well as coming across glimpses of foxes, as expected, they find what turns out to be a brand-new species. The animal is a mammal with four feet, eyes on the front of its head and a snout that is “narrow and tube-like, curious and soft”.

The creature comes to be known as the mimmoth, from “mini mammoth”, and is soon spotted across the UK and, indeed, the world. No one knows where the mimmoths came from or what they want, but they are widely regarded as intelligent creatures, content to get on with eating rats and pigeons and proceeding, quite wonderfully, in dances: “They raced towards the centre of the circle they’d made. Stepped to the left. Stepped to the right in an orderly and hypnotic rhythm... If there were more than

one, then at points they intertwined their trunks and danced in a circle together, taking little hops and skips." So long as humans do not disturb them, they do not disturb us.

Despite this, rightwingers inevitably begin to rage against the mimmoths; some shoot or try to capture them. Yet following their discovery in the UK, human life expectancy goes up. Later, Alderman gets involved with an amusingly

The animal is a mammal with a snout that is ‘narrow and tube-like, curious and soft’

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The animal is a mammal with a snout that is ‘narrow and tube-like, curious and soft’

shifty environmental government official who presents evidence suggesting that everywhere a mimmoth has been killed, women have been unable to conceive.

Ever since beginning this novel, the analytical part of my brain has been trying to determine what Alderman – the bestselling author of science-fiction works including The Power and The Future – is using the mimmoth as a metaphor for. Is it grief – that debilitating feeling that arrives as a shock, but which soon feels familiar? Is it a stand-in for AI or the future technologies we most fear? Or a statement on our culpability in the climate crisis? I have since decided this sort of explicit decoding misses the point. This surprising, poignant book lurks in a world far stranger – that is, far more human

Dealing in the sacred and the profane: Louise Kennedy.

Ellius Grace/ The New York Times/ Redux/eyevine

– than such a straightforward message could ever offer.

As Alderman narrates the world's response to the mimmoths' existence with bewildered excitement, she too takes us closer into her autobiography – the Orthodox Judaism with which she grew up and has since renounced, her multiple pregnancy losses, and her often strained

relationship with her mother, particularly regarding her mother's treatment of Alderman's weight. Her disclosures balance eloquence with a damning matter-of-factness. "My shape, the rightness or wrongness of it, had been a deep wound between me and my mother all the house near the squat and buys drugs from Red but also considers him a friend. Octavia wears tweed and silk slippers, appears “sepia-tinted, like one of the last Tsar’s daughters”, and will later own a very grand interiors shop in central Bath. And there is Guy, whom Róisín meets while doing data entry in the bank where he works in mergers and acquisitions. He turns out to have studied PPE at Oxford with Octavia and introduces Róisín to his parents in Henley on “a lawn, truly velvety” with “men in Panama hats and cricket caps popping open bottles, women in Laura Ashley frocks unpacking gingham-lined hampers on to squares of Black Watch and Stewart tartan, the water glittering behind them.” These characters are beautifully observed, the details of clothing and possessions meticulously realised, but they are caricatures in a novel otherwise lovably invested in the complex, contradictory humanity of parents, teachers, addicts and dealers, homeless men, bullies and their victims, those who can’t go home and those who can’t leave.

This is something of a quest novel – Róisín spends much of the second half trying to find Red – and something of a romance, with everyone looking for love. Endings are tricky for realist novels with strong plots, because in real life there are few plots and far more loose ends than endings, but Kennedy finds a way to offer her readers resolution without a trace of disingenuity.

The title of Trespasses pointed towards the sacred and the profane, the trespass of crossing boundaries without authorisation and the trespasses for which the Lord's Prayer asks forgiveness. Readers might look for a similar double meaning here. Victoria Station is a crux, where the Dublin coaches come and go, and – in the days before Ryanair – through which most Irish emigrants pass. London is mapped by stations, metaphorical and literal stopping places, but there are also the stations of the cross in the background, places where we stop to remember suffering. In some ways a novel of faith and sorrow, Stations is a triumph of realist fiction.

days of my life," she writes at the start of one chapter. More than 80 pages later she writes, even more painfully: "The loss of my mother is a clean wound already beginning to knit, but the loss of my babies goes on bleeding."

In the most straightforward reading of the book's title, the strangers are the mimmoths. Yet Alderman quickly develops a fondness for them, and soon she knows them intimately; one regular visitor to the garden even embraces her, using its proboscis to stroke her hand. Those strangers could just as well be Alderman and her mother, or indeed all of us humans, forever unknown to one another, before death comes to a loved one and we sit around wondering where the time went.

Paperback of the week By Chris Power

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Paperback of the week By Chris Power

British readers are given

a belated introduction to the

unique mind of writer Mary

Ruefle in a funny, surprising

and beautiful prose collection

Golden Crumbs

Mary Ruefle

Fitzcarraldo, £14.99, pp264

A quick way of deciding if Mary Ruefle is for you is to read her story The Bark in full: "I took my dog to the lake, he stood at the water's edge and barked, the echo of his bark came back and he barked at it, again and again he barked at his own echo, thinking there was another dog on the other side of the lake. Welcome to poetry, I said." If you find those 53 words as irresistible as I do, you're going to get a lot from Golden Crumbs.

Since the 1980s, Ruefle has published 20 books of poetry and prose in the US, none of which have been available in British editions until now. Golden Crumbs collects three of these – The Most of It (2008), My Private Property (2016) and The Book (2023) – that contain work lying somewhere between the prose poem, the essay and the short story. Ruefle is relaxed about the bleed between these forms; when an interviewer asked where she draws the lines between them, she replied: "If I'm being frank, I just don't have enough time left on this earth to spend doing that."

Her work is funny, surprising, melancholy and beautiful. It veers between inventive slants on mundanity (an encounter with a street-cleaning truck) and altogether more high-concept ideas (a land overrun by clouds). Her nearest neighbours, I would say, are Lydia Davis, Donald Barthelme, and Italo Calvino. Like each of them, she is an experimental writer in the truest sense: she constantly tries stuff out and it might not always work. But when it does you experience the thrill of feeling new ground being broken.

Here is a book that offers great lessons in how little is needed to create drama. While noteworthy things do sometimes happen – a house flood, the death of a friend, a police interview – other pieces summon their urgency from a misremembered haiku, the sight

GOLDEN CRUMBS

MARY RUEFLE

of Christmas decorations, or the wind scattering the remnants of a torn-up letter in a bush.

Sometimes she starts with what might have been a mistake, either deliberate or manufactured. "My father was a diary farmer," one begins, a sentence my spellchecking software was desperate to correct. Ruefle runs with the conceit, the farm she describes possessing a herd of a hundred diaries, four journals and "a small cache of notebooks for our own personal use".

Some of the ideas found in Golden Crumbs are undoubtedly products of a unique mind. In certain cases, though, the germinating thought is commonplace, something that might occur to anyone. What distinguishes Ruefle in these instances is that she continues to think about such small moments, the kind that most of us allow to be washed away in the torrent of information that flows around us each minute of our lives. By saving these scraps of detritus from oblivion, and focusing the beam of her attention on them, she finds hidden doors within the everyday.

The irony inherent in her project is that what she saves from being forgotten becomes, in turn, something else to forget, one of her recurrent obsessions being with how little we retain of what we read. In My Memory of a Story By Lydia Davis I Read Years Ago and Never Forgot, Davis's 12-page story Sketches for a Life of Wassilly shrinks to just 70 words. "This was simply a personal exercise in literary memory," Ruefle writes in a note at the end of the book, "one I failed in every way. But" – she continues, drawing a conclusion that's not despairing, as mine would have been without the benefit of her perspective, and instead full of wonder – "it proved what I have always suspected – we remember nothing of what we have read and loved, only that we loved it. Love is what remains of our reading life. Try it yourself, and good luck!"

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Children's books of the month

The wyrd and the wonderful

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The wyrd and the wonderful

Autumn's chapter books for children embrace the thrill and chill of Halloween with tales of ghosts, demi-gods, doppelgangers and families in peril. By Kitty Empire

It's the eve of the spooky season. Paradoxically, Halloween feels less like an annual publishing event now that scary books are distributed throughout the year, as cosier forms of horror trickle down to the middle years age group.

But the call of the “wyrd” remains. Salem-based YA author Freddie Kölsch makes her middle-years debut with Spindlewood (Puffin, £8.99), the first in a series. Gleefully gothic, it successfully channels Lemony Snicket and Wednesday, making use of a familiar remote school setting. Non-binary and neurodiverse students bring a fresh vibe to this Hogwartsian redoubt.

Rationalist Lilac Black is shocked to discover that ghosts exist, that her family are “seers” and that she must be packed off to Spindlewood School post-haste. Lilac has been faking her “sight”, however, and must navigate the uncanny academy on her wits lest she be expelled with her mind wiped. In the midst of a school crisis that, Lilac realises, involves her ancestors, she is forced to confide her secret to her maybe-crush, Emmanuelle.

Prolific UK author Darren Simpson has a very different take on spooky: Lykewise (Pushkin, £8.99) is folk horror, set in a

Master of mythical monsters Rick 'Percy Jackson' Riordan is back once again

remote fen. There is zero snark here, as the foggy, boggy village of Harrowmere welcomes a mysterious travelling mirror salesman.

Naturally, a trio of young friends joke about the ceremony they hear about, where standing between two mirrors might reveal your true self. Imprudent Hetty goes through with it. And yes, she unleashes a Jungian shadow called a “lykewise”, who acts out her most vengeful inclinations. This tense book about the latent evildoer in us all is

Eerie pleasures (clockwise from near left): The Wild Zone, scenes from Girl With a Sabretooth Tiger, and Spindlewood.

Sonia Albert/Virginia

Allyn/ Jay Bendt

probably one for year 6 and above, thanks to some gore.

Less overtly eerie is The Raven's Gift (Starboard, £14.99) by Kiran Millwood Hargrave. The protagonists are young teens and the subject matter is often heavy, but Tom de Freston's lavish illustrations land this book in middle years.

becomes alarmed when she discovers her dad is not, in fact, visiting her grandma's care home. The hunt for the truth sends anxious Luna, her skateboarding sister Jade and pal Casey venturing into the unknown – in this case, a dump by a river – where Luna's doggedness results in an unexpected discovery.

Overcoming fear remains a theme for all seasons. Girl With a Sabretooth Tiger (Chicken House,

£7.99) is the latest from award winner Jasbinder Bilan, an immersive quest set in neolithic Europe that is pitched younger than Michelle Paver's evergreen Chronicles of Ancient Darkness series.

Eleven-year-old Swallow is enraptured by the myths of her tribe. She will have to call on all the power of her sabre-toothed

tiger pendant as she sneaks out of camp to track down a piece of healing jadeite from a faraway mountain that might save her sister's life. But is it just a legend? Bilan's prehistoric setting is vivid, as is her commitment to weaving the spirit world into her young hero's reality.

From:

Date:

Subject:

To:

5 Jun at 09:40

Re: Your Vitsoe order

email@vitsoe.com

Hi Andrea,

Harry's sister Frankie has died, and the family is in a tailspin. Harry discovers that Frankie was feeding a raven from her bedroom window and making notes in her Edgar Allan Poe compendium; gradually he grows closer to her. Harry's recovery is not linear. He makes a pass at his sister's best friend. His dreams are disorienting. But the book is all the better for its poignant verisimilitude, and Hargrave is terrific at relaying the inappropriate emotion and clumsy compensation that is familial grief.

I've been meaning to send a brief follow-up. Thank you again for sending the tools/instructions to my address here in Montreal, end April.

Fear takes many forms, not all supernatural. In SE Durrant's Into Thin Air (Nosy Crow, £7.99) a stressed-out dad disappears. Since their cafe failed, Luna's

The shelves finally went up in early May, after eagerly waiting to do so since mid-March. And I love them!

Thank you again,

I love how the shelves have felt truly different in every flat, every city, I've installed them in. Stellar Vitsoe service, as always. Very much appreciated.

(Photo attached of the shelves in place, if curious; they're dividing sleeping/living area in my studio app.)

Master of mythical monsters Rick “Percy Jackson” Riordan is back once again. The latest series in his Greek myth universe returns to Camp Half-Blood, introducing a new set of characters. Co-written with Annabelle Oh, The Wild Zone (Puffin, £16.99) features a Korean-American protagonist, Katie Kim, whose cabin-mates are forced to run with her through the Wild Zone at the camp’s edge, despite the peril-infested forest being off-limits.

parents have

been working

all hours, but

groceries are scant.

When one of them doesn't make it through, Katie is forced to mount a clandestine rescue operation. As ever, Riordan's works are full of action and wise-cracking, before a breadcrumb trail of hints leads to a cliffhanger ending that is truly gasp-worthy.

Luna, until now

obsessed with the

International

Space Station,

The books interview

Yiyun Li 'Death is not unfamiliar to me'

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Yiyun Li 'Death is not unfamiliar to me'

The Chinese-born

author on losing

her sons to suicide

and why she took

piano lessons in

order to write

her new novel. By

Ellen Peirson-Hagger

Yiyun Li, 53, is an author and professor at Princeton University. Born in Beijing, China, she moved to the US in 1996 and writes exclusively in English. Her books include the story collection A Thousand Years of Good Prayers, the novels Where Reasons End and The Book of Goose, and the memoir Things in Nature Merely Grow, which won a Pulitzer prize in 2026. Her latest novel is Music Against the Night, a fictionalised telling of the early lives of John Field, a composer born in Ireland in 1782, and his wife, Adelaide Percheron, born in 1790 in Pondicherry, French colonial India, who also dreamed of becoming a musician. It is due to be the first in a trilogy.

How did you first learn about John Field?

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How did you first learn about John Field?

I met him in Tolstoy's book. Tolstoy wrote a three-volume autobiography and the first volume is of his childhood. He described listening to his mother playing John Field. He described the mood, the colour, the dream shape of the music. I'd never heard of John Field. I thought: who is he?

What about him intrigued you? I found one very thin volume of John Field's biography. It was how little his wife was featured in the biography that made me think: this is interesting. There are no more than maybe five paragraphs about Adelaide Percheron, or Percherette, and yet we knew that she was born in Pondicherry and she travelled to Moscow. She wanted to be a musician. That was a compelling storyline. I thought: the two lives will be my subjects.

You begin with Percherette learning of John's death, before taking us back in time. Why start there?

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You begin with Percherette learning of John's death, before taking us back in time. Why start there?

It's important for the readers to know where John Field ends. He almost made it – he is a minor celebrity, but not immortal like Mozart or Chopin or Beethoven. And she, of course, is not known to anyone these days. I'm sure her music was all lost. It's interesting when you know the future, and yet there's still a path for them to live through. That's different from real life: we don't know our futures; we have to live to find them. But here, I know the end. The readers know the end. It's important for us to start on the same page.

What was your research process? I did tonnes of reading about musicians, the pianoforte industry, music publishing... Pondicherry history is another story. I don't know if this says anything about how much we forget history, but while everybody knows the English were in India, very few people know about French India. I did a lot of research about that. And of course about Moscow. But my biggest undertaking was to start piano lessons.

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Tell me more.

I'm not a musician. I don't have a music background. Early on, I thought: if I want to do this, I need to know how to play the piano. I went to a teacher and at first she wasn't keen – she usually doesn't take adult students. Then I auditioned with a book proposal. I said: "I'm going to write about these people, which means I need to know music." She was impressed, so she took me.

How did you find learning a new skill as an adult?

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How did you find learning a new skill as an adult?

When I told my editor, she said: "My God, you're going into method." It is good to know there's something you do really poorly. Of course, I want to play nicely, but I feel little pressure because I know I'm never going to be as good as those kids going to lessons. But there's something about knowing what John and Percherette were doing at the beginning, playing scales... it was important for me to mimic their movement on the keyboard. My teacher gave me a John Field nocturne to try, and, I mean, I'm not yet good enough, but I am playing. I'm playing Clementi at the moment, and Czerny.

Yiyun Li

photographed

in Princeton by

Maria Spann for

The Observer.

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All books available at observershop.co.uk

Observer

subscribers

receive a

20% discount

as part of

Culture Club

Why did you focus on your characters' childhoods?

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Why did you focus on your characters' childhoods?

I was talking to another novelist, who said: “Why bother with their childhood? Just launch them as adults.” But that is against everything I feel as a person. It’s important for us to grow up with John and Percherette, to know how it feels to be in their little bodies.

Are there enough good portrayals of childhood in contemporary literature? No. I wonder if it reflects our society. When my children were in pre-school, the teacher wrote a letter complaining about a news story. She said: "All the newspapers talk about children's education as preparation for their life, but a three-year-old is living her life as much as you all are." That's such a great way to put it. There's a certain neglect of how children are real people. It's important to treat children as real people, rather than pre-people.

You have written about your own suicide attempts, as well as the suicides of your sons Vincent, who was 16 when he died in 2017, and James, who was 19 when he died in 2024. Does writing offer you an escape from trauma?

Certainly, my life is not easy. When I was working on Music Against the Night – I know it sounds horrendously preposterous, but I don't think it's preposterous

– I said to my best friend: “I’ve written every single thing I know about life into this novel.” So I don’t think it’s an escape, but it’s a place to think through life, framed by someone else’s experience. Death is not unfamiliar to me. But the writing of the novel has sustained me.

You previously said you are against the word "grief". How do you feel about it now?

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You previously said you are against the word "grief". How do you feel about it now?

One thing I have learned is you can never say you're at the end of something because there's always something that comes after that end. In a personal way, of course, we don't have our children any more. In that sense, it's never going to change, and I don't shy away from that fact [even though] sometimes people feel tentative around me. Grief is going to be for ever and ever. But there is also an intellectual way of thinking: we're not trapped in the moment Vincent died, and we're not trapped in the moment James died. I am observing how time passes in my life, how it passes in a different way than in most people's lives.

Yiyun Li's Music Against the Night is published by Fourth Estate on 22 October (£20)

[Puzzles] Guess the picture by Laura Cumming

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[Puzzles] Guess the picture by Laura Cumming

This week's question: What and by whom (above)? Answer next Sunday.

Last week's detail showed the chair at the left of the Danish painter Vilhelm Hammershoi's Interior from the Home of the Artist, circa 1900. The quietude of Hammershoi's art is unique. Content to wander through the same few whitewashed rooms day after day, year after year, he paints the perfect silence of the Copenhagen apartment he barely left. The rooms, with their bare floors and polished furniture, are pointedly empty. The doors open only on to other doors and rooms beyond. Even the windows look on to other windows, or walls of opaque light. There is no opening out into the world, and even Hammershoi's wife is barely visible. The artist said that it was only at home in this apartment that he ever felt happy. This picture is in the Finnish National Gallery.

Cinema Connect

Each week we show three stills. Guess the films in question and the female historical figure who connects them. (Bonus point if you can put them in chronological order.)

Set by Killian Fox Answers on page 39

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Postcode

Five correct entries, drawn at random, will each win a £15 book token.

Post: Everyman No. 4,172, The Observer, 22 Berners Street, London W1T 3LP.

Email: competitions@observer.co.uk. Attach a photo or scan of your completed grid, or list answers by clue number (e.g. 1A: TiCS). The subject line must match the puzzle name and number in print (e.g. Everyman No. 4,172), or the entry will not be accepted.

Online and email entries close on the Saturday after publication. Postal entries must be postmarked by the Saturday after publication and arrive within ten days of publication.

Winners are usually announced on the Sunday two weeks after publication in print and in Caitlin O'Kane's Puzzles Observer newsletter. One entry per person. Full T&Cs: https://observer.co.uk/puzzles/everyman/article/crossword-prize-draws

Sudoku classic

Fill in the blank cells using the numbers 1 to 9. | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 1 | 3 | 6 | 1 | 8 | 1 | 3 | 8 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 2 | 5 | 7 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 9 | 5 | 1 | 6 | 8 | 4 | Each number must appear just once in every row, column and 3x3 box.

SOLUTION No. 4,171

Everyman No. 4,170

K Geary, Norfolk

Alastair Nixon, Surrey

Sarah Ryder, Sheffield

Martin Watson, Ayr

Peter Woodcock, Sheffield

Filled

Caitlin O'Kane's Puzzles Observer newsletter marks its first anniversary

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Vertical lines

Azed No. 2,784 - Plain

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Azed No. 2,784 - Plain

| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | Name | Address | Post code

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Across

4 What may have been wielded by shipmen, right? (9, 2 words)

11 Dandy/rake, right to left, neither first, in Gregorian cadence (6)

12 Procession, notice, in trim (6)

14 See wanton opening fantastic legs to writhe (8)

15 Driver avoiding circling the majority of ridges (4)

16 Declare singular turns relation left out (7)

17 A copycat turns revealing personality's innermost part (5)

19 Fairy or tube worm? Not so (7)

22 Oilman abroad in foreign city (6)

24 'Salve', following a R, i.e. 'scare off' (6)

26 Nautical cord e.g. twisted with open arm (7)

27 Tipples one bottled? These ones are different (from E. India) (5)

29 Stir uneasily in plot of a brownish hue (7)

32 Measure luminous appearance, not gold (4)

33 Run isn't common in the sea (8)

34 Story going about in Israel (6)

35 Behaves in accordance with son in stuffed jacket (6, 2 words)

36 Adolescent about staggerin', like the avenue? (9)

The Chambers Dictionary (2016) is recommended.

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The Chambers Dictionary (2016) is recommended.

Azed No. 2,783 solution & notes | $^{1}$ O | $^{2}$ R | $^{3}$ C | $^{4}$ H | E | $^{5}$ S | $^{6}$ T | $^{7}$ R | A | $^{8}$ T | $^{9}$ O | R | $^{10}$ W | H | E | A | T | M | E | A | L | O | L | $^{11}$ F | R | Y | D | D | $^{12}$ R | I | N | G | S | I | D | E | $^{13}$ A | N | U | R | A | L | A | W | $^{14}$ G | L | E | N | $^{15}$ P | E | L | O | T | A | $^{16}$ C | O | H | E | R | E | $^{17}$ R | O | A | M | $^{18}$ S | $^{19}$ X | E | R | $^{20}$ O | T | E | S | $^{21}$ A | U | $^{22}$ T | E | U | $^{23}$ R | $^{24}$ S | $^{25}$ T | U | $^{26}$ A | R | T | $^{27}$ S | $^{28}$ T | E | R | N | E | $^{29}$ T | A | T | T | $^{30}$ L | E | $^{31}$ C | A | N | G | R | A | R | $^{32}$ D | R | O | O | L | $^{33}$ A | P | O | S | I | T | I | C | A | C | R | L | L | P | U | $^{34}$ A | S | A | F | E | T | I | D | A | $^{35}$ H | A | R | V | E | S | T | F | E | A | S | T | Across: 12, cf. bard hop; 20, ur(n) ge(n); 34, s(E)al(E)mon.

Down: 2, reste(D) in PL; 3, ear + end in defers; 4, (d)ecod(e); 17, dec(ay) in spark; 21, 'jock, O so'; 28, go re.

Rules and requests

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Rules and requests

Open to UK residents aged 18 or over. Enter by post or email; digital subscribers may also enter online at observer.co.uk/puzzles.

Three correct entries, drawn at random, will each win a £25 book token.

Post: Azed No. 2,784, The Observer, 22 Berners Street, London W1T 3LP Enclose your completed grid with your name and address.

Email: competitions@observer.co.uk. Attach a photo or scan of your grid, or list answers by clue number (e.g. 1A: TICS). The subject line must match the puzzle name and number in print (e.g. "Azed No. 2,784"), or entry cannot be accepted.

Online and email entries close on the Saturday after publication. Postal entries must be postmarked by the Saturday after publication and arrive within ten days of publication.

Azed No. 2,784 winners are announced on Sunday 1 November 2026. One entry per person.

Full T&Cs: observer.co.uk/puzzles/everyman/article/crossword-prize-draws

Azed No. 2,783 prizewinners

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Azed No. 2,783 prizewinners

R Ainslie, Montpellier, Cheltenham

C Clarke, prize awaits; please confirm by email

D Preston, Barnstaple, Devon

Killer by Godefridus | 18 | 17 | 17 | 19 | 7 | 21 | 24 | 28 | 6 | 9 | 16 | 14 | 9 | 15 | 25 | 7 | 26 | 15 | 9 | 21 | 18 | 7 | 25 | 13 | 19 | Normal Sudoku rules apply, except the numbers in the cells contained within grey lines add up to the figures in the corner. No number can be repeated within each shape formed by the grey lines.

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Killer by Godefridus | 18 | 17 | 17 | 19 | 7 | 21 | 24 | 28 | 6 | 9 | 16 | 14 | 9 | 15 | 25 | 7 | 26 | 15 | 9 | 21 | 18 | 7 | 25 | 13 | 19 | Normal Sudoku rules apply, except the numbers in the cells contained within grey lines add up to the figures in the corner. No number can be repeated within each shape formed by the grey lines.

[Chess by Jonathan Speelman] Diagram 1

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[Chess by Jonathan Speelman] Diagram 1

Many congratulations to 11-year-old Bodhana Sivanandan, whose excellent performance on board one for England in Samarkand has made her the youngest women's grandmaster in history. Here in her previous play, Bodhana had established massive dark-square control, and she now cashed in with 25 h3 Bf5 26 Nxf5 gxf5 27 Qe6+ Kg6. Can you see the beautifully effective way she finished off? (See the end.)

Uzbekistan won the 46th Olympiad on home soil, beating Ukraine in the final round last Sunday in Samarkand to finish with 20/22 match points - 10 wins and a single loss to Germany. They were followed by India and Germany, both on 18 match points, in that order on tie-break.

It was a superb performance in which Uzbekistan played and beat all their main rivals, most notably USA, India and China. Three of their players won board medals, with Nodirbek Abdusattorov on board one achieving the best rating performance of all, 2869, ahead of Turkey's teenage sensation Yağız Kaan Erdoğanş, 2839, and India's Rameshbabu Praggnanandhaa, 2772. On board two, world championship challenger Javokhir Sindarov was third, behind Wei Yi (China) and Jorden Van Foreest (Netherlands). On board three Nodirbek Yakubboev was second to Frederik Svane (Germany). England (seeded eleventh) had a decent tournament, finishing ninth on 16 match points. Our best performance came from Luke McShane, who finished fifth on board four, resting just once for an unbeaten 7.5/10, including a victory against India's Nihal Sarin.

Ranked 60th, Scotland came 64th equal with 12 match points. On top board, Freddie Gordon scored an excellent 6/9. Wales (ranked 100th) and the (united) Ireland (ranked 66th) finished in the same score group on 12/22.

China dominated the parallel women's Olympiad, finishing unbeaten with 20/22 match points, ahead of Kazakhstan 20 and India, who got the bronze, plus four more teams on 17.

Seeded 20th, England were 12th equal. On top board, 11-year-old Bodhana Sivanandan played in every game, scoring a splendid 8/11 with six wins, four draws and just a single loss. Her play has matured greatly this year and it will be fascinating to follow her progress over the coming years.

Abdusattorov's performance was extraordinary: an unbeaten 8.5/11 with former world champion Ding Liren and Fabiano Caruana among his six victims.

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Diagram 2

29...f4? Presumably in the belief that White can't capture on e5. 29...h6 was the best chance, as 30 Rxe5? can be met by Bxf3 – now possible because White can't counter 31 Rg5. Instead 30 b5 Ba8 is extremely complicated, though computers do really like White.

30 Rxe5! Rd2 If 30...Bxf3? 31 Rg5! or 30...Rxf3 31 Re6 Qxe6 32 Rxe6 Rxf2 33 Kxf2 and the pawns should decide.

31 R5e2 Rd1 32 b5 Bb7 33 Bb4

Abdusattorov was now in full control and won with just a little care. 33...h6 34 c5 Qb1 35 Rb2 Qc1 36 c6 Rxe1+

37 Bxe1 Rd1 38 Re2 Bc8 39 Kh2 Kh7 40 Re5 Bf5 41 Qc5 Bc2 42 c7 Rxe1 43 Rxe1 Qxe1 44 Qxc2+ g6 45 Qe4 Preventing the perpetual check, so Ding resigned.

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Diagram 3

36 h4 gxh4+?! Perfectly playable, but now the king gets in. 36...Rb4 37 hxg5 Rdd4 obviously needed to be checked carefully but in fact after eg 38 Kh4 Rxg4+ 39 Kh5 Kf7 40 g6+ Kf8 41 f6 Rh4+ 42 Kg5 Rhg4+ 43 Kf5 gxf6 White's king is as exposed as Blacks and it's a draw. 37 Kxh4 Rd3 38 Rfe3 Kf8 39 Kh5 a5 40 Re7 Rxb3? The decisive mistake, because now either White's king is able to settle on g6 or he gains a decisive tempo. 40...Rh3+! 41 Kg5 Rxb3 42 Rc7 Rh3! 43 Ree7 Rh7 looks a bit manky but should hold. 41 g5 Rb6 42 g6 Threatening Rf7+ followed by Ree7 42...Rf6 43 Kg5 Kg8 If 43...a4 44 Rh2 Kg8 45 Rh7! 44 Rxg7+! Kxg7 45 Re7+ Kg8 46 Kxf6 a4 47 Rg7+ Kh8 48 Rxb7 Ra8

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Diagram 4

49 Kg5 And Caruana resigned because of 49...a3 50 f6 a2 51 Rh7+ Kg8 52 f7+ Kf8 53 Rh8+ Ke7 54 Rxa8

In diagram 1 after

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In diagram 1 after

25 h3 Bf5 If 25...Bf126 Qe6 is mate at once or 25...g5 26 hxg4 gxh4 27 Qe6+ Kg6 28 Qf5+ Kf7 29 Qxh5 mate. 26 Nxf5 gxf5 27 Qe6+ Kg6 28 g4! fxg4 29 hxg4 hxg4 30 Qxg4+ Kh6 The deadly retreat. 31 Ba3! created the unanswerable threat of 32 Bc1 mate so Black resigned.

Sivanandan (to play) v Deborah Quickpen

2 Nodirbek

Abdusattorov v

Ding Liren (to play)

3 N Abdusattorov (to play) v Fabiano Caruana

4 N Abdusattorov (to play) v Fabiano Caruana

Lexipedia Quiz: on censorship by Joshua Blackburn

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Lexipedia Quiz: on censorship by Joshua Blackburn

1. What was the original Latin meaning of the word "censor"?

A) Magistrate

B) Pencil

C) Obstacle

D) Short sword

2. Which work was not banned by the Catholic church?

A) Justine (Marquis de Sade)

B) Mein Kampf (Adolf Hitler)

C) Les Misérables (Victor Hugo)

D) The History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Edward Gibbon)

3. A literary work that has been stripped of offensive content is said to have been what?

A) Cauterised

B) Euphemised

C) Bowdlerised

D) Pasteurised

4. What word means "the deliberate destruction of books"?

A) Biblioclasm

B) Bookicide

C) Verbination

D) Textecution

5. Which US state banned the most books in 2025?

A) Florida

B) Georgia

C) Utah

D) California

6. Heresy – beliefs contrary to orthodox doctrine – derives from the Greek hairesis, meaning what?

A) Making a mistake

B) Walking the wrong way

C) Choosing for oneself

D) Spoiling food (eg by oversalting)

Lucky dip bonus question

7. What is the error code for online content blocked for legal reasons, such as censorship, court orders or copyright claims?

A) Error 001

B) Error 123

C) Error 451

D) Error 999

Answers below

A word about... Banned books

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A word about... Banned books

Today marks the start of Banned Books Week, during which the American Library Association reveals how many titles have been challenged and banned in US libraries and schools in the last 12 months. This annual fixture has been running for more than 40 years and it tells a bleak story. In 2000, according to the ALA, 378 titles were challenged for library removal. This number crept down over the next two decades, but in 2021 it soared: 1,858 were challenged for removal that year; 2,571 in 2022; and in 2025, 4,235 – the second highest in the history of Banned Books Week. A challenge doesn’t necessarily lead to a ban, but in 2025, 66% of challenges resulted in libraries removing the offending title.

Of course, book bans are nothing new. It took less than 50 years from the invention of the printing press around 1440 for the first book to be banned – Giovanni Pico della Mirandola's 900 Theses, in 1487. Here, the authority doing the banning was the Catholic church,

which became a dab hand at banning books. For just over 400 years, the Vatican's Index Librorum Prohibitorum (Index of Prohibited Books) was the Church's official blacklist. When it was finally retired in 1966 it contained about 4,300 entries, including works by Descartes, Kante, Locke, Rousseau, Voltaire and more (but nothing, surprisingly, by Charles Darwin).

Here in the UK we might congratulate ourselves for not being the book-banning types, Section 28 notwithstanding – but don’t be complacent. In recent years, British librarians have noticed a rising number of requests to remove books, particularly those exploring LGBTQ+ issues. They might not face the same pressures as the ALA, but we must remain vigilant. As the ALA says: “Protect the freedom to read.”

Joshua Blackburn is the author of The Language-Lover's Lexipedia (Bloomsbury, £14.99). Order for £13.49 from observershop.co.uk. Delivery charges may apply

Goldilocks SOLUTION No.44

Scan to subscribe to Caitlin O'Kane's Puzzles Observer – the weekly newsletter from our puzzles editor

Goldilocks crossword No. 45

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Goldilocks crossword No. 45

Not too hard. Not too easy. Just right.

Goldilocks clues exclude enumerations; in a mid-sized crossword, they only make an already compact puzzle more straightforward. The enjoyment lies in lateral thinking, grid observations, and the distinctly modern British vernacular. Play the Goldilocks archive online by subscribing at observer.co.uk | $^1$ T | $^2$ S | $^3$ P | $^4$ S | | $^5$ G | $^6$ E | $^7$ S | $^8$ T | $^9$ E | E | R | Y | $^{10}$ U | D | O | N | $^{11}$ M | O | O | N | $^{12}$ L | I | G | H | T | $^{13}$ P | U | D | $^{14}$ A | L | B | | $^{15}$ E | L | U | $^{16}$ C | I | D | A | $^{17}$ T | $^{18}$ E | | $^{19}$ C | A | R | $^{20}$ S | I | N | $^{21}$ A | $^{22}$ N | E | C | D | $^{23}$ O | T | E | S | $^{24}$ P | O | R | T | | $^{25}$ B | O | R | U | $^{26}$ D | E | S | I | $^{27}$ I | N | S | E |

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Across

1 Joanna Lumley show, for short

6 Silent agreement

9 "Me too!"

10 Egg cells

11 Paul, Linda & Stella

13 Hollyoaks character Wilson

14 Wails

15 Farrow & Ball product

17 Michael of Monty Python fame

19 Greek goddess of mischief

22 Award that might be a piece of cake to earn?

24 Former Spurs star Heung-Min

25 The 02, e.g.

26 Explosive initials

27 Proper lads?

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Down

1 Genre of satisfying videos, for short

2 Mouth, in Spanish

3 Totally wipe out

4 Q&A session on Reddit

5 Luxury accessory first conceived on an airplane napkin

6 Response to "no offense"

7 Where one's dough might grow

8 "Oh my \_!"

12 Number of literary little soldier boys

16 It's all around us

17 "Ahem" relative

18 Loads

20 Location where 22-Across is awarded

21 Lover and Reputation, for Swift

23 \_ You Being Served?

Big Apple Sudoku by Godefridus

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outlawed.

Every row, column, and $3 \times 3$ box must contain the digits 1-9, plus an extra twist - the four highlighted $3 \times 3$ blue squares together form an additional set of boxes, which must also include 1-9 with no repeats

4. A) Biddloclast The destruction of vandalism of books is known as biblioclasm. Related to this is the noun “schools” (a pallindrome of “books” - that is, a stock of books associated in order to be destroyed, primarily as an arbitrary statement. 5. (A) Florida According to the American Liberty Association, Florida cholesterol and dance book of any U state in 2025. In fact, Florida challenged multiple books (3), 711 than other 49 combined. 6. (C) Choosing for oneself the Latin words from, which we get the English word “heresy”, derives from Greek harsels, meaning to take or choose for oneself in Latin, the word originally meant a particular school or thought of a religious sect. 7. (C Error 451 The code is named after Ray Bradbury's novel Farenheift 451, which takes place in a dystopian word where books are

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Staying in

Audio

Obama, Hanks and the evolution of manhood

Miranda Sawyer

Understand: Seven Ages of Man

BBC Radio 4/BBC Sounds

A Great Book with Barack

Obama Higher Ground

Please Don't BBC Sounds

For Radio 4's Understand strand, cosy poet Michael Rosen is working his way through the Seven Ages of Man. The former children's laureate, well known to the station's listeners as the host of Word of Mouth, nearly died from coronavirus in 2020 and, he said, emerged from his illness with a few questions about mortality and the nature of being a man. Hence these programmes, in which we meet interesting, articulate men in particular decades of their lives:

Michael Palin, Colm Tóibín, David Baddiel, Vittorio Angelone and more.

We start with eightysomething Palin and work down to being in your 20s, with comedian Angelone. Although Palin is always a delight, and Baddiel thoroughly entertaining, I found myself enjoying the series more and more as it got younger. It's nice to hear from men who admit that they haven't got it all worked out. Angelone was open and vulnerable, and ex-professional footballer Marvin Sordell (30s) was too.

It was exceptionally moving hearing younger men talk about how masculinity can work for them, instead of oppressing them. Sordell told how a culture of being “a strong man” can lead to depression and suicide attempts; Angelone said that the much maligned Jordan Peterson was instrumental in him realising that some aspects of masculinity, such as taking responsibility for

yourself, are fundamental. Both talked about searching for ways to be softer and sillier.

The lead singer of Fat White Family, Lias Saoudi (40s), talked about how shocking it can be to have a child when you've concentrated on your own self-expression and hedonism right up until that child arrives. "What have I done?" he said. "My only concept of fatherhood was all those things that I stood to lose... The things you stand to gain are such a mystery." The writer Matthew Todd (50s) discussed how hard it was growing up gay in the time of Aids, and how becoming obsessed with Phantom of the Opera helped: "I felt like a monster, I did feel like a monster... it really made a difference to me. There is a world of people that will accept me."

Obama and Hanks, even when confessing their foibles (Hanks only likes big books, 400-pagers) are never less than alpha

Rosen didn't do all the interviews. Some are the work of excellent audio producer Rich Power, and in those the contrast between the touching intimacy and Rosen's warm but sometimes skim-the-surface script occasionally felt odd. But it didn't really matter. All these men were making subtle points about learning how to be themselves, describing a manliness not discussed in the clamour about toxic masculinity and the manosphere. Great stuff.

Here's a couple of superior exemplars of non-toxic men: Barack Obama and Tom Hanks. The former has a new podcast, A Great Book with Barack Obama, and the actor is his first guest. Both are utterly charming: welcoming and articulate, warm and informed. They're also a bit... American. The contrast between their smooth certainties and the wonkiness of the men in the Seven Ages of Man actually made me laugh. Somehow, Obama and Hanks, even when confessing their foibles (Hanks only likes really big books, 400-pagers) are never less than alpha.

It was enjoyable to hear the differences in how they expressed themselves: Hanks, fluent, wordy and unstoppable, until Obama

stepped in; the former president maintaining status through lengthy pauses that no one – not even Hanks – would dare to interrupt. The book under discussion, the Pulitzer prize-winning Gilead by Marilynne Robinson, is about a dying pastor, writing a letter to his young son – one of those “great wisdom” novels with revealing epithets and how-life-really-is stories. Obama and Hanks both loved it.

More meet-your-granny soft boys: journalists Raven Smith and Joel Golby have a chatty new show, Please Don't, in which they pick apart tiny aspects of modern culture. It's funny and daft, drenched in their charisma, though may be a little impenetrable for people not completely au fait with millennial obsessions.

And at last Thursday's British Podcast awards, Bill Nighy, a prime example of a thoroughly excellent man, was a worthy winner of best host for Ill-Advised. Pete Wicks's show Man Made, in which he – yep – examines masculinity, also got two gongs: best health and wellbeing podcast, and best interview podcast. Hooray for those men who try to understand, rather than just acting out for ever.

THE OBSERVER

Culture

Club

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Subscribe to The Observer for £1 to join our Culture Club

Enjoy 2 for 1 tickets to

Painting the French Riviera at the RA

Plus over £800 worth of benefits tailored for the culturally curious

RA Royal Academy of Arts

Kees Van Dongen, The White Lady (detail), 1926. Oil on canvas, 61 x 50 cm. Private collection, Courtesy of Galerie Philippe David, Zurich. Photo: Alamy. Exhibition organised by the Royal Academy of Arts, London in collaboration with the Cleveland Museum of Art

Unlock your benefit here

The week's highlights

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The week's highlights

By Craig McLean, Kay Ribeiro and Stephen Armstrong

Films by Jonathan Romney

[Today] Pick of the Day The Reluctant Vampire BBC One, 6.40pm

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[Today] Pick of the Day The Reluctant Vampire BBC One, 6.40pm

Based on Eric Morecambe's children's novel, adapted by Alan Partridge writers Neil and Rob Gibbons, and boasting an impressive funny-bones cast, this slick coming-of-age comedy hits the sweet spot. Tom Davis plays Victor, the king of vampires, with scene-stealer Lenny Rush as Val, his heir. Val must pass his vampire initiation, but there's a major hurdle: he's actually a human, a secret revealed by his doting mum (Sian Clifford). Ghosts with bloodsuckers, it's fangtastic fun. KR

BBC Young Musician 2026

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BBC Young Musician 2026

BBC Four, 7.30pm

Almost two decades after he won this competition, aged 12, trombonist Peter Moore judges with pianist Joanna MacGregor and conductor Ben Gernon. At the first of two live auditions at Bath Spa University, the trio will select one musician to represent percussion, keyboard, brass and woodwind in the quarter-finals, as well as three wildcards. KR

David Bamber Remembers...

My Night with Reg BBC Four, 10pm

The actor talks about the “sensation” that was Kevin Elyot’s 1994 play, for which Bamber, who played the role of Guy at the Royal Court, won the Olivier for best actor. Over three gatherings in his flat during the mid-1980s, Guy and his friends navigate love and loss in the shadow of Aids. The BBC’s 1997 adaptation follows. CMc

Film The Order

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Film The Order

(Justin Kurzel, 2024)

BBC Two, 10pm

Australian director Justin Kurzel has form when it comes to depicting characters on the extreme fringes, from the killers in his 2011 debut Snowtown through to the troubled loner of Nitram. Here it's American neo-Nazis – the target of an FBI pursuit in this 1980s-set true-crime drama. Jude Law plays the agent chasing a militant far-right faction, with Nicholas Hoult as its mastermind: a disarmingly smiling country boy with visions of a white supremacist promised land, and ruthless plans for making it happen. With the unnerving Hoult set against Law's prickly lead, The Order hits a nerve both as a gripping cop thriller and as a well-timed history lesson on the excesses of America's far right. JR

[Monday] Pick of the Day

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[Monday] Pick of the Day

Pierre

Channel 4, 9pm

David Harewood remarked of his first lead TV role: “This is the character I’ve been waiting my whole career to play.” Five minutes into Roy Williams and John Donnelly’s cracking legal drama, you can see why. Duty solicitor Pierre Jeffreys is a standup guy: funny, hardworking and deeply principled. Repping underdogs is his raison d’être, so the death of a young black client in suspicious circumstances hits Pierre hard – especially as he suspects police foul play. KR

Cooking with the Stars ITV1, 7.30pm

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Cooking with the Stars ITV1, 7.30pm

Strictly's Emma Willis and Tom Allen return for a sixth series, as 12 stars – mentored by world-class chefs – compete to be crowned winner. Now trimmed to a bite-size half hour, the show rattles along at breakneck speed. Actors Caroline Quentin, Mark Charnock and gladiator Harry Aikines-Aryeetey go head-to-head in the first episode. Expect gong-bongs and tears. KR

Damilola: The Untold Story BBC Two, 9pm

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Damilola: The Untold Story BBC Two, 9pm

This moving documentary recounts the final 24 hours of Damilola Taylor, the happy, carefree 10-year-old who was murdered in Peckham, south-east London, in 2000. Loved ones and those who saw him last, including friends Grace and John Boyega, speak of their devastation, the subsequent trials and surge in youth violence, and Taylor's lasting legacy. KR

One of the big critical hits of recent years, this intimate drama reminded the world that India has a formidable tradition of art cinema – here reinvented to magical effect. Payal Kapadia's previous film, A Night of Knowing Nothing, was a documentary – and her follow-up is a drama given a documentary-style grounding. It's about three women working in Mumbai: two are nurses – Prabha is far away from her husband, with whom she had an arranged marriage; Anu is enjoying an affair – and the third, Parvaty, is a hospital cook facing eviction. The nurses join Parvaty when she returns to the coast, and their experiences entwine to poetic effect. Contemplative, hypnotic, full of grit: this more than merits its rapturous acclaim. JR

[Tuesday | Pick of the Day] Uefa Nations League: England

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[Tuesday | Pick of the Day] Uefa Nations League: England

(Payal Kapadia, 2024)

Film4, 10.20pm

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Bel

Film

England's fourth match in an intense opening 10 days in the competition with, at the time of writing, one win from two. The international schedule remains packed. Also today: Scotland v Slovenia, BBC Two, 7.30pm. And, backwards and forwards across the week: Wales v Denmark, Sunday, BBC Two, 7.30pm; Northern Ireland v Georgia, Monday, BBC Three, 7.30pm. On Friday, a Women's World Cup European qualifier: Greece v England, ITV1, 5pm. CMc

BBC Four, 10pm

Madeleine McCann: The Case That Broke Britain Prime Video

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Madeleine McCann: The Case That Broke Britain Prime Video

A wrenching doc about Beldina Odenyo, the Scottish-Kenyan singer-songwriter whose voice, virtuosity and emotional heft echoed that of Jeff Buckley. In October 2021, she wowed Edinburgh's Usher Hall; two weeks later, she took her own life. As her sister says, her music remains “the purest expression of what it means to be broken... what it means to survive”. CMc

Approaching the 20-year anniversary of the three-year-old's disappearance, a two-part true-crime doc exploring the recent social media obsession with the case, including the saga of a Polish woman who claimed to be her. An exploration of a story “trending” with gen Z and millennials; a tragedy now with a topspin of trolling. Disturbing all round. CMc

Film Bram Stoker's Dracula

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Film Bram Stoker's Dracula

(Francis Ford Coppola, 1992)

BBC One, 10.40pm

Until the recent, ill-starred Megalopolis, this was Francis Coppola's last hurrah as a big-time creator of extravagant images. This hallucinatory panto takes the Dracula myth back to its Carpathian roots while providing plentiful gothic imagery for genre fans. Gary Oldman gives his ripest performance ever as the count, his various incarnations including a wizened aristo and a Ripper-like Victorian dandy. Winona Ryder and Keanu Reeves are the innocents drawn into his web, with Tom Waits as the Count's madcap minion Renfield and Anthony Hopkins as vampire hunter Van Helsing. Shot by Michael Ballhaus, this stands among the legion of Dracula movies as one of the most extravagantly batty. JR

[Wednesday] Pick of the Day Carrie

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[Wednesday] Pick of the Day Carrie

Prime Video

Brian De Palma's 1976 film adaptation of Stephen King's novel casts a long, shivery shadow, as does the iconic performance of Sissy Spacek as the troubled adolescent with telekinetic powers. But this eight-part series from seasoned horror auteur Mike Flanagan gets off to a scorching start, with scenes of not just a school gymnasium but a whole town in flames on prom night. As Carrie White, Summer H Howell is a sensation. This girl – and this show – are on fire. CMc

Echoes from Below: Exploring Britain's Caves BBC Four, 8pm

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Echoes from Below: Exploring Britain's Caves BBC Four, 8pm

Bathophobics beware, this documentary plunges new epic depths, mainly that of Titan in the Peak District, considered the longest vertical drop of any British cave. Discovered in 1999 by cave explorer Dave Nixon, he and his team now employ a 3D scanner to discover Titan's true size. Creswell Crags, Kinver Edger and Wookey Hole also feature. KR

Portrait Artist of the Year 2026 Sky Atlantic, 9pm

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Portrait Artist of the Year 2026 Sky Atlantic, 9pm

A refresh of personnel for series 13 spells bad luck for fans of the bromance between host Stephen Mangan and judge Tai-Shan Schierenberg. Artist Jonathan Yeo, art historian Katy Hessel and director of Frieze London, Eva Langret, find their feet in episode one, as competitors capture Lenny James, Vanessa Williams and Sheridan Smith. KR

Film The Day of the Jackal

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Film The Day of the Jackal

(Fred Zinnemann, 1973)

Legend Xtra, 9pm

Frederick Forsyth's 1971 bestseller was inspired by a real-life attempt to assassinate French president Charles de Gaulle. Hollywood veteran Fred Zinnemann (High Noon, From Here to Eternity) made it into a much-admired blockbuster. Edward Fox plays the assassin known as the Jackal, with French art-house stalwart and Bond baddie Michel Lonsdale as the commissaire on his trail. That other icon of Euro-cinephilia, Delphine Seyrig, also appears, while the British contingent includes Derek Jacobi, Alan Badel and Terence Alexander. Many critics raved about the film while others felt it clung too literally to the book; Akira Kurosawa, no less, listed it among his 100 all-time favourites. JR

[Thursday] Pick of the Day The Celebrity Traitors BBC One, 8pm

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[Thursday] Pick of the Day The Celebrity Traitors BBC One, 8pm

At the time of going to press, only the first episode of the new series has been broadcast, and no further screeners are available, so there's no predicting what castle carnage awaits. The only certainty is that if chaos merchant Richard E(vil genius) Grant lives to betray another day, it will be a minor miracle. As for whether Ross Kemp has drowned in a pool of his own paranoia or Miranda Hart (below) has advanced her Miss Marple audition remains to be seen... KR

Small Achievable Goals ITVX

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Small Achievable Goals ITVX

A second series of the relatable Canadian comedy about unlikely duo Julie and Kris (creators Jennifer Whalen and Meredith MacNeill), navigating midlife via their popular podcast. With new boss Amanda (Tamara Podemski) demanding the friends reach No 1 across all platforms and film every podcast episode, their joint breakdown is imminent. KR

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The Paper

Sky One, 11pm & 11.30pm

Sky One, 11pm & 11.36pm

It's the series two finale for the comedy that finds much-needed humour in local newspapers. Sabrina Impacciatore's reporter is undercover as a schoolboy (in her son's class). Domhnall Gleeson's editor battles a fever and/or broken heart, declaring: "I'm not looking at you like an ex-girlfriend. I'm looking at you like a great journalist." (You can dream – Ed.) CMc

Film Medusa Deluxe

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Film Medusa Deluxe

(Thomas Hardiman, 2022)

BBC Two, 12.05am

A brazenly mischievous and inventive outlier in contemporary British cinema, Thomas Hardiman's bold debut feature is a murder mystery set at a hairdressing competition. As Robbie Ryan's camera ducks in and out of dressing rooms – the whole film shot as if in one single take – we meet the various witnesses and suspects, played by a terrific cast, including Clare Perkins, Kayla Meikle, Harriet Webb, and Darrell D'Silva as the flustered event organiser. Amid all the revelations about the characters' love lives, you start to wonder whether this dense weave can ever be anteased. But stick with it: as the story and the visual style heat up, the film works its singular Medusa-like spell. JR

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Friday

Pick of the Day

Getting It Back: The Story of

Cymande BBC Four, 10.40pm

An appropriately languorous, looping and loving 2022 documentary about the “lost” British psych-funk band sampled by the Fugees, De La Soul and Wu-Tang Clan. Cymande, formed in south London in 1971 by seven Caribbean-born musicians, recorded three albums during a time of overt racism and a covert music industry colour bar. They split in 1975, but their grooves and spirit live on. Their music is “otherworldly”, according to Mark Ronson. “Like it came down on a spaceship.” CMc

Animals

Netflix

After pump-action cop film The Rip, here's Ben Affleck's second knife-edge – albeit blunter – thriller for Netflix this year. He directs and co-writes, giving himself a punchy role as an LA mayoral candidate whose campaign and morals are tested when his son is kidnapped. With Kerry Washington, Steven Yeun and – icy and English-accented – Gillian Anderson. CMc

Play for Today: Closing Time 5, 9pm

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Play for Today: Closing Time 5, 9pm

A kebab shop provides the unlikely backdrop for Mina Barger's thoughtful love story, exploring what it is to be British Asian and the immigrant experience. A late-night encounter between bride-to-be lawyer Laila (Ellora Torchia) and cook Mo (Antonio Aakeel) leads to a complex affair, bringing their dreams and beliefs of what is possible into sharp focus. KR

Film

Longlegs

(Osgood Perkins, 2024)

BBC Two, 10pm

The profile of writer-director Osgood Perkins increased from his debut, 2015 chiller The Blackcoat's Daughter, onwards. His fourth feature, Longlegs, consolidated his reputation as a playful tinkerer with horror codes. Set in the 1990s, it stars Maika Monroe (It Follows) as an FBI agent pursuing an elusive child murderer with an occult obsession and a love of Marc Bolan and T Rex. "Longlegs" is played by Nicolas Cage, in one of his most eccentric performances ever, which is saying something. There may be less to Longlegs than meets the eye – but what meets the eye is very stylishly retro, not least thanks to Andrés Arochi Tinajero's intensely atmospheric camerawork. And the shivers are palpably effective. JR

[Saturday | Pick of the Day] Forty Hits of 1976 at the BBC BBC Two, 8.40pm

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[Saturday | Pick of the Day] Forty Hits of 1976 at the BBC BBC Two, 8.40pm

1976 might have been the year that punk broke, but not in the charts and not at Auntie Beeb. Tonight, the old guard remain in charge, firmly hogging the middle of the road: Elton John and Kiki Dee (below), Cliff Richard, Dolly Parton, Brotherhood of Man and some pop-perfection Swedes. Speaking of whom, the programme is followed by ABBA at the BBC (11.10pm), More ABBA at the BBC (12.10am) and Top of the Pops: The Story of 1976 (1.10am). May contain nutters (ie the Wurzels). CMc

Buckingham Palace: A Year in the Life 5, 8.35pm

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Buckingham Palace: A Year in the Life 5, 8.35pm

It's autumn and the palace is gearing up for a flurry of important state visits and banquets, "complex, logistical and diplomatic high-wire acts". Not all guests are welcome, though, as the royal rat catcher is on high alert for the seasonal migration of rodents looking to upgrade their accommodation. Plus, more secrets of the palace's £369m makeover. KR

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Krapopolis

BBC Three, 11.40pm

A six-episode primer to this adult animation from Dan Harmon (Rick and Morty), already three series deep in the US. In an even-more-mythical version of mythical Greece, Tyrannis (Richard Ayoade) is the half-god, half-shlub king of Krapopolis. Matt Berry and Hannah Waddingham voice his parents-from-Hades. The rest is ancient history-slash-comedy. CMc

Film Poor Things

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Film Poor Things

(Yorgos Lanthimos, 2023)

Channel 4, 10pm

Even in the filmography of Yorgos Lanthimos (The Lobster, Bugonia), this dark comedy stands out as a daring, downright strange creation – which can be said, too, of the film’s singular heroine. Based on the novel by Alasdair Gray, this is a feminist Frankenstein story. Willem Dafoe plays eccentric surgeon Godwin Baxter, who restores a young woman (Emma Stone) to life after her attempted suicide, but with a new brain. Essentially a wilful, unpredictable child in a woman’s body, Baxter’s “creation”, Bella, learns fast – about language, the world and her own sexuality. It’s visually baroque in the extreme, but the stylistic lushness never detracts from Stone’s heady, witty performance at the centre. JR

[TV streaming] Picks of the Week

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[TV streaming] Picks of the Week

Back in 1995, Noel Gallagher sang: "Please don't put your life in the hands / Of a rock'n'roll band / Who'll throw it all away." Watching Oasis: Don't Look Back in Anger (Disney +, Friday), it would appear we weren't listening. The band's 2025 comeback tour was an event less for the performance itself – the songs were great, but the setlist remained unchanged, the band stood still, and the sound was so well mixed it was like listening to a recording – than for the culture shock it delivered. But how to capture the significance of the event on film? The concerts only tell part of the story. More compelling is the hidden camera footage of the months of tense band rehearsals in Wimbledon, with Liam and Noel not having spoken for 15 years.

To their credit, the film-makers – Peaky Blinders writer Steven Knight, and the Shut Up and Play the Hits directing duo of Will Lovelace and Dylan Southern – also take an interest in the fans. And we get to hear from plenty of them, from as far afield as South Korea, Japan, Argentina and Brazil. Cinematographers including Haris Zambarloukos (Belfast), Lol Crawley (The Brutalist), James Laxton (Moonlight), Suzie Lavelle (Normal People), and Park Junghoon (The Villainess) pitch in, documenting 12 concerts across three continents with one instruction: “Film your experience of the show.”

The result – the tears, the disbelief, the fusion – is possibly best summed up during the first, ecstatic night in Cardiff, where a visibly stunned fan in Adidas is comforted by a random fellow concert-goer beside him. Noel admits on camera that he was wholly unprepared for the “intense outpouring of joy and tears... and the sense of what it meant to people”. Of course, Oasis are back touring the world all over again next year, unless they really do decide to throw it all away (again).

Talking of greatest hits, season two of Star Trek Strange New Worlds (ITVX, Sunday) is something of a classic Trek tribute, kicking off with a distress call and steal-the-Enterprise story that tips its hat to The Search for Spock, while episode two is a courtroom drama in the vein of The Measure of a Man from the Next Generation era. Old-school mission-of-the-week trope-laden sci-fi – and we wouldn't want it any other way. SA

Oasis: Don't Look Back in Anger. Joe Maher/ Getty Images | 6.0 | News (T) 9.0 Sunday with Laura Kuenssberg (T)10.0Politics England (T)10.30Sunday Morning Live (T)11.30 Money for Nothing (T)(R)12.0 Bargain Hunt (T)(R)12.35 Lifeline (T)12.45Points of View (T)1.0News (T)1.10 Weather (T)1.15 Songs of Praise (T)2.0FILM Shrek 2 (2004)(T)3.25 Kingdom (T) (R)4.15 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R)5.15 News(T)5.40 Countryfile (T)6.40 The Reluctant Vampire(T)7.10 Strictly Come Dancing: The Results (T) | 6.30 A to Z of TV Gardening7.15 Glorious Gardens from Above8.0 Countryfile9.0Landward (T)9.30 The Best of Weatherman Walking10.0 Saturday Kitchen Best Bites (T)11.30 Eva Longoria: Searching for France (T) (R)12.10 Lorraine Pascale: How to Be a Better Cook12.40Nigel and Adam's Farm Kitchen1.45 Rugby League Grand Final2.45FILMThe Man Who Would Be King (T)4.50 This Farming Life (T) (R)5.50 Flog It!(T) (R)6.50 Eva Longoria: Searching for France (T) | 6.0 The Voice UK (T) (R)7.0James Martin's Saturday Morning (T) (R)9.25News (T)9.30 Love Your Weekend with Alan Titchmarsh (T)11.25Fletchers' Family Farm (T)12.25 Love Your Garden (T)(R)12.50 News (T) Weather1.0 ITV Racing Live: Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe (T)3.30FILM GoldenEye (1995) (T)5.50 The Chase (T) (R)6.40News (T) Weather6.50Local News (T) Weather7.0The Box (T) Unsuspecting members of the public become part of the game. | 6.10 Cheers (T) (R)7.30Everybody Loves Raymond (T) (R)8.55 The Simpsons (T) (R)10.0 Sunday Brunch (T)1.0 F1 Bahrain GP in Malaysia (T)3.30 The Dog House (T) (R)4.15 George Clarke's Amazing Spaces (T) (R)5.15 Worst House on the Street (T) (R)6.15News (T)6.45 Devon and Cornwall (T) (R) Artist Steve Pleydell-Pearce veers off from his normal coastal hotspots.7.45 The Great Celebrity Pottery Throw Down (T) The celebrities create a garden gnome set. | 6.0 Milkshake! 9.0Entertainment News (T)9.05 The Cruise: Fun-Loving Brits at Sea (T)(R)11.05 Holidaying with Jane McDonald (T) (R)12.0 Warship: Life in the Royal Navy (T) (R)2.0 Live: NFL Big Game Day (T)Washington Commanders v Indianapolis Colts (kick-off 2.30pm).5.30 The Wonderful World of Chocolate (T)6.0 Million Pound Motorhomes (T)(R) (R)6.55 News (T)7.0Petrol vs Electric Cars: Which Is Better? (T) (R) | 7.0 A Stitch in Time (T)Exploring Dutch painter Jan van Eyck's Arnolfini Portrait.7.30 BBC Young Musician 2026(T) The search for the next classical music superstar.Petroc Trelawny presents highlights of the auditions. | 8.0 Antiques Roadshow (T)The team visits Caerphilly Castle in south Wales, where finds include a rare record by Led Zeppelin.9.0The Split Up (T) Legal drama. Aria struggles to convince Dhruv to come clean as she grapples with guilt over her own betrayal. | 7.30 Match of the Day WalesLive (T) Wales v Denmark (kick-off 7.45pm). Action from both teams' fourth match in group A4 of the Uefa Nations League, at Cardiff City Stadium. The teams met a week ago in Copenhagen, with Denmark claiming a 2-0 win. | 8.0 Who Wants to Be a Millionaire? (T) (R) Big-prize quiz show, hosted by Jeremy Clarkson.9.0The Blame (T) A suspect is brought in for questioning. DI Emma Crane seeks help from an ally to bring her one step closer to the identity of Sophie's killer. | 9.0 Apocalypse (T) Reality challenge series. The Westsiders discover that their precious goats have been stolen and declare war on the East - but end up fighting among themselves. Psychologist Kiera hatches a plan to best use new arrival Alix. | 8.0 22 Kids & Counting (T)Sue Radford tries to teach her son Max to drive.9.0Live: NFL on 5 (T) San Francisco 49ers v Denver Broncos (kick-off 9.25pm). Dermot O'Leary, Sam Quek, and Osi Umenyiora present coverage of the match from Levi's Stadium. | 9.0 Mysteries of the Bayeux Tapestry (T) The famous 11th-century embroidery depicting the story of the Norman conquest of England is an extraordinary work of art. Experts join forces to unravel its mysteries, to shed light on a pivotal moment in history. | 10.0 News (T)10.25 Regional News (T) Weather10.30FILM Whitney Houston:I Wanna Dance with Somebody (2022) (T)12.45 Weather for the Week Ahead (T)12.50 News (T) | 10.0FILM The Order (2024) (T)11.50 Saving Lives at Sea (T) (R)12.50FILM The Crime Is Mine(François Ozon, 2023) (T)2.30 Sign Zone: Question Time (T) (R)3.30 Sign Zone: Saving Lives at Sea (T) (R) | 10.0 News (T) Weather10.15 Star Trek: Strange New Worlds (T) New series.11.15 Star Trek: Strange New Worlds (T) Sci-fi prequel.12.25 Shop 3.0 Motorsport UK (T) (R)3.50 Unwind (T) | 10.0 Gogglebox (T) (R)11.0 Three Women (T)New series. Drama.12.15 Three Women (T)2.15Kitchen Nightmares USA (R)3.05 The Simpsons (R)4.50 Sunday Brunch (T) | 12.30 Cops (T) (R)12.55Motorway Cops: Catching America's Speeders (T)(R)1.55 Entertainment News on 5 (T)2.0 Cruise TV (T) (R)3.0 Secrets of the River Clyde (T) (R) | 10.0 David Bamber Remembers – My Night with Reg (T)10.15 My Night with Reg (T)12.0 Elmina's Kitchen (T)1.30 Kwame Kwei-Armah: This Cultural Life (T)2.0A Stitch in Time (T) | Channel 4

Today's television

📖 中文精读 ↗

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Today's television

BBC Two

BBC One

ITV1

5

David Bamber Remembers

– My Night with Reg,

BBC Four, 10pm

The actor discusses

Kevin Elyot's stage play

BBC Four

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Monday 5

BBC One

6.0 Breakfast (T) 9.30 Morning Live (T) 10.45 Crimewatch Live (T) 11.30 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R) 12.15 Bargain Hunt (T) 1.0 News (T) Weather 1.35 Regional News (T) 1.45 News (T) 2.0 Clean It, Fix It (T) (R) 2.30 Shift the Thrift (T) (R) 3.0 Escape to the Country (T) 3.45 Garden Rescue (T) 4.30 Bridge of Lies (T) 5.15 Pointless (T) 6.0 News (T) Weather 6.30 Regional News (T) Weather 6.55 Party Political Broadcast (T) (R) 7.0 The One Show (T) 7.30 EastEnders (T)

BBC Two

6.30 Bargain Hunt (T) (R) 7.15 Antiques Road Trip (T) (R) 8.0 Best of Weatherman Walking (8.30 Sign Zone: The Best of Weatherman Walking (T) (R) 9.0 News (T) 12.15 Politics Live (T) 1.0 Impossible 1.45 Unbeatable (T) (R) 2.30 The Boss 3.15 Beechgrove Repotted (T) (R) 3.30 The Great British Sewing Bee (T) (R) 4.30 Vintage Antiques Roadshow) 5.15 Flog It! (T) (R) 6.0 House of Games (T) 6.30 Strictly: It Takes Two (T) 7.0 Global Eye (T) 7.30 Mastermind (T) Quiz show.

9.0 Damilola: The Untold Story (T) Documentary looking at the murder of 10-year-old Damilola Taylor.

ITV1

6.0 Good Morning Britain (T) 9.30 Lorraine (T) 10.0 This Morning (T) 12.30 Loose Women (T) 1.30 News (T) Weather 1.55 Local News (T) Weather 2.0 Dickinson's Real Deal (T) (R) 3.0 Lingo (T) (R) 4.0 Deal or No Deal (T) (R) 5.0 The Chase (T) (R) Stephen, Rosemary, Georgie and Fionn take part. 6.0 Local News (T) 6.25 Party Political Broadcast (T) 6.30 News (T) Weather 7.30 Cooking with the Stars (T) New series. Emma Willis and Tom Allen return with the culinary contest.

6.30 The King of Queens (T) (R) 7.45 Everybody Loves Raymond (T) (R) 9.10 Frasier (T) (R) 11.10 American Pickers (12.05 News (T) 12.10 Renovation Nation (T) (R) 1.10 The Great House Giveaway (R) 2.10 Countdown (T) 3.0 A Place in the Sun (T) (R) 4.0 Help! We Bought a Village (T) 5.0 Four in a Bed (T) 5.30 Come Dine with Me 6.0 A New Life in the Sun: Where Are They Now? (T) (R) In France, Natalie and Andy have big expansion plans. 7.0 News (T)

Damilola: The Untold Story, BBC Two, 9pm Documentary shedding light on the murder of Damilola Taylor

6.0 Milkshake! 9.15 Jeremy Vine (T) 11.30 Storm & Alexis (T) 12.45 News (T) 12.50 Matt Allwright (T) 2.20 FILM Stalked by My Stepsister (John Burd, Logan Giese, 2023) (T) 4.0 Bargain-Loving Brits in the Sun (T) (R) 5.0 News (T) 6.0 Cornwall: A Year by the Sea (T) (R) Documentary exploring Cornwall as a thriving county all year round. 6.55 News (T) 7.0 Police Interceptors (T) (R) Units mobilise to stop a 185mph superbike. 7.55 News (T) Headlines.

8.0 Traffic Cops: Elite Squad One (T) New documentary series. An officer hunts for a car suspected of using cloned plates.

9.0 Michael Palin in the Philippines (T) Michael continues his travel adventure by exploring the island of Palawan.

BBC Four

7.0 Winter: Earth's Seasonal Secrets (T) Documentary exploring how various animals rise to the challenge of surviving winter, including caribou, stoats, snow monkeys and emperor penguins.

8.0 Art of France (T) Andrew Graham-Dixon examines the history of French art.

9.0 Mastermind: 1977 (T) Specialist subjects include Tiberius, the Vikings, and Ralph Vaughan Williams.

9.30 Call My Bluff (T) With Diane Keen, Ian Ogilvy, Nerys Hughes and Tim Rice.

10.0 Anita Brookner on Art: 100 Great Paintings (T)

10.55 Leonardo da Vinci (T)

12.45 Ancient Worlds (T) 1.45

Winter: Earth's Seasonal Secrets (T) 2.45 Art of France (T) Documentary.

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Tuesday 6

BBC One

BBC Two

ITV1

Channel 4

Bel, BBC Four, 10pm

A tribute to Beldina

Odenyo, the Kenyan-born

Scottish singer-songwriter

who died in 2021 | 6.0 Breakfast (T) 9.30 Morning Live (T)10.45 Crimewatch Live (T)11.30 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R)12.15 Bargain Hunt (T) (R)1.0 News (T) Weather1.35 Regional News (T) Weather1.45 News (T) Weather2.0 Clean It, Fix It (T) (R)2.30 Shift the Thrift (T) (R)3.0 Escape to the Country (T)3.45 Garden Rescue (T) (R)4.30 Bridge of Lies (T)5.15 Pointless (T)6.0 News (T) Weather6.30 Regional News (T) Weather7.0 The One Show (T)7.30 EastEnders (T) | 6.15 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R)7.15 Bargain Hunt (T) (R)8.0 Sign Zone: Mastermind (T) (R)9.0 News (T)12.15 Politics Live (T)1.0 Impossible (T) (R)1.45 Unbeatable (T) (R)2.30 The Boss (T) (R)3.15 Beechgrove Repotted (T) (R)3.30 The Great British Sewing Bee (T) (R)4.30 Vintage Antiques Roadshow (T) (R)5.15 Flog It! (T) (R)6.0 House of Games (T)6.30 Strictly: It Takes Two (T)7.0 Villages by the Sea (T) (R) The history of Almouth. | 6.0 Good Morning Britain (T)9.30 Lorraine (T)10.0 This Morning (T)12.30 Loose Women (T)1.30 News (T)Weather1.55 Local News (T)Weather2.0 Dickinson's Real Deal (T) (R)3.0 Lingo (T) (R)4.0 Deal or No Deal (T) (R)Jemma takes her turn opening the boxes.5.0 The Chase (T) (R) Lynn from Barnstable, Phoebe from London, Greg from Caithness and Tim from Burton-upon-Trent take on one of the ruthless Chasers.6.0 Local News (T)Weather6.30 News (T) | 6.30 The King of Queens (T) (R)7.45 Everybody Loves Raymond (T) (R)9.10 Frasier (T) (R)11.10 American Pickers (T)(R)12.05 News (T)12.10 Renovation Nation (T)(R)1.10 The Great House Giveaway (T) (R)2.10 Countdown (T)3.0 A Place in the Sun (T) (R)4.0 Help! We Bought a Village (T)5.0 Four in a Bed (T)5.30 Come Dine with Me (T) (R)6.0 A New Life in the Sun: Where Are They Now? (T)(R) Cliff has a new business partner.7.0 News (T) | 6.0 Milkshake! 9.15 Jeremy Vine (T)11.30 Storm & Alexis (T)12.45 News (T)12.50 Matt Allwright (T)2.20 FILM If I Can't Have You (David DeCoteau, 2023) (T) Mystery starring Bailey Kai.4.0 Bargain-Loving Brits in the Sun (T) (R)5.0 News (T)6.0 Cornwall: A Year by the Sea (T) (R) Cameras focus on professional surfer Sam.6.55 News (T)7.0 Tesco: How Do They Really Do It?(T) (R) Behind the scenes at the giant supermarket chain.7.55 News (T) | 8.0 DIY SOS (T) The team helps a deaf couple in Southampton.9.0 Blue Lights (T) In the wake of the attack on Amira, Grace's determination puts her in danger, while Mo spirals further - with violent consequences. Belfast-set drama starring Siân Brooke. | 7.30 Live International Football (T) Scotland v Slovenia (kick-off 7.45pm). All the action from the Uefa Nations League group B1 match, held at Hampden Park. The teams drew 0-0 in Ljubljana before each taking on Switzerland and North Macedonia. | 7.0 Uefa Nations League Live (T) England v Czechia (kick-off 7.45pm). Mark Pougatch presents all the action from both teams' fourth group A3 match, held at Wembley Stadium. These teams also met seven days ago in Prague, England winning 2-0. | 8.0 The Great British Bake Off (T) The bakers face a series of challenges chosen by the viewers, including a signature that sees an invasion of familiar faces.9.30 Tempting Fortune (T)A divide forms when some of the players splash out on a luxury spa break. | 8.0 Motorway Cops: Catching Britain's Speeders (T) New series. PC Chris Bagnall joins an operation to catch illegal off-road bikes.9.0 Surgeons: A Matter of Life or Death (T) (R) Surgeons must remove a tumour sitting between the two sides of a patient's brain. | 8.0 To the Manor Born (T) A tramp pays his annual visit.8.30 Keeping Up Appearances (T) Sitcom. Hyacinth dons a fancy-dress outfit.9.0 Henry VIII's Enforcer: The Rise and Fall of Thomas Cromwell (T) A profile of the 16th-century lawyer and statesman. | 10.0 News (T)10.30 Regional News (T) Weather10.40 FILM Bram Stoker's Dracula (Francis Ford Coppola, 1992) (T) Horror.12.40 Weather for the Week Ahead (T)12.45 News (T) | 10.0 QI (T) (R) With Jo Brand.10.30 Newsnight (T) Weather11.05 The Misadventures of Romesh Ranganathan (R)12.05 FILM Here Before (Stacey Gregg, 2022) (T) Thriller.1.25 Sign Zone (T) (R) | 10.05 News (T) Local News10.50 Murder at the Grand Canal: True Crime (T) (R)11.45 British Touring Car Championship Highlights1.0 Shop on TV 3.0 Wonders of the Frozen South (T) (R) | 10.35 The Great British Bake Off: Second Helpings (T)11.20 Taskmaster (T) (R)12.20 Kitchen Nightmares USA (T) (R)1.10 The Great Celebrity Pottery Throw Down (T) (R) Contest. | 10.30 The Hospital: Life on the Line (T) (R) Documentary.11.30 Casualty 24/7: Every Second Counts (T) (R)12.35 Cops (T) (R)1.0 Cruise TV (T) (R)2.0 Cornwall: A Year by the Sea (T) (R) | 10.0 Bel (T) A tribute to singer Beldina Odenyo.11.30 The Lost World of Tibet (T)12.30 Secrets of Bones (T)1.0 Anita Brookner on Art: 100 Great Paintings (T)1.55 The Lost World of Tibet (T) | BBC Four

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Wednesday 7

BBC One

6.0 Breakfast (T) 9.30 Morning Live (T) 10.45 Crimewatch Live (T) 11.30 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R) 12.15 Bargain Hunt (T) (R) 1.0 News (T) Weather 1.35 Regional News (T) Weather 1.45 News (T) Weather 2.0 Clean It, Fix It (T) (R) 2.30 Shift the Thrift (T) (R) 3.0 Escape to the Country (T) (R) 3.45 Garden Rescue (T) 4.30 Bridge of Lies (T) 5.15 Pointless (T) Quiz. 6.0 News (T) Headlines. Weather 6.30 Regional News (T) Weather 7.0 The One Show (T) 7.30 EastEnders (T)

BBC Two

6.15 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R) 7.15 Escape to the Country (R) 8.0 Reluctant Vampire (T) (R) 8.30 Weatherman Walking (T) 9.0 News (T) 10.45 Politics Live 12.30 News (T) 1.0 Impossible 1.45 Unbeatable (T) (R) 2.30 The Boss (T) (R) 3.15 Beechgrove Repotted (T) (R) 3.30 The Great British Sewing Bee (T) (R) 4.30 Vintage Antiques Roadshow (T) (R) 5.05 Flog It! (T) (R) 6.0 House of Games (T) 6.30 Strictly: It Takes Two (T) 7.0 Celebrity Antiques Road Trip (T) (R)

8.0 Saving Lives at Sea (T)

A 999 call comes in from a distressed woman whose husband is drifting out to sea on a paddleboard.

ITV1

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Channel 4

6.30 The King of Queens

(T) (R) 7.45 Everybody

Loves Raymond (T) (R)

9.10 Frasier (T) (R) 11.10

American Pickers (T)

(R) 12.05 News (T) 12.10

Renovation Nation (T)

(R) 1.10 The Great House

Giveaway (T) (R) 2.10

Countdown (T) 3.0 A Place

in the Sun (T) (R) 4.0 Help!

We Bought a Village (T) 5.0

Four in a Bed (T) 5.30 Come

Dine with Me (T) (R) Barber

Natalia plans a 90s-themed

evening. 6.0 A New Life in

the Sun: Where Are They

Now? (T) (R) 7.0 News (T)

10.0 Martin Compston: Living Las Vegas 11.05 Gogglebox (R) 12.05 Great British Bake Off (R) 1.30 Taskmaster (T) (R) 2.25 FLM Mikka Bannada Hakki (2024) (T) 3.50 Sunday Brunch (T) (R)

Echoes from Below: Exploring Britain's Caves, BBC Four, 8pm David Clarke takes a look at what lies beneath

BBC Four

7.0 Secrets of Bones (T)

Ben Garrod explores how skeletons have adapted to allow vertebrates to move on land in different ways.

7.30 Timothy Spall Back at Sea (T) From Whitehaven to Portpatrick near Stranraer.

8.0 Echoes from Below: Exploring Britain's Caves (T) The importance of caves in British history.

8.50 Building Sights (T) Artist Derek Jarman returns to his former art master's house.

9.0 The Human Body: Secrets of Your Life Revealed (T) Last in the series.

10.0 Schmoedipus: Play for Today 11.10 Wild Swimming (T) 12.10 Bullets, Boots and Bandages: How to Really Win at War (T) 1.10 Secrets of Bones (T) 1.40 Timothy Spall Back at Sea (T) | 6.0 Breakfast (T) 9.30 Morning Live (T)10.45 Crimewatch Live (T)11.30 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R)12.15 Bargain Hunt (T)1.0 News (T) Weather1.35 Regional News (T) Weather1.45 News (T) Weather2.0 Sister Boniface Mysteries (T)2.45 Escape to the Country (T) (R)3.45 Garden Rescue (T)4.30 Celebrity Bridge of Lies (T) (R)5.15 Pointless (T) (R)6.0 News (T) Weather6.30 Regional News (T) Weather7.0 The One Show (T)7.30 Would I Lie to You? (T) (R) | 6.40 Escape to the Country (T)(R)7.25 Garden Rescue (T)(R)8.10 The Great House Revival (T) (R)9.0 News (T)12.20 Political Thinking (T)12.50 Lifeline (T) (R)1.0 Impossible (T) (R)1.45 Unbeatable (T) (R)2.30 The Boss (T) (R)3.15 The Wonder of Animals (T)(R)3.45 The Great House Revival (T) (R)4.35 Vintage Antiques Roadshow (T)(R)5.15 Flog It! (T) (R)6.0 House of Games (T)6.30 Strictly: It Takes Two (T)7.0 Newsnight (T) Weather7.30 Landward (T) | 6.0 Good Morning Britain (T)9.30 Lorraine (T)10.0 This Morning (T)12.30 News (T) Weather12.50 Local News (T) Weather1.0 ITV Racing: Live from Newmarket (T) Coverage from Newmarket, York and Chepstow.4.0 Deal or No Deal (T) (R)5.0 Women's European Qualifier (T) Greece v England (kick-off 5.30pm). Coverage of the first leg of the FIFA World Cup qualifying play-off semi-final, held at Pankritio Stadium in Heraklion.7.50 News (T) Weather | 6.30 The King of Queens(T) (R)7.45 Everybody Loves Raymond (T) (R)9.10 Frasier (T) (R)11.10 American Pickers (T)(R)12.05 News (T)12.10 Renovation Nation (T)(R)1.10 The Great House Giveaway (T) (R)2.10 Countdown (T)3.0 A Place in the Sun (T) (R)4.0 Help! We Bought a Village (T)5.0 Four in a Bed (T)5.30 Come Dine with Me (T) (R)6.0 A Place in the Sun (T) (R)6.30 Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix Sprint Qualifying Highlights (T)7.0 News (T) | 6.0 Milkshake!9.15 Jeremy Vine (T)11.30 Storm & Alexis (T)12.45 News (T)12.50 Matt Allwright (T)2.20 FILM No Safe Haven (Meeshelle Neal, 2023)(T) Thriller starring Natalie Brown.4.0 Bargain-Loving Brits in the Sun (T) (R)5.0 News (T)6.0 Cornwall: A Year by the Sea (T) (R)Cameras explore one of Britain's most captivating counties.6.55 News (T)7.0 Angela Rippon's River Cruises (T) (R) A trip along the Mekong. Last in the series.7.55 News (T) | 7.0 TOTP: 2000 Featuring Madison Avenue, Lonestar, the Charlatans, DJ Luck & MC Neat, and more.7.30 TOTP: 2000 Featuring songs by Billie Piper, Bon Jovi, Sia, Belle & Sebastian and Chrissie Hynde. | 8.0 The Celebrity Traitors (T) A new day brings suspicions amongst the Faithful.9.05 The Celebrity Traitors: Uncloaked (T) Ed Gamble and guests analyse the latest developments.9.30 Have I Got News for You (T)Celebrity guests join in the fun on the satirical quiz. | 8.0 Gardeners' World (T) Monty Don prunes roses, stores apples and plants spring cabbages.9.0 Six Wives with Lucy Worsley (T) (R) A mix of documentary and drama charting key moments in the lives of Henry VIII's wives. | 8.0 Emmerdale (T) The funeral takes place. Meanwhile, a discovery is made.8.30 Coronation Street (T) Lisa decides to question David about the shooting.9.0 Beat the Chasers (T) (R)Jessica, Liaqat, Stephanie, Jamie and Joanne take on the team of Chasers. | 8.0 George Clarke's Amazing Spaces: First Home (T)George discovers a unique floating home made from a shipping container, and homes in the Netherlands. Last in the series.9.05 Gogglebox (T) The households' opinions on recent television shows. | 8.0 Our Great Yorkshire Life (T) Peter Wright joins Leeds Rowing Club on the Aire and Calder Canal, and wildlife artist Robert Fuller helps orphaned tawny owl chicks join a family.9.05 Play for Today: Closing Time (T) Starring Antonio Aakeel and Ellora Torchia. | 8.0 TOTP: 1977 (T) Chart hits from Deniece Williams and Steve Gibbons Band.8.30 TOTP: 1984 (T) An edition from 11 October featuring Kim Wilde, Sade and Wham!9.10 The Genius of Funk (T)Featuring a compilation of performances from the BBC archives. | 10.0 News (T)10.30 Regional News (T) Weather10.40 The Graham Norton Show (T) With Olivia Colman.11.30 RuPaul's Drag Race UK (T)(R) The queens take on a holiday novelty pop song. | 10.0 FILM Longlegs (Osgood Perkins, 2024) (T)11.35 FILM The Awakening (Nick Murphy, 2011) (T) Horror.1.20 Sign Zone: Panorama: Cancer Before 50: Why Is It Rising? (T) (R) | 10.0 News (T) Weather10.30 Local News (T) Weather10.45 FILM GoldenEye (Martin Campbell, 1995) (T)Starring Pierce Brosnan.1.15 Shop 3.0 Long Lost Family (T) (R)3.50 Unwind (T) | 10.05 Live from the Lycett Arms (T) Joe Lycett presents.11.10 FILM American Pie: The Wedding (Jesse Dylan, 2003) (T) Comedy sequel.1.0 Break Clause (T) (R)1.30 Break Clause (T) (R) | 10.05 Piers Morgan: Uncensored (T) Opinion-led news show.12.05 Traffic Cops: Elite Squad One (T) (R)1.0 Cruise TV with LoveitBookit (T) (R)2.0 Cornwall: A Year by the Sea (T) (R) Documentary. | 10.10 Cymande at Glastonbury 2025 (T) Performances.10.40 Getting It Back: The Story of Cymande (T)12.10 Black British Music at the BBC: Volume 1 (T)2.35 TOTP: 1977 (T) Pop hits. |

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Thursday 8

BBC One

Small Achievable

Goals, ITVX

Jennifer Whalen stars

in this sitcom about two

very different women

Channel 4

BBC Four | 6.0 Breakfast (T) 9.30 Morning Live (T)10.45 Crimewatch Live (T)11.15 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R)12.15 Bargain Hunt (T) (R)1.0 News (T) Weather1.35 Regional News (T) Weather1.45 News (T) Weather2.0 Clean It, Fix It (T) (R)2.30 Shift the Thrift (T) (R)3.0 Escape to the Country (T) (R)3.45 Garden Rescue (T) (R)4.30 Bridge of Lies (T)5.15 Pointless (T)6.0 News (T) Weather6.30 Regional News (T) Weather7.0 The One Show (T)7.30 EastEnders (T) | 6.30 Bridge of Lies (T) (R)7.15 Garden Rescue (T) (R)8.0 The Best of Weatherman Walking (T) (R)8.30 The Best of Weatherman Walking (T) (R)9.0 News (T)12.15 Politics Live (T)1.0 Impossible (T) (R)1.45 Unbeatable (T) (R)2.30 The Boss (T) (R)3.15 The Wonder of Animals (T) (R)3.45 The Great House Revival (T) (R)4.35 Vintage Antiques Roadshow (T) (R)5.15 Flog It! (T) (R)6.0 House of Games (T)6.30 Strictly: It Takes Two (T)7.0 Escape to the Country (T) (R) | 6.0 Good Morning Britain (T)9.30 Lorraine (T)10.0 This Morning (T)12.30 Loose Women (T)1.30 News (T)Weather1.55 Local News (T)Weather2.0 Dickinson's Real Deal (T) (R)3.0 Lingo (T) (R)4.0 Deal or No Deal (T) (R)5.0 The Chase (T) (R) Campbell, Pamela, Hank and Rosie take part.6.0 Local News (T) Weather6.30 News (T) Weather7.30 Tonight: Buyer Beware: Retirement Properties (T) Richard Gaisford investigates leasehold retirement properties. | 6.30 The King of Queens (T) (R)7.45 Everybody Loves Raymond (T) (R)9.10 Frasier (T) (R)11.10 American Pickers (T) (R)12.05 News (T)12.10 Renovation Nation (T) (R)1.10 The Great House Giveaway (T) (R)2.10 Countdown (T)3.0 A Place in the Sun (T) (R)4.0 Help! We Bought a Village (T)5.0 Four in a Bed (T)5.30 Come Dine with Me (T) (R)6.0 A New Life in the Sun: Where Are They Now? (T) (R) In Montboyer in Charente.7.0 News (T) Latest headlines. | 6.0 Milkshake! 9.15 Jeremy Vine (T)11.30 Storm & Alexis (T)12.45 News (T)12.50 Matt Allwright (T)2.20 FILM Run, Hide, Escape (John Murlowski, 2023) (T) Thriller starring Kayla Fields.4.0 Bargain-Loving Brits in the Sun (T) (R)5.0 News (T)6.0 Cornwall: A Year by the Sea (T) (R) Veryan and Richard make sure the Headland is as festive as possible.6.55 News (T)7.0 Sam & Ade Go Birding (T) The duo explores Wales during breeding season.7.55 News (T) | 7.0 World War II: A Timewatch Guide (T) Saul David charts the history of the Second World War and examines how our understanding of events has changed. Last in the series. | 8.0 The Celebrity Traitors (T) The first banishment.9.05 The Celebrity Traitors: Uncloaked (T) Ed Gamble and assorted guests analyse the latest developments in the castle.9.30 Not Going Out (T) Lee mistakenly believes his hero is now his best friend. | 8.0 Monty Don's British Gardens (T) (R) The presenter travels around the UK to learn what gardens can reveal about the country's people, climate and history.9.0 Surgeons: At the Edge of Life (T) (R) Experts remove a life-threatening tumour. | 8.0 Emmerdale (T) Jacob and Sarah make a decision and Billy offers to visit Gabby.8.30 Coronation Street (T) Shona and Jodie's feud reaches breaking point.9.0 Long Lost Family (T) (R) Both stories in this episode celebrate the bond between brothers. | 8.0 Our Tiny Islands (T) (R) The custodians of Station Island, on Co Donegal's Lough Derg, welcome over 10,000 people each year for a three-day pilgrimage without food or shoes.9.05 Taskmaster (T) The contestants face the baffling Gregulator. | 8.0 The Yorkshire Vet (T) Shona Searson examines a Highland cow, and Julian Norton rides with huskies.9.0 Love Nature (T) Focusing on Sutton Park in Birmingham.9.05 All Creatures Great and Small (T) James and Siegfried attempt risky surgery on a cow. | 8.0 FILM The Bridge at Remagen (John Guillermin, 1969) (T) Second World War adventure starring George Segal.9.55 FILM The Wicker Man (Robin Hardy, 1973) (T) Classic horror starring Edward Woodward. | 10.0 News (T) Latest headlines.10.30 Regional News (T) Weather10.40 Question Time (T)11.40 Newscast (T)12.10 The Repair Shop: Beyond the Barn (T) (R)1.10 Weather (T)1.15 News (T) | 10.0 Live at the Apollo (T) (R)10.30 Newsnight (T) Weather11.05 Uncanny (T) (R)12.05 FILM Medusa Deluxe (Thomas Hardiman, 2022) (T)1.40 The Split Up (T) (R)2.40 Blue Lights (T) (R) | 10.0 News (T) Weather10.30 Local News (T) Weather10.45 FILM The Last Samurai (Edward Zwick, 2003) (T)1.10 Shop on TV 3.0 The Chase Around the World (T) (R)3.50 Unwind with ITV (T) | 10.05 Break Clause (T)10.35 Break Clause (T)11.10 Gogglebox (T) (R)12.10 Pierre (T) (R)1.0 Three Women (T)1.55 Kitchen Nightmares USA (T) (R)2.45 Tempting Fortune (T) | 10.0 All Creatures Great and Small: Behind the Scenes (R)10.0 Alexander Armstrong in India (T) (R) Documentary.11.05 999: Killer on the Line (T)12.05 Fatal First Dates (T)1.0 Cruise TV (T) (R) | 11.25 Ex-S: The Wicker Man (T)11.55 Timeshift: Of Ice and Men (T) A study of Antarctica.12.55 Ancient Worlds (T)1.55 Ex-S: The Wicker Man (T)2.25 World War II: A Timewatch Guide (T) |

[Friday 9] Channel 4

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[Friday 9] Channel 4

Play for Today: Closing Time, 5, 9.05pm

Love blooms for Laila (Ellora Torchia) during a visit to a kebab shop

BBC Four

[Saturday 10] BBC One

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[Saturday 10] BBC One

Buckingham Palace: A Year in the Life, 5, 8.35pm

The last in the series looking at the historic royal residence

6.0 Breakfast (T) 10.0 Saturday Kitchen Live (T) 11.30 Mary at 90: A Lifetime of Cooking (T) (R) 12.0 Bargain Hunt (T) (R) 12.45 The Football Interview (T) 1.0 News (T) 1.10 Weather (T) 1.15 Money for Nothing (T) (R) 2.0 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R) 3.0 Escape to the Country (T) (R) 3.45 Final Score (T) 5.10 News (T) 5.20 Regional News (T) Weather 5.25 Weather (T) 5.30 The Celebrity Inner Circle (T) 6.15 Strictly Come Dancing (T) The celebrities perform once more.

9.20 Marble Hall Murders (T)

Crime drama. Susan digs deeper into the Crace estate with a visit to Eliot's uncle Jonathan. Atticus and Achilles track Elmer Waysmith's movements.

10.10 News (T)

10.25 Weather (T)

10.30 Match of the Day (T)

11.50 FILM Bones and All (Luca Guadagnino, 2022) (T)

1.55 Weather for the Week Ahead (T) 2.0 News (T)

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BBC Two

6.05 Childrens programmes

8.45 Gardeners' World (T)

(R) 9.45 This Wild Life (T)

(R) 10.15 FILM A Matter of

Life and Death (1946) (T)

12.0 Marcus Wareing's Tales

from a Kitchen Garden (T)

(R) 12.30 Nadiya's Everyday

Baking (T) (R) 1.0 Natural

World: Victoria Falls – The

Smoke That Thunders

(T) (R) 1.50 FILM Emma

(Autumn de Wilde, 2020)

(T) 3.45 Flog It! (T) (R) 4.25

FILM Mosquito Squadron

(Boris Sagal, 1969) (T) 5.55

FILM The Great Escape

(John Sturges, 1963) (T)

8.40 Forty Hits of 1976 at the BBC (T) Featuring music from the likes of Thin Lizzy, Joan Armatrading, Dolly Parton, Wings, John Miles. Brotherhood of Man, the Wurzels, the Sex Pistols, Elton John and Kiki Dee, Cliff Richard, the Rolling Stones and Abba.

11.10 Abba at the BBC (T) (R)

Memorable TV appearances.

12.10 More Abba at the BBC (T)

(R) 1.10 Top of the Pops:

The Story of 1976 (T) (R)

1.55 FILM Brief History of a

Family (Lin Jianjie, 2024)

[ITV1] 6.0 James Martin's Islands

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[ITV1] 6.0 James Martin's Islands

James Martin's Islands to Highlands (T) (R) 6.30 Love Your Weekend with Alan Titchmarsh (T) (R) 8.25 Prue Leith's Cotswold Kitchen (T) 9.25 News (T) 9.30 James Martin's Saturday Morning (T) 12.0 Clodagh: Cooking at Home (T) 12.30 News (T) Weather 12.45 ITV Racing; Live from Newmarket (T) 4.0 FILM Jurassic Park III (2001) (T) 5.40 Celebrity Lingo (T) (R) 6.10 News (T) 6.30 The Chase Celebrity Special (T) (R) 7.30 Win Win (T) Interactive quiz show.

8.35 The Voice UK (T) Emma Willis hosts the battle rounds, with coaches putting their teams through the toughest challenge yet.

9.45 Romesh Ranganathan's Parents' Evening (T) (R)

Larry Lamb, Motsi Mabuse and Josh Widdicombe and their relatives take part.

10.45 News (T) Weather 11.05 English Football League Highlights (T)

📖 中文精读 ↗

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10.45 News (T) Weather 11.05 English Football League Highlights (T)

12.35 Shop on TV 3.0 Dermot's Taste of Ireland 3.25 Clodagh: Cooking at Home (T) (R) 3.50 Unwind (T)

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Channel 4

6.15 Cheers (T) (R) 8.05

Everybody Loves Raymond (T) (R) 10.05 Frasier (T) (R)

11.35 The Simpsons (T) (R)

12.35 Four in a Bed (T) (R)

3.10 A Place in the Sun (T)

(R) 3.55 The Great British Bake Off (T) (R) 5.30 News (T) 6.0 Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix Sprint Race And Qualifying Highlights (T) Action from the 17th round of the season at Marina Bay Street Circuit, as the drivers battle for points in the sprint race before jostling for starting positions for tomorrow.

7.30 FILM A Few Good Men (Rob Reiner, 1992) (T) Courtroom drama starring Tom Cruise and Jack Nicholson. Three US Navy lawyers uncover corruption leading to a top-ranking officer during the defence of two marines accused of murder.

10.0 FILM Poor Things (Yorgos Lanthimos, 2023) (T)

📖 中文精读 ↗

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10.0 FILM Poor Things (Yorgos Lanthimos, 2023) (T)

12.40 Ramsay's Hotel Hell (T) (R)

1.30 Three Women (T) 2.30

The Simpsons (T) (R) 5.0

Sunday Brunch (T) (R) 5.05

Kirstie's House of Craft (R)

6.0 Milkshake! 9.0

📖 中文精读 ↗

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6.0 Milkshake! 9.0

Entertainment News on 5 (T) 9.05 The Queen Mary: Royals at Sea (T) (R) 10.0 Inside Hampton Court Palace (T) (R) 11.0 Inside Hampton Court Palace (T) (R) 1.0 The Royals Uncensored (T) 2.0 Spain with Michael Portillo (T) (R) 3.0 Spain with Michael Portillo (T) (R) 4.0 Ben Fogle and the Buried City (T) (R) 5.30 The Two Ronnies: The Lost Sketches (T) (R) Comedy. 6.55 News (T) 7.0 Porridge: 50 Years of Laughs (T) (R)

8.35 Buckingham Palace: A Year in the Life (T) Fly-on-the-wall documentary series. The royal residence prepares for a busy autumn season of state visits, with staff planning everything from royal guest suites to banquet menus. Last in the series.

10.05 FILM The Firm (Sydney Pollack, 1993) (T)

📖 中文精读 ↗

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10.05 FILM The Firm (Sydney Pollack, 1993) (T)

1.0 Must Have Ideas (T) 3.0 Inside Hampton Court Palace (T) (R) 4.35 Spain with Michael Portillo 5.20 Entertainment News (T)

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BBC Four

7.0 Simon King's Shetland Adventure (T) The wildlife cameraman films gannets diving for fish, observes a pod of killer whales, and follows an otter family's separation. Last in the documentary series.

8.0 Pangolins – The World's Most Wanted Animal (T)

A look at efforts to save the world's most illegally trafficked animal.

9.0 FILM The Arctic Convoy (Henrik Martin Dahlsbakken, 2023) Drama with Anders Baasmo Christiansen. In Norwegian.

10.40 To the Manor Born (T)

Guest starring Bill Travers.

11.15 Keeping Up Appearances

11.45 Timeshift: The Rules of Drinking (T)

12.45 Simon King's Shetland Adventure (T)

[On the radio | Sunday] Radio 3

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[On the radio | Sunday] Radio 3

6.30am Breakfast 9.0 Sunday Morning 12.0 Private Passions 1.30 Music Map 3.0 In Concert: Steve Reich at 90 4.30 In Concert: Steve Reich at 90 6.0 In Concert: Steve Reich at 90 8.30 Sunday Feature: It's Gonna Rain 9.15 Brass Banding with Hannah Peel 10.15 Night Tracks 11.30 Unclassified 12.30 Through the Night

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Radio 4

6.0am News Headlines 6.05

Beyond Belief 6.35 On Your Farm

7.0 News; Sunday Papers 7.10

Sunday 7.54 Radio 4 Appeal

8.0 News; Sunday Papers 8.10

Sunday Worship 8.48 Witness History 8.58 Tweet of the Day 9.0

Broadcasting House 10.0 Desert Island Discs 11.0 The Archers

12.15 Profile 12.30 Unspeakable

1.0 The World This Weekend 1.30 America's Gerrymandering Arms Race 2.0 Gardeners' Question Time 2.45 Ten Second Showdown

3.0 Drama: The Soldier's Return

4.0 Bookclub 4.30 Brain of Britain

5.0 Witness History 5.10 The Verb 5.54 Shipping Forecast 6.0

Six O'Clock News 6.15 Pick of the Week 7.0 The Archers 7.15 Third Man Syndrome 7.45 Thief at the British Museum 8.0 Word of Mouth 8.30 Last Word 9.0 Money Box 9.26 Radio 4 Appeal 9.30 From Our Own Correspondent

10.0 The Westminster Hour 11.0 In Our Time 11.45 Short Works 12.0 News and Weather 12.15 Crossing Continents 12.45 Bells on Sunday

12.48 Shipping Forecast 1.0 As BBC World Service 5.0 News Summary 5.04 Last Word 5.34 Shipping Forecast 5.43 Prayer for the Day 5.45 Farming Today

[Monday] Radio 3

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[Monday] Radio 3

6.30am Breakfast 9.30 Essential Classics 1.0 Classical Live 4.0 Composer of the Week: The Venetian School 5.0 In Tune 7.0 Classical Mixtape 7.30 In Concert 9.45 The Essay: Towards Evensong 10.0 Night Tracks 11.30 'Round Midnight 12.30 Through the Night

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Radio 4

6.0am Today 9.0 Start the Week 9.45 Café Hope 10.0 Woman's Hour 11.0 Another Country with James Rebanks 11.45 To Go or Not to Go 12.0 News 12.04 You and Yours 1.0 The World 1.45 The Turning Point 2.0 The Archers 2.15 Whatever Happened to Baby Jane Austen? 2.45 Faith, Hope and Glory 3.0 Great Lives 3.30 Curious Cases 4.0 America's Gerrymandering Arms Race 4.30 Rewinder 5.0 PM 6.0 Six O'Clock News 6.30 Unspeakable 7.0 The Archers 7.15 Front Row 8.0 Rethink 8.30 BBC Inside Science 9.0 Start the Week 9.45 Café Hope 10.0 The World Tonight 10.45 Book at Bedtime: Stations 11.0 Cobalt 11.30 Great Lives 12.0 News and Weather 12.30 To Go or Not to Go 12.48 Shipping Forecast 1.0 As BBC World Service 5.0 News Summary. Headlines. 5.04 America's Gerrymandering Arms Race 5.34 Shipping Forecast 5.43 Prayer for the Day 5.45 Farming Today

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Radio 4

6.0am Today 9.0 Start the Week 9.45 Café Hope 10.0 Woman's Hour 11.0 Another Country with James Rebanks 11.45 To Go or Not to Go 12.0 News 12.04 You and Yours 1.0 The World 1.45 The Turning Point 2.0 The Archers 2.15 Whatever Happened to Baby Jane Austen? 2.45 Faith, Hope and Glory 3.0 Great Lives 3.30 Curious Cases 4.0 America's Gerrymandering Arms Race 4.30 Rewinder 5.0 PM 6.0 Six O'Clock News 6.30 Unspeakable 7.0 The Archers 7.15 Front Row 8.0 Rethink 8.30 BBC Inside Science 9.0 Start the Week 9.45 Café Hope 10.0 The World Tonight 10.45 Book at Bedtime: Stations 11.0 Cobalt 11.30 Great Lives 12.0 News and Weather 12.30 To Go or Not to Go 12.48 Shipping Forecast 1.0 As BBC World Service 5.0 News Summary. Headlines. 5.04 America's Gerrymandering Arms Race 5.34 Shipping Forecast 5.43 Prayer for the Day 5.45 Farming Today

[Tuesday] Radio 3

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[Tuesday] Radio 3

6.30am Breakfast 9.30 Essential Classics 1.0 Classical Live 4.0 Composer of the Week: The Venetian School 5.0 In Tune 7.0 Classical Mixtape 7.30 In Concert 9.45 The Essay: Towards Evensong

10.0 Night Tracks 11.30 'Round Midnight 12.30 Through the Night Radio 4

6.0am Today 9.0 The Life Scientific 9.30 All in the Mind 10.0 Woman's Hour 11.0 Screenshot 11.45 To Go or Not to Go 12.0 News 12.04 Call You and Yours 1.0 The World 1.45 The Turning Point 2.0 The Archers 2.15 Drama: A Place Called Home 3.0 History's Secret Heroes 3.30 Beyond Belief 4.0 Roleplay 4.30 What's Up Docs? 5.0 PM 6.0 Six O'Clock News 6.30 Geoff Norcott's Working Men's Club 7.0 The Archers 7.15 Front Row 8.0 File on 4 Investigates 8.40 In Touch 9.0 Third Man Syndrome 9.30 The Bottom Line 10.0 The World Tonight 10.45 Book at Bedtime: Stations 11.0 Half-Life 11.30 Great Lives 12.0 News and Weather 12.30 To Go or Not to Go 12.48 Shipping Forecast 1.0 As BBC World Service 5.0 News Summary 5.04 BBC Inside Science 5.34 Shipping Forecast 5.43 Prayer for the Day 5.45 Farming Today

[Wednesday] Radio 3

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[Wednesday] Radio 3

6.30am Breakfast 9.30 Essential Classics 1.0 Classical Live 3.0 Choral Evensong 4.0 Composer of the Week: The Venetian School 5.0 In Tune 7.0 Classical Mixtape 7.30 In Concert 9.45 The Essay: Towards Evensong 10.0 Night Tracks 11.30 'Round Midnight 12.30 Through the Night. Music mix.

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Radio 4

6.0am Today 9.0 More or Less 9.30 Where Is Austin Tice? 10.0 Woman's Hour 11.0 File on 4 Investigates 11.40 This Week in History 11.45 To Go or Not to Go 12.0 News 12.04 You and Yours

1.0 The World 1.45 The Turning Point 2.0 The Archers 2.15 Drama: A Place Called Home 3.0 Money Box 3.30 The Artificial Human 4.0 When It Hits the Fan 4.15 The Media Show 5.0 PM 6.0 Six O'Clock News 6.30 Glenn Moore's Almanac 7.0 The Archers 7.15 Front Row 8.0 Here for the History 8.30 Top Comment 9.0 The Life Scientific 9.30 All in the Mind 10.0 The World Tonight 10.45 Book at Bedtime: Stations 11.0 Kiri's Farm 11.15 Big Little Questions 11.30 Great Lives 12.0 News and Weather 12.30 To Go or Not to Go 12.48 Shipping Forecast 1.0 As BBC World Service 5.0 News Summary 5.04 More or Less 5.34 Shipping Forecast 5.43 Prayer for the Day 5.45 Farming Today

[Thursday] Radio 3

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[Thursday] Radio 3

6.30am Breakfast 9.30 Essential Classics 1.0 Classical Live 4.0 Composer of the Week: The Venetian School 5.0 In Tune 7.0 Classical Mixtape 7.30 In Concert 9.45 The Essay: Towards Evensong 10.0 Night Tracks 11.30 'Round Midnight 12.30 Through the Night

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Radio 4

6.0am Today 9.0 In Our Time

9.45 Strong Message Here 10.0

Woman's Hour 11.0 This Cultural

Life 11.45 To Go or Not to Go 12.0

News 12.04 The Bottom Line 12.32

Sliced Bread 1.0 The World 1.45

The Turning Point 2.0 The Archers

2.15 Drama: A Place Called Home

3.0 Ramblings 3.27 Radio 4 Appeal

3.30 Feedback 4.0 The Briefing

Room 4.30 BBC Inside Science

5.0 PM 6.0 Six O'Clock News 6.30

Do Gooders 7.0 The Archers 7.15

Front Row 8.0 When It Hits the Fan

8.15 The Media Show 9.0 Loose

Ends 9.45 Strong Message Here 10.0 The World Tonight 10.45 Book at Bedtime: Stations 11.0 Radical 11.30 Great Lives 12.0 News and Weather 12.30 To Go or Not to Go 12.48 Shipping Forecast 1.0 As BBC World Service 5.0 News Summary. The latest headlines. 5.04 The Briefing Room 5.34 Shipping Forecast 5.43 Prayer for the Day 5.45 Farming Today

[Friday] Radio 3

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[Friday] Radio 3

6.30am Breakfast 9.30 Essential Classics 1.0 Classical Live 4.0 Composer of the Week: The Venetian School 5.0 In Tune 7.0 Classical Mixtape 7.30 Friday Night Is Music Night 9.45 The Essay: Towards Evensong 10.0 Late Junction 11.30 'Round Midnight 12.30 Through the Night

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Radio 4

6.0am Today 9.0 Desert Island Discs 10.0 Woman's Hour 11.0 The Food Programme 11.45 To Go or Not to Go 12.0 News 12.04 AntiSocial 1.0 The World 1.45 The Turning Point 2.0 The Archers 2.15 Drama: Underground 2.45 When Banksy Comes to Town 3.0 Gardeners' Question Time 3.45 Short Works 4.0 Last Word 4.30 More or Less 5.0 PM 6.0 Six O'Clock News 6.30 The News Quiz 7.0 The Archers 7.15 Screenshot 8.0 Any Questions?. Alex Forsyth chairs the political forum in which an audience canvasses the opinions of four leading figures. 8.55 This Week in History 9.0 Free Thinking 10.0 The World Tonight 10.45 Book at Bedtime: Stations 11.0 Americast 11.30 Mr and Mrs Angadi 12.0 News and Weather 12.30 To Go or Not to Go 12.48 Shipping Forecast 1.0

As BBC World Service 5.30 News Summary 5.34 Shipping Forecast 5.43 Prayer for the Day 5.45 When Banksy Comes to Town

[Saturday] Radio 3

📖 中文精读 ↗

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[Saturday] Radio 3

6.30am Breakfast 9.0 Saturday Morning 12.0 Earlier... with Jools Holland 1.0 Key Changes: Radio 3's Essential History of Classical Music 2.0 Record Review 4.0 Sound of Cinema 5.0 This Classical Life 6.0 Opera on 3 9.30 Music Planet 10.30 New Music Show 12.30 Through the Night

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Radio 4

6.0am News and Papers 6.07 Ramblings 6.30 Farming Today This Week 7.0 Today 9.0 Saturday Live 10.0 Curious Cases 10.30 The Guitar Story 11.0 Radical 11.30 From Our Own Correspondent 12.0 News 12.04 Money Box 12.30 The News Quiz 1.0 News 1.10 Any Questions? 2.05 Any Answers? 2.45 The Archers 3.0 Drama: Lud-in-the-Mist 4.0 Weekend Woman's Hour 5.0 Saturday PM 5.30 Political Thinking with Nick Robinson 5.54 Shipping Forecast 6.0 Six O'Clock News 6.15 Loose Ends 7.0 Profile 7.15 This Cultural Life 8.0 Archive on 4: The Grateful Dead Are More Important Than the Beatles 9.0 The Hitler Diaries Scandal 10.0 News 10.15 The Food Programme 11.0 Your Mum 11.30 Brain of Britain. The 11th heat of the nationwide general knowledge contest, chaired by Russell Davies. 12.0 Midnight News 12.15 Bookclub. James Naughtie is joined by Daniel Mason. 12.48 Shipping Forecast 1.0 As BBC World Service 5.30 News Summary 5.34 Shipping Forecast 5.43 Bells on Sunday 5.45 In Touch

Roundtable twists even the producers can't predict

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Barbara Ellen

The Celebrity Traitors

BBC One

War

Sky Atlantic/Now

Presenter Claudia Winkleman returns to Ardross Castle for the second series of The Celebrity Traitors; above, Sienna Miller and Dominic West in War. BBC/Studio Lambert/Euan Cherry

The second series of The Celebrity Traitors, the ultimate psychological game of deception, is upon us – fluttering its cloaks, clustering in its turrets, unleashing its twists – and I must warn you of spoilers ahead.

For no one could watch the extended 75-minute opener and not find themselves howling one question at the moody skies above Ardross Castle in the Scottish Highlands: what in the name of Claudia Winkleman's oil spill fringe is Richard E Grant playing at?

After being anointed a Traitor at the roundtable – along with Love Island presenter Maya Jama – the Withnail and I actor went on to exultantly announce his status to the others. Broadcaster Amol Rajan labels Grant “the lord of chaos”. Comedian Rob Beckett observes: “You’ve just done something that’s never happened in the game.” Jama says: “It’s like having an unhinged uncle running wild in the castle.” Forced to pretend he was joking, Grant privately wonders if he’s made a “mistake”. Ya think?

A spin-off from The Traitors global franchise juggernaut, The Celebrity Traitors won the largest audience for the BBC last year, pulling in 15 million viewers for the final. Players included Jonathan Ross, Stephen Fry and Tom Daley, while certain moments (Celia Imrie's fart, Paloma Faith's enraged early exit, Traitor Alan Carr lurching and twitching to the win like a gameshow Iag

lurching and twitching to the win like a gameshow Iago) defined the zeitgeist.

This time, the starry 21-strong cast once again makes other reality shows resemble celebrity graveyards, and includes actors Michael Sheen, Bella Ramsey and Jerry Hall (“Beneath this dumb blondie lies a smart brunette”), musician James Blunt, and comedians Joe Lycett, Joanne McNally, James Acaster, Romesh Ranganathan and Miranda Hart. Interestingly, not everybody wishes to be a Traitor; it may be chicer to be a Faithful: “I’m dripping with prefect energy,” says Prof Hannah Fry.

Winkleman arrives by coffin (the series always delivers the gothic visuals), sporting an oversized cascading lace collar that seems automatically destined to become an internet meme (“You won’t believe what Little Lord Fauntleroy looks like now”, etc).

There's no avoiding the tedious mission (the fatal flaw of The Traitors) to build the £100,000 charity prize pot, and interminable nonsense with the players splashing about in the freezing cold loch near a pirate ship ("I was in half a mind to wee a little bit in my wetsuit just to warm it up," says Jama). It's at least enlivened by "TV hardman" presenter Ross Kemp erupting in paranoia when Ramsey pops a captain's hat on his head, and again later, when Leigh-Anne Pinnock of Little Mix rubs his arm – both

What in the

name of

Claudia

Winkleman's

oil spill fringe

is Richard

E Grant

playing at?

times convinced he's being murdered in plain sight.

The opener's big twist is that only two Traitors are selected by Winkleman, and Grant and Jama must choose another two: one to become the third Traitor, and the other to be murdered. The device has already been used in The Traitors Canada and – now airing in the US – The Traitors: New Blood, but who cares when it leads to a cliffhanger involving Rajan and Acaster begging for their lives (or is it their screentime?) in the show's candle-lit chapel?

The Celebrity Traitors works because, albeit coated in stardust, it retains the keynotes of the original: treachery, campery and dark impulses rebranded as light entertainment. Saying that, these may be dangerous times for the franchise: could this be when the format finally starts to creak, becoming too self-aware or complacent?

“came has absolutely no power here,” intones Winkleman, but is this true? Last time, there were moments when the castle crackled with underlying status anxiety, and you got the feeling the Faithfuls were wary of voting out “big dog” Ross. Must Grant now be banished to prove that the format shows no A-list mercy?

All shall be revealed. In the meantime, what a treat to have The Celebrity Traitors –

and, after it finishes, The Traitors – back to shine a swinging lantern into the coming winter gloom. What else can we all safely talk about without sparking a culture war meltdown? If The Celebrity Traitors didn't exist, it would have to be put on prescription for the nation's wellbeing,

On Sky Atlantic and Now, the shiny new legal drama War from George Kay (Hijack, Lupin) features tech bro Morgan, portrayed by Dominic West, and Hollywood actor Carla, played by Sienna Miller, as a couple embroiled in a high-octane “divorce case of the century”.

After receiving an award, Morgan has sex with a young woman (Rose Williams), who then turns out to be a honeytrap organised by Carla. The couple assemble divorce teams to do battle over the astronomical wealth generated by Morgan's ethical social media platform. He goes with an establishment firm led by a pair of shameless piranhas, portrayed by Pip Torrens and Nina Sosanya. Meanwhile, his wife hires relative newbies, played by James McArdle and Phoebe Fox, whose ambitious new hire, Johnny (Archie Renaux), harbours secrets that could detonate the case.

At its best, War tips buckets of ice-cold water over the hubris of great wealth and those who crave it. After offering a £1m watch to one male underling if he'll strip, Morgan withdraws the offer, then says wearily: "There are no lengths to which people won't go; there's nothing they won't do, to debase themselves, to humiliate themselves and you, if they think they can get a slice." Carla comes to life when she wryly toys with her glamorous persona ("I'm an actress – I know my lines"), and coolly spits out her displeasure, at Morgan, and at her lawyers.

War, which already has a second series in the pipeline, seems to be more about the legal firms, and as the eight episodes unfold, it sometimes loses Morgan and Carla in the mix and becomes overly soapy: a kind of The War of the Roses without enough thorns. It's better when West and Miller's star power is harnessed, leading to meditations on press intrusion, manipulative lawyers and the ethics of bitching and haggling over nosebleed sums. Do we care about these people? Probably not. But that doesn't stop it being interesting.

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WATCH LIST

Barbara Ellen's best of the rest

East of Eden

(Netflix)

Interpretation of John Steinbeck's 1952 novel, directed by Zoe Kazan, the granddaughter of original East of Eden film director Elia Kazan. After a slow start, there are vivid performances from Florence Pugh (below) and Christopher Abbott.

Winter

(ITV1)

Over-excited graphic

thriller in which

Richard Armitage

plays a Bristol-based

pathologist, who

likes to chat with the

corpses. A woman's

frozen body is

discovered.

Blue Lights

(BBC One)

Return of the

acclaimed Belfast-

police drama steeped

in raw political and

personal tensions.

Once again starring

Siân Brooke, Martin

McCann and

Katherine Devlin.

📄 查阅本期完整未切分外文原文 (Full Issue Raw Text)

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THE OBSERVER

Established 1791

ANDY BURNHAM'S VISION

The road

back from

Brexit

'Nobody was expecting this.'

How the prime minister astonished his closest colleagues on Europe

by Rachel Sylvester

Plus, The Observer view 'His opening to Europe has the potential to be historic'

#1

We are the UK's best brand for customer service.

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THE OBSERVER

Established 1791

ANDY BURNHAM'S VISION

The road

back from

Brexit

'Nobody was expecting this.'

How the prime minister astonished his closest colleagues on Europe

by Rachel Sylvester

Plus, The Observer view 'His opening to Europe has the potential to be historic'

#1

We are the UK's best brand for customer service.

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[THE OBSERVER VIEW | Road to joy] Andy Burnham's speech on Brexit and Europe could be historic, offering a chance to make the positive case for EU membership that was missed in 2016

H ope is in the air, because

finally a prime minister has

been honest about Brexit

For years now, a clear majority of British voters have been saying Brexit was a mistake. At last, politics is catching up.

Andy Burnham's speech to Labour last week will be remembered as bold on social care and electoral reform whether or not he finds the money and spends the political capital to turn his ideas into action. But his honesty on Brexit and his opening to Europe have the potential to be truly historic, for three reasons.

First, he showed he wasn't a prisoner of the red wall; that unlike Keir Starmer he isn't prepared to govern in fear of a rebellion by Labour Brexit voters. His promise of options for a new relationship with Europe before the EU-UK summit in November was an essential first step towards striking out Starmer's red lines against rejoining the EU single market or customs union. His confirmation the next day that these options could include going “all the way” was not vague or accidental. It was part of a plan to show he is not just thinking what was previously unthinkable but preparing for what is best for the country.

Second, European leaders saw this step for what it was and welcomed it. France's Emmanuel Macron called it “excellent news”. Pedro Sánchez said Spain would welcome Britain back “with open arms”. A European Commission spokesman said it was “open to engaging on the options [Britain] may put forward”.

Third, the Office for Budget Responsibility consistently projects that rejoining fully would yield substantially more in terms of GDP growth for the UK than any intermediate steps. A bid to rejoin is also far more likely to attract the attention of EU heads of government, as Macron and Sánchez have shown. Incremental resets like those sought by Starmer sit at the bottom of the European Commission's to-do list and anyway leave the UK a rule-taker.

This, then, is an opportunity to make the positive case for EU membership that neither David Cameron nor Jeremy Corbyn made in 2016. It rests on benefits and shared priorities: the benefits of frictionless trade with 500 million people, deeper food and energy security, targeted urban development aid, new vistas for students and scientists (not to mention musicians) and the freedom to live and work in 27 countries beside the UK. As for shared priorities, Europe's inheritance from the Second World War is a good start and it consists of peace, democracy, free markets and the rule of law.

Reasonable people will object that the EU in 2026 is too keen on regulation and too willing to put up with low single-digit growth while the US and East Asia saddle up on AI stallions to leave the old world in their dust. The EU is obviously flawed and has always been a work in progress. Rejoining has to be a practical mission, not an ideological one. Now, as in 2016, the argument should be for membership of a reformed bloc that shelves ever-closer union, accelerates the creation of a single market for financial services and enacts all of Mario

of a single market for financial services and enacts all of Mario Draghi's 2024 competitiveness agenda. That would speed up the rate the UK claws back the £100bn a year it has foregone by cutting itself adrift but it would also make the EU richer, stronger and more confident.

Ten years is a long time. Sceptics may say the rise of the European hard right in the past decade makes rejoining less tempting. But if they look beyond Europe's horizons they should see this as a reason to rejoin, not stay out. Reform, Restore, the AfD and France's National Rally are of a piece with Trumpism and Putinism. The EU is the world's best defence against the malice and misinformation on which they thrive. It needs and deserves Britain's support as much as Britain would benefit from membership.

years is long enough, too, for structural change in the electorate and for a country to change its mind. Nearly twice as many Brexiteers as Remainers have died since 2016, while among the newly enfranchised Rejoiners outnumber Brexiteers by five to one.

The UK had in fact changed its mind about Brexit well before

mind about Brexit well before Starmer entered Number 10, but he could not bring himself to acknowledge this or act on it. The failure of Brexit was an elephant in Downing Street. Burnham has done the country a great service in calling out the elephant and calling time on Starmer's incrementalism. Now he has to see it through, laying out the options as promised and making crystal clear which one is best for Britain. It is to rejoin.

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The lesson of Christa Pike

There is a solution to the horrifying spectacle of a botched execution.

Stop executing people.

The convicted murderer Christa Pike was alive but in critical condition yesterday after surviving two doses of supposedly lethal pentobarbital. The US supreme court had previously cleared

the way for her to become the first woman in more than 200 years to be put to death in Tennessee.

Death penalty opponents have seized on her case as more evidence of the barbarity of executions, which it is. Pike's lawyers say the execution team failed at least seven times to find a vein in her arm and showed "deliberate indifference to her basic medical needs": Part of the problem for US prison authorities is sourcing drugs that no respectable pharmaceutical company will supply for the purpose and expertise that no trained medic can offer without violating their vocation. But the bigger problem is that they are administering a punishment which doesn't work. Year in,

year out, murder rates are higher in the 27 US states that have the death penalty than in those that don't, according to the non-partisan Death Penalty Information Center. For every eight people on death row, one is exonerated. At least three innocent people have been executed since the supreme court reinstated the penalty in 1976, and at least 51 attempted executions by lethal injection have been botched since 1982.

State-wide death penalty moratoriums are on the rise and overall numbers of executions in the US have been falling steadily for quarter of a century. But it is still the only western democracy where the penalty is available to prosecutors, which should not be a source of pride.

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Unimportant

Overheard

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'I watch Air Crash Investigation'

Yaniv Hayun, who helped save a FlyDubai flight from disaster, on how he knew what to do to stop the plane crashing

The week in brief

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Widdecombe accused faces Farage charge

Joshua Kerry, who is accused of murdering Ann Widdecombe, was charged on Friday with preparing acts of terror against Nigel Farage. The charge relates to alleged terrorist activities between May 2024 and July 2026. Shabana Mahmood, the home secretary, said: “Let no one make any mistake: an attack on anyone in politics is an attack on us all.” Kerry was charged in July with the murder of Widdecombe, who was a Reform UK spokesperson. She died on 9 July at her home in Devon. Kerry is due to appear in court on Wednesday.

£112

A fire in a street in Aubervilliers, north-east of Paris, where students clashed with police in protests over school conditions. The government said more than 400 protesters, including children, were detained. Tom Nicholson/Getty Images

The price of Meghan Markle's new chocolate advent calendar

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Green party to vote on Zionism motion

Green party members are set to vote on the controversial motion “Zionism is racism” today at their conference in Brighton. If the motion passes, it will change official party policy. The motion says that “Zionism... will be treated as any other form of racism, and this motion will be implemented by the anti-racism policy working group as appropriate and in accordance with its ordinary practice”. Former MP Caroline Lucas said on the Today programme that she had “serious concerns” about the motion and would not support it. Leader Zack Polanski refused to set out his views but said he was “calling for an amendment” to specify that it would not be used to discipline Jewish members attending synagogues that consider themselves Zionist.

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Prisoners released early hard to track

Probation officers warned that they may struggle to keep track of the hundreds of prisoners released from jail last Thursday, many of whom will not have anywhere to live. About 2,000 criminals are set to be freed over the next month and another 3,000 in stages over the next year in an attempt to ease overcrowding. The Ministry of Justice says it is launching its biggest expansion of electronic monitoring – with the expectation that offenders leaving prison will be tagged and monitored. However, a new report said that only 55% of GPS tags were fitted on time.

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Government scraps judge-only trial plan

The lord chancellor Alex Norris announced that the proposal for some criminal trials to be heard by a judge alone has been dropped, meaning more serious cases will be heard by a jury. But defendants will lose the right to choose whether their case goes before a jury or a

magistrate. Complex fraud cases will still be heard by a judge and magistrates' sentencing powers will be increased to try to tackle the backlog of more than 80,000 cases. The changes will be made to the courts and tribunals bill when it returns to the Commons next week.

French pupils protest over state of schools Thousands of French teenagers protested outside their schools in

The Observer news matrix anger at overcrowded classrooms, unsanitary facilities and a shortage of teachers. More than 500 schools faced disruption on Friday as young people took to the streets. President Emmanuel Macron said he could “understand the anxiety, the anger” of protesting students, but that “none of these debates, none of these fears justifies violence”. The protests are set to grow, as trade unions have called for members to join a protest on 6 October, saying that “today’s students... must not pay the price of austerity policies”.

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Slim now, pay later: pharmacies warned about hard sell of diet pills

Retailers deny they are

breaking advertising

rules by marketing

weight-loss medication

and online services

Jon Ungoed-Thomas & Marine Saint

Sales of new diet pills that are part of the UK's multibillion pound obesity treatment industry are being promoted with “buy now, pay later” credit, discounted prices and loyalty points, despite a ban on advertising prescription medicines themselves.

Two brands of prescription weight-loss pills – Wegovy and Foundayo – manufactured by Novo Nordisk and Eli Lilly were approved for use earlier this year. The pills are on track to be blockbuster drugs and have triggered a marketing drive from pharmacy firms and weight-loss services.

It is illegal to publish an advertisement or promotional material in the UK that is likely to lead to the use of prescription-only medicine. The Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA) warned in June that drugs are not “ordinary consumer goods” and improper use may have serious health consequences.

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'Many promotions are inducing demand and would appear in breach of the law'

An Observer analysis of marketing of the authorised drugs has found promotions likely to result in increased uptake of the newly approved pills. The investigation has found:

\- The high street pharmacy Superdrug offers bonus points on its health and beautycard to customers wanting to buy Wegovy or Foundayo tablets.

\- Asda's online doctor service says patients can “get started” on Wegovy or Foundayo, with prices from £87.97 a month. It promotes credit with PayPal Pay in 3, which offers payment over three instalments.

  • The online chemist pharmacyonline.co.uk offers a deal on prescription drugs on the discount code website Groupon. The promotion says: “Up to £90 off the Wegovy pill. Only 7 days left.”

Major retailers say they are complying with all relevant regulations and are promoting their weight consultancy services, rather than prescription drugs. Campaigners are calling for tougher actions to prohibit the promotions of weight-loss drugs.

James Larkin, the Centre for Evidence and Values

“Many of these promotions are likely inducing demand for prescription drugs and, as such, would appear in breach of the law,” James Larkin, from the Centre for Evidence and Values, said. “There is a failure of regulation.”

A breach of the relevant regulation in the Human Medicines Regulations 2012 is a criminal offence, with possible penalties of unlimited fines and up to two years in prison.

One of the most high-profile campaigns that has generated complaints is an advert by the digital health platform Voy on London buses since late July 2026, and on Facebook, with the strapline “the weight is over” and the picture of a pill.

The ad is assumed to be promoting prescription weight-loss pills, but the small print in a disclaimer indicates the pill being advertised contains glucomannan, an over-the-counter weight-loss supplement. The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) confirmed this weekend it has launched a formal investigation into the ad, with a ruling expected shortly.

Online pharmacy Bolt Healthcare promotes weight-loss treatments with the strapline “The Wegovy pill is finally here”. It offers savings of £20 a month for subscribers choosing Wegovy or Foundayo pills. The promoted cost of prescription weight-loss pills on the website ranges from about £25 to £28 a week. Prescription weight-loss injections range from about £20 a week for Wegovy to about £38 a week for Mounjaro.

In 2025 and 2026, the ASA has upheld 27 rulings concerning the promotion of prescription-only obesity medicines, but none to date has involved Wegovy or Foundayo tablets. It has upheld complaints against pharmacyonline.co.uk; Medwell Ltd, trading as Voy; and Bolt Healthcare for promoting prescription weight-loss drugs.

The MHRA has acted against more than 50 firms in 2025 and 2026 for suspected breaches of promoting prescription weight-loss drugs, but typically the promotions were amended and no sanctions were imposed.

Ruth Micallef, an eating disorder specialist based in Edinburgh, said she had turned down offers to do paid ads relating to weight-loss medications. She found it “disturbing” that she had been approached, given she was providing support for people with eating disorders.

She said the marketing of prescription diet drugs in tablet form was a significant concern. “It will make it even more accessible,” she said. “We’ve already had patients injecting this stuff for a long time, often from the wrong places and the wrong people.”

Nic, a 54-year-old consumer advocate in Buckinghamshire, who takes the injectable weight-loss drug Mounjaro and asked for his surname not to be used, said he was concerned that some weight-loss promotions suggested prescription diet pills were a “quick-fix miracle cure”.

The tablets are currently only available on private prescription, with a likely commitment of a year or longer. "They never tell you how much it's going to cost in the long term," he said. "We shouldn't be going into debt over our health."

Piotr Ozieranski, a reader at the Department of Social and Policy Sciences at University of Bath, has previously complained with research colleagues to the ASA and MHRA about the marketing practices of online pharmacies.

"There has been a consistent breaching of the regulations. It's shocking it's still happening. This is a huge market and the financial incentives for some of these companies are just too hard to resist," he claimed.

Superdrug said promotions were regularly reviewed for its Online Doctor service to ensure they complied with regulation. The firm said: "Weight-loss services can bring real health benefits to patients. We recognise the concerns about marketing and welcome clear regulation."

Dr Earim Chaudry, chief medical officer at Voy, said patient decisions were clinician-led and promotions were developed to comply with advertising standards. The ad on London buses was subject to the appropriate Transport for London advertising approval process, according to company sources.

Asda said it regularly reviewed its communications. It said its online doctor service is operated by a contracted third party and any treatment is only prescribed following clinical assessment. Any promotions relate to the patient consultation, said an Asda spokesperson.

A Groupon spokesperson said a promotion for £90 off the Wegovy pill had since been removed. Bolt and pharmacyonline.co.uk did not respond to a request for comment

A PayPal spokesperson said buy now, pay later was a form of credit and customers should think about how they will afford repayments. The spokesperson said the credit was interest free, regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority and could provide an affordable way to manage the cost of purchases, including higher-value items, such as essential medicines.

The ASA said breaches of code concerning prescription drugs were a priority area, with extensive enforcement. "There is significant innovation in the digital healthcare sector," said a spokesperson. "However, that does not excuse advertisers putting commercial incentives over public safety." It said the majority of companies complied with advertising standards.

Julian Beach, executive director of healthcare, quality and access at the MHRA, said it took the issue of medicines advertising “extremely seriously”. He said: “Where advertisers breach the regulations, we will not hesitate to use the full range of available options to protect the public.”

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Burnham's shock statement on Europe stuns his colleagues in Westminster

The PM's assertion that ‘we could go all the way’ had Whitehall reeling as it emerged all but the closest advisers were in the dark about his bold first step towards rejoining the EU. Rachel Sylvester reports

When Andy Burnham told the Labour conference “Brexit has done more harm than good” and that all options were on the table for the UK’s long-term relationship with the EU, the civil servants who have been beavering away on Europe policy for months were stunned. “Nobody was expecting this,” one Whitehall source said. “Officials were totally reeling. It was a million miles away from what they have been working on.

"It's exciting to have more ambition, but they also need to work out what to do next. It's a new world they're in."

There was no cabinet discussion in advance about a policy shift that has transformed the political landscape. The prime minister wrote the speech himself, and was determined to include a significant announcement on Europe. He then doubled down on the pro-European message in subsequent interviews, confirming that the UK could “go all the way” and rejoin the EU. This was “coming from Burnham himself”, according to a Foreign Office insider.

Those around the Labour leader are still trying to think through the consequences. “It could be very significant,” one cabinet minister said. “We need clarity about our long-term relationship with Europe. It’s been a bit crablike, and things have changed since 2016 because of the Ukraine war and Donald Trump. But there are a lot of unanswered questions. I don’t really know what the end destination point is.” Another argued that, in an increasingly unstable world, Britain needs to be “part of a club” for the sake of the economy, as well as national security.

It was only in May that Burnham promised during the Makerfield byelection campaign not to “rerun” the Brexit arguments, and said he was not proposing that the UK considers rejoining the EU. But the prime minister’s personal view has long been that Britain should aim to go back into the bloc at some point, and public opinion is shifting. When Burnham met Trump at the UN general assembly in New York last month, the US president asked him whether support for Brexit was “still 50-50”. The prime minister replied: “It’s actually changing.”

A recent YouGov poll that is circulating in Downing Street found 59% of Britons now support rejoining the EU, almost double the 32% who oppose it. Among Labour voters, the number in favour is 85%, while for Liberal Democrats it is 76%, and among Greens, it is 83%. The issue that drove apart the Labour coalition could now reunite progressive voters. Even in Makerfield, which voted Leave in 2016, the mood has changed. During the byelection, Burnham was shown private polling that suggested the constituency had flipped and would now support Remain.

The economic arguments are compelling for a Labour leader who urgently needs to generate resources to fund his priorities. The prime minister has said he wants to add “percentage points” to growth by getting closer to the EU but this will never be delivered within the parameters of Keir Starmer’s “red lines” for negotiations. These rule out a return to the single market, customs union or free movement of people.

To make matters worse, Burnham has been warned in recent weeks that the UK looks increasingly likely to be excluded from the EU's Made in Europe policy, which aims to protect European companies from state-subsidised competition from China. This would have a devastating impact on the British car industry, and more than wipe out any economic gains from the incremental “reset” in relations between the UK and the EU that is now under way.

Mark Leonard, director of the European Council on Foreign Relations, says a new approach is essential to break through the economic “glass ceiling”. He thinks more ambition is also crucial to engage European heads of state. “What was on the agenda in the Starmer era was so modest that it doesn’t really deliver much for the EU. Friedrich

Merz in Germany or Pedro Sánchez in Spain or Giorgia Meloni in Italy have got a lot on their plate at the moment, so they weren't very interested," he said.

“You’ve had the European Commission on autopilot negotiating at snail’s pace, then the French putting more and more barriers in the way of the UK. I think what Burnham’s done has completely changed the dynamics around this, so people are sitting up and paying attention in a way that they really weren’t before.”

Last week the French president, Emmanuel Macron, said Britain returning to the EU would be “excellent news” and Spanish prime minister Sánchez declared that the UK would be welcomed “with open arms”. Susanne Baumann, the German ambassador to the UK, confirmed Berlin would be a “partner” for as ambitious a new relationship as possible.

One cabinet minister suggests that the associate membership offered to Canada by the EU “opens up” the idea of an outer circle that Britain could join. Stella Creasy, the Labour MP for Walthamstow and chair of the Labour Movement for Europe, said a “salvage operation” is required. “We walked into the negotiation saying: ‘No to 'Most European capitals are delighted to have a British prime minister who has a clear vision'

Peter Ricketts, former Foreign Office head

this, no to that, no to everything.' Who negotiates like that, apart from a toddler? [The Canadian PM] Mark Carney has walked in and said: 'What do we share in common?'

"He is immediately getting a much more expansive and productive response. You can see a pathway whereby Britain shows willingness to put everything on the table, have a serious conversation, and Europe comes up with a bespoke deal."

Burnham's top team is divided about whether Labour should go into the next election with a bold offer on Europe. Two-thirds of cabinet ministers, including the first secretary, Louise Haigh, the chancellor, John Healey, and the foreign secretary, Ed Miliband, represent seats that voted Leave in 2016. Last week, the business secretary, Jonathan Reynolds, warned Labour against rejoining the customs union and said Britain must not return to the “paralysis” of the Brexit years. But Wes Streeting, the defence secretary, has argued that leaving the EU had been a “catastrophic mistake” and the UK should “one day” rejoin.

Speaking at the Labour Movement for Europe rally in Liverpool, Miliband made clear where his instincts lie.

“Every experience I’ve had in the two months that I’ve been foreign secretary tells me our future lies in a deeper, stronger partnership with the EU,” he said. “From climate to the Middle East, to Sudan,

Students at an 'Our future, Our Choice' event in London in 2019 raise awareness of the desire for another EU referendum.

Leon Neal/

Getty Images

to AI, where have I turned? To our European partners."

Unlike his predecessors, the foreign secretary has refused to leave the Brexit negotiations to the Cabinet Office. Hamish Falconer, the minister for European relations, straddles the two departments. Stewart Wood, who worked alongside Miliband when they were both advising Gordon Brown, is now the Foreign Office minister in the Lords. He is described as being “critical” to the internal discussions on Europe, bringing intellectual heft and economic expertise to the debate. The prime minister’s chief of staff, James Purnell, is in favour of further integration. Will Straw, who plays the same role for the chancellor, ran the Remain campaign in 2016.

The unions have also been pressing the government to seek the deepest possible partnership with the EU. The TUC general secretary, Paul Nowak, said Brexit has been “disastrous” for workers and businesses, and negotiations should be “guided by the national interest, not arbitrary red lines”.

More than half of voters think Burnham is taking the right approach in considering all options, according to the latest Opinium poll for The Observer. Only 13% think Brexit has done more good than harm to the UK, and 46% believe it has done much more harm than good.

Former Foreign Office head Peter Ricketts said the “mood music is positive" before the delayed UK-EU summit, which is expected to take place on 20 November. "Most European capitals are delighted to have a British prime minister who has a clear vision on future relations with Europe," he said. "Their big grouse over the past few years has been that nobody ever had more than a very tactical, short-term view of the relationship with the EU. Here we have a politician who's coming out clearly with a strongly pro-Europe message that Brexit was a mistake, and that's very welcome."

But Ricketts thinks negotiations will not start in earnest until after the next general election. “Supposing we started and then there was a [Nigel] Farage government. The only way we’re going to get a major move forward is after an election which confirms another pro-Europe British government,” he said.

The former Labour leader Neil Kinnock believes Burnham was brought to this point by “realism and patriotism” in a world that has changed “seismically” in the past decade. “We have got to seek to join again because what we left isn’t there any more,” Kinnock said. “I’m working on trying to persuade everybody I know that should be the objective, so that the mandate is clear. I didn’t think it would happen in my lifetime. I’m 84 and I think that, by the time of my funeral, it’ll be much nearer. That’s the direction of travel.”

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The prime minister has pledged to prioritise Britain's social care. Getty Images

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No 10's ‘theory of growth’ is set for a cautious reality check on budget day

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COMMENTARY

Ben

Zaranko

Economics editor

A ndy Burnham has rightly received plaudits for facing up to issues that politicians have for too long shied away from.

Whether it's fixing the inequity of England's social care system, or removing the worst features of the state pension triple lock, he plans to tackle things that he could easily have ignored.

Or, at least, he said he'll tackle them in the next parliament, if he gets re-elected. In the meantime, the budget is just weeks away and the financial storm clouds are gathering.

The yield on 30-year UK government bonds – what investors demand to lend to the UK government – nudged above 6% this week for the first time since 1998. That’s an uncomfortable milestone, comparable to the borrowing costs that the Italian government faced during the height of the Eurozone crisis. This week’s market movements were driven by global shifts, rather than UK-specific factors, but are no less painful for that.

Against that backdrop, the general expectation is for a steady-as-she-goes budget that avoids spooking the markets, and delays the biggest decisions – including how to pay for the government's defence promises – until next year, at the earliest.

That doesn't mean the budget will be devoid of content. We can expect new announcements on devolution, which sits at the heart of what Burnham this week called his “theory of growth”. The theory, such as it is, is that public control of the essentials and the devolution of power out of Whitehall will optimise conditions for businesses to grow.

During her time as chancellor, Rachel Reeves set in train plans to allow regional mayors to keep a share of tax revenues raised in their area, rather than be funded by grants from central government. John Healey will now confirm the details in the budget.

This does have the potential to be a genuinely growth-friendly policy. If mayors' funding is more closely linked to the economic performance of their area, they've got a financial incentive to facilitate economic growth. And, if a mayor thinks a local investment project (such as a railway extension, or a tram network) would boost local growth and tax revenues, they can borrow against those revenues to help finance the investment without first having to convince Treasury officials that it's a good idea.

Areas that under-perform will

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The expectation is for a steady-as-she-goes budget that avoids spooking the markets

lose out financially, but that's sort of the point: it's the flip-side of allowing mayors to share in the benefits when their local economy is booming. Still, that brings risks. The Institute for Fiscal Studies warned on Friday that without careful design, tax devolution could widen regional inequalities, rather than narrow them. Instead of growth in every postcode, we could get growing postcode lotteries.

The prospect of a budget narrowly focused on devolution and targeting cost of living measures is also causing consternation among some Labour figures. The Guardian reported on Friday that government insiders are worried about a lack of clarity from the new chancellor and an “underpowered” budget process.

More generally, Burnham's “theory of growth” is a bit thin. It was the flimsiest element of what was otherwise a strong and well-argued speech to Labour party conference. Healey was right to tell delegates this week that “without growth, there is no social democracy”. But his government’s plan for how we get it needs a bit more work.

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Karl Mathiesen

A British-Iranian national who was arrested in Westminster in relation to suspicious events that took place at RAF Fairford airbase has been released on bail, counter-terrorism police said yesterday.

The decision to bail five other suspects arrested last weekend near the Gloucestershire base, all UK nationals, raised eyebrows in the White House. But two of the UK's most senior barristers said police had acted appropriately despite political pressure.

“It’s good that the police are sufficiently independent that they ignore what President Trump says from afar,” said Jonathan Hall, the government’s independent reviewer of terrorism legislation.

After the five men were released by police last Monday, Donald Trump, his secretary of state Marco Rubio and Reform leader Nigel Farage all questioned the decision. Denying Iran's involvement, the Iranian foreign minister, Abbas Araghchi, wrote on X: "Releasing individuals who are allegedly state-sponsored foreign terrorists speaks for itself."

But Hall and Max Hill, who served as director of public prosecutions for England and Wales from 2018-2023, said the police had bought themselves time to pursue a complex investigation, which prime minister Andy Burnham said last Wednesday would probably lead back to Iran.

The suspects are believed to have driven vans carrying fuel to the perimeter of the airbase, which the US is using for bombing operations in Iran, early last Sunday. After apprehending them, police had 24 hours to charge them under the Police and Criminal Evidence Act (Pace) or apply for a court extension. Otherwise they could arrest them as potential terrorists or agents of a foreign state. Under counter terrorism laws, that extends to 14 days. But police can stop that clock ticking by releasing suspects under bail conditions, if they believe they are not a safety or flight risk.

“It’s better to hold sufficient time on that custody clock to allow you to really bottom out your investigation,” former DPP Hill said. “All of their options are open.”

Last Thursday Iran summoned Britain's ambassador to complain about Burnham's allegation.

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Cap lifetime social care costs or elderly risk ruin, PM is told

Rachel Sylvester

Political editor

Andy Burnham is being urged to introduce a lifetime cap on social care costs to ensure that those living with dementia do not face ruinous bills.

Louise Casey, the crossbench peer leading an independent commission on adult social care in England, is understood to have concluded that imposing a limit on the total paid by individuals who need residential care is the only way to stop people with long-term conditions such as Alzheimer's losing all their savings or having to sell their home.

Her recommendation has not been finalised but two sources said the commission is concerned about the risk of “catastrophic costs” for vulnerable elderly people if there is no cap. This could be a financial limit or a maximum period that self-funders would have to pay for their own care.

The proposal would increase the cost of social care reform, raising fresh questions about how it would be funded. A planned lifetime cap of £86,000 was scrapped in 2024 by then chancellor Rachel Reeves. As Labour health secretary, Burnham supported a two-year time limit on residential care costs, meaning the state would fund anyone who was in a home for longer than that.

In his Labour conference speech, the prime minister promised to create a National Care Service, providing free personal care for older people, based on need rather than ability to pay. He described his pledge as “a landmark policy as significant as the creation of the NHS” and announced that the pension triple lock would be adjusted to help fund the reform.

In a post on X last week, he said the social care system was “broken”. “Shamefully, millions of older people have unmet care needs,” he said. “Far too many see everything they have worked for – their home, pension and savings – wiped out by care bills.”

Downing Street said Burnham wanted to create a system similar to the one in Scotland, where all older people are eligible for free personal care at home. However, critics say the Scottish system still leaves many families with crushing debt. Those who go into residential care and do not qualify for means-tested support receive only £260 a week. A care home place typically costs £1,500 a week, meaning expenses quickly accumulate and some people end up having to sell their home to plug the gap.

Officials at the Department of Health and Social Care warn that introducing free personal care without also introducing a cap on costs would not fix one of the main problems identified by the prime minister.

A report from the King's Fund, to be published next week, will propose universal access to social care, partly funded by the taxpayer and with a cap on costs for individuals. Simon Bottery, a senior fellow for social care at the thinktank, said: "It's one of the great injustices of the social care system that some people end up having to spend hundreds of thousands of pounds on their individual care costs. You have to pool the risk."

About 75% of adults over 65 are expected to need care in later life, with one in seven facing costs of more than £100,000. Today people in England with assets of more than £23,250 are responsible for funding their care. Burnham's proposal would provide support for needs such as eating and bathing but families would still pay the bulk of care home costs.

Somebody with Alzheimer's who is in a home for several years could still end up losing everything. If there were a cap, people would pay for residential care up to the limit and then the state would take over the costs, based on the rate paid by local authorities for those who are funded.

The cost of a cap would depend on the level at which it was set. The budget for the £86,000 lifetime cap, which has already been legislated for, would rise to about £4bn a year by 2035-36. The Health Foundation estimates that Scottish-style free personal care would cost £7.5bn a year in England by the same date. A system of social care that covers all of people's care home costs would cost about £18.5bn a year by 2035-36, according to the thinktank.

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Celebrity Traitors bosses watched Grant's gaffe ‘with hands over our faces’

The actor's opening-episode faux pas may cost him dear at the round table, but it has sent series ratings sky-high

Stephen Armstrong

The gobsmacking revelation at the centre of the new series of The Celebrity Traitors hasn't just come as a surprise to its faithful viewers, it caused the creators of the BBC hit series to reel in horror, according to one of its makers.

“We sat in the control room, watching from a distance, with hands over our faces, [thinking] ‘What is going to happen?’” said Mike Cotton, an executive producer.

"There are no producers in the castle talking to contestants or trying to shape the show. So we don't really have any control over anything, except in the way we plan the season and the set pieces. And you couldn't have planned for that."

Cotton is referring to the extraordinary moment Richard E Grant revealed to his competitors that he was a Traitor, in the opening episode, screened last Thursday. It's the first time in the show's history that a contestant has threatened to upend the game by showing their hand. The 69-year-old actor has since attempted to row back, citing nerves and a mere desire to be a Traitor. This week viewers will learn whether his castlemates believe him.

Essentially an elaborate game of Wink Murder, the show pits the killer Traitors, who must keep their identities a secret, against 18 Faithfuls, who must guess the Traitors' identities and banish them from the Scottish castle where the game is set. Grant's outburst was followed by a dramatic finale to the first episode in which the comedian James Acaster was set against the broadcaster Amol Rajan: one was to be recruited to treachery, the other mur-

Richard E Grant, above, has boosted ratings for the show, hosted by Claudia Winkleman. Euan Cherry/BBC, Studio Lambert

dered. In the end, Rajan became the first victim in Friday's episode. "I should have stayed shtum and flown under the radar," he said. "But it's all in the edit. Almost everyone quizzed Richard, but in the episode they only showed me grilling him. It's gutting. I would have loved being a Traitor."

Rajan, 43, went on to say he had especially enjoyed the challenge, as well as his proximity to fellow contestant Jerry Hall, 70. "If my 21-year-old self was told that I was going to be stood in a wetsuit, with new walking boots, on a beach in front of a burning shipwreck, next to Jerry Hall, telling me she was about to wield a crowbar and that she was an expert in it, I'd have said your life has turned out pretty damn well," he said.

In March Studio Lambert, which produces the UK and US versions, signed a deal to keep the franchise of the original Dutch format on BBC1 until 2030 at the very least. In November last year, a report by Visit Scotland and Screen Scotland credited the programme with generating roughly £22m for the Scottish economy since filming began in 2022.

The overnight ratings of the first two episodes of the latest series of The Celebrity Traitors have exceeded those of the first episodes of the inaugural series and generated more than 600 memes in two days – including Amol Rajan and James Acaster cast as Del Boy and Rodney from Only Fools and Horses.

The first episode in the first celebrity series, broadcast in 2025, drew an overnight average audience of 6.1 million, and episode two averaged 6.5 million viewers. Both went on to secure 15 million viewers for their 28-day viewing figures – the official ratings measure.

By the same scale, episodes one and two of the second series are already pulling in roughly 3 million more viewers than the first.

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‘They’re clear they’re innocent and they’re going to prove it’

Andy Burnham's former deputy mayor stands by Manchester City and criticises the Premier League investigation into the football club's finances, after it was found guilty of numerous breaches, write Catherine Neilan and Jon Ungoed-Thomas

The architect of Manchesterism and former deputy mayor of Greater Manchester under Andy Burnham has launched a strong criticism of the Premier League's investigation into Manchester City football club's finances.

Richard Leese, now the honorary president of Manchester City, has stood by its owners.

“They are quite clear they are innocent and that they are going to prove it,” he said. “If I have a choice of believing the Premier League or Man City football club, I wouldn’t choose the Premier League.”

Last Tuesday, the league confirmed the club had been found guilty of all charges relating to breaches of financial regulations between the 2009-10 and 2017-18 seasons, with an independent commission finding that it had arranged “sham contracts” as well as “relying on sham agreements to artificially inflate the club’s revenues and reduce its costs”.

The club maintains its innocence and has lodged an appeal.

Manchester City was bought in 2008 by Abu Dhabi United Group, a private investment company owned by Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al

Nahyan, the brother of the UAE president. Sheikh Mansour's group of companies has since invested in a £1bn regeneration project in Manchester for the planned development of 6,000 homes; the Co-op Live arena next to the Manchester City stadium; and the Medlock Square entertainment district.

“From a Manchester point of view, the involvement of Abu Dhabi United Group... has been entirely positive. The city is a lot better place for the work they have done,” said Leese.

The Observer has established that Abu Dhabi held talks with a British minister following initial reports of the verdict, as the government insisted that the Premier League's investigation into the club's finances was “independent”.

Stephen Doughty, a foreign office minister with responsibility for the Middle East, was called by UAE officials last week. He also joined the UAE ambassador Mansoor Abdullah Khalfan on a panel at Labour's party conference last Monday. Although it is thought that Manchester City was not raised during the meeting itself, Abu Dhabi has made clear its displeasure with the ruling. There was also a series of phone calls between senior diplomats on both sides that touched on business and security concerns.

An FCDO spokesperson said: “As you’d expect, UK government ministers, including Stephen Doughty... regularly engage with the UAE on a range of issues in our mutual interest.”

Senior figures within the regime have been hoping to speak directly to Burnham, in what one source described as a “top to top” call between him and the Emirati royal and vice-president of the United Arab Emirates, Sheikh Mansour. “They do things very much on personal relationships,” the source added.

Over the past five years, the UAE has poured more than £30bn into the UK, overseen by its state-owned sovereign fund, Mubadala.

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'If I have a choice of believing the Premier League or Man City, I wouldn't choose the Premier League' Richard Leese

In 2021, when Boris Johnson was prime minister, an expanded UAE-UK Sovereign Investment Partnership was signed in Downing Street, through which UAE officials agreed to provide significant investment in technology, infrastructure, energy transition and life sciences.

A wave of new investments in Britain by the UAE followed, including a stake in a £11bn North Sea windfarm announced by Rishi Sunak in December 2023; education projects, including provision of specialist school places; financial services; and broadband infrastructure.

Documents obtained by the Telegraph have shown how Labour ministers had courted the UAE for new investment in a high-tech corridor between Cambridge and Oxford. A letter sent in February invited partners of Manchester City chairman Khaldoon Al Mubarak, who is also chief executive of UAE fund Mubadala, to visit the corridor project.

Major UAE-owned firms have also backed infrastructure projects in the UK and supported thousands of jobs. Dubai-owned DP World is investing £1bn to increase capacity of its London Gateway container port in Essex. Abu Dhabi property firm Aldar Properties has significant investments in London, and Diafa this year bought a controlling stake in the Ivy restaurant empire. Trade in goods and services between the UK and UAE is worth about £25bn a year.

When asked about the Premier League's investigation, Burnham, mayor of Greater Manchester between 2017 and June 2026, said he was not

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The Mancini contract that could deepen Manchester City's crisis

Matthew Bishop

"It's not a problem that concerns me," said Roberto Mancini. The manager of Italy's national team was responding to the guilty verdict on 114 of 115 charges against Manchester City, the club he used to coach. His unusual double contract while at the club has become a focus of debate about whether City's appeal might succeed.

Unless it can overturn the decision of the independent commission that heard the charges of breaking the Premier League's financial fair play rules, the club faces a potential points deduction, relegation or expulsion from the league and a fine. If authorities outside football get involved, there could be lawsuits from other clubs and a possible criminal prosecution.

The commission found City paid one individual through agreements that were a “sham”. A report by Tax Policy Associates, a thinktank, concluded the individual was likely to be Mancini, and “the evidence points to £12m in unpaid UK tax”. With interest and penalties, the bill could reach£24m, followed by a criminal investigation.

When Mancini became City's gaffer in 2009, he got two contracts. The first, with the club, gave him a basic salary of £1.45m per season after tax. The second, with Al Jazira Sports and Cultural Club, was a consulting agreement paying Mancini's company £1.75m a year, with no tax deducted. Both clubs are owned by

After eight years of investment in the city centre, Beetham Tower is surrounded by skyscrapers.

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After investment, in 2026

getting “directly involved in the process”. He was criticised for some of his initial comments about the verdict, having said: “It’s frustrating when people rush to judgment and proclaim people guilty”.

Last Wednesday he told the BBC: "I would be really concerned to lose them [City's owners]. They've been such a huge partner in the building of modern Manchester."

No 10 has since issued a new statement: “The initial judgment is serious and there can’t be any suggestion that anyone is above the rules”, and it stressed the “independent process”.

“Wherever wrongdoing is established, those responsible should face the appropriate consequences,” a spokesperson said.

But one Labour MP called Burnham's initial comments “really silly” and said that “he needs to recognise he’s no longer the mayor of Manchester”. Another said: “Andy needs to be more diplomatic now than he was a few years ago.”

Christopher Davidson, author of Abu Dhabi: Oil and Beyond, said the Man City verdict was “uncharted territory” because it involved a highly personalised deal, involving Sheikh Mansour and Al Mubarak.

Davidson said sources he had spoken with suggested there would probably be an “unwinding” from the club if the verdict stood and once the appeal process had been exhausted. “This clearly is a reputational blow,” he said. “Any soft power benefits are now a net negative and the

Roberto Mancini, the former City manager, says he is not concerned by claims about his finances.

Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan. Leaked documents show that in 2011, the first payment on the consulting contract was made from a Manchester City account. This suggests the two contracts were in reality one, and were payment for Mancini to manage City. If so, the club understated his pay in its accounts and possibly failed to hand over the pay-as-you-earn income tax and national insurance due on it: about £12m on £8.9m of payments over four seasons. When TPA asked the club if the tax had been paid, it received no reply.

costs will continue the longer they stick around."

He said the associated investments in Manchester may also be affected, but other UK investments were likely to be more secure.

Simon Penney, a former trade commissioner for the Middle East, said ownership of the football club had for years helped boost the international image of the UAE. “If you buy a club that has not experienced much success, and you take them to eight [Premier League] championships, it’s an immense source of pride,” he said. “The flipside is the reputational damage that is now being caused. The leadership of the UAE are very protective of the reputation of the country and they will feel this quite acutely.”

Penney considered it unlikely that any existing investments in the UK would be affected by the controversy, but said that future investments could potentially be reviewed. "There may be a period of things slowing down," he said. "The underlying investment logic will remain."

One backbencher suggested the situation was a wake-up call following what they considered to be “a decades-long sportswashing exercise”.

They said: “This has been a long time coming. [Manchester] City under Sheikh Mansour have always pushed the envelope of what’s permitted. Now it looks like time has caught up with them.”

Pressure is growing for an investigation by the Financial Reporting Council (FRC). Liam Byrne, Labour MP for Birmingham Hodge Hill and Solihull North, has sent a letter to the independent financial regulator requesting a new investigation into City's “alleged misstatements”. Byrne, chair of the Commons business, innovation, science and trade committee, asked the FRC to examine the case..

Mancini reportedly insists that if the double contract is a problem, it is City's. On that, the taxman may agree.

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The PM is a true football fan. It's why he scored an own goal

ANALYSIS

Rory Smith

Football correspondent

ndy Burnham and Keir Starmer count as genuine, sincere and avid football fans. The prime minister has regularly been

seen running in a mid-80s Everton shirt, while Starmer has, for years, held a season ticket at Arsenal.

What distinguishes Burnham, though, is that his fandom plays as inherently authentic to a demographic that is inclined towards cynicism on these things: David Cameron once confused Aston Villa, the team he claims to follow, with West Ham.

Starmer, for reasons that are not entirely clear, seemed to be placed in much the same category. But football should be one of Burnham's strengths, a core tenet of his appeal to a vast swathe of the electorate and terra firma politically. And yet, twice in a couple of weeks, he has managed to misread it spectacularly.

First, he said he would be willing to countenance lifting the ban on drinking alcohol in view of the pitch at games, a rule Burnham has long regarded as outdated.

– being found guilty of more than 100 counts of breaching the Premier League’s financial regulations.

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Except most fans now think adults are capable of going 45 minutes without a pint and do not want to be continually disturbed by people going to get a drink, or going to get rid of one. Burnham duly backed down.

The prime minister's first response was to suggest that he would be “really concerned” to lose City’s owners, while thanking them for investment they had made into both the club and Manchester as a whole. He also said he did not wish to “leap to one side” on the issue.

Those remarks were later clarified to state that nobody could be “above the rules” if wrongdoing were proven, before reminding everyone that wrongdoing had already been proven, albeit pending an appeal. By that stage, of course, both the Tories and Lib Dems had expressed surprise at Burnham’s apparent defence of a team found guilty of industrial-scale cheating.

More serious, last week, were his attempts to pick his way around the issue of Manchester City – a club owned by a group with connections to the ruling family of Abu Dhabi

There are two lessons here. One is that football is complex and capricious territory for any politician, because most issues are interpreted through a tribal lens. The other is that fandom is not always a strength.

Rory Smith's Football Observer

Burnham's initial response was rooted in his experiences as an Evertonian. His team, after all, was found guilty of breaching financial rules a couple of years ago, in a much more minor way.

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He allowed that to inform his immediate reaction to the City verdict. “I fought for Everton in that situation. I still hold the view very firmly that they weren’t fairly treated in that process,” he said. This is an orthodox Evertonian belief; and Burnham is a real fan. It is just that tribal logic, however sincere, probably should not shape a worldview.

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Read our full analysis of the Manchester City scandal Sport, pages 3-8

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Botched Tennessee execution exposes death row's reliance on weak, fake or expired drugs

Unable to access lethal sedatives from pharma companies, US jails use what they can – and inmates such as Christa Pike pay the price.

Isabel Coles reports

The botched execution of a woman in a Tennessee prison last week is drawing attention to the murky supply chains used to procure the drug used in lethal injections in the US.

Lawyers for Christa Pike say she is now unconscious, intubated and on a ventilator after being injected on Wednesday with two doses of pentobarbital – a sedative also used in animal euthanasia and assisted suicide.

But pharmaceutical companies have imposed strict controls to prevent pentobarbital and other drugs being sold for use in executions. Instead, US state correction agencies have sourced the drug from abroad or from under-regulated pharmacies.

“We don’t know whether the drugs that were injected into Christa Pike’s veins were expired,” said Blaire Andres, who leads US death penalty case work for the nonprofit Reprieve. “We don’t know anything about where the products originated from.”

Sentenced to death two decades ago for the murder of 19-year-old Colleen Slemmer, Pike, now 50, is the only prisoner in the era of the modern death penalty to survive the administration of lethal injection drugs.

The scandal prompted Tennessee's head of prisons to resign yesterday. Frank Strada, commissioner for the Department of Correction, said he was stepping down "in the best interests" of the state and said the investigation into Pike's execution was "entirely appropriate and necessary".

Pentobarbital is so hard for states to come by that some have brought back execution by firing squad or considered nitrogen suffocation.

As it became harder to source the drug abroad, many turned to compounding pharmacies that make drugs for individual patients.

“It is creating a system where quality is now certainly at risk,” said Prashant Yarav, a globally recognised expert in healthcare supply chains. “It could have lower potency, it could have less active ingredients than what it’s supposed to have. It could be completely counterfeit and fake.”

Pike's lawyers have suggested the pentobarbital was degraded. Compounded medications fail quality and potency specifications at much higher rates than drugs approved by the Food and Drug Administration.

The drug should be kept at a controlled temperature and may have been improperly stored, said Yarav. "Somebody could have kept it in the trunk of their car for hours, exposed to direct sunlight... Or it could have just been past its expiration date."

Death row defence attorneys raised concerns last year that Tennessee might be using expired drugs, which they said would be less potent and could lead to suffering. At the time, the state refused to disclose the expiration date of its pentobarbital.

"With animal euthanasia you have veterinarians that are trained to do this. In the execution context we don't have the same trained people," said Corinna Barrett Lain, author of Secrets of the Killing State: the Untold Story of Lethal Injection.

Inability to insert an IV line is among the most common reasons for botched lethal injections, according to the Death Penalty Information Center (DPI). Pike's remarks that she felt a burning sensation in her arm suggest the drug may have been injected into tissue instead of a vein.

Tennessee's governor Bill Lee has ordered an independent review of the state's lethal injection protocols and halted all executions this year.

Executions using lethal injection are the most likely to go wrong, experts say. Data published by the DPI showed that 7% of executions using lethal injection in the US were botched between 1890 and 2010, compared with an overall rate of 3.2% during the same period.

"It only does one thing well: it hides the violence of what state killing is," said Lain. "With the firing squad we have to see blood, and with the electric chair you have to smell... burning flesh, and with the gas chamber people are retching and trying to knock themselves out. With lethal injection you get to tell yourself that these people are just falling into forever sleep."

The gruesome spectacle of Pike's killing may begin to change that.

Christa Pike survived two lethal injections of pentobarbital. Ambulances at the Tennessee prison, above, last Wednesday.

Tennessee Department of Correction/Zuma Press, Avalon

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El Niño is already breaking records – weeks before it hits

Jeevan Vasagar

Climate editor

Sea surface temperatures in the Pacific reached new highs last week, indicating the growing strength of the El Niño weather phenomenon as its first impacts are felt worldwide.

Temperatures rose to 3.23C above average, according to preliminary data gathered from Niño 3.4, a region of the equatorial Pacific halfway between South America and Australia that scientists use to classify the strength of an El Niño event.

El Niño is a natural climate event that releases stored heat from the ocean into the atmosphere, dispatching drought and storms around the world. That temperature records are being broken several weeks before the phenomenon is due to reach peak intensity in the northern hemisphere winter has strengthened fears it will be unusually strong.

Andrew Coburn, co-founder of Risilience, a climate risk consultancy, said: "We expect El Niño to last longer now, into February, and then start dropping off between April and June.

That will eat into the planting season next year and that's one of the key factors for our forecasts – the food price inflation that we are worried about. It will be a stressful period, with the risk of power shortages and food price rises."

The initial impacts are already being felt. India's monsoon is the weakest it has been for more than a decade, threatening the rice harvest and hydropower generation. The fall-out will not be limited to the country's farmers but ripple through the entire economy as consumption drops.

Meanwhile, California has declared a state of emergency, bracing for severe winter storms blowing in from an unusually warm Pacific. A giant underwater band of warm water known as a “Kelvin wave” is heading for the state's coastline, where it is expected to elevate sea levels by up to 30cm for months, amplifying the risk of floods from destructive storms.

Other regions such as southern Africa will face an increased risk of drought as El Niño strengthens.

Abundant harvests of wheat and rice in 2025 and 2026 provide some buffer for food supplies, but many countries rely on “just in time” supply chains to keep shelves full.

In China, which holds the world's biggest stockpiles of wheat according to a US government estimate, officials reassured the public that food reserves are well stocked. Egypt, Morocco and Algeria have begun amassing reserves of grain anticipating an El Niño-related supply crunch.

Most European countries operate on slim margins. Among the exceptions are Finland, which keeps a nine-month reserve of grain, and Sweden, which advises citizens to be able to manage for a week without power, water or buying groceries. Its government began stockpiling food, seeds and artificial fertiliser last year.

Aside from food, the choking of fuel supplies from the Middle East means Europe is heading into winter with depleted energy reserves, with gas storage at 71% compared with the seasonal average of 87%.

For the UK, El Niño raises the chances of heavy rainfall and storms until December, followed by a cold snap in early 2027, which may lead to a surge in energy demand at a time when the gas supplies are expected to remain tight.

Dr Raymond Pederson at his home in Vancouver.

Jimmy Jeong/

The Observer

From the intestines, GIP and GLP-1s travel to organs across the body

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The godfather of weight loss drugs: 'I know there can be bad outcomes'

In his first interview, the Canadian scientist Ray Pederson, who discovered the hormone that led to the development of GLP-1 drugs, tells James Tapper why he is concerned about the potential risks of their widespread use

Without Ray Pederson, weight-loss drugs might not exist. It's a legacy he's not entirely comfortable with.

"I do have real concerns," he says. The Canadian physiologist was a pioneer, the junior partner in the two-man team that discovered the first hormone to govern appetite: gastric inhibitory polypeptide, or GIP. Their discovery forms the foundation of the entire \$92bn weight-loss drugs market.

“Certainly for the morbidly obese, it’s been a godsend,” Pederson says. “But it’s being promoted as a way for everybody to lose weight, not just people who are obese, but if you want to lose a few pounds to fit in your bathing suit.”

Given Pederson's central role in a discovery that has transformed the world, it seems extraordinary that he has never given an interview before. Yet he and the other member of the team, his PhD supervisor John Brown, a hard-drinking, combative scientist from County Durham, have largely been forgotten. In fact, Pederson, now 84, feels they've been written out of history. After all, weight-loss drugs are known by the name of the second hormone

to be discovered: GLP-1, not GIP. The two substances cooperate in the body to regulate our appetites, but the story behind them is one of rivalries: between the two main drugs, Mounjaro and Wegovy; their active ingredients, tirzepatide and semaglutide; their makers, Eli Lilly and Novo Nordisk; and between the researchers behind the discoveries of GIP and GLP-1.

But first, why does Pederson think we are being too blasé about drugs that have already transformed millions of lives?

“[GLP-1] affects the central nervous system, affects a lot of different systems in the body, and no one is really clear what’s going to happen with long-term use,” he says. “I have enough experience with interfering with [the body’s self-regulating] homeostatic systems to know there can be bad outcomes over a long period of time.”

Such warnings are familiar to people taking these drugs. As well as the more common side-effects of nausea, constipation and fatigue, rare cases of pancreatitis and gallbladder disease have been reported. Researchers are looking into the possibility of a link to loss of vision. A potential public health disaster seems unlikely, though. The first drug in this class, exenatide,

was approved for use by diabetics in 2005, giving plenty of time to spot issues. Other side-effects may even be positive: there are signs that the drugs lower the risk of heart attacks, strokes, kidney disease, addiction and inflammation throughout the body, although some of this may be the result of reducing obesity.

Even so, Pederson worked on these hormones throughout his four-decade career. His expertise is based on examining them in people and animals in fine detail. He mentions experiments on “knockout mice” – animals bred to remove a gene that gives the body instructions to produce a particular hormone.

“Where a hormone is just removed from the body, there may be an initial effect, but usually – often – what happens is that another hormonal system will increase to compensate,” he says. “So when you’re adding a lot of GLP-1 to the system, it seems to me that there could be interference or adjustment in other biochemical systems that might have deleterious effects.”

For people with obesity or diabetes, the potential risk is justified, he feels. Not for others. When Pederson first met Brown at the University of British Columbia

In the pancreas, GIP and GLP-1 trigger a release of insulin, lowering blood sugar

GIP is produced by K cells in the upper small intestine, while GLP-1 comes from L cells in the lower small intestine

Graphic: Hannah Schuller

In the brain,

receptors are

stimulated by the

hormones, reducing

appetite and

increasing

fullness

GIP

travels to fat,

tissue and

bone cells

GLP-1 travels to the stomach, slowing the emptying of food, and the heart

in 1967, obesity was a minor issue compared with cancer, or polio and measles. Since then, diabetes and obesity have turned into epidemics and when pharmaceutical firms looked to science for solutions, they focused on GIP and GLP-1.

Weight-loss

drugs mimic these

effects, lasting much

longer in the body

than the original

hormone

At first, Novo Nordisk's Ozempic, a diabetes drug, and its weight-loss clone Wegovy, led the way. The pharma firm was such a powerhouse that economists had to separate its revenues from Denmark's GDP figures to avoid giving a misleading impression of the country's economy.

Wegovy mimics GLP-1, but has been eclipsed by Mounjaro, which mimics both GIP and GLP-1 and is more effective at

controlling appetite. It has transformed its maker, Eli Lilly, into a \$1tn pharmaceutical behemoth.

Pederson is not a rich man, although his retirement

islands has been comfortable – he restores vintage cars, trucks and motorcycles, proudly showing off pictures. He remains professor

emeritus at the University of British Columbia.

Why does Pederson think few people remember GIP? “Part of the reason GIP got downplayed somewhat was that John made a lot of enemies,” Pederson says. “He just rubbed people the wrong way.”

Pederson liked Brown from the moment they met. Pederson was 27, and starting a master's degree after teaching high school biology. Brown was 35, a coalminer's son from Crook in County Durham, with a PhD in gastrointestinal physiology from Newcastle University.

“He was an aggressive guy, and I liked him right from the start,” Pederson says. “The prevailing attitude at the university was that if you were a junior person, you kept your place and kept your mouth shut.” But Brown had been unwilling to “pull his forelock” in the class-bound British university system of the early 1960s and joined the brain drain of academics fleeing the UK. Why should he have to wait 15 years for his own lab?

“He’d march over to the dean’s office and raise hell,” Pederson says – and he got what he wanted. Pederson became Brown’s PhD student, and his supervisor “treated me like an equal – but he demanded a lot of work too. We had a goal: not just to publish papers, but to really do something significant.”

T hat significant thing was investigating the human gut. By the 1960s, scientists had worked out that if someone eats

glucose, the amount of insulin created in response is much larger than if they were given glucose via an intravenous drip. Scientists speculated there might be a hormone that governed appetite, and called it an incretin.

Brown and Pederson had only low-tech tools. The research team didn't have the ability to purify substances enough to study them properly. The place to find the new techniques was Sweden: Brown went to work with Viktor Mutt at the Karolinska Institute. Mutt had pioneered techniques for extracting gut peptides. Brown spent a year in Sweden, purifying extracts from hog intestine and sending the samples to Vancouver. Pederson examined their effects in dogs and guinea pigs and demonstrated that their purified extract was a new hormone. The result was his PhD thesis in 1970, and interest from other researchers.

Not that it was a large field. "In the early 1970s we'd have international meetings and there'd be 30 people there," Pederson says. "[John] was always front and centre and sort of pissing everybody off. He would stand up at a meeting and say 'you're full of crap'. In many ways he didn't understand how the system worked."

This abrasive side of Brown's character was matched by warmth and enthusiasm. "He also attracted people like a magnet," he says. Brown put a sign on his door: "If I'm going to be replaced by a robot, it's going to have to learn how to drink.

“We’d work all week, but our lab was party central on Friday

Professor

Tim Kieffer, top,

who worked

with both Ray

Pederson and

Joel Habener.

Dr Jens Juul Holst, above, accepting the Breakthrough Prize in Life Sciences in 2025.

afternoon," he says. "[John] would get a big jug of lab alcohol in a liquid nitrogen bottle, and we'd make these cocktails. So there's all kinds of radioactivity, and we'd sit around smoking and drinking.

Maybe a sense of humour forged in the shadows of Crook colliery did not translate well with the urbane Scandinavian and Californian researchers. Some “knew John, they dished it back to him”. But many did not. Camps were forming in the world of hormone research.

Brown and Pederson knew they

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'There's this undercurrent of politics in science. There's competition, and egos and power'

had a hormone, but not what it did. Another Canadian, John Dupre, suggested it might be the mythical incretin hormone, and during the 1970s, they demonstrated that GIP stimulated production of insulin.

They had demonstrated how your body tells you that you're full after you've eaten something. It took another four decades to work out how to make a drug to do the same thing. But there was still a gap – GIP didn't fully explain the amount of insulin the body produced.

By the early 1980s, technology had moved on – specifically DNA sequencing, which researchers working with endocrinologist Joel Habener at Massachusetts General Hospital used to identify a gene they discovered would make hormones that had yet to be isolated. They called one of them GLP-1.

Ray Pederson

was less effective. GLP-1 became the focus. That's not the only reason that GIP has been overlooked, Pederson believes. Mention the Dane to Pederson and there is some froideur. "There is this undercurrent of politics in science and it happens everywhere," he says. "There's egos, there's competition, there's power. I felt that in my career, it didn't suffer greatly, but it certainly did suffer because of the fact that I just was not prepared to get involved in many of these pissing contests."

Then Jens Juul Holst, a Danish medical doctor, did what Brown, Pederson and Dupre had done with GIP and showed that GLP-1 stimulated insulin in pig intestines.

Two hormones, each doing something similar. Which one was more important? The key moment came in 1993 when a team in Germany, working under Werner Creutzfeldt, compared the effects of the two hormones in nine patients with type 2 diabetes. GIP

While Pederson has enjoyed his retirement on an academic's pension, Holst has had more acclamation. The Dane, along with Habener and three others, was awarded the Breakthrough Prize in Life Sciences in 2025. He was scientific director of the Novo Nordisk Foundation Centre for Basic Metabolic Research at the University of Copenhagen from 2010 to 2020, at a time the company was translating GLP-1 research into diabetes medicines that led to Ozempic, and then Wegovy.

Holst's book, The Story of GLP-1, mentions Brown briefly and Pederson not at all. (Holst did not provide comment for this story.)

The last time the two men saw each other was in 2015. Tim Kieffer, who was Pederson's first PhD student, arranged a conference to mark the history of the discovery of GIP. Kieffer spent time in Habener's lab as well. "I may be the only one who trained with the people who discovered GIP then with the people who discovered GLP-1," he says.

Which hormone does Kieffer think is most important? Habener would have said GLP-1, he says. Each milligram of GLP-1 makes more insulin than GIP. But after a meal, the body produces only a small amount of GLP-1, whereas GIP increases dramatically.

For the conference, Kieffer commissioned both Pederson and Holst to write accounts of GIP's discovery for the Journal of Diabetes Investigation. Pederson's version included some of the people involved; Holst drew unflattering contrasts between GIP and GLP-1, rankling his rival. By this time Brown was ill, and he died in 2016.

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James Tapper's Science Observer

When Pederson sees Eli Lilly's extraordinary profits – it sold \$23bn worth of Mounjaro in 2025 alone – based on a drug that mimics both GLP-1 and GIP, does he wonder if he could have taken a different path?

"When you see a drug that you helped develop make billions of dollars, you think it would have been nice to have a slice of that. But it's not an all-consuming thing...

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“By today’s standards, using pretty primitive tools, we were able to discover a hormone. When I pick up a physiology textbook, it’s there, and I feel proud of that.”

He is also proud of his work in diabetes research, which led to the emergence of DPP-4 drugs that have made diabetics' lives much easier.

Even in his last week at work, he was at the lab bench. “I love science, and that’s where I want to be, in the lab,” he says. Brown did set up a biotech company in a different area, but Pederson feels it did not make his mentor happy: “I think he found out that money is just money.”

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Saving is a good start. What comes next?

With housing costs and monthly bills taking up a large chunk of people's income, simply managing to put a bit of money aside each month can feel like a major achievement

No matter what you're into.

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Prepare your finances for the year ahead

Cash savings play an important role in helping people feel more secure financially. Having money set aside in a cash savings account can help protect you against an unexpected bill or expense such as a boiler breaking down or car repairs, or if you find yourself out of work.

But do you have a longer-term plan for the money you're setting aside? Perhaps to provide for yourself in retirement or to help your children as they go through life?

Investing could help you achieve these goals by delivering long-term growth on your money. Even putting away a small amount each month could, over time, grow into a substantial nest egg. Saving and investing don't need to be an “either/or”.

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Are you already an investor?

You may not think of yourself as an investor and you wouldn't be alone. Just 36% of UK adults agreed with the statement “investing is for someone like me”, according to a recent ISA Barometer report from industry body the Investment Association.

You may associate investing with a wealthy professional who has extensive financial knowledge and large sums of money to set aside. But in fact, this is far from the case.

“More than eight in 10 workers now pay into a workplace pension, meaning investing is already part of everyday financial life for most households,” says John Owen, chief executive of the Investment Association.

Investing beyond a pension may feel like a bigger step though, which is natural. "We know from the Barclays Investment Readiness

'£1,000 in cash savings would be worth £595 in real terms after 20 years, compared with £1,216 had it been invested'

'There are many investment platforms and accounts that let you start with as little as £1'

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You don't have to be an expert to benefit.

Index that the perception that investing is too complicated is one of the main barriers holding back non-investors," says Sasha Wiggins, Chair of the Invest for the Future Campaign and Chief Executive, Private Bank and Wealth Management at Barclays.

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How can investing help you achieve your goals?

"Investing really is for the long term," says Wiggins. "Whether it is home ownership or a comfortable retirement, investing can help achieve those financial ambitions."

There are a whole range of ways people can start investing and it doesn't necessarily mean picking your own stocks and shares. Some platforms will offer ready-made portfolios, so you don't even have to choose your own investments.

If you're saving money in a cash account each month, perhaps some of that money is in a Cash ISA, which means that any interest you earn is tax-free.

But what's also available to savers in the UK is a Stocks and Shares ISA. With a Stocks and Shares ISA, you can invest your money without paying UK tax on any potential growth on your investments.

Investing offers the potential for higher long-term growth than money earning interest in cash savings accounts, although in the short-term your money might fluctuate.

"It is natural to feel nervous about investments going up and down, but it's important to remember that investing is a long-term commitment," says Owen. "The key is to think about when you'll need the money, and the longer you can leave it invested, the more time it has to grow." In fact, the top reason why people have a Stocks and Shares ISA is because they believe that investing will give a better long-term return than a Cash ISA, stated by $54\%$ of holders in the ISA Barometer report.

About 51% of Stocks and Shares ISA investors say their goal is to save for retirement, highlighting how investing can form part of longer-term financial planning.

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A recent report by Barclays bank, titled The Missed Opportunity of Not Investing, found that from 2004 to 2024, money held in an average cash savings account would have reduced in value by 40.5%, once the effects of inflation are accounted for – even including interest paid on those cash savings.

In contrast, Wiggins explains, money “invested

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'Providers offer diversified funds that invest across different companies, countries or asset types to spread risk'

in a diversified investment portfolio of UK assets would have grown by more than 20%” – even after typical fees of 0.8% were applied.

That means £1,000 in cash savings would be worth £595 in real terms after 20 years, compared with £1,216 had it been invested.

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You don't need a lot to start investing

Investing is not just for the wealthy and doesn't mean committing with a large lump sum. You don't need a financial adviser to get started, although some might appreciate guidance from an adviser before making any investment decisions.

You can get started with either a lump sum amount or set up a regular payment, such as £50 a month, and build your investment up over time.

One in five UK adults (21%) said they were likely to start with a small, regular investment of £10 to £50 in 2026, according to the Investment Association's figures.

The benefit of investing little and often is that you can start small while you feel more comfortable and familiar with investing – particularly if you've never seen it as something that applies to you before.

Even starting with small amounts, there's also the potential impact of compounding over time. If your investments generate returns and those returns are reinvested, they have the opportunity to build further.

As an illustration, if you'd invested £50 a month into a typical global equity fund over five years to the end of 2025, it would have been

worth £3,906, according to calculations from the Investment Association. That's £900 more than had the money been kept in cash in a bank account.

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Decide the next step that's right for you

If investing still feels unfamiliar, there's no need to make a decision immediately. Your first step might simply be to learn more about how investing differs from saving, and whether it's suitable for your own life goals, once you've built a rainy-day fund.

Invest for the Future is an initiative bringing together 20 leading banks and investment companies to provide information for people who save but don't currently invest. The aim is to make investing easier to understand and help people explore whether it could have a place in their longer-term financial plans.

Wiggins puts it simply: “This campaign is not about telling people what they should do with their money. It is about helping people feel more informed, more confident and better equipped to understand whether investing could play a role in helping them achieve their long-term financial goals.”

You might ultimately decide investing isn't right for you right now. Or you might decide that putting a small amount away regularly for a long-term goal such as retirement or helping children financially is worth exploring.

Search "Take the Next Step. Invest." to find the next step that's right for you.

First person

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Ranulph Fiennes took me on a global caper. It’s hard to imagine him ‘isolated’

As concern grows for the veteran explorer's welfare, Giles Whittell recalls the joys of his continent-hopping seven-day marathon quest

First it was family, then friends, then royalty, then the police. The list of concerned parties in what has become a national hunt for Britain's best-known living explorer is long.

Ranulph Fiennes, who suffers from Parkinson's disease and dementia, is thought to be living in a remote farmhouse somewhere in the UK with his second wife, Louise Millington-Cotes, who has power of attorney to make decisions about his care.

The farmhouse could be the one on Exmoor where Fiennes has lived for decades, but few people know for certain and a lot of people want to. He has not been seen in public for two years.

His wife's estranged son, Alexander Millington-Cotes, contacted the press after hearing that he had been living in a series of care homes under assumed names. Inspectors alerted by a care provider in Wales concluded that he was being “deprived of his liberty unlawfully”.

The idea of Ran Fiennes being deprived of liberty by anyone is upsetting and hard to fathom. I can't claim to be a close friend, but for two years, in another life, we were thrown together by one of his wilder schemes and we seemed to hit it off.

In the spring of 2003, Fiennes had had his chest cut open for double bypass surgery after a heart attack. He blamed it on eating whole packs of butter to sustain his calorie intake during long Antarctic winters.

The surgery went well, so six months later it seemed only natural to accept an invitation from his friend Dr Mike Stroud to run seven marathons on seven continents in seven days. They were doing it to raise money for the British Heart Foundation; I went along for the Times, and for the ride.

We started in the Concorde lounge at Heathrow. Roger Moore strolled in with a small entourage and Fiennes let it be known that he'd auditioned in front of Albert Broccoli for the part of James Bond before Moore had.

Fiennes was always more of a real-life Bond. In the next 10 days we tried and failed to land in Antarctica in a propeller plane because a Chilean air force Hercules wouldn't vacate the runway. We turned back half an hour south of Cape Horn and consoled ourselves with cocktails on a private jet to the Falklands so that Fiennes and Stroud could run a marathon there instead.

We did three long laps of Sydney Harbour and practically ground to a halt in the clammy heat of Singapore. “Our muscles are literally breaking up,” said Stroud, then 48, who by this time was urinating

blood and lagging far behind Fiennes (then 59).

He was welcomed as a “messenger of peace” by Egypt’s tourist minister at the great pyramids of Giza at midnight. Curious well-wishers cheered him on along the route of the

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Giles Whittell with Ranulph Fiennes, right, and Mike Stroud, left, leaving the Falklands in style in 2003. Times Newspapers Ltd

1908 London Olympics marathon through Windsor and Eton.

The seventh marathon was New York's, which Fiennes and Stroud ran with tens of thousands of others. I got a migraine five minutes into it, jogging over the Verrazzano-Narrows bridge, but it was worth it. BA was a sponsor and we went business or first class on every flight.

At one point Fiennes's first wife, Ginny, phoned to ask how he was bearing up. I took the call and told her he was doing well. If only the same could have been said for her. When the whole caper was over and Fiennes got back to her at the farm they shared with a herd of Aberdeen Angus, he knew at once something was wrong. They drove straight to London. Ginny was diagnosed with stomach cancer the next day and never returned home.

“Life is now one big, black void,” Fiennes told me afterwards. “Now I just want to work.” Which at least partly explains why, a few months later, we were drinking tea in an Italian hut halfway up a 4,000-metre peak near Zermatt, in training for a trip up Everest. He said he wanted to conquer a fear of heights. I wondered if he wanted to push his heart to the limit and beyond.

“Friends told me the passing of time would help,” he said. “They may be right, but time is not yet working its magic for me.”

Fiennes married Millington-Cotes before he set off for Nepal the following spring. She has said she doesn't want to be approached and so I didn't for this story, but I met them in the tea room of the Ritz in 2005 to talk about Everest. It's fair to say Millington-Cotes was already extremely protective of him. She wanted to be sure coverage of the expedition was positive. Abandoning professional detachment, I did my best to reassure her.

In the end I didn't go. A much better writer did and she wrote hilarious accounts of men doing masochistic things in the death zone in Tibet.

Two decades on, Cheshire police say they are satisfied that Fiennes is in an appropriate setting, with suitable care. But the King has tried to write to him and allegedly been rebuffed. Anton Bowring, a fellow explorer, has been admonished by Millington-Cotes for passing her husband's contact details to Buckingham Palace.

Last week, Ginny's sister told ITV that Fiennes's apparent isolation was "heartbreaking, for him as well as us [because] we want to see him, take him Toblerones and Mars bars, buoy his spirits".

As a humble scribbler who had far too much fun whenever our paths crossed, I can only say: hang in there, Ran, and thanks for all the upgrades.

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Wagyu crisps? It's a high-steaks gamble for Japan's boeuf du jour

Patrick Kidd

When it comes to selling posh crisps, upmarket adjectives count. So when the Co-op was after snacks for the Christmas market, mere “beef” wouldn’t do. This year the beef is wagyu, the expensive Japanese breed. Or “cooked wagyu beef powder”, the penultimate ingredient between paprika and smoked maltodextrin. What do you expect for £1.75?

Wagyu beef might cost you £100 for a fillet steak at a good butcher, but the brand is entering the mainstream at a fraction of the cost. Burger King sells a wagyu burger for £8.99.

The breed didn't leave Japan until the 1970s and won attention for the supposed pampering of the cattle. In recent years, interest in the product has exploded in Britain. In 2023 35,000 wagyu-sired calves were born here, a $1,378\%$ increase on 2014.

So prolific has the meat become at the cheaper end of the market that some British producers are keen to promote the pleasant lifestyle of their herds, which affects taste and price. Andrew Knowles, from Trenchmore Farm in West Sussex, says its herd are sucklers that graze in the fields over the summer. He has crossbred wagyu with Sussex and Angus cows since 2013, aimed at restaurants. "There is a risk if the wagyu market goes into oversupply that the premium it will command will evaporate," he said.

A fillet steak of marbled wagyu beef might cost £100 at a good butcher.

Others are now shunning the beef. Alex Keys, of Farmer Tom Jones, a London butcher, warns it has become ubiquitous. “That fatty marbling looks good on Instagram but if the human body looked like that it would mean all sorts of health problems.”

The business prefers to deal with native breeds that are given a lot of love. “It’s not the cow, it’s the how,” Keys said. “We have one producer in Northumberland who keeps his cows outdoors, feeds them on a 25-plant silage mix and it has fantastic taste.”

In the fields of his Tonbridge constituency, the shadow foreign secretary tells Rachel Sylvester about his fears over China and his support for Kemi Badenoch, and why Labour is wrong about a ‘far-right nostalgic vision’ of Britain

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The Observer Walk Tom Tugendhat

MAP BY ELLIE WINTOUR

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'My wife promised me we'd get a labrador. Now I find out they're fascist'

W

hen Tom Tugendhat is meeting foreign diplomats or dignitaries,

he takes them on a walk. Most politicians have favourite spots for lunch; the shadow foreign secretary has preferred routes. "You talk differently on a walk," he says. "I normally walk around St James's Park. I've spent a lot of time walking around parks in Paris and gardens in Berlin. I was with an Austrian minister last year walking around Vienna. There were lots of interesting spots in Iraq and Afghanistan. I did some great walks in Yemen. It's much easier to get into conversations with people if you're walking next to them than if you're sitting across from them."

I have always wondered whether the habit comes from his military background. Tugendhat was an intelligence officer in the British Army before going into politics. "I haven't thought of it like that," he says, brushing aside questions about undercover operations on walks. "You're luring me down lines I'm not going to go down."

There are – as far as I know – no dead drops on our stroll across the fields in Tugendhat's constituency of Tonbridge, Kent. We meet at Hever station and set off towards Edenbridge. The MP lives around the corner. "This is my walk to church on Sunday," he says. "I find it clears my mind."

We go through a gate warning of cows with calves. An oast house comes into view, surrounded by oak trees. “There’s a reason why Kent is known as the ‘Garden of England,’” Tugendhat says. “It’s the county of warm beer and black labradors.” These were the two things highlighted by a Labour minister last week as symbols of a “far-right nostalgic vision” of Britain, but the shadow foreign secretary finds the culture they represent comforting. “It’s gentle and it’s true, and it’s homely,” he says. “My wife promised me for our engagement that I’d get a labrador and, 13 years later, we still haven’t got one. Now I find out from a minister that labradors are fascist.”

His time as a soldier was less reassuring. Tugendhat served in two wars, Iraq and Afghanistan, and almost died on “several occasions”. One time, when he was working

as an adviser to the governor of Helmand province in Afghanistan, “a suicide bomber came into my office and killed the people I was working with and blew the hell out of the building”. He only survived because he had popped next door. “There’s a lot of luck in life,” he says. “I got blown up by Iraqis. That took a piece out of my chin. We were invading their country, and they weren’t very happy about it.”

He speaks five languages “and can just about understand what’s going on in another few”. He is “pretty good” in French and Italian. “My Arabic’s OK. I used to be able to work in Persian and Pashtu. I did a year of Japanese but it never really stuck. I can understand German and I get by in Dutch.” The qualities he learned as a soldier that are useful in politics include “self-discipline and not to get too riled”.

We cross into another field, avoiding the newly planted crops. Tugendhat was appointed shadow foreign secretary by Kemi Badenoch in August as part of a reshuffle designed to put the Tories on an election footing. Before that, he was not planning to go to the Conservative conference. Now

he will be making a speech. As a linguist, he is well qualified but he insists: “The job isn’t speaking languages – it’s trying to get the best out of foreigners to deliver for Britain.” He despises the idea of diplomacy based on moral values. “The so-called ‘ethical foreign policy’ is rubbish,” he says. “It’s vapid, because the truth is, what another country wants and what we need are different things.”

Ed Miliband promised to stand up “for what is right” around the world when he announced sanctions on illegal Israeli settlements in the West Bank. Tugendhat did not buy it. “His politics is entirely transactional,” he says. “He’s trying to make deals within the leftwing coalition, the so-called ‘progressive parties’. What I think is ethical is standing up for the British people. Every embassy is paid for by British taxpayers. So you had better be damn sure you are getting the best for them.”

We stop by a tree where bees are buzzing around a nest. Tugendhat stood twice for the Tory leadership, representing the centrist one-nation wing of the party. He is socially liberal and voted Remain in the Brexit referendum. Badenoch is

a staunch Brexiteer who recently introduced an ideological purity test for Conservative candidates requiring them to oppose net zero and support withdrawing from the European convention on human rights (ECHR).

Tugendhat had no qualms about rejoining the front bench. “I’ve gone back because I think it matters,” he says, striding off across the field. “Kemi’s demonstrating the kind of leadership that the country needs. I think she’s doing really well, and I feel a responsibility to help her.”

He is happy to sign up to the Tory leader's conditions. "She hasn't said she doesn't believe in climate change. She's just said – and I think it's true – that net zero in one country is like socialism in one country. It's absurd. It doesn't work. All you do is impoverish yourself for no gain." As for the ECHR, "most of it is UK law, anyway, so what you're talking about is the application of it, not the principles behind it", Tugendhat says. "I think what Kemi is doing is a perfectly orthodox Conservative message."

We walk through a small area of woodland, alongside a stream. Andy Burnham used his conference speech to call for more cross-party collaboration on issues such as social care and electoral reform. "He's doing the old political trick of saying this isn't politics. Here's a really contentious political idea that you must agree with. Of course social care should be reformed. But his answer is to nationalise social care and to make kids pay for it."

Photograph by Tom Pilston

In fact the prime minister is proposing to amend the pension triple lock that is set to cost an extra £11bn at today's rates by the end of the next decade. Tugendhat last year described the triple lock as "simply not affordable". So does he agree with Burnham and disagree with Badenoch, who has promised to keep the pensioner benefit? "I'm focused on foreign policy," he replies. "I have my own views about many things, but if you want to join a team, you've got to make sure that you work as part of the team."

We emerge into another neatly ploughed field. A single tree stands majestically alone in the middle. Britain is starting to look dangerously isolated in an unstable world, detached from Europe and abandoned by an unreliable US. Tugendhat insists it is important to have a sense of perspective about Donald Trump. It is, he says, “an illusion that America has ever been anything other than what it is. America is an extremely important partner who views things through its own lens. Those of us who’ve served alongside Americans in combat knew that very clearly. There are American decisions taken for American reasons, and we may agree, or we may disagree, but that’s the pattern.”

Trump seems different from previous presidents, though. He has no respect for the rules-based world order or international institutions, including Nato. He has threatened to invade Greenland, backed a united Ireland and questioned British sovereignty over the Falkland Islands. “He has his own ways of expressing himself,” Tugendhat says. “I don’t find it helpful... but we’ve got to work with him. You can be rude about the American president if you want. Then you can watch investments in the United Kingdom fall, our security be endangered, intelligence sharing damaged. Or you can be honest and say: ‘There’s ups and downs in every relationship.’”

red kite soars overhead. "The Battle of Britain memorial flight goes over here from Biggin Hill," the MP says. "It's

extraordinary to see birds of prey and Spitfires dancing in the skies over Kent." Tugendhat is a China hawk and one of the MPs who was sanctioned by Beijing. Keir Starmer announced earlier this year that the sanctions had been lifted but the shadow foreign secretary has had no confirmation. "The Labour party didn't listen to Starmer – I don't see why Xi Jinping should," he says. "Could I go to China? I think it would be really unwise."

There is no doubt, he says, that the Chinese government has tried to hack into his computer and intimidate him. “Every now and again, if I do something that annoys them, I’ll get a few letters from Beijing or Shanghai, which say rude things. It’s basically: ‘We know where you live.’ Sometimes they’re hand-delivered,” he says. “I think they are behaving in an unbelievably hostile way.”

He thinks there is a strong probability that Covid was created

Tom Tugendhat in the fields outside Edenbridge in his Tonbridge constituency.

by Chinese scientists. “I have no doubt that the pandemic began in Wuhan. Do I think they meant to do it on purpose? No. But I’m almost certain it came out of that laboratory,” he says. “Dictatorships are built on fear. So nobody said anything early enough, and by the time they found out what had happened and where it was from, it was way too late to ask for help and sort it out. And then there was a massive cover-up.”

The economic threat from Beijing is, in his view, just as great. “Forget about whether they’re good, bad, evil, or whatever,” Tugendhat says. “They need to massively export, and the only way they can do that is by swamping the manufacturing systems of every other country.”

Last week, MI5 warned that academics had been involved in research that supports Chinese espionage. The real danger, Tugendhat says, is “one of control. Who controls what’s said in a British university? Already, there are universities which won’t talk about Uyghur genocides, or Xinjiang [the region where many Uyghurs live], or Tiananmen Square. They are so dependent on Chinese students that, if they don’t adapt, as they’d put it – silence themselves, as I’d put it – the Chinese embassy here threatens them that they won’t have any.”

He thinks it was a huge mistake for Labour to give approval for a new Chinese embassy on the edge of the City of London. “We shouldn’t open it. The government bluntly covered up a whole series of things which it has since admitted. It said concerns about cabling were completely rubbish. And the moment they gave approval, they said: ‘We’re going to have to spend millions of pounds moving the cables.’”

We turn on to the road and walk into Edenbridge, a pretty market town full of medieval buildings. It is a quintessentially English scene. The quiet calm of this high street in Kent could not be more different to the anti-migrant protesters who gathered in Dover late last month in the name of defending England. As we walk towards the station, I ask Tugendhat what he thought of the men dressed in black and wearing balaclavas. “I find all that really distasteful and wrong,” he replies. “It’s an undermining of who we are as a society. It really weakens us.”

The Tories must, he insists, align with the decent majority. “This county of Kent was colonised by the Jutes. My mum’s French. My wife’s French. My grandmother is from Ireland. My name comes from Austria. Our leader is Kemi Badenoch. Our former leader was Rishi Sunak... This country is made up of various different peoples.”

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'A shady deal with a shady character': America invites investors to help kickstart Venezuela's oil industry $\rightarrow$ Black gold rush, page 27

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Cornell gang rape accuser ‘under siege’ online as fresh culture war divides US

While conservative voices support and students condemn the seven men accused of assault, digital sleuths are seeking to unmask their purported victim, Ed Helmore writes

The alleged rape of a female student by seven fraternity members at New York's Cornell University has reopened America's culture war divide and reignited debate about consent, online judgment and victim blaming.

The allegation that a 20-year-old woman was subjected to an hours-long assault while her attackers bragged on social media and summoned fraternity brothers to join them has broken out of the Ivy League campus and on to the international stage. In the US, conservative commentators have leapt to defend the accused.

The case has divided social media since campus student newspaper The Cornell Daily Sun published the names of the accused last month. Photos of the men, dubbed the “Cornell Seven”, were posted online. All deny any wrongdoing, with some arguing sex was consensual and at least two denying any sexual contact.

“She’s under siege on social media where people are trying to identify her,” the victim’s lawyer, Thomas Giuffra, told CNN on Friday.

In retaliation, online sleuths began “doxxing” the victim, named only as Jane Doe, in an effort to unmask her. That prompted a social media counter movement last week, with hundreds of female students posting “I am Jane Doe” to shield her identity.

The case, and Cornell's handling of the allegation, has prompted claims that the university has a “rape culture problem”. Reports have highlighted past incidents, including an alleged assault and multiple allegations that victims were drugged at frat parties in 2022, which drove the university to suspend all fraternity social events.

Studies have found that up to 27% of undergraduate women experience nonconsensual sexual contact or rape at American universities. One former head of a New York university told The Observer that the situation at Cornell was “very typical”.

“Cornell has failed our community through its lack of accountability, transparency, and failure to address the state of the Cornell student body at this time,” Sophia Riley Sim, a junior, told the meeting at the student union.

In a 101-page civil lawsuit, filed last month, Jane Doe detailed how she went to visit a friend at Cornell's Chi Phi fraternity house one evening late in 2024.

“She’s a sophomore, and frequently it’s freshmen,” they said. “There are the athletes they look up to, who egg them on to drink or, in this case, take ketamine. So then the girl is so wasted she doesn’t know what happened. Then people talk. It’s complicated.”

Already intoxicated beyond the point of consent, she claims that her friend and one of his fraternity brothers proposed a threesome. They plied her with marijuana and rum, she said, and pressured her to snort a white powder claimed to be ketamine.

'This woman was failed by people and institutions with an obligation to protect her'

Kathy Hochul, NY governor

While the row rages online, at Cornell itself the mood on campus was sombre last week. But at a student assembly, simmering anger at the university's handling of the case boiled over. Reports that the university initially allowed the accused men to submit “essays to mitigate their conduct”, rather than pursuing a criminal investigation, has fuelled the uproar among fellow students.

As the assault unfolded, a third man joined in. One of the men then messaged a group chat named “Chi Phi Actives”, telling members that there was “free pussy” at the frat house. Later, someone asked, “Shop still open?” “Yeah,” another responded with a devil emoji, and later added: “Boys come whip it out.”

“I fucking love Chi Phi,” one posted.

she saw other students in an online forum discussing the incident as rape.

Records of the original investigation, first reported by the New York Times, revealed how the woman's initial embarrassment at the incident evolved into a conviction that she had been assaulted. She exchanged friendly texts with some of the men. When one apologised that the night had "got way out of hand", she reassured him that "non (sic) of the sexual stuff was illegal".

Police declined to bring charges, arguing that the woman's statement "described her participation in drug use and sexual conduct as voluntary, conscious, and consensual".

Friends said Jane Doe was “in shock” and “not understanding the gravity of what she was saying”, until

“That’s the first time I had ever heard the narrative change that I wasn’t a whore and that I was assaulted,” she told investigators.

Tompkins County district attorney Matthew Van Houten pleaded last week that his office had not received the group chat messages at the time. The latest revelations have brought renewed finger-pointing between police and officials at Cornell.

“It has become clear that we were not provided the full picture by the university,” Van Houten said.

Responding to the growing outrage, New York governor Kathy Hochul appointed state attorney general Letitia James as special prosecutor to reopen the criminal case last week. Hochul, who is running for re-election next month, said she moved to act after learning “troubling details” about how authorities have handled the woman’s claims.

“This woman had already endured something that is utterly unspeakable, and then at every turn she was failed by people and institutions with an obligation to protect her,” Hochul said.

Hochul has vowed to close the “voluntary intoxication loophole” in New York rape law. But the case has prompted a backlash among right-wing commentators and the so-called “manosphere”, the online network of influencers and chat forums that promote masculinity and misogyny.

“She said she was fine with it until she suddenly wasn’t,” conservative podcast host Clay Travis said on his show last week. “This is a retroactive rape charge.”

The involvement of James, who brought a fraud case against Donald Trump and his family in 2022, was enough to goad the president into joining the debate on Friday. Denouncing the prosecutor as a “corrupt person”, Trump suggested that the students being investigated by James “won’t get a fair shake”.

"I feel badly for whoever she's looking at," the president told reporters outside the White House, though he admitted he knew little of the case.

“Cornell is a fine school, and I’m sure they’ll do what’s right,” he added.

Students at Cornell University, above; Jane Wung and Sophia Riley Sim this week talking at a student assembly meeting about sexual violence on campus. Matt Rourke/AP

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largest lake,

visible at the end

of a residential

street in the city

of Cabimas.

Gaby Oraa/Bloomberg

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Oil giants gather to feast while Trump calls the shots in scramble for Venezuela's riches

A black gold rush is drawing entrepreneurs and wildcatters to Caracas, eager to tap into the country's vast US-controlled reserves

Thomas Graham

Caracas

On the golf courses and in the steak houses of Caracas last week, it was just like old times.

“Venezuela is the place to be,” said Erik Keskula, a director at the Qatari company UCC Oil and Gas Holding, observing the excited throng at the Marriott hotel in Venezuela’s capital.

“We’re here to make money,” he went on, before adding: “But we’re also here to try to improve the places we operate.”

Keskula was among hundreds of oil executives who jetted into Venezuela for the first big oil and gas conference since Donald Trump's administration seized the country's leader, Nicolás Maduro, in January. As the White House turns Venezuela into a de facto client state and takes control of its vast oil reserves, a new gold rush has descended on Caracas.

At the Marriott, which has become an unofficial US embassy and a hive of dealmaking between these new prospectors, executives from the world's oil giants mingled with survivors of Venezuela's once titanic oil industry and independent wildcatters, looking for the high-risk bet that could make them a fortune.

“We hired our CEO for Venezuela,” said Keskula. “He asked me what we’re interested in and I just said, ‘Yes’. We’re interested in it all.”

But amid the expectant mood among the delegates and the chatter about contracts and deals, no one was in any doubt who is in charge.

“There’s always give and take in negotiations,” said one attendee from the city of Maracaibo, once the engine of Venezuela’s oil industry. “And the Americans are more take than give,” he added with a laugh.

Trump has basked in the success of his operation in Venezuela, which saw Maduro and his wife snatched in a pre-dawn raid by US special forces. The president has bragged repeatedly of his “historic” deal to control the country’s 300bn barrels of proven oil reserves and paraded gold bars from Venezuela in the Oval Office.

"To the victor belong the spoils," the president gloated during his address to the UN general assembly the week before the conference.

Among the New York audience was Delcy Rodríguez, Maduro's vice-president, who has traded American control of Venezuela's natural resources for her own political survival and that of the regime she now leads. Underscoring his point, Trump reminded Rodríguez and other world leaders of Washington's "unmatched military might".

As the executives settled into their seats at the Marriott, Michael García, deputy chief of mission at the US embassy in Caracas, struck a more diplomatic tone. He stressed the White House's plan to stabilise Venezuela's economy before eventually calling elections, and hailed Venezuela's “renewed willingness to negotiate” with US companies.

"The direction is unmistakable," he said. "Where there was stagnation, there is now investment. And where foreign adversaries once held lease rights to Venezuela's future, American and Venezuelan companies are now riding that future together."

That overstates it. A few oil majors have already announced deals, including Chevron, which will invest \$7bn to double its current production in Venezuela, and the Italian giant Eni, which signed a contract to operate a massive field in the Orinoco belt.

But others remain hesitant to pour billions of dollars into a country that, in some cases, still owes them similar sums from 2007, when Venezuela's former leader, leftwing firebrand Hugo Chávez, nationalised the oil industry and stripped foreign companies of control of their projects. Those who refused to take minority stakes were kicked out of the country.

For all the deal buzz at the Marriott, the technical challenge of what lies ahead is immense. Experts estimate it could cost more than \$100bn and take a decade to restore Venezuela's oil production from roughly 1m barrels a day back to the 3m of its heyday.

The infrastructure is in ruins after years of mismanagement and US sanctions, compounded by the devastating earthquake in June. Outside Caracas, much of the country endures blackouts for eight hours a day.

Delcy Rodriguez, Venezuela's acting president, at the UN general assembly.

To jumpstart the new investment, the Trump administration announced a colossal deal with North American Blue Energy Partners (Nabep), a private Venezuelan oil company, at the end of August. Nabep is run by Alejandro Betancourt, a young oil baron and billionaire, who is currently living in the UK, fighting extradition

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'There's always give and take in negotiations – and the Americans are more take than give' Venezuelan delegate

to Switzerland and under investigation for alleged money laundering in several countries. He has denied any wrongdoing and has never been convicted of a crime.

Under the deal announced by the White House, the Pentagon has taken a 35% stake in Nabep, which in turn signed a 100-year deal with Venezuela to develop 17 oil fields, holding 65bn barrels of oil. The state department will be able to buy 20% of them at production cost, far below the market price.

“Trump wants this to happen, fast,” said Phil Gunson, a Caracas-based analyst for Crisis Group. “So his administration determined that they can kickstart the process by a rather

– to say the least – shady deal, with a shady character.”

Venezuelan law does not allow concessions longer than 25 years, but that appears irrelevant in the new Wild West of Caracas.

“That deal is completely illegal,” said one Venezuelan executive at the conference, who did not want to be named. The kidnap of Maduro, “was just the tip of the iceberg” in the Trump administration’s plan for control of the country. “We’re a US protectorate,” he added.

Speakers who took to the stage at the Marriott included Hunter Hunt, the Texan chief executive of Hunt Energy, a family-owned oil firm that operates in high-risk markets such as Yemen and Iraq.

"As my father likes to say, a deal's not a good deal unless it's good for both sides," said Hunt. "Because [if not] it's just a matter of time before somebody comes back to the table and says it's not working."

Venezuelans will have to take his word for it. So far, little has been made public about any of the deals being signed. While the Trump administration and the oil majors carve up the country, lesser known companies hunt for a piece of the action.

"These deals are being negotiated behind closed doors, and the terms are usually not made public," said Gunson.

The greatest risk to the revival of Venezuela's oil industry is one that moderators on stage did not want to discuss: politics. Every deal signed today rests on the uneasy accord between Trump and Rodríguez. With Democrats favoured to take back control of Congress in US midterm elections next month and Trump set to leave the White House in two years, it is uncertain how much of the new Venezuela policy will survive him.

Trump's move to prop up the remnants of the Maduro regime is widely unpopular. Many Venezuelans crave an election and the popular opposition leader María Corina Machado has already questioned the legitimacy of deals signed with Rodríguez.

“They keep talking about change,” said a former engineer from Venezuela’s state oil company. “But the change we want is for this government to go.”

Outside, delivery drivers watched as the oil executives were whisked away to their next meetings. Nothing has improved for ordinary Venezuelans since January, said one called Rafael.

“But if even 10% of what they’re planning comes to be,” he added, “maybe we’ll be a rich country again.”

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Putin's African recruits: the Kenyans lured into fighting Russia's war

As the Ukraine conflict approaches its sixth winter, hundreds of young men who believed they were starting civilian jobs are finding themselves instead on the battlefield. Francisco Garcia reports

At first, Stephen doesn't seem like the most talkative source. A Kenyan man in his early thirties, he has recently returned from the war in eastern Ukraine. In the living room of his family home in Nairobi, a series of framed photos sits along the back wall, including one with his beaming young daughter. But the most striking is a faded image of Stephen in military fatigues, aged 19. It shows the day of his graduation as a member of the Kenya Air Force.

After a decade of service, Stephen – not his real name – left in the early 2020s to sell spare car parts. Business was good until last year, when his premises was looted in a wave of unrest that followed Kenya’s 2024 Gen-Z protests. “I had to start again,” Stephen says. “[One opportunity] came soonest, so I took it.” An advert appeared online offering well-paid security guard work in Russia. There would be a hefty signing bonus and a salary translating to around £3,000 a month.

Weeks later, Stephen was in Vovchansk, a mostly destroyed town in north-east Ukraine. “[This] was war,” Stephen knew. But nothing had prepared him for the scale of the bloodshed or the thin whine of drones that stalked his every move.

Weeks later, Stephen triggered a landmine which ripped through the right-side of his body. He suffered deep shrapnel wounds and internal bleeding between his chest wall and lungs. On medical leave in St Petersburg at the start of this year, he hatched an escape plan. After approaching a friendly contact at the Kenyan embassy, a flight home was organised, paid for with Stephen's wages.

Stephen is one of hundreds of Kenyans – and several thousand other Africans – who have travelled to fight in Vladimir Putin's war over the past year. Some have done so willingly. Others have been misled by the promise of civilian jobs.

This line between willing and duped is often blurred. Kenya's National Intelligence Service estimates that well over 1,000 Kenyan nationals have travelled to fight for Russia in Ukraine. Several dozen have been killed. Many more are being held in Ukrainian prisoner of war camps with little immediate prospect of returning home. A few, like Stephen, have come back to tell their stories.

As the war in Ukraine approaches its sixth winter, Russia is losing an estimated 30,000 soldiers a month and both sides have become increasingly reliant on foreign fighters to plug the gaps in their armed forces. Most are from poorer countries. More than 7,000 Colombians have joined the Ukrainian war effort and perhaps 2,000 are fighting on the Russian side as mercenaries.

Thousands more have swelled Russian ranks from its ex-Soviet republics, along with a steady flow from North Korea. The Kremlin's rationale is clear: almost anything is preferable to imposing a politically and demographically costly mobilisation of Russian citizens.

Putin's African recruits have prompted the most vivid headlines. From South Africa to Togo and Cameroon, a sophisticated network of recruiters has kept African labour flowing to the Russian frontline. Freshly published research by Code for Africa, an investigative NGO, shows how these recruiters have advertised on Meta and TikTok.

Some posts are “casting calls” seeming to offer work as actors and film extras in Russia. Others are more straightforward. “Military contract in Russia,” runs one targeting Ivory Coast earlier this month.

Kenya has been badly hit. Anger at the country's dire economic situation has been building for some time, prompting a government-backed drive to send Kenyan workers abroad. More than 400,000 have travelled to Europe, the US and the Middle East in the past decade. Remittances from workers abroad are worth £7.7bn to the Kenyan economy, but many become trapped in exploitative conditions.

“Everyone now tries to look for opportunities where they can get them, even the riskiest places,

Countries with recruits who joined Russia in the war on Ukraine

Number of foreign fighters

Fewer than 100 100-499 500-999 More than 1,000 including Russia," says Ndindi Nyoro, an opposition MP. "People feel they are already in a corner here, economically speaking."

Source: I Want to Live project - Ministry of Defence of Ukraine and Defence Intelligence of Ukraine

Protests by the families of Kenyans trapped on the frontline in Ukraine have brought growing public pressure. In February Kenya's foreign minister, Musalia Mudavadi, travelled to Moscow for talks with his Russian counterpart, Sergei Lavrov. No more Kenyans, they agreed, would be taking up arms for Russia, voluntarily or otherwise. Since then, more than 600 Kenyan recruitment agencies have been closed.

The most high-profile case has centred on Festus Arasa Omwamba, the head of an agency called Global Faces Human Resources. The 33-year-old was arrested in February trying to cross the Ethiopian border after 22 Kenyans were discovered in an apartment complex waiting to travel to Russia. Omwamba pleaded not guilty to human trafficking charges and was bailed earlier this year. His whereabouts are currently unknown.

Three other Kenyan men recruited by Omwamba's company did make it to the frontlines. One of them was Stephen. First came the job advert, then the rapid procurement of a visa and a plane ticket to St Petersburg via Istanbul. On arrival he was met by a Russian contact whose name seemed to keep changing. "I knew him as Rizwan," Stephen says. "Others knew him as Ali. [We] went to his apartment to eat... the next morning, we left."

After opening bank accounts, they were sent on a journey of several 'I told my commander I didn't want to fight Ukrainians. But he said, we gave you food. You can't refuse'

Dancan Chege

days to a military camp where they received three weeks of basic training. Then they were shipped to the front.

“I don’t want to be stereotypical [but] white people do not love Black people,” Stephen says. “[We] were the ones who were immediately sent out.”

As a former soldier, he thought he understood violence. The hundreds of unburied, often mutilated bodies on the battlefield disabused him of that. It was impossible to know how many people he saw killed, or even how many he killed himself, he says. Sleep was impossible. Rations of ammunition, food and even water were sporadic at best. Within days, the few survivors of his unit were reduced to eating termites. “We survived like that for two or three days until [our] drones dropped food for us”.

Families of Kenyan men recruited to fight in Ukraine hold pictures of their missing relatives, left. Anadolu/Getty Images

Dancan Chege, below, signed up for a driving job and ended up as a soldier.

After several weeks of combat, Stephen stumbled on to the landmine that left him hospitalised and gravely injured. Arriving back in Nairobi was “heavenly, the best feeling in the world. I have never been that happy”.

His elation was short-lived. Everything he earned was spent on his journey home. Still jobless, he struggles to afford the medication he needs to deal with his injuries.

Did he have any idea of what would happen, before his departure? Perhaps, he concedes, “security” might have involved guarding a military base, but he is adamant he didn’t know it would involve frontline combat.

It didn't take long for Dancan Chege to realise the truth. A wiry figure in his early thirties, he answered an advert for a well-paid driving job in Russia last summer. "I was thinking I will change our [situation]. I will go there and make things better here."

To raise the deposit demanded by the recruitment agency, Chege's mother took out a loan from a local co-operative. Like Stephen, he flew to Russia via Istanbul. He was given a gun and two weeks' basic training before arriving in war-shattered Donetsk, in eastern Ukraine. His new Russian employer was the Wagner Group, the notorious mercenary outfit. "I told my commander I didn't want to fight Ukrainians. I wanted to go back to my home country. But he said, 'We have given you training, given you food. You cannot refuse'."

The price for disobeying would be death. Chege tells a familiar story of constant drones, chaos and indiscriminate killing. Eventually, he secured medical leave after feigning-mental health issues. In Moscow, he absconded from hospital and bought a flight home after his mother sold the family cow. He was never paid.

Chege made a startling claim. Even now, after months of publicity about the fate of Kenyans who have travelled to Russia, he still gets messages from people keen to go. Several times a week, he fields requests from people wanting to be linked up to recruiters. "I tell them to just [go] away," he says.

Scan the QR code for the slow newscast to find out more

Was it possible that the covert military recruitment networks were still operational? While in Nairobi, we found several recent Facebook posts appearing to show at least two dozen young Kenyan men recently leaving Jomo Kenyatta International Airport for jobs in Russia. Recent recruitment ads offer lucrative agricultural and food processing jobs, using AI-generated templates similar to those used in the military ads documented by Code for Africa. Another post published last month depicts a group of smiling men being waved off for their departing flight. Their matching hoodies bear the logo for Wings Recruitment, a Nairobi-based agency, as well as BRICS Mobility, a Russian firm. There is no evidence that the advertised jobs are for anything other than civilian roles.

When we contacted Wings, we were told that while there were some unscrupulous people in their line of work, everything the firm does is above board and complies with Kenyan recruitment laws. At its offices in an upmarket Nairobi neighbourhood, a sign proudly declared its expertise in sending Kenyans abroad. There was no mention of Russia.

BRICS Mobility also declined to respond directly to questions about its connections to Wings, though it did offer to arrange an in-person visit to check on the conditions of its African workers if we could arrange Russian visas and media accreditation. The firm subsequently issued a press release on its website, warning that “unscrupulous recruitment and education agencies in African countries may be using our name”.

Stephen was not surprised that Kenyans are still willing to travel to Russia. There was an old proverb that got to the heart of it, he said. It was about a poor young boy hunting an elephant for its ivory. "If he kills the elephant, his poverty ends. If the elephant kills him, his poverty ends. Either way, his poverty has ended."

Additional reporting by Edwin Okoth. This article was supported by a grant from the Alameda Institute

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I'm all too familiar with how Whitehall views devolved powers. Good luck, Andy Michael Heseltine, page 33

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The first-past-the-post system was built for a two-party Britain. That era is over Andrew Rawnsley

As politics fragments, Andy Burnham's promise to overhaul elections is welcome. But what comes next is far from settled

At the 1951 election, Labour and the Conservatives had a combined vote share of nearly 97% and no one much complained about the electoral system. When British politics was truly a two-horse race, you could justify using first-past-the-post to select the government.

We now have a five-horse race in England and a six-horse one in Scotland and Wales. Perverse results ensue when you try to feed multiparty politics through a system built for a duopoly. Andy Burnham inherited a mammoth parliamentary majority from Sir Keir Starmer, but Labour's vote share at the 2024 election was only a whisker over a third of those who turned out. That loveless landslide was the most disproportionate result in Britain's experience of universal suffrage. The next election threatens to produce even more outlandish outcomes. When a handful of parties are scoring between $10\%$ and $30\%$ , small shifts in support can trigger massive swings in the seats won and lost. It is not impossible that a single-party government could take office with the support of just three in 10 of those who voted and two in 10 of the country as a whole. That will not feel legitimate and it will be rotten for public faith in democracy.

The arguments for retaining first-past-the-post have never felt weaker. Defenders used to justify the disproportionality of winner-takes-all on the grounds that it guaranteed strong and stable governments capable of decisive action. Yet two of our five most recent elections – in 2010 and 2017 – have produced hung parliaments. David Cameron had to scramble together a coalition with Nick Clegg which no one had actually voted for. Theresa May cobbled up an arrangement with the Democratic Unionist Party. Mr Burnham is the seventh leaseholder of Number 10 in just a decade. Not so strong and stable.

Of all the bold announcements made in his bravura speech to his party conference, the Labour leader's declaration of support for electoral reform has the potential to be the most transformative. He says that a new national commission will examine the options and he will contest the next election with a manifesto commitment to overhaul the electoral system “so that everyone’s vote counts and everyone’s voice is heard”. This means the next election could be the last ever fought using first-past-the-post. This prospect terrifies most Tories. They have already said they will boycott the commission and can be expected to be ferocious in their opposition to change.

"The next election could be the last ever fought using first-past-the-post." Leon Neal/Getty Images

The issue will expose Labour's internal divisions. While reform has become an increasingly popular cause within the party's ranks, support for it is by no means universal. “Terrible idea,” says one minister. “We’ll never have a majority Labour government again.” A different Labour MP warns that two years of wrangling over reform will be “a massive diversion for Andy when he’s got so many other big things to deal with”. Others shudder about a future of European-style coalitions and fear that proportional representation would ultimately encourage Labour to splinter into its underlying factions. Among the cabinet, John Healey, the chancellor, has a history of opposing reform. I’m told that Louise Haigh, the number two to the prime minister, and Anneliese Midgley, the chief whip, are sceptics.

Mr Burnham used to be one himself. He gives some credit to his recently deceased dad, Roy, for his conversion to the cause. Unlike his predecessors as Labour leader, he doesn't seem leery of coalition politics and consensus-building is a constant theme of his rhetoric. There's also shrewd calculation lurking behind this promise. "If your strategy is to unite the progressive bloc, it's a smart move," comments one Labour strategist. Along with his suggestion that the UK needs a closer relationship with the EU, promising electoral reform helps the Labour leader build "a progressive alliance" in the run-up to the next election and will likely make it easier to snag tactical votes from Greens, Lib Dems and others.

Precisely what transpires will be highly contingent on what kind of reform is proposed. Who will chair the commission? Who else will sit on it? What will be its precise remit? The future will be as clear as fog until Number 10 starts answering the key questions.

We do have some clues about what is in the prime minister's mind. Aides say that he regards it as “critical” that any new system retains the “constituency link”. That would rule out a move to the purely proportional systems used in some other countries such as Israel and the Netherlands. The prime minister's conference speech did not actually mention proportional representation. He spoke about “electoral reform”, a more elastic term.

Manchester under the Supplementary Vote system, where voters are invited to choose first and second preference candidates. If no candidate receives more than 50% of first preferences, the top two continue to a run-off. It incentivises politicians to reach out to supporters of other parties and encourages positive campaigning. It's certainly not proportional.

Many Labour reformers favour adopting a version of voting mechanisms that are already in place in the UK. The Scottish Parliament and the London Assembly are chosen by the Additional Member System, which consists of two ballot papers. Voters elect a constituency representative using first-past-the-post. They also vote for a party, and additional members are then allocated from regional party lists to help ensure that each party's share of seats more closely reflects its share of the vote. This retains the constituency link while making the overall outcome more proportionate.

First-past-the-post has survived as long as it has because neither of the big parties previously found it in their interests to scrap it. For the first time, we have a Labour prime minister who thinks electoral reform makes sense for him personally and for the wider progressive cause. The battle to come will be about what precisely it should be replaced with and whether it would be proper to make a fundamental change to the rules of the game without holding a referendum. A conference pledge is not the same as a change to the law. The struggle ahead will be prolonged and it will be fierce. Buckle up.

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Esther Rantzen made it impossible to ignore our struggle for assisted dying Sarah Wootton

W e have all

heard a lot

over the past

few days about

people who

grew up with

Esther Rantzen. About families who gathered to watch That's Life!, about the young people whose lives were changed by Childline, and about the older people who found companionship through the Silver Line she created.

I want to talk about how the campaign for assisted dying grew with Esther.

Esther came to assisted dying late in an extraordinary life of social reforming, after her diagnosis with stage four lung cancer in 2023. But when she arrived, she brought everything that had defined her public life: curiosity, courage, mischief, persistence and an instinctive determination to make people listen to those whose voices were too easily ignored.

That instinct ran through everything she did. Esther succeeded in television at a time when women were routinely denied the opportunities, authority, and airtime afforded to men. She became not just a presenter, but a producer, journalist and formidable campaigner. Later, she created Childline and the Silver Line

because she saw people being failed and decided that noticing was not enough.

Those qualities were unmistakable when you met her in person. I arrived at one event with a much-laboured-over speech. Esther, on the other hand, had one word on her prompt sheet. She proceeded to tell a long, lewd joke.

The room was transfixed. Then it dissolved into fits of laughter. That was Esther: completely in command, herself, able to move people from seriousness to joy and back again without ever losing sight of why she was there and what she wanted people to feel.

When she began speaking

Esther Rantzen, who died last week aged 86, photographed in March 2022. She spoke openly about her cancer diagnosis and the possibility that she might one day want an assisted death.

Hollie Adams/AFP, Getty

publicly about assisted dying, she did something equally powerful. She gave a voice to the suffering, highlighting the hard conversations and choices of so many terminally ill people and their families.

By talking so openly about her own diagnosis, her fears and the possibility that she might one day want an assisted death, she gave permission to thousands of other families across the land to talk about their wishes, too.

Dignity in Dying had spent decades building the case for change, reflecting huge public support, bringing together terminally ill people and their families, developing the evidence on the failures of the status quo and steadily pushing assisted dying up the political agenda. Esther's intervention gave our long-running campaign an extraordinary new reach and urgency, taking a cause already supported by so many people into homes and conversations across the country.

After Esther spoke publicly about wanting the choice for herself, assisted dying moved rapidly up the national conversation. She challenged political leaders directly, supported parliamentary efforts to change the law and, even as her health deteriorated, continued to speak about what the existing

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Esther saw people being failed and decided that noticing was not enough

law meant for her and her family. Tributes this week have captured what made her such an effective campaigner. Childline's Shaun Friel remembered her as someone who "inspired people, energised people, persuaded people". Lord Dobbs recalled her as "delightful, articulate, fun – and very persistent".

That last word matters.

Esther did not see every campaign she fought for succeed immediately. She understood that social change

is rarely neat, quick or linear. What mattered was continuing to make the case, continuing to expose what was not working and continuing to insist that the people most affected were heard.

Her death comes after a painful period for those of us who campaigned alongside her on assisted dying. Westminster came closer to changing the law than at any point in modern British history, before the latest bill was narrowly defeated last month.

Esther did not live to see the change she wanted in England and Wales. But she did see assisted dying come to the British Isles: in Jersey and the Isle of Man.

Our debt to her is enormous. So, too, is our debt to her daughter Rebecca Wilcox, who campaigns alongside us with extraordinary strength.

Sarah Wootton is the chief executive of Dignity in Dying

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Delayed justice on Grenfell Tower is not a ‘milestone’

The case is finally with the CPS – too late for a mother dying without answers, argues Kimia Zabihyan

Esther spent her life refusing to accept that difficult problems should simply remain somebody else's problem. That fighting spirit will remain with us.

That 20 companies and 54 individuals in the Grenfell Tower fire investigation have been referred to the Crown Prosecution Service was hailed as a jubilatory “milestone” last week.

We will miss her wit, her warmth and her wicked sense of humour. Above all, we will remember her persistence.

For the families of the majority of the 72 people who died, it was no such thing.

The next deadline for our diaries? The CPS charging decisions, expected before the tenth anniversary of the fire in June 2027.

“It feels like yesterday,” is something I hear repeatedly. But the truth is it has been more than nine years of waiting. Toddlers have become teenagers, parents have died without seeing justice.

I have been an advocate for more than 250 of the survivors, residents and next of kin of the deceased since the week after the fire. The faces of their loved ones are familiar from the memorial poster cobbled together from social media posts. It – were separated in the gallery of faces. “Can you put them together?” she asked me. I did, matching up all the families so they were side by side. These things mean so much.

was Masoomeh Samimi who told me one day how much it upset her that her mother and her aunt – found together, their ashes mingled

Some things you can't change: another mother has died waiting for justice. Three months ago, Zohra Rabaee died, aged 82. She made sure she visited to say her goodbyes at the tower before she passed away. Night and day, she prayed for the soul of her daughter, Khadija Khalloufi, who died in the fire. Her picture on the poster is of a bright face with a beautiful smile.

Zohra's son Karim once told me: "My mother is holding on for justice. I don't know how to tell her it may not come in her lifetime. And perhaps not even mine." Delayed justice is not abstract. It is a mother dying without an answer.

From 2019 onwards, at meetings with the CPS senior prosecutors and the Metropolitan police, the families kept asking: why are there no charges yet? In 2020, we heard the answer: it was because the Grenfell

And we will carry it with us.

On 15 June 2017, the day after the fire, the then prime minister Theresa May had visited the still-smouldering tower. Later that day, she announced a full statutory public inquiry. This single decision changed the course of justice because it led to delays in the police investigation and will affect the ability of the CPS to bring charging decisions. Defendants will lawyer up and the first defence will be “my client can’t get a fair trial”. The CPS may conclude it cannot proceed with many of the charges that might have been brought.

The senior prosecutors and

The irony was that the evidence at the inquiry was gathered by the Met and given to the inquiry, but the police had to wait until the inquiry was “over” before it could present the evidence to the CPS for charging decisions. “So what was the inquiry for,” the families asked. “For learning lessons,” they were told.

Tower public inquiry had been sequenced to take priority.

'What was the inquiry for,' families asked. 'For learning lessons,' they were told

the Metropolitan police said they had never “experienced anything like” this in their “entire careers”. It was “unprecedented” that the inquiry had been ordered before the criminal process. The delays, they said, were due to “waiting” for the inquiry to be over. The police told us that they were dealing with an extraordinary situation: a public inquiry and a criminal investigation examining many of the same events at the same time with almost all the evidence coming from the police being handed over to the inquiry.

In September 2024, when the inquiry finally published its report, the families of more than half of the deceased gathered for a press conference. They were furious: an inquiry they never asked for had cost over £173m. It had delayed justice for seven years, at that point.

That autumn, we asked the now Baroness May of Maidenhead why she had made that decision, and if she had sought legal advice about its impact. She replied, citing the “unimaginable tragedy”, but failed to answer our question. We wrote back: had she spoken to the attorney general, the Met police or the CPS about the potential impact? She

replied: “I set up the inquiry so we could fully establish how and why the fire happened and to learn the lessons to ensure such a tragedy never happens again.”

In January 2026 we asked the CPS and the Met and were told: “We were not consulted. We were told.” So we approached the then prime minister Keir Starmer’s cabinet office through freedom of information requests, and for a year were given no answers about May’s process.

This is not a historical curiosity. An answer would allow the families and the public to understand how one of the most consequential decisions in the aftermath of one of the largest homicide investigations in the country with large corporate and state players – including the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, a government department and ministers of state – came about.

We are asking Andy Burnham to give the families something the system has failed to: transparency and answers. Prime minister, open up the files. Let the light in.

Now that would be a milestone.

Kimia Zabihyan is an advocate for Grenfell Next of Kin

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I did Manchesterism – in Liverpool Michael Heseltine

anchesterism was an appropriate title for Andy Burnham's speech in

M

which he called for growth in every postcode in Britain. I have made similar speeches, although they would appropriately have been labelled “Liverpoolism”. I have waited with anticipation now that, as prime minister, he is in a position to drive the devolution agenda forward.

I do not doubt his conviction. As mayor of Greater Manchester, he showed what was possible in that job, but half the country has no such devolved framework, and even in the metro areas, too much power is still concentrated in the Whitehall departments of central government.

I am all too familiar with the ability of those departments to create obstacles to any proposals that threaten their dominance.

When Margaret Thatcher gave me the go-ahead to create the Docklands Development Corporation to regenerate more than 2,400 hectares (6,000 acres) of derelict land in London's East End, they explained that it would require hybrid legislation, with all the delay that would have involved, because only one place was affected by the proposed law. I said we would take general powers to tackle urban regeneration, and asked for the second worst area. Liverpool got a development corporation too!

Faced with the responsibility to replace the poll tax with the council tax, I was told it would take the district valuer 10 years to complete the necessary valuation of every house. The private estate agents did the job without complaint in six months.

The search for a more effective relationship between the central government and the country at large has been a continuing debate since the 1940s. The Labour government created the new towns programme to cope with slum clearance, and then established the Redcliffe-Maud commission to report on the pattern of about 1,200 local authorities in England.

The recommendation that they should be swept away and replaced by approximately 60 unitary authorities was rejected by turkeys being asked to vote for Christmas in the corridors of Whitehall, and by the aldermen and councillors of England. I was the environment secretary Peter Walker's junior minister when we managed to reduce the number to about 300 in 1972, consisting of two-tier county councils, with a new tier of metropolitan councils in the big cities co-ordinating the urban

boroughs. I still carry the political scars accumulated in meetings with councillors whose world I was about to end.

It was in Liverpool in 1981, however, that my understanding of local government underwent a personal transformation. As secretary of state for the environment since 1979, I had inherited a special relationship with the city established by my Labour predecessor, Peter Shore. I felt my decision to announce the development corporation and the garden festival, the redevelopment of the Albert Dock, and to transfer the derelict land grant into city improvement confirmed this relationship.

In 1981, the NatWest bank was torched amid riots in the Toxteth part of the city. I agreed with Mrs Thatcher that I would visit the city.

What are you going to do about it, asked a journalist. I had noticed one common feature in all the many conversations I'd had. Everyone knew who to blame – and it was always someone else. There was no one in charge. I had produced a list of about 30 ideas that had struck me as potential opportunities as I walked the streets.

The General Electric Company could be asked to regenerate what became the Wavertree Technology Park on its doorstep; the housing corporation could unlock the cathedral precinct; and the Victoria and Albert wanted a new museum in the Albert Dock.

Who was going to make all this happen? I had learned that only as secretary of state did I have the power and resources necessary. There was just one answer. For the next 18 months, I spent a day every week running a taskforce drawn from the public and private sectors, making that list a reality. I believe it represents the most interventionist ministerial experience on record.

Burnham's “every postcode” demands a comprehensive national policy. He has mayors in

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I bear the scars of meetings with councillors whose world I was about to end

the metropolitan areas. He should legislate at once to convert the counties into mayoral unitaries, with the first mayors to be elected in 2027. He will have to confront the argument that counties do not always reflect economic reality. The best should not be allowed to be the enemy of the good. The project should be tackled with urgency.

The critical need to create wealth precludes the option and delay involved in creating a new class of authority. Each mayor should

be charged with producing a local economic plan and invited to bid for central funds, indicating what additional investment would be attracted if such funds were provided. This process would involve local companies, organisations, universities, quangos and citizens more widely in wealth-creation policies relevant to local strengths and the elimination of weaknesses.

There is no more money. The solution is to use existing budgeted funds more effectively. The experience of gearing is well proven. George Osborne top-sliced £2bn from the Whitehall functional budgets of about £10bn. I would suggest raising this to approximately £5bn and to distribute it to mayors offering the most attractive extra funding. Less successful mayors would learn rapidly how to improve their bids.

There is nothing new in these ideas. They have all been proved in practice. If the prime minister wants to fulfil another of his ideas and reach out across the political divide, he could invite Greg Clark to join his team and bring all his experience as a successful devolution minister.

Michael Heseltine was an MP from 1966 to 2001. He has been a cabinet minister and was deputy prime minister from 1995 to 1997.

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Keynes is my intellectual lodestar. Is a play about his life on the money? Will Hutton

James Graham's celebration of John Maynard Keynes, the great economist, brought a tear to the eye. Our resident expert separates fact from fiction

regard the economist John Maynard Keynes as offering the most original, insightful and best understanding of contemporary capitalism yet devised. He is my intellectual lodestar, whose thinking has informed all my writing. So it was with some trepidation I went to see James Graham's The Standard of Living, which depicts Keynes's life and ideas. Could the playwright with a genius for the popular get beyond Keynes's bisexuality and involvement with the Bloomsbury group? How much would he fall for the bastardised comic-cut version of Keynes offered by the economic and political right – “he was merely a tax-and-spend quasi-socialist” – but try from the liberal left to defend those propositions?

The play's foundational proposition is that Keynes believed that economics had to be the science that above all allowed people to live good lives. Is that right?

I left London's Theatre Royal Haymarket impressed. Graham gets Keynes and his paradigm-shifting importance – he stands alongside Einstein and Freud. Even if two-and-a-half hours of sometimes brilliant theatre, and a superb performance from Rory Kinnear as Keynes, inevitably leaves much unsaid. In the last few minutes I had to blink back tears. Here were unexpected allies from an unexpected quarter celebrating the majesty of Keynes's thinking – but, given his love of the arts, maybe they were the most fitting.

Emphatically, yes. Keynes believed passionately that the task of economics was to offer everyone the chance to live a good life – that money only served that end. His greatness was to break from the desiccating propositions of laissez-faire and offer the thinking and means to do just that.

He laid the foundations of the postwar national and international settlements that allowed governments to shape markets, especially financial markets, partner business as equals and create cradle-to-grave social security systems. For 30 years there was full employment and rising living standards. He delivered the promise of economics.

Yes. In his landmark The Economic Consequences of the Peace published in 1919, Keynes argued in scathing terms that the scale of the colossal reparations that the victor powers of the First World War had imposed on Germany were unpayable and could only lead to German hyperinflation, economic and political instability and ultimately a threat to the liberal world order the allies had fought to preserve. Hayek lived through the privations of hyperinflation in Vienna and admired that an English economist could so bravely condemn the Treaty of Versailles. What later divided them was Keynes's belief that free market capitalism has no embedded proclivity to find so-called "equilibrium outcomes" (ie all will be well for all) except perhaps, and unreliably, in the very long run. Thus the state has a duty to act. Instead Hayek argued the state, in the name of liberty, must never interfere in the market's attempt to find equilibrium, which it will unfailingly do despite any slump – eventually.

In the play the great free market ideologue Friedrich Hayek is portrayed as a superfan at the start and later Keynes's greatest critic. Was this really so?

Did Keynes really tell the parable about when an innkeeper accepts a £1 deposit for a room that is never actually rented but triggers a chain reaction of spending in the village that lifts business and morale?

Keynes used vivid examples to explain his thinking to the wider public, and it's often said he used this “parable of the pound” to explain the “multiplier” effect – that spending has a ripple, stimulating effect – a core component of his thought. As far as I know there is no hard evidence that Keynes used this example – on the other hand, Graham’s research is pretty good!

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Did he really score higher in psychology than economics?

He took the civil service exams before the First World War, and his poor marks in economics compared to his high marks in everything else, including psychology, stopped him from coming first. His examiners, he joked, must have known less about economics than him.

Graham portrays him as a gay man who solicited sailors in public loos and had affairs with the writer Lytton Strachey and the artist Duncan Grant. Is this so?

Keynes had many relationships with men during his undergraduate days in Cambridge and during and after the First World War, including with Strachey and Grant, both members of the Bloomsbury set. He kept a log of who he slept with and noted their sexual performance. And yes, he cruised in parks and public loos. If the great Greek philosophers could pay homage to male beauty, why not scions of Cambridge colleges?

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Did he really fall in love and marry a dancer with the Ballets Russes?

He fell head over heels in love with Lydia Lopokova. He loved

John Maynard Keynes, inset, in 1929. Below: The ballerina Lydia Lopokova, later Lady Keynes, pictured in 1931.

Rory Kinnear as Keynes with Natalia Osipova and Luke Cinque White in The Standard of Living.

Manuel Harlon

the energy of her high-octane dancing. Homosexuality was illegal at the time; the risk could make encounters with men transactional. With a woman, this was not an issue. After marrying, his log of sexual conquests ceased. Lopokova's love and care carried him through the next 20 years, including the period of his best work. Their big regret was not having children.

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Did he set up the Arts Council?

Yes. He believed great art enriches everyone's life – it was part of his moral universe that art should not be the preserve of the wealthy. The Arts Council was to try to bring that experience to every British citizen, and he was drafting its statutes even in the days leading up to his death.

In the play, Hayek is seen to be adopted by Margaret Thatcher, his book placed in a symbolic handbag. Did this happen?

Few economists rate Hayek professionally, but The Road to Serfdom is regarded as one of the great rightwing ideological rallying books of the 20th century. Markets equal freedom; the state equals coercion. Thatcher insisted that every member of her cabinet read it to underscore their commitment to ending the Keynesian-inspired postwar settlement. Tories sympathetic to Keynes were dismissed as “wets”. Despite the manifest failings of “Thatcherism”, Keynes has largely been in cold storage even since.

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At the end of the play, Graham seems to be saying that there is an inevitability that we will return to a Keynesian model. Is that true now in Burnham's government?

I hope so. Whether it is the “privatisation of capitalism” and the power of the bond markets, the unfolding of the “fourth” industrial revolution and the need to create a new “innovation economy”, the challenges of climate change or alleviating gross inequalities, we need the spirit of Keynes.

Capitalism will not find its own way to the best outcomes in the decades ahead. It will need, as the play argues, public action rather than inertia.

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Sunbeds cause cancer. It's time for social media to stop pushing the glow

Medical experts have become increasingly alarmed by the promotion of sunbed use via platforms such as Instagram and TikTok, overlooking the fact that sunbeds are a significant risk factor for developing skin cancers (“How social media helped make sunbeds dangerous again”, News, last week).

Melanoma is the deadliest form of skin cancer, and rates are rising in the UK. It is the fifth most common cancer in the country (and now the fourth most common for men), with more than 20,000 new cases every year. It causes about 2,600 deaths a year in the UK, or more than seven deaths a day, but nearly nine out of 10 cases are preventable by avoiding UV radiation, which comes from the sun or from sunbeds.

The International Agency for Research on Cancer has placed sunbeds alongside tobacco and asbestos in the highest category of carcinogen. Young skin is particularly vulnerable to the risks; research has shown that a single sunbed use prior to age 35 increases the risk of melanoma by $59\%$ . This is why commercial sunbed use has been banned in countries such as Australia and Brazil, and Ireland's Institute of Public Health has recommended a ban.

Despite this, the sunbed industry and influencers continue to promote their use as a beauty trend, downplaying or ignoring the significant risk of cancer. Online aggressive marketing of sunbeds, often veiled as wellness or beauty advice, is deeply unethical. The disconnect between the messaging and the scientific evidence about UV dangers causes unnecessary risk, contributing to preventable cancer cases.

Another concern is the rising use of tanning peptides, known as Melanotan II, MT-2 or the “Barbie drug”, in nasal sprays and injections, which are commonly promoted and purchased alongside sunbed use. These products are unregulated and have not been tested for safety or quality. They carry significant health risks that remain largely unknown to users. Melanotan II is touted as a quick way to achieve a tan, but it can cause dangerous side effects and there are emerging concerns about its potential links to melanoma.

We strongly urge social media platforms to take greater responsibility in regulating content that promotes unsafe practices like sunbed use. Regulators must also take stronger action against misleading sunbed advertising and social media content promoting harmful behaviours. We await the outcome of the Department of Health & Social Care consultation on under-18s sunbed use this autumn and we welcome a further wider consultation.

Sunbeds have always been dangerous, but the spread of misinformation fueling their use, particularly via social media, is now a serious public health concern that requires urgent attention and action. Susanna Daniels

CEO Melanoma Focus

CEO, Melanoma Focus

Cambridge

health, care, education and the police. The job-rich infrastructure work that could occur in every constituency would range from tackling cracked pavements and potholes to providing cheap heating and cooling in public buildings.

The answer to this, which could also be the hope-inducing big idea that could unite progressive parties in the run-up to the next election, is a “social and green new deal”. This would entail making clear that “good growth in every postcode” means an increase in labour-intensive economic activity aimed at improving the caring sectors in every community, alongside the social and green infrastructure that communities need.

Most ambitiously, and most crucially for tackling climate change and high fossil-fuel energy bills, would be the electrification and improved energy efficiency of all buildings. These programmes would create a huge number of private-sector job and investment opportunities.

This must begin to happen at some scale in the next two years, spread strategically across as many postcodes as possible, so that by the election Labour has a chance of demonstrating what place-based improvements can achieve and of turning hope into tangible results. Colin Hines UK Green New Deal Group Twickenham Middlesex

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Letters

AI has been entering into our lives for the past 30 years, and is the chosen misnomer for codified human intelligence (CHI): the encoding of human knowledge, rules and decision-making into software. This is not the conventional definition of AI, but it provides a useful way of understanding the continuity between earlier software and today's more sophisticated AI systems.

What has changed is the scale. The application of CHI on a global scale is new territory, and it cannot remain almost exclusively in the hands of a small number of big corporations in the US, China or elsewhere.

Regulation of AI across the internet is just not possible. Despots and dictators are already using AI-enabled systems for surveillance, with serious implications for freedom of expression. The challenge is not whether AI can be regulated, but how effective regulation can be made across borders and applied to governments and corporations alike. Fergus Sweeney

Your pro-AI editorial (“The future of labour”, last week), with its trilling over UK tech “unicorns” and its demands that Andy Burnham not miss out on these “epoch-making opportunities”, fell short of answering the question in your title: what will be the future of labour? Something that worries so many people, particularly the young.

Nkechi Simms's powerful account of accessing her care records (“Careless”, Investigation, News. 20 September) shines a light on an important issue that affects thousands of people. Care records represent so much more than personal data, and trying to make sense of your own childhood should never become such a battle.

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A duty of care

Banbridge, County Down

We are pleased Nkechi was inspired by our Better Records Together campaign to pursue access to her records, but we are frustrated and disheartened that doing so led to such a traumatic experience. Sadly, it reflects what we've heard from hundreds of people. Most faced long delays, poor communication and, ultimately, unanswered questions.

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Implications of AI

This is a systemic problem, and organisations must do better. Providing people with their care records is the law. Records should never arrive late, without warning, or without appropriate support to help navigate difficult details. As the data protection regulator, we've produced new standards to help organisations get this right.

This would require adequate staffing levels in sectors such as

We are calling on every UK local authority and Health and Social Care Northern Ireland to commit to improving care records access, resourcing teams appropriately and implementing our standards so requests are met with care.

Regrettably, Nkechi's story is not an isolated failure. It should be a wake-up call to every organisation holding a child's care records today. By putting that child first now, we can spare years of pain in the future. Paul Arnold CEO, The Information Commission's Office Manchester

Humanitas, challenging “the cult of AI”. The truly shocking question she was asked at a Microsoft panel, “Is there anything unique or special about human beings?”, reflects the appalling state we have reached in our thinking about who we are.

Manchester City were beautiful to watch on the pitch, but they have been caught cheating (“Without

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Away days for City fans?

Does the fact that we have such dreadful world leaders (Trump, Putin, etc); predators like Elon Musk controlling so much social media; and evidence of the damage we are wreaking on the planet, contribute to such a nihilistic assessment?

integrity, without honesty, it's not a sport at all", Sport, last week). Demotion to the League Two for next season, together with a large points deduction for the remainder of this season (plus a huge fine), would be my suggested penalty.

How necessary, then, that a voice like the Pope's should be heard, calling on the imaginative capacity that we have within us to recognise the beauty of humanity and to act upon it. Can we hope that our new prime minister, with a degree in English literature, will call upon that faculty of imagination to find more truthful answers to our problems? Joe Unsworth

Newcastle upon Tyne

On the upside, avid away supporters would have the joy of travelling to every ground in the English Football League as the club worked its way back to the top.

Matthew Hooberman

Bruton, Somerset

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Ham tomorrow

Hanif Kureishi recalls a meal in Sicily made with “Tesco’s Finest clotted cream, which Isabella [his wife] had, absurdly, carried from London in her hand luggage” (“Sicily, or how I learned to stop worrying and enjoy lunch”, New Review, last week). It doesn’t strike me as absurd: my wife and I once packed some Waitrose Parma ham for a train journey from London to Italy – and ate it while travelling through Parma.

Maurice Waite

Appleton, Oxfordshire

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Imaginative solution

FIVE GO TO RAF FAIRFORD

What a timely review (“The Pope vs the cult of AI”, New Review, 20 September) by Naomi Alderman of Pope Leo’s encyclical, Magnifica

SAF

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For the record

\- In our O, really? quiz last week (Magazine, page 46) question three asked readers: “which 3D shape has only one surface?” One correct answer is “a solid sphere”, but there are infinitely more possible 3D shapes with only one surface, and thus a variety of different answers.

  • In a leader (“Take more care”, 20 September, page 3) we said that research into the life prospects of care-experienced people had been carried out by the Nuffield Trust. The findings were in fact the work of the Nuffield Foundation, a separate organisation.
  • We welcome feedback from readers.

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Observers needed

Write to us

Letters, which may be edited, should include a full name, telephone number and postal address.

Send to:

Email letters@observer.co.uk (please insert Letters to the Editor in the subject field). Or write to us: Letters to the Editor

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To be received by noon on Thursday.

● To request a correction or make a complaint please write to readers@observer.co.uk

Obituary

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Peter Prince

Writer who ‘turned convention upside down’ and pre-empted Christopher Nolan with BBC Oppenheimer drama

D

Peter Prince wrote the screenplay for The Hit (1984), which Quentin Tarantino says is one of his favourite films. Caroline Forbes uring the final

televised debate

of the 1980 US

presidential

election, Jimmy

Carter was felt to

have committed a gaffe when he said he had asked his 13-year-old daughter's opinion of the most important issue at stake and she replied "control of nuclear arms". With the Cold War heating up, Americans preferred the more hawkish Ronald Reagan.

The next evening, the BBC began a seven-part drama, made with WGBH, a public radio station in Boston, that looked at the dawn of the nuclear age. Forty-three years before Christopher Nolan's film of the same name, Oppenheimer was a highly regarded biography of the father of the atomic bomb. Michael Billington described it in the New York Times as “the ultimate account of the scientist dealing with matters of private conscience and public morality”.

It was produced by Peter Goodchild, who worked for the BBC's science unit and had been editor of Horizon, and given its dramatic edge in a dialogue-heavy script by Peter Prince, who had been a prize-winning novelist at the first attempt before turning his talent to television plays, several of them directed by a young Stephen Frears.

Prince and Goodchild spent weeks in America researching the scientist, speaking to his academic peers, including Edward Teller, who would be played by David Suchet and who gave a passionate defence of the need for nuclear weapons. They also interviewed members of Oppenheimer's family to get an accurate picture of a complicated man.

The portrayal was not always flattering but it was felt to be balanced on both the man and the subject, presenting the arguments as they were made at the time rather than playing to a modern audience's views. Prince told Variety in 2023 that the actor Sam Waterston had captured J Robert Oppenheimer's complexity. "He was charming, conflicted and driven," he said. The series won three Baftas and Prince was nominated for an Emmy.

Peter Alan Prince was born in Bromley, Kent, in 1942, the son of a war correspondent for the Times who didn't see his son – “the little chap" as John Prince noted in his diary – until he was 18 months old, and was soon off again to cover D-day.

After Dulwich College in south London, Prince intended to study at the London School of Economics until his mother saw an advertisement for a scholarship that offered places at the University of Pennsylvania. He majored in history there, developing a love of American football and civil war battlefields, then took an MA at Columbia University before returning to Britain with an American wife, Beth.

In 1966 he went to Cambridge to write a PhD on the history of Sunday newspapers, particularly The Observer, but left without finishing it. He then worked

as a supervisor at an adventure playground in south London, which inspired him to write his first novel, Play Things, a comedy about the battles between an idealistic playleader and the criminal activities of the children in his care. Prince later admitted it was “a betrayal of the truth” but it received glowing reviews from the likes of Nina Bawden and JG Farrell.

It was while visiting his in-laws in New York in 1973 that Prince learned he had won the Somerset Maugham award for young novelists (Martin Amis and

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His final novel was praised for its flamboyant use of filthy 18th-century slang

Ian McEwan were the next two recipients) and Beth was pregnant. Their daughter Rosa is a political journalist. Beth and he divorced in 1981 and he married Linda Romano, a television producer, in 1987.

The book's success encouraged him into screenwriting. He adapted Play Things for the BBC, which was directed by Frears and starred Jonathan Pryce and Nigel Hawthorne. He also worked with Frears on the TV plays Early Struggles and Last Summer, a drama about car thieves with Richard Beckinsale that one reviewer called “a miniature classic”. In 1975, he wrote The Floater, a courtroom comedy for the BBC’s Play for Today series that was favourably compared to John Mortimer’s Rumpole tales.

While he continued to write novels, his heart may have been with the screen. Susan Hill, reviewing the novel Agents of a Foreign Power (1977), called him “an original who writes as sharply as always” but said he was much better with pictures. John Sutherland, on Prince’s 1990 book, Death of a Soap Queen, said its “sharp turns” and subject matter would have made it ideal for television. Prince adapted his 1983 novel, The Good Father, as a film directed by Mike Newell, featuring Anthony Hopkins and Harriet Walter. His final novel, Adam Runaway (2005), was praised for its flamboyant use of filthy 18th-century slang.

In 1980, he worked again with Frears on a stage play for the RSC called Television Times. Four years later, they collaborated on a feature film, The Hit, about a botched contract killing, starring Terence Stamp and Tim Roth. Quentin Tarantino has called it one of his favourites, while Wes Anderson said it was the fifth best British film ever made, after ones by Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger, David Lean, Alfred Hitchcock and Carol Reed.

Frears praised his originality. "He was a clever, thoughtful man who liked to turn convention upside down," he said. "He was also very funny and wrote good jokes. Some of those television plays we did together got a large audience and deserve to be repeated." Patrick Kidd

Peter Prince, novelist and screenwriter, was born on 10 May 1942, and died on 22 September 2026, aged 84

My week

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Bateleur eagle

There's only one form of true flight and I am its only true mistress. True flight is not about sordid flapping or,

worse, humans' deafening engines. True flight is the perfect glide: when I travel for 300 miles in a day seldom more than 30 metres (100 feet) above the ground while expending as much energy as a human does lying on a sofa.

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Monday

I am the glide: the glide is me. My wings are almost three times as wide as my body is long. And look: no tail. Or rather not one that you'd notice; my bright red feet stick out beyond it. This tailless configuration cuts down on drag to a massive extent, and that's what makes possible the extreme gliding life. All it takes to

live it is immense skill acquired over many hard years.

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Tuesday

Look at the young ones, my son, say, or my younger daughter. They look nothing like me. For a start they have tails – can't live without them, not yet. They're like young humans with stabilisers on their bikes: they need to acquire the basic skills and, crucially, their confidence in them before they fly like grownups. We take up to eight years to reach maturity, longer than most birds of prey. We have more to learn.

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Wednesday

How do we steer without a tail? By banking, like a human on a bicycle. How do we maintain balance and control? Skill, experience and the

dihedral: the w we hold our wings in a shallow V. That

conformation is optimal for stability – excuse the technical language, but technique is my obsession, for without it I die. Should I wobble in unstable air, the dihedral makes for a swift return to straight, level flight.

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Thursday

Vultures can out-soar us, circling in thermals to gain height until they're out of sight. Our edge comes from the perfect glide at low level

How do we maintain balance and control? Skill, experience and the dihedral – and low level means we're always first. Today it was a dying hippo and, as always, I had it to myself... at least for a while. I can't rip a hippo

open like a hyena does, but the eyes were mine. As usual.

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Friday

Not that I restrict myself to dead stuff: I catch mammals as big as duiker antelopes, birds as big as a guinea fowl and, today, a hefty little monitor lizard. Eat and back to the sky: nine hours on the wing, and scarcely a flap all day.

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Saturday

Bateleur is French for street performer. We got the name for our tumbling, courtship displays:

somersaulting, barrel-rolling, always a great moment. On other days we look more like tightrope walkers as we stroll across the skies, wings extended, tips flipped up and the occasional instantly corrected wobble. The first part of our scientific name is Terathopius: “marvellous face” in Greek. In all modesty, I have to accept they got that one right. Marvels, we are. The air is my sofa.

Lifespan Maybe 25 years

Eating habits Those who live and die beneath us

Hobbies Aerodynamics

Sexual preferences Other tumblers of the airways

As told to Simon Barnes

Profile

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Claudia Winkleman

The Traitors host says she's ‘too thick’ to be a contestant. Friends beg to differ, writes Lily Isaacs

The 'Claudia Winkleiman' returned to screens across the country for the new season of The Celebrity Traitors, she claimed she'd never be able to participate in the show herself. "I'm too thick... I'm just being honest," she said. "I would just be too awful at it."

According to those who know her, this humility is typical of the woman with TV's most famous fringe.

“Claudia’s very bright,” said her good friend Kirsty Young, the former host of Desert Island Discs. “She never really wants to talk about the work; she wants it to be effortless. But it takes effort and ambition to do what she does. It is a beautiful illusion that she just walks on there and does that... she’s a grafter and she puts her mind to it.”

Winkleman has been on and off television since her early 20s when she was as a pundit on daytime television, giving dating advice and making even serious hosts dissolve into fits of laughter. She had her big break in 2014, when she began co-hosting Strictly Come Dancing with Tess Daly. They were prime-time's first female presenting duo.

"It might not be brain surgery," Young said, "but there's not that many people who can do what Claudia does... Those are rare talents, people who can be the beating heart of those big shows."

Winkleman was born in 1972 to the journalist Eve Pollard and Barry Winkleman, a writer and literary publisher. She grew up in Hampstead, London.

Pollard learned she was pregnant with Winkleman when she was woman's editor of The Observer magazine. In those days the paper didn't offer maternity leave, so she moved to the Sunday Mirror, where they'd never heard of a

woman editor with a baby. "We thought it might be interesting," she remembered the paper's boss saying.

Pollard and Winkleman divorced when Claudia was three, leaving her an only child, though she acquired a half-sister when Winkleman remarried and a half-brother when Pollard married newspaper editor Nicholas Lloyd. She has called her mother and father “incredible, loving, wonderful parents who never wanted me to be anything other than who I am”.

She lived mostly with Pollard, the daughter of Holocaust survivors who always kept a suitcase in the hall in case they needed to make a quick escape.

Winkleman said her mother was a “brilliant feminist”. From her, she learned grit and stamina. She recalls a memorable rebuttal when she asked for a Barbie doll: “Don’t be ridiculous. That’s not what you’re supposed to look like.”

Winkleman's father, Barry, instilled in her a lifelong love of art. Every weekend he took her to the National Gallery, where he made a rule that they could only look at one painting. "It made me thirsty and hungry for art," she said.

She took art history at A-level, thinking it would be a good way to “wear fishnets, smoke fags and hang out with boys”, but fell in love with the subject, which she went on to study at Cambridge, where she also grew to love fashion and began to shape her signature bronzed and kohl-eyed look.

She was so dedicated to tanning, she said, that she filled her bedroom with a rented

Claudia

Winkleman

Born 1972

Alma mater

Cambridge

Work 30 years

of TV presenting

Family Married

to Kris Thykier,

three children

sunbed, and slept on the floor. Winkleman has since traded sunbeds for fake tan. Young said that in 20 years, she'd "rarely seen" her friend's natural skin colour. "She's mad for the tan." Winkleman is just as dedicated to art, though she keeps that more under wraps. Insiders at the British Museum, where Winkleman is now a trustee, said they were surprised by how involved the TV host wanted to be. The director, Nicholas Cullinan, said Winkleman had "a real passion for celebrating the work

---

---

'Those are rare talents, people who can be the beating heart of a big show'

of the museum staff. She helped launch our annual staff awards and has been closely involved."

Asked if she'd like to host an art show, Winkleman worried she would annoy viewers who know her as “the orange girl on Strictly”. “I’m not good enough. I wanted to, but I don’t want to give too many versions of me.”

Many versions of her have flourished. When then BBC One controller Danny Cohen gave Winkleman the Strictly gig, he told her: "Your fringe is too long. We all wanted to be a goth, right? But we grew out of it." Winkleman did the first show with a side

parting and a pink dress. "The worst of it was that the makeup was all natural. Awful," she said.

Her stylist, Sinead McKeefry, said that when she started working with Winkleman, she was wearing wrap dresses because “that’s how female presenters were meant to look”.

But viewers didn't need a toned-down Winkleman in order to love

Illustration by Andy Bunday

her. Her evolution in style has mirrored her confidence in herself – cementing her punky outfits, dark eyeliner and signature fringe in television history.

“Claudia is a stunning example of how to live your best life,” McKeefry said. “She doesn’t take herself too seriously. She’s taught me not to be too precious.” She has learned from Winkleman too that you can be serious about your job, but have fun while doing it.

W

inkleman quit

Strictly, with Daly, in 2025, saying: "It's best to leave a party before you're fully ready." The Traitors had come calling in 2022, quickly becoming the BBC's most successful TV show, with last year's celebrity final attracting 13 million viewers. Her brief interlude hosting The Claudia Winkleman Show merely affirmed her humanity. The show received less than effusive reviews and was cancelled after seven episodes. Winkleman said she had been "too nervous to enjoy it".

Young says people don't realise how funny Winkleman is. "She has the timing and the instinct of any properly funny person. She gets to the line quickly and she's not afraid to say it if she thinks it will get a laugh. However outrageous."

Young said she often told Winkleman: "You stand next to these men and you're laughing and applauding their lines but you're funnier than any of them, and it really pisses me off."

She's happy her friend has reached a stage where “people know she's the star”, but said Winkleman wouldn't wish for more fame. She “lives and breathes for her family”.

Winkleman married film producer Kris Thykier in 2000. "When I think of Claudia," Young said, "I think of her with her kids and her husband in her kitchen, with her dog."

She has three children with Thykier. In 2014, the Halloween costume her middle child, Matilda, was wearing caught fire at a neighbour's house. The then eight-year-old was badly burned.

"We couldn't put her out," Winkleman said at the time. "Her tights had melted into her skin."

Winkleman had kept her private life private, but she took to TV screens in a plea for laws on the flammability of children's costumes to change. Flammability testing has been obligatory since 2015.

Winkleman received an OBE in 2025, and this week's premiere of The Celebrity Traitors was the most viewed debut episode of any series on British television, ever. But Young said that even as Winkleman has the world at her feet, she keeps her dreams closer to home. "I know what she'd wish: that all her kids are healthy and happy," she said.

---

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AI's monster debt problem could cause another crash, warns Enron short seller

Jim Chanos is betting against firms he calls highly leveraged data centre landlords. But the ‘creative accounting’ of key players is an even bigger concern, he tells Barney Macintyre

The short seller who famously predicted and profited from the collapse in 2001 of the energy trader Enron has said that the increasing use of debt to build AI infrastructure could become a systemic risk to the financial system by 2028.

Jim Chanos, whose firm has placed bets against Tesla, Wirecard and the Chinese property sector, said in an interview with The Observer that he was betting against “most of the neoclouds” – smaller companies that let out AI computing capacity – because they are “valued as tech growth stocks when, in fact, they’re highly leveraged landlords”.

Many neoclouds are former bitcoin mining companies that have borrowed heavily to turn to the business of buying AI chips and land for data centres, before renting the computational power out to firms such as OpenAI. Neoclouds including CoreWeave, Nebius and TeraWulf have all become targets for short sellers betting that demand for the assets they lease will fall.

Chanos isn't the only contrarian betting against AI. Michael Burry, the investor played by Christian Bale in film The Big Short, this week said he was “moving timelines up” with his short positions against AI behemoths Nvidia and Palantir.

More august institutions are also worried about the levels of debt now supporting the data centre build-out, and cosiness between the key players. This week the Bank of England warned of the risks of a “sharp correction” owing to the “rapid increase in artificial-intelligence-related debt issuance”. The co-head of credit at the private equity giant KKR said he doesn’t “think enough people are talking about the potential volatility if AI growth slows”.

People have been calling it a bubble since 2023, but investment in the AI trade is roaring. Micron, one of the compute companies Burry is shorting, has posted results showing quarterly revenues up 379% year on year.

But the costs are staggering. The consultancy Bain & Company estimates annual spending on AI infrastructure and its upkeep could reach \$1.5tn (£1.14tn) by 2031. Assuming this outlay amounts to about a quarter of sales, the market will need to reach \$6tn annually. And if that revenue fails to materialise? The share of US households with a paid AI subscription is only 2.2%, according to PNC. To paraphrase the activist investor Bill Ackman ahead of the 2008 crash: who is holding the bag this time?

---

---

Singularity or circularity?

A web of reciprocal deals between companies at the heart of the AI trade has given rise to accusations of “circular” and “vendor” financing – when a seller lends money directly to a buyer of its products.

Anthropic exhibits a co-dependent relationship with SpaceX. It generates a chunk of revenue from coding services delivered to Cursor, an AI-powered code editor owned by Elon Musk's company, while its single largest operating cost is a \$1.25bn per month deal for access to SpaceX's Colossus 1 data centre in Tennessee.

Details from Anthropic's IPO prospectus, leaked last week, failed to ease concerns that frontier labs rely on patronage. It shows 47% of its sales to customers came through cloud partners Amazon and Google. Chip supplier Broadcom has agreed to lend Anthropic up to \$42bn to finance infrastructure spending. The filing states “potential conflicts of interest” could arise from the deal that affect the lab’s ability to access compute.

Ara Kharazian, lead economist at Ramp, said: “AI has proven its value to highly technical companies that use it heavily... The problem is 1% of firms can’t sustainably drive these growth projections. Neither OpenAI nor Anthropic have made meaningful inroads with non-tech businesses.”

At the centre of this web is Nvidia which Chanos claims has “almost a monopoly-like vice grip on this boom”. He points to data that shows Nvidia made more than \$190bn in profits in the past 12 months, while at the same time ploughing \$83bn into “the companies that are their customers”. The company released a memo rebutting accusations of circular financing.

'The problem is that 1% of firms can't sustainably drive these growth predictions'

Ara Kharazian

Nvidia's CEO

Jensen Huang,

above, at its

2025 GTC AI

conference in

California. Inset:

Jim Chanos.

Josh Edelson/AFP

via Getty Images

"If something was to happen... Meta will [make the payments], but

A recent study by economists at the Bank for International Settlements found that between 2021 and 2025, nearly a third of AI firms' investment deals (by deal value) involved a target that was also an AI company.

---

---

A shadow economy?

Chanos refers to these as “Enron-like structures”, pointing to the example of a \$28bn deal to finance the 2GW Hyperion data centre in Louisiana. Meta and private credit firm Blue Owl set up a separate company to own the centre and borrow the cash. Meta promised to pay rent and cover any shortfall.

Anthropic and OpenAI have become such a furnace for burning cash that their funders – Google, Amazon, Meta and Oracle – are posting smaller returns. And they are finding creative ways to take off that funding from their balance sheets. The Financial Times estimates in the past year big tech has erased \$300bn of AI exposure from their financial statements through “residual value guarantees”.

Circular dealing among AI giants

\*Neoclouds

systemic, but at the rate it's going, it probably will be by 2028."

they'll also take the data centre, and Blue Owl will be wiped out," said Gil Luria, head of technology research at DA Davidson. "That's the weak link."

This week Amazon launched a vehicle that would offload about \$8bn of advanced Nvidia chips to external investors to bolster its balance sheet. "One should always ask: if this is such a great business proposition, why are you trying to not show investors the numbers?" said Chanos.

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The debt

AI's hunger for capital has been transforming debt markets since at least the beginning of 2025. Hyperscalers are issuing more corporate bonds, which investors buy as a way of lending money to a company in return for interest payments. This is affecting investor demand for the bonds of smaller companies – and even countries.

"It's really quite unprecedented," said Chanos. "The only thing we found that was bigger was the Chinese real estate bubble from 2010 to 2020. But that was an entire economic model based on debt. [The risk] is not

Last week Japan's SoftBank raised more than \$11bn in debt to finance investment in OpenAI – the largest junk bond sale in history. Goldman Sachs says investors have bought nearly \$200bn worth of hyperscaler debt so far this year. Kevin Warsh, chair of the US Federal Reserve, has noted that these companies are now directly competing for capital with a \$31tn market for US Treasuries.

“Using debt to finance speculative investments is always a bad idea,” said Luria. “It’s never worked out, and it’s not going to work out this time.”

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The bag holders

None of this will matter if AI can prove its profitability. But one estimate by the economist Hanno Lustig suggests total data-centre revenue needs to grow at roughly 45% per year for seven years to keep up with expenditure. If that doesn't happen, hyperscalers may be partially insulated. "If OpenAI as a company doesn't succeed and Nvidia ends up owning those data centres, it can just provide that to another model company," explained Luria.

Yet Nvidia is clearly getting prepared for all eventualities. The company has in the past month held talks with insurance companies about products that would provide cover on loans to neoclouds. It's not a proposition that the cautious folks at Berkshire Hathaway seem likely to jump at.

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What's the difference between a printer company and a global pioneer of quantum computing?

There isn't one, according to official data, and this leaves UK policymakers trying to build an industrial strategy blind to our valuable frontier firms

UK productivity has, even with recent revisions, been pretty dire in the past two decades. But one area where productivity

is booming is the invention of political phrases to respond to it. “Reindustrialisation” joins a list including “rebalancing”, “march of the makers” and “levelling up” that are no doubt politically expedient but more questionable in substance.

We're in this position because the part of the economy that we need to nurture isn't to be found in our national statistics. This isn't because of the quality of what is produced – although that is no doubt a challenge. It's because we don't even measure it.

If the economy is going to grow at anything like the rate we need, that expansion will be delivered by companies at the cutting edge of industry. Firms working in areas such as AI, biotech and quantum computing will create the inventions and innovations that will push our economy on. These frontier firms are the most productive part of the economy. On average, each of their employees produces 60% more than those in non-frontier companies, and they outstrip every other sector in our industrial mix. Plus they have a broader impact on other parts of the economy.

Because they sell around the world, they bring money into the UK. This puts cash in the pockets of workers, who subsequently spend it on high streets. New research from The Data City, which classifies frontier companies using the language businesses use to describe themselves, suggests the multiplier effect is substantial. Areas of the UK with the most cutting-edge companies also have more jobs in cafes, bars and shops.

Government ministers have in the past claimed that jobs created in cutting-edge companies have limited relevance for the “everyday economy”. That “ordinary” workers don’t feel any gain from these firms. The data shows the opposite. The frontier leads the rest. It’s important therefore that we can measure it, understand it, and assess how it is doing. Investors know the value

Median worker output

2025 figures of these firms. Frontier companies make up about 3% of all businesses, but have accounted for 41% of all equity deals and 56% of all the money invested via these deals since the start of 2025.

Frontier companies as share of all businesses

But here's the problem: you can't see these sectors in official data because there isn't a definition for them. The UK's standard industrial classification system was designed in the 1940s for an economy of factories, farms and department stores. This means the UK's latest unicorn company – Fractile, builder of what it says is the world's fastest AI chip – sits in the same category as IT support firms. Oxford Ionics, a world-leading quantum computing business, is classified with computer printer manufacturers.

This leaves policymakers flying blind. The monetary policy committee sets interest rates without knowing how the frontier is performing; the Office for Budget Responsibility makes its growth forecasts without knowing the trajectory of these companies; and the Department for Business and Trade has itself admitted that the SIC system “does not adequately cover many of the sectors” it is trying to support.

The result is catchy words rather than clear policy prescriptions for our economic malaise. It is unclear (perhaps deliberately so) which sectors reindustrialisation actually covers, but even were it more explicit, politicians still wouldn't be able to measure them – and you cannot build an industrial strategy around sectors you cannot measure.

So we're left grappling for answers as to why wages in real terms have barely grown over the past two decades, and why people are turning to populism at the ballot box. A policy for supporting better statistics is never going to get hearts racing. But if we are to find our way out of the economic wilderness it is exactly where we need to start. It's great to read about the frontier in news stories in The Observer, but we need to see it in statistical readouts of the economy, too.

Paul Swinney is chief economist at The Data City

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Thought we had bond problems? For beleaguered France, 'le spread' is only going to get worse

ANALYSIS

Ben

Zaranko

Economics editor

You could be forgiven for not noticing, given the relentless torrent of other news, but the bond market has had another bumpy week.

Long-term borrowing costs for the UK government hit 6% last Thursday

– a threshold last breached in 1998 – before falling back. US government borrowing costs rose to their highest level since 2002. Yet it was France that found itself in the spotlight, amid mounting investor concern over political turmoil in the eurozone’s second-largest economy.

Yields on France's 10-year bonds – the return investors demand to lend to the government – rose above $4.9\%$ on Thursday, their highest since 2002. This was part of a global bond rout, triggered by a rising oil price as reports indicated that the US is sending a third aircraft carrier to the Gulf region, and unexpectedly high European inflation, but France was singled out.

The premium investors demand to buy French 10-year bonds over safer German equivalents – often termed “le spread” – reached 1.5 percentage points on Friday. That’s the widest gap since 2011, during the worst of the eurozone crisis, when a bond market spiral eventually forced an intervention from the European Central Bank.

"It is logical for markets to go

Investors also worry that whoever wins next year's presidential election in France will make matters worse

after the weakest link, and we have seen a sharp widening in French spreads," said Mohit Kumar, chief European economist at Jefferies.

French finance minister Roland Lescure made reference to rising interest rates as he presented the details of the government's budget for 2027, which includes €43bn of spending cuts and reduced tax breaks. His government aims to reduce its budget deficit to around $5\%$ of GDP in 2027, against $6.5\%$ under unchanged policy, and down from $5.4\%$ in 2026.

"To reduce the spread between France and its main European partners, it's a question of credibility, a question of confidence," Lescure said last Thursday, adding, “we are capable of doing it”. The budget proposal includes savings from sensitive areas such as pensions, healthcare, sick leave and public sector wages. The country’s fiscal watchdog described it as “optimistic”. Students and public sector employees staged protests across France last week, raising the prospect that the budget will fail to make it through parliament.

Investors also worry that things will get worse whoever wins next year's presidential election: both the far left and far right, in the form of Jean-Luc Mélenchon and Marine Le Pen, are riding high in the polls.

Looking beyond France's particular challenges, the rising cost of energy has been a key driver of

Firefighters protest in Paris last week as public sector workers strike before the budget. Thomas Samson/AFP, Getty

higher borrowing costs this year. Higher oil and gas prices add to inflationary pressure – especially in European economies that rely heavily on energy imports – and make central bank rate hikes more likely, which in turn leads to higher bond yields. In recent weeks, US threats of a diesel export ban and the possibility that Houthi strikes will disrupt shipping through the Red Sea have contributed to rising European fuel prices.

Concerns about energy prices add to, and interact with, concerns about stubbornly high government borrowing. France's level is troublesome but far from unique.

“We do not see any major economy taking steps to control deficits over the next 12 months,” said Kumar at Jefferies. “With 10 elections in Europe next year, our view is that the inflation problem will translate into a deficit problem, as most countries would be inclined to provide help for the cost of living due to higher oil and food prices.”

For Andy Burnham and the chancellor, John Healey, a key aim of this month's budget will be to navigate the pressure to provide households with “breathing space” without triggering a reaction that leaves the UK competing with France for the role of bond market problem child.

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G7 bows to US diesel demands with ‘substantial’ release in 20 days

Jeevan Vasagar

Climate editor

Leaders of the G7 countries have agreed to release 100m barrels of diesel and crude oil from strategic reserves and not to restrict exports following US pressure to bring down pump prices.

The plan will include a “substantial” release of diesel within the first 20 days – bringing some welcome relief. Consumers and businesses in the UK are paying £20m more a day for diesel than they were before the Middle East war broke out, based on the average increase over the months since the conflict began, according to figures shared exclusively with The Observer.

The cost of filling up has now risen by £20.40 per visit to the pump for car drivers and by £327.51 per visit for lorries, according to analysis by the Transport & Environment UK thinktank.

European countries came under pressure to release more diesel, with the US treasury secretary Scott Bessent calling on Europe to “accelerate delivery on existing commitments and make additional supply available”.

The head of the International Energy Agency, Fatih Birol, told reporters earlier in the week that most European nations had yet to draw down the stocks of crude and refined oil products they had committed to in a coordinated release agreed in March.

Prices were driven upwards by the threat of a US export ban in addition to war-related disruption, threatening a fuel that is essential for agriculture and road transport. An export ban by Russia, the second biggest global supplier after the US, has also restricted the availability of diesel.

Ukrainian airstrikes on Russian refineries mean that even if that ban is lifted, supplies will not come back on stream soon.

Diesel prices reached 200.01p a litre on UK forecourts this week, according to the RAC, surpassing the previous high of 199.09p reached in June 2022 in nominal terms. Adjusted for inflation, the 2022 price would be above 230p now.

The price rise has added a total of £3.4bn to UK consumer and business costs since the US and Israeli attacks on Iran in late February, according to calculations by Transport & Environment UK. The analysis does not include the latest increase.

Some sectors are harder hit than others by the diesel price rise. Farmers in Britain, for example, are shielded because they pay a lower rate of tax on agricultural “red diesel”.

The rate on red diesel, which is dyed to distinguish it from the more expensive kind, was cut to 6.48p a litre in May; other consumers pay tax at 52.95p a litre.

Diesel has climbed above £2 per litre at the pump, adding a total of £3.4bn to UK consumer and business costs.

Bus fleets in the UK are rapidly electrifying, with Coventry the first city to run an all-electric bus service and London aiming for complete electrification by 2034. But Britain lags behind European countries such as Sweden and the Netherlands in electrifying lorries.

Tim Dexter from Transport & Environment UK said: “A lot of the logistics sector is small to medium businesses that run off wafer-thin margins, 2% margins. Price rises like this have a huge implication. You have to decide whether to take losses or pass them on to the businesses that are your consumers.”

Dexter urged the government to prioritise shifting to electric cars and lorries. He said: “Doing so will insulate the country from volatile international fossil fuel markets and better protect the cost of living.”

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[0800 715 137 stannah.com | The minutes | Deals and earnings] Banks take £18bn hit over fears of new tax

The UK's four largest banks – Barclays, HSBC, Lloyds and NatWest – took a hit this week when £18bn was wiped from the value of their stocks. Speculation that John Healey will levy new taxes on the sector intensified after key lenders were summoned to the Treasury for talks, as the chancellor prepares for his first budget on 28 October. The Treasury has not revealed details of the summit, reported to be taking place on Tuesday. Trade associations and investors are divided on what higher taxes would mean for the UK's financial sector. The Trades Union Congress argues a levy on British bank profits could redirect cash to cost-of-living support, while finance chiefs warn a tax raid would threaten Britain's position as a global banking hub and undermine institutions' ability to lend to growing companies.

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The Observer business matrix

year on record for violent crypto attacks, with a higher rate of home invasions, kidnappings and hostage situations. Recovering crypto assets once they have been transferred is extremely difficult. Crimestoppers is offering a £10,000 reward for new information on the Solihull attack.

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Panicked investors find haven in Germany

Investors flocked to Germany and Switzerland this week in pursuit of a safe haven from market turmoil. As French government borrowing costs jumped to multi-decade highs (see page 41), German borrowing costs fell. Germany has historically kept a tighter lid on its borrowing, in part due to its constitutional “debt brake”, and is seen as a safer bet than its neighbour. Swiss borrowing costs also fell, and the value of the Swiss franc rose, fuelled by similar dynamics. “When debt risk in the Eurozone spikes up, the franc is always the preferred haven,” said Francesco Pesole, a currency strategist at ING.

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Sales boost for Greggs but job cuts loom

Greggs reported a 7.7% increase in total sales during the third quarter of 2026, and a 3.4% increase in like-for-like sales. The firm credited better weather with supporting trading conditions in August and September, and said that iced drinks – including new matcha and cherry lemonade flavours – had proved a hit with customers. The news for Greggs workers is less positive: the chain has announced plans to restructure its manufacturing operation, which is expected to lead to 740 job losses and the closure of several sites. Roisin Currie, chief executive of the bakery, warned that market conditions were “challenging” and that higher oil prices would feed through to distribution costs.

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[Hot commodity] UK soaks up savings with plug-in solar

British households are snapping up plug-in solar panels in pursuit of savings on their bills, as gas and electricity prices continue to rise. The government legalised plug-in solar panels at the end of August. The kits, which do not require professional installation, can each produce up to 800W of power, or as much as 20% of an average home's electricity use. Unused electricity can be sent back to the grid. The average customer can save as much as £150 per year, according to Octopus Energy, which reported that demand for plug-in solar has been so strong in the past month that it has had to restock twice.

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New car market keeps its foot on the gas

The UK's new-car market continues to perform strongly, posting its 10th consecutive month of growth in September, according to provisional data from the Society of Motor Manufacturers and Traders. New car registrations for the month were $12\%$ higher than a year earlier. Robert Wood and Elliot Jordan-Doak, economists at Pantheon Macroeconomics, wrote that "another strong gain in private car registrations shows that consumers remain sufficiently confident to continue spending through the energy price shock". Battery electric vehicles hit a market share of $28.3\%$ – a strong performance, but still below the legislated target of $33\%$ under the government's zero-emissions vehicle mandate. The Jaecoo 7, nicknamed the "Temu Range Rover", was again the most popular new car in September, highlighting the UK's enthusiasm for competitively priced Chinese models.

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[Risk radar] Rise in violent crypto attacks on investors

Violent thefts known as “wrench attacks” that target cryptocurrency investors are on the rise. As the

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The coming week...

Companies

Monday: Meta, X, TikTok challenge Ofcom in high court. Tuesday: FCA annual public meeting. Thursday: Tesco results, PepsiCo results.

● Economic data/reports

Monday: New car registration monthly data.

Wednesday: IMF managing director Kristalina Georgieva speech in Thailand. Thursday: speeches from Bank of England governor Andrew Bailey, chief economist Huw Pill, deputy governor for monetary policy Clare Lombardelli and committee member Megan Greene.

value of crypto coins increases, reports of robberies to seize digital assets by force have spread across the US, UK and France, where there have been the largest number of attacks so far. A recent BBC report detailed a brutal break-in and attack of a businessman in the West Midlands town of Solihull. Thieves threatened to kill his unborn child unless he surrendered his digital wallet. Research group Chainalysis found that \$30m (£23m) was stolen in the year to June. It estimates that 2026 is likely to become the worst

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[Movers and shakers] Raise interest rates, says Bank economist

Catherine Mann, below, the American economist and Bank of England rate setter, said last week that the central bank needs to raise interest rates to maintain credibility with markets. At the last two meetings of the Bank's monetary policy committee, she

has dissented from the majority decision to hold rates constant, voting for a 0.25% increase in each case. Mann, viewed as something of an inflation “hawk”, argued that financial conditions are too loose to contain the inflationary pressure injected by higher energy prices, and that policymakers cannot rely on financial markets to do their job for them. A rise in oil and gas prices could push other decision-makers towards Mann’s position the next time the committee meets on 5 November.

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Vital statistics

8.9m

Viewers for the opening episode of series 2 of The Celebrity Traitors, breaking previous Traitors viewing records. The audience will grow further once on-demand viewers are counted.

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£22m

Boost to Scotland's economy from filming of the Traitors franchise. The show's UK, US and celebrity seasons bolstered the local economy, providing a surge of production jobs. The fourth series of The Traitors UK, which concluded in late January this year, also included a retail push, with branded products generating revenues of £2m.

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£2.5bn

Amount paid out in tax relief to creative industries in 2024-25, according to the latest government data. Of that, £702m related to film and £936m to high-end TV. The relief allows qualifying companies to reduce their tax bill. Film and TV production companies are internationally footloose, and the relief aims to attract them to Britain.

23k

Growth in the number of people working in film, TV, radio and music between 2024 and 2025, according to newly released government estimates. This equates to an 11.1% increase, compared with 1.1% for the economy as a whole.

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£4bn

Total independent TV sector revenues in the UK reached £3.8bn in 2025, up 4% from the previous year. The annual census of the sector by Pact, a trade body, shows that international TV revenue grew by 16% to £1.6bn, offsetting a slight drop in domestic earnings.

drop in domestic takings.

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New niche for second wave of back-to-the-future foods

The impeccably groomed Mayfair headquarters of the Royal Kennel Club may not be the obvious place to host a bunch of so-called “fat cats”. But on Tuesday it was where Accenture, Lloyds Bank and Jim Mellon’s New Agrarian investment fund held a morning meeting on “institutional investors and a better food system”.

The message was clear. A second wave of alternative food investing is putting behind it the disappointment of the first, which peaked in 2021 and crashed a couple of years later after briefly putting lab-grown meat and plant-based alternatives such as the Impossible Burger on mainstream menus.

The new wave of startups, of which Britain has a good number, is focused on more niche areas of the food system. The bull case for it ranges from increasing the security of food supply to reducing cruel intensive farming.

One hot topic was regulation. Successive British governments have tried to create a regulatory environment in which the innovative food sector can thrive. In 2024, Meatly won approval to put its lab-grown chicken in pet food. Labour has created a regulatory “sandbox”, running until 2027, to help speed approval of food innovations for human consumption. The fear is that, as Britain re-engages with the EU, this approach will clash with the continent’s more heavy-handed, often science-sceptic regulatory philosophy.

Another worry is that, the technology having been proven, innovative food may be the latest example of British investment institutions failing to throw their financial weight behind promising startups. The institutional investors in the room made all the right noises. If they don't follow through with serious money, they should be sent to the doghouse.

Alternative food investing peaked in 2021 and crashed a couple of years later.

Linda Kennedy/Alamy

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Nvidia chips in to tune of \$150bn

Why is the world's most valuable company putting aside \$150bn to purchase its own shares – the biggest stock buyback ever?

Share repurchases make most sense when insiders know the market is undervaluing their company. But Nvidia's share price, up by about a quarter in the past year, is hardly a bargain.

Chief executive Jensen Huang says Nvidia is doing so well it can invest unprecedented amounts in growing the business (an estimated \$130bn), while also engaging in the sort of novel financing that lets “the central bank of AI” return lots of surplus money to shareholders.

One criticism of buybacks is that executives use them to pump up their pay without performing better. Shrinking the share count boosts earnings per share (and thus bonuses). Nvidia pays staff heavily in new stock, which dilutes existing shareholders. Buybacks can offset that, keeping the share count flat. A big chunk of Nvidia's buyback may go to mask the true cost of stock-based pay, dressing it up as a reward to investors.

The loudest sceptic is investor Michael Burry, who is shorting Nvidia (see page 38). Buying back shares this richly valued, he says, is just overpaying. Others seem to agree. Share prices often soar on news of a buyback. Nvidia's barely moved.

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City's free pass on climate risk reporting weakens green efforts

In a setback for efforts to make British business greener, last Wednesday the Financial Conduct Authority withdrew its plans to mandate listed companies to report on climate-related risks in line with international standards. Instead, it is merely requiring companies that decline to report to explain why.

The regulator's reasoning was twofold. Mandating the standard, it said, risked being disproportionately costly and thus damaging to the competitiveness of UK-listed firms. Moreover, as $92\%$ of FTSE 350 companies already comply voluntarily, why force the issue?

There is also competitive pressure from abroad: the EU is watering down its climate disclosure regime, and the Trump administration has scrapped equivalent US rules. With London losing stock market listings at a worrying rate, perhaps it has little choice but to join this international race to the bottom.

This is a disappointing outcome to an international effort to build meaningful standards for disclosing climate risks. The International Sustainability Standards Board, whose disclosures UK companies can now take or leave, was created in 2021 to end decades of fragmented, voluntary climate reporting, an alphabet soup of competing frameworks that left investors unable to compare companies on a consistent basis. Now each of its three biggest potential adopters has championed the ISSB while declining to require anyone to use it.

The FCA's evidence undercuts its conclusion. It offers 92% voluntary compliance as proof that mandating disclosure is unnecessary. Yet, given they are mostly doing it anyway, mandating it at least for big firms would cost almost nothing, while the burden on smaller firms could be limited by giving only them the discretion to comply. The standards have not been abandoned; when the pendulum swings back towards corporate responsibility, they may then be made mandatory.

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Boots, Monzo and the RAC snub London stock market

Barney Macintyre

Business editor

Are UK public companies facing an extinction event?

It sounds dramatic, but a string of trade sales, buyout rumours and suspended public offerings over the past week have forced the question, yet again.

Monzo, a fintech jewel the UK government has courted as a potential listing candidate, has instead opened up talks with multiple private equity firms after a deal to sell to Brazil's NuBank for £10bn fell through.

Boots, a British retail staple that many speculated would be popular with retail investors on the public market, is nearing a \$9bn private sale to Canada's Weston family, which controls ABF and Primark.

The RAC has shelved plans for a London stock market listing. Its owners opted to sell their stakes into a “continuation vehicle” – an increasingly popular way for private equity investors to keep hold of assets, rolling them into a new fund because they didn’t get the price they wanted.

Twenty years ago, Britain boasted 1,700 publicly quoted companies. Now there are 909 and the trend is downwards – something my colleague Will Hutton has repeatedly highlighted. Now it falls to a Labour government to make the case for a revived stock market.

Boots is nearing a \$9bn private sale to Canada's Weston family. Mike Kemp/In Pictures/Getty Images

“You’re not going to get growth without a good domestic stock market, and you can’t really have a good domestic stock market without domestic capital,” said Steven Fine, chief executive of the investment bank Peel Hunt.

For founders or companies seeking liquidity, the valuation offered by an

IPO in the UK can seem lacklustre. But it's a chicken-and-egg problem, rooted in a lack of “home bias” from British investors who've been incentivised to stick their savings in a US tracker fund or cryptocurrency.

Confoundingly, for UK companies that do make the jump, raising capital on public markets is straightforward.

Fine cites the example of Softcat, a UK technology company with a valuation 17 times earnings that recently raised more than £350m from long-term supportive shareholders to acquire a US technology company.

There are signs that Britain's IPO drought could soon end. The \$7bn flotation of Africa-focused Airtel Money, London's largest offering in years, could add momentum to the trend of emerging market companies coming to the UK. London-based Zilch, another promising fintech company, is eyeing the capital for a float in 2027. Waterstones is considering it too.

The hardest challenge, perhaps, is landing the message of why public markets matter. “If you want to hold companies to account, if you want disclosures, if you want a thriving retail investment culture, then maybe you do [need a public market],” says Fine. “Equity is permanent. Debt has to be refinanced or repaid.”

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Unions prepare to march into the private sector as a whole new white-collar world opens up

Mike Clancy of Prospect addresses union members during a two-day strike at the V&A in south London last month.

Ron Fassbender/Alamy

Firms such as Meta

are striking deals on

workplace relations

ahead of a law change

that will allow trade

unions to request access

to certain businesses

Stephen Armstrong

From 30 October new pro-trade union laws are set to change the face of industrial relations in the UK, potentially increasing the presence of trade unions in the private sector. Most significantly, under the rules introduced as part of the Employment Rights Act, unions will have the right to request physical and digital access to workplaces with 21 or more employees.

Some companies are striking deals ahead of this deadline. Last week, Meta signed an out-of-character agreement with Prospect, allowing the white-collar union access to speak to the roughly 5,000 employees across its London sites about union membership. “Meta’s industrial relations team already works with employee representative groups in multiple markets, and we are approaching this in the same way,” the company said in a statement.

Others are wary. “There’s a real concern that these changes will add unnecessary complexity and disruption for firms already facing significant cost pressures,” said Patrick Milnes, head of people and work policy at the British Chambers of Commerce. “These changes are landing alongside a wider package of employment law reforms putting real strain on businesses, particularly SMEs."

The changes include rights and protections for trade union representatives and for employees taking industrial action. From 1 January, employers will be required to provide workers with a standardised statement informing them of their right to join a trade union.

The pro-union mood music at this week's Labour conference was at its loudest for some time: Angela Rayner said she was “born in Stockport, raised in Unison”, and chancellor John Healey reinstated the Union Learning Fund, a £15m training scheme run by trade unions to help workers in England gain new skills in technology, including AI.

For unions such as Prospect – which is strongest in the defence, technology, energy, media and telecoms industries – training is as significant as pay. "UK companies have a very sluggish rate of adopting AI, partly because management is deploying it with no support or training, and partly because staff don't trust management to not replace them," argued Andrew Sturtevant, Prospect's assistant secretary. "You're likely to end up with higher, faster rates of adoption when it's done as part of a negotiated settlement with the union, where people are reassured about concerns and the union can ask or oversee training."

"Businesses understand the

‘We potentially have a two to three-year window to use these rights, so there is a ticking clock’ Mike Clancy, Prospect

importance of constructive workplace relations," Milnes said. "Trade unions can play a positive role where they help identify issues early, improve communication and support change. The priority must be to support positive relationships at work, without making it harder for businesses to hire, invest and grow."

Higher trade union membership in the UK accompanied higher productivity from the Second World War to 1973, when about half of UK workers were union members and productivity growth hit a record 7.2%. But the oil shock of that year inverted the relationship. Since the 2000s, both have been on the floor.

Among younger white-collar workers, union membership differs from the old model, often based on workplace policies. Prospect's growth in membership at Meta began in the pandemic and as workers were told to return to the office, then boomed with the Trump administration's edict banning DEI (diversity, equity and inclusion) policies. US and UK management toed the line, removing policies on hate speech and sexuality.

Google DeepMind workers voted overwhelmingly for representation by the Communication Workers Union in May, after Google's deals allowing the US Department of Defense and the Israeli military to use its technology. In June, British employees at Wikipedia formally requested representation via the Communication Workers Union and the case is in arbitration.

General UK union membership is at 22% and private sector membership is just 12%, although about a fifth of workplaces have collective bargaining agreements or recognise unions, including most supermarkets, banks, defence companies and technology firms. Research last year from the Chartered Institute of Personnel and Development found employers with union representatives are generally positive about the relationship, while those without unions are negative.

The looming deadline will likely push unions to move swiftly. “We’re very aware in the movement that both Reform and the Conservatives said they’re going to repeal this if they win [a general election],” said Prospect general secretary Mike Clancy. “We potentially have a two to three-year window to use these rights, so there’s a ticking clock, and you’ll see unions being assertive because we don’t have the luxury of time.”

The CBI said: “The framework for industrial relations should reinforce that culture of collaboration, not create incentives for conflict. Businesses are concerned that the rules on access provide insufficient safeguards against a minority of trade unions that are uninterested in constructive engagement.”

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Equity loans for first-time buyers set to underpin new-build market

Emma Haslett

In the years after the financial crisis, the government had two problems: cheap credit was pushing up house prices, so first-time buyers struggled to get on the housing ladder, and housebuilding was at a record low.

In his 2013 budget, George Osborne announced a plan to tackle both. The Help to Buy scheme offered a government-backed equity loan of up to 20% (and, in a later iteration, 40%) of the value of a new-build home. In effect, it gave buyers a ready-made deposit and provided builders with a steady supply of customers.

In his attempt to kickstart housebuilding, Andy Burnham has a new version. Your First Home will give first-time buyers a 20% equity loan for new-build homes, allowing them to become homeowners with a deposit of as little as 2.5%. The scheme was announced just as figures from the Home Builders Federation showed the number of new homes given planning permission in the second quarter had fallen by 8% on the same period the year before, the lowest annual total since 2013.

So can this version of the scheme revitalise the market?

The original Help to Buy scheme "kickstarted private housebuilding back to levels we hadn't seen for over a decade, and quite quickly," according to Aneisha Beveridge, research director at Connells Group. By the time it ended in 2023, the rate of UK housebuilding had risen from 133,000 homes a year to more than 210,000. Some argued that it was artificially inflating house prices and pushing borrowers into negative equity – but last month an independent review said it had created a “fairly widespread recovery” in housebuilding.

But conditions are notably different today. Borrowing costs are higher – since 2013, the base rate has climbed 3.25 percentage points, which hit mortgage affordability and thus demand. The Iran War, meanwhile, has caused a sharp rise in construction costs. Last month Vistry, one of the UK's largest housebuilders, cut its profit forecast, saying the conflict will push up costs by between 3% and 4% this year.

This scheme's success may depend on as yet unannounced details. The government has hinted at price caps on homes sold through the scheme and income caps for those borrowing through it, but Emily Williams of Savills warned: "If it's too narrowly drawn, it won't provide enough help to housebuilders."

The Your First Home scheme gives people a reason to buy new-builds. Justin Tallis/Getty Images

Beveridge added. "It will need to be in place for at least three to five years, if not indefinitely, to give housebuilders the confidence to acquire land and build." For a government struggling to contain spending, that's quite a commitment.

What's important, said Williams, is giving the right signals. "It gives people a reason to choose new-build, and it gives housebuilders more certainty over potential sales."

However, the government said last week that in exchange the property market must clean itself up. At the Labour party conference, the housing minister, Angela Rayner, outlined plans to cap “rip-off” fees for leaseholders and introduce an independent regulator and a licensing scheme for property agents.

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[Weather] UK and Ireland | | Today | Monday | Tuesday | Low | High | Low | High | Low | High | Belfast | 9 | 18 | 14 | 17 | 10 | 13 | Birmingham | 4 | 19 | 12 | 20 | 12 | 19 | Bristol | 9 | 18 | 12 | 18 | 12 | 18 | Dover | 12 | 20 | 10 | 20 | 11 | 20 | Edinburgh | 9 | 17 | 15 | 18 | 10 | 14 | Glasgow | 10 | 17 | 14 | 17 | 9 | 14 | Inverness | 11 | 17 | 14 | 17 | 7 | 13 | Leeds | 7 | 17 | 14 | 19 | 14 | 17 | Leicester | 7 | 19 | 13 | 20 | 13 | 19 | Liverpool | 6 | 20 | 13 | 20 | 13 | 17 | London | 11 | 22 | 10 | 22 | 11 | 21 | Manchester | 6 | 18 | 13 | 20 | 13 | 17 | Newcastle | 5 | 16 | 14 | 18 | 11 | 14 | Norwich | 9 | 21 | 9 | 21 | 11 | 21 | Plymouth | 9 | 20 | 10 | 19 | 11 | 19 | Swansea | 7 | 18 | 14 | 18 | 14 | 18 | Dublin | 7 | 18 | 16 | 19 | 11 | 14 |

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Around the world | | Today | Monday | Low | High Weather | Low | High Weather | Amsterdam | 11 | 19 fair | 11 | 21 fair | Athens | 17 | 23 windy | 16 | 25 sunny | Auckland | 10 | 17 fair | 7 | 17 cloudy | Baghdad | 24 | 32 showers | 23 | 35 fair | Beijing | 13 | 21 fair | 8 | 25 sunny | Belgrade | 7 | 24 sunny | 6 | 24 sunny | Berlin | 10 | 20 cloudy | 8 | 21 cloudy | Brussels | 10 | 21 sunny | 9 | 21 fair | Budapest | 3 | 24 sunny | 3 | 24 sunny | Buenos Aires | 7 | 23 fair | 12 | 22 cloudy | Cairo | 20 | 29 haze | 20 | 29 fair | Cape Town | 12 | 28 cloudy | 14 | 25 sunny | Copenhagen | 11 | 16 fair | 11 | 18 fair | Dublin | 7 | 18 cloudy | 16 | 19 cloudy | Geneva | 13 | 23 showers | 11 | 23 fair | Gibraltar | 21 | 24 showers | 22 | 24 showers | Across

1 Onerous (physical work) (12)

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24 Emotional paternal substitute (6,6) | Low | High | Weather | Low | High | Weather | Helsinki | 8 | 14 | showers | 6 | 14 | showers | Hong Kong | 27 | 31 | rain | 25 | 30 | fair | Istanbul | 15 | 22 | windy | 14 | 22 | fair | Jerusalem | 14 | 26 | sunny | 16 | 25 | fair | Kingston | 27 | 33 | rain | 27 | 33 | rain | Kolkata | 27 | 35 | sunny | 26 | 35 | haze | Kyiv | 8 | 19 | fair | 10 | 19 | cloudy | Los Angeles | 25 | 38 | sunny | 25 | 39 | sunny | Madrid | 16 | 23 | storms | 15 | 25 | storms | Melbourne | 10 | 16 | fair | 7 | 19 | fair | Mexico City | 14 | 21 | rain | 15 | 22 | rain | Miami | 27 | 32 | storms | 26 | 32 | storms | Moscow | 2 | 12 | cloudy | 8 | 13 | showers | Nairobi | 16 | 28 | fair | 16 | 27 | fair | Nassau | 26 | 32 | showers | 26 | 32 | storms | New York City | 14 | 17 | rain | 14 | 20 | sunny | Down

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Fun & games for all the family Observers needed How many eights can you make? These dominoes are all in a jumble. How many eights can you make using pips that are side by side or above and below? Once you're finished, why not cut them out and play a game of dominoes!

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Octopus day

It's world octopus day on Thursday, in celebration of one of the most intelligent marine dwellers on the planet. So take a deep dive and see if you can spot...

□ A cowboy crab riding a seahorse

□ An eight ball

□ A squid wearing lipstick

□ A football

□ Two lost rings □ An octopus with seven legs

□ A clown fish

□ An octopus in camouflage

□ A fork

□ A fish with an umbrella

Illustration by Anita Mangan

Your weekly logic page featuring two puzzles compiled exclusively for The Observer

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How to dress this autumn

For the past few years, the fashion industry has been defined by a kind of creative-director musical chairs. Jonathan Anderson moved from Loewe to Dior; Matthieu Blazy moved from Bottega Veneta to Chanel. A fortnight ago, Glenn Martens announced he was stepping down from his head designer role at Diesel to concentrate on his other gig, as creative director of Maison Margiela. It seemed like just another example of the fashion world merry-go-round. And yet... Martens had achieved the impossible at Diesel – making a mass-market brand appeal to fashion's in-crowd – and despite the industry's constant changes, experts expressed shock at his sudden departure. What happened? Why now? Martens was designing nine collections a year – an unbelievable workload. Perhaps he was just tired? Or was there something more serious at play? Ahead of Martens's departure, writer Shaad D'Souza travelled to Diesel's imposing glass-and-steel HQ in Italy to sit down with the designer. In a wide-ranging interview, they discussed Martens's boundary-pushing work, his surprising career trajectory and what made him leave at the peak of his success.

Also in this special menswear issue, Charlie Teasdale dives into the preppy trend's big comeback following Ralph Lauren's triumphant AW26 menswear show. Despite nearly 60 years in the biz, the King of Prep had never shown the menswear collection in its own runway show until this year, but its success is proof that prep is bigger and better than ever.

And if you think fashion means hefty price tags, you might be pleased to know that the high street is back, thanks to several big-name designer appointments and a commitment to quality without a corresponding price hike. There's never been a better time to look stylish on a budget.

Thanks for reading. We hope this issue inspires a few wardrobe choices.

Helen Seamons

Fashion editor

Cover image: Federico Ciamei

The Observer Magazine • 22 Berners Street,

London W1T 3LP • magazine@observer.co.uk.

Printed at Walstead Bicester Ltd, Chaucer Business Park, Launton Road, Bicester, OX26 4QZ

(3) Stonethence (4) Saffron (5). The War of the Woods (6) Sheffield Wednesday (7) Facebook (8), Paris, London, Milan, New York (9) Black II) Prompanate, 12) Tejon (13) Slovenia (14) Edward Encinful (15) Cat (16) Nottingham (17) The 400 Blues (18) The revolution

Shop the menswear high-street edit, p23

CONTRIBUTORS

Mark Anthony Fox

(Homes, p29)

Mark is a photographer known for his evocative approach to interiors, architecture and lifestyle.

If you could swap wardrobes with anyone who would it be?

"Paul Newman – without a doubt!"

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Matilda Hill-Jenkins

(An hour with, p9)

Matilda is a London-based photographer who creates intimate photographs with a focus on connection, community and craft.

If you could only ever wear one pair of jeans, what would they be?

"A pair of vintage white Wrangler jeans I bought off eBay for a friend a few years ago. I was trying to encourage her to shop secondhand. We measured her properly, but they still didn't fit... I took them home and realised they fit me perfectly! They're now my most worn pair."

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Charlie Teasdale

Charlie Feasiture

(Preppy fashion, p24)

Charlie is a journalist and author covering style, culture and lifestyle for publications including Esquire, Financial Times and Wall Street Journal.

What item will you be borrowing from this season's preppy trend?

"I love the made-in-Scotland Shaggy Dog sweaters at J Press."

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Federico Ciamei

(Glenn Martens, p14)

Federico is a photographer born in Rome and based in Milan. He likes photographing people doing things they love, going to places he

doesn't know and having lazy, slow breakfasts. What is the best fashion purchase you've ever made? "A pair of trousers from a small shop in Tokyo. Now I want a second pair but there's no brand written anywhere and I can't remember where the shop was. So I wear them very carefully and only for special occasions."

Shaad d'Souza

(Glenn Martens, p14)

Shaad is the editor of Shaad Magazine, an Instagram-based publication, and contributor to the New York Times, Vogue, GQ and many more.

What item of clothing would you (or have you!) borrowed from your dad?

"I've taken all my dad's best stuff and promptly lost it or ruined it. Sorry Dad!"

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[Observations] We've forgotten the joy of an unexpected little gift

My friend Chris came to breakfast the other day with a small, perfect, beautiful little belated birthday gift for me: an antique ashtray stamped with the logo of a discontinued whisky brand, which he found at a very small French market in Primrose Hill. It's a simply gorgeous item – milky-white glass stamped with stars-and-stripes red and blue fonts – and, even though I only really smoke when I'm showing off to people, it's just so me, and to be seen is to be loved. I gasped when I saw it. “I can burn little cones of incense in it,” I said, because that's what it's like to hang out with me. “I could put it in– hmm. Front room, maybe? Or: actually, it could be nice on a sideboard I have in my bedroom.” After quite a lot of that, Chris quietly informed me I could put it where I want and it really doesn't matter and he doesn't need to hear all my thinking about it, out loud, but he was glad I broadly liked the thing.

I am advocating for adding a bit more ‘thoughtful little gift’ energy to your life, because they are as fun to give as they are to receive

Chris has form: last year he turned up with a deck of cards, because he heard me say once that I like cool decks of cards (I do). For a cumulative £10 spread across two separate years, he has delighted me entirely, and writing this I realise I owe him something nice in return. But then that's the joy of small gifts: you see something a friend might like, in passing, and pick it up and save it for the next time you see them. Or you do what my friends do on holiday, which is remember to send joke postcards, the handwriting beach-drunk erratic and loopy, and it turns up weeks later as a surprise, and you can tell they were cackling stupidly when they did it.

I am often in used bookshops buying a little stack of postcards – I am pretentious, we can admit this – and I love buying handsome copies of books I already have, writing something inside them, wrapping them neatly in brown packing paper and sending them as a surprise to my friends. If you've spent more than a tenner on anything like this you have messed up.

I think always-on communication like we have now (you know, with phones, emails, Slack) has made us forget about gifts. When it's someone's birthday, I could just send a fun "hb" text and be done with it. But items, actual items, are heavy with something spooky and imbued with their own sentimental energy. A gift is a gift forever.

I am advocating for adding a bit more “thoughtful little gift” energy to your life, because they are as fun to give as they are to receive, and it gives you something to do on a Sunday beyond reading this bit of the magazine quickly before getting to the better stuff. Try it today: go to a car-boot sale with a heavy pocket of 50p pieces and buy some mad little trinket for a pal. I promise you’ll feel delighted. ●

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LIFE CHOICES BY HANNAH CROSBIE

A tastemaker's diary

As a long-time lover of tennis, I've decided to stop watching from the sidelines and get involved. I'm doing this by taking lessons in my

Next week we'll do backhand. "That way you'll be able to do both of the sides," my coach said, as he flipped through his phone, unaware he had struck comedy gold. I feel I've got my money's worth by experiencing this moment alone – screw the motor skills.

To reset my fried nervous system I've been listening to a lot of ambient music recently. Something about those frequencies smooths out the rough edges. This is the next logical step after years of tuning into "lofi hip-hop radio beats to

relax/study to" on YouTube. If you like this kind of thing, too, I'd love to point you in the direction of Slow Bloom, a

monthly radio show on DO!! YOU!! Radio. There are currently 11 hour-long shows available; the most recent begins with the Lord of the Rings soundtrack, morphs into Bach's Orchestral Suite No 3 and eventually transforms into the psychedelic ambient

field recordings of Rainforest Spiritual Enslavement. The bag is mixed, but the brain is smooth.

Hey, babe, you should totally watch Widow's Bay. No babe, seriously, it's so good. It's kind of like Twin Peaks (someone in that writers room was definitely Lynch-maxxing) and its Welsh star, Matthew Rhys (pictured left): total Dilf. Rhys, who is 51, is newly a record-breaker; at the recent Emmys, he became the first person to win two lead actor awards on the same night. Sometimes the discourse around television shows can be disorienting. (Is it good? Are people just jumping on a bandwagon?) But I am here to report that Widow's Bay is actually wonderful. If you like New England horror (Stephen King, The Witch) but also a conspiracy story (Twin Peaks, Welcome to Nightvale, Gravity Falls) you'll get something out of this latest from the creepy attic of America. ●

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Dr.Mortens

14:30 London Euston

19:17 Glasgow Central

TICKET TYPE

First Class

A city break.

Before going here,

there and everywhere.

Why not have

everything

come to you?

AN

perfect hour...

Waking up on holiday in Ibiza.

I'll have a cup of tea on

a balcony that overlooks the

beach, read my book, eat

breakfast and then go and

jump in the water.

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Which era in history would you like to have lived through?

It's dependent on whether I go as myself or not, because history hasn't been kind to Black and brown people. I have a fascination with Victorian England, and I would have loved to have seen the construction of the pyramids in ancient Egypt, but I'd be in disguise.

If you could spend five minutes with someone famous, dead or alive, who would it be?

Sade. She comes up in so many of my creative conversations as a symbol of intelligence, beauty and timelessness. I'm trying to get her out of retirement so I can meet her – or even dress her – one day.

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What period of your life do you daydream about the most?

The two-year period before my stepdad passed away. I'd just started my own clothing brand and we were both working from home. He was extremely supportive and I'm grateful he was there to witness my life changing in an exciting way.

When was the last time you stole something?

I have friends that steal glasses from the pub, which end up at my house for some reason. I don't take them myself – I like my glassware to be matching – but I'm handling stolen goods.

What was the last gift that you received? My last meaningful gift was from my best friend, who spent ages finding the vinyl of a house track called

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PRIYA AHLUWALIA

The British fashion designer and creative director launched her eponymous apparel label in 2018. Her clothing explores her dual Indian-Nigerian heritage and has been worn by stars including Wunmi Mosaku, Keke Palmer and Aimee Lou Wood.

Back Together by Hardsoul ft Ron Carroll. It's a song that reminds me of my stepdad. I couldn't stop crying when she gave it to me.

What was the last song you Shazammed? In Your Eyes by George Benson. I knew the song, but I couldn't remember who the artist was. I cannot get over Shazam. Every day I'm like, how on earth does this work?

When was the last time you checked social media? Ten minutes ago. I'm trying to be more intentional with my free time, so I don't always go to my phone. I paint, I've tried candle-making and screenwriting, and I've just signed up for piano lessons. When you lock into something creatively, your mind opens and you can be free.

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When was the last time you cried?

Yesterday. I've been having an emotional one lately, I'm not gonna lie. It's more reflection and overwhelm. My clothing brand is turning eight, which I'm very proud of, but I have a lot of responsibilities. I've been surviving on four hours' sleep for weeks.

When is the best time to leave a party?

Nothing fantastic happens after 2am. Do I practice what I preach? Not necessarily.

If you could go back in time, what would you say to your 18-year-old self? Be present, enjoy the ride, carry on writing in your diary, keep partying and spend time building confidence in yourself.

If you make it to your 100th birthday, what would be the reason? Because I followed my nana's advice to keep my mind busy. At 80, she's up to date with technology, walks everywhere and stays active, so I will have done the same. ●

NATURAL STONE

PORCELAIN

& DECORATIVE TILES

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'The beauty makeover shows of 20 years ago broke women down to rebuild them. It was compulsive telly'

Where once I might have settled in to relish a reality show, now I must settle for documentaries about the horrors of a reality show. You can tell by the gait of my gaze, you can tell by my lunch,

I am of the generation that came of age in the early 2000s, the era of “size zero”, the red “circle of shame” around celebrities’ cellulite, yet even then, the makeover reality shows that emerged still had the power to shock. In the UK we were spoiled, with Trinny and Susannah on What Not to Wear (where they stripped women naked and said their hair looked whorish) and Ten Years Younger, where passersby called contestants hags before they were swished off for a facelift. In the US there was The Swan, widely considered the most offensive show of all and thus the most popular in an era where the snipping of contestants' eyelid skin had become a valid form of entertainment. This is the subject of a new documentary, The Swan: Behind the Mirror, that revisits its original “ugly ducklings” 20 years after they each left their families for three months of surgery, extreme diets, exercise and dental work before competing in bikinis at a beauty pageant. One contestant said breezily that her uncle thought she’d been trafficked, and looking back, realises he was not entirely wrong.

The makeover show requires a woman to be ceremoniously pulped, her body and often her being, too, broken down and rebuilt. In The Swan, surgeons discuss smashing a woman's bones to “feminise her face”, removing “masculine teeth” to “find her feminine smile” – the more you watch the more it becomes clear the femininity (and the entertainment) comes from having

seen the painful process required to exhume the woman beneath. The surgeon explains that one contestant is actually quite pretty, but it's his job to get rid of all the mess (the nose, the teeth, the jaw) hiding that beauty. Today, The Swan's lead plastic surgeon Dr Randal Haworth says, "There are no victims in life, only volunteers," and, sagely, "You want to see drama!"

And he's not wrong. Half a million women applied to be on the show, which saw 10m viewers an episode, and online clips of the “reveals” racking up many millions more. People talk about slowing down for car crashes, but this is different, a sort of delicious doubling of reality. These before-and-after reveals are hypnotic not because the results are so spectacular, but because we can see, behind the white veneers, the person they used to be. The same thing happens, again and again – the boob job, the cankle surgery, the tears – and every time we marvel. Personally, I longed for a twist, like the Changing Rooms episodes where a homeowner hated her redesign (or watched in horror as their antique teapot collection crashed to the ground), but in the doc we learn that swans were required to reshoot the reaction to their reflections until they appeared appropriately teary.

The fact these women went three months denied of any reflective surfaces seems just as eerie and folkloric as their telegenic reincarnation. How did this contribute to the disintegration of their old selves, I wonder, the fact it was not only the sight of their friends and families that was hidden from them but their own faces? The only other time mirrors are traditionally concealed is after death as a mark of profound loss and when superstitions position them as gateways to the afterlife, or in the case of The Swan, before-life.

There are moments of horror, such as when the surgeon discovers cancer mid-nose-job, and the realisation they wore opera gloves during reveals because, while the surgeons had done all they could to their faces, their arms remained unacceptable. Twenty years on, the swans tell the same stories, about veneers falling out, and breast implants shifting, and no health insurance to maintain their new bodies or lives, and their chil-

dren not recognising them, and returning home to the same abusive relationships, where they were still told they were ugly.

While gulping with guilt at the grot of this era of reality TV, though, I can't ignore the fact the makeover plot, like the tragedy, comedy or quest, has a terribly moreish kind of peace to it. It's a shame so many noses had to be broken and lives crushed because for all its torture, it was great telly. ●

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STYLE NOTES BY HELEN SEAMONS

Menswear's answer to a dress and boots is boots is monochrome dressing: it's easy to assemble and requires minimal thought, although it does require more items than its womenswear equivalent.

For winter it works best with a neutral like black, navy, grey or brown. It's essentially a two-step process. Step 1: pick a colour. Step 2: wear almost everything in that colour – and voilà! But a few tips can help refine the look. Work backwards from your coat, as that's the most expensive piece. Rich chocolate brown is very now; layer a relaxed suit with an overcoat.

Or start with a T-shirt, layer up with an overshirt, and add a boxy-fit jacket. The pieces don't need to match the exact same shade; slight variations add depth to the look. Think about proportions and what works well together. Mix textures, like hopsack or herringbone tailoring with a brushed mohair sweater and a wool overcoat. Brands that do monochrome edits well include Oliver Spencer, NNo7, Universal Works and Arket.

Pay attention to finishing details. One piece of jewellery or a watch in a complementary tone is all you need. Silver works well with greys and navy, while gold and copper suit browns and will warm up black. At the IM Men show in Paris, a hint of a contrast-pattern shirt was used to break up the brown – it's a useful hack to steal and you can swap the print for a plain white T-shirt. It's all about a pop of contrast.

We've focused on brown here, but that doesn't mean black is out (black is always in). Either way, monochrome is unforgiving at showing up any bit of fluff or pet hair, so with any dark shade keep a lint roller near the front door for a swift once-over before you leave the house. It will be £2 well spent.

Clothing and shoes by IM Men; sunglasses by Tanaka Eyewear

Photograph BRIAN DALY

Model IBBY

Designer GLENN MARTENS transformed Diesel from a tacky denimwear brand into a mass-market global label that also appealed to fashion's in-crowd. So why did he suddenly quit?

Photographs

FEDERICO CIAMEI

Right in the centre of Veneto, an arid industrial and agricultural centre in northern Italy, lies a palace. The vast, fortified space, made entirely of glass and steel, sitting outside Breganze, an hour west of glamorous, crumbling Venice and an hour east of fair Verona, stands in stark contrast to the dusty strip malls and creaky industrial parks dotted around it. I visited on a stifling day in late June, by which time nearly all the grass in Italy had been broiled to a pallid brown; when my chauffeur pulled into the carport of the main building, a sheltered space next to a greenish pond, it felt like I’d been driven on to the set of Dune...

Inside, I was met with a devastatingly trendy kind of opulence: a huge, minimal space flanked by hanging gardens on opposing walls; faded patchwork carpets made of old Persian rugs; and a gigantic armchair that had been intentionally distressed, I'm sure, to reflect the artfully shredded denim being designed a few floors up. At the centre of the lobby, a gorgeous, waifish, disaffected receptionist sat behind a spaceship-like desk, fabricated from patchworked steel. Welcome to Palazzo del Diesel.

What comes to mind when you think about Diesel? Perhaps you think of too-tight, too-dark jeans stretched on to too-muscular men. Overstuffed outlet shops near your hometown, frequented by pre-teens rifling through the racks in search of a secondary school appropriate rebrand. Maybe you remember the brand's somewhat dubious former logo – the profile of a handsome, chiselled Mohican – which is still carved into the dark floorboards of the Breganze headquarters. This was certainly my memory of Diesel for many years: tacky, tasteless, depressingly unbidden by the trends of fashion writ large.

I was in Breganze that week, though – sweating through my Talking Heads T-shirt on a 38C day – because everything I once knew about Diesel was no longer true. In just a few years, the Italian denim brand had undergone a radical and hugely successful transformation. No longer fodder for tourists, Diesel had become arguably the sexiest store on the high street, and the rare mass-market brand that appeals to fashion's in-crowd. The silhouettes were scrunched and sexy; the palette was lurid and surreal, relying on bright colours and trompe l'oeil; and the jeans always, always, seemed to fit perfectly.

The brand's transformation could be attributed to the man I was there to see: Glenn Martens, the former Y/Project wunderkind who has won the title of Your Favourite Fashion Student's Favourite Designer for a few years running now. Sitting next to me in his office upstairs, deep in the palazzo's rabbit-warren structure, he made the turnaround sound deceptively simple: "My most important thing at Diesel is to make so many people feel great because they're wearing denim that makes them look sexy and feel like they have a great ass," he said, flashing a mischievous smile. "That's my main goal."

What a line, right? Martens is a charmer of the highest order, and you get the sense that everyone around him absolutely loves him. Ahead of meeting him, the publicists who escorted me upstairs to his office – three Italian women who hovered nervously like fruit flies – kept talking about how lovely he is, how much his staff love him, what an incredible turnaround he had achieved with the brand. When we sat down at a large glass table in his office, he offered me water, sweets, coffee, all of which I declined, until finally he hit on electrolytes, something I was actually interested in. "Ahh, great!" he exclaimed, satisfied he'd found something with which to woo me. He and the staff had a party last night, he explained, so everyone was on the electrolytes. Based on every interview he's ever done, I suggested, he and his staff are always partying. "It's actually true – the problem with this company is that we all are working from abroad. We all come in here to work, because we're all living in Milan or whatever," he said. "We're all staying in the same hotel and we get along very, very, very well, so we always have dinners together, and then party, and there's always a bottle too much."

Martens does not fit the usual superstar designer template. He doesn't seem to be feared by his staff. I've never heard rumours of him committing any kind of casual abuse, against humans or animals, unlike some of his contemporaries. "I would say that Glenn is beloved in the industry – having a conversation with him makes me giddy with delight," Steff Yotka, editor-in-chief of i-D magazine, told me. She remembers being at Matthieu Blazy's debut show for Chanel, and noting how in awe Martens was of the set, and how unafraid he was to express said awe. "A lot of fashion people trade on pretension to add a level of security – it's a very insecure industry – but Glenn is so human and so relatable and so kind."

It's that relatability, perhaps, that's allowed him to take a company with hundreds of retail locations and thousands of employees and, in a matter of years, completely overhaul it. When he was first appointed to the role of creative director in 2020, “there were so many people working in Diesel, but they were all from different eras of the company, so there was a very strong disconnection within what they believed Diesel was,” he told me. In the company's almost 50 years of operation, it's been everything to everyone, at different price points, which felt like a “complicated” legacy to contend with. “When I arrived, I really thought it was a very dated brand – to be honest, I think the average customer was male, over 45, very probably homophobic, very probably sexist,” he said. “And I knew Diesel according to when I fell in love with it back in the 2000s, which was the pop era, a really funky Diesel. But between that moment and my arrival five years ago, it had lived different lives.”

What Martens did, he told me, was bring back a language that spoke to Diesel's 1990s and 2000s peak, “not really reinventing it, just resetting it to the original family values,” he said. “It’s all about fun, pop, lifestyle. [The brand’s motto] For Successful Living, the cheekiness, that’s really the ethos of the brand.”

Martens's work at Diesel upended the industry in significant ways. He live-streamed preparations for each runway show, and $\rightarrow$ 'My goal at Diesel was to make denim that made people feel like they had a great ass'

made a number of his Diesel shows open to the public, in contrast to the typical idea of a runway presentation as an exclusive, rarefied event. “There’s a community element to it – he’s democratising fashion a little bit, making it less this out-of-reach thing,” Chris Horan, Charli XCX’s stylist, told me.

Martens accepted the job in part because of how few luxury designers get to speak to a mainstream audience. “During Covid I was like, ‘Am I going to do superficial fashion for all my life?’” he said. His work at Diesel, he decided, would reshape the brand’s DNA and rebuild it as a sustainable denim company. When he began at Diesel, it used 3% recycled or regenerative cotton; within two and a half years, that figure was more than 50%. “Most of my customers are having the same very harsh life – they don’t have the time to think about sustainability. So with a brand like Diesel, you can bring a little bit of awareness,” he said. “But it comes with a big stress. We have 3,000 employees worldwide. That’s one of the first things [Diesel founder] Renzo [Rosso] told me when I started doing quite aggressive changes: ‘If you fail, that’s a lot of families which don’t have money tomorrow.’”

That day, Martens was wearing his life story. His boots belonged to his father, a judge, and were older than him. His jeans were Maison Margiela, where he also works as head designer. (Both brands are owned by OTB, an Italian luxury conglomerate with a smaller portfolio than larger groups like LVMH and Kering.) He wore a faded vintage paisley shirt, given to him by a friend, and over that an oversized blue button-down shirt whose collar was threaded with wire, making it flexible and structured, a design from his collaboration with H&M from last year that calls back to his time at Y/Project, the French label where Martens worked for many years, and which he managed to turn into one of the most beloved cult brands in recent memory.

He is handsome – a young 43 – with roguish features and tousled brown hair. Or, as he explained to the makeup artist before his shoot for this piece: “I like the hair messy and then, normally for the face, I just ask to look hot, sexy and young. No smoky eyes... More like you’ve been partying for two days. I just want to look a bit more dark and sexy.”

Martens was raised in Bruges in the 1980s: sleepy plazas, churches and canals. Growing up, it felt like the middle of nowhere, and as such had a fairytale quality. “Your reality is like Disneyland,” he said. “It’s a really, really beautiful city.” He went to a public high school and learned little about art or music, and there wasn't much to discover in the broadly conservative town. "I was always a bit of an outsider because I was already having a little bit of these artistic vibes, even though I wasn't aware of it," he said. "I wasn't even gay yet, but I was bullied when I was 14, 15, because I was a bit too strange."

Martens said that if he had known pursuing fashion as a career was an option, he might have chosen it earlier but, being in Bruges, he chose the next best thing: architecture. He had completed his degree and was in the middle of completing an internship, when he saw an advertisement for intake exams at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. He took the exam on a whim – he knew it was a beautiful school, and thought it might be nice to study in such an environment – and ended up being one of 80 students accepted from 400 applicants. At that point, the fashion school within the academy was already renowned, having turned out the “Antwerp six,” a group of some of the most important fashion designers of all time including Dirk Bikkembergs, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester, less than two decades earlier. Martens knew what an incredible opportunity it was. “It felt like... you were so blessed to be part of this thing,” he said. “I was very, very lucky.”

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'Being a media darling can obscure important realities about clothing. Like, who is buying Diesel jeans for \$550 in this economy?'

Looks from Diesel's autumn/winter 2026 catwalk shows

Martens ended up graduating first in his class and took a position working under Jean Paul Gaultier, at his eponymous label. It was there he realised “when you work in fashion, you really have to love fashion. It’s not your job where you can just go in and out. It can be a bitch in moments, so you have to be ready for it.”

From there, Martens knew he had to start his own label, if only because he “knew [he] was a very bad assistant, and would never really be good in a house assisting people – I’m very stubborn, super annoying in that way.” But nobody would have given him a senior position anywhere either. So for three seasons he ran his eponymous label Glenn Martens. The whole thing, he said, was torturous. “I’m so bad at anything with numbers – how to open an Excel file, even – and you have to do that when you have your own brand,” he said. “I did it the first year I moved to Paris, so I didn’t even have a network there, I didn’t know anybody. I always saw it more as a portfolio for a potential future job.”

It worked. In 2013, Martens was appointed creative director of Y/Project, an avant-garde label founded by the designer Yohan Serfaty. That label had been Serfaty's baby; these days, most fans of the brand likely believe it was founded by Martens to begin with. He turned it into one of fashion's most beloved niche brands, and a defining label for Gen-Z fashion freaks, known for its unconventional silhouettes – many items were modular, and could be totally refashioned thanks to liberal use of velcro and buttons – and trompe l'oeil designs.

Of course, working for such a scrappy label proved difficult. “We made a lot of mistakes and we didn’t prioritise certain things we should have prioritised – like, make sure you always deliver your clothes on time, not two months late,” said Martens. The label closed in 2025, after its owner, Gilles Elalouf, died. It has since been sold to a Chinese investment group which asked Martens to return, an offer he declined. “Let’s see, maybe they revive it,” he told me. “I was excited when I heard about that.”

In Breganze, Martens told me he was focused on his future at Diesel and Margiela. "When I arrived here five years ago, I was hired for very specific directions," he said. "They didn't have Gen Z or girls. Now, I hear the opposite – they want us to have millennials and men." He went on, "The problem is that I'm not the boss, I'm the creative director, so I have to follow what the brand wants. With a brand like Margiela, the attitude and the spirit of the brand shields you – you know what the brand stands for. A lifestyle brand like Diesel doesn't have one specific customer in mind – it can go in many directions."

Ultimately, he said, the future of Diesel was in the hands of Andrea Rigogliosi, the company's incoming CEO, the brand's fourth since 2018. "We have no idea, really, to be honest," he said. "The new CEO just arrived and it's a bit more dependent on him. We're very happy that this person knows what he wants, or knows that he has seniority. We don't know where he wants to go."

And then Martens found out. In Breganze, his comments on Rigogliosi seemed to me like designer aloofness. Now it scans as caginess. A couple of weeks ago, almost completely out of the blue, Martens announced he was stepping down from Diesel, but remaining at Margiela, with little explanation as to why.

Given how well the designer had done at Diesel, it seemed an odd decision. The consensus among fashion insiders I spoke to is that Martens's turnaround of Diesel was truly successful and truly brilliant, but that the fantasy of luxury fashion may have started bumping up against the more pragmatic realities of a brand with hundreds of stores and a mainstream consumer base. "No one was buying it – commercially and spiritually," one New York-based fashion consultant told me, who spoke under condition of anonymity. "I think being a media darling can sometimes obscure important realities about clothing. Like, who is buying Diesel jeans for \$550 in this economy?"

Sceptics wondered if it was all part of a deal: if Martens could revitalise Diesel, he could continue at Margiela, a much more creative position. “Before Glenn, Diesel had been culturally irrelevant and he was brought on to give it a bit more relevance. The timing was interesting, because there was already something happening with [vintage] Diesel and the Y2K resurgence,” a former buyer for a major retailer tells me. By doubling down on that Gen Z pushed Y2K wave, he says, Martens was able to make luxury retailers interested in Diesel, perhaps for the first time ever. “He’s obviously been successful. There was a period where you were seeing the logo everywhere on everyone. That moment has passed, but he’s re-established the brand codes, and created a framework for another designer to come in.”

Vanessa Friedman, fashion director and chief fashion critic at the New York Times, told me that Martens's departure is a “completely logical evolution. I think he was instrumental in making Diesel a show that everyone goes to – both a great denim brand and also one that really pushes the limits of design in a very contemporary way,” she said. “It was a big brand, but he’s now made it into an even bigger brand.

Margiela is also a big and important brand, and it's probably just too much work for one person. If you want to design at the level he designs at, it takes time. You have to make mistakes. You have to experiment. And you need time to do it."

Fashion workloads are famously brutal – few designers have been able to manage two large, high-profile labels without suffering to some degree. Even Jonathan Anderson, having designed for his eponymous label and Loewe for many years, scaled back JW Anderson when he took over as lead designer at Dior.

“I think the work Glenn has been doing at Margiela is really interesting and creative, and I just can’t imagine how big the workload was to do both,” says the stylist Katie Grand. “I think he’s left Diesel in a really exciting position. It’s sad he’s moving to just do Margiela, but I’m sure someone very exciting will be doing Diesel soon.”

The anonymous fashion criticism account Boring Not Com says that “it was time” for Martens to leave Diesel, if only because “he was losing momentum by trying to do both at the same time”. The anonymous account says that couture at Margiela has been “great,” but that Martens needs to focus more on ready-to-wear. “I think his legacy is that he made Diesel exciting again and brought it back into the conversation,” they say. “With him focusing on Margiela full-time, I think we’ll see a more consistent vision across the whole brand.”

It's true that Martens's recent collections for Diesel had toned down the lasciviousness of his earlier work, as well as the complex fabrications, in favour of clothes that were far more wearable as part of an everyday wardrobe. His final collection, may have featured despicably horny performers making out and pole dancing – and an extended edit of Donna Summer's Love to Love You Baby featuring orgasmic moans – but the clothes were his most accessible yet, filled with garments that, while still avant-garde, wouldn't necessarily read as inappropriate on the everyday.

As Martens told me back in June, the brand's mandate was also changing slowly – from Gen Z and girls, which he had been brought in to capture, to millennials and men. The former buyer says you can feel a distinct shift in Martens's recent collections for the brand, which have been trending far more muted. "I think they're now at a point where they need to be appealing towards a broader customer and not alienating millennials or even younger Gen-Xers who would have been wearing the brand in its heyday, especially given the fickle nature of Gen-Z shopping habits," says the former buyer. "There's been a wider shift in fashion, away from directional product towards a more conservative way of dressing."

One question remains: who will take the reins at Diesel now? At the time of writing, general consensus around London seems to be that Knwls, the

London-based duo of Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault, have been lined up to take on the job for a few months. (Grand, without saying who would take the job, noted that the brand's next stewards “are British.”) Knwls worked with Martens on Diesel for a time, and their trademark aesthetic – hyper-sexualised, denim-heavy, but altogether less avant-garde than Martens's work – would make sense for the direction the brand has been going in.

Another source tells me, emphatically, that the job has gone to Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient, the Swiss-born, Berlin-based designers behind the cult label Ottolinger, whose earthy, organic cool-girl designs offer a deconstructed, sportswear-inspired take on going-out clothes. Neither duo has designed menswear before; reps for both declined to comment on the possibility of their appointment.

After his final show last Tuesday during Milan Fashion Week, Martens, for his part, seemed overjoyed. “It’s very bittersweet because it’s really my baby – that’s why I chose... [Love to Love You Baby]. The whole design team since day one has never changed,” Martens said backstage at the show. “The whole company changed, but my design team has been the same people. I’m going to be very sad to leave them. They’re really like family.” ●

PHOTO COURTESY OF RALPH LAUREN

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Join the Ivy League

Once confined to American campuses,

PREPPY STYLE is back in vogue with

its timeless antidote to modern anxieties

In the future, when the machines have taken over, what will the remaining humans wear? Post-apocalyptic movies tend to assume that only the most utilitarian garb will sustain. Carhartt jack-

ets and army surplus, leather boots and trucker hats with faded logos of motor oil brands long lost to the ravages of time. But there's an argument to say that humanity will still find space in its subterranean wardrobes for spiffy blazers, stripy ties and chinos, because preppy style is not only reliably cyclical, but somehow inevitable. And right now, via hit TV shows and critically adored fashion collections, it's rising to one of its many peaks once again.

“I don’t think preppy ever really disappears, it’s always prep o’clock somewhere,” says Christopher Bastin, brand consultant and former creative director of Gant, one of the pillars of the preppy menswear scene. “Fashion periodically decides prep is cool, then deeply uncool, then discovers it again.”

Preppy style was born in America's coastal private schools in the 1970s and 1980s. Prep's forebear was the "ivy style" (as in, Ivy League) of the post-war decades, which saw university students take American formalwear – such as softly tailored "sack" suits, chino slacks and tweed blazers – and wear it much more casually with scruffy sportswear. The look was part-Beat poet, part-brawny jock, and still has a cult following to this day. (The 1965 photobook Take Ivy by Teruyoshi Hayashida is one of the foremost men's style reference books, too.)

Traditionally, prep has been more aggressively collegiate. “A little more harsh and moneyed,” says Paul

Simon, co-owner of John Simons, the ivy style mecca on London's Chiltern Street. Blazers, slacks, shirts, loafers; popped collars and institutional motifs: alma mater crests, acronyms that end in “U”, beasts rearing and/or roaring. Whereas ivy style quietly emerged via elite academia, prep proudly declared its social standing.

The prep of the 1980s and 90s was driven by brands like Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger, who established the basis of the look. It included (but was not limited to) navy blazers with gold-coloured buttons, diagonally striped “repp” ties, oxford cotton button-down shirts, boat shoes, penny loafers, cricket jumpers, let-terman jackets and rugby shirts. All realised in rich, pool-ball colours intended to make you pop out of the redbrick and privet hedge of a private school campus.

That element of the aesthetic is not for everyone. “I’ve never been interested in dressing as if I’m off to an Ivy League reunion,” says Bastin. First of all, I can’t pull it off, and second, I lack the proper pedigree. But if I’d gone to Yale

or Harvard, I think I'd have gone to town with it, to be honest."

Others, however, revel in the kitschness of it. For a day at this summer's Wimbledon championships, British GQ's head of editorial content Murray Clark opted to go all-in on prep, wearing a double-breasted navy blazer (replete with gold buttons), roomy tan chinos and a tennis-themed tie which was, he says, "a little bit on the nose". "I wanted something that clashed," he added, "and the navy blazer and slouchy chinos gave it

Tyler the Creator in Golf Le Fleur and Louis Vuitton that high/low look."

I dabbled in prep myself recently for a

By CHARLIE TEASDALE

Polo Ralph Lauren has led the preppy look for decades

wedding, pairing straight navy chinos with battered penny loafers, a very soft, off-white button-down shirt, and a sharp shouldered, double-breasted navy blazer with a subtle pinstripe. I kept it conservative and left the stripy tie out for fear of overdoing it, but the 1980s-style jacket and shoes bookended an otherwise straightforward look with a touch of Dead Poets Society insouciance.

However, in 2026's era of nostalgic culture, it not only harks back to halcyon school days, but serves as an irreverent tonic to the doom and gloom of the news cycle. Preppy clothes evoke a recent past where the world was a bit less everything everywhere all at once. It's partly why Love Story, the 2026 biopic series about John F Kennedy Jr and Carolyn Bessette was such a smash hit, and why there was a reported "JFK Jr effect" on menswear in the weeks and months that followed. All backward caps, school-stripe scarves and tennis shoes.

“Nostalgia is part of it, but I think it’s more about permanence,” says Bastin. “After years of hype, drops, enormous logos and incredibly fast trend cycles, there’s something reassuring about a look that feels like it’s always existed.”

Ralph Lauren has maintained prep – contained within the Polo sub-collection – as one of its various American-dream aesthetics throughout the brand's 60-year history, but this year, it put snappy collegiate style at the forefront, and the reception has been supremely positive. Rather than just reintroducing a new generation to the old classics, Lauren retooled prep in a Gen-Z vernacular, introducing baggier fits and adding zeitgeisty accessories, like crossbody bags and teeny, techy sun-glasses. "When I began designing menswear, I was drawn to timeless tradition, but never bound by it," said Lauren in the show notes. Vogue noted that it was the most-viewed men's show of → the season. And after steady growth over the past half-decade, Ralph Lauren surpassed \$8bn (£5.99bn) in revenue for the first time this year.

Elsewhere, Jack Carlson, former Oxford University coxswain and founder of ultra-preppy throwback brand Rowing Blazers, reportedly took over at J Press, another snappy American clothier founded 125 years ago, to great acclaim. Carlson plans to open 20 new stores across the US in the coming years, and fuel the expansion with argyle sweaters, tweed jackets, corduroy suits, rugbies, button-downs and ties.

In the UK, Savile Row's preppiest outfitter Drake's has just announced a November collaboration with cult Japanese label Beams, which itself follows the ivy/preppy design codes. And Dunhill creative director Simon Holloway, who has made the fusion of heritage sportswear and fine British tailoring the thrust of his tenure, has just been nominated for menswear designer at the upcoming British Fashion Awards.

So, if you've never explored the look before (or attended an American private school), how can you get into prep this autumn? Thankfully, there are building blocks. Start with a great pair of chinos, pleated and roomy in the leg. Then find a blue bengal-stripe oxford cotton shirt with a button-down collar, preferably something that has been softened by years of loving use. Next, a pair of simple penny loafers by the likes of Alden or GH Bass, and a bold knit that you can tie around the shoulders for added gaiety.

“I think the best and easiest way to do it is a rugby shirt,” says Clark. But it doesn’t need to be from a fashion brand, and something second-hand might even be preferable. “I get vintage rugbies from eBay and Vinted, and the collar is normally a bit more starchy and lived-in.”

The specific clothes themselves are perhaps less important than the scruffy vibe – you want to look as if you have just emerged freshly showered from a piney country club locker room, or like you're running late for a poetry tutorial in 1982. For inspiration, the late, supremely stylish David Hockney was a master of scruffy, irreverent, bookish style that stayed the right side of collegiate. (Though it's unlikely the notion of preppy dressing ever crossed his mind.)

For the uninitiated, Bastin offers succour. "Prep works for everyone," he says. "It's democratic in that way." And he's right, because who doesn't look good in a blue blazer and a nice pair of loafers? But Clark heeds restraint. "Just choose the one thing and let that be the thing that shows off," he advises. "You don't need all the bells and whistles, especially if it's not your usual setting. And know your limits. If you feel silly, you'll look silly. And that's not just for going preppy, that's my application to everything, however you dress."

Cable knit

cricket jumper,

£190, Horatio

Check shirt, £90,

John Simons

Boat shoes, £265, Mr P

Pleated chinos, £125, Community Clothing

Baseball cap,

£36, J Press

CAMPUS

CHIC

Easy pieces to

get the look

Striped cotton shirt, £225, Drake's

Rugby shirt,

£89, Opensider

Wool blazer, £557, J Crew

Deck shoes, £260, Goral

Shop The best menswear on the high street

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stars

Men's clothing on the high street has been getting a glow-up. It's now easier than ever to find good-quality pieces – from basics to tailoring – at affordable prices, partly because big names in the fashion world are being asked to take over our favourite house-hold name brands. Here's our pick of pieces from the most covetable collections...

Fashion editor

HELEN SEAMONS

Photographs

BRIAN DALY

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ALLSAINTS

Founded in 1994 in Spitalfields, east London, AllSaints is synonymous with a gritty London cool aesthetic. AW26 is the first collection designed by new creative director Aaron Esh, whose own label has become a hot ticket at London Fashion Week. Leather remains the central pillar of the AllSaints wardrobe, but under Esh it has been moved on from distressed black to new colours, finishes, weights and proportions, from cropped, sharply pitched silhouettes to boxy peacoats and fitted trucker styles. It's also not about youth. "I'm less interested in defining an AllSaints customer by age or demographic. I'm interested in character," says Esh. His debut collection, developed with stylist Katy England, draws on the brand's history, redeveloping archive styles for today's customer.

Key buys:

  • Miller leather jacket, £399
  • Tulip-print shirt, £119
  • Ombré stripe knit, £199

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JOHN LEWIS

Famous for its “never knowingly undersold” motto, John Lewis has been steadily expanding its menswear offer to include a host of cutting-edge, independent brands alongside its own brand lines, Kin, John Lewis and Anyday. New for autumn are APC, No Problemo and Labrum, with exclusive pieces available from Denham, Gant and Barbour. Tailoring is a category John Lewis excels in, with own-brand suiting sales up 169% on last year. Bestsellers include a 100%-wool pinstripe suit. Launching on 6 October is a collaboration with Clothsurgeon, bringing Savile Row expertise to the high street. Founder Rav Matharu says he was “excited” to work with the department store, saying “the collaboration has allowed us to express our aesthetic at a more accessible price”. Key pieces include the double-faced cashmere coat and double-breasted blazer (pictured right).

What to buy:

  • Slim-fit cord blazer, £170
  • Kin 3-in-1 jacket, £109
  • Cashmere double-breasted suit jacket, £210

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UNIQLO

Known for its affordable, well-cut denim and Heattech base layers, Uniqlo has carved out a niche for stylish basics and excellent designer collaborations. Under the guidance of creative director Clare Waight Keller (formerly of Pringle, Chloé, and Givenchy, where she designed Meghan Markle's wedding dress), Uniqlo's fashion credentials have risen. Insiders know the Uniqlo:C (designed by Waight Keller) and U:Uniqlo collections are where to head for style-led pieces. "It's about clothes that feel refined and considered, yet completely natural to wear," says Waight Keller. Also not to be missed are the JW Anderson collections (the same designer who heads up Dior), where you can pick up wardrobe heroes given Anderson's subversive styling treatment, including jeans for under £40.

What to buy:

  • Heattech cashmere-blend turtleneck, £22.90
  • Cashmere crewneck, £89
  • JWA Selvedge straight-leg jeans, £39.90

Mwathi wears denim jacket, £49.90; cardigan, £39.90; turtleneck, £22.90, and jeans, £39.90, all by Uniqlo. Shoes, £190, by Alohas

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MARKS & SPENCER

Marks & Spencer has been servicing our wardrobes for 100 years, and last month the retailer celebrated a century of style with a headline-grabbing show at London Fashion Week. All 59 looks were available to shop immediately – among the sold-out pieces was a bold blue v-neck knit (£49). “We’ve backed knitwear in a big way, bringing in new yarn innovation, better quality and more choice,” explains Mitch Hughes, director of M&S Man. M&S has quietly become a go-to for good-quality style staples at affordable prices (82% of the menswear collection is priced under £50). Hughes is positive M&S has “everything men need to dress confidently, from top to toe”. Standout categories for the new season include outerwear, such as a contrast-collar car coat and a feather-and-down puffer that could easily pass as a premium brand – plus footwear and accessories. Next time you pick up a prawn mayo sandwich for lunch, swing by the menswear floor.

What to buy:

  • Autograph Supima

T-shirt, £20

  • Suede zip tote, £50
  • Pure cotton waxed utility jacket, £90

Louis wears jacket, £49; shirt, £49; trousers, £30, and tote, £35, all by M&S. Shoes by Alohas, £150

Grooming by Krystle Gohel; fashion assistant Freya Goodchild-Bridge; models Louis Best and Mwathi Gakonga at Premier Model Management

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Subscribe to The Observer for £1 to join our Culture Club

Enjoy 50% off tickets to The Observer Book Club from Manchester Literature Festival

Author, comedian and host of The Guilty Feminist podcast, Deborah Frances-White 11 October, 4.30PM

Booker Prize-winning author

Yann Martel (Life of Pi)

14 October, 7.30PM

Acclaimed Korean American author Min Jin Lee (Pachinko)

21 October, 7.30PM

In conversation with The Observer's Erica Wagner

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At Home & At Large

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In Epping, an open house founded on radical kindness

just wanted to see what happens," says Penny Rimbaud, writer, poet, philosopher, painter, activist and co-founder of the anarchist punk band Crass. He's sitting alongside his creative partner, the artist Gee Vaucher, in a snug timber-boarded space resembling a cabin, and ■ ber-boarded space resembling a cabin, and speaking of the conception of the “open house” where they have lived for nearly 60 years. They have shared it not only with each other, but with a revolving cast of visitors, some friends and artistic collaborators, many of them strangers who simply asked to stay. “Whatever people → bring here," Rimbaud says, "I want to accept. I don't want to tell people what to do, how to do it, or why they should do it."

This is Dial House, a rambling farmhouse near Epping in Essex. It puts into practice their anarcho-pacifist ideals. They have two conditions: “We’ve never been keen about recreational drugs here and it’s always been a vegetarian household.” Vaucher says that life in the house is “about responsibility, without making rules. If you see something that needs doing, you do it, like weeding, or mending a chair, or washing up a cup. You don’t say, ‘Well, I didn’t use that.’”

The house is a work of improvisation and chance, much altered and extended since it was first built in the 17th century. It has itself “seen what happens”. It has wonky old timbers that carry the memory of their former lives as oak trees in nearby woods. It has sloping floors, low ceilings, deep shadows and outbreaks of light. Its redbrick exterior looks sturdy and normal, but internally one room joins another with non-linear logic, like episodes in a story with an unknown plot.

Vaucher and Rimbaud have added their own layers. Their creations, and works by their artist friends, hang from the walls. There's a bathroom panelled with boards of wooden wine and tea crates, emblazoned with the handsome typography of their importers. There's a wall patch-worked with fragments of patterned cloth. There are gifts from grateful guests, mementoes, objects whose origin has been forgotten. Doors and fireplaces are painted with patterns and flowers.

It is a place of production, a centrifugal organism that spins its creative energy off into a one-acre garden. Vaucher has a studio in the house, bright and relatively high, populated by inspirations and work in progress. There's another room where she's organising her archive for the forthcoming Gee Vaucher Foundation, whose aim is to preserve her work and support like-minded artists.

Outside there are sheds, studios and an old caravan, places where visiting artists can stay and make, if they're happy to live with a composting toilet. Rimbaud sleeps and works in one of the larger outhouses – a collage of salvaged building components, including a graceful old shopfront rescued from demolition and doors inset with stained glass. It's decorated with more art and artefacts, including an item of traditional Maasai clothing, and is scented with incense. In the garden there are fruit trees and vegetable patches and tomatoes growing in a greenhouse, such that art and produce grow side by side. Bells and wind chimes jingle.

Penny Rimbaud at work in his studio. Above left: a sunburst design in stained glass in the bathroom

Dial House has been altered and extended since it was first built in the 17th century and in recent decades visitors and friends have donated their own artworks

Vaucher and Rimbaud, now in their 80s, met at art school in Essex in 1961, and later came across Dial House while touring the county by motorbike. Rimbaud, then an art teacher, lived there for a while with two colleagues (Vaucher, wanting to be independent, lived down the road at that time) but he tired of life where each housemate had their own cupboard and organised their housework by rota.

“I wanted to share stuff,” says Rimbaud. “I wanted to get rid of everything. So I made it known that one weekend anyone could come and take whatever they wanted. I only kept a book, a table, a bed and the cooker.” From here the concept of Dial House grew. First there was a young man Rimbaud met while potato picking, who needed a place to live, then his girlfriend, then “people just started turning up from nowhere”.

It became a place that would, in Rimbaud's words, “facilitate stuff, because that’s the best you can do for people, isn’t it? To accommodate and facilitate. Well, also dream, if you like, a project, an idea.” The Stonehenge Free Festival, a major countercultural event that was performed every summer solstice from 1974 to 1984, was, he says, “plotted from here”, with its founder, Wally Hope. Crass started when “a sweet, innocent kid of 16 came here from Dagenham and said ‘I want to form a band.’” The young man, Steve Ignorant, became its lead singer.

There would be times when Vaucher and Rimbaud wouldn't know what was happening in the house. A woman secretly slept in their darkroom: "We kept seeing food disappear, but didn't know why," recalls Vaucher. But they have had remarkably little trouble from awkward guests – she called the police once, much against her principles, only to find that the chief inspector was a Crass fan. Up to 15 people might stay at one time, or more when adults and children were camping in the garden for the arts → club that they used to run. Once here, adults weren't allowed to interfere, unless asked, with what their children were doing. They were, he says, self-governing. "It's been a human experiment," says Rimbaud, and an enduring one. It seems to be a near-miraculous triumph of trust.

‘It’s been an enduring human experiment,’ says Rimbaud, one that’s a near-miraculous triumph of trust

A studio in the garden of Dial House

This month, Dial House will feature in Earthly Paradise, an exhibition at the William Morris Gallery in Walthamstow on “radical living in the UK” in the tradition of the Victorian socialist and designer after whom the gallery is named. Vaucher and Rimbaud say they “don’t know an awful lot” about Morris and weren’t sure whether to take part. They were also uncertain about appearing in The Observer, about “any move into essentially bourgeois territory”. But, in the end, their philosophy is to engage, “to break down the walls. It’s good to be able to get something over to other people”. Because, ultimately, the object is “just to try and make a kinder world, isn’t it really?” ●

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The Happiness Index Nicky Haslam

Lace curtain by Jane Wright at Alcova, during Milan design week 2026

The veteran interior designer and author, now in his 80s, launches the eighth edition of his viral ‘Things I Find Common’ tea towel on 1 November. Here he shares the things that do (and don’t) make him feel at home...

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Joy Fillers

A tray of drinks in the hallway. It's welcoming - and adds a bit of glitter.

Decoration should make you look prettier. My bedroom is hung with unlined mauve linen curtains. They make the skin glow.

Gilded cutlery. It's far warmer and more welcoming than English silver.

I always have a chair in the bathroom. Anything upholstered, especially in towelling. It's my drying chair.

Souvenir ashtrays. Anything that jogs the memory is great fun.

Shadows in a room. If you create pools of light the eye travels from one to the next – but it's the shadows that bring me joy.

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Joy Killers

Candles in the daytime are just wrong.

Cushion overkill. People use far too many. Use sparingly and keep understuffed, so they can flap around a bit.

Maroon is the ugliest colour. The drab red.

Dining rooms. You never use them enough and the dark wood tables look like boardroom furniture.

Framed posters and famous images on a wall demand too much attention.

Being too matchy-matchy. The eye never takes in two things at once.

Overhead lighting is ghastly; unbearable.

Jingyi Li's Hidden

Drawer-Dinner Set

made of bobbin lace

Antique English wingbacked chair reworked in 18th-century Vatican lace from Clarke and Reilly

Ceramic plate piped with clay from Pollyanna Johnson

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[Currently Observing] The fresh extravagance of lace

Lace is being woven anew in the home. The designer Jane Wright upends traditional techniques by blending hand needlework with machine-made lace. Woven with silhouettes of futuristic metropolises, her nets are anything but nostalgic. “Lace is still so loaded,” Wright says, of its complex origins in the 1600s. “It tells stories about womanhood, and the shared value given to this highly skilled craft.” For the table, ceramicist Pollyanna Johnson pipes layers of liquid clay on to black glaze, mimicking the material's gossamer-like delicacy emblazoned with pithy modern messages that defy their domesticity. And the textile artist Jingyi Li, a resident at Sarabande Foundation, cleverly weaves her Asian heritage and femininity into mending the cane on a classic bistro chair with spidery lace inserts. Lace is a symbol of craft with newfound edge. Try your hand at the bi-weekly London Lace Club (instagram.com/londonlaceclub).

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At Large With... Tom Broughton in St Leonards- on-Sea

Tom Broughton at home in his Marine Court apartment

"I grew up in Leicester, the furthest place in Britain from the sea, which is probably why I love the coast so much," says Tom Broughton, founder of Cubitts opticians. "I still associate it with holidays, adventures, candy floss, donkeys and freedom." In 2024, he acquired an apartment in Marine Court, a modernist concrete tower in St Leonards-on-Sea, after spying its beacon-like form from the beach while day-tripping. He and his partner now divide their time between here and London – a spontaneous move that's entirely about escape. "It immediately felt like home," Broughton says.

Lesser known than its coastal counterparts Deal and Margate, St Leonards has a strong creative community. “It must have the highest number of ceramics studios per capita in the country,” says Broughton, who was drawn to the romance of the town’s 19th-century architecture. He feels a similar affection for Bottle Alley, a concrete walkway embedded with rainbow shards of glass that runs along the front to Hastings. “It plays into that charming 1930s view of what the British seaside can be.” Here, Broughton shares his go-to hang-outs in his adopted seaside home.

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① Black Gull Books

34 London Road

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(@blackgullbooks.stleonards)

“Right on the main drag, the owners of this secondhand bookshop collect a lot of arthouse stuff, and frequently receive personal collections. It means they have a really unusual art, architecture and design selection that’s above and beyond the regular. The books are interspersed with furniture and art, by local artists. I often pick up bits here for the flat or one of the stores.”

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[Sunless] 68 Norman Road (sunlessantiques.com)

"A lovely space with views over the sea run by a young couple with a great eye. Their curation of 1920s Art Deco and 1940s modernist antiques and decorative objects, often from France or Belgium, is excellent. I recently kitted out our new Manchester store with a bookcase, drum table and artwork from Sunless. They also have a great selection of early 20th-century French workwear."

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[Collected Fictions] Unit 1, 6-8 London Road (@collected.fictions)

“This bar is one of the reasons I fell in love with St Leonards. It’s two tiny rooms full of wine bottles (and music) where you can happily while away the hours. They have a particularly good selection of natural wines and unusual beers and ale on tap. It has odd hours, it closes by 9pm, which gives a sense of the vibe.”

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[Goat Ledge] The Promenade, Lower, Warrior Square (goatledge.com)

"This photogenic series of colourful sheds is a local institution. They have live (or loud) music and are open all year round. The food is nostalgic – fish-finger baps and pencil-thin fries. The atmosphere – a bit silly and whimsical – is summed up by the giant model of a goat on the roof."

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[⑤ St Leonards Gardens] Maze Hill (historicengland.org.uk)

"This is the lovely, hidden heart of St Leonards. The town's creator, James Burton, started with the Victoria Hotel and built the garden behind it with a turtle pond at its centre. It's surrounded by the nicest Victorian architecture with views down to the sea – it transports you into another era. Most people miss it."

There’s the 9-month dry-cured signature sweet flavour. There’s being traditionally seasoned in the Parma Hills. There’s looking cultured without even trying.

There are many reasons to Deluxe. One is the price.

£9.99/kg

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Ripe for the picking

KITCHEN DIARY

NIGEL SLATER

baked an earthenware dish of tomatoes this week, the fruits layered in thick slices, with whole basil leaves and a milky dome of burrata peeping through a crust of crisp, golden breadcrumbs. I served them in shallow bowls, with a baguette ripped apart to mop the tomato juices pooling around the cheese. I chose a mixture of fruits of different sizes and ripeness. Gnarled Marmande, orange-fleshed ones and sweet-sharp cherry tomatoes tumbled together. The important point was that they were first lightly fried in a shallow pan before →

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'The change of season has brought with it an appetite for pasta suppers but also for mushrooms. I combine them both'

being layered in the baking dish. This intensified their flavour, sweetened those not fully ripened and produced a lot of juice for soaking up. The pre-cooking is not essential, but it gives a deeper, richer flavour. Tomatoes thrive on heat, which explains the abundance of good fruits this summer.

This is either a principal dish or to serve on the side, as you wish. Cooked orzo pasta or plump balls of mograbia would be just the ticket for sponging up the tomato juice, as would steamed brown rice or fine couscous. We scoffed it with good bread alone, but this is also something that would sit comfortably with grilled lamb steaks or baked field mushrooms.

The change of season has brought with it an appetite for pasta suppers, but also for mushrooms. I combined them in a single dish this week, an assortment of mushrooms, including a few chanterelles and oyster among the more workaday chestnut and button varieties. A sound way of cooking them is to deal with the firmer, thicker varieties first, they will take longer to cook, then introduce the more fragile ones later, such as the spindly enoki, apricot hued chanterelles and tiny “fairy-hat” shimeji. Such delicate fungi need only a brief introduction to the frying pan.

You could run with the mushroom recipe, scattering it with grated parmesan and baking it to give a bubbling crust, or introduce some lightly boiled, long-stemmed broccoli or steamed spinach. (I ate it with the spinach on the side, but it could just as easily be tucked among the mushrooms.) A budget version might omit the fancier fungi. The cream is also the place to use up any saved parmesan crusts, letting them infuse with the cream for a while before pouring it over the pasta.

On a sweet note, there are some plump, late-season raspberries around. I like them dropped into a glass of sweet wine, preferably one of the muscat variety with a rose-gold hue. There are few prettier ways to end a meal. An alcohol-free alternative might include the fruit layered with whipped cream and crumbled ginger biscuits (not hard gingernuts) and left to soften in the fridge. Also, I am normally reluctant to adulterate a crème brûlée, but a few perfectly ripe raspberries dropped into the custard to find, like hidden treasure, is surely no bad thing.

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Mushrooms with orecchiette

Serves 4. Ready in 1 hour

onion I, medium

butter 20g, plus a little extra

olive oil 3 tbsp

garlic 2 plump cloves

parmesan 100g, plus extra to serve

orecchiette 200g

assorted mushrooms 400g

dill fronds 10g

double cream 250ml

Peel the onion, cut it in half from root to tip, slice it finely, then put into a saucepan with the oil and butter and let it cook over a moderate heat up until light gold in colour and almost translucent, at least 15-20 minutes.

Peel and thinly slice the garlic, then stir into the onion and continue cooking for a few minutes until the garlic has taken on a little colour.

Finely grate the parmesan. Sort through the mushrooms, trimming any tough stalks, brushing off any growing medium and thickly slicing any button or chestnut varieties.

Put a deep pan of water on to boil and salt it generously. When it comes to the boil, scatter in the orecchiette and let them cook for a good 9 minutes or until tender to the bite.

While the pasta cooks, add the mushroom to the onion and garlic – thickest ones first, fragile, smaller varieties last. Let them cook, adding a little more butter if necessary, stirring now and again, until they are soft and starting to turn gold at the edges. Season nicely with salt and black pepper. Finely chop the dill.

Drain the orecchiette, then stir into the mushroom mixture. Pour the cream into the empty saucepan and add the parmesan and the dill, seasoning it with salt and pepper. Bring the cream almost to the boil.

Put the mushroom and onion mixture into a warmed serving dish, pour over the hot cheese and dill sauce and mix well. If you wish, scatter a little extra parmesan over the surface and bake for 15 minutes at 200C/gas mark 6 to brown the surface.

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Baked tomatoes, burrata and basil

Shallow dishes such as pasta bowls will be needed here for the tomatoes and their juices.

Serves 2 as main dish, 4 as a side.

assorted tomatoes 800g

olive oil 2-3 tbsp, plus a little extra

large basil leaves 10

burrata 250g

garlic cloves 3

dried breadcrumbs (such as panko) 75g

Heat the oven to 200C/gas mark 6. Thickly slice the tomatoes. Warm 2 tbsp of the olive oil in a shallow pan. When the oil is hot,

fill the pan with a single layer of tomatoes and let them cook for a few minutes, until they have just started to turn gold on the underside.

Using a palette knife or flat metal slice, carefully turn the tomatoes over and cook the other side for a couple of minutes. Remove and place a single layer in the bottom of an oven dish about 25cm in diameter.

Continue with the other tomatoes. While they are cooking, season the tomato slices in the baking dish with salt, pepper and the basil leaves, tucking them in among the fruit. Place the burrata in the middle of the tomatoes, then slit the top and squeeze

to release the soft cheese within. Peel and crush the garlic.

As the tomatoes become ready, place the remaining slices on top of the others. When the pan is empty, pour in a little more oil, then add the crushed garlic, let it sizzle for one minute, then stir in the breadcrumbs and let them fry until crisp and golden. Stir frequently, season with salt and pepper, then scatter over the surface of the tomatoes and cheese.

Dampen the crumbs with a little olive oil. (It will mingle deliciously with the tomato juices as they bake.) Place the dish in the oven and bake for about 25 minutes until bubbling. ●

CHEF AT LARGE

TOMOS PARRY

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Flavours built on contrasts

I think the best cooking often comes down to understanding things like what key ingredients need next to them. Duck is a good example. A well-cooked duck breast, with crisp skin and a good layer of fat underneath, is beautiful and doesn't need much adding to it. What it does need is contrast, and chicory has bitterness and crunch, pears bring sweetness and acidity and hazelnuts give another kind of richness without making the dish too heavy. It's quite a traditional combination in some ways, and we tend to have this type of dish at all my restaurants at this time of year.

Aubergines are at their best when you cook them much further than you think you should – the skin black and the flesh inside almost collapsing. Over charcoal is ideal because you get that particular smell of smoke in the flesh, but a very hot grill also works well. Don’t be frightened of burning the outside.

Against that hot, smoky aubergine, I like something cool. Thick yoghurt seasoned with lemon and garlic has enough sharpness to brighten everything up, while tahini gives it some complexity. The onions are cooked slowly in olive oil with aromatics until they are soft and sweet. You need the oil as much as the onions themselves as it carries all those flavours.

These are generous dishes, made for putting in the middle of the table, and they're both quite versatile: the aubergine is good as a side dish with roasted lamb, and feel free to mix up the duck with red radicchio, plums or beetroots – it will work in a similar way.

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Duck salad with pear and chicory

The important part of this recipe is not to throw away the duck fat. Start the duck breasts in a cold pan and let the fat render slowly.

Serves 4. Ready in 1 hour

duck breasts 2, about 300g each

hazelnuts 40g

chicory heads 3

pears 2, firm but ripe

thyme sprigs 4

shallot 1, small, finely chopped

cider vinegar 2 tbsp

dijon mustard 1 tsp

extra-virgin olive oil 1 tbsp

Take the duck breasts out of the fridge 30 minutes before cooking. Pat dry and season generously with fine salt.

Put the duck breasts skin-side down into a cold, heavy-based frying pan. Set over a medium-low heat and cook slowly for 10-12 minutes, pouring the fat into a bowl as it builds up. The skin should become deeply golden and crisp. Turn the breasts and cook for 3-5 minutes, depending on their thickness and how pink you like the meat. Transfer to a plate and leave to rest somewhere warm for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, toast the hazelnuts in a dry pan until golden. Leave to cool slightly, then roughly crush. Cut each chicory lengthways into quarters, keeping the root intact so the leaves hold together. Quarter and core the pears, then cut each quarter in half.

Return 1 tbsp of the reserved duck fat to the frying pan over a high heat. Add the chicory, cut-side down, and cook for 2-3 minutes until coloured and beginning to char. Turn briefly, season and transfer to a warm plate. Add the pears to the same pan with the thyme and another spoonful of duck fat if necessary. Cook for 2-3 minutes, turning once, until golden at the edges, but still firm in the middle.

For the dressing, put the shallot, vinegar, mustard and a pinch of salt in a bowl. Leave for 5 minutes, then whisk in 2 tbsp of warm duck fat and the olive oil. Slice the duck breasts fairly thickly. Pour any juices from the resting plate into the dressing. Arrange the chicory and pears on a large platter and lay the sliced duck over them. Spoon over the dressing and finish with the toasted hazelnuts and plenty of black pepper.

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Aubergine with onion and yoghurt

What makes this dish is the contrast of smoke, acidity and sweetness.

Serves 4 as a side. Ready in 45 minutes

aubergines 3, medium-sized

olive oil I tbsp

lemon I

flat-leaf parsley and mint a small

handful, roughly chopped

lemon wedges to serve

For the onion oil: onions 2, medium olive oil 150ml garlic clove I thyme 3 sprigs bay leaf I cumin seeds $\frac{1}{2}$ tsp

For the yoghurt:

thick Greek yoghurt 250g

tahini I tbsp

garlic I small clove, finely grated

zest of ½ lemon finely grated

lemon juice I tbsp

First, make the onion oil. Peel and very thinly slice the onions. Put them in a small saucepan with the oil, garlic, thyme, bay and a good pinch of salt. Cook over a very low heat for 25-30 minutes, stirring occasionally. The onions should become soft, sweet and golden without turning crisp.

Add the cumin seeds for the final 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and leave the onions to sit in their oil.

Mix the yoghurt with the tahini, garlic, lemon zest and juice. Season with salt and refrigerate until needed.

Heat your grill as hot as it will go. Rub the aubergines lightly with olive oil, place on a tray and grill for 20-25 minutes, turning regularly until blackened all over and very soft. If using a barbecue, get the coals very hot. Cook the aubergines whole directly over the heat, turning regularly, for 15-20 minutes. Leave the aubergines to rest for 5 minutes, then split them lengthways. Season the exposed flesh immediately with salt and a squeeze of lemon.

Spoon the cold yoghurt over a large serving plate. Sit the hot aubergines on top, opening them slightly so plenty of the smoky flesh is exposed. Spoon over the onions and their cumin-scented oil. Finish with another squeeze of lemon and the parsley and mint. Serve immediately. ●

Some grand hotels look inwards and some outwards. Claridge's, where Dante rests, is the second kind. If you can't afford to stay in an icy cloud of a suite here, and most can't, it offers outreach for the desolate: a bakery round the back in Brook's Mews, where I like to buy iced fingers...

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RESTAURANTS TANYA GOLD

Dante Claridge's Hotel, Brook Street, London W1 (020 7629 8860, maybourne.com/claridges). Starters £19-£29, mains £24-£70, desserts £9-16, wine from £14/£50 glass/bottle

They are very good iced fingers, they cost £4 each, and since you can pay £10 for a bad sandwich these days, the price seems fair. It includes drama, and there's not a lot of that at Pret.

Claridge's is dramatic by birth: it was built for Richard D'Oyly Carte, Gilbert and Sullivan's producer. In 2021, it vastly increased in size, which for some reason reminded me of the magic porridge pot, which likewise self-replicated. That is not a criticism, not here.

Claridge's has a problem, though, which is interesting for such a skilled hotel. It doesn't know what to do with its restaurant. Not the Foyer & Reading Room, which is for tourists medicating jet lag with tea and scones; nor the ArtSpace Café, which is trench warfare between families and junior fund managers with laptops. I mean the real dining room, with its entrance on Davies Street and small, defensive terrace. I overstate. But that is a lot of hedge, even for Mayfair.

I have reviewed three restaurants in this room: first Fera, with its rustic crockery and ornamental pebbles. It did not fit in an Art Deco palace, and it was never going to: it seemed to hate its parent. I missed Daniel Humm's Davies and Brook, which came next, axed when Humm tried to go plant-based, because Americans visit London to eat flesh not artichokes. Then there was Claridge's Restaurant and its brasserie – that is, happy baby – food. Now we have Dante, a branch of an Italian restaurant in New York City, given first a residency and now, apparently, a permanent slot.

First, the name is wrong: Dante went to hell, and this isn't that. I would say the room is too much for the eyes to process, but then I went to Lilibet's, an exploitative Elizabeth II-themed restaurant, which is more. Dante has pale green walls; darker green banquettes; photographs of hot, possibly dead Italians; Art Deco starbursts in red and yellow glass on the ceiling; insane floristry, including the palest pinkest rose on every table; a white piano. But it is very close to both Davies and Brook and Claridge's Restaurant. If the paint colour, the pictures and the floral centrepiece are different, almost everything else is the same. No great restaurant impersonates something else. It needs an identity of its own and it must love, not contradict, its setting.

This is Italian-American food, which treats America as another province of Italy, and the smashburger as cherished regional dish. Is

Dante, which is nearly empty on a Sunday afternoon, designed to catch whichever rich Italian-American tourists are in London this day to enjoy Art Deco interiors – which is none? We order fazzoletti and pappardelle al ragù; chicken alla diavola (“devil’s chicken”) for the name alone – of course the devil loves a chicken, who doesn’t? – and the smashburger.

The pasta – fazzoletti means “handkerchief”, pappardelle is a wider fettuccine – is slightly overcooked. Genovese pesto clings to the fazzoletti with shredded mozzarella and toasted breadcrumbs: the result is pallid. The pappardelle is better, but ragù is hard to spoil: it has vitality, being flesh. A smashburger is a thin burger, fast cooked to develop a crust. This isn’t a smashburger, being too thick, and I review it as a common burger. It’s good and bloody and I like it, but it didn’t need the home-baked brioche: a shop-bought one would do. I have learned, mostly through studying lasagne, that the near-Michelin version of a simple dish is not usually the best version. There is a ceiling here and it can be reached by the common bun alone.

Devil's chicken, fired with spice, is sticky and not particularly devilish: it does not have enough heat to evoke hell, or anything. It comes with mash and a pool of butter: potato as analgesic, which is what it should be. This room is good at analgesics. I think it is one. The tiramisu is another analgesic, and it is also well done. But the sticky-toffee donut is too much. I should have known when it read its title – three words for one misspelled doughnut? – and saw when it came with vanilla ice-cream. The toffee sauce is too thick, and it buries it; the ice-cream takes the rest. It's a sugar coffin and I'm lying in it.

I struggle to see the point of Dante, at least in Claridge's: it is another uneasy pairing. It needs to solve a riddle that goes beyond itself: what do rich people want to eat, and in Mayfair, a quarter of glut? I suspect the answer is more glut, because if not here, then where? Claridge's needs the defining plutocrat restaurant, because nothing else will meet the interior, and the interior will not change. You should walk in and faint.

It will survive another restaurant that doesn't quite work. Perhaps this dining room will ape the Magic Faraway Tree, and have first one, then another restaurant here: the fourth plinth for the insatiable yet unpleasant. Until then, as we all do, it seeks. ●

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TASTES OF THE SEASON

ROBERT SAMUEL HANSON

Get shucking

We're back with an "r" in the month, which means native oysters are back on the menu (native oysters spawn in the summer, which affects the texture and taste). Look out for various oyster festivals around the country (Falmouth kicks things off from 8-10 October).

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Get foraging

As Nigel Slater mentions (p37), now is a great time for mushrooms. You can save a fortune on expensive mushrooms by foraging them but only if you know what you're doing, for goodness sake. A mushroom knife helps you make a clean cut, then you can brush away any dirt with the other end (and, basically, any reason to own a new Opinel is a good reason; £26, berryuseful.co.uk).

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Get picking

Some good news from a scorching

Some good news from a scoring summer: all that sun means it has been a great year for English grapes. If you're lucky enough to have a garden vine, you'll be deep in picking and preserving (pickled grapes F'TW). If you don't, there are some lovely imports around - we're

big fans of the wildly perfumed Fragola grape, which tastes less like

the strawberry it's named for and more like fake grape flavour, which is quite weird.

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WINE DAVID WILLIAMS

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Fine fizz 'n' fast food

Hungry on our first day on holiday in Berlin recently, my family did what almost all green-horn visitors to the city do: we made a beeline for the nearest currywurst kiosk and our first taste of that curious delicacy, with its sauce more sweet than spicy, and its mandatory

accompaniment of chips and a bottle of sourly-tangy, nourishing Berliner weisse beer. Since we were right in the heart of Berlin's tourist zone, by the Brandenburg Gate, we were prepared to be fleeced like a rube buying something (anything at all) in Leicester Square. But the prices (€8.50 for a bratwurst in a bun and a 50cl bottle of beer) were pretty reasonable, right down to the “€259 Menu 5 option: 4 x currywurst with a 75cl bottle of Dom Pérignon”.

Reasonable? Well, I know (I'm not entirely naïve) that the DP was largely there for the WTF factor, the cheeky incongruity of pairing this most sophisticated of champagnes with a low-brow fast food that is meant for wolfing down from a paper plate perched on a stool. But when you consider a bottle of DP routinely goes for £200 or more in wine shops (and supermarkets) back here in the UK, the deal didn't seem so bad.

Neither, frankly, did it seem all that strange or shocking: the idea of pairing fine wine and self-consciously humble food was already there in the notorious Krug and shepherd's pie Christmas parties hosted by per-jurer and occasional novelist Jeffrey Archer in the 1980s and 1990s. And the specific high-low pairing of fine →

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DRINKS HANNAH CROSBIE

champagne and hot dogs has a pretty long pedigree of its own, too, having been popularised with some panache in London in the 2010s by Bubbledogs, a champagne-and-hot-dog bar connected to Michelin-starred restaurant the Kitchen Table on Charlotte Street.

Thanks to champagne's naturally fat-cutting acidity and mouth-freshening bubbles, it's a match that works surprisingly well, although if I were looking for a truly satisfying mix of fast food and sparkling wine, I wouldn't start with a hot dog, and the wine in the glass wouldn't have to be champagne.

There's something about the mix of umami flavours and the endlessly satisfying contrast of crunch and succulence in both classic British fish and chips and deep-fried chicken-shop chicken that is irresistible with sparkling wine either from Champagne or made using the same method. The enlivening, cleansing acidity and bubbles, again, have a lot to do with that. But it's also that rich bakery shop yeasty savouriness, a product of the second, fizz-giving fermentation and the time spent in close contact with the dead yeast cells (or lees) in the bottle, that just chimes in perfect like-with-like style with the batter or crumb on the fish and chicken.

I find the extra notch of mouthwatering citrus in English sparkling wine goes especially well with fish and chips; the swirl of fresh lemon, Cox's apple and buttery shortcrust pastry in Artelium English Sparkling Wine 2019 (£38, Marks & Spencer), for example, is ideal for a classic cod or haddock, while both Specially Selected Crémant de Loire NV (£8.99, Aldi), which has a subtle nutty edge to its apple zing, and the lime-and-toast of Codorníu Seleccion Familia Reserva Organic Cava NV (£9.50, down from £13.99 until 10 October, Waitrose), have a way of making any mildly spicy, southern fried chicken – or, for that matter, currywurst – suddenly feel really rather posh.

Wine of the Week

Artelium English

Sparkling Wine 2019

(£38, Marks & Spencer)

PROP STYLING BY ALEXANDER BREEZE; DRINK STYLING BY TARA GARNELL

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Zero tolerance

'm not a big believer in much. Star signs are fun insofar as they're personality quizzes. Ghosts are cool, but I don't sage every flat I move into. And I'm pretty comfortably agnostic, so that I'm covered for either eventuality if the existence of a higher being is proved in my lifetime. (I hate being wrong.)

And yet, being brought down by illness for the past two months feels like a smiting from a higher power. After spending perhaps the last five years of my life having at least one drink every evening, the powers that be decided it would best for my liver/brain/energy levels if I chilled the hell out for a bit. I knew it was unhealthy and it was drilled home for me when I finally calculated my units consumed per week and the GP put a marker on me for unhealthy consumption. Yikes.

So, a bit of time off and recalibration was needed, not least so I'm able to continue as a drinks writer for a long while yet. But what if your job necessitates its consumption? What if the thing that anchors your livelihood and career is also something that could kill you? Famously, this was a question pondered by restaurant critic Pete Wells, when he resigned from his role at the New York Times citing health risks.

Obviously, I was still able to go out and look at cocktail menus, enjoy with my eyes what my friends were drinking, and no imbibing for me. But there were a few options that got me through a week, and ended up turning it into a month of no drinking. Who'd'a thunk it!

The world of non-alc is vast and with big marketing budgets, but the drinks are, often, watery and flavourless. The 0% drinks that try to pretend to be spirits really fall short. They're missing the heat of the alcohol so end up tasting flat and synthetic – alcohol is needed to bolster the intense aromas, otherwise it can feel as if you're drinking the liquid from a scent diffuser. They also tend to be so sweet.

If you live in a UK city, you'll have seen the bright egg-yolk yellow of a Botivo bottle winking at you from all the bars. It's is one of those brands with a big marketing budget (I think they had Jeff Goldblum in one of their recent campaigns?), but with a product that backs up its claims. Botivo, while it is widely used in place of a spirit in cocktails, calls itself a “botanical aperitivo”, and it's got the bitterness to balance out the sweetness. I love it simply with soda.

In a similar category, I've also liked Mother Root, a switchel (gingervinegar base) which tastes just as good topped up in a highball glass as it does in shot-form in the morning. It burns, so it has to be good for me.

Non-alcoholic beers have been a godsend. Though the bad are watery and uninspiring, the best taste... the same as a regular beer. My favourites include Erdinger and Estrella. When you can barely taste the difference, you barely feel as if you are missing out. ●

THE QUIZ

“They were looking for someone who could speak Penguinese. I needed the money,” was how voiceover artist David Sant described his work on which animated TV series? Penguins named Pinga and Pingi feature alongside its titular star.

In drawing, what type of hatching involves layering a second set of lines over the first set?

Adam Jonas Horowitz's Stonefridge was installed in Santa Fe, a “megalithic, post-apocalyptic” replica of which monument? Initially built with 200 fridges, it was intended as an “anti-monument” to consumerism and industrial waste.

Which expensive spice comes from the dried stigmas of an autumn-flowering variety of the crocus flower?

Which 1898 sci-fi novel is about an alien invasion that starts in Woking?

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0, really?

What will it be: a piece of cake, or humble pie? Our weekly quiz tests your knowledge of culture, style, history, science - and much more. By Lydia Heaton, a question setter for ITV's The Chase

Which football club adopted its current name approximately 3,236 Wednesdays after their first appearance as the Wednesday Football Club?

The whistleblower Sarah Wynn-Williams worked at which company, now rebranded as Meta? At her appearance at this year's Hay Festival, she had to sit silent and motionless on stage, in order not to breach a legal order obtained by her former employer which bars her from promoting her memoir, Careless People.

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⑧

In which four cities do the “Big Four” fashion weeks take place?

Which pop star runs the Service95 book club, and is lead curator of the London Literature Festival this year? Her hits include Levitating, Illusion and One Kiss.

After seeing the uniforms Issey Miyake created for staff at Sony, Steve Jobs was inspired to have his own personal uniform. What colour was the turtleneck that the designer created for the Apple founder as a signature look?

In Jewish tradition, which fruit is said to have 613 seeds?

In the title song from his album Ready to Die, what does the Notorious BIG describe as the “material for the imperial”? This substance is famed for being nonstick and extremely slippery.

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13

The 2026 European Road Cycling Championships are taking place in which country? Cycling stars from this country include Primož Roglič and Tadej Pogačar.

In 1991, who became the youngest ever fashion director of an international magazine when he took on the role at i-D magazine, aged 18? He later served as editor-in-chief of British Vogue.

The margay and the ocelot are wild types of what animal?

The Great Cheese Riot of 1766 happened during which city's annual Goose Fair? Rioters rolled cheese wheels through the streets and the city's mayor was knocked down by one while attempting to restore order.

At the third edition of the London Film Festival, director François Truffaut turned up to the screening of which of his films without a ticket and unable to speak English? His debut feature, the film is about a misunderstood 12-year-old boy and is now considered a masterpiece.

According to the title of a song by Gil Scott-Heron, what will not be televised? ●

Answers on page 3

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NAKED PAPER

MISSION ON EARTH POLAR LIGHT

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The Observer Sport

Six-page special report on Man City pages 3-8

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Rijeka wreckers

England score seven to crush Croatia

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This week

Reporting by Andrew Butler

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The week in brief

Verstappen makes pole

after vast improvement

Max Verstappen's pole position in this morning's Bahrain Grand Prix hints at a new dawn for Red Bull, writes Matt Majendie.

The 29-year-old qualified on pole for the first time this season – a first for a non-Mercedes-powered car in 2026. The four-time world champion's title bid has long since evaporated but his qualifying dominance cemented his place as currently the best on-track challenger to Kimi Antonelli.

Verstappen took the top spot by three tenths of a second from his long-term rival Lewis Hamilton for the grand prix, rehomed in Malaysia because of the ongoing conflict in the Middle East.

£9.3m

Record figure for sale of Michael Jordan's Chicago Bulls 1998 jersey

For Red Bull to find itself in contention for race wins in a first season as an in-house engine supplier is not lost on Verstappen, who was way off the pace earlier in the year.

Since first taking the wheel in Sepang, Verstappen was a class apart despite Mercedes arriving with a long-awaited and much-heralded upgrade package it estimated would gain it three tenths of a second per lap – instead, they found themselves losing time. Team principal Toto Wolff bemoaned having “no performance” but hit back at suggestions they could now fall out of contention.

Meanwhile, Lewis Hamilton was full of praise for Ferrari after a week in which the team had to publicise its full backing for team principal Fred Vasseur after Christian Horner declared an interest in his job.

Jazz Tevaga celebrates with Caius Faatili and Caleb Hamlin-Uele after scoring his side's third. try. Michael Steele/Getty

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Wakefield Trinity end 58-year wait for title with brilliant display over Wolves

Wakefield Trinity became just the sixth side to lift the Super League trophy after defeating Warrington Wolves 23-10 in the Grand Final at Old Trafford.

Trinity joined Wigan, Leeds, St Helens, Bradford and Hull KR as they produced a pulsating display in front of a sold-out crowd in Manchester.

Trinity came into the final having secured a stunning semi-final win over regular season table-toppers Wigan, who themselves were chasing a treble before last Saturday's defeat.

Warrington on the other hand arrived at Old Trafford looking to exorcise the ghosts of Grand Finals past, having made the showpiece event on four occasions but falling short each time.

Prior to the match, legendary

League figure Sir Kevin Sinfield, whose son Jack started the final at scrum-half for Wakefield, carried the trophy onto the pitch after completing his 7 in 7: The Grand Finale challenge. Starting in Hull, Sinfield ran an ultra marathon each day for seven days – raising over a million pounds in the process, and tipping the total figure Sinfield has raised over the course of his seven ultra-running challenges to over £11 million.

Both sides named unchanged teams from their semi-final exploits, and Wakefield drew first blood in the 11th minute after Cam Scott went over thanks to a superb pass from Lachlan Walmsley. Trinity extended their advantage in the 25th minute as Isaiah Vagana after Tom Johnstone outjumped Albert Hopoate to set up the try, and ten minutes later scored their third as Jazz Tevaga scored from close range. Sinfield scored a drop-goal before half-time to send Trinity in 19-0 ahead.

Warrington hit back early in the second half as Ewan Irwin shifted the ball on to Arron Lindop to score, but Wakefield restored their advantage as Johnstone went from provider to finisher to make the score 23-6.

Wolves scored an unconverted try through Arron Lindop with ten minutes to go, but it wasn't enough as Trinity lifted the trophy in front of a rapturous crowd. The victory is even more remarkable given Trinity had been relegated from the Super League in September 2023, before a resurgence in recent seasons under new owner Matt Ellis saw the side end their 58-year wait for a title.

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Marathon dates decided by rock, paper, scissors

Next year's London Marathon elite races have been decided using the inventive method of a game of rock, paper, scissors. Next year's event is a special one-off two-day affair in which 100,000 participants will take to the streets across the weekend of 24-25 April. But the decision of when the men's and women's elite and wheelchair event will take place was determined by the playground game between women's wheelchair world record holder Catherine Debrunner and men's world record holder Sabastian Sawe – both of whom won last year's race.

Debrunner beat Sawe 2-0 in the best-of-three face-off, and as a result the elite men and men's wheelchair races are set for the Saturday, with the women's races the following day.

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IN THE NEW REVIEW

"Do people really think I could have won all those trophies just by shouting at people?", asks Sir Alex Ferguson. In an interview with Paul Hayward, the legendary manager shares the secrets of his gift for inspiring young players and his fears for the future.

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On the cover

Jude Bellingham

embraces

Harry Kane in

England's 7-0

demolition of

Croatia

Marko Perkov/ AFP via Getty

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[Said & done by Andrew Butler] Flipping Hull

Extraordinary happenings near Hull City's training ground in Cottingham. French summer signing Lucas Gourna-Douath reportedly became the second Tigers player to flip his car outside the facility, three weeks after winger Sorba Thomas rolled his car on the same narrow road. Both players were uninjured.

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Walthamstow wait is over

A fantastic achievement from Walthamstow FC's Nathan Smith, who set a new club record for the longest time between two goals. Smith scored in the Isthmian League side's 9-0 win over Lowestoft last weekend – a whopping 19 years, seven months and nine days after his previous goal for the East London club.

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Flock to the rock

The Mo Salah effect is in full flow in Turkey. After posting a picture on an innocuous-looking rock in Trabzon's highlands, the spot has become a hotspot, with fans flocking to visit the rock. A sign and bench were erected – until they were reportedly stolen from the site. Local media report that security cameras may be installed.

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Age is just a Bamber

Warwickshire title-winner Ethan Bamber told Cricinfo that “the ship has sailed” on his England chances. But at just 27 years old he should take some encouragement from others who made their Test debuts later in life. They include Graeme Swann (who was 29), Jonathan Trott (28), Brydon Carse (29), Joe Denly (32) and John Childs (36).

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[A week is a long time... in football] Since the City verdict, the stakes have rapidly escalated, writes Rory Smith

Things used to be so innocent. It is hard to remember, now, but there was a time – not really so long ago – when football was a simple game. Jumpers for goalposts. Flying wingers. Arsenal's blitz offence at corners. Four-minute delays as we crossed to Stockley Park to discover if Enzo Fernández was offside.

It seems like only last week, for example, that Manchester City were overwhelmingly found guilty of breaching the Premier League's financial rules on an industrial scale; it feels like just a few days ago that the independent panel that heard the case published its core decision, at last exposing to sunlight what appears to be the greatest cheating scandal in the English game's history.

Somehow, everything that has happened since then has not only had the effect of stretching the last week into an aeon, but has turned that blissful period when all we had to worry about was the effect of City's disgrace on the continued viability of the Premier League as a sporting competition into something approaching a halcyon age.

How naive we were. Since the Premier League published the panel's “final award” on Tuesday – subject to appeal, City strenuously protest their innocence, comprehensive body of irrefutable proof etcetera – the case has broken containment. Somehow, what all of this means for the Premier League is now the least of our worries.

We have known for some time, of course, that football is important. The Premier League is important. The game is the last great collective cultural form, the one shared global obsession that cannot be completely fractured by algorithms, and England's top flight – by hook and often by crook – sits at the sharp end of that. It ranks among this country's greatest soft-power exports. What we could not have grasped, not fully, until the shockwaves of the City case started to ripple out, was just how central it had become, how deeply enmeshed it had grown with politics, with the economy, with diplomacy.

Football has always been treated as a sideshow, a distraction from all the things that really matter. It turns out it is the thing that matters.

Rock and a hard place: Andy Burnham, above with City chair Khaldoon Al Mubarak, needs to mollify an ally which could cost his credibility.

Paul Ellis/AFP/

Getty Images

There have, over the last week, been two timelines. The first is the sporting one. The panel's overall verdict – finding City guilty of all but one of the hundred-plus they faced, ranging from non-cooperation to disguising the source of some of their commercial funding – landed last Friday.

City released a terse statement. The club's chairman, Khaldoon Al Mubarak, released a slightly more detailed one on Saturday.

On Tuesday, the publication of the panel's findings revealed just how scathing the decision was, just how deep the offences ran. Many of City's commercial arrangements, they determined, were shams. They accused some of the club's witnesses of knowingly misrepresenting information, a legalese euphemism for lying.

There were statements from the Premier League and the club. Ferran Soriano, City's CEO, sent a video

to club staff in which he spoke for three minutes without blinking. On Thursday evening, City lodged their formal appeal.

On Friday, amid another blizzard of statements, they confirmed they had done so.

All of that might have been anticipated. It followed a recognisable pattern: claim and counterclaim, call and response, albeit one that had at its heart something that felt like an existential matter for the league itself.

More startling was the constant buzzing of the second timeline. Not the guesswork about how City might appeal, or the panting speculation about how they might be punished, or the constant bleating about the rules preventing owners investing in football, but the rapid escalation in the stakes: a controversy that has its roots in enabling a football team to sign Eliaquim Mangala suddenly metastasising into a full-blown international incident.

it might have been involved in the so-called “Disguised Funding Scheme”. The company has, it has been suggested, retained the famously aggressive Quinn Emanuel for their counter-attack.

Etihad Airways, City's anchor sponsor, started things off, threatening to sue the Premier League for bringing its good name into disrepute by suggesting that

By the end of the week, even that seemed like small fry: Bloomberg was reporting that officials in the United Arab Emirates had warned the decision might affect bilateral trade with the United Kingdom, while the Telegraph suggested that the country might pull investment from a high-tech corridor between Oxford and Cambridge that might eventually be worth £78 billion to the British economy.

Downing Street had, reportedly, "not denied" that the funding might be at stake.

Those threats, of course, raise a number of questions: why would the UAE respond so furiously at the prospect of a club it has always said it does not own being punished? And why would an autocratic regime unaccustomed to being held accountable feel the need to be so aggressive when City, famously, have a comprehensive body of irrefutable proof of their innocence?

Thus far, the man who would have to resist them, the prime minister, does not seem to have been able to come up with an answer to this.

His first intervention on the subject seemed to linger longer than might have been expected on his belief that Everton, found guilty of much more minor offences a few years ago, were harshly treated. He then suggested that he would be “concerned” at the prospect of “losing” City’s owners, given all they have done for Manchester.

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‘Burnham is the man to have to resist them but does not seem to have the answer’

He later clarified those comments – not once, but twice – but his vulnerability on the issue is now plain to see. He will know now that his initial remarks misread the public mood. He will know, too, that this is now not merely a Premier League issue.

Dame Meg Hillier, chair of the Treasury Select Committee, has asked HMRC to investigate the potential tax implications of City's financial sleight of hand; Liam Byrne, chair of the House of Commons' business committee, has requested the Financial Reporting Council to look into what might constitute a “serious failure of scrutiny” from City's auditors.

That leaves Burnham in an invidious position, caught between the need to mollify an ally and a growing sense that doing so would not only cost him his credibility but might even paint the country as a whole as powerless to stand up to the absolutist monarchy of a petro-state.

The Premier League has long been how Britain has presented itself to the world. What happens now will be a test of how the world sees Britain.

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It's too late to end Premier League's relationship with states

Even if City's owners sell up, England's top flight has already welcomed Abramovich and PIF with open arms, writes George Simms

So, you think nation states shouldn't be able to own football clubs. An admirable cause. The right one, probably, though a little late, if

I'm being harsh. Except, of course, in the Premier League's eyes, this isn't actually a problem, because no nation state owns any of its clubs.

Manchester City's appeal, insofar as it extends beyond “I’m not sure you heard us the first time”, hinges on Sheikh Mansour and his Abu Dhabi United Group (ADUG) for Development and Investment’s separation from the Emirati government. This, as the independent commission already found, is about as distinct a separation as Tyler Durden and The Narrator in Fight Club, but is one that the Premier League maintains exists, as it has for the past 18 years.

Mansour is vice-president of the UAE, and the president's brother. In a non-exhaustive list, City chair Khaldoon Al Mubarak is de facto prime minister of Abu Dhabi, CEO and managing director of a sovereign wealth fund, UAE presidential special envoy to China and its main liaison with the US,

and chair of numerous banks and energy boards. Any government funding to City's sponsors likely required at least some element of: "Do you fancy propping up this sponsorship deal, Khaldoon?" "Now you mention it, that sounds like a cracking idea, Khaldoon."

Beyond Manchester, had Saudi Arabia's sovereign wealth fund (PIF) and its chair Mohammed bin Salman not been deemed sufficiently separate from the wider state of Saudi Arabia and its Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman, the Newcastle United takeover would not have passed the Premier League's owners and directors' test. And yet it did, because ultimately the Premier League isn't in the habit of turning down inordinate sums of money.

What would regulations to block any state actors from owning clubs actually look like? Money and power are inseparable, and buying a Premier League club requires a lot of one and at least some of the other. You should not be able to own a club if you hold any government position, sure, but what if it's ceremonial, or if you've just stepped down? Should you not be able to join a consortium?

What if you're a royal but have limited power or influence (imagine Prince Harry trying to buy Brentford)? What if you own, for example, the fifth-largest company in the world by market cap, one with numerous state contracts and significant influence, as well as a major national newspaper in your country?

Where do you draw the line? Roman Abramovich was close to Vladimir Putin, but no one earnestly believes Big Bad Vlad was deciding whether Chelsea needed a new No 9. Remember Sheikh Jassim bin Hamad Al Thani and his £5 billion bid to buy Manchester United? From the little we knew,

Sheikh down

Key figures from

the boardroom

to the dugout

Abdulla Khouri Board 2018-

Sheikh Mansour

Owner 2008-

Owner of Manchester City and majority shareholder of its parent company City Football Group. Mansour bought the club in 2008 and holds a 81% stake. He is a deputy prime minister and vice-president of the United Arab Emirates.

Alberto Galassi Board 2012-

THE BOARD

Khaldoon Al Mubarak

Chairman 2008-

Al Mubarak over-•• sees day-to-day operations of the club and has developed it from a mid-table Premier League club to a footballing behemoth. Al Mubarak is also CEO of Mubadala Investment Company, which manages \$85bn of assets around the world. According to the Financial Times, Mubadala has been lead investor in a partnership that has generated £30bn in investment commitments from the UAE into the UK.

Simon Pearce Board 2008-

Board member of Manchester City and senior adviser to the Abu Dhabi leadership. Peace joined the UAE's executive affairs authority, which provides strategic advice to the president, in 2006. He was appointed to the City board in 2008 and managed the takeover process. Pearce wrote several of the emails at the centre of the Premier League's case against City. According to Der Spiegel, asked by Chumillas if City were allowed to change the date of sponsorship payments, Pearce is alleged to have replied: "Of course. We can do what we want."

John MacBeath Board 2010-

Simon Cliff

General counsel 2009-

Cliff was part of the legal team that represented Abu Dhabi United Group on the takeover in 2008, then became general counsel of the club the following year. He became general counsel for City Football Group in 2013. Der Spiegel reported that Cliff coined the term “Project Longbow”, designed to boost revenues and reduce losses. Project Longbow was legitimate but the Premier League said in its verdict that one of its strands, the “Fordham Arrangement”, was “little more than a front for ADUG”.

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Ferran Soriano CEO 2012-

Soriano was appointed in September 2012, and has been the most visible member of the club's leadership throughout the current crisis. In a leaked video sent to City staff this week, Soriano said the guilty verdict was based on "a single false accusation" and a "Premier League conspiracy theory".

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Jorge Chumillas CFO 2013-16

Former CFO of City Football Group. He joined the club in 2013 and left in 2016 due to ill health. Chumillas's name features in the leaked emails published by Der Spiegel in 2018 that details internal sponsorship funding.

Mohamed Mubarak Al Mazrouei Board 2010-22

Martin Edelman Board 2008-

Mark Hughes

Manager

2008-09

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Manuel Pellegrini Manager 2013-16

Roberto Mancini

Manager 2009-13

Brian Kidd

Caretaker

manager 2013

Former manager of Manchester City. Mancini led the club between 2009 and 2013, winning their first Premier League title in 2012. His contract arrangements via Al Jazira, a club also owned by Sheikh Mansour, have come under scrutiny. Mancini, who now manages the Italian national team, said in 2023 that “I have paid my taxes, it is all above board”. Asked to respond to the verdict last week, before it was confirmed, he said: “Manchester City has not been found guilty, and on the double contract it isn’t my concern. It’s their issue, not mine.”

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Graham Wallace COO & CFO 2009-12

Tom Glick

CCO & COO

2012-15

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Garry Cook CEO 2008-11 Board 2008-11

Former CEO of Manchester City. Cook was in the role from 2008 to 2011. He oversaw the transition from Thaksin Shinawatra to Sheikh Mansour during the September 2008 takeover.

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Txiki Begiristain Director of football 2012-25

Former director of football at Manchester City. Begiristain, who had an illustrious playing career for Barcelona and Spain, managed club operations at City between 2012 and 2025.

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Pep Guardiola Manager 2016-26

Manager of Manchester City throughout the Premier League investigation. Guardiola won 20 trophies, including six league titles, during his decade-long tenure at the club. He repeatedly defended City when asked about the charges, saying in 2023 when they were first announced that his “first thought is we’re already being condemned”. Responding to the verdict last week, he told the club’s fans: “I am here – more than ever.”

Omar

Berrada

COO

2016-20

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Enzo Maresca Manager 2026-

Succeeded Guardiola in June of this year, saying that he had no concerns about the Premier League charges. This is his third stint at the club after a season managing the Elite Development squad in 2020–21, and a season as one of Guardiola's assistants.

Mikel Arteta

Coach 2016-19

Former assistant coach at Manchester City, now manager of Arsenal, Arteta previously said that he witnessed no evidence of potential wrongdoing when he was working at City. He is yet to comment on the Premier League's verdict.

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Special report Manchester City

Jassim was chairman of Qatar Islamic Bank, a publicly traded bank, son of a former Qatari prime minister and is the brother of the current Emir.

Jassim's representatives always denied he was the soft face of a Qatari state bid, but human rights organisation FairSquare wrote to Uefa and the Premier League that "a basic study of Qatar's political and economic system amply demonstrates the impossibility of any Qatari consortium proving itself independent of state influence". Jassim's bid included a bank guarantee signed by the chief executive of Qatar National Bank, half-owned by the Qatari government via its sovereign wealth fund.

So, should Jassim have not been allowed to own the club of which he appeared to be a legitimate, longstanding fan because of an ultimately unprovable connection to a government in which he holds no role?

The Premier League would have had sweet, sweet plausible deniability, and it is difficult to imagine a defensible set of regulations that would have blocked his takeover, short of an effective ban on anyone from most Gulf states owning football clubs. Anyway, luckily United swerved Jassim and got – checks notes – Sir Jim “I’m so worried about Britain that here are some verbal grenades from Monaco” Ratcliffe.

But perhaps the fundamental question today is: once you've invited the tiger for tea, once you've let it eat all your food and drink the taps dry, how do you ask it to Foxtrot Oscar back from where it came? This, in theory, is where the Independent Football Regulator (IFR) comes in.

This week, IFR chair David Kogan said it has “powers to assess the suitability of owners, directors

and executives and we will use these powers where appropriate, in the interests of protecting the sustainability, honesty and integrity of English football where there is clear evidence of wrongdoing by individuals". Of course, it is yet to demonstrate those powers, to clarify what assessing suitability actually entails, to prove it doesn't matter that the prime minister would be "really concerned" to lose ADUG from Manchester.

Even if the IFR can expel Mansour and Al Mubarak, so long as the PIF owns Newcastle, banning state actors from the Premier League would be somewhere between incoherently hypocritical and logistically impossible, coupled with the complication of Qatar still owning Paris Saint-Germain. Of course, various human rights-based justifications exist for the IFR to strip Newcastle from the PIF and Saudi Arabia, but the vast majority of these also existed in 2021 when the takeover occurred.

And as with the UAE, stripping Newcastle from the PIF would trigger a major diplomatic incident with a British ally – we're just over a decade on from government buildings across London flying flags at half-mast after King Abdullah's death. English football, and particularly the Premier League, is really just reflecting the nation around it.

None of this is to say that nothing should change, that the Premier League's ownership rules do not require fundamental reform, but this is a problem far beyond football, the problem that money – from state actors or your dime-a-dozen billionaire – buys impunity and silence and permission, that accountability is for the little people.

So, you think nation states shouldn't be able to own football clubs. An admirable cause. Though I doubt it will matter in the end.

Special report

Manchester City

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Man City player agents left in limbo after summer splurge

Some of the club's biggest stars are bound to move if sanctions hit hard, writes Rob Draper

Penny for the thoughts of Elliot Anderson, Enzo Fernández, Ayyoub Bouaddi and Illiman Ndiaye this weekend – or more specifically their agents. Last week, ESPN reported that Manchester City had been informed in July that they had been found guilty of Premier League charges, the same time as they were preparing bids for and finalising deals on a record-breaking transfer window.

Binding yourself to a long-term contract at a club which conceivably could now be relegated if City's appeal, launched on Thursday, fails, seems like ultimate buyer's regret. Anderson, who cost £116 million, was a record fee for a British player while Fernández, at £125m, was a joint-Premier League record figure. It's unclear exactly what was said to those players signing for City this summer as the club declined to comment on the reports. But splashing out £458m in deals – even if they recouped around £277m in sales – was an astonishing bet on the club's future and their innocence if City did know what was coming.

However, an agent who has dealt with City extensively in the past and who raised the issue of the 115 charges with them gives an indication of how

Buyer's regret: Elliott Anderson (right) and Enzo Fernández (left) could find themselves relegated if their new club does not win appeal. Shaun Brooks/ CameraSport/ Getty Images

confident they have been. “They told us: ‘It’s going to get sorted.’ They said they had done nothing wrong. They were absolutely convinced they had done no wrong.” The agent in question remained sceptical but expediently anticipated some kind of plea-bargain compromise with the Premier League. And the player wished to sign for City – as most would – so eventually the deal was done.

For now most City players will be placing their faith in the bullish response of Manchester City and assuming the judgment will be overturned by City's lawyers, just as a Uefa ban was at the Court of Arbitration for Sport (Cas) in 2020.

However, agents will be aware that Cas ruled in favour of City partly because the most serious evidence of wrongdoing was time-barred but principally because Uefa proceeded without securing the evidence. City refused to disclose their internal emails and Uefa gave up trying to make them.

The Premier League, on the other hand, has no time bar for offences – hence they go back to 2009 – and also fought and won a lengthy and expensive arbitration case with City to force the club to disclose all the documents. In short, this judgment is much more serious for the club, harder to overturn and is causing concern among agents with players at City.

“They [agents] will be looking at whether they will get their commissions paid in full,” said one agent. “You get paid commission season by season, over the length of the contract. And I imagine you would be thinking: ‘I’ve had my first £500,000, but am I getting any more out of this [if City are relegated]? So where do I get him to a club that’s going to get us the same money and he’ll be happy?’ There are not many clubs of the same size out there. Players like Antoine Semenyo, Erling Haaland, Phil Foden, Anderson [and] Fernández will find other clubs to pay them their wages, particularly if they’re going cheap. But there are others on £150,000 a week who will struggle and be stuck at City.”

The appeal is now in process, although sanctions could be announced before that is completed. However, sanctions may not apply until the appeal has concluded and then could be further delayed by City appealing the sanctions themselves. At which point the summer transfer window will be looming, meaning a nerve-racking game of stick or twist for agents and players.

In the worst-case scenario for City, with relegation or multi-year punishments making them uncompetitive, agents will be rushing to prepare escape routes. However, they will be wary of moving too soon, just in case there is an “Agüerooo” moment in the courtroom. If City were to be vindicated or even just mitigate the sanctions, they could remain a financial force rather than the sinking ship they look like right now. And no one wants to get on the wrong side of the money in Premier League football.

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Etihad clash reminder of City Women's ties to club's 114 charges

Jessy

Parker Humphreys

There was not much to suggest a club under existential threat on Thursday as Manchester City Women became the first City side to play publicly since the Premier League announced that an independent commission had found the club “guilty of all financial charges”. Some fans sang Sheikh Mansour’s name during their 1-1 draw with Real Madrid, but the majority stuck to the more familiar songbook aimed at the women’s team.

The main narrative has been that the charges bear little relation to City's women's team, and if anything, the criticism levelled at City over the years has been that their owners have not spent enough money on the women's side.

City's arrival in the WSL was controversial. The FA announced one game into the 2013 season that Doncaster Belles would be relegated to the second division for 2014, with the newly revamped City taking their place in the division. The Belles won two league titles and six FA Cups across the 1980s and 1990s, so the decision was deeply disputed. It gave the impression that the FA was cosying up to a bigger club which had not previously invested in the women's game, just because it had greater financial backing. The fact

that the independent commission has now shown that the club was flagrantly breaching Premier League rules during that period makes that decision by the FA look egregious, but it is water long under the bridge.

City did not put much money into the team in 2014 however, and even examining more recent accounts of the women's team, they fall far behind Chelsea and Arsenal in that regard. Chelsea reported commercial revenue of more than £16 million

in 2024-25, while reported commercial and group income of £13.5m. City meanwhile were just below £7m.

Arsenal revenue

City Women's manager Andrée Jeglertz would not comment on whether the women's team would be affected, but said it was "business as usual". The players are said to be unfazed by the noise surrounding the men's half of the club. It is also understood that the WSL will not investigate the women's team in any way.

It undeniably helps that City have struggled to have sustained domestic success. After first winning the WSL in 2016, they waited a decade to win it again, and although they have won eight further domestic trophies in that time, their success pales into insignificance compared to Chelsea.

Anything from the sale of the club to multiple men's relegations could alter the course of the women's team, whether in terms of financial backing or club image. Sanctions may put players off joining, but

there are very few women's sides as wealthy as City. It is also notable that last month City launched women's game is with the squad-cost regulations being used in the WSL on a formal basis for the first time this season. These limit salary caps to $80\%$ of revenue, with only an allowable top-up of £4m or $25\%$ of the team's revenue permitted from the ownership, whichever is higher.

One question that the Premier League verdict poses – to all leagues – is how well it is able to audit information that clubs are providing. This is made harder in the women's game, where commercial contracts might sit across both teams.

team, further emphasising the distinction between them and the men's side.

Where the decision might most impact the

City face Arsenal at the Etihad on Sunday in one of their biggest games of the season. The game's atmosphere may depend on how much Arsenal fans are paying attention to the scandal rather than their own team's poor form. While there is no direct link between the men's team's situation and the women's team's existence, when they walk out of the tunnel at a ground covered in the branding of one of those "sham" deals, they may still feel implicated.

Old vs new: Roy Evans (right); Leanne Donnelly (far right) in front of her Lunch Box cafe in Ancoats. Amit Lennon Photography

‘My brother was a keen kayaker. The canals around here were part of a network called the Cheshire Loop. He said it was where you could not canoe on your own’

Roy Evans

'Apparently the cafe's getting torn down, but I've heard it so often that I'll believe it when it's definitely happening. I can cook bacon and eggs anywhere'

Leanne Donnelly

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Look at Manchester, no wonder Burnham is torn

Prime minister was mayor during gentrification but the future is uncertain. By Rory Smith

The pencil hovers over the sketchpad delicately perched on Roy Evans's knees as he sits in a foldable camping chair, considering the angles of the painstakingly restored saw-tooth roof of Stubbs Mill.

Evans will happily draw anything - his book is filled with country churches, stone bridges, grand facades – on his weekly outings with the Manchester division of a group known as the Urban Sketchers. “It’s a bit like Hell’s Angels, in that it’s a movement with chapters all over the world,” he says. This is probably where the similarities end.

His favourites, though, are generally places like Stubbs Mill, originally a Victorian factory producing machines for the cotton trade but revived over the past decade as the European headquarters of Fanatics, the global sports merchandise behemoth.

"I like that contrast between the old and the new," he says.

Ancoats and New Islington were once the flywheel of the Industrial Revolution, but by the end of the 20th century they had fallen into disrepair, the mills abandoned, the warehouses derelict, the chimneys that had belched black smoke into the air long since extinguished.

It was not, at that stage, the sort of place where someone might sit on a street corner and idly doodle. "My brother was a keen kayaker," Evans says. "The canals around here were part of a network called the Cheshire Loop. He said this was the only part of it where you couldn't canoe on your own."

The change in the past 10 years is absolute. Sleek apartment blocks have sprung up along wharfs filled with swans and narrowboats. The mills and the warehouses have been repointed, revamped, repurposed as co-working spaces and pilates studios, wastelands transformed into green spaces, a place that was once a theme park for post-industrial decay turned into an advert for 21st-century urbanism.

There is no shortage of developments like this around the world. Cotton Field Wharf, Smith's Yard and the rest are not markedly different from Coal Drops Yard or Paddington Basin in London, Chelsea Market in New York or Fitzroy in Melbourne: the same red-brick chic, the same coffee shops selling jambon-beurres at £6 a pop. The stylistic hegemony is so great that the Qatari authorities built one, Msheireb, for the 2022 World Cup, skipping the “industrial” bit in “post-industrial” in the process.

What distinguishes the regenerated streets of Ancoats and New Islington, of course, is their broader significance. It is precisely the sort of project, blending the old and new, the public and private, that symbolises the enigmatic political philosophy that has come to be known as Manchesterism and swept Andy Burnham from the city's mayor to the post of prime minister.

They are also the primary fruits of the union between the city of Manchester and the owners of Manchester City. Manchester Life, a joint venture between the council and Abu Dhabi United Group (ADUG), the private-equity vehicle that owns the club, has developed six apartment buildings – all within a short walk of each other – since acquiring the land in 2014. That investment has long attracted criticism and controversy. Although the development provided almost 1,500 homes, none of them were classified as affordable housing in a city with an urgent need for it. Instead, about a quarter were made available for sale, with the rest assigned as rental properties.

In 2019, the Sunday Times reported that none of that income went to the council. A 2022 study by a team from the University of Sheffield found that, instead, they were directed to holding companies registered in Jersey. They suggested that, by leasing the land necessary for the developments to ADUG at less than market rate, the council had signed a “bad deal” for

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Burnham praised the club owners' role in building the modern Manchester

Manchester, transferring “public wealth to private hands”.

The council has always rejected that characterisation, telling the Guardian this week that it had been “debunked” several times, choosing instead to focus on not just the tax income from the developments but the impact they have had on a forlorn part of the city.

Burnham echoed that stance this week when he praised the role the club's owners have played in building the modern Manchester. At one point – before a hurried clarification from his press office – the prime minister almost seemed to quote the banner that has long hung from one of the stands at the Etihad Stadium: “Manchester thanks you, Sheikh Mansour.”

Walking around the developments, there is little doubt about the difference it has made. “A lot of it down there was wasteland for ages,” said Leanne Donnelly, the owner of the Ancoats Lunch Box, a cafe almost exactly halfway between the wharfs and the Etihad Campus, the vast tract of land contiguous to the stadium that houses City’s training facilities, as well as stadiums for its youth and women’s teams and, most recently, the black box of the Co-Op Live concert venue.

Under this ownership, City have done no little community work, but there should be no illusion that Manchester Life is part of it. It is a real-estate investment, a business opportunity. Still: nobody disputes that it has been beneficial. “You can feel the change,” Donnelly said.

The impact, though, is not even. Gentrification has yet to arrive in Donnelly's part of Ancoats. She receives occasional letters – and, more frequently, spots announcements in the Manchester Evening News – telling her that one plan or another is going to transform the area, whether they are linked to City's owners or not.

"There's one that is meant to have a lido," she said. "Apparently the cafe's getting torn down, but I've heard it so often that I'll believe it when I'm told it's definitely happening." She does not seem especially concerned by any of it. "I can cook bacon and eggs anywhere."

She has seen benefits to the development going on near, if not exactly around, her. Some have been direct – “we got the workers when they built the Asda, and the tram, and the stadium, and the arena” – and some probably classify as ancillary. “It’s nice to hear the noise when City score,” she said, slightly grudgingly (her family loyalties lie elsewhere). “And I got to hear Take That for free.”

But for the time being at least, this part of the city is not Burnham's Manchester or Abu Dhabi's Manchester: it is, instead, an in-between sort of a place, full of garages and scrapyards and low-slung prefabs housing electrical wholesalers, waiting – nervously, excitedly – for someone else's sketch of the future to be imposed on it.

Rory Smith

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City's ‘lone ranger’ mentality is threat to what made Premier League great

Once the principle of collectivism is gone, where is the incentive for English football's more traditional powerhouses – Manchester United, Arsenal, Liverpool – to keep up appearances?

To paraphrase Super Hans: the secret ingredient is co-operation. Over the past three decades, that has been the

single most important thing in transforming English football from a backwater into a gleaming citadel, a monument in glass and steel, dwarfing the rest of the game.

History played a part, obviously. The style of play was a factor. Packed stadiums meant an evocative backdrop. Little tricks – like ensuring the microphones around the pitch captured the noise of the crowd, rather than the players – made for a more compelling television product. And there is the language advantage, too, the fact it all takes place in English.

The rise of the Premier League might frequently have been presented as some sort of evolutionary inevitability, a reasserting of the game's natural order, but the reality is a little bit less manifest destiny. The Premier League has thrived because, right from the start, the principle of collectivism was baked into its source code. The Founder Members' Agreement – the document that laid out how the league would work if, and when, it broke away from the Football League – is the distinctly grandiose name given to the single sheet of paper, composed over the course of one two-hour meeting, which has come to possess the status of a holy writ, immutable and eternal.

It is there that the basic commandments of what would become the Premier League were first written: that each club would have a single vote, that decisions would be made with a two-thirds majority, and that the television revenue the breakaway league earned would be shared equitably between its members.

Reaching that decision required some compromise. Some owners, including Wimbledon's Sam Hammam, wanted to adopt the NFL's approach, and a straight split: taking the total sum and dividing it by the number of teams. Representatives of some of the larger clubs – what we would now call a cartel – felt they had a right to take the lion's share.

Robert Chase, the Norwich City chairman, was the one who solved the riddle. He did not mind finishing the season having made less money than Arsenal, he told the meeting, but he objected firmly to starting the campaign knowing it would end that way, no matter how the two teams performed.

And so the clubs decided on a formula. Domestic broadcast

In retrospect, that decision was a masterstroke. Effectively, it enshrined in the league the competitive balance that would – although, until relatively recently, massively exaggerated – become its calling card. In what is otherwise a monument to the full throttle, dog-eat-dog Thatcherism of most of the rich white men at that meeting, it is a little sliver of American-style sporting socialism, one that binds the otherwise oppositional members of the league together in mutual interest, to ensure that a rising tide lifts all boats. The success of the Premier League, 35 years on, is proof of its importance.

revenue would be shared on a 50/25/25 ratio: half distributed equally, a quarter according to performance, and a quarter according to the number of TV appearances each club made. International television income was added almost as a footnote, but followed the same pattern.

That it is threatened by the mushroom cloud of fallout from the Manchester City case is something of an understatement. We can still, at this stage, only really guess at the outline of how City have appealed against the damning findings of the independent panel convened to rule on more than 100 charges of breaches of the Premier League's financial rules, over the course of a decade.

And yet it seems clear that absolutely nothing is off the table, that the club – having already been found to have failed to act “in the utmost good faith” with the investigation – are prepared to burn the whole thing down in order to purge the merest suggestion of wrongdoing: to gum up the competition with legal action for as long as necessary, to use political and diplomatic pressure, to call into question the legitimacy of the panel, the rules, even the league itself.

Blue moon setting? The Man City case threatens consensus the Premier League was founded on Simon Stacpoole/Getty

All of this might be considered quite odd for a team that has a comprehensive body of conclusive proof of their own indisputable innocence, but even leaving that aside, the effect of all this seems fairly clear. Ferran Soriano, their chief executive, once wrote about his desire to see his former team,

Barcelona, “win every game” rather than help their domestic rivals grow. City have internalised that logic. Their interests and those of the league no longer dovetail.

There are those who might welcome that, who would suggest that the rules as they stand are rigged to favour the established elite, who believe banning owners from investing in their own clubs is counter-intuitive, who are convinced we should let the market rip.

Strangely, though, that appears only to work one way. In this telling, City (and others) should be allowed to use the inbuilt advantage of their owners' immense wealth but those sides they seek to overturn should not. In a wholly free market, for example, why would Manchester United, Liverpool and Arsenal – the league's three biggest draws, by some distance – want to share television revenue? Why would they pretend their self-interest aligned with everyone else's? Once that principle of collectivism is gone, not worth the single piece of paper it is written on, why would anyone continue to abide by it?

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England show they know how to save their best for when they need it least

Thomas Tuchel's side were so dominant against Croatia it verged on the absurd

Croatia

England

AH. Kane (8, 53)

J. Bellingham (21)

A. Gordon (39)

B. Saka (45, 68)

M. Rogers (87)

George Simms

Stadion Rijeka

Can we play you every week? No, like, seriously? It would really, really help us out if we could play you every week. It just isn't the same against those other guys. England conjured up their best 45 minutes since they last faced Croatia, devastatingly fast and fluid and intentional, an exhibition of both what this team is capable of and how far some recent performances have been from that.

In front of 6,000 Croat schoolchildren – fans older than 14 were banned for racially abusing French players last year – at points this could have been enough to put these kids off the sport for life. In the past three decades, England have only scored more goals away from the UK in matches against San Marino.

But really this game should be remembered for Alex Scott's first England start, a beautifully smooth yet tenacious footballer, the Spanish midfielder this country supposedly doesn't produce. Taking Kobbie Mainoo to the World Cup despite clearly not trusting him was Thomas Tuchel's most obvious error this summer, a fact he has intimated to Scott. Scott and Elliot Anderson started together in the 2025 Under-21 Euro-winning squad and clearly complement each other in a way Anderson and Rice don't, compensate for each other's weaknesses and accentuate strengths. His ability to control pace and recycle possession should make him a genuine competitor for Rice or Anderson's positions.

And here was the clearest evidence yet that Harry Kane, Jude Bellingham, Bukayo Saka and Anthony Gordon might be the most gifted, dangerous and well-balanced attacking quartet of any team, club or country, having forged a remarkable coherence and mutual understanding that simply didn't exist six months ago. These were Kane's 10th and 11th England goals of 2026, the third calendar year in which he has reached double digits in international football, after 2019 and 2021.

Double trouble: Harry Kane scored two goals against a weak Croatian team in Rijeka. Igor Kupljenik/SPP/Imago GmbH/Avalon

This was Gordon's fourth goal in four England games, having scored or assisted in the past seven. His development, particularly since joining Barcelona, is a case study in confidence, in what being told Barcelona would like to spend £70m to acquire your services can do. In the basest sense, he just looks better, svelter and sharper, more direct and effective. Within three minutes he had forced a save from Dominik Livaković and proceeded to sprint with malicious intent for the ensuing 70 minutes, setting up Bellingham for England's second and then scoring their third. He appears to feel as

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Kane, Bellingham, Saka and Gordon have forged a coherence that simply didn't exist six months ago

though he belongs here in a way he never has before, and reprising his relationship with Lewis Hall over the past two matches has helped him find more space and opportunity.

Perhaps the most obvious conclusion was that all football matches should be solely attended by schoolchildren. Once you get past the ceaseless piercing scream it really is a lot of fun. One class had clearly used their week productively, unfurling a hand-drawn banner reading: "It's not coming home". And look, fair play, but AI might rot their brains to the extent they struggle to function as adults, so who are the real winners here? Different schools produced different imitations of a traditional football crowd, tiny hands brandishing imaginary yellow cards, throwing some pretty brutal thumbs-downs and failing to start a Mexican wave, even the odd flare of aggro towards England's bucket-hatted brigade.

And having given Trent Alexander-Arnold his first international start in six years against Czechia on Tuesday, in which he assisted the opening goal, Tuchel promptly dropped him once more for Jarell Quansah, who did his best Alexander-Arnold impression with a series of crosses dipped into the six-yard box, setting up Gordon. Croatia, meanwhile, played like a team managed by Slaven Bilić.

The Stadion Rujevica is carved into hills above Rijeka, overlooking the Adriatic sea, with a capacity of little over 8,000. The away stand is both encased by a steel cage and draped in netting, raising questions about what on earth happens here most Saturdays – the 100 England “hardcores”, as Jordan Pickford called them, given tickets for this game were initially supposed to be housed in it before they protested. Where’s their sense of adventure? Pre-match, obnoxiously loud music blasted over the city, including what transpired to be a loose Croatian cover of We Didn’t Start The Fire (chorus translation: We are few, but we exist. It’s not important, we will crush everyone’s dreams). There’s only so good you can be in a stadium like this, which simply cannot be allowed to be the setting of one of England’s great performances.

Highly confident: Anthony Gordan made it three for England before the break.

Carl Recine/

Getty Images

These matches increasingly appear to be the sweet spot for Tuchel's England, teams ranked between 10 and 20 in the world, competent and ambitious enough to offer space without quite possessing the resources to consistently prod at the soft spots in their defences. This team's best pre-World Cup performance was away in Serbia in September 2025, and little over a year later they exceeded it, with a ruthlessness which verged on cruel.

It has always felt slightly inevitable that this team would realise its ability a few months after one major tournament and almost two years from the next, that it might well peak in a meaningless Euro 2028 qualifier against Hungary or Finland some time late next year, just in time for Bellingham to do his ACL and Gordon to not score for three years. In vastly different circumstances, but each similarly meaningless, England have been 4-0 up by half-time in two of their past four matches. This is a team that just knows how to get bigger when the occasion shrinks, how to save the best for when they need it least.

England have played Croatia six times in the past eight years, a benchmark for both nations' progress, a derby by brute repetition, even if England have now won the last four by 14 goals to three, unbeaten in five since the

three, unbeaten in five since the 2018 World Cup semi-final. This was cathartic and fun, a little slice of revenge for Moscow, if verging on absurd, so dominant as to fuel almost invalid. Can we play you every week?

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Alex Scott is taking matters into her own hands

After BBC decided to cancel its Women's Football Show, the presenter built a new one from scratch, writes Jessica Hayden

Jess Glynne is running around the One More Word studio on a Sunday night. She is moving furniture, putting empty cups in the bin and asking guests if they have been to the toilet before the filming starts. "I'm just the social media girl," she says, her red curls sitting in a messy bun on top of her head. "Well, I do whatever needs doing." Here, she is no longer Jess Glynne the world-famous singer working on her next album. She is Jessica, partner of Alex Scott, and she is effectively working as a showrunner for the WSL YouTube chat show founded by Scott.

The format is that fans or content creators from each WSL club form the panel and sit opposite Scott, who is joined by her fellow former footballers Fara Williams and Anita Asante as they talk about each game from the weekend. "It's Match of the Day for the women's game," Scott says.

The former England captain created the show, which she funds herself, in response to the cancellation of the BBC's Women's Football Show. "We had something taken away, a decision that was made," she says. "And I just thought, 'I've set up First Cap [a production company], I could do

‘Whether you think I’m good at my job or not... I’ve always tried my best for women’s sport’ a show, so I'm doing this.' I always look at the positive outcome of things, control the controllables." There is an air of defiance in her voice. First Cap produces One More Word and another women's sports project set to be in the works by the end of the year.

"I thought there needs to be something that speaks about the WSL fixtures and it just needs to be done right," she says. "The demand obviously is there, it's just trying to improve it in the right way and make it a show that sets a standard for that.

“Actually, by taking away the Women’s Football Show, you’ve got all the people that worked on that without jobs or getting paid. So I'm creating something that is going to hopefully pay Fara [Williams], pay all the pundits that come on, as well as giving everyone a platform. That's what I'm aspiring to do – you have had that taken away, I'm trying to replace it for you."

Scott is doing everything herself, from finding the panellists on social media to ordering the pizza and cleaning up the boxes afterwards. The studio is small and industrial, but it is filled with young, excited football fans who are giddy about watching Chelsea vs Arsenal with Scott, Williams and Asante.

The production is a world away from the TV studios that Scott has worked in over the past decade and is endearingly scrappy at times. Glynne, sitting on a sofa behind the cameras, is controlling the TV screen that the panel uses for analysis via her laptop, not always immediately picking up on her girlfriend's cues to switch to the next slide.

“We only have the studio for tonight, so we have to dismantle it all now and pack it up,” Scott says shortly after filming ends. Glynne walks past, carrying part of the set on her shoulder.

Scott now spends the week planning the episode, analyses every game, films on Sunday and then oversees the edit on Monday. It's a full-time job, and one that is costing her a lot of money. The show is yet to go out to sponsors.

Despite the increased workload, Scott seems happier than in the past. She speaks with passion, like a fire has been lit inside of her.

It has, undoubtedly, been a difficult year for Scott. Football Focus, the BBC show that had been running for 52 years and Scott had hosted for five, was axed in April during a year of significant BBC Sport cuts.

All hands on deck: Scott's new show features ex-pro pundits, a panel of WSL fans... and her partner Jess Glynne (top right) keeping on top of things. Chinonso

"It was hard because we all know what's going on with the BBC and all the cuts, and I think Football Focus always suffered from that," Scott says. "It very much went away from the original show that it was, and if you look at the headlines, people thought that was a result of me. But then I'm like, 'It's not me wanting new parts to be in the show. I have to turn up and be professional.' I just got to a stage where I was struggling with it."

Then last month, the first episode of the Disney+ Women's Champions League show she hosted

In the past: Scott has been a familiar face for BBC viewers, hosting the Women's Football Show, Football Focus and even The One Show. Leila Coker/Getty

– which inexplicably featured a dog called Barley Boy – was met with bad reviews. Scott is not happy with all the decisions that were made about the show. Decisions, she points out, for which she has been blamed despite not being in charge of it.

"I have to turn up and do my job," she says. "Ultimately, do I agree with all the decisions that were made? Absolutely not. Did I try and advise? Yes, but I can only do so much. It goes back to, actually, I'm going to turn up and sit there and try to be as professional as I can to deliver a show in a way that..." she pauses, stopping herself for a moment, before continuing: "I tried."

“Ultimately I will always hold my hands up, because I have been part of those shows,” she says. “Could I have done more? Take away the opinions of me, whether you think I’m good at my job or not, everyone is going to have opinions on that. But nobody sees the conversations, the fights I have behind the scenes. But I can hold my head up and know that I’ve always tried my best for the greater good of

women's sport."

One More Word is the first time Scott has been in complete control of a show. “I think my confidence has begun to grow, that actually I think [I know] what might work,” she says. Four episodes in and there have been mixed reactions, but Scott says the negative feedback has been listened to, and each episode develops a bit. She acknowledges that the first episode was shouty, with panellists talking over each other constantly. Scott gives feedback to guests after each show and there is now a calmer atmosphere during filming.

There had been discussions about Scott hosting a WSL YouTube show for the BBC, but that had not been agreed prior to the creation of One More Word. “I hadn’t signed any contracts or anything, so I was surprised to see my name, saying I’m hosting a new BBC YouTube show,” she says. “Nothing had been confirmed, the contracts, final line-ups or anything for the BBC.” The WSL, meanwhile, are supportive of the show.

She says setting up her own show was not a protest at the BBC cuts, but she is visibly frustrated by what she sees as a failure to recognise the growth in the women's game. "I feel like there's always an excuse about women's football shows not working because of the viewership or needing to save money," she says. "Whereas I think if they are done right, they can work, if things are given a fresh idea or a fresh format, they can work."

When we meet again, three days after the filming, Scott has spent the morning bagging up her outfits from Football Focus to take them to the charity shop. “I just feel like I’ve got a fresh start ahead of me, so I almost don’t want to hold on to that chapter, and every time I saw that rail of clothes I just thought, ‘That’s my Football Focus outfit,’” she says. Her sartorial choices for One More Word can be more stylish, less polished, and more her.

It feels like a neat way of closing a chapter, reminiscent of a break-up, but she insists it's not like that and she still has fond feelings towards the BBC. "To present shows like Children In Need and The One Show, it still blows my mind," she says. "The BBC have allowed me, over the last 10 years, the most amazing opportunities and I'll just be forever grateful.

“So despite everything that surrounds the BBC at the moment, I just think of that girl who started in a pub in the East End of London – I still pinch myself. But now, this just feels fresh and exciting.”

Promising player: Lexi Potter made an impression for Chelsea against OL Lyonnes in the Champions League (left). Valerio Pennicino/ Getty Images

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Potter's sliding doors moment with England could be pivotal

Missing U20

World Cup could

be the making

of Lexi Potter,

writes Jessy Parker

Humphreys

The moment that Laura Kaminski knew that Lexi Potter was different came a few weeks into the season. Potter had joined Kaminski's Crystal Palace side on loan at the start of the 2023-24 season as a 17-year-old, hoping for a first taste of senior football in Women's Super League 2. For the first few weeks, the midfielder couldn't break into the team, a frustrating reality for a player who was seen as one of the best in her age group at both Chelsea and England.

Potter went to Kaminski's office and asked her: "What do I need to do to play?"

"I'll never forget it," says Kaminski, who is now head coach at SK Brann in Norway. "A lot of players ask: 'Why am I not playing?'. That attitude from her, that hard work and humbleness, has put her in the position that she's in today."

If Potter was in a film of her life, the next 24 hours would have been a montage scene set to motivational music. After Kaminski told her some of the technical issues that she felt

Potter needed to work on if she was going to be a midfielder in the WSL2, she went out and began practising.

"I didn't have to design a session for her, or motivate her, or persuade her. I watched her – I'll never forget it – across the training pitches, practising at the end of a session things that I'd asked her to practise. I remember thinking this kid's different."

The next time Kaminski gave her a chance in the team was the last time she needed to. She played non-stop for Crystal Palace from then on, helping them win promotion and returning to play for them the season after in the WSL. "For me, if we did not have Lexi, we wouldn't have gotten promoted. Every player that played in that side at the time, I know will say the same thing."

Chelsea have shown themselves to be one of the elite academies in the women's game but the pathway to the senior team is arduous even for someone who is viewed as the future of the club. They decided not to loan Potter out last season, but minutes were tricky to come by with just 14 appearances. "She probably doesn't get the minutes she would like to have, and she deserves to have from her quality," admitted Sonia Bompastor after Potter had come on against St Polten in the Champions League in November. "I know how good she can be."

There was a question this season too about whether Potter should go to the Under-20 World Cup which took place in September. In the end, Chelsea made the decision for her. She stayed and, such is the nature of football, the sliding doors moment could be a pivotal one in her career. She has started four of Chelsea's six games this season, including playing every minute against Arsenal and OL Lyonnes. The strength of her performances led to clamour for a first senior England call-up – “I wish she was French!” said Bompastor after the Arsenal game – which she duly received from Sarina Wiegman this week.

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‘We wouldn’t have got promoted without her. Every player will say the same thing’ Laura Kaminski

The excitement around Potter has been supercharged by her burgeoning partnership with Keira Walsh. One of the changes Kaminski made to Potter's game at Crystal Palace was to shift her from being a box-to-box midfielder to playing more as a No 6. While she shone in a single pivot there, it is in a double pivot with Walsh that she is really getting the plaudits.

It is hard to think of a better player in world football for a young midfielder to learn from but Potter is also bringing out the best of the 29-year-old in a Chelsea shirt. It has been notable how much more freedom Walsh has on the pitch when she is alongside Potter, reminiscent of her time at Barcelona when she would trust that she had players like Patri Guijarro covering behind her giving her license to roam forward. It speaks volumes that she trusts Potter enough to be playing in the same way now.

"When Lexi's playing alongside me, she makes me feel really comfortable," said Walsh. "We've got a great partnership. That's probably where most of my confidence comes from.

"The way we see the game is very similar. We both see football in a very tactical way and I've really enjoyed playing with her so far. She's probably going to be better than me, to be honest." Walsh grew up watching clips of Yaya Touré, Sergio Busquets and Pep Guardiola at Barcelona while Potter cites Andrés Iniesta as her favourite player. That will go some way to explaining the connection the duo have on the pitch which Bompastor says is there even if they "close their eyes".

The possibility of them playing together for England is tantalising.

When Kaminski heard about Potter's call-up she was with Daniel Matraszek, her goalkeeping coach at Palace and now Brann. They face-timed to congratulate her.

“She’s very happy with it,” says Kaminski. “But at the same time, I know her feet are on the ground. She’s a coachable player, she listens to guidance, and a player that wants to put one step in front of the other to make sure that her career is sustainable. I’ve got a lot of respect for that.”

When asked how good Kaminski thinks Potter can be, she is definitive.

"I don't think there is a ceiling for Lexi Potter."

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The stats guide to this week's fixtures Bill Edgar

Manchester City vs Arsenal, Sunday, 4.30pm, WSL

City have matched their male counterparts by starting the league season with a 100% record. The WSL champions have been boosted by Khadija “Bunny” Shaw’s decision to extend her stay at the club: last season she became the first player to be top scorer, or joint-top scorer, in three successive WSL campaigns, and she is again equal-top scorer this term. She is not the only prolific footballing Bunny. Robert “Bunny” Bell is one of only two men to have scored nine or more in an EFL game, hitting nine in Tranmere Rovers’ 13-4 win over Oldham Athletic in 1935. Scotland vs Slovenia, Tuesday, 7.45pm, Nations League

Of the 29 players who appeared for Scotland across the 2016-17 campaign, only RB Leipzig's Oliver Burke was playing for a club outside Britain. Yet the present Scotland squad contains 11 players based abroad, and they could line up together in a natural position in a 3-5-2 formation: Gunn (San Jose); Hendry (Al-Ettifaq), McKenna (Dinamo Zagreb), Binks (Brøndby); Patterson (Torino), Ferguson (Bologna), Gilmour (Napoli), Miller (Udinese), Doig (Sassuolo): Ure (Sevilla), Bowie (Sassuolo). England vs Czech Republic, Tuesday, 7.45pm, Nations League

England are halfway through their first four-game sequence for nearly 60 years where they will have faced opposition with the same initial: Czech Republic, Croatia, Czech Republic, Croatia. This last happened from December 1967 to May 1968, when their run of fixtures against S teams extended to five: Soviet Union, Scotland, Spain, Spain, Sweden. Alex Scott made his debut against Czech Republic, which created the first case of the same full name appearing for both the England men's and women's teams: the female television presenter of that name won 140 caps. Chelsea vs Bournemouth, Saturday, 3pm, Premier League

In the 2024-25 season, Chelsea became the first team since Norwich City in 1989-90 to play an entire English top-flight campaign without fielding any players aged 28 or over. They continued their youth policy last season, but have brought in the older Jordan Henderson, Danny Welbeck and Emiliano Martínez. That leaves a strange gap. Of the 61 players Chelsea have selected since May 2024, none has been aged 29, 30, 31 or 32 at the time. Manchester United vs Tottenham, Saturday, 5.30pm, Premier League

Spurs have started the season badly and seem likely to extend their record for the longest unbroken English top-flight run that did not feature a league title: this is their 49th season in a row in the top division since promotion in 1978 and they have not become champions in that time. Next are Everton, with another current run, this being their 40th successive top-tier campaign since their title success in 1987.

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‘I became spokesperson for British weightlifting without even asking’

The growth in popularity of strength training shows the Emily Campbell effect is in full flow. By Jessy Parker Humphreys

When, at Tokyo 2020, Emily Campbell became Great Britain's first female

weightlifter to win an Olympic medal, the experience changed her life. Suddenly, Campbell was thrust into the limelight as the face of British weightlifting, as well as of being a strong woman.

Her thoughts on everything from body image to sportswear were solicited at a time when women were pushing to redefine what exercise looked like for them. It is easy to see why – she is gregarious, intelligent and outspoken. Five years on, with an appearance on Masterchef now also under her belt, Campbell is still speaking out about what matters.

The Emily Campbell effect ( $^{™}$ ) is in full flow in Britain. More women than ever before are engaging with weight training, wanting to lift heavy. Gyms across the country are extending their strength areas in order to keep up with demand. When Campbell went to watch the Youth National Championships recently, she was struck by just how many girls were competing. If anything, she says, British weightlifting needs more boys to get involved.

“You do feel the sense of responsibility that you’re not just doing this for yourself. You’re doing this for a wider cause and for the sport that you love the most. I’ll always speak about things that I am passionate about and I won’t just jump on the bandwagon because something is popular right now. I speak about things that I feel need to change and I feel I can have an impact on.”

Campbell has been partnering with fitness company Les Mills their ownership and going: 'You don't speak for me.'

“Sometimes I feel a responsibility for our sport because of the position that I’m in and the things I’ve achieved,” says Campbell. “I essentially became the spokesperson for British weightlifting without even asking for the job. It’s the first job I’ve never had to interview for.

When it comes to the change in attitude from women in terms of what they are trying out at the gym, Campbell points to the ever-increasing profile of sportswomen. "All the track girls get photographed for how stunning they are and their muscles are part of being stunning. It's nice now that we're starting to see more and more women put in the light of beauty when they have got a muscular body."

Yet Campbell has concerns around the way social media can portray going to the gym sometimes, particularly with videos which “put people off”. While women-only gyms are becoming increasingly popular in order to create spaces for women to exercise without men around, Campbell thinks there is a notion that men are more negative in gym spaces than they actually are.

The impact of that is being felt across age groups, with Campbell's friend's daughter recently telling her how she was working on her back muscles so she would look good in her prom dress.

"I think it's the rise of women being more independent, regardless of sport, regardless of fitness. Women being higher earners, women being in control of things; that has created this ethos of women going: 'Well, I can do that.'"

to help push women's access to strength training even further.

"It should be a woman's choice if they want to train around men or not," she says. "It should be a choice that they want to train with women, not because they feel like they can't train with men.

Given all that progress, Campbell says she was disappointed by the recent Sydney Sweeney advert for US sport prediction market company Novig where the actor posed naked with a variety of sports equipment. Campbell admits she had not even heard of Sweeney before the uproar.

“[Some women] think they are going to touch a weight and they are going to look like a bodybuilder,” she says. “If that happens let me know how you do it because I’ve been trying for 10 years and still don’t look like any of these bodybuilders.”

"There's a lot of men in the gym that will come and spot you, cheer you on, and be impressed by what you're doing. There's got to be more of that. We've all got to come together and fight the good fight."

"As athletes in women's sport, we have to fight so hard to be seen on an equal playing field and to be given the respect that we deserve. The scary thing is the amount of people that would have agreed that was a good idea. The positive side is the uproar on social media has been fantastic. To see women taking back 'All the track girls get photographed for being stunning and their muscles are part of that'

Emily Campbell

Campbell's concern about the way social media can exaggerate issues in order to generate clicks or likes is influenced by her experience at the Tokyo Olympics. Campbell competed against Laurel Hubbard, the first openly transgender woman to compete at an Olympic Games, but found that the attention Hubbard's inclusion received took away from the event itself.

“In Tokyo, we had 10 incredible women, the best in the world, lined up to have a battle that day and see who came out on top,” she says. “The other issues, that weren’t really relevant, ended up overshadowing the fact that you had the best athletes in the world about to do this amazing thing.

“That’s what happens with social media and the gym. You focus on one issue that happened with one man. Apart from, actually, there were probably 10 beautiful stories that happened in the gym that day. Two girls helping each other out. Somebody hit a new personal best. Somebody helped correct the technique. But nobody would ever see what went on in the gym. They only see the issue that happened.”

After securing gold at this summer's Commonwealth Games, Campbell is turning her attention to a third Olympic appearance, confirming officially that she will attempt to qualify for Los Angeles 2028. In order to make it, she will have to be ranked as one of the top eight weightlifters in the world for her class.

“Everyone knows I love a challenge,” she quips. “So yes, I’m going to try and go to LA and enjoy these last years of weightlifting that I have left in me. It’s all guns blazing already. We’re in the trenches. It’s all going down.”

Strong influence: Campbell says she was struck by how many more girls were competing in weightlifting at the national championships. Les Mills

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Rough memories for Australia as Sandpapergate chafes again

A Test series in South Africa for first time since the cheating scandal that rocked Australian cricket means revisiting uncomfortable past, writes Gideon Haigh

Cameras: that's what sticks in Steve Smith's mind from eight years ago. Australia's calamitous tour of South Africa, which cost him the captaincy in a haze of infamy, Smith has largely blocked from his mind. But as he explained in an interview last month, the telltale flicker of shutters reminds him of the torrid press conference into which he walked, pale and teary, on returning to Sydney.

Smith was obliging to consent to the interview at all. For the Australian team in the interim, Sandpapergate has been a no-go zone. Now they are about to retrace their steps, with Tests in all three venues of their past ill-starred progress, the squad led by Smith's successor Pat Cummins appear resigned to questions revisiting their experiences.

Smith and Cummins are among five survivors of that lost patrol, with Mitchell Starc, Josh Hazlewood and Nathan Lyon the others; Matthew Renshaw was flown in as one of the replacements. The backroom staff has turned over; likewise every member of the Cricket Australia (CA) board.

Still, everyone involved in Australian cricket these past eight years has walked into the legacy of the incident – both the ensuing moral reckoning and the air of undispelled mystery about who knew exactly what.

Cricketers are actually better than most at dealing with the overhang of the past. They have to be. They must focus on what is before them. They must exclude extraneous thought. It's the rest of us who brood. Test match cricket lays down deep memories, and those of Cameron Bancroft surreptitiously slipping a scrap of sandpaper down his strides remain vivid.

One of the notable dimensions of events was that they reached Australia on a sleepy Sunday morning, having occurred too late for the morning newspapers, for the opining of pundits and the micro analysis of video.

All anyone had to go on was the clip of Bancroft's feigned insouciance, and his contrastingly awkward, you-tell-them-no-you-tell-them press conference with Smith. But this slotted into the context of a team whose confrontational airs and unapologetic rationales had for some years been testing public sympathy. The Aussies pushed it too far? David Warner was in on it? That, Australians seemed to say, would be right – then the kicker: not in our name.

With the tsunami of public indignation loosed on social media, the mainstream press struggled to keep up, while administrators were caught entirely flat-footed. By the afternoon, on an inevitably quiet news day, the Australian prime minister had weighed in, all before a minim of printers' ink had been spilled and an internal memo been sent. Within a week, Australia's two most valuable players, Smith and Warner, had joined Bancroft on a homeward flight, and their coach Darren Lehmann foreshadowed his exit.

In hindsight, CA did a fair job containing the on-field damage: the investigation was prompt if not exactly thorough; the players served their suspensions and worked their passages back; the teams they rejoined have achieved an almost spotless code of conduct record the past eight years.

On its own account, CA was arguably less successful. Its senior echelons had long been notable for continuity, embodied in CEO James Sutherland's 17-year tenure. Within four months of Sandpapergate, Sutherland had announced his retirement. The board's first independent

Fall from grace: Steve Smith's tearful press conference in 2018, when he was stripped of the Australia captaincy and suspended for a year. Peter Parks/AFP/Getty

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All of which adds up to a Test series with perhaps more bite than any in recent memory

chair David Peever initiated an organisational review by an external consultant so damning it cost him his job, and CA recently anointed David Boon its sixth chair in nine years.

Not all the turnover has been for the same reasons – CA's flirtation with private investment is the latest casus belli. Yet by damaging external confidence in the organisation and provoking mistrust among stakeholders, Sandpapergate left the game more brittle, less united. It is an odd time in cricket hereabouts, the left hand not knowing exactly what the right hand is doing.

Now, perhaps belatedly, the team faces scrutiny, including on its own docket. Last month it was announced that Cummins' men would admit cameras to the dressing room again for a fourth season of their popular fly-on-the-wall documentary The Test. The irony is that The Test began partly as a means of re-endearing the Australian team to their public after Sandpapergate. Now the wheel has turned full circle.

The Australians begin the series at Kingsmead, where they actually won in 2018, but also where tempers boiling over in a stairwell were captured on CCTV – the leaked footage of Warner having to be separated from Quinton de Kock not only added to the visitors' paranoia, but encouraged the crowds to throw out additional provocations.

All roads, inevitably, lead to Cape Town, where Australia won a T20 international two years after Sandpapergate to partly lift any curse on them there, but where they also lost Tests in 2009 and 2011.

All of which adds up to a Test series with perhaps more bite than any in recent memory, involving as it does the winner of the previous cycle of the World Test Championship and the leader of this one. Fans have had a long time to anticipate it too: bizarrely, when South Africa take the field on Friday, it will be their first home red-ball fixture for 641 days.

South Africa were the better team during the ODI preliminaries, taking out the series last week by two matches to one. They looked formidable; they may, ever so slightly, be favourites. Whatever the case, there will be cameras – lots of cameras.

Where to watch

South Africa v Australia

Sky Sports Cricket

First Test begins Friday, 8.30am

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[The NFL star who rejected Harvard] Jonathan Taylor wanted to be an astrophysicist for Nasa, writes Paddy von Behr

A

academic excellence often seems incompatible with sporting success. Those lucky few blessed with brains

and brawn tend to specialise early, so we nod approvingly at Frank Lampard's A\* in Latin GCSE or share viral videos of Manuel Akanji's frighteningly fast arithmetic. Before he became the world's most famous living scientist, Neil deGrasse Tyson was the unbeaten captain of his high-school wrestling team.

Jonathan Taylor is a little different. Towards the end of high school, when top football prospects typically juggle scholarship offers, he was eyeing up a career at Nasa and applied to study astrophysics at Harvard. Taylor got in, then turned them down. Now, a decade later, the Indianapolis Colts running back comes to London as one of the best players in the NFL.

As a child, Taylor was fascinated by outer space, which is not at all unusual, but the phase never passed. Instead of idolising Barry Sanders or Emmitt Smith, he looked up to Tyson (Neil deGrasse, not Mike), fascinated by his ability to clearly explain some of the universe's most complex concepts. While his friends played Madden on the Xbox, he dreamed about going into space.

In the US high-school system, a 4.0 grade point average (GPA) is straight As, a threshold that students can only exceed by taking optional, higher-level classes. Taylor attained a 4.1 GPA. He set his heart on Harvard University and got accepted. "It's like getting your PhD," he told the New York Times years later. "You can have the words 'Harvard graduate' stitched next to your name the rest of your life."

Yet as the application process progressed, he had a nagging thought: "What if I could play football in the prestigious Big Ten Conference? Would I be good enough?" Taylor first tried football age 12, only because his cousin Amani was playing, and he was a natural: speed, balance and the sort of attention to detail that comes naturally to a straight-A student. A prime example of what Tyson likes to call a “geek jock”.

He was a three-star recruit out of high school – a promising player, but not considered special. Top football colleges weren't scrapping for his signature, but Wisconsin were interested. The Badgers play in the Big Ten. Tim Murphy, the Harvard coach who was desperate for Taylor to join his team, warned the teenager,

"Don't be the guy that could have gone to Harvard," but his mind was soon made up. "Once I found out that [Wisconsin] was a top-20 academic institution [in the country], that kind of sealed the deal," Taylor said.

A teenage Taylor arrived at Wisconsin in 2017 as the fifth-string running back on the Badgers' roster, but that didn't last long. After turning heads in their pre-season camp he soon became a starter and hit the ground running, going on to become the first player in the history of top-tier college football to rush for at least 1,900 yards in three straight seasons and scored 50 touchdowns.

After he was selected by the Colts in the second round of the 2020 Draft, Taylor quickly translated that success to the NFL. In year two he led the league in rushing yards (1,811) and touchdowns (18) and was runner-up for Offensive Player of the Year, denied only by Cooper Kupp's historic Super Bowl-winning season with the Rams.

Last season he rediscovered that electric form. When Indianapolis travelled to Berlin to play the Atlanta Falcons in November, he torched them for

244 rushing yards

and three scores, including a scintillating 83-yard touchdown run, the longest in Colts history. At that point, 10 games into the season, he had managed 891 yards after contact with a defender. That was more than the total rushing yards of five entire teams: the Browns, Raiders, Steelers, Titans and Bengals.

The problem for Taylor is that the Colts have struggled to crack the play-offs – since one post-season game in his rookie year, the 27-year-old has never featured in the business end of the league and this year began badly too. Last weekend they edged past the Houston Texans to avoid the dreaded 0-3 start. In Tottenham today the Washington Commanders stand between them and a meaningful resurgence.

Taylor is the key protagonist: keep him quiet and you've got a chance; let him slice through you and you're in trouble.

Every off-season, players across the league vote for their best contemporaries and a definitive top 100 is compiled – Taylor had dropped out of the list altogether since his breakout year but returned at No 17 this summer.

"I'm telling you," John Settle, Taylor's running backs coach at Wisconsin, said a few years ago, "if he wasn't so good at this, he'd be working for Nasa right now. He's that smart." Maybe he will one day.

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Football was my refuge from mum being a soap celebrity

Oliver Holt, chief sports writer of the Daily Mail, on the beginnings of his lifelong obsession

When Eileen Derbyshire was in her mid-20s, searching for roles and still unsure whether she was going to make it as an actress, she worked as an usherette at a big cinema in Leicester Square and temped as a secretary in St John's Wood.

Then she came to a decision: she was going to pursue acting with everything she had. She left London and joined a travelling repertory company called The Century Theatre. She lived a peripatetic existence, touring the country with her fellow actors.

She performed a bewildering array of plays, living in caravans; she helped to assemble and dismantle the wooden auditorium every evening and embraced a life of bohemia. When she wasn't touring, she was chasing other theatre roles, often unsuccessfully.

So that she could maintain some sort of base, she moved back to live at home with her parents in Urmston, a quiet suburb out to the west of Manchester city centre. She kept all her letters of rejection from provincial theatres in Halifax and Oldham and Manchester in a file. There were 30 or 40, on headed notepaper, neatly typed.

'I found my escape on the terraces. My character and all its shortcomings were swallowed up in a surging, seething whole'

Eileen is 94 now. To the wider world she is better known as Emily Nugent, later Emily Bishop, of Coronation Street. For 55 years after those rejections, she had become a mainstay in one of the most popular and enduring television shows in British history. She was much loved and admired, recognised by fans of the show everywhere she went. But she was also my mum, and I was a shy kid who wanted to do anything I could to avoid that recognition.

I struggled with her celebrity. I had acne, I was not socially confident, I didn't like parties, I was self-conscious. None of those things mixed well with having a mum who everyone was looking at. It wasn't Beatlemania, but she was recognised everywhere we went and people stared at her or giggled with each other when we walked past,

or impersonated other Coronation Street characters when they saw her.

She was unfailingly polite. Most people were respectful and she knew how important fans of the programme were to her and her colleagues. She was always grateful when people came up to her and said how much they loved Coronation Street and how much enjoyment her character had given them.

I should have felt the same, but I didn't. I resented it. I didn't like the intrusion. I was embarrassed by it. I became morbidly skilled at noticing the moment Mum had been spotted by a fan: the glance that lingers a second longer than normal, the swivel of the head after she had

walked past, the whisper to a friend to let them know they had just spotted Emily. I developed a sixth sense for all of it. I hated it.

I knew the arguments. The people who loved Mum's character in Coronation Street, who wanted to meet the woman who played her, were also the people who paid her wages and meant I got a new pair of football boots at Christmas and a decent tennis racket.

But I didn't want the attention. I wanted the opposite. I wanted to disappear. And the thing that really allowed me to do that was going to watch football. Being part of a crowd. I found my escape on the terraces where my character and all its shortcomings were swallowed

up in a surging, swaying, seething whole. Nobody looked at you on the terraces. Nobody asked you awkward questions about why you didn't have a girlfriend. Nobody judged you for being uncool.

Right from the beginning I co-opted Mum into football duties now and again. She took me to my first game, a Manchester derby at Maine Road on 18 November 1972, when I was six. But Stockport County became my obsession. After a first game against Aldershot, I went to a couple more home games and then, in the 1979-80 season, to 20 of the 23 league games at Edgeley Park. I was all in. I bought a big, long sticker in the souvenir shop that read “Go,

'I wanted to disappear. The thing that really allowed me to do that was going to watch football': Oliver Holt at home, surrounded by football memorabilia.

The young Holt family: 'We were a tight three, Mum, Dad and me.'

Portrait by Tom Pilston

finals of the Uefa Cup in March 1979, I told her we had to turn up at the ticket office at Maine Road if I were to have any chance of getting one.

Go, Go County", and stuck it on the rear windscreen of my mum's Volkswagen Passat.

It was a school day and the ticket office at Maine Road closed at 5.30, so I knew it would be a close call. But I persuaded Mum to collect me after she'd finished filming at the Granada studios and take me back into Manchester. It meant more than two hours in the car for her after a long day at work, but I didn't care about that. So I waited outside the school gates. And I waited. And waited. Eventually, she showed up.

She was not entirely pleased about that. The sight of her arriving at the Granada Television studios in Quay Street with “Go, Go, Go County” plastered over the car caused a good deal of hilarity among her fellow actors.

She was my chauffeur when I was trying to get tickets for games, too. When City drew Borussia Mönchengladbach in the quarter-

On the street: Bernard Youens and Margot Bryant, who played Stan Ogden and Minnie Caldwell in Coronation Street, stand behind Oliver and his mum.

I leapt into the car and told her we had to hurry if we were to have any chance of making it to the ticket office in time. Mum was a woman of ineffable patience but this time her patience snapped. It turned out she had got stuck in traffic leaving Manchester and had tried to make up time in the second half of the journey. Not far from Macclesfield, the police pulled her over for speeding and gave her a lecture and a ticket of a different kind to the one I wanted.

At the end of the 1970s, Coronation Street was close to its peak. It was shown twice a week, with half-hour episodes on Mondays and Wednesdays, and it pulled in somewhere around 20 million viewers. I watched it, too. We were a tight three, Mum, Dad and me, and when The Street came on at 7.30pm, we were always ranged in front of the television, often with our evening meals on trays on our laps. It was unusual for anything to disrupt that routine.

Mum watched each episode intently. Now and again, she'd tell a story about something that had happened during the filming of a particular scene. It was usually a time that she had dried (forgotten her lines) or corpsed (been overcome by a fit of the giggles). Some of her colleagues set her off more than others.

Dad watched the show with a different eye. He was a great holder of grudges. If Mum had told him a story about how a certain actor or actress had done something that might have been even mildly irritating, Dad brought it up every time that actor's character appeared on the screen.

We went through a routine during most episodes where Dad would make a remark about an actor, Mum would say she regretted ever telling him the story, he'd harrumph about it, she'd tell him to be quiet so she could watch the programme and he'd stomp off to make her a cup of tea.

Mum was totally dedicated to her craft. One of our family rituals was that Dad would go through each of her scenes with her the night before filming. They'd rehearse her lines every evening at the kitchen table, Dad reading the parts of Alf Roberts or Rita Fairclough or Hilda Ogden, occasionally doing silly voices, and my mum honing her responses.

I was proud of her, obviously. I've always been proud of her. I've always admired how hard she worked and how she shunned the extraneous things that come with

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Oliver's five favourite English football grounds

1. Edgeley Park, Stockport

I love it not for its architectural splendour but for what it means to me. I can still gaze over to the seat where I sat with my dad the first time he took me. Going to Stockport's ground is about about belonging for me.

2. Craven Cottage, Fulham

The Johnny Haynes Stand is the most beautiful building in English football. So many stadiums look the same now, so any ground with a cottage in one corner is to be cherished.

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3. Anfield, Liverpool

The atmosphere has suffered a little from incursions of day-trippers and corporates but this is still the greatest cathedral in our game. To stare down at that pitch and think of all that has happened there makes it a place of magic.

4. Hill-Dickinson Stadium, Everton I'd put this just above the Tottenham Hotspur Stadium in my favourite new-builds. It has real character and its location, on the banks of the Mersey estuary, is stunning.

5. St James's Park, Exeter

Set in a natural amphitheatre, with the hulk of the Big Bank at one end, I love the character of this ground. It's a friendly club that has a reverence for its past. It's beautiful.

celebrity and concentrated entirely on her job and her family and a close circle of friends. She was in it for the acting, not the spin-offs.

I know how popular she was with the rest of the cast. I don't mean popular in that she was the life and soul of the party, but she was kind to her colleagues, young and old, and she was generous and unselfish. When Margot Bryant, who played Minnie Caldwell, fell ill and was hospitalised in south Manchester, others seemed to forget about her. Mum didn't.

As an adjunct to all of that, it was never lost on me that she was the breadwinner in our family at a time when that role was still regarded very much as a male domain.

\*\*\*

Some actors find anonymity in their character. Or escape. I think that was true for Mum. It allowed her to escape all the anxieties that had been bred in her by growing up during the Second World War. It allowed her to become someone else. Football did the same for me.

Some of Mum's memories are fading now but she is happier, in many ways, than she was ten years ago when she was floored by the sadness of seeing Dad struggle with Alzheimer's disease. The memories of Coronation Street have not left her. Nor the joy she felt in the collaboration between cast and crew.

She lives now in a wonderful home for retired actors and actresses and directors and musicians. Reproductions of old theatre programmes hang on the walls.

A couple of years ago, she told me a story about how, when she was in her twenties, her dad took her with him to buy her a dress from a shop in Deansgate in the heart of Manchester. She was committed to acting by then. She was just starting in Coronation Street and, as they were looking at the dress in the shop window, he said to her, “Eileen, does it never strike you as slightly odd that you are spending your life pretending to be someone you are not?”

She laughed at the recollection. She adored her father and it was one of her favourite stories. Now, there are times when she is, once more, someone who she is not. Sometimes, it feels as if she is playing a role again, and there is comfort in that. Sometimes, she does not recognise the 60-year-old man with grey hair and a slight limp who visits and brings his old greyhound along with him. If I'm preserved in her mind as the wide-eyed kid she took to his first football ground, then there is comfort in that, too.

Adapted from

Ninety-Two:

A Life in

Football

Grounds by

Oliver Holt,

which is

published by

Quercus

Thom

Callan-Riley

Many of the people walking through Bordeaux's main square are in a hurry. They're using Place Pey-Berland simply as a way to get somewhere – to a meeting at City Hall, perhaps, or a tour around the French city's infamous Cathédrale Saint-André. But as they cross the square, they might just see some angels passing, says Alexandra Siarri, the city's deputy mayor.

These angels move differently, Siarri says: “They possess a different speed, a different rhythm,” and in doing so they bring a certain kind of calm. That the angels she is talking about are skateboarders represents a remarkable turnaround for Bordeaux.

Previously, skateboarding was banned in public spaces across the city. Authorities tried to enforce this through fines of up to €70 (£60) a time and even made arrests. This process came to a head in 2016, when more than 1,000 tickets were issued and it was clear that the punitive measures weren't working. The city agreed to try a different approach and started to work with the skateboarders.

A process of mediation began, spearheaded by professional skateboarder Léo Valls, born and raised in Bordeaux. “As skaters, we had to put ourselves in the shoes of the people that were against us,” he says, “to understand that we could, in a way, be a nuisance, but remind them that we were also part of the city and we had to figure out how to live together in the same space.”

What Valls is talking about is “skate urbanism” – rather than advocating for more designated skateparks (often on the outskirts of the city), skate urbanism proposes the seamless integration of skateboarding into public space. Supporters say it’s not just because they want more places to skate; it’s about social interaction and finding creative ways to challenge increasingly polarised cities.

Bordeaux has developed from small interventions, such as allowing skating at specific times, to developing a city-wide strategy. Its holistic approach has made it one of the leading models of skate urbanism internationally.

Last weekend, Valls and city officials invited skateboarders, academics, architects and city planners from around the world to the Connect festival, to learn from the example of Bordeaux and share their experience of integrating skateboarding in their own cities. “Every city’s different,” says Valls. “There is no magic formula for what we did. It’s more like a philosophy you can bring to public policy.”

Ultimately it's about what public space is for. "As of now, cities have been constructed in a way that's very functional," says Siarri. "Everybody has their sort of section." Siarri's job is working out how to bring people together and create something more democratic. She believes skateboarding, which is many things at once – a sport, a lifestyle, an artform and a form of play – can help make this happen as it sits outside of the perceived restrictions of how people use public space.

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From banned to beloved: how skateboarding is shaping cities

Bordeaux adopted ‘skate urbanism’ to change perceptions of how to use public space and encourage social interaction – but it’s not for everyone

Gustav Eden, a leading figure in skate urbanism from Malmö, Sweden, likens skateboarders to the first dancers on the dance floor. If they get up and start moving around in expressive ways, others will follow.

Takahiro Yamazaki, an academic from the University of Tokyo, describes it as a form of rewilding – think of skateboarders as beavers – by which introducing a specific species can have an outsized effect on the whole ecosystem. Skateboarders can change the way other users occupy and think about public space, he says, and it can encourage more play, more imagination and more interaction with fellow users.

Even Tony Hawk, famed for spectacular feats in the air, is backing this movement. The Skatepark Project, a foundation started by Hawk to build large purpose-built facilities across the US, is shifting to include projects that create opportunities to skate in public spaces. This idea can, at times, seem utopian – introduce skateboarding and tackle society's ills – but it is not a case of “build it and they will come”. When designing for more interaction in public space, skate urbanists say they are thinking about what these meetings look like.

Richard Sennett, an eminent sociologist from the US, is less convinced. He has been studying cities for more than 50 years, is now in his eighties, sometimes walks with a cane and says he doesn't want skateboarders speeding towards him while moving through the city.

“It’s one of those clichés,” says Sennett, “that has really wrecked thinking about cities – [that] the more interaction between different kinds of activities, the better.” He wants to dispel the notion that any kind of social interaction is good interaction.

Skateboarders are like the first dancers on the dance floor: if they start moving, others will follow

Skate urbanism advocates argue that this is where the mediation comes in. At Connect, the conversation kept coming back to the philosophy of skate urbanism. It starts with community engagement, thinking about who is, or may be, excluded. “We’re talking about making it better for everybody, so we need everybody to take part in it,” says Raisa Abal, editor of Dolores Magazine, a publication dedicated to showcasing women and gender minorities in skateboarding.

These conversations ultimately inform the design, says Dr Neftalie Williams from The Skatepark Project. They can surface diverse experiences of how people use and feel in public space. “Skateboarding culture can be emancipatory,” says Williams, “but you have to know and understand and want to wield it in a way to have that type of outcome.”

Meeting of minds: The Connect festival in Bordeaux brought together skaters, academics, city planners and more, including Raisa Abal (right), who edits a skateboarding magazine. Cyril Zannettacci

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[Full Time] Sky Bet League One | P | W | D | L | F | A | Gd | Pts | Plymouth | 9 | 5 | 1 | 3 | 16 | 11 | 5 | 16 | Bradford | 8 | 5 | 1 | 2 | 8 | 5 | 3 | 16 | Huddersfield | 8 | 4 | 3 | 1 | 14 | 7 | 7 | 15 | Sheff Wed | 7 | 4 | 2 | 1 | 13 | 6 | 7 | 14 | Stockport Cty | 8 | 4 | 1 | 3 | 17 | 10 | 7 | 13 | Cambridge Utd | 8 | 3 | 4 | 1 | 13 | 11 | 2 | 13 | Reading | 8 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 17 | 10 | 7 | 12 | Burton Albion | 9 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 14 | 15 | -1 | 12 | AFC Wimbledon | 8 | 3 | 3 | 2 | 6 | 8 | -2 | 12 | Oxford Utd | 6 | 3 | 2 | 1 | 13 | 7 | 6 | 11 | Leyton Orient | 8 | 3 | 1 | 4 | 13 | 11 | 2 | 10 | Wycombe | 8 | 2 | 4 | 2 | 13 | 16 | -3 | 10 | Stevenage | 7 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 11 | 8 | 3 | 9 | Leicester | 7 | 2 | 3 | 2 | 9 | 11 | -2 | 9 | Blackpool | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 13 | 13 | 0 | 8 | Luton | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 12 | 14 | -2 | 8 | Mansfield | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 10 | 13 | -3 | 8 | Barnsley | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 7 | 12 | -5 | 8 | Bromley | 7 | 2 | 2 | 3 | 8 | 18 | -10 | 8 | Notts County | 7 | 1 | 4 | 2 | 7 | 9 | -2 | 7 | Doncaster | 7 | 1 | 3 | 3 | 8 | 9 | -1 | 6 | MK Dons | 7 | 0 | 6 | 1 | 8 | 10 | -2 | 6 | Peterborough | 8 | 1 | 2 | 5 | 4 | 13 | -9 | 5 | Wigan | 7 | 1 | 1 | 5 | 5 | 12 | -7 | 4 | Burton Albion | 1 | Huddersfield | 3 | Leyton Orient | 0 | Plymouth | 2 | Reading | 1 | Bradford | 1 |

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Sky Bet League Two | P | W | D | L | F | A | Gd | Pts | Salford City | 9 | 5 | 1 | 3 | 13 | 10 | 3 | 16 | Barnet | 7 | 4 | 3 | 0 | 17 | 10 | 7 | 15 | Crewe | 9 | 3 | 6 | 0 | 11 | 7 | 4 | 15 | Cheltenham | 9 | 4 | 3 | 2 | 16 | 14 | 2 | 15 | Bristol Rovers | 9 | 5 | 0 | 4 | 14 | 14 | 0 | 15 | York | 8 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 16 | 10 | 6 | 14 | Walsall | 8 | 3 | 5 | 0 | 11 | 5 | 6 | 14 | Chesterfield | 9 | 4 | 2 | 3 | 15 | 12 | 3 | 14 | Grimsby | 9 | 3 | 4 | 2 | 13 | 10 | 3 | 13 | Gillingham | 9 | 3 | 4 | 2 | 11 | 9 | 2 | 13 | Rochdale | 9 | 4 | 1 | 4 | 10 | 11 | -1 | 13 | Tranmere | 9 | 2 | 5 | 2 | 12 | 12 | 0 | 11 | Swindon | 9 | 3 | 2 | 4 | 9 | 13 | -4 | 11 | Shrewsbury | 9 | 3 | 2 | 4 | 9 | 14 | -5 | 11 | Newport County | 9 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 12 | 12 | 0 | 10 | Accrington | 9 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 13 | 14 | -1 | 10 | Rotherham | 9 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 11 | 12 | -1 | 10 | Fleetwood Town | 9 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 9 | 10 | -1 | 10 | Colchester | 8 | 2 | 4 | 2 | 10 | 12 | -2 | 10 | Exeter | 9 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | -1 | 9 | Oldham | 8 | 2 | 1 | 5 | 9 | 13 | -4 | 7 | Northampton | 7 | 1 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 6 | -3 | 6 | Port Vale | 7 | 1 | 2 | 4 | 3 | 9 | -6 | 5 | Crawley Town | 7 | 1 | 1 | 5 | 6 | 13 | -7 | 4 | Accrington | 2 | Cheltenham | 0 | Chesterfield | 4 | Tranmere | 2 | Crewe | 3 | Bristol Rovers | 1 | Exeter | 1 | Rotherham | 0 | Gillingham | 0 | Newport County | 0 | Grimsby | 1 | Shrewsbury | 2 | Rochdale | 1 | Swindon | 0 | Salford City | 1 | Fleetwood Town | 0 | FA WOMEN'S SUPER LEAGUE

Man Utd Women 1 Liverpool FC Women

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[Other results] FOOTBALL

UEFA NATIONS LEAGUE—A3: Croatia 0 England 7, Spain L Czech Republic L. B1: North Macedonia L Scotland L, Switzerland L Slovenia L. C1: Belarus 4 San Marino 0, Finland 2 Albania 1. C4: Estonia 1 Luxembourg 0, Iceland 3 Bulgaria 0.

EFL TROPHY SOUTHERN—Group D: Colchester 1 Luton 1 (Luton win 4-3 on penalties).

WILLIAM HILL SCOTTISH—Ch'ship: Livingston 1 Ayr 2, Morton 1 Raith 2, Partick 3 Arbroath 0. League 1: Airdrieonians 1 Montrose 0, East Fife 0 East Kilbride 3, Hamilton L Peterhead L, Queen of South 4 Cove Rangers 3, Ross County 4 Alloa 1. League 2: Annan Athletic 0 Stirling 1, Dumbarton 2 Forfar 1, Elgin 6 Clyde 2, Spartans 0 Kelty Hearts 2, Stranraer 0 Edinburgh City 0.

ENTERPRISE NATIONAL LEAGUE: Aldershot 1 Carlisle 3, Barrow 2 Wealdstone 1, Boreham Wood 3 Altrincham 1, Eastleigh 1 Woking 3, Gateshead 1 Worthing 2, Harrogate Town 3 Hornchurch 0, Hartlepool 0 Tamworth 1, Kidderminster 1 Sutton Utd 1, Solihull Moors 0 FC Halifax 2, Southend 3 AFC Fylde 1, Yeovil 6 Boston Utd 0.

NORTHERN LEAGUE—Prem: Bamber Bridge 2 Quorn 4, Hyde Utd 2 Stockton Town 1, Lancaster City 2 Ilkeston Town 1, Redcar Athletic 3 Alfreton Town 1, Warrington Rylands 4 Emley AFC 1, Workington 1 Cleethorpes Town 1.

SOUTHERN LEAGUE PREM— Central: Leamington 4 Hitchin Town 0, Leighton Town 2 Peterborough Sports 4, Rushall Olympic 5 Needham Market 3, Stourbridge 0 Racing Club Warwick 1, .

ISTHMIAN PREM: Burgess Hill Town 4 Maldon & Tiptree 1, Lewes 1 Whitehawk 0, Ramsgate 2 Carshalton Ath 3, Welling 1 AFC Whyteleafe 0.

SOUTHERN LEAGUE PREM—South: Poole Town 3 Evesham Utd 1, Yate Town 3 Frome Town 3.

EMIRATES FA CUP—3rd qualifying rd: AFC Rushden & Diamonds 2 Braintree Town 1, Barton Town 1 Chorley 4, Bedford Town 2 Wingate & Finchley 2, Brackley 0 Chelmsford 2, Brentwood Town 3 Dag & Red 1, Bury FC 2 Bromsgrove Sporting 1, Bury Town 1 Spalding Utd 1, Buxton 0 South Shields 2, Cambridge City 1 Alvechurch 2, Chesham Utd 4 Real Bedford 3, Cray Wanderers 3 Chippenham 0, Crowborough Athletic 1 Wimborne Town 2, Dorking Wanderers 1 Chatham Town 0, Ebbsfleet United 1 Sholing 2, Gainsborough Trinity 2 Anstey Nomads 3, Guiseley 1 Bradford P A 0, Hanwell Town 1 Dover 2, Harborough Town 3 St Albans 2, Kettering 1 Worcester 3, Leatherhead 1 Hanworth Villa 0, Leiston 3 Coventry Utd 1, Macclesfield FC 2 Scarborough Athletic 2, Marine 2 Warrington Town 0, Morecambe 3 Darlington 0, Oxford City 6 Enfield Town 1, Plymouth Parkway 2 Horsham 1, Redditch Utd 0 Berkhamsted 2, Salisbury FC 5 Dulwich Hamlet 0, Sheppey Utd 0 Chertsey Town 2, Spennymoor Town 4 Chester FC 1, Stafford Rangers 1 Halesowen Town 1, Tadley Calleva 2 Dartford 1, Thame Utd 0 Eastbourne Borough 1, Tonbridge Angels 0 Torquay 1, Trafford 2 Atherton Collieries 2, Truro City 4 Cirencester 0, Uxbridge 3 Hungerford Town 1, Waymouth 1 SE Dons 5, Workspop Town 0 FC United of Manchester 3, Mulbarton Wanderers 1 Gloucester 2.

CYMRU PREMIER: Airbus UK Broughton 3 Trefelin BGC 0, Ammanford 2 Holywell Town 1, Briton Ferry 1 Colwyn Bay 0, Caernarfon Town 0 Barry Town United 1, Connah's Quay Nomads 1 Penybont 0, Haverfordwest County 0 Flint Town United 1, Llandudno 0 Cardiff Met Uni 1, The New Saints FC 9 Cambrian United 0.

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GOLF

DP WORLD TOUR ALFRED DUNHILL LINKS CHAMPIONSHIP (St. Andrews, Carnoustie & Kingsbarns) –3rd rnd (Gbr & Irl unless stated, Par 72): 198 C Jarvis (Rsa) 66 67 65, 200 A Meronk (Pol) 71 66 63, M Jordan 69 65 66, 201 T Detry (Bel) 70 66 65, 202 N Noergaard (Den) 70 65 67, J Skov Olesen (Den) 70 69 63, 203 S Straka (Aut) 68 71 64, 204 O Schniederjans (USA) 69 66 69, M Fitzpatrick 68 70 66, R MacIntyre 71 65 68, C Syme 70 67 67, C Hill 68 71 65, J Luis Ballester (Spa) 68 68 68, S Soederberg (Swe) 70 67 67, J. C. Ritchie (Rsa) 72 65 67, R Repetto (Spa) 70 64 70, 205 M Lindberg (Swe) 67 70 68, H Du Plessis (Rsa) 67 70 68, M. J. Daffue (Rsa) 66 68 71, M Stewart 65 71 69.

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MOTOR RACING

FIA FORMULA 1 BAHRAIN GRAND PRIX (Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia) – Qualifying: 1 M Verstappen (Ned) Red Bull 1min 35.130secs, 2 L Hamilton (Gbr) Ferrari 1:35.428, 3 I Hadjar (Fra) Red Bull 1:35.558, 4 K Antonelli (Ita) Mercedes GP 1:35.631, 5 C Leclerc (Mon) Ferrari 1:35.666, 6 L Norris (Gbr) McLaren 1:35.757, 7 O Piastri (Aus) McLaren 1:35.762, 8 G Russell (Gbr) Mercedes GP 1:35.871, 9 P Gasly (Fra) Alpine 1:37.210, 10 G Bortoleto (Bra) Audi 1:37.673, 11 L Lawson (Nzl) RB 1:37.023, 12 F Alonso (Spa) Aston Martin 1:37.220.

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MOTORCYCLING

MOTOGP GRAND PRIX OF JAPAN (Motegi, Japan) – Qualifying: MotoGP: 1 J Martin (Spa) Aprilia 1 min 42.371secs, 2 M Marquez (Spa) Ducati 1:42.481, 3 P Acosta (Spa) KTM 1:42.493, 4 M Beztecchi (Ita) Aprilia 1:42.530, 5 A Marquez (Spa) Ducati 1:42.546, 6 F Di Giannantonio (Ita) Ducati 1:42.628, 7 E Bastianini (Ita) KTM 1:42.669, 8 R Fernandez (Spa) Aprilia 1:42.741, 9 D Moreira (Bra) Honda 1:42.916, 10 J Zarco (Fra) Honda 1:42.918. Moto2: 1 I Guevara (Spa) Boscoscuro 1 min 46.851secs. Moto3: 1 D Almansa (Spa) KTM 1 min 54.572secs.

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RUGBY LEAGUE

BETFRED SUPER LEAGUE GRAND FINAL: Warrington L Wakefield L.

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RUGBY UNION

GUINNESS PREMIERSHIP – Bristol 41 Northampton 26, Gloucester 48 Harlequins 0, Newcastle L Leicester L.

UNITED RUGBY CHAMPIONSHIP – Dragons 38 Scarlets 26, Glasgow 33 Ulster 33, Lions 35 Ospreys 19, Munster L Blue Bulls L, Sharks 26 Leinster 20.

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Fixtures

Kick off 7.45 unless stated

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TODAY

UEFA NATIONS LEAGUE A - GROUP 2

Greece v Germany (7.45), Netherlands v Serbia (7.45).

LEAGUE A - GROUP 4

Portugal v Norway (7.45), Wales v Denmark (7.45).

LEAGUE B - GROUP 3

Kosovo v Austria (5.00), Rep of Ireland v Israel (7.45).

LEAGUE D - GROUP 1

Malta v Andorra (5.00).

LEAGUE D - GROUP 2

Azerbaijan v Lithuania (2.00).

WOMEN'S SUPER LEAGUE

Aston Villa v Crystal Palace (2.00), Brighton & Hove Albion v Charlton (2.00), Everton v Birmingham City (2.00), Man City v Arsenal (4.30), Tottenham Hotspur v London City Lionesses (2.00), West Ham v Chelsea (2.00).

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RUGBY LEAGUE

Betfred Championship Play-Off Grand Final: London Broncos v Doncaster (3.00)

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RUGBY UNION

Gallagher Premiership: Saracens v Sale (3.00)

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TOMORROW

UEFA NATIONS LEAGUE A - GROUP 1

France v Belgium, Italy v Turkey.

LEAGUE B - GROUP 2

Northern Ireland v Georgia, Ukraine v Hungary.

LEAGUE B - GROUP 4

Bosnia-Herzegovina v Poland, Romania v Sweden.

LEAGUE C - GROUP 2

Cyprus v Latvia (5.00), Montenegro v Armenia.

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TUESDAY 6 OCTOBER

UEFA NATIONS LEAGUE A - GROUP 3

Croatia v Spain, England v Czech Republic.

LEAGUE B - GROUP 1

Scotland v Slovenia, Switzerland v North Macedonia.

LEAGUE C - GROUP 1

Albania v San Marino, Belarus v Finland.

LEAGUE C - GROUP 3

Kazakhstan v Faroe Islands (3.00), Moldova v Slovakia.

LEAGUE C - GROUP 4

Estonia v Iceland, Luxembourg v Bulgaria.

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WEDNESDAY 7 OCTOBER

INTERNATIONAL MATCH

Argentina v Benin (12midnight).

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[THURSDAY 8 OCTOBER] GOLF (UNTIL SUNDAY)

DP World Tour Open de Espana presented by Madrid (Club de Campo Villa de Madrid, Madrid, Spain)

USPGA Tour Baycurrent Classic (Yokohama Country Club Yokohama, Japan)

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FRIDAY 9 OCTOBER

SKY BET CHAMPIONSHIP

West Ham v QPR (8.00).

Kick off 3.00 unless stated

RUGBY UNION

Gallagher Premiership: Leicester v Gloucester (7.45)

United Rugby Championship: Dragons v Ospreys (7.45),

Glasgow v Connacht (7.45)

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[SATURDAY 10 OCTOBER] PREMIER LEAGUE

Arsenal v Leeds (12.30), Aston Villa v Brentford, Chelsea v AFC Bournemouth, Ipswich v Fulham, Man Utd v Tottenham Hotspur (5.30), Sunderland v Brighton.

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SKY BET CHAMPIONSHIP

Blackburn v Cardiff, Bolton v Stoke, Charlton v Bristol City (12.30), Derby v Wrexham, Middlesbrough v Wolverhampton, Preston North End v Millwall, Sheff Utd v Lincoln City, Swansea v Norwich (12.30), Watford v Burnley, West Brom v Birmingham (12.30). SKY BET LEAGUE ONE

Bradford v Leyton Orient, Cambridge Utd v Blackpool, Doncaster v Burton Albion, Huddersfield v Sheff Wed, Leicester v Peterborough, Mansfield v Bromley, Milton Keynes Dons v Reading, Notts County v Oxford Utd (12.30), Plymouth v AFC Wimbledon (12.30), Stevenage v Wigan, Stockport County v Barnsley, Wycombe v Luton.

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SKY BET LEAGUE TWO

Bristol Rovers v Barnet, Cheltenham v Salford City, Crawley Town v Chesterfield, Fleetwood Town v Walsall, Newport County v Colchester, Oldham v Accrington Stanley (12.30), Port Vale v Grimsby, Rotherham v Gillingham, Shrewsbury v Exeter, Swindon v Crewe (12.30), Tranmere v Rochdale, York v Northampton.

WILLIAM HILL SCOTTISH PREMIERSHIP

Dundee Utd v Hibernian, Falkirk v Dundee, Hearts v St Mirren, Rangers v Kilmarnock.

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RUGBY UNION

International Match: New Zealand v Australia (8.10)

Gallagher Premiership: Northampton v Bath (3.05), Saracens v Bristol (5.30)

United Rugby Championship: Blue Bulls v Lions (12.30), Leinster v Cardiff Rugby (7.45), Scarlets v Benetton Treviso (5.30), Stormers v Sharks (3.00), Ulster v Munster (5.30), Zebre v Edinburgh (3.00)

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[SUNDAY 11 OCTOBER] PREMIER LEAGUE

Crystal Palace v Nottm Forest (2.00), Hull v Everton (2.00), Liverpool v Man City (4.30).

SKY BET CHAMPIONSHIP

Southampton v Portsmouth (12.00).

WILLIAM HILL SCOTTISH PREMIERSHIP

Aberdeen v St Johnstone (2.00), Motherwell v Celtic (12.00).

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RUGBY UNION

Gallagher Premiership: Exeter v Newcastle (3.00), Sale v Harlequins (3.00)

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[Next week] Sackcloth and gunge: City's only suitable sanctions

Eight-time Premier League champions need swift, sharp punishment – only most punitive will do

Giles Smith

Demotion! A swinging fine!

Demotion plus a swinging fine!

A crippling points deduction plus

demotion plus a swinging fine!

As the scale of the alleged con perpetrated by Manchester City on the Premier League between 2009 and 2018 emerges, these are the kinds of sanctions people are screaming for. Robust suggestions, you'd have to say – and predictably so, given the extent of the claimed deception, and the emotions involved. But they're not very imaginative, are they? Quite boring, actually.

By contrast, this column's bespoke package of punitive measures for City is dynamic, strategically targeted and thoughtfully designed to satisfy both those with a vested interest and the neutrals who just want to see justice done but quite like it when justice comes with a bit of a twist.

Best of all, it's ready to roll out now, or in 25 years, or whenever the oncoming carnival of legal obfuscation has finished grinding tediously past us in the direction of a conclusion.

Also, unlike the typical suggestions, our artisanal approach to payback for the Abu Dhabi-backed super-club scrupulously avoids punishing its game-going fans, surely among the most obviously innocent parties in all of this.

Yes, even the ones who are in Oasis. And yes, even the ones who sang such Etihad staples as “We’re so rich it’s unbelievable”, “Are we too rich for you?”, “Going down with a billion in the bank” and “We’ll buy your club”. Because, as unsavoury as that choral-work might have been at the time, it would clearly be unreasonable now, in the light of subsequent developments, to deem it creative accounting and start penalising it.

Oh, and neither are we inclined to take it out on City's players, past or present, who, after all, probably had no idea what was going on upstairs at their club, rarely talked to their agents about any of this financial stuff and just took the money and played, right?

Nevertheless, penance must be paid on the field to some degree: the human yearning for closure seems to demand it. And that's why our putative sanctions include one season in which the team is obliged to appear in sackcloth shirts.

Pheroras

kneels in

sackcloth

before his

brother Herod.

I can imagine

the same

happening in

the Etihad.

Sepia Times

Now, these can, by all means, feature terrace-friendly leisure detailing because, as we say, we're not out to spoil the fans' fun, of which replica kit-wearing is such a significant part. But we do feel it would be appropriate if, for at least a limited period, the players were seen to carry the burden of City's alleged wrongdoing in a quite itchy way, with horsehair anthem jackets also an option.

But naturally, it's the board and owners who bear the brunt of our proposals, which include, first and foremost, making them take part in an extensive open-top bus tour, accompanied by the trophies garnered in this period, with an instruction to drop them off at the clubs that would have won them otherwise.

But not the Community Shield of 2018. City beat Chelsea to win that one, and given Chelsea's own imaginative book-keeping practices in this period, this match should probably now be regarded as the only truly pure football contest of this whole era. So the City board can keep that one, along with our congratulations.

But we're saying that, for a minimum of three seasons, matchday dining in the Etihad boardroom area should be set to a continuous loop of Oasis's Stop Crying Your Heart Out at conversation-drowning volume, with a random gunge-dump from a tank in the ceiling at every game. We also propose, as a suspended sanction, a pre-match mix-and-mingle opportunity with Liam Gallagher, because it's always good to have a further threat level to go to.

Meanwhile, seats in the directors' box are to be replaced with splintery benches, and one lucky season ticket-holder per game gets a dedicated five-minute slot to pelt the box with pre-approved items, on a sliding scale as follows: first season, rotting vegetable matter; second season, paint-soaked bean bags; third season, Haribo products.

And only after that, maybe, do we start thinking about demotion, a crippling points deduction and a swinging fine.

Seems like enough to you? This is an epochal moment for the Premier League. We need to get this right.

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Europe's richest horse race... and cheers to Saracens' wine expert

Bahrain Grand

Prix is in Malaysia

(yes, really), while

the international

football may never

end. By Patrick Kidd

One of the oddest stories last week was that Brendan Venter, who many thought was Saracens' director of rugby, has a new job title. The South African is instead to be called their "head of rugby culture and wine consultant". This, it was suggested, would get him out of having to fulfil his media obligations.

Instead of speaking to the press post-match, Venter said he would invite them to a wine-tasting and answer questions over a glass or two. Sounds like a win-win to me. After opening their season with a 40-38 win in Leicester, Saracens take on Sale Sharks today (TNT Sports 1, 3pm). Sale are captained by Ernst van Rhyn, though Venter will only be talking earnestly about vin blanc.

Is there a risk of international football fatigue? England play their fourth match in 11 days when they face Czech Republic at Wembley (Tuesday, ITV1, 7.45pm). Scotland host Slovenia (BBC Two, same time), while Wales must beat Denmark to move off the bottom of their Uefa Nations League group (Today, BBC Two, 7.45pm). If that's not enough, another batch of four matches will be along in mid-November.

Britain's women, meanwhile, are seeking a place at next year's World Cup in Brazil. Sarina Wiegman has dropped Ella Toone and Chloe Kelly, stalwarts of recent England sides, from her squad to face Greece in a two-legged play-off (Friday, ITV1, 5.30pm). Wales are in Albania, Scotland go to the Czech Republic and Northern Ireland host Portugal (Friday, BBC iPlayer, 5, 6 and 7pm).

Compared with some Group 1 horse races, the Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe is almost a newcomer – The Derby was first held in 1780, while France's most celebrated Flat race is little more than a century old – but it does carry Europe's richest purse, with almost £2.5m going to the winner. Last year's winner, Daryz, is the favourite, but no male horse has won successive Arcs since 1978 (Today, ITV1, 1pm).

Jannik Sinner won the first five Masters events of the tennis year but seems unlikely to attend the next one, in Shanghai, after withdrawing from last week's China Open in Beijing thanks to a niggling knee injury. He could soon lose his No 1 ranking to Alexander Zverev, who has fewer points to defend in what's left of this season (starts Wednesday, Sky Sports Tennis, 5am).

Kimi Antonelli, Sinner's fellow Italian, hasn't been on pole position in a grand prix for five races but he still has a lead of 66 points in the Formula One drivers' championship. The circus rolls on to Bahrain this weekend. Actually, they're in Malaysia because of the war in the Middle East but branding is everything so Bahrain still gets its name on the trophy. Will Antonelli? (Today, Sky Sports F1, 8am).

THE OBSERVER

04|10|26

Tune in, log on

Seán O'Hagan: from Deadheads to tech bros

Secrets and lies William Boyd on the CIA's original culture wars

Rebel singer Killian Fox meets Lankum's Radie Peat

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Agenda

The sharpest writing every Sunday for arts, science, books and ideas

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Agenda 2-7

\- In Real Life Evan Moffitt visits Amy Winehouse's library; Stephen Armstrong finds a traditional joiner; Ella Katz stands up for a social club; and Jude Rogers goes GaGaia for the Alternative Miss World pageant

  • The grid A new exhibition dives into the art of swimming pools
  • Interview David Byrne on human ingenuity and filming his latest tour

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Critics 20-29

\- Kadish Morris meets pioneering photographer Lorna Simpson

  • Susannah Clapp sees Simon Russell Beale dazzle as Liberace
  • Laura Cumming enjoys the Riviera at the Royal Academy
  • Wendy Ide is disappointed by Tom Cruise vehicle Digger

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Features 8-19

\- Cover story Alex Ferguson's Games of My Life charts his career in 21 matches. He talks to Paul Hayward about life, love and football

  • Interview Killian Fox meets Radie Peat, who with Lankum and her new solo album is spearheading an Irish folk revival
  • Essay Seán O'Hagan on how the Grateful Dead and their tech pioneer fans anticipated our digital age
  • John Naughton on Meta's Muse

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Books 30-37

\- William Boyd revisits Who Paid the Piper?, an exposé of CIA meddling from Frances Stonor Saunders

  • Rachel Sylvester reviews Gordon Brown's The Future Starts With Us
  • Sarah Moss on Stations from Louise Kennedy, author of Trespasses
  • Kitty Empire reviews children's books for the spooky season

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Puzzles & Television 38-48

\- Everyman crossword, sudoku, Gemelo, chess, guess the picture, cinema connect, Lexipedia quiz and Goldilocks crossword

  • The week's television and radio highlights
  • Barbara Ellen on the return of The Celebrity Traitors

Follow us on Instagram @ObsNewReview; email us at review@observer.co.uk

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Contributors

Paul Hayward (p8) is an award-winning sports writer for The Observer. He has co-written books with Alex Ferguson, Bobby Robson and Kevin Sinfield.

Kadish Morris (p20) is a critic, editor, poet and regular contributor to The Observer. She won the Eric Gregory prize for poetry in 2020.

Sarah Moss (p34) lives in Dublin where she teaches creative writing. Her recent books include the memoir My Good Bright Wolf and the novel Ripeness.

Killian Fox (p12) is a prize-winning journalist and editor who writes for The Observer on subjects including art, food, music, photography, and graphic novels.

William Boyd (p30) is a novelist and screenwriter. Cold Sunset, the third volume of his Cold War-set Gabriel Dax spy trilogy, was published last month.

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The big picture

Lee Martin finds an oasis in the claustrophobic crush of Notting Hill Carnival in the early 1990s

It couldn't really be from any other time or place. The photographer Lee Martin is unsure of the exact year but you can tell from the sunglasses and the baggy ikat trousers, the shell beads and the buttoned-up shirts that we are in early-1990s rave territory here. The framing and colour scheme feel appropriate to the era, with the faded pink and blue building exteriors adding to the general air of trippiness. Even the way

the guy on the first-floor balcony is dancing seems to place us at a very particular moment in British cultural history.

The photograph appears in Martin's new book Party & Protest London 1990s, which intersperses images of demonstrations – against the criminal justice bill, Margaret Thatcher's poll tax and other outrages – with scenes of communal revelry. These are the kinds of situations that Martin, who was

in his late 20s and fresh out of a postgraduate photography diploma (he now works as a picture editor at The Observer), seemed to stumble into whenever he took his camera for a walk. “Invariably, wherever I went, it was either a protest, a festival or a rave,” he recalls.

On this occasion it was the Notting Hill Carnival in, Martin reckons, 1993 or 1994.

"You go into this madness of crushed bodies and you get a little bit claustrophobic," he says of a typical carnival experience. "Sometimes you [end up in] a cul-de-sac and suddenly there's a sound system and people are letting rip. And that's what's happened here. I'd almost given up for the day because I was getting too hassled, too squeezed, and then I found myself in this blissful little oasis where people had room to dance – or they made room by getting up on walls and balconies."

He recalls some of the revellers urging him to get up and join them, but Martin demurred.

"The guy dancing on the balcony didn't stop for a minute. I think he was oblivious to everything apart from what was going on in his own head. As my partner said to me the other day: 'Everybody knew a bloke like that.' Killian Fox

Party & Protest London 1990s by Lee Martin is published by Café Royal Books

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[In Real Life] Observations & scenes from the world beyond your phone screen

THE ART WORLD Amy's library

The streets of Camden in north London are a shrine to Amy Winehouse. The late singer's painted face surveys the canal

waters from brick walls storeys-

high. If you want to get close to the

real-world “Valerie”, though, you’ll

have better luck at a flat on Chelsea

Embankment in the centre of the

capital, where more than 400 of

the books the performer owned are

on display at the Nicoletta Fiorucci

Foundation. Or, nearly; the library,

assembled by the artist Alex Margo

Arden, comprises volumes of the

same age, edition and condition as

those Winehouse owned, though

none of them were actually ever in

her possession. Arden calls them

“parallel objects”.

On a recent afternoon, Arden, 32, greets me at the landing of the flat-cum-gallery with a broad smile. Neck up, she is a vision of film noir glamour gone slightly blurry: cherry red lips, dark cat-eye liner and drawn-on beauty spots. Neck down, a frosted cupcake: frilly pink collar and pink halter, pink waitress apron, pink fishnet stockings and pink Adidas trainers.

Arden spotted many of the books in the online catalogue for the 2021 Beverly Hills auction of Winehouse's personal effects, though some of the pictures were so pixelated that “forensic” analysis was required to work out the titles on their spines. Others she found lurking in the background of tour photographs and fashion editorials shot in Winehouse's London home.

Most of the volumes are out-of-print paperbacks with glossy, candy bright covers. They have little resale value, so Arden struggled to track them down online. There are themes: books about Hollywood (biographies of Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, Dean Martin, Alfred Hitchcock); about music (Frank Sinatra, Bob Marley, Peggy Lee); about gangsters (Ronnie Kray); and a few literary choices: Mikhail Bulgakov's Master and Margarita, Tom Wolfe's The Bonfire of the Vanities, and Jean Rhys's Wide Sargasso Sea. We will never know whether Hilary Mantel's Beyond Black inspired the title of Winehouse's multi-platinum album Back to Black. I wonder, too, whether her music was influenced by her apparent love of Vladimir Nabokov, or sudoku.

Arden knows Winehouse's discography by heart. The singer was a larger-than-life figure when Arden was growing up in Croydon, south London, her adolescence framed by the albums Frank (2003) and the posthumous Lioness: Hidden Treasures (2011). "I don't trust anyone who's not a fan of Amy Winehouse," she says. Her favourite song is "definitively Love Is a Losing Game".

I ask Arden if she picked up her cat-eye makeup from Winehouse. "I don't think I do it like her, do you?" she replies, though they use the same eyeliner. It's there, lying in a vitrine, along with immaculate blush pads and compacts, some of them long discontinued. Like the books, Arden matched them to make-up she found in photographs of Winehouse.

Because her “music and likeness are endlessly being monetised. There’s deliberately none of her face, none of her music” in the show, Arden says. That may be, but we both can sense Amy in the air. Diffusers throughout the gallery dispense a fragrance that Arden says Winehouse most likely wore. It smells floral, with a hint of vanilla.

Arden has titled the exhibition Nothing Personal. But it's paradoxical that all these imitations seem to bring you closer to the star than the genuine articles. There's nothing mythical about the eyelash curler or the Sophie Dahl magazine covers hanging above the gallery's fireplace, which Winehouse also apparently hung above her own hearth alongside portraits of her family. The star was a fangirl, too.

Slate grey light streams in off the Thames. The sky is just beginning to sing an October song. Arden points out a stack of jigsaw puzzles that Winehouse owned. "She really was into mindfulness – she went through a recovery programme," she says.

We turn to a card showing an elderly married couple, which Mark Ronson and Adele brought to Winehouse's 25th birthday party. The singer never showed up, later telling the press she felt “too ugly” from a relapse. Arden found the original photographic negative of the couple, made the card from scratch and forged the signatures. “She never received this card,” Arden says. “It was meant to be humorous, but as time passes, it’s like: Mark Ronson and Adele are still alive. They get to grow old.” Evan Moffitt

Illustrations

by Oscar Ingham

THE WORKING LIFE

I came, I saw

lot of times,

someone will

ring and say can I

speak to Jack," says

a grinning Ben

Naylor, managing

director “and chief bottle washer” of Glossop-based traditional joiners Jack Badger. “We have to explain that a jack badger is a medieval plane with an angled blade.”

It's not the only medieval carpenters' tool the company uses: there are scratch stocks, for carving shapes into wood; hand-cranked brace and bit drills; a froe, an L-shaped hand tool that can be hit with a mallet to split wood along the grain; an adze, an axe-like tool with curved blade set perpendicular to the handle; not to mention pegs and wedges, and a self-tightening drawbore peg.

A Jack Badger door in a church or country house should look and feel identical to the ancient original it is replacing, as it's made in – broadly speaking – the same way with the same tools. So you'd imagine this was something of a niche company. In fact, your correspondent assumed it was more of a hobby than a going concern when he first encountered it. Two men in a shed in Glossop, I figured. Cute.

But the firm is currently working with Amber Lewis, dubbed “LA’s most influential interior designer” by Los Angeles magazine, as well as wealthy clients in Montana, Mallorca and Denmark. “In Denmark, the guy wants a room like The Lord of the Rings,” Naylor says. “They want a library with a tree growing up through the middle. It’s not really what we do, but I can see why they came to us.”

They're also working all over the Cotswolds renovating homes for US billionaires, the designers Marc Newson and Jony Ive – best known for his work for Apple – and a number of celebrities that NDAs prohibit him from naming. And while Naylor and co-founder Rob Edwards did indeed start out in his dad's shed in 2010, they now employ 30 people in a former brewery in Old Glossop, Derbyshire, which they bought about six months ago, with the old brewery's bar intact.

Naylor, an affable 42-year-old in jeans and a jumper, knew he wanted to be a joiner at the age of 14. He had a job in the school holidays with John Hetherington, a local firm, where he fell in love with “slow-grown timbers and specialist sawing techniques”. His parents lived in a farmhouse in Old Glossop, in the High Peak area of Derbyshire, some 15 miles outside Manchester, and his dad had turned his hand to ancient stonemasonry.

With the founding of Jack Badger, Old Glossop has developed something of a traditional skills cluster: three companies of joiners, ancient stonemasons, experts in woven caning for the seats and backs of old chairs, and traditional slate roofers. If you want a house built in the medieval or early modern styles, the old town can do pretty much everything for you. And its appeal is spreading.

“I was in Haverfordwest in the van recently,” Naylor says. “This guy stopped me and said that if I was Jack Badger he’d do anything to work for us, even just sweep up.” He shakes his head, bemused.

Glossop has struggled since its mills and factories closed in the 20th century. Most of the homes built after the Second World War were for people working in Manchester. Now there are people travelling there purely to work for the traditional skills companies. “There’s a massive change in how many people want to be joiners,” Naylor explains. “When I started, it was all about uni degrees. We’re trying to scale and we’re getting lots of applications from apprentices and joiners who’ve found our work.”

One way to get him riled up is to mention Ikea. “It’s a problem in a world where resources are getting burnt through faster than you can shake a stick at. I’m not just talking about oil, I’m talking about wood,” he says. “I see some of the stuff that’s made. There’s good stuff you could have done with that wood and you’ve just made a piece of shit. Do something that’s beneficial, not just future landfill.”

He has an idea for quality flatpack furniture, but needs to grow the company a lot more first. "Our business model is very different to most," Naylor explains. "I say to people: 'I don't want you to ever come back to me again, unless you move house. If you're coming back in 50 years, then we've messed up.' Some of the doors we're replacing have lasted 800 years. That's what we should be doing." Stephen Armstrong

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COMMUNITY LIFE Made for sharing

When I arrive at the meeting, there are no seats left. People are fanning themselves with pamphlets collected from a table by the door. SET Social, Peckham's beloved community arts space and social club known for its eclectic programming and cheap drinks, is facing temporary closure by property developer the Cherwell Group. More than 100 south Londoners are here to save it. Revolution is in the air and there's focaccia on the table at the back (help yourselves).

Conall Monaghan, 32, co-runs the hub's community garden and is spearheading the grassroots campaign Save Our SET tonight in a boxy black shirt and a thin layer of forehead sweat. "It's great to see so many people here who share the enthusiasm for SET..." He begins in his Kildare accent, but he can't finish because someone has broken into enthusiastic applause. The room giggles and Monaghan starts again.

The bar/gallery/community space is in a church hall whose noticeboards are filled with posters for lesbian film screenings and a Mahjong club. The eclecticism is what gives SET Social its charm. You could just as easily find yourself in the middle of a Marx reading group as a Hinge date (the talking points of which, from personal experience, can be eerily similar).

Art-school energy drives the place, but its foundations are sturdier. SET (not affiliated with Save Our SET) is a decade-old charity that finds vacant buildings across London

\- often awaiting redevelopment, referred to as “meanwhile spaces” – to transform into artist studios and community spaces. SET Social is one of many. Several charities use the space too (at reduced or waived fees), including KeyRing Living Support Network, which works with adults with disabilities, and Arts for Dementia. It’s also one of the few places in south London you can go for a pint after midnight if you’d rather sink into deep leather sofas than stand on a sticky club floor.

The Cherwell Group's proposal would displace every group that uses SET Social during the building period, and eventually rehome them in a “new improved community space” (a sleek but sad-looking co-working hall) at the bottom of four storeys of “purpose-built shared living” apartments.

After a group brainstorming exercise and a quick focaccia break, Labour councillor Jasmine Ali rises from her seat. “It’s a great meeting, real buzz and everything...” I watch two women exchange glances at

her teacherly tone. But the people of Southwark need housing, Jasmine suggests. Large families are living in one-bed flats. "We need to respect the area we live in."

The room erupts with dismay. A voice in the back wins out and everyone swivels around to find him. "It's thousands [of pounds] a month for a single HMO [house in multiple occupancy] room," he says. "Not a single one of those households is going to be placed in the development that Cherwell is proposing." Everyone applauds and Ali sits back down.

It's almost 9pm on a Thursday and office leavers in pale blue shirts now have navy circles at their armpits. A woman bunches up her hair with one hand and fans the nape of her neck with the other. People are tired, but fuelled by the spirit of the fight – determined that their meanwhile space lives on. Ella Katz

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ON THE STAGE Miss Demeanour

On a rainy Sunday night at the Regent's Park Open Air Theatre, a silver crocodile is causing havoc on a stage

strewn with glitter and flowers. So are five naked women in body paint, cutting off their woollen umbilical cords; and a contestant covered from head to toe in white feathers, slathered in imitation crude oil.

The Alternative Miss World pageant is a contest founded in 1972 by artist and sculptor Andrew Logan. Contestants perform in three categories (daywear, evening wear and swimwear) and are judged on criteria inspired by Logan's visit to Crufts in his youth (poise, personality and originality).

"We're open to all, any age, any gender," Logan tells me a few days before the event, getting ready to co-host with actor Eve Ferret, while finishing off the bags of prizes for all 16 contestants. "I mean, one year a robot won, Miss Rosa Bosom, operated by the artist Bruce Lacey." This year's judges include couture milliner Piers Atkinson, actor Hayley Mills and Jarvis Cocker.

How would Logan describe the event to a newcomer?

the New Romantics. Alternative Miss World also had illustrious alumni from the start: Derek Jarman won in 1975, performing as Miss Crepe Suzette, David Hockney judged it twice (“he was very, very supportive”) and Divine hosted in 1978 in a giant tent on Clapham Common.

Director Richard Gayer made a film of that night, which the Miss World organisation, led by founder Eric Morley, tried but failed to stop from being screened. Logan's barrister was a young Tony Blair. "He had wonderful teeth," Logan recalls.

As well as reflecting a love of natural forms, which Logan has always celebrated in his sculptures and jewellery, this year's theme, Gaia, is also in tribute to film director Gayer, who died last year. This is noted on the imitation seed bags handed out to the audience on arrival. They contain a single bean to plant: "Firm, tasty fruits, perfect for competitions. Prolific, high-yielding, sweet and occasionally tender. Grow and show outdoors."

The crowds whirl in early for the pre-show entertainments, many in extravagant costumes. By the bar, the Norwich Kitwitches revive the East Anglian folk art of Molly dancing, performing in neon wigs and foam boobs to the bouncy groans of an accordion (“we’re remembering what old ploughboys did in the winter to get money,” says one of them, a green-painted woman called Barbara).

On stage, Logan arrives in a costume of cerulean blue, gold and bronze, like a deconstructed world map. As has been the case since 1972, his outfit approximates traditionally male dress on the right and female on the left, inspired by a music-hall outfit he found in a jumble sale in his teens.

“Thank you, Mother Earth!” he says, raising his hands to the rain. He grimaces slightly, then goes back to his practically permanent smile. “She’s dripping a bit!”

Then come the contestants, whose names alone – Mother Girth, Miss Mortal Coil, Miss Lady GaGaia – deserve prizes. Miss Guy AI sings a folk song while dressed as a bush. Miss Anthropocene is three people, walking crab-like, attached to blow-up dolls. Miss Diagnosis throws Tunnock's teacakes into the audience.

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This guy stopped me and said that if I was Jack Badger he'd do anything to work for us, even sweep up

"I've always called it a surreal art event for all-round family entertainment," he says, adding that it's also a celebration of DIY creativity. "It's to do with what we can make with the wonders of our hands, which means even more in an age of AI."

Logan has been one of the alternative art world's most welcoming and well-connected people for decades. The Sex Pistols played their first gig at a 1976 Valentine's Day party at his London Butler's Wharf studio, which became a counterculture hub that helped punk to develop and led to

My favourite moment is when Fiontasia – Fiontán Bleau Moran – swirls on to the stage in his “nightwear”, a voluminous costume that makes him look like a mythical dervish, an avant-garde ballerina and an extraordinary butterfly. When he wins, Logan gives him a jewelled crown, mace and ring, and dishes out presents to the others.

Then the singer David McAlmont, resplendent in daffodil yellow, leads everyone in He's Got The Whole World In His Hands. Logan throws his arms into the air. The soggy audience sings along, beaming. Jude Rogers

STILL SHOWING Observer critics' takes on the events not to miss

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Art

"The surface twinkles with oleaginous oil paint. Daisies stand proud of it in thick white discs. Somewhere in the middle, or so it is said, the brim of an oversized hat hangs over a mysterious face." Richard Dadd: Beyond Bedlam is at the Royal Academy, London, until 25 October. Laura Cumming

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Classical

A double bill of Bartók's Bluebeard's Castle and Stravinsky's Oedipus Rex are brought together in a Welsh National Opera production that tours to Llandudno, Southampton, Oxford and Plymouth, until 28 November. It is “a display of survival and pluck”. Fiona Maddocks

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Film

"There are moments in Na Hong-jin's marathon South Korean monster movie that are as audacious and dazzlingly executed as anything you'll see in the cinema this year." Hope is still showing in cinemas nationwide. Wendy Ide

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[NOW BOOKING] Music

Tickets for Cambridge Folk Festival at Cherry Hinton Hall are on sale now. The line-up for the three-day festival, which runs from running 30 July to 1 August still to be announced.

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Dance

Renaissance tragedy meets Mean Girls meets 80s slasher movie in Carlos Pons Guerra's

Edward II, an adaptation of Christopher Marlowe's play from DeNada Dance Theatre. The show opens at Stanley & Audrey Burton Theatre, Leeds, on 30 October, and then tours.

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Literature

Tickets are still available for select events at Manchester Literature Festival, taking place in venues across the city from

9 to 25 October. Highlights include Observer Book Club conversations with Hernan Diaz, Deborah Frances-White, Min Jin Lee and Yann Martel.

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The grid

An exhibition in a Swiss town where swimming pools replaced a lake puts our relationship with water in the frame

Its name means “the lake” in French, and the town of Le Locle in Switzerland is shaped by its relationship to water. Through urban expansion, the eponymous lake disappeared; Federica Chiocchetti, the former director of the Museum of Fine Arts Le Locle (MBAL), explains that this led to compensation via large public swimming pools.

Her final project at MBAL: For One Solid Time, Wet: The Swimming Pool in the Imagination, is a multimedia homage to Le Locle's pools. With painting, sculpture, photography and installations, the exhibition also explores ecological precarity and

refutes rumours about MBAL's site being replaced by an indoor pool. “I wanted to transform the threat – and the ideas connected to it, regarding power, aspiration and modernity – into something positive,” says Chiocchetti.

Co-curated with writer Lou Stoppard, the exhibition explores the pool as an entrancing recurring motif in contemporary art, spanning well-known names like Hockney and Sultan to newer artists like Nazgol Ansarinia and Mary Stephenson. “There is a lot of work within the show that celebrates the pool for its beauty, its associations with leisure and joy,” says Stoppard, “[And] also works that probe themes connected to inequality, water crisis, urbanisation and the human desire to dominate nature.”

The works accordingly take us from nostalgic past to murkier future. “[There’s] a room that asks visitors to consider what is next for the pool, in these uncertain times of environmental crisis,” says Stoppard, “Is the pool still a symbol of happiness and dreaming, or something darker?” Tara Joshi

For One Solid Time, Wet: The Swimming Pool in the Imagination runs at MBAL, Switzerland, until 21 February 2027

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David Byrne Singer and author, 74

'Even things that are on the internet are often overlooked': David Byrne

Contour RA by Getty Images

The former Talking Heads frontman on forgotten examples of human ingenuity, evolutionary biology and filming his tour

David Byrne is a polymath who began his career with Talking Heads. Since their 1991 spilt, Byrne, who was born in Scotland and raised in Canada and the US, has released 12 solo albums, sometimes in collaboration with artists such as Brian Eno and St Vincent, as well as film scores, including for The Last Emperor (1987). He is a visual artist, co-founder of the Luaka Bop label and the author of books including 2012's How Music Works. In 2020, Spike Lee directed a film of Byrne's American Utopia solo tour. Byrne's new book is Sleeping Beauties: Why Good Ideas Go Dormant and How They Wake Up. He lives in New York.

The phrase ‘sleeping beauties’ describes dormant scientific knowledge that’s been reawakened. What moved you to write this book about the life cycles of ideas and artworks? I stumbled on the science paper [Sleeping Beauties in Science, Anthony van Raan, Leiden University 2004] and I immediately thought, oh, what a catchy phrase, what a memorable way of expressing this phenomenon. I thought, this doesn’t just apply to science papers. This applies to, well, everything. We all know examples from our own lives of things we love that were unappreciated, then maybe rediscovered. It took on a life of its own, and whenever I stumbled on a story, I thought, OK, that deserves further research.

One of the lesser-known beauties in the book is the thousand-year-old water-management system of south India, restored by 'lakeman' Anand Malligavad, among others. It might be well known to people in Bengaluru that the Chola water management system was something that existed, covering the whole southern end of that continent. They're having water issues now because of having abandoned that a few hundred years ago. It made me think that maybe a number of these stories are really western-oriented. They're about western Europe not getting something; about the west not being ready to accept something, or not knowing about something that was known by the Arabs, that was known by central Asia, known by the Chinese. And without making western Europe into always the guilty party, it does point out that knowledge is sometimes more local than we tend to think. We tend to think that once something's known, it's known everywhere. And it's not, even in this age of the internet.

Another hidden figure is the evolutionary biologist Lynn Margulis. She's amazing. Boy, did she face some uphill battles. What she proposed was that the cells of every animal and plant took their current form by a process of symbiotic union, that the mitochondria were separate living bacteria. At some point, they got surrounded and captured. And the entity that did the capturing, then provided a kind of protection for what became our mitochondria. In return, the mitochondria became an engine that dealt with the energy-producing elements that the cell needed. And the same thing for plants. That idea met with resistance, and it was finally proven, to her great relief.

We can sum up Sleeping Beauties as ideas ‘ahead of their time’. But you point out how that phrase presumes a linear progression from an ignorant past to the present, where we know everything, and it’s better.

It becomes evident as people read the stories in the book that things get forgotten. Knowledge, once acquired, is not always for ever. Sometimes it goes away again. Even things that are on the internet are

often overlooked. So yes, progress ... there might be a kind of lurching forward, and then kind of a retreat. And then another lurch sideways.

Are there art or music sleeping beauties you want to shine a light on? There are lots of personal favourites, but as far as mass acceptance, there's African pop music. The current crop of African artists are now fully going into the pop mainstream, whether they're South African or Nigerian or whatever. That would have been unheard of years ago.

Your recent tours have been based on choreographing an always-moving band. Where did that idea come from? When I started performing with Talking Heads, I didn't know how to move. I didn't want to adopt the received modes of movement that were already prevalent in rock bands because I thought, well, they've already done that. After one of our tours, probably in the early 80s, I stayed on in Japan, and went to see Japanese traditional theatre, kabuki and bunraku and noh. Once you step on stage, you can't pretend everything is just natural. If you try to go for naturalism, that's a mask – just as much as a kabuki or noh mask. Of course, I don't wear a mask [on stage]. But I realised that, movement doesn't have to be naturalistic. It's another layer, like the music or the lyrics, that tells another parallel story.

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Is there any area of human endeavour that leaves you cold?

I'm getting a little tired of every conversation being about AI at the moment. Not that it's not fascinating or won't have a huge impact, but can we talk about other things? Can we not talk about Trump?

There will soon be a film of your most recent concert tour, Who Is the Sky?, directed by Brady Corbet (The Brutalist). He shot in 70mm film. Why? Christopher Nolan, watch out! A lot of digital cameras and film try to emulate 35mm images, which are about the size of a large postage stamp. With 70mm, each frame is larger, it's almost the size of a credit card. Obviously, you get more resolution but something else happens as well. 70mm approximates a little bit closer to what the eye sees. You can take in a wide vista, the whole view, your eye kind of scans around, as it would when you're walking on the street, or in a landscape.

Are you pleased with what you've seen? I've seen the first song, Heaven, which is all one shot. It looks great! Interview by Kitty Empire

I'm getting a little tired of AI. Can we talk about something else? Can we not talk about Trump?

Sleeping Beauties is published by Canongate on 8 October (£26). Subscribers receive a 20% discount off RRP when ordering from observershop.co.uk.

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‘It was always more to do with the people than the games’

Alex Ferguson's new memoir is a life story in 21 matches. In a rare and wide-ranging interview, he tells Paul Hayward why his love of family, his heritage of hard graft and a gift for managing young players were key to his success

The first thing Alex Ferguson does in his study after saying hello is point to a new item in his extensive collection of books on

the assassination of John F Kennedy: The Devil's Chessboard by David Talbot. Ferguson dives straight into a subject that's captivated him since he heard about the shooting 63 years ago as a young footballer.

On the former Manchester United manager's bookshelves there is a gilded leather copy of the Warren commission report into the fatal shooting in Dallas in November 1963. Talbot's book, which rests on his desk, sends Ferguson into fresh hypothesising about who did it. He has his theories.

He remembers being in the bathroom shaving for a Friday night of dancing when his father called out: "Is that right that John Kennedy has been shot?" His son called back: "Dad, you're deaf – you're imagining it." In his own new book, Games of My Life, Ferguson recalls the minute's silence for Kennedy later at the dance and writes: "JFK's death seemed to cast a darker pall over everything happening in my life – the handsome, decorated war veteran, shot at the age of 46."

Since retiring from his role at United in 2013 with 13 Premier League titles, two Champions League victories and five FA Cups, Ferguson, 84, has become something of an archivist of his own past. To the autobiography he wrote in 1999, Managing My Life, he added a second volume, My Autobiography, then a book about management called Leading. A documentary, Sir Alex Ferguson: Never Give In, traced the story from his days as a firebrand trade unionist to the brain haemorrhage in May 2018 that nearly killed him. The new book, which stretches his literary output to a quartet, is a 21-match rumination on a youth spent in the shipyards of Glasgow, playing and managing in Scotland and the glories of his 27-year reign at United. He says all these projects have been important to help him stay mentally active.

My own relationship with him started in the 1990s with a couple of big newspaper interviews. For a football writer, a one-on-one with “Fergie” was the golden “get”, and daunting, because he expected high standards from interviewers. Those pieces probably helped to generate the offer, as a long-term project, to co-write that second autobiography in 2013. At every step in the writing process, he was intensely committed to reaching the highest possible level of memoir. To listen to him describe his work for hours on end felt like a revelation.

Far left, Alex Ferguson in the Old Trafford dressing room in 2011 and, left, notes he took during a coaching course. Sean Pollock, Courtesy of Sir Alex Ferguson and Pan Macmillan

Right, a young Ferguson exercising at home and, below, a fan banner at Old Trafford in 2013.

AFP/Getty Images

Together again now, we admire his collection of books by the peerless biographer Robert Caro, and in particular, Working, a bible of reportage with a title that might sum up Ferguson's own devotion to hard graft.

Games of My Life reflects this. It isn't a collection of greatest hits: more an arc of character formation, spanning 69 years of matches. He reckons he played or managed in more than 2,800 official fixtures, plus another 300 exhibition matches, in 61 countries.

The 21 chosen games flow from the park pitches of Scotland to his two seasons playing for Rangers, and on to a stellar management career with Aberdeen and United. "I could easily have done it just with games for Man Utd," he says. "But Jason [his son] reminded me about all the games I'd played for Glasgow schools, Drumchapel Amateurs and so on."

In the days

that followed

his brain

haemorrhage,

Ferguson lost

the power of

speech and made

notes to reboot

his memory

There's no place, therefore, for the mad night in Barcelona in 1999, when United completed the hallowed treble of Premier League, FA Cup, and Champions League, where they scored two goals in injury time against Bayern Munich in a game that felt like a heartbreak in slow motion until a miracle intervened.

"It's been well recorded – you see it every minute of your life," Ferguson says, explaining the omission. "Although it was probably the most important game for me because I'd never won a European Cup. It would have been a shame going through my career not having done that. Getting the holy grail was always in the back of my mind. [But] the games that really spring to mind are to do with people, more than the games."

Among many poignant chapters is the final one. A glass case opposite his armchair contains a solitary Scotland cap. Ferguson points at it and tells the story of how the Scottish Football Association (SFA) made him wait 54 years before letting him have one. Nobody in football had ever defied Ferguson for that long.

In the summer of 1967, he was part of a summer tour by the Scotland team and played four matches against countries – Israel, and Australia three times – plus three against invitational sides. He scored nine times on the trip. The SFA, however, called it a B-team tour because club commitments had forced so many players to withdraw. That ruling gnawed at him for more than half a century.

erguson is a deeply proud Scot who still takes the Sunday Post, named his first house in Manchester "Fairfields" after the

Govan shipyard where his father worked, and brings tattie scones (potato cakes) back home to Cheshire on every trip to Glasgow. He was never going to accept the authorities denying him his place on Scotland's honours board alongside Kenny Dalglish, Denis Law and Graeme Souness.

Still staring at the cap in the cabinet, he says: “I wrote a nice letter to the SFA and said: ‘This is not a vanity thing – this is a plea for you to understand what it is to play for your country.’ So the SFA decided to give me a cap, along with three

other players. The cap says ‘summer tour’. Nonetheless, I got a cap.” He says now that the award “put a bow on my entire life”.

Ferguson knows he can count himself lucky to have been around to fill that gap in his memorabilia collection. One May morning eight years ago he climbed out of bed with “a savage headache” and “collapsed against a shoe rack”. Wearing her new hearing aid, his late wife, Cathy, heard the crash and summoned Jason, who lived nearby. Ferguson woke in Salford Royal hospital after an operation to relieve bleeding on his brain. The first question he asked when he regained consciousness was how the team his son Darren was managing, Doncaster Rovers, had fared against Wigan Athletic. Ferguson was among five patients operated on for brain haemorrhages at the hospital that day; only two survived.

In the days that followed, he lost the power of speech and scribbled notes to himself to reboot his memory. He was terrified by the loss of a voice that everyone who played for him has since had embedded in the soundtrack of his life. But, by late September, four months after

the brain haemorrhage, he was back at Old Trafford to see United draw with Wolverhampton Wanderers – one of the games in the book. Cathy, who rarely went to matches, was beside him. “I might have managed Manchester United,” he says now, “but Cathy was the one who managed Ferguson United.”

She died in 2023. Her absence from his life after their 59 years together casts a shadow of pain across the house: "Fifty-nine years is a long time," he says. "There was a huge religious part of Cathy, and she always regarded herself as a wife and mother. She never involved herself in my life as a manager. Never complained about it, because she knew it was my job. A fantastic wife, and for the boys – brilliant.

“She was a great judge of people. Very careful with people who wanted to be friendly with me. She never made it here [to his current house]. We got married on the Saturday morning and I played in the afternoon.”

Ferguson the raconteur is never subdued for long. Almost his defining characteristic is the urge

Clockwise from left, a young Ferguson with his father and grandparents; with his wife Cathy in the early 1960s; a team photo from Govan high school

in 1955,

Ferguson is in

the bottom row,

second from

right; as a baby.

Courtesy of Sir Alex

Ferguson and Pan

Macmillan

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Continued from page 9

to tell funny stories and laugh. Thinking back, he remembers meeting Cathy's mother and her asking: "Do you drink, mister?" Ferguson is roaring now as he recalls shouting back: "My name's Alec!"

In a tenement block in Govan, Ferguson's parents "slept in a recessed bed in the kitchen" because one of the two bedrooms had been rented out to an Irish family. Ferguson and his brother, Martin, slept in the other. "That flat was the making of me, the place where I developed my inner confidence and my drive to succeed," he writes.

On the certificate confirming he'd passed his apprenticeship as a toolmaker, the skills listed might apply equally to his talent for honing players: "milling, shaping, slotting, turning and all forms of grinding".

The Fergusons were what George Orwell might have characterised as proud working class: smart, trade unionised and football-obsessed. Ferguson first saw United play in May 1953, when they came to Hampden Park to face Rangers in the Coronation Cup. Three decades later, he was to become the new Matt Busby: as much patriarch and overlord as mere head coach of United.

Float the theory to him that to be a truly great football manager you need an aura, charisma, force of character, and his eyes glow in recognition. “Absolutely. Stein. Big Jock. I enjoyed my time with him. That aura. Shanks [Bill Shankly, manager of Liverpool from 1959-74] had the aura too. You wanted to be like them.”

JFK aside, his book collection leans to the great man of history school of politics. He was fascinated too by Hitler and Stalin, but not because, as some might think, he modelled his management style on tyrants.

"Do people really think I could have won all those trophies just by shouting at people?" he once asked me, when we worked on his memoir.

My theory was that he was, above all, a professor of human nature, a skilled reader of people's inner beings, especially young footballers. A successful manager is someone who persuades other people to do what they, the manager, wants – or needs – them to do, even if it's not necessarily in their interests; who packages a sometimes gruelling daily commitment as a moral duty, to team, to club and as the only path to fulfilment.

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The Fergusons were what Orwell called proud working class: smart, trade unionised, football- obsessed

Ferguson doesn't deny it now, and refers straight away to “my experience of being a shop steward in the engineering department [of typewriter manufacturer Remington Rand]. When we went on strike, I called the apprentices together. The strike was to give the apprentices better standards and salaries. Our salaries were fine. We were an American firm. But we had a duty to help the rest. Everybody out – that was the core message. Everyone was hitting their machines with hammers and mallets. It was exciting.”

He adds: “I liked to get players in my office. I liked to talk to them. I did that sometimes with the younger ones. I would tell them a story or something. On my wall, I had a photograph of when they were building the Rockefeller Center, when they workers are sitting way up on the girder.”

He would show that famous photo (Lunch atop a Skyscraper, 1932) to the apprentices and say: "See that? Not a bit of fear. And I'm asking you to go out there [on the pitch]. If I ever see you jumping out of a tackle, I'll take you [up] to that [girder].

"The other thing I stuck to was – be consistent. I never changed in my beliefs, with young players, whether

I was at St Mirren or Aberdeen or United. It was always there. I thought it was right. I thought it was good to produce young players. I produced dozens of players from the United academy who became internationals, which is pretty good."

Standards were another motif. "Discipline. When I went in, they didn't have blazers. I thought: 'Man Utd!' Right away, I got blazers. When you're walking through an airport, people would think: 'They're Man United.' If you go through in denims and leather jackets, nobody is going to notice that. The badge tells everybody."

It was a managerial career that began in 1974 when he “rolled up to the doors of East Stirlingshire in my Ford estate” to work with a transfer budget of £2,000 and players on between £5 and £8 a week. He left behind a respectable career as a combative centre-forward in something of a golden age of Scottish strikers: hence, he says, his struggle to earn full Scotland caps.

Those closest to him speak of adaptation as being one of his hallmarks, from trying to keep journeymen players out of the pub in Scottish football's backwaters to exerting mastery over Cristiano Ronaldo, Eric Cantona, Wayne Rooney, David Beckham, Roy Keane,

Left, Ferguson warming up for the Scotland youth team in the 1950s and, right, in his Manchester United managerial office in 2010. Courtesy of Sir Alex Ferguson and Pan Macmillan

Left, with Cathy in New York and, right, at Hampden Park in 2021 with his Scotland cap, which 'put a bow on my entire life'. Courtesy of Sir Alex Ferguson and Pan Macmillan, SNS Group/Getty Images

Ryan Giggs and countless others. His fallouts with Beckham and Keane were tests of his authority that ended with the two superstars expelled and the manager's dominion intact. Keane once said to him, during one of their rows: "You've changed." And Ferguson fired back: "You're right, I've changed. I wouldn't still be here if I hadn't."

In the age of directors of football, vast management structures and armies of data analysts, Ferguson's reign can feel both an increasingly remote memory increasingly remote memory and one worth pining for. The certainties (and the trophies) of his time in charge of United evoke the sense that something irrecoverable has been lost; that Premier League football is now entirely transactional and lacks the spiritual grandeur brought to the game by Jock Stein, Bill Shankly, Busby, Arsène Wenger and Ferguson: benevolent dictators.

In the book he writes: “If I were a manager nowadays, I would still want to have ultimate control over everything to do with the football operations – everything. If the manager is the man held responsible for the results, then he deserves the authority.”

The notes preserved in the book are also intriguing. He says: “I had pads and pads. I was making notes all the time. Mainly about activity at the club, players who’d been in to see me – and on games. You can do management a lot of ways. When I was at Rangers I never saw the manager, Scot Symon, with a tracksuit on, ever. He wore a bowler hat and waistcoat – immaculately dressed.”

United's churn of managers since he retired (there have been 11 in 13 years) is off-limits in interviews; to avoid the back-page news cycle and show respect to whichever United manager is trying to turn things round. His own troubled start at Old Trafford was immortalised in 1989 by a message painted on a bedsheet: "3 YEARS OF EXCUSES AND IT'S STILL CRAP... TA RA FERGIE."

But he does say: “The great thing about supporting United is that you have those highs when they turn it on and win a big game. It’s always an exciting way that they do it. There’s no kick it up the park and win a free kick. The way I look at it is – I still enjoy going because the support is always there.

"I'm saying to myself: '75,000, every week.' There can't be a more loyal fanbase than that. People say it's going back to the Munich

“

'I might have

managed

Manchester

United,' he

says, 'but my

wife Cathy

managed

Ferguson

United'

air disaster [and afterwards]. I still hang on to that a bit, because there were always these great players around in my time. Denis Law used to come into training. Nobby Stiles was a youth coach with me for a while. And Bobby Charlton ...[an] absolutely magnificent man."

If his study has the feel of a retired academic's lair, with books spread around, he admits to reading less now, as many would in their 80s. To his old interests in wine, racehorses and the JFK assassination, he has added support for dementia charities. He bought a house in Glasgow to be closer to his brother Martin, who has the condition, and to “make sure Cathy’s memorial is being looked after and is in good shape”.

A dinner in London hosted by Jackie Stewart for his Race Against Dementia charity stirred Ferguson's concerns around an illness that has afflicted hundreds of ex-footballers. "I worried about that myself because I headed the ball a lot," he says. "All footballers did. Dementia's a challenge for anyone getting older. You worry about it a lot. I always say to myself: 'I'm 84 [laughing]. If I get to 85, I'll be all right.'" To comfort himself, he thinks of Jake LaMotta, the boxer portrayed in Martin Scorsese's

Raging Bull, having 106 fights but still living to 95.

"He recognises me, which is great," Ferguson says of his brother. "In Glasgow, they started a music thing [Playlist for Life, a music and dementia charity], and the idea is that you give them a box with all your favourite songs in it. They can just press a button to play them, and it brings all the memories back." He donated £100,000 and submitted a playlist with songs by Frank Sinatra, Nat King Cole, Elvis Presley, the Beatles and Dusty Springfield. And he added a song that "reminds me of the lap of honour at Old Trafford when Manchester United won the Premier League for the first time in 1993". It was bound to be Queen's We Are the Champions.

With a foot in a medical boot from an achilles injury, Ferguson is currently on light duties, managing his energy. But as I leave, he's laughing as he accompanies me to the front door, saying: "I'm still alive, anyway." He was always fiercely and inexhaustibly alive.

Games of My Life by Alex Ferguson with Michael Moritz is published by Pan Macmillan on 8 October (£40). Subscribers receive a 20% discount off RRP when ordering from observershop.co.uk

Radie Peat, the musician who helped Lankum earn a Mercury prize nomination, is at the forefront of a folk revival. She tells Killian Fox why the songs on her debut solo album chime with a country that's reinventing its traditional culture

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The voice of a new Ireland

ne recent weekday evening, in the side room of a pub on Dublin's northside, eight musicians face one another around a couple of low tables. With pints to hand, they run through a series of instrumental numbers – Brendan Tonra's, Apples in Winter – to the delight of the other drinkers gathered around them. There's very little formality here; between songs, the players chat among themselves and to their audience, who swell to a grand total of 12, many of them friends and family.

In the back-left corner, flanked by a pair of fiddlers, a woman is playing concertina with a look of rapt concentration. If you were to wander in by chance, you might be struck by her appearance – she has short, reddish-gold hair and arresting blue eyes, and wears silver hoop earrings – as well as her sureness with her instrument. But you probably wouldn't guess, because she doesn't open her mouth to sing once this evening, that she has one of the most extraordinary voices of her generation – in Ireland or anywhere else.

Radie Peat is primarily known as a member of Lankum, the Dublin band who have done more than any other in recent years to raise the profile of contemporary Irish folk music. She also sings and plays in a couple of other groups, notably ∅XN, who in 2023 put out an acclaimed LP, CYRM. Now she's getting ready to release her own debut solo album, years in the making. It will, according to Dublin folk star John Francis Flynn, help cement Peat's reputation as one of the most important musicians in the country's history. But tonight, in the back of this pub where she plays every week – Peat begged me not to reveal its name for fear of overexposure – she's just one unassuming part of a greater musical collective.

We meet the previous day at a house on Henrietta Street, a once-grand Georgian terrace where the photoshoot for this article is taking place. Peat arrives pale from a poor night's sleep, clutching a cup of coffee. If you know the artist mainly from her appearances in Lankum videos, which range from the unsmiling to the eerily witchlike (see Go Dig My Grave), you'd be forgiven for expecting a severe presence. Flynn, who was friendly with Peat's younger sister growing up,

used to be terrified of her. “She was just very cool,” he tells me, adding that his impressions changed when he got to know her in adulthood: “She was still very cool, but much less scary.”

When we settle down in the cavernous first-floor drawing room, with cracked plaster walls and a case of stuffed birds in one corner, I find Peat engaging, thoughtful and funny, but with a reserve that becomes apparent whenever I ask a probing question, making it clear that she won't go into details about her personal life.

Don't go combing through her new album, No Human Tongue Can Tell, for answers. For one thing, none of the nine tracks were written by her, but are interpretations of existing folk songs that Peat has been collecting over the years. Like costumes, she has tried on several of them in different contexts, including with Lankum. Here, she doesn't merely do the songs justice with her formidable contralto voice, which expresses anger and longing to often staggering effect. She remakes them outright so that it feels – though they've been passed down through generations – as if they're being performed for the first time.

"I always knew I wanted to do it, but I never prioritised it," she says of making a solo record. Her main focus was on Lankum, whose soaring popularity as purveyors of intense, drone-heavy folk had taken its members by surprise. "We never imagined this amount of people would want to listen to the really weird music we make," Peat tells me. She finally got down to recording the LP in 2021, between Lankum's third and fourth albums, but became pregnant not long afterwards. "My plan was to finish the whole thing before I had the baby," she smiles. "But, obviously, that didn't happen – it took a few more years."

The delay had as much to do with her ambitious creative process as starting a family. “I got the idea for how I wanted to do it partly from watching a documentary on how Mike Oldfield had made Tubular Bells, which I thought was fascinating because he has all these recordings of himself layered on top of each other. And that takes time.”

Radie Peat

photographed

for The Observer

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in Dublin.

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It helps that Peat's repertoire extends far beyond the concertina. When I ask her to list all the instruments she plays on the album, she balks a little, not being one to flaunt her talents. "Well, there's guitar in there. There's Mellotron, harmonium and baritone concertina. There's a thing called a bayan, which is an old Russian accordion. There's Moog and other synths. Oh God, and there's harp..." (She neglects to mention the Casiotone keyboard, Wurlitzer electronic piano and Hammond organ.)

John “Spud” Murphy, a key Lankum collaborator who served as producer here, tells me the album is “90-something per cent Radie”. The remainder is made up by guest appearances from other members of ∅XN and Lankum; and, of course, by the original songwriters of bygone Ireland, Britain and Appalachia, whose work Peat chops and changes in often perverse ways. In the case of Willow Garden, a ballad about a young woman’s murder by her male lover, who narrates the tale, she wanted the experience of listening to it “to feel like you’re taking Valium”. The result is the most oddly soothing murder ballad I’ve ever heard.

More often, Peat was drawn to songs told from a female perspective. “I just found those very interesting,” she says, “especially where the woman in the song is not just an object of desire, but has actual agency. Some of the songs are really old, so you’re talking about a time where women would have had way less rights than I do currently. [But] what I found is that these songs are surprisingly progressive.”

Why, I wonder, did she decide to work entirely with songs from the past rather than writing any of her own?

Well, first of all, she says, “when you write the arrangements, you’re bringing it into a different world, anyway”. But de-emphasising the self is part of the point of folk music, she goes on. “For me, it’s an egoless medium, because the songs have travelled through generations and they’ve been changed by so many people over the years. There’s something about that that I find very comforting, because it’s this universal human experience. It’s not limited to just your experience and view of the world – you have this collectiveness there too.”

But, she adds with a smile, lest she erase herself from the picture completely: "I do change them a lot as well."

P

eat, who is in her 30s (she declines to be more specific), has been playing music for as long as she can remember. She grew up in Artane, a working-class Dublin suburb that also produced Brendan Gleeson and Larry Mullen Jr of U2, though Peat is more

excited by the fact that Enya lived and recorded there in the 1980s (she tells me she intended her album to sound like “dark Enya”). Peat’s family was musical and she has memories of performing in pubs and on little stages around the city. “I remember thinking about it when I was 12 or 13 and asking myself: ‘Is this what you want to do? Do you actually like doing this?’ And I was pretty much immediately like: “Yeah, I do.””

When I was growing up in Ireland in the 1980s and 90s, I remember hating trad. In contrast to the music I loved from Britain and the US, it sounded parochial and overburdened by the past. My attitude towards it is much more positive these days but I'm curious how Peat felt about it as a child. Did she never want to rebel?

“Well, I might have given you the wrong impression of my musical roots,” she replies, “because [playing traditional music] was what I did with my family, but it’s not what I listened to.” She was more interested in Nina Simone. “Then I got into Motown and then Radiohead and then heavier music. I listened to a lot of different types of music – and I still do.”

Peat performing with Lankum in Dublin in 2023. Below, the band at the Mercury prize ceremony the same year, when they received a nomination for their album False Lankum. Getty Images

As for the recoil against trad: “The way people view trad music has really changed. It was very much not popular outside the circles that played it. There was a real distinction: you either played it and were part of it and realised how great it was, or you were outside it and had, I’d even say, disdain for it. I think that was a postcolonial mindset that crept in there.”

Meaning that Irish people not taking their culture seriously was a legacy of colonial oppression?

"Yeah, exactly – that it was backward or embarrassing or whatever, and it never was."

Even though music was extremely important to Peat, she never thought she'd pursue it as a career until Lankum came along. The band connected through Cormac MacDiarmada, an old schoolmate of Peat's who ran a local session. There she met brothers Ian and Daragh Lynch, punk rockers who had become fascinated by folk music in their early 20s. The four quickly discovered shared musical interests that went far beyond folk.

“I just remember us being really excited,” says Peat of Lankum’s early days. (The band was known as Lynched until 2016, when a judicious name change was made; “Lankum” comes from the ballad False Lankum, as sung by Irish Traveller John Reilly Jr.) “It was like, wow, we have the same thing in mind. We all realised that we were trying to make something we hadn’t heard yet.”

They released their first album as a four-piece in 2014. The music was so dark and

much of an audience for it: “So it was bizarre to see how many people actually connected

with it," says Peat. Three more albums followed, to mounting acclaim, with 2023's False Lankum

receiving a Mercury

prize nomination.

I saw them playing

Dublin's Vicar Street

that year and remember

being struck by the

outpouring of love

and respect from the

hometown crowd.

Peat sees Lankum's rise, and the concurrent resurgence of Irish folk music, as part of a broader cultural revival "where people

are learning Irish again, they're getting interested in our folklore, clothes designers are referencing traditional Irish textiles. Although," she adds as a caveat, "revival' implies that that happened before, whereas I'm not sure Irish people have ever been this comfortable with their culture. We're looking at it and not recoiling, and being like, actually, there's some good stuff here."

There's a shadowy flipside, however. "Talking about cultural revival, it makes me uncomfortable that, at the same time as this very valid and necessary revival of interest in our own culture, there's also the rise of rightwing ideology that is just really racist and xenophobic and – I'm ashamed of it, to be honest. I'm ashamed that the tricolour has become a symbol for hate, I'm ashamed that people are feeling threatened and unwelcome in Ireland. I think we've really gone astray there, especially for a country [from which] so many millions of us have emigrated. It makes me very sad."

She acknowledges that class divides are playing into hostilities, exacerbated by countrywide housing and healthcare crises. "People are feeling marginalised, and especially in working-class areas, they are being pushed to the side. I just think

they're directing their anger in the wrong direction. They should be annoyed with the government for mismanaging. But, unfortunately, a lot of people seem to think that it's the people who live next door who look a bit different ..." She breaks off, looking uncomfortable. "I hope that all makes sense. I'm not a politician."

Perhaps that discomfort is one reason she prefers to channel other people's words in her music rather than writing her own. The most impassioned song on the album, Dark Horse of the Wind, was written by Irish folk singer Liam Weldon in 1966. Half a century on from the 1916 Easter Rising, it reflected on the failures and corruptions of the Irish state in no uncertain terms: “Now charlatans wear dead men’s shoes, aye and rattle dead mens’ bones / Ere the dust has settled on their tombs, they’ve sold the very stones.” Sung by Peat another 60 years later, the words have lost none of their bite.

That makes the album sound forbidding, but there's a gentleness to it as well, and a spaciousness that contrasts with the intensity of Lankum's sound. And there's an alchemy in how she is able to transform disturbing subject matter, such as the abusive relationship on lead single Still I Love Him, into achingly beautiful music.

Then there's the murder ballad that emulates the feel of Valium. It's not the first blood-soaked number Peat has played in her career. What draws her to such dark material?

"The drama!" she intones, laughing. "Obviously, they're about extreme states of human emotion and behaviour, but I find them interesting as well. Why do people write ballads about murder? I suppose, like, why do we make films about murder? It's so morbid."

She watches a lot of crime dramas, she says. “I’m not sure why, but I do. I find them interesting. And in a way, songs are almost like newspaper headlines – the ones that survive are the ones that fascinate the most.”

That sounds like a good encapsulation of her new album. Next, she plans to make new music with both Lankum and ∅XN. She's already started the process with the former, and if their recent single, an incantatory, electronic-curious cover of the Specials' Ghost Town, is any indication, it could spell a very new direction for the band.

In the meantime, Peat is occupied with family life (she has a daughter with Daniel Lambert, who manages another wildly successful Irish act, Kneecap). And she's happily playing her weekly trad sessions to an intimate audience at a location that shall remain undisclosed. But it may be hard for Peat to fly under the radar for much longer.

No Human Tongue Can Tell by Radie Peat will be released via Rough Trade Records on 13 November. She plays Union Chapel, London N1, on 3 November and Vicar Street, Dublin, on 20 November

THE GRATEFUL DEAD AND THE BIRTH

A new radio documentary explores how the tech-literate fans of the ultimate hippy band helped to pioneer today's digitally connected world. Seán O'Hagan explains why he made it

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OF SILICON VALLEY

When I began writing about music in the mid-1980s, in the wake of punk and

post-punk, the Grateful Dead were viewed as a throwback to the hippy era of peace, love, tie-dye clothing and interminable jamming. If they were mentioned at all by writers or musicians, it was more often with a dismissiveness that bordered on derision.

Nirvana's Kurt Cobain, who viewed the Grateful Dead with a particular disdain for selling out their hippy ideals by becoming one of the highest-grossing touring acts in the US. Referring to the band's singer-songwriter, Cobain once said the only tie-dye T-shirt he'd wear would be stained with “the blood of Jerry Garcia”.

Now, more than 40 years later, and at the risk of being branded a cultural heretic, I have made a documentary for Radio 4 that suggests the Grateful Dead may be as culturally important as the Beatles. How has it come to this?

When the programme's producer, Rich Power, first approached me with that idea, I reacted – as most sane people would – by dismissing the proposition outright. As we make clear in the radio documentary, the Beatles created a series of superbly crafted songs that reverberate to this day; the Grateful Dead often stretched a single song into a 30-minute improvisation. In the eight years they were together, the Beatles had numerous global hit albums and singles; over a 30-year lifespan, the Grateful Dead had just one US top 10 album and one hit single. The Beatles are the most lauded and influential pop group ever; the Grateful Dead are still relatively unknown and unsung outside the US.

Power nodded along with all my protestations, before calmly and methodically setting out his thesis. Put simply, it went like this: the Beatles defined 20th-century pop culture, but the Grateful Dead – and their huge network of devoted followers, the Deadheads - anticipated the digitally connected 21st century we now live in.

"The Beatles cracked open a vision of youth culture, and of mass culture, in a way that was really powerful," says Fred Turner, author of From Counterculture to Cyberculture, who is a key contributor to the documentary. "The Dead are important in a different way insofar as they were at the centre of a kind of big technological social change in the 60s that we don't think of as such because it is related to hippies and longhairs. They brought that forward, they

convened communities around it, they even helped give us a language for understanding what's happening now."

To make sense of the group's singular journey, as well as their cultural importance, we have to go back to the night of 4 December 1965, when a bar band informally known as the Warlocks played their first show as the Grateful Dead.

The event in question was one of the earliest “acid tests” organised by the author Ken Kesey and his inner circle of psychedelic pioneers, the Merry Pranksters. Their aim was to turn the US on to the consciousness-expanding potential of LSD, which was still legal at that time. To this end, from November 1965 until October 1966, they travelled from their communal base in La Honda, California, to various locations across the state in a converted school bus painted in psychedelic colours. A destination sign on the front read: “Further”.

The Pranksters made handmade posters for each event, posing a cryptic question that was also a dare: “Can you pass the acid test?” Participants were offered Kool-Aid – a soft drink made from fruit-flavoured powder – laced with LSD-25, the purest form of the drug. They entered a space that was part spontaneous happening, part absurdist theatre, surrendering themselves to a long night of hallucinogenic uncertainty. An experimental dance troupe might give way to impromptu readings by beat poets such as Allen Ginsberg; a trippy light show seemed to pulsate in time to loud semi-improvised live music by the Grateful Dead, who, through Garcia’s friendship with Kesey, quickly became the house band for the acid tests.

As psychedelic pioneers, the Grateful Dead were an oddly uncharismatic bunch compared with contemporaries such

as the Doors or the Jimi Hendrix Experience, but they somehow managed to play extended sets while high on LSD. During this time, they also crossed paths with some of the most creative thinkers who would shape the burgeoning California counterculture. Perhaps the most intriguing was Stewart Brand, a young Harvard-educated polymath who, according to the author Tom Wolfe, belonged to “the restrained, reflective wing of the Merry Pranksters”.

Brand was influenced by previous generations of radical thinkers, including Norbert Weiner. In the late 1940s, Weiner coined the term “cybernetics” to describe his theory

Continued from page 17

that systems, whether human or machine-driven, used loops of information to communicate. That formative idea, Turner explains, shaped elements of the 1960s counter-culture as well as the digitally interconnected lives we now live online.

“Cybernetics is a vision of control through communication,” Turner says. “It assumes that everything in the world is a signalling thing – my body, my movements, the house, everything. [And] because all these things are info systems, they can be mastered through IT. So now the people who run computers could become masters of the world.”

In his book, Turner writes, “Brand assembled a network of people and publications that together brokered a series of encounters between bohemian San Francisco and the emerging technology hub of Silicon Valley to the south.”

One person who straddled both cultures was the young Steve Jobs, a Grateful Dead fan who went on to co-found Apple and become perhaps the most influential pioneer of the Silicon Valley-based tech revolution. In 2016, Brand told an interviewer, “Psychedelic drugs were new, so they were unique to us ... they were definitely formative in the case of Steve Jobs. The couple of times that he and I talked, we would reminisce about acid trips ... He was a master of the universe, but he was also a hippie and still went barefoot when he could.”

Both Kesey and Brand first experienced LSD under controlled laboratory conditions. Kesey was given the drug in 1959, having volunteered for a CIA-sponsored research programme on the effects of psychedelics. Despite the clinical context, his experience was almost beatific. “We were alive and life was us,” he later recalled. “We joined hands and danced barefoot among the rubble. We had been cleansed, liberated!”

In 1962, Brand was administered the drug by an organisation called the International Foundation for Advanced Study, which was created to explore the psychological effects of hallucinogens. According to Turner, he was given a mural and a yin-yang mandala to look at while classical music played in the background. “They asked Brand how he felt,” writes Turner. “‘Very thing,’ he replied.”

Their differing reactions reflected their contrasting temperaments – the one extrovert, the other thoughtful – but, in 1963, Brand contacted Kesey, having been impressed by his anti-authoritarian novel One Flew Over the Cuckoo's Nest. Soon after, along with other like-minded souls, including Garcia, he became a regular visitor to Kesey's house, which was situated close to the campus of Stanford University in Palo Alto – now regarded as the birthplace of Silicon Valley.

In January 1966, Brand was the main organiser of a threeday event that took place in the Longshoremen's Hall in San Francisco, and is now seen as a pivotal moment in the emergence of the California counterculture. Pointedly titled the Trips Festival and billed as a “celebration of everything”, it was essentially an acid test on a grand scale.

Clockwise from top left: Steve Jobs was a Grateful Dead fan; a Deadhead in a Haight-Ashbury apartment; the band in 1979. Getty Images, Corbis/VCG/ Getty Images

About 10,000 people attended the event, which featured live music by the Grateful Dead, Jefferson Airplane and Janis Joplin, readings by Kesey and, on the Saturday night, a huge communal punch bowl spiked with LSD.

The utopian moment did not last long. In October 1966, LSD was made illegal in California. The following year, the

underground went overground during the supposed “summer of love”, but the counterculture was already beginning to fracture, as drifters, dealers and runaway teenagers converged on Haight-Ashbury in their thousands.

When Joan Didion arrived there on assignment for the Saturday Evening Post in 1967, amphetamine and heroin use was on the rise. She saw the city as a microcosm of a rapidly fracturing US. “San Francisco,” she wrote, “was where the social hemorrhaging was showing up.”

By the spring of 1968, even the Grateful Dead had had enough. They marked their departure from their communal house on Haight Street to a new base in nearby Marin county by playing a free farewell concert on the back of a flatbed lorry. They were not the only hippies leaving the city in an attempt to preserve the original ideals of the counterculture.

One of the many subcultures that had emerged during this heady time was the back-to-the-land movement, whose advocates sought to preserve the collective idealism of the counterculture by constructing self-sustaining

communes in the woods and mountains of California. The person most in tune with their worldview was Brand, who, in 1968, published the first edition of the Whole Earth Catalog, an information and resource manual for communal living, self-sufficiency, ecology and holistic living.

To this end, the Whole Earth Catalog prioritised the sharing of practical information; where to source materials, and what tools were needed to build an eco-dwelling, sink a well or grow your own food. Brand wanted, he said, to create a single information source that enabled “anyone on Earth to pick up a telephone and find out the complete information on

building a prototype web browser, Barlow, as if foreseeing the future, co-founded one of the first digital rights groups, the Electric Frontier Foundation. A decade later, he wrote a pioneering online manifesto entitled A Declaration of the Independence of Cyberspace, which earned him the title, “the Thomas Jefferson of cyberspace”.

Barlow's journey into internet activism had begun in 1985, when he joined an early virtual community called the Whole Earth 'Lectronic Link. The Well, as it was known, was co-founded by Brand, and, true to his roots, it had a strong countercultural element. One of its most lively forums was dedicated to the Grateful Dead. It attracted Deadheads from across

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They taught me that you have to be generous with your content, delight your community

anything". The Whole Earth Catalog is now recognised as an analogue prototype of the internet.

Brand was not the only early internet utopian to cross paths with the Grateful Dead. John Perry Barlow, a Harvard-educated poet and essayist, was an old schoolfriend of the band's rhythm guitarist, Bob Weir. By the time Barlow reconnected with Weir at a Grateful Dead concert in New York in 1971, he was already attuned to their wavelength, having taken LSD hundreds of times. Barlow and Weir went on to write several songs, including Estimated Prophet and Mexicali Blues, which became staples of the group's live shows.

By the mid-80s, Barlow had moved on, becoming one of the first internet activists. In 1990, when Tim Berners-Lee was

the US, who exchanged news, gossip, setlists and information about forthcoming shows.

By then, the Grateful Dead had, against all the odds, become one of the biggest – and highest-earning

– touring bands on the American music circuit, selling out arenas and stadiums across the country. They had started gigging relentlessly in the early 70s out of economic necessity, because their albums did not sell enough. Over the intervening years, they steadily accrued a huge fanbase, many of whom – the Deadheads – followed them from city to city.

“Between 1980 and 87, the Dead did not put out a studio album, and yet they grew and grew in popularity,” says their official biographer, Dennis McNally. In short, the group had single-handedly – and unintentionally – upended the traditional music

business model that had held sway since the 1960s, whereby an artist released an album and then went on tour to promote it. In doing so, they anticipated, again accidentally, today's post-streaming music culture in which touring is the main economic engine. As McNally wryly puts it: "The industry has finally come round to the Dead's approach."

Central to all this was the band's symbiotic relationship with the Deadheads. From the start, as an extension of their communal hippy principles, the band had allowed fans to make bootleg recordings of their performances. Given that the group's sets differed every night and they never played a song the same way twice, the vast trove of unofficial recordings, often captured on high-end equipment, now amounts to a unique career-spanning archive, a shadow history of the band that maps their journey much more accurately than the official albums.

With the band's approval, the tapes were traded among fans, who then made copies to disseminate to their fellow Deadheads. This sharing and exchange network was a precursor of the socially networked fandom that now proliferates in online music forums. As early as 1982, Deadheads were gathering on early online discussion groups such as net.gdead, which evolved into rec. music.gdead. You could argue that there is a lineage of influence from the Deadheads to today's Swifties.

By the late 80s and into the 90s, a third wave of Deadheads had become an unlikely cultural phenomenon. They

assembled in their droves in car parks around arenas where the band played to sell their wares: tie-dyed T-shirts, posters and hippy jewellery, as well as LSD and marijuana. By then, many of the fans were well-off young people who could afford to spend a summer following the group, and for whom they represented a lingering ideal of the fables community, belonging and authenticity.

In 1987, the group had their first US top 10 hit with the single Touch of Grey. That same year, Ben & Jerry's launched a new ice cream flavour, Cherry Garcia. The Grateful Dead had somehow entered the mainstream by a mixture of stealth and luck.

One measure of how far they had travelled was a book published in 2010 (and updated last year) called Marketing Lessons from the Grateful Dead. It was co-written by Brian Halligan, a Deadhead who in 2006 co-founded, and was formerly chief executive of, HubSpot, a successful software company that makes tools for online marketing and sales. Its value is estimated at about \$10bn.

"It was partly influenced by the ethos of the band and the strategy of the band," he says in an interview for the Radio 4 documentary. "They taught me that you have to be

generous with your content, delight your community and pull lots of people in. Another key lesson is: don't just think of your customers as customers. Try to create a community of people who can connect with each other... to learn together and to kind of grow together."

As Turner notes, the radical ideas of 60s hippy utopianism

– openness, sharing, networks, technology as liberation – had also become integral to the ethos of Silicon Valley. Somewhere along the way, though, the utopian vision of a connected global culture of creativity and the free exchange of information had curdled into something much darker.

“People often say that, once upon a time, there was a true internet, where sharing was possible and good, and then it was taken over by corporate ogres,” Turner says. “I really disagree with that. I think the curdling was already in the milk.”

From Turner's perspective, California itself is a central element of an enduring American frontier myth that has been co-opted by the tech bros of Silicon Valley.

"If you look at pictures of hippies, including the Grateful Dead, they are often wearing these pseudo-western cowboy clothes," he says. "Why are people heading to communes, ostensibly to build a different kind of technology-centred future, dressing in gingham and cowboy suits? They are replicating and building their lives on the ideologies that they were raised on. And those are ideologies of frontier expansion and colonialism."

It's an interesting theory, given that those same ideologies, now hypercharged, underpin the tech frontier culture of Silicon Valley, but also Donald Trump's apparent obsession with annexing Greenland and Elon Musk's mission to colonise Mars.

What struck me most about making the Radio 4 documentary, though, was something even more absurdist: how these intertwined stories – of LSD-fuelled hippy pranksters, utopian internet pioneers and contemporary tech oligarchs – are essentially about the law of unintended consequences.

The technological hippy visionaries of the 60s, for instance, could not have anticipated the corporate and controlling nature of our digital present or, indeed, the uncertainty of an AI-driven future in which we have declining agency.

The Whole Earth Catalog now seems like a remnant of a distant time when another world seemed possible. Likewise, the Grateful Dead, a quintessentially American rock group, also epitomise the ultimate absurdist irony: that, by adhering doggedly to the 60s hippy ideal of community, continually ignoring the advice of managers and record executives, they somehow managed to thrive – and helped to invent the atomised digital future.

Archive on 4: The Grateful Dead Are More Important Than the Beatles will air on Radio 4 on 10 October at 8pm

The networker

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[John Naughton] Can you trust Meta's personal assistant to run your life?

Ever since ChatGPT appeared in November 2022, it's been clear to the tech industry that the future of AI was not people

talking endlessly to chatbots. The very good reason for this is that conversing with large language models (LLMs) was, for the companies, a loss-making nightmare because each interaction requires a lot of expensive computation. So, for the McKinseys of this world, the profitable future of AI lay in “agents” – autonomous AIs that could take action on your behalf. You give them tasks, allow them to access whatever resources they need, and let them get on with it.

Last November, Peter Steinberger, an Austrian programmer living in California, created just such an agent. He called it OpenClaw, and released it as open source (non-proprietary) software. It could carry out, via LLMs such as Claude or ChatGPT, tasks assigned to it by a user. Basically it was an AI-based virtual assistant.

OpenClaw caused quite a stir in the programming community. Nat Friedman, for example, a senior figure at Meta Superintelligence Labs, was so impressed that he ordered hundreds of Apple Mac minis and gave them to his colleagues so that they could play with the software. They, in turn, were equally captivated, which was perhaps predictable since they're all geeks for whom getting OpenClaw up and running was child's play.

The same, however, could not be said for ordinary humans, who find installing that kind of software challenging. “If you can’t understand how to run a command line,” observed one nerd, “this is far too dangerous a project for you to use safely.” So the Meta team set out to build something similar to OpenClaw that could be made safe, secure and easy to use at a scale of billions of people. They called it Muse.

Meta launched it on 8 September as “The World’s First Personal AI Agent Built for Everyone”. “Anyone can use it out of the box,” it burbled, “no technical experience required. It can handle tasks, like sending an email or booking travel, and it can take on big audacious goals... It can open a browser, fill out forms,

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What I'm reading

John Naughton's recommendations

Land of plenty

Against purposeful

activity and Abrahamic

religions in a world

of abundance. A

fabulous piece of

writing by Branko

Milanovic on a famous

essay by Keynes.

Eagle eye

AI: a very human tragedy. Terry Eagleton writing (entertainingly) about AI.

Heart of darkness

Alpocalypse

Now. Historian Niall

Ferguson's take on

the dangers of Al.

and negotiate on [your] behalf." And once you had given it a task it would keep going even after you've closed the app. It would come back to you only when something had changed or when it needed approval – like before it sends an email or makes a purchase. This latter task is enabled by Onelink, a service set up by the online payments processor Stripe, which enables you to set up a digital wallet for your agent's use.

To make all of this possible, Meta points out that Muse can access a person's apps across categories such as

email, calendar, payments, health, shopping and so on. Users choose which apps it connects to and can revoke access at any time.

Initial media responses to the app have been comically ambivalent. “I tried Meta’s Muse AI agent,” ran one Wall Street Journal headline. “It’s helpful and scary at the same time... The more data you hand over, the more this talented personal assistant can do for you.” Same story from the TechRadar reviewer: “It’s incredibly useful, but handing it my digital life felt deeply uncomfortable. That much power over my life needs supervision.”

It does. At the same time, though, the Muse app is the No 1 download on the Apple App Store, which suggests we may be heading into strange territory. After all, to use Muse you have to entrust some very private personal data to a company that has a formidable track record of untrustworthiness. Recently, for example, it paid up to \$18bn to settle a lawsuit in which it was accused of addicting and harming children with dangerous products.

If Muse does, in the end, become a runaway success, what does that say about us? Is it a reflection of Tim Wu's insight that "convenience is the most underestimated and least understood force in the world today"? Or that we're heading into the "soft despotism" that Tocqueville worried about – the kind of power that provides for people's needs and manages their affairs and in the end "spare[s] them all the care of thinking and all the trouble of living"? The kind of power that tech giants now possess.

Interview

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Lorna Simpson's blue period

The pioneering photographer was the first African American woman to have a solo show at New York's MoMa. She tells Kadish Morris about her early encounters with racism, her iridescent later works, and building an archive of Black history through collage and constellations

Lorna Simpson was six years old when she came across a book of documentary photography titled The Movement at a

close friend's house. “It’s a book about the civil rights era in the United States and in the South, and the terrorisation of Black people by the Ku Klux Klan,” says the 66-year-old artist. She was already familiar with the book – her parents owned a copy and she had flipped through it several times with her mother. However, on this particular occasion, she looked closely at one of the images and understood, for the first time, what she was looking at. “It was the body of a Black man who had been hung from a tree, and burnt,” says Simpson. “I remember very vividly, seeing an image I didn’t quite understand, and then seeing it again on my own, without an adult, without someone else present to narrate for me. That was very powerful.”

As harrowing as the black and white image was, Simpson valued being faced with the brutality of racism in the security of a friend's living room, and at her own pace. "That's a very precious way, rather than being confronted by someone on the street, which did happen eventually later," Simpson tells me over Zoom from New York. "At some point in one's travels in public or in school, you will get up against racism. You will see the vitriol."

Simpson's work is confronting in its own way. Her conceptual photography – collages of found images and paintings – explores race, gender and representation in deeply inquisitive ways. Her use of defunct news photography, fragmented figures and composed colour palettes has been described as pioneering, evoking feelings of both threat and empowerment, and blurring the line between reality and fabrication. Simpson's career is a rarity for a Black artist in that she reached great heights early on, with solo exhibitions at major institutions such as New York's Museum of Modern Art and Whitney Museum of American Art within the first decade of her career. In 1990 she was one of the first African American women to exhibit at the Venice Biennale.

For her forthcoming exhibition, Previous & Ongoing at Hauser and Wirth London, Simpson returns to the UK after eight years with an expansive survey that showcases the symbiotic relationship between the different media in her practice. As ever, there's a meaningful return to the past, with many works rooted in unsettling documentary photography and symbols of disaster, from smoke plumes to gunshot wounds. Animals appear in her new collages, marking a departure from her usual compositions of the faces of Black men and women. "There's a painting of a woman down at the beach, with a mascot head of a tiger in a bikini. As in many of the

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Portrait by Donavon Smallwood

Above, Lorna Simpson photographed in her New York studio and below, 2026's Vista.

collages, I substitute the skin with this constellation of the sky."

Simpson is also known for her striking large-scale photograph-and-text works that explore the relationship between historical memory, public images, personal

For Simpson, these collages became a means to building an archive of Black media, imagery and cultural history. She used cutouts of advertisements and identity and collective trauma. The same motifs reappear, with hair being one of the most dominant. Still, there's a dynamic quality in the way she takes something as simple as a wig and turns it into an unwavering comment on the politics of European beauty standards. In the work Wigs II (1994–2006), more than 50 image panels show hairpieces hanging on a wall, some with captions such as “the wig produced the desired effect”. Simpson’s long interest in Black womanhood and the media also shows up in a series of collages in which she repurposed images found in copies of Ebony and Jet that once belonged to her grandmother.

adorned faces and hair with elaborate acrylic brush strokes, rendering them surrealist formations. She was interested in the aesthetics of these magazines, but also in what they represented socially for the African American readership. “It’s not Life magazine, where it’s speaking to a white audience in terms of products. It’s these intimate conversations [with Black people].”

Simpson was born in Brooklyn, New York, in 1960, to a Jamaican-Cuban social worker father and an African American mother who worked as a hospital secretary. Her parents introduced her to art young, taking her to museums and the theatre. "My parents were politically active," she says. They let her read anything she wanted – there was no distinction between adults' and children's books. "That was my introduction to comprehension and trying to orient myself as a reader to the writer's voice."

Simpson's foray into photography came early. She'd got her hands on a polaroid camera after saving up coupons on Kleenex boxes. She later studied painting and photography at the School of Visual Arts in New York, which she found wasn't without flaws. "The education I was getting in New York was very narrow and white," says Simpson. She found true inspiration by hanging out in the Lower East Side, going to clubs, interning at Harlem's Studio Museum and attending the exhibitions of Black artists. "Just Above Midtown was a non-profit space by Linda Goode Bryant that showed incredibly good artists like Terry Adkins and David Hammons. Exhibitions that had a really conceptual approach to working with objects and languages that I found fascinating."

'A departure from her usual compositions': above, Tiger with Star Spots, and right, Constellation, 2026, which sold at Christie's for \$254,000. Lorna Simpson 2026/James Wang

During these years Simpson travelled through north Africa and Europe and formulated her style and aesthetic.

Some of her earliest photographs were inspired by the white shift dresses she saw women wearing while in Italy. The dress became a motif: Waterbearer, made in 1986, features a Black woman wearing one while pouring water from a jug and from a bottle. Underneath is the caption: "She saw him disappear by the river. They asked her to tell what happened. Only to discount her memory." This became one of her most celebrated pieces.

"I just wanted to explore how rigid we are as a society about gender and sexuality and how targeted and how vulnerable Black bodies are," she says. "There's this public space that is dangerous and at the same time, the construction of self is under attack even in the privacy of one's own home. Or the language that one uses is policed."

By the mid-80s, Simpson gained widespread attention in the art world. Her first solo show at Just Above Midtown Gallery opened in 1986, followed by a show at MoMA in 1990. It was the museum's first solo exhibition by a Black woman. Still, much of her early success surprised Simpson, not due to a lack of confidence in her work, but because of how misunderstood it was during her studies. "You don't even know [British photographer] David Hamilton, so how can you have an inkling of what I'm doing?" she says. "My experience and

exposure was much different from the people around me."

That's why, in 1993, when the late feminist theorist and cultural critic bell hooks wrote about Waterbearer in Artforum, calling it “a portrait of serenity, of being, of making peace with oppositional history”, Simpson felt truly seen and heard. “You will get into amazing conversations with writers and other artists about the work which will reveal things that you haven’t even considered,” she

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As a young artist, the most important thing is to understand your own mind, what your language is

says. “It isn’t a thing about control, that everybody has to sign up to how I see the work, but [that] the conversation needs to be insightful, and not racist and messed up.”

In conversation with her conceptual photography work is her monumental painting. Simpson decided to explore the medium in 2014 and began creating stylistically abstract, vast works, abundant with iridescent shades of blue; blues that are inspired by everything from the sea, the Arctic and the night sky to the cultivation of indigo, a crop that was tended by enslaved labourers, and to the musical blues. “I have so many friends who are amazing painters. It was a little embarrassing [to start],” she confesses. She persevered through the discomfort of finding her rhythm in a new medium and ended up creating some of her boldest works. Her explorations came at the right time too, as the close family friend and late Okwui Enwezor was curating the 56th Venice Biennale at the time. "He was the one who gave me the opportunity to show the paintings I'd been working on."

Simpson lives between homes in New York and Los Angeles and makes sure to have breaks between heavy bouts of work. “Having family and having a relationship with my daughter, I feel so lucky,” she says. “The best ideas come from leaving it alone for a while... The necessity to make things doesn’t always work for me.”

She's aware that today's emerging artists face their own pressures. "It's a much different art world than when I was 25," she says. "As a

young person the most important thing is to understand your own mind. What your language is. To be able to observe how ideas come to you and how you execute them intellectually and conceptually."

Simpson's career spans five decades, and her exhibition at Hauser and Wirth will show just how deep and sweeping her body of work is; how she has made sense of her Blackness, womanhood and Americanness, but also why she is considered to be one of the US's most groundbreaking artists. Recent successes include her work Constellation selling at Christie's for \$254,000, double its estimate, and her contribution to the newly opened Barack Obama Presidential Center in Chicago. But commendations mean little to Simpson in comparison with artistic discovery. The work is where she places all value. "I just have to come to make what I make really humbly."

Previous & Ongoing is at Hauser and Wirth London until 23 December

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[Classical] The singing nun

The 12th-century mystic

Hildegard of Bingen is

celebrated in Nwando

Ebizie's multisensory

mystery opera and a

Biennale installation

Fiona Maddocks

'The hypnotic music, dance and movement took on its own life': Nwando Ebizie's Ecstasy of the Virtues. Claire Shovelton

Ecstasy of the Virtues

Stone Nest, London W1

The Ear Is the Eye of the Soul

Giardino Mistico, Venice Biennale

Tosca

New Theatre, Oxford

Bring healing herbs as an offering, we were urged. A mist of rose-scented water would be sprayed. We would all share in the ritual of extreme unction. My enthusiasm for herbs and healing is boundless. I am less good at audience participation or being sprayed on. So I was nervous about the premiere of Nwando Ebizie's Ecstasy of the Virtues, a multisensory mystery opera inspired by the life, music and visions of the 12th-century nun Hildegard of Bingen (1098-1179). I have seen several Hildegard-inspired shows, including one involving people dressed in habits and chopping raw vegetables. Would this be in that memorable category?

It took place at Stone Nest, a former Welsh chapel in London's West End (before moving to Leeds on Saturday, then on Wednesday to Barrow-in-Furness). This atmospheric, unglamorous building has established itself as an arts venue where challenge is a priority. It is easy to mock events in which you might sit on a beanbag or yoga ball, and be offered bread and a blessing at the interval. But this was an unclassifiable show with moments

of great beauty. After the initial surprise – what was going on, who was everyone? – the hypnotic music, dance and movement took on its own life.

Ebizie, who was born in Nigeria and grew up in Oldham, was the recipient of the 2025 Paul Hamlyn composer award and has been a resident artist at the Yorkshire Sculpture Park. She describes herself as a “neurodivergent Afrofabulist”, creating stories from her perspective as part of the African diaspora. Her music draws on Nigerian traditions, as well as Brazilian, African-Caribbean, Persian, and western classical. Glimpses, aural or verbal, of Hildegard were woven into Ebizie’s own music and libretto.

Canonised in 2012, Hildegard did not use the phrases “colonial crises” nor “their huge dicks”, but much of the rest of the text was familiar from her extensive mystical writings and ethereal, single lines of chant. Her morality play Ordo Virtutum (Order of the Virtues), about the struggle for a devil's possession of a soul, was the starting point. The work has had a long gestation. (I spoke to Ebizie in lockdown about this project, as she had read a book I wrote about Hildegard.) She has retained aspects of the play, while turning the devil into the horned figure of Self-Loathing (played by Chisato Minamimura, a Japanese-born deaf performance artist and British Sign Language guide), a reflection of our own inner demons.

The four Virtues, dressed in different coloured puffball gowns, like gorgeous boiled sweets (costumes by Polly Simon), had different musical identities: Grace Nyandoro is an operatic lyric soprano, and Cevanne Horrocks-

Hopayian a singer-harpist. She and versatile singers Laura Bowler and Yfat Soul Zisso are also composers. The Iranian singer-actor Sara Amini, wrapped in a chrysalis of white gauze, then submerged in a bath of water, was unsettling and convincing as the Soul/Hildegard. These, together with the small

ensemble of singer-dancers, are a new breed of multidisciplinary performer. They draw on every possible global source, acting within and outside notions of “classical music”. They make us rethink.

It is easy to mock

events in which you

might sit on a

beanbag or yoga

ball, and be offered

bread and a blessing

Hildegard also features in this year's Venice Biennale, under the heading The Ear Is the Eye of the Soul, curated by Hans Ulrich Obrist and Ben Vickers of London's Serpentine Gallery, and commissioned by the Vatican. The central element is the Giardino Mistico – mystical garden – inspired by the “life and legacy of Saint Hildegard of Bingen”. As you walk along its gravel paths, wearing headphones, a soundscape of commissioned music by composers including Brian Eno, Meredith Monk, Terry Riley, Patti Smith and Precious Okoyomon plays.

I am not absolutely certain, had you put a gun to my head, that I'd have recognised the Hildegard inspiration, but as Pope Leo XIV said last year (quoted in the programme): "The logic of algorithms tends to repeat what 'works', but art opens up what is possible. Not everything has to be immediate or predictable." Totally.

In contrast, Puccini's Tosca is immediate – noisy, violent, stirring – but not predictable, even if you know she's going to jump. The score throws up revelations on every hearing. The Oxford International Opera company, in its debut production, conducted by Marios Papadopoulos, secured a starry farewell: Bryn Terfel has been singing the role of Scarpia, the lascivious chief of police, since 2006. This was, he says, his last time. Joined by the classy duo of Carmen Giannattasio as Tosca and Saimir Pirgu as Cavaradossi, Terfel showed his cool mastery of this nastiest of parts, still in robust voice and dominating the low-key and modest staging. Does Oxford need an opera company, someone nearby asked? If this level of singers is on offer, why complain?

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Home listening

Classical music on CD, on air and online

Women and the Piano by Susan Tomes (Hyperion) The pianist and scholar Susan Tomes grew up

never knowingly playing any music by a female composer. Decades later, she wrote a book on the subject, Women and the Piano: A History in 50 Lives, and discovered works she had never come across.

On her new album for Hyperion, she shares the fruits of her findings with works by a dozen composers. Fanny Mendelssohn and Clara Schumann remain the best known. (A new book about Schumann, Madame Composer by Sarah Fritz, is out this month.) The American Amy Beach is also familiar, a pioneer in the composition of large-scale orchestral works. The French aristocrat Hélène-Antoinette-Marie de Nervo de Montgeroult (1764-1836) and the Venezuelan Teresa Carreño (1853-1917) have had recent attention but others are still in the shadows.

The concentration on short works, played with agility, grace and variety by Tomes, leaves us hungry for more. It's timely to mention figures released last week by the Donne Foundation that showed 17 composers, all male, account for 50.2% of all music programmed. Beethoven's music alone equals 5% – more than that of all women composers combined. I'm all for Beethoven, and probably the other 16 male composers who make up those numbers, and I can guess who they'd be. But that's quite some inequality. Donne is doing its utmost to prick the consciences of musicians and concert administrators.

Cedric Thorpe Davie: Orchestral Music, Volume One (Toccata Classics) Neglect knows no

bounds. I doubt even a single work (happy to be corrected) by Cedric Thorpe Davie (1913-1983) was played last year beyond the confines of the university of St Andrews where he became professor in 1945 and built up an important music department. Above all Davie was a prolific composer of film scores, especially in the 1950s cinema heyday, and of many concert works: a key figure in the Scottish musical renaissance of the mid 20th century. The Toccata Classics label, itself a brilliant and maverick treasure trove of the slightly known, the scarcely known and the completely and utterly not known at all, has released Davie's orchestral music Volume One, admirably played by the St Andrews Chamber Orchestra, conducted by Bede Williams. It's stirring and immediate. Time to usher Davie back into the daylight. Fiona Maddocks

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Theatre

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Liberating Liberace

Simon Russell Beale plays magnificently against expectation in a strange, soulful new play that seeks to peel back the layers of the pianist's persona

Susannah Clapp

I'll Be Seeing You

Pitlochry Festival Theatre; until 11 October

He arrives with one enormous preen. Descending from the back of the stage into a bleary, attic-style room, Simon Russell Beale wears a long gold cape draped over his arms like wings, his chest puffed out in a sparkling waistcoat. Later, he will snuggle into a huge ostrich feather coat and tiny glitter shorts. He is Liberace, the pianist as famous for his costumes as his chords who, at the peak of his fame between the 1950s and 1970s, was the highest-paid entertainer in the world. Sequinning his way through Tchaikovsky and boogie-woogie.

Martin Sherman's new play is part of a shining season programmed by Alan Cumming at his terrific Pitlochry Festival theatre: coming up are Happy Days and My Fair Lady. The show, co-directed by Cumming and Ben Occhipinti, is also part of a surging preoccupation with people who construct glittery persona: clever Dolly Parton putting together her clamorous glamour; Barbara Cartland building a confected self, as dissected in Matthew Sweet's biography. Like them, Liberace knew what he was doing.

Sherman, best known for his 1979 play Bent, which focused on the persecution of homosexuals in Nazi Germany, does not go at it directly. He channels his drama through the character of a young writer – performed by hyperactive, pec-flexing Fra Fee – who

has been commissioned to write a play about Liberace. Whom he does not like. The flash and grab showmanship has something to do with this, but the main reason is what he considers to be Liberace's lack of honesty. He refused to admit he was gay. In 1959 he sued the columnist Cassandra of the Daily Mirror for libel. The attack had been biliously fluent, as orchidaceous as Liberace himself, who was deemed a “deadly, winking, sniggering, snuggling, chromium-plated, scent-impregnated, luminous, quivering, giggling, fruit-flavoured, mincing, ice-covered heap of mother-love".

It is a truly interesting case, as at least half the adjectives are not pejorative in themselves but only because they imply homosexuality. It is not self-evident that the opposite of all these qualities is desirable: that the world needs more men who are stinky, sombrely clad, stolid and po-faced. Liberace won. For much of his life he was performing when homosexuality was categorised as illegal; for all of it, the subject was treated with

'Performance and make-believe is clearly what he is about': Simon Russell Beale as Liberace in I'll be Seeing You at the Pitlochry Festival Theatre; below, with Fra Fee. Tiu Makkonen

extraordinary caginess. When Michael Parkinson interviewed him in 1973, he talked of people getting “the wrong idea about you”. Liberace responded levelly, knowingly: “That could very well be.”

Rather brilliantly in Sherman's play, he defends himself for not coming out by saying he was not hiding his true self: performance and make-believe is clearly what he is about. He then calls out the author who is himself, Liberace says, not telling the truth: he is not young, not fit. At which point the play moves from skittish and strange to soulful. Fra Fee exits and the real-life playwright enters. At the age of 87, Sherman makes his stage debut: grave, measured, modestly dressed, sceptical of Liberace but also holding him in awe for the sheer giddiness of his life. In an extraordinary closing moment, the elderly dramatist rests his head on the pianist's shoulder, while his hand creeps round his spangled middle.

The action is light: scenes of surreal speculation, of mothers knitting piano keyboards, some sexual frolics, some writers' angst, which is never quite as interesting as writers think. Not much drive, but a succession of indelible images. Russell Beale – so growlingly good as a siren-suited Churchill in De Gaulle: Résistance – exquisitely mimics the moue of the lips, the twist of the brow, the fluttering fingers. Some camp mannerisms are too easily within his range: he can seem to be his own marionette, much as Liberace often looked as if he were smiling at his own smile. Yet he can play beautifully against expectation. Liberace is said not to be a very good singer, but the musical Russell Beale slips you into a shared dream when he croons the play's title song.

Tim Hatley – a designer for whom in general more is more – is co-creator of the Liberace persona, rightly piling stuff on the stage and on actors. A silver car has a scantily-clad chauffeur to match. Acolytes sport T-shirts patterned with piano keyboards: when they bend down, Russell Beale, ogling the audience as he talks about the importance of fingering, plays them like a piano – and slips his hand towards a private part or two. In defiance of the notice a few minutes away from the Highlands theatre which proclaims: "No Camping."

Art

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Bay watch

A shimmering show of French artists inspired by their time in the south offers pure optical pleasure compared with Renoir's bland lovers at the National Gallery

Laura

Cumming

Painting the French Riviera

Royal Academy, London W1; until

31 January 2027

Renoir and Love

National Gallery, London WC2; until

31 January

It is high summer at the Royal Academy and will remain so all through the bleak midwinter. Never was a blockbuster more reliably designed to lift the spirits. Painting the French Riviera has Cézanne's baked terracotta cliffs and Monet's rose gold beaches. It has Signac's coral shorelines and Matisse's blazing scarlet sands. Bonnard's hotel room glows yellow above a bay that heats up from burning blue and orange to hot pink in picture after picture: enough chromatic intensity to warm the hands and heart.

Which is, after all, why so many of these French artists went south in the first place. Renoir had arthritis, Matisse bronchitis, Henri-Edmond Cross was chronically rheumatic. Mediterranean heat was the cure. Monet came for three weeks' rest on the new Calais-Nice express in 1884 and stayed for several months, dazzled by what he called "the fairy-like air". Signac, grieving the sudden death of Seurat, sailed to the Riviera on his own yacht in 1892. Bonnard met him there in 1909, eventually bought a house and never left.

The south becomes a place in the mind, as much as a real locale. Of course there are recognisable features. The shimmering horizon between sea and sky is beautifully measured in Signac's pointillist dots. The curve of the bay is matched by the curlicues of hotel balconies. The palm tree is the undisputed emblem of the French Riviera, anchoring the scene from first to last.

But, in a way, all these visions are a practised deceit – a fiction, at least. The Mediterranean sun blanches the colour out of everything along that coast. Bougainvillea flashes crimson in deep shadow, it is true, and masts, sails and swimming costumes sometimes flare out of the blinding white air. But what you see in this exhibition is not some kind of

heightened realism; it is modern art inventing itself.

The first picture is one of Cézanne's great Bathers, a classically timeless subject. His naked figures in their blue-green Arcadia shiver and vibrate like animations on the canvas. Monet, looking closely, begins to whip up the coastline with vectoring strokes, the rhythm of his brush stirring the heat. His bay of Antibes hovers like a tangerine dream at dawn; by late afternoon, it is melting away and the foreground tree darkens half the picture. The sun-bleached town of Ventimiglia, along the coast, is a frisson of lavender, pink and blue – what Monet called “a palette of diamonds and jewels”. He thought it might shock, though by now, it is as safe as all the other RA merchandise.

Monet, like so many of these artists from the north, was dazed by the Riviera. “It is so beautiful, so bright... One swims in blue air.” What’s surprising is how rarely the elements are actually blue in this art. Dufy opens his hotel shutters right back on the burning cobalt of the bay at Cannes, it is true, but Matisse and Derain are liberating colour from reality, so that swatches of yellow and red can stand in for anything – sun, sea or sand – in the expression of pure ecstasy.

The Riviera cheers everyone up, even what the curators call “outsiders”: the German expressionist Max Beckmann, in voluntary exile from the Nazis, although his palm trees cast tense shadows. Even the agitated Chaïm Soutine, whose seaside is woozily angled but as sun-drenched as nothing else in his art. Even the suicidal Franco-Russian Nicolas de Staël, whose abstracted seascapes are articulated in horizontal bars of jaunty violet and vermilion (though what are seas and skies if not inherent abstractions?).

Most startling of all, for anyone accustomed to the severe grisaille of cubist-era Braque, are the merry pictures he painted on the Riviera. Boats bob in rainbow colours, beaches are fauve-bright and the baking ground is formed of golden dashes, as if the bare canvas below was holding the Earth's core heat.

There are some truly mediocre Bonnards in this exhibition, where the eye cannot get a purchase in the clumsy fug of foliage and colour. I wish I had never seen Picabia's

Left, Monet's Morning at Antibes, 1888, 'hovers like a tangerine dream'. Philadelphia Museum of Art: Bequest of Charlotte Dorrance Wright, 1978-1-22

Below, Yves Klein's ANT 84, 1960, is one of 'many surprises' in the show. 2026 Succession Yves Klein c/o ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London

boggle-eyed snoggers at new year in Cannes. And Picasso is granted his usual pride of place, unquestioned, filling the enormous central gallery.

But there are many surprises, not least Yves Klein right at the end. Nice-born Klein's first dada performance involved "signing" the sky at 19, as if the intense blue was his own; which would later become the case with the deep ultramarine International Klein Blue (IKB), whose manufacturing process and formula he registered as a patent in France. Two sea sponges dipped in that colour look like alien trees, alongside two painted panels of IKB to rival any Provençal skies.

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Culture Club

'Figures in their blue-green Arcadia shiver and vibrate': above, Paul Cézanne's Bathers, 1890-92. Saint Louis Art Museum,

Painting the Riviera is easy on the eye and purposefully entertaining. Three actors on the corniche – Cary Grant, Grace Kelly and Moira Shearer – appear in film clips towards the end, and anyone who objects to the fact that some of these paintings look like ads may be surprised that the very same artists, from Matisse to Picasso, actually created the tourist posters in the final room.

There is no hint of the politics that dominate many art shows today. You do not learn, for instance, that Renoir could be openly antisemitic or that Signac was an anarcho-communist, whose seaside scene In the Time of Harmony is a work of utopian propaganda. The point is pure optical pleasure. That it is all inspired by a ribbon of coastline barely a film star can now afford is beyond the point.

There are four Renoirs in this show; if you can take any more, go to the National Gallery's Renoir and Love. Plump nudes, flaccid and deboned; rosy cheeked flower sellers; sweetly smiling blonds waltzing with their lovers. Girls everywhere, biddable and benign, and without a trace of depth or personality.

The famous works are all here: sun-dappled dancing at Le Moulin de la Galette, Parisians beaming beneath the strangely rainless umbrellas. The emphasis is on love, which seems wholly unnecessary, given that Renoir paints very little else. There is a half-hearted attempt to suggest that two girls in a boat might be lesbians and a claggy image of roses left for someone – but who? – in a theatre box, but essentially everything is spelled right out.

The worst painting here shows Renoir's girlfriend as a nude odalisque, laid out for the viewer. The caption says she may even be pregnant. It is extremely hard to square this with his self-portrait as emaciated and anxious, frown lines like exclamation marks above his eyes. But it is equally hard to understand how he could have ruined the soft and pearly warmth of his pictures with copious spots of deep purple and ultramarine.

The subject justifies the art every time, or so Renoir believed. “I know it’s hard to get people to admit that a painting can be great,” he declared, “and still be happy.” But happiness is not quite the issue. The Great Bathers, as it is misleadingly known, shows a trio of nubile nudes by the water. The composition pivots on the fulcrum of a single erect nipple. Soft porn, for one thing, but in its blurs, smudges and depilated pink flesh, it is also entirely kitsch.

Architecture

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Rough magic

A £6.7m redesign of east London's scrappy fringe theatre retains the edgy, improvisatory spirit of the original

Rowan

Moore

The Yard

Hackney Wick, London E9

Peter Salter: Drawings

AA Gallery, London W4; until 5 December

There's some risk when a spontaneous, creative, zero-funded performance space becomes a better-equipped, more substantial, more permanent venue. It can lose the energy and edge that comes from improvising with almost nothing. It can be overwhelmed by the demands of turnover and logistics or be suffocated by comfort.

Such is the challenge faced by The Yard theatre in Hackney Wick, east London, which was founded by its artistic director Jay Miller in 2011 in a borrowed, leaky warehouse. Initially planned as a three-month project, it was converted by Practice Architecture with volunteer labour and a budget of £7,000 for materials. It became what one critic has called “the most significant new fringe venue in the capital of the past 20 years”.

Now it has been remade with a doubled capacity of 220, along with new backstage facilities, community space and improved accessibility, at a total project cost of £6.7m. The architect is Takero Shimazaki and his practice, who last year were shortlisted for the Stirling Prize with their refined, timber-structured Niwa house in south London. The new Yard is more rugged, with corrugated fibre cement sheeting and areas of well-worn brickwork kept from the original building. Downpipes, railings and other ordinary items are picked out in magenta. A stretch of graffitied wall has been incorporated into the structure.

It also has ambitions. Shimazaki cites the great Italian architect Andrea Palladio as an inspiration, and there are echoes of a renaissance church in its composition. At

one end is a tower, the other a pedimented front. The former (not so Palladian, this) is clad in translucent polycarbonate and becomes an illuminated beacon at night. The latter, sturdy and subtly polychromatic, is formed of K-BRIQ, a material largely made of recycled waste whose makers call it “the world’s most sustainable brick”.

A driving force behind the design is sustainability and reuse. The original fabric is as much as possible kept and materials are recycled. Air from a natural ventilation system exits via the tower, which also functions as a duct. There's a related aesthetic of adaptation and improvisation. The whole is an assemblage of contrasting parts: heavy, light, bright, muted, new, old, rough, refined. It is of its place, a once-working area undergoing regeneration with craft beers and apartment blocks, but also an elevated version of its surroundings. There's an Antony Gormley sculpture, donated by the artist, on the roof.

The foyer is a touch more plush than the exterior, with balustrades and slender metal columns painted gold. The palette has something of a high Victorian theatre, also of the vibrant abstractions of the Bauhaus artist Josef Albers, with maroon banquettes, an ultramarine bar, walls in malachite and shades of red. The auditorium is more sober: there are tubular steel structures painted deep purple and curved banks of seating in stony pale grey.

The stage is level with the pavement outside, from which it is separated by a wall and a door, both sound-proofed. This, together

Takero Shimazaki's design for the Hackney Wick theatre features a graffitied wall and a tower that becomes an illuminated beacon at night. Philip Vile

with the not-too-finished nature of the interior, contributes to a sense of immediacy. The theatre is currently staging For Colored Girls Contemplating Suicide/When the Rainbow is Enuf, the 50-year-old choreopoem by the American writer Ntozake Shange. Five performers, each dressed in a different strong colour, dance and declaim on a stage with no set at all: they become the culminating and most significant of the theatre's elements.

The budget, although much greater than before, was still tight, and in places its effects feel a little too astringent. But it helps the building succeed at one of its most important tasks. It does indeed preserve and enhance the spirit of the original.

If you want to see some magnificent architectural drawings, go to the new exhibition of Peter Salter at the Architectural Association in London. He is a designer and teacher who has exercised a profound influence on architects and students. The works on show were made to develop and explain unbuilt and built works from 1985 to 2020: a restaurant in Japan, a bridge in Venice, a development of four houses in west London.

Partly drawn with drafting pens and straight-edged instruments, they exhibit delicate precision learned in his early days as a technical drafter working for local authorities. They are also animated with washes, pencil and fluent freehand. They show several things at once: the thinking process of the design, its detail and dimensions and the imagined life of the proposed spaces.

Human figures, usually naked and often weighty, populate smudgy shadows between curving forms. His designs are earthy, sometimes literally so – he was an early proponent of the now fashionable technique of rammed earth. You won’t always know what’s going on – the projects on display are not fully explained in the show – but you’ll see drawings that bring together the bodily and the constructed like few others.

The whole is an assemblage of contrasting parts: heavy, light, bright, muted, new, old

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Just stop oil

Film of the week

Tom Cruise takes on the most challenging role of his career as a Texas fuel magnate in Alejandro González Iñárritu's self-important, enraging eco satire

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Wendy Ide

Digger

(129 mins, 15) Directed by Alejandro González Iñárritu; starring Tom Cruise, Riz Ahmed, John Goodman

What a thoroughly aggravating film this is. The latest picture from the Mexican director Alejandro González Iñárritu is a work of audacious ambition. It displays bravura technical prowess and filmcraft to match that of his multi-Oscar-winning Birdman. At the same time, it's every bit as obnoxious and self-indulgent as Iñárritu's most recent movie, the widely panned Bardo, False Chronicle of a Handful of Truths. It coaxes Tom Cruise out of his action hero comfort zone and into what is arguably the most challenging role of his career. But he falls prey to the misconception that the more overblown and grotesque a performance, the better the acting.

Digger will draw comparisons with a range of strikingly original works, from Terry Gilliam's Brazil to Charlie Kaufman's Synecdoche, New York. There are also less flattering similarities with ego-trip follies such as Francis Ford Coppola's Megalopolis and Ari Aster's Eddington. Despite moments that are genuinely exhilarating in their gutsiness and nerve, the film is dense, disorientating, enraging and exhausting. As one industry insider wearily observed to me after the royal gala premiere last week: "It's a lot of film."

Perhaps what most frustrates is the fact that Digger is not what it initially appears to be. After a bombastic onslaught of noise and overstimulation, the film unfolds into a rather more layered, intriguing and thought-provoking work. But since the film-makers have requested reviews remain spoiler-free, it's impossible to excavate the more interesting

aspects of the feature.

What can I say? Digger is a confrontational and timely film, turning its lens on the monstrous ultra-wealthy elite who would rather let the planet burn than see a dent in their profits. It also stresses that we are all, in some small way, complicit; that we are reluctant to give up the privileges of the modern age in the face of an uncertain future. It's an uncomfortable watch, even before you factor in the clattering score and the camera that finds the most unflattering angles imaginable, then slaps on a fisheye lens to further amplify the ugliness.

Representing the worst excesses of wealth and power is Digger Rockwell (Cruise, heavily disguised with a putty grey complexion and mouth twisted into a moue of permanent dissatisfaction). The cinematographer Emmanuel Lubezki shoots him from low angles so that Digger towers over us like the titan of industry he believes himself to be. He's an oil man by trade, with Texan cowboy affectations and a treasured wooden handle spade inherited from his grandfather. But Digger's domain extends far beyond the handful of prairie oil wells on which the family business was founded: he's the most powerful man in the world. Right now, he's drilling in Greenland and choosing to ignore the increasingly urgent warnings from his safety advisers, led by the browbeaten Dr Ganesh (Riz Ahmed, delivering the sole unequivocally excellent performance).

Then the unthinkable happens. An iceberg five times the size of Washington DC breaks off, with grave implications for most of coastal Europe. Digger, together with the US president (John Goodman), the shell-shocked vice-president (Michael Stuhlbarg) and various other luminaries and hangers-on, assemble in a boardroom decorated with frescos of all-American heavy industry (nothing is subtle in this brash cacophony of a film, and that goes

Tom Cruise as Digger Rockwell, right, in the 'self-indulgent' Digger. Warner Bros

It is dense and disorientating. As one industry insider wearily observed after the premiere: 'It's a lot of film'

double for the production design). Their quandary: how to put a positive spin on what is shaping up to be a mass extinction event for a whole swathe of the planet? Meanwhile, Digger is preoccupied with keeping his ailing pet cat alive and trading barbs with his much younger half-sister Emma (a criminal waste of the talents of Sandra Hüller).

The fact that all is not what it at first appears works in the film's favour on multiple levels, not least by defusing some of the apparent crassness of releasing a blockbuster about a glacier-based environmental disaster so soon after the Nepal flash flood. It even sounds a cautious note of hope, suggesting that even in the aftermath of tragedy, humanity and art will endure. Is that enough? It's tempting to assume that any film that shouts this loudly must have something of significance to say. But this is one that overstates everything, including its own importance.

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And the rest... by Wendy Ide

The Weight

(113 mins, 15) Directed by Padraic McKinley; starring Ethan Hawke, Russell Crowe, Julia Jones

A muscular Depression-era adventure, atmospherically smeared with plenty of grit and grime, The Weight is a rousing redemption story starring Ethan Hawke at the top of his always impressive game. He plays Murphy, a widower with a keen mind for all things mechanical and a strained smile that barely conceals the worries that are etched deep into his gaunt face. The smile is for the benefit of his button-cute daughter, Penny, but even she can see that her father is struggling to keep a roof over their heads and food on their plates.

An encounter with a band of thuggish cops sends Penny to a children's home and Murphy to the wilds of Oregon to carry out a sentence of hard labour. Here, his quiet competence catches the eye of the work team warden, Clancy (Russell Crowe, admirably meaty in a small role). Murphy is offered an opportunity to earn his freedom. He just needs three trustworthy fellow convicts, strong legs and sharp wits. Their mission: to transport a cargo of gold across the Oregon hill country to safety. A stowaway joins the party: Anna (Julia Jones) is an Indigenous woman who sees a chance to escape her miserable life and who proves to be a canny comrade.

The combination of desperate men, greed and the most nerve-shredding rope bridge scene since William Friedkin's Sorcerer makes for a gripping, old-school outlaw thriller. First-time feature director Padraic McKinley beefs up the drama with panoramic widescreen cinematography, the better to capture the violent beauty of the unforgiving landscape and the savagery that lurks within it.

Derek vs Derek

(88 mins, 15) Directed by James Damer

Dawson; featuring Derek Banbury,

Derek Gow

Both are farmers, with adjoining plots of land in Devon. Both are named Derek. But that's pretty much the extent of what Derek Banbury and Derek Gow have in common. This droll, thought-provoking documentary explores the debate over farming practices and our stewardship of the British countryside through the prism of two cantankerous neighbours who find themselves on opposite sides of the argument. Banbury, a dairy farmer, adores his cows and employs every available technique to maximise the productivity of his land. His neighbour Gow has rejected traditional farming in

'A rousing redemption story': Ethan Hawke plays widower Murphy in The Weight.

favour of an ambitious rewilding and conservation project.

It's a controversial move, not least because some of the species that he has supported with breeding programmes – wild boar and beavers, for example – have made themselves a little too comfortable in the neighbouring farms. Shotguns are brandished; hedgerow management becomes a thorny issue. But James Damer Dawson's enjoyable film encourages accord rather than division: both men, it becomes clear, care passionately about the future of the land.

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Knife: The Attempted Murder of Salman Rushdie

(107 mins, 15) Directed by Alex Gibney; featuring Salman Rushdie, Rachel Eliza Griffiths

The knife, wielded by an assailant in a frenzied attack in 2022 on the writer Salman Rushdie in Chautauqua, New York state, is the starting point. But the sharpest element of this wide-ranging documentary about the author's life and his physical and mental recovery is the formidable mind of Rushdie himself. Using private and painfully intimate footage captured by Rushdie's wife, Rachel Eliza Griffiths, in the aftermath of the shocking incident – plus extensive archive material – the feature is a vehicle, more than anything, for Rushdie's agile intellect.

He narrates, with candour but remarkably little rancour, the journey to recovery after his near brush with death. The unshowy, workmanlike direction from Alex Gibney quite rightly allows his subject's voice to take centre stage.

Artist of the week

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The life and soul

Noughties powerhouse Jill Scott packs R&B, hip-hop, blues and spoken word into a career-spanning show – and doesn't scrimp on charisma either

Kitty Empire

Jill Scott

O2 Academy, Birmingham

Cardboard boxes labelled “toxic love”, “drama”, “bitches” and “liars” are all packed up and ready to go outside Jill Scott’s stage-set house. Since 2000, when her twice-platinum debut album – Who Is Jill Scott? Words and Sounds Vol 1 – thrust her into renown, the Philadelphia neo-soul singer has been sharing resonant life lessons while gathering Grammys along the way. British audiences not currently riding the soul train may know Scott from her portrayal of Precious Ramotswe from The No 1 Ladies Detective Agency, the TV series based on Alexander McCall Smith’s novels.

An abandoned career in teaching underscores Scott's exuberant drive to share knowledge. "Miss Jill" can really hold a room. At tonight's sold-out gig, she exudes megawatts of charisma over two hours while sharing intimacies and playing confidante to the crowd. Themes include holding on to one's values, optimising emotional wellbeing and doing what feels good – not least, the thrill of mutual sensuality.

“I did not ask you to bring children to this show!” Scott chuckles, after peaks of ecstatic singing and frank insights, before introducing bassist and co-band leader Dwayne “DW” Wright as “the pussy whisperer”.

"I want you to turn off your ears and listen with your vagina," Scott instructs the audience, as DW unleashes the kind of innard- strafing frequencies that local dignitaries Black Sabbath would admire. Bodily connection – human connection – matters to Scott. She has brought a full band on this European tour, including an R&B vocal group, Freeman, who also act as hype men, as well as a trumpeter and jazz flautist. It's all part of her commitment to "human beings,"

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Albums

Scott says, playing Be Great from her most recent album, this year's To Whom This May Concern. There are 28 people involved in putting on this tour, she informs us proudly. "That's 28 flights, 28 hotel rooms." Scott and crew are a lush, generous superorganism placing faith in people, not their tech substitutes.

Another recent song, Offadaback, pays tribute to a panoply of Black figures who walked so Scott could run up and down her multi-octave range, sashaying about in a voluminous blue gown. (A backdrop depicts Tina Turner and Malcolm X.) A chest of drawers near boxes of unwanted baggage stores a plethora of hats, hair wraps and wigs; she changes headgear every few songs. For the old timey New Orleans blues of Pay U on Tuesday, her takedown of feckless men, Scott accessorises with a blue feather fan. On BPOTY (AKA “biggest pimp of the year”) – another track from her most recent album – Scott also calls out money-grabbing preachers.

Neo-soul has perhaps become a redundant genre assignation for Scott, who was among a cadre of 00s soul artists informed by hip-hop, spoken word and R&B. Tonight's musical menu features jazz, new jack swing-infused R&B from Freeman, and Scott's operatic passages, including some stunning, lower-register forays into classical Spanish forms on an extended version of her much-loved early hit He Loves Me (Lyzel in E Flat). To Whom This May Concern, released in February, marked her return to music after a decade; Scott's longtime friend and fellow neo-soul traveller, Erykah Badu, also staged a comeback this year with Before the World Blows. Add to these the recent releases from Jalen Ngonda and Genesis Owusu, and 2026 has been a standout year for soul-adjacent LPs.

As she moves through her career-spanning set list, Scott tells of how she has been “weeding” people out of her life. Someone who had to go was a great sexual partner – “Mr Dingaling” – who wasn’t interested in a “duet”. Cross My Mind, from 2004’s Beautifully Human album, details Scott remembering past intimacies – part sexual healing, part primer on true love – that segues into the new album’s Don’t Play. “Please me hard, so hard, like a K-Dot lyric,” she sings, nodding to Kendrick Lamar.

The upshot is that Scott has met someone new. (“We took our time, and investigated,” she smirks.) In a long final section, more recent tracks hold their own against Scott’s best-loved hits, which include The Way and Golden, the latter about living freely, joyously. And although the last word uttered is “freedom!”, it is an insight from a few songs prior that sticks just as long in the mind. “Character, over every fucking thing,” Scott declaims. Her own sentimental education seminar comes with bags of that same quality.

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Ruin: It's Not Just Music Kaitlyn Aurelia Smith (Someone Special)

Best known for her abstract, even ambient use of modular synths, Kaitlyn Aurelia Smith has been dancefloor-curious for some time. Ruin – her fifth solo album since 2016's breakthrough Ears

– commits fully to it. In May, the prolific, sometimes new age-leaning American electronic composer played the Barbican with the London Contemporary Orchestra. Reports suggest the encore turned into a bit of a rave, albeit one restricted by the plush seating.

Ruin's nine exuberant tracks abound with digital distortions and the clatter of drum'n'bass. Introduction fades austere minor key strings into gleeful sound-making, reminiscent of the clanking and squelching of early Sophie. This effusive mood returns on That Is Like You, an overdriven digital pop track full of arpeggiating elements. It sounds like fun.

Late arrivals to bass music can often put a foot wrong, particularly if their link to London's sound system culture is tenuous. But Smith, a millennial Pacific northwesterner, acquires herself admirably. This is not mere breakbeat trend-riding. Tracks such as Obsessed are high-BPM workouts that come at partying from the avant-garde. Smith has described Ruin as her “fuck you” album – “not to you, but for you”. It’s a cathartic release that still foregrounds Smith’s compositional chops. Kitty Empire

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The Age of Everything Johnny Marr (BMG)

Having been a gun-for-hire for more than two decades after the Smiths broke up, it wasn't until 2013 that Johnny Marr finally settled into a solo career. The steady day job is

really suiting him – roadtested on last year's US tour dates, the songs on his fifth album are his most impressive set to date. Pleasingly, it's a more succinct record (10 songs in 45 minutes) than 2022's sprawling Fever Dreams Pts 1-4, although it also finds him reining in some of that album's more electro-oriented moves.

Highlights abound: It's Time bursts with energy, Marr's infectiously jangling guitar very much a nod to his earliest work and the "whoa, whoa" vocals of the chorus bizarrely redolent of Hall & Oates's Maneater (as a 1980s-themed bonus, the whoas on That Feeling recall the Police's Invisible Sun). Throughout, Marr's guitar sparkles without ever being showy, which perhaps explains how Beyond the Rain and Spin somehow make old indie-rock ideas sound fresh. Not many musicians are still at their peak in their 60s, but that's just one more way in which The Age of Everything impresses. Phil Mongredien

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Nature's Pill Wishy (Winspear)

A 1990s revival is in full swing and the Indianapolis-based indie band Wishy have a very specific take on the decade's music. Their blend of sugary grunge and dream pop apes the crossover hits by the likes of Velocity Girl and the Wannadies. Standout single Sensational has so many touchpoints of the era that it is almost encyclopedic: a beat from Rob Base and DJ EZ Rock's It Takes Two; a crunchy, Offspring-style guitar riff; a spoken-word verse like the "strike a pose" intro from Madonna's Vogue; and an interpolation of Ultra Naté's Free. There's also a four-bar conga solo. And that's all before the irresistible chorus, in which singers Kevin Krauter and Nina Pitchkites encourage a "confrontational cold caller" to "hang it up".

The rest of Wishy's second album is similarly, unapologetically fun. Even Krauter's angsty response to a lover's departure on All the Rage – "Fuck doing the dishes / Fuck these clothes on my floor / I don't care any more / Now that you're gone" – is a fist-pumping joy. Mona Lisa and the Pitchkites-fronted Lovesick are breezy and full of hooks, while Freak 99 is endearingly silly. Wishy might be mining the past but on this evidence, they have a bright future. Lewis Huxley

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Synonym Meshell Ndegeocello (Blue Note)

The bassist and singer Meshell Ndegeocello proved a deft interpreter of dense material on her Grammy-winning, James Baldwin-inspired 2024 record No More Water. Now returning with duets album Synonym, she turns her hand to reworking popular songs by everyone from Bob Dylan to Ja Rule and the Human League. Ndegeocello's list of collaborators is impressive, featuring Chaka Khan, Lianne La Havas, jazz pianist Robert Glasper and Brandi Carlile.

Her placement of these voices is skilful, using La Havas's soft, soulful tone on the earworm melody of Dennis Edwards and Siedah Garrett's Don't Look Any Further and harnessing R&B singers Destin Conrad and Moses Sumney's harmonic agility on Roberta Flack's ballad The Closer I Get to You. Yet the most impressive aspect of the album isn't these starry features but Ndegeocello's rearrangements of familiar music.

On Always On Time, she flips the 00s hip-hop energy of the Ja Rule and Ashanti original into a warm 70s soul number, while Sonny & Cher's I Got You Babe sheds its lilting optimism and transforms into a mournful jazz ballad. In dismantling recognisable melodies, Ndegeocello finds exciting new ground. Ammar Kalia

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One to watch

Madra Salach

The Dublin six

piece eschew jigs

and reels in their

grungy exploration

of traditional folk

Like the Pogues and Lankum before them, Madra Salach get to the gnarly roots of traditional Irish folk. There are no upbeat jigs or reels to be found here; this is music with a furrowed brow and whiskey on its breath. Having formed in 2023, Madra Salach (“dirty dog” in Irish) have grown from a trio to a six piece, building their way up from sessions in the pub snugs of their native north Dublin.

The start of this year saw the release of their debut, self-produced EP, It's a Hell of an Age. The Man Who Seeks Pleasure is the standout track, with harmonium drone, plucked mandolin and tin whistle accompanying Paul Banks's anguished, broken-man vocals. Fresh from wowing audiences on the festival

"It feels like a stepping stone for us into more lively and punky arrangements," says Banks. "It's a uniquely Irish song, wrought with anger and despair." A cornerstone of the group's live set, the song takes the tempo up a notch, with Banks's urgent vocals giving way to an exhilarating instrumental coda. While we wait for their debut album, Madra Salach's take on Turkish Song of the Damned will appear on a tribute album to Shane MacGowan, 20th Century Paddy, set for release in November. Jamie Healy circuit, the band is back on the road promoting new single Ribbon Factory.

Ribbon Factory is out now on Island Records; Madra Salach tour the UK until 14 October

Rereading

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How the CIA weaponised western culture

Who Paid the Piper? tells the incredible story of how US intelligence services funded art, films and literature in an attempt to win the ideological Cold War. William Boyd revisits a book that stands as a lasting testament to its author, the late Frances Stonor Saunders

I knew Frances Stonor Saunders largely through our mutual connection with Craig Raine's literary magazine Areté, where she was a regular contributor. Her tragic,

premature death a few weeks ago has robbed the world of a spirited, very smart and delightful human being and a remarkable writer of wonderfully diverse books. Her astonishing 1999 debut as an author – Who Paid the Piper? The CIA and the Cultural Cold War – has just been reissued by Granta. By coincidence I reread it last year as part of my research for a six-part TV series I'm writing based on Paris Interzone, James Campbell's book about American writers in Paris. I was particularly interested in the CIA's covert persecution of those Black American writers who were living in Paris in the 1950s and 60s – James Baldwin, Chester Himes, Richard Wright and others – and wanted to investigate the context of the CIA's presence in Paris during that time.

That context was a covert CIA organisation known as the Congress for Cultural Freedom (CCF), with its headquarters established in Paris between 1950-1967. The CCF's remit was to boost and spread the cultural values of the west as a clear counter to communism. The thinking was that if western “culture” in its broadest sense was made widely available then the values it enshrined – freedom of expression, experimentation, democracy, libertarianism, pluralism and so forth – would make those attracted to communist ideology think again. At the height of its powers the CCF had offices in 35 countries, was the publisher of more than 20 magazines, funded art exhibitions, symphony orchestras, movies, museums, prizes, conferences, public debates, book publications – in short, anything that promoted a Pax Americana and enshrined the freedoms that the west offered as opposed to the repression and sterility of the USSR and its satellites. Many writers, intellectuals and academics were thus recruited – some wittingly, some unwittingly.

For the CCF, the most effective use of propaganda was defined as the kind where “the subject moves in the direction you desire for reasons which he believes to be his own”. This was the CCF’s modus operandi and it was very effective. Perhaps the most famous example was the highly regarded British magazine Encounter, best described as an early Anglo version of the New York Review of Books. The poet Stephen Spender was its editor. He was utterly shocked when, in 1967, he finally discovered that the whole magazine was a subsidised part of a CIA propaganda machine and swiftly resigned.

Frances's book was the first to reveal the global extent of the CCF's role. It seems incredible to relate now but, for example, the panjandrums of the CCF thought that it would be a good idea to promote the work of the so-called New York School of artists. Consequently, Abstract Expressionist painters like Jackson Pollock and Willem de Kooning were soon beneficiaries of the CIA's largesse. Exhibitions abroad were arranged; favourable critical articles and profiles were written; trips were paid for.

Most interestingly, there was a kind of highbrow elitism operating throughout the CCF's cultural propaganda. An English translation of Boris Pasternak's Doctor Zhivago was quietly subsidised. Russian translations of TS Eliot's Four Quartets were clandestinely air-dropped into Soviet Russia. There were feature films made of George Orwell's Animal Farm and 1984 that were secretly financed by the CCF. However, the CCF was particularly

Many writers,

intellectuals and

academics were

recruited by the CCF

– some wittingly,

some unwittingly

keen on books and reputedly underwrote over a thousand publications during the CCF's lifetime. One senior operative wrote: "Books differ from other propaganda media, primarily because one single book can significantly change the reader's attitude and action to an extent unmatched by any other single medium."

There's a fascinating chapter in Who Paid the Piper? called “Ransom’s Boys” that reveals this deliberately fostered elitism and the intellectual heft of the CCF’s reach. The Ransom in question is the American academic critic and poet John Crowe Ransom, a professor of poetry and founder of the celebrated magazine the Kenyon Review, which was based at Kenyon College, Ohio. The magazine, covertly funded by the CCF, was fertile recruiting ground. The roster of names associated with Ransom and his magazine reads

like a Who's Who of American public intellectuals, featuring scholars and writers such as Allen Tate, Randall Jarrell, Peter Taylor and Robert Lowell, who became “assets” of the CCF. As with the other magazines, journals and institutions that the CCF quietly bankrolled the aim was not just to encourage free cultural expression but to create a broad front of “persuasion” that celebrated American liberalism – or propaganda, in other words.

The book has some telling pages on writers as spies. CIA writer-operatives included Peter Matthiessen, William

Buckley and James Michener. The point is made that the phenomenon of the writer as spy has a long tradition, one that includes Somerset Maugham, Compton Mackenzie,

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Clockwise from above: Stephen Spender; Encounter magazine; Frances Stonor Saunders; the 1954 film of Animal Farm, funded by the CCF. Chronicle/Alamy; Encounter magazine 1961; Granta; Prod.DB/Alamy

Edited by STEPHEN SPENDER & MELVIN J. LASKY

REBECCA WEST

RICHARD HOGGART

"Chatterley," the Witnesses and the Law

THEODORE DRAPER

THEODORE DRAPER

CASTRO'S CUBA

FRANK KERMODE

Miller & Betjeman

D. W. BROGAN

New Frontiers

C. A. R. CROSLAND

A Welfare World?

ARNOLD BEICHMAN

The U.S. Press

PAUL BOWLES

Friend of the World

CLAUDE LEVI-STRAUSS

Edge of Our Jungle

Notes, Topics, Poems

THOM GUNN

JOHN WAIN

NIGEL DENNIS

EZEKIEL MPHAHLELE

RICHARD LOWENTHAL

Blimps and Pinks

90

MARCH 1961

MONTHLY 3s. 6d.

KENNETH CLARK

Chagall & Kokoschka

Elizabeth Bowen, Graham Greene and Muriel Spark to name a few. For the CCF, high culture was important as an anti-communist line of defence and these writers and intellectuals were enlisted as foot soldiers, whether they knew it or not.

It all sounds fairly benign: what's not to like about high-end art and literature being given a secret financial helping hand? But not all writers benefited from this generously financed CIA propaganda. In particular, Black American writers, self-exiled in Paris, became the baleful focus of the old CIA and the McCarthy-era anti-communist witch hunt. Because these African-American writers publicly and vociferously denigrated the racial policies of oppression, segregation and discrimination that then existed in the United States, everything they said and did ran counter to the supposedly salubrious cultural programme that the CCF was trying to propagate.

The lawyer Roy Cohn, Donald Trump's role model and sleazy mentor, who worked closely with Senator McCarthy in the 1950s, was particularly aggressive. He had dozens of books banned from US libraries at home and abroad. Black American writers in Paris were harassed and had their passports revoked. Richard Wright, author of the classic Native Son and doyen of the Paris community of Black writers, died mysteriously from a sudden cardiac arrest in a Paris clinic in 1960, aged 52. His

widow was convinced that he was the victim of a CIA-organised assassination. Nothing could be conclusively proved but the CIA pattern was familiar: if you couldn't win the hearts and minds of individuals then they became your enemy and your legitimate prey.

Frances's research into the workings of the CCF is clearly prodigious and mightily impressive. The book also reads limpidly, seasoned with her habitual literary brio, irony and humour. However, her conclusion is bleak. As she puts it at the end of this extraordinary work of historical investigation, those intellectuals in the CCF who read Dante and had been to Yale were, all the same, part of an organisation that “recruited Nazis, manipulated the outcome of democratic elections, gave LSD to unwitting subjects, opened the mail of thousands of American citizens, overthrew governments, supported dictatorships [and] plotted assassinations”. The Committee for Cultural Freedom was still an arm of the CIA. It may have looked like a clever method of enforcing Pax Americana but it was, in the end, another way of establishing and maintaining American hegemony.

Hear William Boyd discussing the third volume of his spy trilogy, Cold Sunset, on The Observer Book Club podcast

Who Paid the Piper? The CIA and the Cultural Cold War is published by Granta (£14.99)

The Sunday Poem

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After Sorolla Suzannah V Evans

Your back—as shapely as a scallop shell, your vertebrae a line, a radial groove that gently curves when you bend down to move the towel across your legs—skin caramel. The towel is like a sail stirred by the air—revealing now your knee, now inner thigh, all rosy from the shower, and criss-crossed by marks where you ran your fingers over there. Your hair—a ruffled-up anemone—your cheeks—both tinted scarlet by the heat—your ears—sand-coloured, whorled into a pleat—your eyes—two scoops of water from the sea—Sorolla’s purest violet for a rock could not describe the colour of your—

Suzannah V Evans's debut Bloomsbury Poetry collection, Under the Blue, was shortlisted for the 2026 International Dylan Thomas prize. Her new pamphlet is How Running Is (Guillemot Press)

Politics

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Gordon's Brown's good neighbours

The former prime minister argues that community spirit is the key to overcoming our divisions and defeating populism. By Rachel Sylvester

The Future Starts With Us

Gordon Brown

Simon & Schuster, £25, pp416

In the New Labour era, Gordon Brown was always seen as the dour, brooding pessimist in contrast to the sunny, optimistic Tony Blair. He was Lennon to Blair's McCartney, Picasso to his Matisse, glowering in No 11 and promising prudence with a purpose while the then prime minister swanned around No 10 declaring that a new dawn had broken. So it was a pleasant surprise and a bit of a relief to find an ultimately hopeful message woven through The Future Starts With Us.

Admittedly, the positivity takes a while to emerge. The book is, Brown writes, “a child of crisis”, born amid the “seismic shifts that have jolted the tectonic plates” of politics, economics and diplomacy. The old rules-based world order is collapsing. Disorder and violence, exacerbated by drought and floods, are wreaking devastation and governments seem unable to come together to tackle new challenges such as AI.

A “might-is-right” attitude has taken hold as Trump’s America turns its back on its old friends and allies, the former prime minister suggests. There has been a “slow, grinding ... erosion of civic life” and a dangerous rise of “aggressive and authoritarian ethno-nationalism” led by populists who exploit the weakness of local communities. A “broken economy” has been compounded by a “broken society” in which “60% of the adult population across the world are not participating in any kind of social or civic activity on a regular basis”.

In a sweeping analysis that is full of interesting facts, Brown reports that the number of fully liberal democracies worldwide has fallen to just 29, the lowest in more than three decades. The Bulletin of the Atomic Scientists, in existence since 1945, has moved its famous Doomsday Clock closer to midnight than at any point in its history, from seven minutes to midnight when it was first set in 1947 to 85 seconds in January 2026 – meaning we are closer than ever to global catastrophe.

Brown argues that the “crudest and most visual form of ... xenophobia is the proliferation of physical walls, fences and barriers dividing nation from nation”. In 1990, after the fall of the Berlin Wall, the number of border walls dropped to 15. Now, after a surge in construction, there are at least 70, according to the book. The future “cannot and will not neatly mirror the past”, Brown writes, before saying: “By 2050, India’s economy will likely be four times the size of the UK's, China's twice that of the European Union, and four-fifths of the global population will be living in Africa or Asia."

But Brown, who is the prime minister's adviser on global finance, also quotes the American economist Larry Summers's claim that “events are 75% negative for the world, trends are 75% positive” – in other words, however bad things seem in the short term, the long term prognosis is good. There is, Brown argues, an enduring decency in human beings that cannot be stamped out however difficult the circumstances people find themselves in. “Even as disillusionment spreads, billions of us continue to live lives in search of meaning. We work, we give birth to and raise our children, attend baptisms, weddings and celebrations and find satisfaction in what seem to some small joys.” He believes this innate empathy for others shows how populism can be defeated. “Millions feel the pain of others and believe in something bigger than themselves,” Brown writes. “They feel that if they were empowered to do so they could play their part in creating a better world and would want to do so.”

At times, the former Labour prime minister's pitch sounds like a leftwing version of his Conservative successor David Cameron's Big Society. That would fill Brown with horror, but perhaps shows that the divisions between the mainstream parties are less profound than the splits between them and the populists on the extremes. Aspects of the book are predictable and feel

In government,

Brown was seen as

something of a

control freak, from

the Treasury to No 10

Gordon Brown at a community centre in Stevenage in 2009.

Adrian Dennis/WPA Pool/ Getty Images

like a rehash. It is only three years since Brown's previous text on the mess we are in: Permacrisis, written with the economists Mohammed El-Erian and Michael Spence. In his search for solutions, the Labour veteran runs through many of his favourite themes including a “fairer global tax system”, citizenship classes, constitutional reform and “a compact for development”.

The fresh element is fascinating new polling of almost 100,000 people across 45 countries that backs up Brown's thesis. Only a minority of the global population – less than one in four – sees the world as a struggle between “us” and “them”, whether the “others” be immigrants or “global elites”. Those surveyed were surprisingly hopeful about their own ability to bring about change. Asked whether they believed ordinary people could make a difference in solving big challenges including climate change and inequality, 57% said yes and only 28% said no.

When voters in the UK were asked whether they agreed or disagreed with the statement “most people are basically good and want to do the right thing,” 79% agreed. Nearly as many – 73% – said they believed it was still possible to build a better future for the next generation. The polling found that the more people interact with their neighbours and are involved in their communities the less likely they are to support a populist nationalist cause. The book concludes that, alongside economic policies that address financial insecurity, helping people get to know their neighbours could reduce the vote share for parties such as Reform UK by between 15% and 20%.

Since leaving power, Brown has taken on a range of international roles, serving as the UN special envoy for global education and the World Health Organization's ambassador for global health finance. But he has also founded a network of community donation hubs called the Multibank, which distributes goods from retailers and manufacturers to those in need. The book suggests that it is this initiative that has had the most influence on his recent thinking.

In government, Brown was seen as something of a control freak, who masterminded political events from the Treasury, then No 10. Now, he argues that “the only way to save democracy is by turning passive citizens into active citizens”. It is, he admits, a conclusion he should have reached years ago, that change will not come “from politicians making decisions from on high, from communiques or conventions or from councils or conferences”. As he puts it, it will start “at home and near to home”.

Three books on Pop music Chosen by Michael Cragg

I Want My MTV by Rob Tannenbaum and Craig Marks (2011) With a cast of

includes everyone from Janet Jackson to “Weird AI” Yankovic, I Want My MTV is a riotous, no-holds-barred oral history of the music channel's peak era of influence. Covering its slightly shonky beginnings in 1981, through to the coke-fuelled hair metal era that arrived later that decade, to its early death knell in 1992 as its dominance was threatened by video games and oversaturation, the book playfully exposes the ridiculousness of pop in the starkest of light.

The Meaning of Mariah Carey by Mariah Carey with Michaela Angela Davis (2020)

Pop lore is all about

“the journey” and no one’s route to superstardom has been more complex than golden-larynxed diva Mariah Carey. Charting her rise from a violent childhood to the predatory music industry via record-breaking successes and the inevitable crashes, it’s a book that also shines a spotlight on Mariah the songwriter: a facet of her artistry too easily ignored as the hits kept coming. It’s also wildly entertaining, full of Carey’s twinkling, camp humour and, ultimately, an unwavering resilience.

Love in the Big City by Sang Young Park, translated by Anton Hur (2021) Young, the

fun-loving yet sardonic central character in South Korean author Sang Young Park's debut novel, freewheels between smoke-filled bars and the beds of various Tinder hookups, with a little studying in between. After he contracts HIV, he decides he needs to give what's inside him a "pretty name". So, as a big fan of a certain Antipodean singer, he settles on Kylie. For Young, Kylie's name – bedazzled by her joyful pop star aura – and the escapism of pop in general, acts as both playful distraction and healing balm.

Can't Get You Out of My Head: In Search of Kylie by Michael Cragg is published by Faber

Technology

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The world that porn built

The adult industry showed how intimacy and emotion can be sold, shaping the internet in its image. By Marie Le Conte

Guilty Pleasure

Patricia Nilsson

Allen Lane, £25, pp288

Whenever porn is discussed, sides are usually swiftly taken. Is it destroying our sex lives? Is it mere entertainment? Is it inherently misogynistic, feminist, both, neither? Journalist Patricia Nilsson spends more than 200 pages discussing the industry in Guilty Pleasure, but never answers any of those questions. In a way, that's her whole point: porn always gets turned into a debate, when instead we should be focusing on the material, objective reality of it.

Her argument is that “today, pornography is no longer just about sex; its logic of capturing attention through stimulation, of keeping us watching rather than doing, is embedded in the online world”. Because of its virus-like spread, all leisure, sensual or not, has become an “endless loop of compulsive self-gratification: craving, stimulation and temporary relief”. In short: everything is porn and porn offers us nothing at all.

It's a theory she sets out skilfully. Do you enjoy online shopping? Then you should thank Babes4U, the proto-camgirl website popular in the mid-1990s, where performers would encourage their audience to part with their credit card numbers. In the words of its founder, Madeleine Altmann, “people will do crazy things for sex”.

More broadly, the demand from camgirls (and the men who love them) can be thanked for many of the features we now rely on, from high-quality videostreams to user-friendly interfaces.

Predictably, not all changes have been positive. You may have never heard of Fabien Thylmann, but you'll be aware of his work. He was once the man behind the pornography sites Pornhub, YouPorn, RedTube and several others, all of which belonged to an umbrella company charmingly called Manwin. He managed to buy all of those thanks to software he developed in the 1990s, which helped website operators track the ads and links users clicked on.

If you've ever bought something because it was recommended to you online, then Thylmann is a part of your life. Hell, if you've consumed any online content in the past few years, then you've been pulled in using techniques first developed

A camgirl for a company called Virtual Dreams in California in 1996, in the early days of the online sex industry. Paul Harris/Getty Images

by the adult industry.

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As she explains, the proliferation of smartphones and ad-blockers in the 2010s led to a loss in revenue for adult websites once reliant on banner ads. This forced porn barons to start putting the behavioural data they'd been quietly gathering to good use, both by selling it to third parties and by using it themselves to start tailoring their content further. By 2019, Pornhub had been found to be at the forefront of “data-driven creativity”, whereby studios decide what to produce and promote based on incredibly precise and granular information of what their users are drawn to, from specific sex acts to the colour of the furniture on sets.

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changes before others. As a result, Nilsson is at her most persuasive when discussing slightly more intangible shifts. She explains, for example, that “the logic of porn, which spread from tube sites across the internet, rewards intensity above all else. It doesn’t matter what you feel [...] this business model just needs you to feel more strongly about it”, which feels blatantly and pleasingly true.

She argues, convincingly, that everyone involved in the attention economy – “from influencers live streaming their tears over a loved one’s death to rage-baiting activists whipping up fury over politics” – is selling intimacy and emotion in a way that was pioneered by people having sex on camera. Though AI only gets a passing mention towards the end, she also makes the link between camgirls’ upbeat, complimentary tone – anything to

There is a chicken and egg question here: it is not always clear whether porn was the catalyst, or if the industry, by virtue of being especially online, merely happened to go through some inescapable

keep a paying customer online! – and the sycophancy of chatbots.

Some of her theories go even further. According to Nilsson, one of the main reasons behind the rise of hardcore pornography is that online audiences, their senses dulled by a life spent staring at screens, mercifully haven't all become sadists overnight, but instead crave any raw emotion they can get their hands on. As one influencer she interviews puts it, "the appeal for viewers seems to lie in knowing that something real is happening on the other side of the screen, that its effects will linger once the camera is turned off".

This is a quote about a sex worker receiving requests to self-harm on camera, but could easily apply to direct action from campaigners, furious speeches from demagogues,

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It ought to make for a depressing read, but Nilsson's observations keep you entertained

or, in the right circumstances, just about anyone talking about anything online. Early in the book, Thylmann complains about people refusing to invest in such a tawdry business. According to him, they failed to understand that “online, the content itself didn’t matter, as long as it kept people coming back”. This was perhaps true of porn then, but is certainly true of the whole internet today.

It ought to make for a depressing read but, happily, Nilsson's observations and prose always manage to keep you entertained: from Thylmann being described as sporting “a petite mohawk” when they meet, to a former FBI agent, recruited by Visa to investigate its relationship with the porn industry, being called “Dick Held”.

And then there's the Viennese tech entrepreneur trying to hurriedly sell off the porn site he owns as he's fallen in love with a Catholic woman, and wants to use the proceeds to launch "a site built on the same premise as RedTube but which swapped porn for what it claims to be the world's largest library of free Christian video content". There rarely is a dull moment in Guilty Pleasure.

In fact, Nilsson provides an antidote to the problem she identifies. The pornified internet, she argues, celebrates “stimulation without participation or fulfilment”, and is alienating, “escalatory and compulsive”. Instead, her book is substantial, enriching and enjoyable enough that it leaves you feeling sated – just like having sex, instead of merely watching it.

Fiction

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Those who leave

Trespasses author

Louise Kennedy's

playfully dark fiction

charts a young

Irishwoman's search

for acceptance and

love. By Sarah Moss

Stations

Louise Kennedy

Bloomsbury, £20, pp304

Louise Kennedy's award-winning 2022 debut, Trespasses – which was adapted into a TV mini-series last year – showed that she could sustain the beauty and precision of her short stories in a well-structured novel. It could have been a hard act to follow.

Stations has some of the same interests and qualities as Trespasses. Both books are centred on the lives of young Irishwomen in the late 20th century, are interested in women's relationships beyond the domestic sphere, and are crafted with a commitment to realist domesticity and the precise, sensory observation of material culture. But Stations allows itself to be funny and wild in a way that was naturally muted by the Troubled Belfast setting of Trespasses. Here, both the writing and the central character, Róisín, wield a playful darkness that I found deeply satisfying.

We meet Róisín as a teenager in 1982, bullied at school for her Northern Irish background and missing father. It being “prudent to be in credit” with the ringleader of her torment, Tina Doyle, Róisín passes on her messages to Red Camelin, the town’s charismatic bad boy, who is “spoken about in giddy whispers at school”. Red recognises Róisín's intelligence and matches her interest in books and music: "She liked the way he talked. Ironic, slightly formal." (This is an exemplary use of close third-person narration. We already know how Red talks because Kennedy writes excellent dialogue, and now we know Róisín's vocabulary for and taste in conversation. Such slight triangulation is exactly the point of this perspective.)

Róisín introduces Red to her single mother, her home and her history. Her father had worked for the RUC but left his home village of Crossmaglen in Northern Ireland in a hurry, bringing his wife and daughter into a community in the Republic where they would never be fully accepted, before then succumbing to PTSD and leaving them. Fiction of Irish family life is often deeply interested in silence and denial –

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Stations allows itself to be funny in a way that was muted for the Troubled Belfast setting of Trespasses

which comes up later in the book – and Róisín's straightforwardness is refreshing. She's also sweary and sceptical, all qualities generally and iconoclastically appreciated by her mother, Una.

Red enchants Una with his prodigious charm and poorly concealed vulnerability. It's widely known though rarely said that Red's father is abusive to his wife and sons, a problem recognised by his teachers in their willingness to persuade the local Garda to treat Red's low-level criminality with mercy. Róisín, dazzled by Red's

reading and repartee, barely notices his troubles and is impressed by the drink and drugs he offers her. She falls in love. He seems ambivalent, unable if not entirely unwilling to reciprocate for reasons that will emerge only many years afterwards.

They meet again two years later, in London at Christmas, after Róisín has fled her father's new home in outrage after discovering that he and his new partner have a baby. She turns up on the doorstep of "the last squat in Pimlico" (those were the days), to find Red living in glamorous dereliction-verging-on-squalor in a large Georgian terrace shared with other young Irish people. These are the years when the English construction industry depended on Irish workers, and conservatism and poverty were driving a generation to leave Ireland. At the same time, IRA bombings fuelled long-standing English prejudice against the Irish. Kennedy handles this moment and setting lightly and with conviction: no extraneous explanation and no baffling assumptions. Especially for an international readership, that's a fine line, achieved as much by the full literary realisation of the fictional world as by dropping information into interior monologue.

As Red falls into drug dealing and then addiction, Róisín follows her own less destructive instincts: she has dropped out of university, is mostly avoiding contact with her mother, and is drifting between low-paid jobs. However, even though she doesn't recognise it as a strength, she is good at building relationships. Most of those she encounters – in the squat, at work and in pubs – like and want to protect her.

The novel's thinnest writing is the English characters Róisín encounters in London. There is Octavia, who lives with her aristocratic father in a gentrified

Fiction

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A mimmoth undertaking

Naomi Alderman's inventive blend of fiction and memoir balances personal loss with the discovery of a wondrous new species. By Ellen Peirson-Hagger

The Strangers Naomi Alderman Fig Tree, £20, pp288

Naomi Alderman's latest book is a marvel of imagination and an emotional thump. Part speculative fiction, part memoir, it follows a novelist named Naomi Alderman in the months after her mother's death. To aid her father in his grief, she helps him set up cameras in his garden to capture images of wildlife.

As well as coming across glimpses of foxes, as expected, they find what turns out to be a brand-new species. The animal is a mammal with four feet, eyes on the front of its head and a snout that is “narrow and tube-like, curious and soft”.

The creature comes to be known as the mimmoth, from “mini mammoth”, and is soon spotted across the UK and, indeed, the world. No one knows where the mimmoths came from or what they want, but they are widely regarded as intelligent creatures, content to get on with eating rats and pigeons and proceeding, quite wonderfully, in dances: “They raced towards the centre of the circle they’d made. Stepped to the left. Stepped to the right in an orderly and hypnotic rhythm... If there were more than

one, then at points they intertwined their trunks and danced in a circle together, taking little hops and skips." So long as humans do not disturb them, they do not disturb us.

Despite this, rightwingers inevitably begin to rage against the mimmoths; some shoot or try to capture them. Yet following their discovery in the UK, human life expectancy goes up. Later, Alderman gets involved with an amusingly

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The animal is a mammal with a snout that is ‘narrow and tube-like, curious and soft’

shifty environmental government official who presents evidence suggesting that everywhere a mimmoth has been killed, women have been unable to conceive.

Ever since beginning this novel, the analytical part of my brain has been trying to determine what Alderman – the bestselling author of science-fiction works including The Power and The Future – is using the mimmoth as a metaphor for. Is it grief – that debilitating feeling that arrives as a shock, but which soon feels familiar? Is it a stand-in for AI or the future technologies we most fear? Or a statement on our culpability in the climate crisis? I have since decided this sort of explicit decoding misses the point. This surprising, poignant book lurks in a world far stranger – that is, far more human

Dealing in the sacred and the profane: Louise Kennedy.

Ellius Grace/ The New York Times/ Redux/eyevine

– than such a straightforward message could ever offer.

As Alderman narrates the world's response to the mimmoths' existence with bewildered excitement, she too takes us closer into her autobiography – the Orthodox Judaism with which she grew up and has since renounced, her multiple pregnancy losses, and her often strained

relationship with her mother, particularly regarding her mother's treatment of Alderman's weight. Her disclosures balance eloquence with a damning matter-of-factness. "My shape, the rightness or wrongness of it, had been a deep wound between me and my mother all the house near the squat and buys drugs from Red but also considers him a friend. Octavia wears tweed and silk slippers, appears “sepia-tinted, like one of the last Tsar’s daughters”, and will later own a very grand interiors shop in central Bath. And there is Guy, whom Róisín meets while doing data entry in the bank where he works in mergers and acquisitions. He turns out to have studied PPE at Oxford with Octavia and introduces Róisín to his parents in Henley on “a lawn, truly velvety” with “men in Panama hats and cricket caps popping open bottles, women in Laura Ashley frocks unpacking gingham-lined hampers on to squares of Black Watch and Stewart tartan, the water glittering behind them.” These characters are beautifully observed, the details of clothing and possessions meticulously realised, but they are caricatures in a novel otherwise lovably invested in the complex, contradictory humanity of parents, teachers, addicts and dealers, homeless men, bullies and their victims, those who can’t go home and those who can’t leave.

This is something of a quest novel – Róisín spends much of the second half trying to find Red – and something of a romance, with everyone looking for love. Endings are tricky for realist novels with strong plots, because in real life there are few plots and far more loose ends than endings, but Kennedy finds a way to offer her readers resolution without a trace of disingenuity.

The title of Trespasses pointed towards the sacred and the profane, the trespass of crossing boundaries without authorisation and the trespasses for which the Lord's Prayer asks forgiveness. Readers might look for a similar double meaning here. Victoria Station is a crux, where the Dublin coaches come and go, and – in the days before Ryanair – through which most Irish emigrants pass. London is mapped by stations, metaphorical and literal stopping places, but there are also the stations of the cross in the background, places where we stop to remember suffering. In some ways a novel of faith and sorrow, Stations is a triumph of realist fiction.

days of my life," she writes at the start of one chapter. More than 80 pages later she writes, even more painfully: "The loss of my mother is a clean wound already beginning to knit, but the loss of my babies goes on bleeding."

In the most straightforward reading of the book's title, the strangers are the mimmoths. Yet Alderman quickly develops a fondness for them, and soon she knows them intimately; one regular visitor to the garden even embraces her, using its proboscis to stroke her hand. Those strangers could just as well be Alderman and her mother, or indeed all of us humans, forever unknown to one another, before death comes to a loved one and we sit around wondering where the time went.

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Paperback of the week By Chris Power

British readers are given

a belated introduction to the

unique mind of writer Mary

Ruefle in a funny, surprising

and beautiful prose collection

Golden Crumbs

Mary Ruefle

Fitzcarraldo, £14.99, pp264

A quick way of deciding if Mary Ruefle is for you is to read her story The Bark in full: "I took my dog to the lake, he stood at the water's edge and barked, the echo of his bark came back and he barked at it, again and again he barked at his own echo, thinking there was another dog on the other side of the lake. Welcome to poetry, I said." If you find those 53 words as irresistible as I do, you're going to get a lot from Golden Crumbs.

Since the 1980s, Ruefle has published 20 books of poetry and prose in the US, none of which have been available in British editions until now. Golden Crumbs collects three of these – The Most of It (2008), My Private Property (2016) and The Book (2023) – that contain work lying somewhere between the prose poem, the essay and the short story. Ruefle is relaxed about the bleed between these forms; when an interviewer asked where she draws the lines between them, she replied: "If I'm being frank, I just don't have enough time left on this earth to spend doing that."

Her work is funny, surprising, melancholy and beautiful. It veers between inventive slants on mundanity (an encounter with a street-cleaning truck) and altogether more high-concept ideas (a land overrun by clouds). Her nearest neighbours, I would say, are Lydia Davis, Donald Barthelme, and Italo Calvino. Like each of them, she is an experimental writer in the truest sense: she constantly tries stuff out and it might not always work. But when it does you experience the thrill of feeling new ground being broken.

Here is a book that offers great lessons in how little is needed to create drama. While noteworthy things do sometimes happen – a house flood, the death of a friend, a police interview – other pieces summon their urgency from a misremembered haiku, the sight

GOLDEN CRUMBS

MARY RUEFLE

of Christmas decorations, or the wind scattering the remnants of a torn-up letter in a bush.

Sometimes she starts with what might have been a mistake, either deliberate or manufactured. "My father was a diary farmer," one begins, a sentence my spellchecking software was desperate to correct. Ruefle runs with the conceit, the farm she describes possessing a herd of a hundred diaries, four journals and "a small cache of notebooks for our own personal use".

Some of the ideas found in Golden Crumbs are undoubtedly products of a unique mind. In certain cases, though, the germinating thought is commonplace, something that might occur to anyone. What distinguishes Ruefle in these instances is that she continues to think about such small moments, the kind that most of us allow to be washed away in the torrent of information that flows around us each minute of our lives. By saving these scraps of detritus from oblivion, and focusing the beam of her attention on them, she finds hidden doors within the everyday.

The irony inherent in her project is that what she saves from being forgotten becomes, in turn, something else to forget, one of her recurrent obsessions being with how little we retain of what we read. In My Memory of a Story By Lydia Davis I Read Years Ago and Never Forgot, Davis's 12-page story Sketches for a Life of Wassilly shrinks to just 70 words. "This was simply a personal exercise in literary memory," Ruefle writes in a note at the end of the book, "one I failed in every way. But" – she continues, drawing a conclusion that's not despairing, as mine would have been without the benefit of her perspective, and instead full of wonder – "it proved what I have always suspected – we remember nothing of what we have read and loved, only that we loved it. Love is what remains of our reading life. Try it yourself, and good luck!"

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Children's books of the month

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The wyrd and the wonderful

Autumn's chapter books for children embrace the thrill and chill of Halloween with tales of ghosts, demi-gods, doppelgangers and families in peril. By Kitty Empire

It's the eve of the spooky season. Paradoxically, Halloween feels less like an annual publishing event now that scary books are distributed throughout the year, as cosier forms of horror trickle down to the middle years age group.

But the call of the “wyrd” remains. Salem-based YA author Freddie Kölsch makes her middle-years debut with Spindlewood (Puffin, £8.99), the first in a series. Gleefully gothic, it successfully channels Lemony Snicket and Wednesday, making use of a familiar remote school setting. Non-binary and neurodiverse students bring a fresh vibe to this Hogwartsian redoubt.

Rationalist Lilac Black is shocked to discover that ghosts exist, that her family are “seers” and that she must be packed off to Spindlewood School post-haste. Lilac has been faking her “sight”, however, and must navigate the uncanny academy on her wits lest she be expelled with her mind wiped. In the midst of a school crisis that, Lilac realises, involves her ancestors, she is forced to confide her secret to her maybe-crush, Emmanuelle.

Prolific UK author Darren Simpson has a very different take on spooky: Lykewise (Pushkin, £8.99) is folk horror, set in a

Master of mythical monsters Rick 'Percy Jackson' Riordan is back once again

remote fen. There is zero snark here, as the foggy, boggy village of Harrowmere welcomes a mysterious travelling mirror salesman.

Naturally, a trio of young friends joke about the ceremony they hear about, where standing between two mirrors might reveal your true self. Imprudent Hetty goes through with it. And yes, she unleashes a Jungian shadow called a “lykewise”, who acts out her most vengeful inclinations. This tense book about the latent evildoer in us all is

Eerie pleasures (clockwise from near left): The Wild Zone, scenes from Girl With a Sabretooth Tiger, and Spindlewood.

Sonia Albert/Virginia

Allyn/ Jay Bendt

probably one for year 6 and above, thanks to some gore.

Less overtly eerie is The Raven's Gift (Starboard, £14.99) by Kiran Millwood Hargrave. The protagonists are young teens and the subject matter is often heavy, but Tom de Freston's lavish illustrations land this book in middle years.

becomes alarmed when she discovers her dad is not, in fact, visiting her grandma's care home. The hunt for the truth sends anxious Luna, her skateboarding sister Jade and pal Casey venturing into the unknown – in this case, a dump by a river – where Luna's doggedness results in an unexpected discovery.

Overcoming fear remains a theme for all seasons. Girl With a Sabretooth Tiger (Chicken House,

£7.99) is the latest from award winner Jasbinder Bilan, an immersive quest set in neolithic Europe that is pitched younger than Michelle Paver's evergreen Chronicles of Ancient Darkness series.

Eleven-year-old Swallow is enraptured by the myths of her tribe. She will have to call on all the power of her sabre-toothed

tiger pendant as she sneaks out of camp to track down a piece of healing jadeite from a faraway mountain that might save her sister's life. But is it just a legend? Bilan's prehistoric setting is vivid, as is her commitment to weaving the spirit world into her young hero's reality.

From:

Date:

Subject:

To:

5 Jun at 09:40

Re: Your Vitsoe order

email@vitsoe.com

Hi Andrea,

Harry's sister Frankie has died, and the family is in a tailspin. Harry discovers that Frankie was feeding a raven from her bedroom window and making notes in her Edgar Allan Poe compendium; gradually he grows closer to her. Harry's recovery is not linear. He makes a pass at his sister's best friend. His dreams are disorienting. But the book is all the better for its poignant verisimilitude, and Hargrave is terrific at relaying the inappropriate emotion and clumsy compensation that is familial grief.

I've been meaning to send a brief follow-up. Thank you again for sending the tools/instructions to my address here in Montreal, end April.

Fear takes many forms, not all supernatural. In SE Durrant's Into Thin Air (Nosy Crow, £7.99) a stressed-out dad disappears. Since their cafe failed, Luna's

The shelves finally went up in early May, after eagerly waiting to do so since mid-March. And I love them!

Thank you again,

I love how the shelves have felt truly different in every flat, every city, I've installed them in. Stellar Vitsoe service, as always. Very much appreciated.

(Photo attached of the shelves in place, if curious; they're dividing sleeping/living area in my studio app.)

Master of mythical monsters Rick “Percy Jackson” Riordan is back once again. The latest series in his Greek myth universe returns to Camp Half-Blood, introducing a new set of characters. Co-written with Annabelle Oh, The Wild Zone (Puffin, £16.99) features a Korean-American protagonist, Katie Kim, whose cabin-mates are forced to run with her through the Wild Zone at the camp’s edge, despite the peril-infested forest being off-limits.

parents have

been working

all hours, but

groceries are scant.

When one of them doesn't make it through, Katie is forced to mount a clandestine rescue operation. As ever, Riordan's works are full of action and wise-cracking, before a breadcrumb trail of hints leads to a cliffhanger ending that is truly gasp-worthy.

Luna, until now

obsessed with the

International

Space Station,

The books interview

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Yiyun Li 'Death is not unfamiliar to me'

The Chinese-born

author on losing

her sons to suicide

and why she took

piano lessons in

order to write

her new novel. By

Ellen Peirson-Hagger

Yiyun Li, 53, is an author and professor at Princeton University. Born in Beijing, China, she moved to the US in 1996 and writes exclusively in English. Her books include the story collection A Thousand Years of Good Prayers, the novels Where Reasons End and The Book of Goose, and the memoir Things in Nature Merely Grow, which won a Pulitzer prize in 2026. Her latest novel is Music Against the Night, a fictionalised telling of the early lives of John Field, a composer born in Ireland in 1782, and his wife, Adelaide Percheron, born in 1790 in Pondicherry, French colonial India, who also dreamed of becoming a musician. It is due to be the first in a trilogy.

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How did you first learn about John Field?

I met him in Tolstoy's book. Tolstoy wrote a three-volume autobiography and the first volume is of his childhood. He described listening to his mother playing John Field. He described the mood, the colour, the dream shape of the music. I'd never heard of John Field. I thought: who is he?

What about him intrigued you? I found one very thin volume of John Field's biography. It was how little his wife was featured in the biography that made me think: this is interesting. There are no more than maybe five paragraphs about Adelaide Percheron, or Percherette, and yet we knew that she was born in Pondicherry and she travelled to Moscow. She wanted to be a musician. That was a compelling storyline. I thought: the two lives will be my subjects.

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You begin with Percherette learning of John's death, before taking us back in time. Why start there?

It's important for the readers to know where John Field ends. He almost made it – he is a minor celebrity, but not immortal like Mozart or Chopin or Beethoven. And she, of course, is not known to anyone these days. I'm sure her music was all lost. It's interesting when you know the future, and yet there's still a path for them to live through. That's different from real life: we don't know our futures; we have to live to find them. But here, I know the end. The readers know the end. It's important for us to start on the same page.

What was your research process? I did tonnes of reading about musicians, the pianoforte industry, music publishing... Pondicherry history is another story. I don't know if this says anything about how much we forget history, but while everybody knows the English were in India, very few people know about French India. I did a lot of research about that. And of course about Moscow. But my biggest undertaking was to start piano lessons.

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Tell me more.

I'm not a musician. I don't have a music background. Early on, I thought: if I want to do this, I need to know how to play the piano. I went to a teacher and at first she wasn't keen – she usually doesn't take adult students. Then I auditioned with a book proposal. I said: "I'm going to write about these people, which means I need to know music." She was impressed, so she took me.

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How did you find learning a new skill as an adult?

When I told my editor, she said: "My God, you're going into method." It is good to know there's something you do really poorly. Of course, I want to play nicely, but I feel little pressure because I know I'm never going to be as good as those kids going to lessons. But there's something about knowing what John and Percherette were doing at the beginning, playing scales... it was important for me to mimic their movement on the keyboard. My teacher gave me a John Field nocturne to try, and, I mean, I'm not yet good enough, but I am playing. I'm playing Clementi at the moment, and Czerny.

Yiyun Li

photographed

in Princeton by

Maria Spann for

The Observer.

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THE OBSERVER Shop

All books available at observershop.co.uk

Observer

subscribers

receive a

20% discount

as part of

Culture Club

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Why did you focus on your characters' childhoods?

I was talking to another novelist, who said: “Why bother with their childhood? Just launch them as adults.” But that is against everything I feel as a person. It’s important for us to grow up with John and Percherette, to know how it feels to be in their little bodies.

Are there enough good portrayals of childhood in contemporary literature? No. I wonder if it reflects our society. When my children were in pre-school, the teacher wrote a letter complaining about a news story. She said: "All the newspapers talk about children's education as preparation for their life, but a three-year-old is living her life as much as you all are." That's such a great way to put it. There's a certain neglect of how children are real people. It's important to treat children as real people, rather than pre-people.

You have written about your own suicide attempts, as well as the suicides of your sons Vincent, who was 16 when he died in 2017, and James, who was 19 when he died in 2024. Does writing offer you an escape from trauma?

Certainly, my life is not easy. When I was working on Music Against the Night – I know it sounds horrendously preposterous, but I don't think it's preposterous

– I said to my best friend: “I’ve written every single thing I know about life into this novel.” So I don’t think it’s an escape, but it’s a place to think through life, framed by someone else’s experience. Death is not unfamiliar to me. But the writing of the novel has sustained me.

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You previously said you are against the word "grief". How do you feel about it now?

One thing I have learned is you can never say you're at the end of something because there's always something that comes after that end. In a personal way, of course, we don't have our children any more. In that sense, it's never going to change, and I don't shy away from that fact [even though] sometimes people feel tentative around me. Grief is going to be for ever and ever. But there is also an intellectual way of thinking: we're not trapped in the moment Vincent died, and we're not trapped in the moment James died. I am observing how time passes in my life, how it passes in a different way than in most people's lives.

Yiyun Li's Music Against the Night is published by Fourth Estate on 22 October (£20)

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[Puzzles] Guess the picture by Laura Cumming

This week's question: What and by whom (above)? Answer next Sunday.

Last week's detail showed the chair at the left of the Danish painter Vilhelm Hammershoi's Interior from the Home of the Artist, circa 1900. The quietude of Hammershoi's art is unique. Content to wander through the same few whitewashed rooms day after day, year after year, he paints the perfect silence of the Copenhagen apartment he barely left. The rooms, with their bare floors and polished furniture, are pointedly empty. The doors open only on to other doors and rooms beyond. Even the windows look on to other windows, or walls of opaque light. There is no opening out into the world, and even Hammershoi's wife is barely visible. The artist said that it was only at home in this apartment that he ever felt happy. This picture is in the Finnish National Gallery.

Cinema Connect

Each week we show three stills. Guess the films in question and the female historical figure who connects them. (Bonus point if you can put them in chronological order.)

Set by Killian Fox Answers on page 39

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Postcode

Five correct entries, drawn at random, will each win a £15 book token.

Post: Everyman No. 4,172, The Observer, 22 Berners Street, London W1T 3LP.

Email: competitions@observer.co.uk. Attach a photo or scan of your completed grid, or list answers by clue number (e.g. 1A: TiCS). The subject line must match the puzzle name and number in print (e.g. Everyman No. 4,172), or the entry will not be accepted.

Online and email entries close on the Saturday after publication. Postal entries must be postmarked by the Saturday after publication and arrive within ten days of publication.

Winners are usually announced on the Sunday two weeks after publication in print and in Caitlin O'Kane's Puzzles Observer newsletter. One entry per person. Full T&Cs: https://observer.co.uk/puzzles/everyman/article/crossword-prize-draws

Sudoku classic

Fill in the blank cells using the numbers 1 to 9. | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 1 | 3 | 6 | 1 | 8 | 1 | 3 | 8 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 2 | 5 | 7 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 9 | 5 | 1 | 6 | 8 | 4 | Each number must appear just once in every row, column and 3x3 box.

SOLUTION No. 4,171

Everyman No. 4,170

K Geary, Norfolk

Alastair Nixon, Surrey

Sarah Ryder, Sheffield

Martin Watson, Ayr

Peter Woodcock, Sheffield

Filled

Caitlin O'Kane's Puzzles Observer newsletter marks its first anniversary

Get the best of The Observer, straight to your your inbox

Vertical lines

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Azed No. 2,784 - Plain

| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | Name | Address | Post code

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Across

4 What may have been wielded by shipmen, right? (9, 2 words)

11 Dandy/rake, right to left, neither first, in Gregorian cadence (6)

12 Procession, notice, in trim (6)

14 See wanton opening fantastic legs to writhe (8)

15 Driver avoiding circling the majority of ridges (4)

16 Declare singular turns relation left out (7)

17 A copycat turns revealing personality's innermost part (5)

19 Fairy or tube worm? Not so (7)

22 Oilman abroad in foreign city (6)

24 'Salve', following a R, i.e. 'scare off' (6)

26 Nautical cord e.g. twisted with open arm (7)

27 Tipples one bottled? These ones are different (from E. India) (5)

29 Stir uneasily in plot of a brownish hue (7)

32 Measure luminous appearance, not gold (4)

33 Run isn't common in the sea (8)

34 Story going about in Israel (6)

35 Behaves in accordance with son in stuffed jacket (6, 2 words)

36 Adolescent about staggerin', like the avenue? (9)

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The Chambers Dictionary (2016) is recommended.

Azed No. 2,783 solution & notes | $^{1}$ O | $^{2}$ R | $^{3}$ C | $^{4}$ H | E | $^{5}$ S | $^{6}$ T | $^{7}$ R | A | $^{8}$ T | $^{9}$ O | R | $^{10}$ W | H | E | A | T | M | E | A | L | O | L | $^{11}$ F | R | Y | D | D | $^{12}$ R | I | N | G | S | I | D | E | $^{13}$ A | N | U | R | A | L | A | W | $^{14}$ G | L | E | N | $^{15}$ P | E | L | O | T | A | $^{16}$ C | O | H | E | R | E | $^{17}$ R | O | A | M | $^{18}$ S | $^{19}$ X | E | R | $^{20}$ O | T | E | S | $^{21}$ A | U | $^{22}$ T | E | U | $^{23}$ R | $^{24}$ S | $^{25}$ T | U | $^{26}$ A | R | T | $^{27}$ S | $^{28}$ T | E | R | N | E | $^{29}$ T | A | T | T | $^{30}$ L | E | $^{31}$ C | A | N | G | R | A | R | $^{32}$ D | R | O | O | L | $^{33}$ A | P | O | S | I | T | I | C | A | C | R | L | L | P | U | $^{34}$ A | S | A | F | E | T | I | D | A | $^{35}$ H | A | R | V | E | S | T | F | E | A | S | T | Across: 12, cf. bard hop; 20, ur(n) ge(n); 34, s(E)al(E)mon.

Down: 2, reste(D) in PL; 3, ear + end in defers; 4, (d)ecod(e); 17, dec(ay) in spark; 21, 'jock, O so'; 28, go re.

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Rules and requests

Open to UK residents aged 18 or over. Enter by post or email; digital subscribers may also enter online at observer.co.uk/puzzles.

Three correct entries, drawn at random, will each win a £25 book token.

Post: Azed No. 2,784, The Observer, 22 Berners Street, London W1T 3LP Enclose your completed grid with your name and address.

Email: competitions@observer.co.uk. Attach a photo or scan of your grid, or list answers by clue number (e.g. 1A: TICS). The subject line must match the puzzle name and number in print (e.g. "Azed No. 2,784"), or entry cannot be accepted.

Online and email entries close on the Saturday after publication. Postal entries must be postmarked by the Saturday after publication and arrive within ten days of publication.

Azed No. 2,784 winners are announced on Sunday 1 November 2026. One entry per person.

Full T&Cs: observer.co.uk/puzzles/everyman/article/crossword-prize-draws

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Azed No. 2,783 prizewinners

R Ainslie, Montpellier, Cheltenham

C Clarke, prize awaits; please confirm by email

D Preston, Barnstaple, Devon

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Killer by Godefridus | 18 | 17 | 17 | 19 | 7 | 21 | 24 | 28 | 6 | 9 | 16 | 14 | 9 | 15 | 25 | 7 | 26 | 15 | 9 | 21 | 18 | 7 | 25 | 13 | 19 | Normal Sudoku rules apply, except the numbers in the cells contained within grey lines add up to the figures in the corner. No number can be repeated within each shape formed by the grey lines.

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[Chess by Jonathan Speelman] Diagram 1

Many congratulations to 11-year-old Bodhana Sivanandan, whose excellent performance on board one for England in Samarkand has made her the youngest women's grandmaster in history. Here in her previous play, Bodhana had established massive dark-square control, and she now cashed in with 25 h3 Bf5 26 Nxf5 gxf5 27 Qe6+ Kg6. Can you see the beautifully effective way she finished off? (See the end.)

Uzbekistan won the 46th Olympiad on home soil, beating Ukraine in the final round last Sunday in Samarkand to finish with 20/22 match points - 10 wins and a single loss to Germany. They were followed by India and Germany, both on 18 match points, in that order on tie-break.

It was a superb performance in which Uzbekistan played and beat all their main rivals, most notably USA, India and China. Three of their players won board medals, with Nodirbek Abdusattorov on board one achieving the best rating performance of all, 2869, ahead of Turkey's teenage sensation Yağız Kaan Erdoğanş, 2839, and India's Rameshbabu Praggnanandhaa, 2772. On board two, world championship challenger Javokhir Sindarov was third, behind Wei Yi (China) and Jorden Van Foreest (Netherlands). On board three Nodirbek Yakubboev was second to Frederik Svane (Germany). England (seeded eleventh) had a decent tournament, finishing ninth on 16 match points. Our best performance came from Luke McShane, who finished fifth on board four, resting just once for an unbeaten 7.5/10, including a victory against India's Nihal Sarin.

Ranked 60th, Scotland came 64th equal with 12 match points. On top board, Freddie Gordon scored an excellent 6/9. Wales (ranked 100th) and the (united) Ireland (ranked 66th) finished in the same score group on 12/22.

China dominated the parallel women's Olympiad, finishing unbeaten with 20/22 match points, ahead of Kazakhstan 20 and India, who got the bronze, plus four more teams on 17.

Seeded 20th, England were 12th equal. On top board, 11-year-old Bodhana Sivanandan played in every game, scoring a splendid 8/11 with six wins, four draws and just a single loss. Her play has matured greatly this year and it will be fascinating to follow her progress over the coming years.

Abdusattorov's performance was extraordinary: an unbeaten 8.5/11 with former world champion Ding Liren and Fabiano Caruana among his six victims.

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Diagram 2

29...f4? Presumably in the belief that White can't capture on e5. 29...h6 was the best chance, as 30 Rxe5? can be met by Bxf3 – now possible because White can't counter 31 Rg5. Instead 30 b5 Ba8 is extremely complicated, though computers do really like White.

30 Rxe5! Rd2 If 30...Bxf3? 31 Rg5! or 30...Rxf3 31 Re6 Qxe6 32 Rxe6 Rxf2 33 Kxf2 and the pawns should decide.

31 R5e2 Rd1 32 b5 Bb7 33 Bb4

Abdusattorov was now in full control and won with just a little care. 33...h6 34 c5 Qb1 35 Rb2 Qc1 36 c6 Rxe1+

37 Bxe1 Rd1 38 Re2 Bc8 39 Kh2 Kh7 40 Re5 Bf5 41 Qc5 Bc2 42 c7 Rxe1 43 Rxe1 Qxe1 44 Qxc2+ g6 45 Qe4 Preventing the perpetual check, so Ding resigned.

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Diagram 3

36 h4 gxh4+?! Perfectly playable, but now the king gets in. 36...Rb4 37 hxg5 Rdd4 obviously needed to be checked carefully but in fact after eg 38 Kh4 Rxg4+ 39 Kh5 Kf7 40 g6+ Kf8 41 f6 Rh4+ 42 Kg5 Rhg4+ 43 Kf5 gxf6 White's king is as exposed as Blacks and it's a draw. 37 Kxh4 Rd3 38 Rfe3 Kf8 39 Kh5 a5 40 Re7 Rxb3? The decisive mistake, because now either White's king is able to settle on g6 or he gains a decisive tempo. 40...Rh3+! 41 Kg5 Rxb3 42 Rc7 Rh3! 43 Ree7 Rh7 looks a bit manky but should hold. 41 g5 Rb6 42 g6 Threatening Rf7+ followed by Ree7 42...Rf6 43 Kg5 Kg8 If 43...a4 44 Rh2 Kg8 45 Rh7! 44 Rxg7+! Kxg7 45 Re7+ Kg8 46 Kxf6 a4 47 Rg7+ Kh8 48 Rxb7 Ra8

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Diagram 4

49 Kg5 And Caruana resigned because of 49...a3 50 f6 a2 51 Rh7+ Kg8 52 f7+ Kf8 53 Rh8+ Ke7 54 Rxa8

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In diagram 1 after

25 h3 Bf5 If 25...Bf126 Qe6 is mate at once or 25...g5 26 hxg4 gxh4 27 Qe6+ Kg6 28 Qf5+ Kf7 29 Qxh5 mate. 26 Nxf5 gxf5 27 Qe6+ Kg6 28 g4! fxg4 29 hxg4 hxg4 30 Qxg4+ Kh6 The deadly retreat. 31 Ba3! created the unanswerable threat of 32 Bc1 mate so Black resigned.

Sivanandan (to play) v Deborah Quickpen

2 Nodirbek

Abdusattorov v

Ding Liren (to play)

3 N Abdusattorov (to play) v Fabiano Caruana

4 N Abdusattorov (to play) v Fabiano Caruana

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Lexipedia Quiz: on censorship by Joshua Blackburn

1. What was the original Latin meaning of the word "censor"?

A) Magistrate

B) Pencil

C) Obstacle

D) Short sword

2. Which work was not banned by the Catholic church?

A) Justine (Marquis de Sade)

B) Mein Kampf (Adolf Hitler)

C) Les Misérables (Victor Hugo)

D) The History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire (Edward Gibbon)

3. A literary work that has been stripped of offensive content is said to have been what?

A) Cauterised

B) Euphemised

C) Bowdlerised

D) Pasteurised

4. What word means "the deliberate destruction of books"?

A) Biblioclasm

B) Bookicide

C) Verbination

D) Textecution

5. Which US state banned the most books in 2025?

A) Florida

B) Georgia

C) Utah

D) California

6. Heresy – beliefs contrary to orthodox doctrine – derives from the Greek hairesis, meaning what?

A) Making a mistake

B) Walking the wrong way

C) Choosing for oneself

D) Spoiling food (eg by oversalting)

Lucky dip bonus question

7. What is the error code for online content blocked for legal reasons, such as censorship, court orders or copyright claims?

A) Error 001

B) Error 123

C) Error 451

D) Error 999

Answers below

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A word about... Banned books

Today marks the start of Banned Books Week, during which the American Library Association reveals how many titles have been challenged and banned in US libraries and schools in the last 12 months. This annual fixture has been running for more than 40 years and it tells a bleak story. In 2000, according to the ALA, 378 titles were challenged for library removal. This number crept down over the next two decades, but in 2021 it soared: 1,858 were challenged for removal that year; 2,571 in 2022; and in 2025, 4,235 – the second highest in the history of Banned Books Week. A challenge doesn’t necessarily lead to a ban, but in 2025, 66% of challenges resulted in libraries removing the offending title.

Of course, book bans are nothing new. It took less than 50 years from the invention of the printing press around 1440 for the first book to be banned – Giovanni Pico della Mirandola's 900 Theses, in 1487. Here, the authority doing the banning was the Catholic church,

which became a dab hand at banning books. For just over 400 years, the Vatican's Index Librorum Prohibitorum (Index of Prohibited Books) was the Church's official blacklist. When it was finally retired in 1966 it contained about 4,300 entries, including works by Descartes, Kante, Locke, Rousseau, Voltaire and more (but nothing, surprisingly, by Charles Darwin).

Here in the UK we might congratulate ourselves for not being the book-banning types, Section 28 notwithstanding – but don’t be complacent. In recent years, British librarians have noticed a rising number of requests to remove books, particularly those exploring LGBTQ+ issues. They might not face the same pressures as the ALA, but we must remain vigilant. As the ALA says: “Protect the freedom to read.”

Joshua Blackburn is the author of The Language-Lover's Lexipedia (Bloomsbury, £14.99). Order for £13.49 from observershop.co.uk. Delivery charges may apply

Goldilocks SOLUTION No.44

Scan to subscribe to Caitlin O'Kane's Puzzles Observer – the weekly newsletter from our puzzles editor

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Goldilocks crossword No. 45

Not too hard. Not too easy. Just right.

Goldilocks clues exclude enumerations; in a mid-sized crossword, they only make an already compact puzzle more straightforward. The enjoyment lies in lateral thinking, grid observations, and the distinctly modern British vernacular. Play the Goldilocks archive online by subscribing at observer.co.uk | $^1$ T | $^2$ S | $^3$ P | $^4$ S | | $^5$ G | $^6$ E | $^7$ S | $^8$ T | $^9$ E | E | R | Y | $^{10}$ U | D | O | N | $^{11}$ M | O | O | N | $^{12}$ L | I | G | H | T | $^{13}$ P | U | D | $^{14}$ A | L | B | | $^{15}$ E | L | U | $^{16}$ C | I | D | A | $^{17}$ T | $^{18}$ E | | $^{19}$ C | A | R | $^{20}$ S | I | N | $^{21}$ A | $^{22}$ N | E | C | D | $^{23}$ O | T | E | S | $^{24}$ P | O | R | T | | $^{25}$ B | O | R | U | $^{26}$ D | E | S | I | $^{27}$ I | N | S | E |

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Across

1 Joanna Lumley show, for short

6 Silent agreement

9 "Me too!"

10 Egg cells

11 Paul, Linda & Stella

13 Hollyoaks character Wilson

14 Wails

15 Farrow & Ball product

17 Michael of Monty Python fame

19 Greek goddess of mischief

22 Award that might be a piece of cake to earn?

24 Former Spurs star Heung-Min

25 The 02, e.g.

26 Explosive initials

27 Proper lads?

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Down

1 Genre of satisfying videos, for short

2 Mouth, in Spanish

3 Totally wipe out

4 Q&A session on Reddit

5 Luxury accessory first conceived on an airplane napkin

6 Response to "no offense"

7 Where one's dough might grow

8 "Oh my \_!"

12 Number of literary little soldier boys

16 It's all around us

17 "Ahem" relative

18 Loads

20 Location where 22-Across is awarded

21 Lover and Reputation, for Swift

23 \_ You Being Served?

Big Apple Sudoku by Godefridus

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outlawed.

Every row, column, and $3 \times 3$ box must contain the digits 1-9, plus an extra twist - the four highlighted $3 \times 3$ blue squares together form an additional set of boxes, which must also include 1-9 with no repeats

4. A) Biddloclast The destruction of vandalism of books is known as biblioclasm. Related to this is the noun “schools” (a pallindrome of “books” - that is, a stock of books associated in order to be destroyed, primarily as an arbitrary statement. 5. (A) Florida According to the American Liberty Association, Florida cholesterol and dance book of any U state in 2025. In fact, Florida challenged multiple books (3), 711 than other 49 combined. 6. (C) Choosing for oneself the Latin words from, which we get the English word “heresy”, derives from Greek harsels, meaning to take or choose for oneself in Latin, the word originally meant a particular school or thought of a religious sect. 7. (C Error 451 The code is named after Ray Bradbury's novel Farenheift 451, which takes place in a dystopian word where books are

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Staying in

Audio

Obama, Hanks and the evolution of manhood

Miranda Sawyer

Understand: Seven Ages of Man

BBC Radio 4/BBC Sounds

A Great Book with Barack

Obama Higher Ground

Please Don't BBC Sounds

For Radio 4's Understand strand, cosy poet Michael Rosen is working his way through the Seven Ages of Man. The former children's laureate, well known to the station's listeners as the host of Word of Mouth, nearly died from coronavirus in 2020 and, he said, emerged from his illness with a few questions about mortality and the nature of being a man. Hence these programmes, in which we meet interesting, articulate men in particular decades of their lives:

Michael Palin, Colm Tóibín, David Baddiel, Vittorio Angelone and more.

We start with eightysomething Palin and work down to being in your 20s, with comedian Angelone. Although Palin is always a delight, and Baddiel thoroughly entertaining, I found myself enjoying the series more and more as it got younger. It's nice to hear from men who admit that they haven't got it all worked out. Angelone was open and vulnerable, and ex-professional footballer Marvin Sordell (30s) was too.

It was exceptionally moving hearing younger men talk about how masculinity can work for them, instead of oppressing them. Sordell told how a culture of being “a strong man” can lead to depression and suicide attempts; Angelone said that the much maligned Jordan Peterson was instrumental in him realising that some aspects of masculinity, such as taking responsibility for

yourself, are fundamental. Both talked about searching for ways to be softer and sillier.

The lead singer of Fat White Family, Lias Saoudi (40s), talked about how shocking it can be to have a child when you've concentrated on your own self-expression and hedonism right up until that child arrives. "What have I done?" he said. "My only concept of fatherhood was all those things that I stood to lose... The things you stand to gain are such a mystery." The writer Matthew Todd (50s) discussed how hard it was growing up gay in the time of Aids, and how becoming obsessed with Phantom of the Opera helped: "I felt like a monster, I did feel like a monster... it really made a difference to me. There is a world of people that will accept me."

Obama and Hanks, even when confessing their foibles (Hanks only likes big books, 400-pagers) are never less than alpha

Rosen didn't do all the interviews. Some are the work of excellent audio producer Rich Power, and in those the contrast between the touching intimacy and Rosen's warm but sometimes skim-the-surface script occasionally felt odd. But it didn't really matter. All these men were making subtle points about learning how to be themselves, describing a manliness not discussed in the clamour about toxic masculinity and the manosphere. Great stuff.

Here's a couple of superior exemplars of non-toxic men: Barack Obama and Tom Hanks. The former has a new podcast, A Great Book with Barack Obama, and the actor is his first guest. Both are utterly charming: welcoming and articulate, warm and informed. They're also a bit... American. The contrast between their smooth certainties and the wonkiness of the men in the Seven Ages of Man actually made me laugh. Somehow, Obama and Hanks, even when confessing their foibles (Hanks only likes really big books, 400-pagers) are never less than alpha.

It was enjoyable to hear the differences in how they expressed themselves: Hanks, fluent, wordy and unstoppable, until Obama

stepped in; the former president maintaining status through lengthy pauses that no one – not even Hanks – would dare to interrupt. The book under discussion, the Pulitzer prize-winning Gilead by Marilynne Robinson, is about a dying pastor, writing a letter to his young son – one of those “great wisdom” novels with revealing epithets and how-life-really-is stories. Obama and Hanks both loved it.

More meet-your-granny soft boys: journalists Raven Smith and Joel Golby have a chatty new show, Please Don't, in which they pick apart tiny aspects of modern culture. It's funny and daft, drenched in their charisma, though may be a little impenetrable for people not completely au fait with millennial obsessions.

And at last Thursday's British Podcast awards, Bill Nighy, a prime example of a thoroughly excellent man, was a worthy winner of best host for Ill-Advised. Pete Wicks's show Man Made, in which he – yep – examines masculinity, also got two gongs: best health and wellbeing podcast, and best interview podcast. Hooray for those men who try to understand, rather than just acting out for ever.

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Television

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The week's highlights

By Craig McLean, Kay Ribeiro and Stephen Armstrong

Films by Jonathan Romney

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[Today] Pick of the Day The Reluctant Vampire BBC One, 6.40pm

Based on Eric Morecambe's children's novel, adapted by Alan Partridge writers Neil and Rob Gibbons, and boasting an impressive funny-bones cast, this slick coming-of-age comedy hits the sweet spot. Tom Davis plays Victor, the king of vampires, with scene-stealer Lenny Rush as Val, his heir. Val must pass his vampire initiation, but there's a major hurdle: he's actually a human, a secret revealed by his doting mum (Sian Clifford). Ghosts with bloodsuckers, it's fangtastic fun. KR

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BBC Young Musician 2026

BBC Four, 7.30pm

Almost two decades after he won this competition, aged 12, trombonist Peter Moore judges with pianist Joanna MacGregor and conductor Ben Gernon. At the first of two live auditions at Bath Spa University, the trio will select one musician to represent percussion, keyboard, brass and woodwind in the quarter-finals, as well as three wildcards. KR

David Bamber Remembers...

My Night with Reg BBC Four, 10pm

The actor talks about the “sensation” that was Kevin Elyot’s 1994 play, for which Bamber, who played the role of Guy at the Royal Court, won the Olivier for best actor. Over three gatherings in his flat during the mid-1980s, Guy and his friends navigate love and loss in the shadow of Aids. The BBC’s 1997 adaptation follows. CMc

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Film The Order

(Justin Kurzel, 2024)

BBC Two, 10pm

Australian director Justin Kurzel has form when it comes to depicting characters on the extreme fringes, from the killers in his 2011 debut Snowtown through to the troubled loner of Nitram. Here it's American neo-Nazis – the target of an FBI pursuit in this 1980s-set true-crime drama. Jude Law plays the agent chasing a militant far-right faction, with Nicholas Hoult as its mastermind: a disarmingly smiling country boy with visions of a white supremacist promised land, and ruthless plans for making it happen. With the unnerving Hoult set against Law's prickly lead, The Order hits a nerve both as a gripping cop thriller and as a well-timed history lesson on the excesses of America's far right. JR

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[Monday] Pick of the Day

Pierre

Channel 4, 9pm

David Harewood remarked of his first lead TV role: “This is the character I’ve been waiting my whole career to play.” Five minutes into Roy Williams and John Donnelly’s cracking legal drama, you can see why. Duty solicitor Pierre Jeffreys is a standup guy: funny, hardworking and deeply principled. Repping underdogs is his raison d’être, so the death of a young black client in suspicious circumstances hits Pierre hard – especially as he suspects police foul play. KR

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Cooking with the Stars ITV1, 7.30pm

Strictly's Emma Willis and Tom Allen return for a sixth series, as 12 stars – mentored by world-class chefs – compete to be crowned winner. Now trimmed to a bite-size half hour, the show rattles along at breakneck speed. Actors Caroline Quentin, Mark Charnock and gladiator Harry Aikines-Aryeetey go head-to-head in the first episode. Expect gong-bongs and tears. KR

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Damilola: The Untold Story BBC Two, 9pm

This moving documentary recounts the final 24 hours of Damilola Taylor, the happy, carefree 10-year-old who was murdered in Peckham, south-east London, in 2000. Loved ones and those who saw him last, including friends Grace and John Boyega, speak of their devastation, the subsequent trials and surge in youth violence, and Taylor's lasting legacy. KR

One of the big critical hits of recent years, this intimate drama reminded the world that India has a formidable tradition of art cinema – here reinvented to magical effect. Payal Kapadia's previous film, A Night of Knowing Nothing, was a documentary – and her follow-up is a drama given a documentary-style grounding. It's about three women working in Mumbai: two are nurses – Prabha is far away from her husband, with whom she had an arranged marriage; Anu is enjoying an affair – and the third, Parvaty, is a hospital cook facing eviction. The nurses join Parvaty when she returns to the coast, and their experiences entwine to poetic effect. Contemplative, hypnotic, full of grit: this more than merits its rapturous acclaim. JR

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[Tuesday | Pick of the Day] Uefa Nations League: England

(Payal Kapadia, 2024)

Film4, 10.20pm

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Bel

Film

England's fourth match in an intense opening 10 days in the competition with, at the time of writing, one win from two. The international schedule remains packed. Also today: Scotland v Slovenia, BBC Two, 7.30pm. And, backwards and forwards across the week: Wales v Denmark, Sunday, BBC Two, 7.30pm; Northern Ireland v Georgia, Monday, BBC Three, 7.30pm. On Friday, a Women's World Cup European qualifier: Greece v England, ITV1, 5pm. CMc

BBC Four, 10pm

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Madeleine McCann: The Case That Broke Britain Prime Video

A wrenching doc about Beldina Odenyo, the Scottish-Kenyan singer-songwriter whose voice, virtuosity and emotional heft echoed that of Jeff Buckley. In October 2021, she wowed Edinburgh's Usher Hall; two weeks later, she took her own life. As her sister says, her music remains “the purest expression of what it means to be broken... what it means to survive”. CMc

Approaching the 20-year anniversary of the three-year-old's disappearance, a two-part true-crime doc exploring the recent social media obsession with the case, including the saga of a Polish woman who claimed to be her. An exploration of a story “trending” with gen Z and millennials; a tragedy now with a topspin of trolling. Disturbing all round. CMc

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Film Bram Stoker's Dracula

(Francis Ford Coppola, 1992)

BBC One, 10.40pm

Until the recent, ill-starred Megalopolis, this was Francis Coppola's last hurrah as a big-time creator of extravagant images. This hallucinatory panto takes the Dracula myth back to its Carpathian roots while providing plentiful gothic imagery for genre fans. Gary Oldman gives his ripest performance ever as the count, his various incarnations including a wizened aristo and a Ripper-like Victorian dandy. Winona Ryder and Keanu Reeves are the innocents drawn into his web, with Tom Waits as the Count's madcap minion Renfield and Anthony Hopkins as vampire hunter Van Helsing. Shot by Michael Ballhaus, this stands among the legion of Dracula movies as one of the most extravagantly batty. JR

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[Wednesday] Pick of the Day Carrie

Prime Video

Brian De Palma's 1976 film adaptation of Stephen King's novel casts a long, shivery shadow, as does the iconic performance of Sissy Spacek as the troubled adolescent with telekinetic powers. But this eight-part series from seasoned horror auteur Mike Flanagan gets off to a scorching start, with scenes of not just a school gymnasium but a whole town in flames on prom night. As Carrie White, Summer H Howell is a sensation. This girl – and this show – are on fire. CMc

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Echoes from Below: Exploring Britain's Caves BBC Four, 8pm

Bathophobics beware, this documentary plunges new epic depths, mainly that of Titan in the Peak District, considered the longest vertical drop of any British cave. Discovered in 1999 by cave explorer Dave Nixon, he and his team now employ a 3D scanner to discover Titan's true size. Creswell Crags, Kinver Edger and Wookey Hole also feature. KR

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Portrait Artist of the Year 2026 Sky Atlantic, 9pm

A refresh of personnel for series 13 spells bad luck for fans of the bromance between host Stephen Mangan and judge Tai-Shan Schierenberg. Artist Jonathan Yeo, art historian Katy Hessel and director of Frieze London, Eva Langret, find their feet in episode one, as competitors capture Lenny James, Vanessa Williams and Sheridan Smith. KR

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Film The Day of the Jackal

(Fred Zinnemann, 1973)

Legend Xtra, 9pm

Frederick Forsyth's 1971 bestseller was inspired by a real-life attempt to assassinate French president Charles de Gaulle. Hollywood veteran Fred Zinnemann (High Noon, From Here to Eternity) made it into a much-admired blockbuster. Edward Fox plays the assassin known as the Jackal, with French art-house stalwart and Bond baddie Michel Lonsdale as the commissaire on his trail. That other icon of Euro-cinephilia, Delphine Seyrig, also appears, while the British contingent includes Derek Jacobi, Alan Badel and Terence Alexander. Many critics raved about the film while others felt it clung too literally to the book; Akira Kurosawa, no less, listed it among his 100 all-time favourites. JR

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[Thursday] Pick of the Day The Celebrity Traitors BBC One, 8pm

At the time of going to press, only the first episode of the new series has been broadcast, and no further screeners are available, so there's no predicting what castle carnage awaits. The only certainty is that if chaos merchant Richard E(vil genius) Grant lives to betray another day, it will be a minor miracle. As for whether Ross Kemp has drowned in a pool of his own paranoia or Miranda Hart (below) has advanced her Miss Marple audition remains to be seen... KR

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Small Achievable Goals ITVX

A second series of the relatable Canadian comedy about unlikely duo Julie and Kris (creators Jennifer Whalen and Meredith MacNeill), navigating midlife via their popular podcast. With new boss Amanda (Tamara Podemski) demanding the friends reach No 1 across all platforms and film every podcast episode, their joint breakdown is imminent. KR

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The Paper

Sky One, 11pm & 11.30pm

Sky One, 11pm & 11.36pm

It's the series two finale for the comedy that finds much-needed humour in local newspapers. Sabrina Impacciatore's reporter is undercover as a schoolboy (in her son's class). Domhnall Gleeson's editor battles a fever and/or broken heart, declaring: "I'm not looking at you like an ex-girlfriend. I'm looking at you like a great journalist." (You can dream – Ed.) CMc

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Film Medusa Deluxe

(Thomas Hardiman, 2022)

BBC Two, 12.05am

A brazenly mischievous and inventive outlier in contemporary British cinema, Thomas Hardiman's bold debut feature is a murder mystery set at a hairdressing competition. As Robbie Ryan's camera ducks in and out of dressing rooms – the whole film shot as if in one single take – we meet the various witnesses and suspects, played by a terrific cast, including Clare Perkins, Kayla Meikle, Harriet Webb, and Darrell D'Silva as the flustered event organiser. Amid all the revelations about the characters' love lives, you start to wonder whether this dense weave can ever be anteased. But stick with it: as the story and the visual style heat up, the film works its singular Medusa-like spell. JR

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Friday

Pick of the Day

Getting It Back: The Story of

Cymande BBC Four, 10.40pm

An appropriately languorous, looping and loving 2022 documentary about the “lost” British psych-funk band sampled by the Fugees, De La Soul and Wu-Tang Clan. Cymande, formed in south London in 1971 by seven Caribbean-born musicians, recorded three albums during a time of overt racism and a covert music industry colour bar. They split in 1975, but their grooves and spirit live on. Their music is “otherworldly”, according to Mark Ronson. “Like it came down on a spaceship.” CMc

Animals

Netflix

After pump-action cop film The Rip, here's Ben Affleck's second knife-edge – albeit blunter – thriller for Netflix this year. He directs and co-writes, giving himself a punchy role as an LA mayoral candidate whose campaign and morals are tested when his son is kidnapped. With Kerry Washington, Steven Yeun and – icy and English-accented – Gillian Anderson. CMc

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Play for Today: Closing Time 5, 9pm

A kebab shop provides the unlikely backdrop for Mina Barger's thoughtful love story, exploring what it is to be British Asian and the immigrant experience. A late-night encounter between bride-to-be lawyer Laila (Ellora Torchia) and cook Mo (Antonio Aakeel) leads to a complex affair, bringing their dreams and beliefs of what is possible into sharp focus. KR

Film

Longlegs

(Osgood Perkins, 2024)

BBC Two, 10pm

The profile of writer-director Osgood Perkins increased from his debut, 2015 chiller The Blackcoat's Daughter, onwards. His fourth feature, Longlegs, consolidated his reputation as a playful tinkerer with horror codes. Set in the 1990s, it stars Maika Monroe (It Follows) as an FBI agent pursuing an elusive child murderer with an occult obsession and a love of Marc Bolan and T Rex. "Longlegs" is played by Nicolas Cage, in one of his most eccentric performances ever, which is saying something. There may be less to Longlegs than meets the eye – but what meets the eye is very stylishly retro, not least thanks to Andrés Arochi Tinajero's intensely atmospheric camerawork. And the shivers are palpably effective. JR

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[Saturday | Pick of the Day] Forty Hits of 1976 at the BBC BBC Two, 8.40pm

1976 might have been the year that punk broke, but not in the charts and not at Auntie Beeb. Tonight, the old guard remain in charge, firmly hogging the middle of the road: Elton John and Kiki Dee (below), Cliff Richard, Dolly Parton, Brotherhood of Man and some pop-perfection Swedes. Speaking of whom, the programme is followed by ABBA at the BBC (11.10pm), More ABBA at the BBC (12.10am) and Top of the Pops: The Story of 1976 (1.10am). May contain nutters (ie the Wurzels). CMc

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Buckingham Palace: A Year in the Life 5, 8.35pm

It's autumn and the palace is gearing up for a flurry of important state visits and banquets, "complex, logistical and diplomatic high-wire acts". Not all guests are welcome, though, as the royal rat catcher is on high alert for the seasonal migration of rodents looking to upgrade their accommodation. Plus, more secrets of the palace's £369m makeover. KR

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Krapopolis

BBC Three, 11.40pm

A six-episode primer to this adult animation from Dan Harmon (Rick and Morty), already three series deep in the US. In an even-more-mythical version of mythical Greece, Tyrannis (Richard Ayoade) is the half-god, half-shlub king of Krapopolis. Matt Berry and Hannah Waddingham voice his parents-from-Hades. The rest is ancient history-slash-comedy. CMc

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Film Poor Things

(Yorgos Lanthimos, 2023)

Channel 4, 10pm

Even in the filmography of Yorgos Lanthimos (The Lobster, Bugonia), this dark comedy stands out as a daring, downright strange creation – which can be said, too, of the film’s singular heroine. Based on the novel by Alasdair Gray, this is a feminist Frankenstein story. Willem Dafoe plays eccentric surgeon Godwin Baxter, who restores a young woman (Emma Stone) to life after her attempted suicide, but with a new brain. Essentially a wilful, unpredictable child in a woman’s body, Baxter’s “creation”, Bella, learns fast – about language, the world and her own sexuality. It’s visually baroque in the extreme, but the stylistic lushness never detracts from Stone’s heady, witty performance at the centre. JR

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[TV streaming] Picks of the Week

Back in 1995, Noel Gallagher sang: "Please don't put your life in the hands / Of a rock'n'roll band / Who'll throw it all away." Watching Oasis: Don't Look Back in Anger (Disney +, Friday), it would appear we weren't listening. The band's 2025 comeback tour was an event less for the performance itself – the songs were great, but the setlist remained unchanged, the band stood still, and the sound was so well mixed it was like listening to a recording – than for the culture shock it delivered. But how to capture the significance of the event on film? The concerts only tell part of the story. More compelling is the hidden camera footage of the months of tense band rehearsals in Wimbledon, with Liam and Noel not having spoken for 15 years.

To their credit, the film-makers – Peaky Blinders writer Steven Knight, and the Shut Up and Play the Hits directing duo of Will Lovelace and Dylan Southern – also take an interest in the fans. And we get to hear from plenty of them, from as far afield as South Korea, Japan, Argentina and Brazil. Cinematographers including Haris Zambarloukos (Belfast), Lol Crawley (The Brutalist), James Laxton (Moonlight), Suzie Lavelle (Normal People), and Park Junghoon (The Villainess) pitch in, documenting 12 concerts across three continents with one instruction: “Film your experience of the show.”

The result – the tears, the disbelief, the fusion – is possibly best summed up during the first, ecstatic night in Cardiff, where a visibly stunned fan in Adidas is comforted by a random fellow concert-goer beside him. Noel admits on camera that he was wholly unprepared for the “intense outpouring of joy and tears... and the sense of what it meant to people”. Of course, Oasis are back touring the world all over again next year, unless they really do decide to throw it all away (again).

Talking of greatest hits, season two of Star Trek Strange New Worlds (ITVX, Sunday) is something of a classic Trek tribute, kicking off with a distress call and steal-the-Enterprise story that tips its hat to The Search for Spock, while episode two is a courtroom drama in the vein of The Measure of a Man from the Next Generation era. Old-school mission-of-the-week trope-laden sci-fi – and we wouldn't want it any other way. SA

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(T) (R) | 7.0 A Stitch in Time (T)Exploring Dutch painter Jan van Eyck's Arnolfini Portrait.7.30 BBC Young Musician 2026(T) The search for the next classical music superstar.Petroc Trelawny presents highlights of the auditions. | 8.0 Antiques Roadshow (T)The team visits Caerphilly Castle in south Wales, where finds include a rare record by Led Zeppelin.9.0The Split Up (T) Legal drama. Aria struggles to convince Dhruv to come clean as she grapples with guilt over her own betrayal. | 7.30 Match of the Day WalesLive (T) Wales v Denmark (kick-off 7.45pm). Action from both teams' fourth match in group A4 of the Uefa Nations League, at Cardiff City Stadium. The teams met a week ago in Copenhagen, with Denmark claiming a 2-0 win. | 8.0 Who Wants to Be a Millionaire? (T) (R) Big-prize quiz show, hosted by Jeremy Clarkson.9.0The Blame (T) A suspect is brought in for questioning. DI Emma Crane seeks help from an ally to bring her one step closer to the identity of Sophie's killer. | 9.0 Apocalypse (T) Reality challenge series. The Westsiders discover that their precious goats have been stolen and declare war on the East - but end up fighting among themselves. Psychologist Kiera hatches a plan to best use new arrival Alix. | 8.0 22 Kids & Counting (T)Sue Radford tries to teach her son Max to drive.9.0Live: NFL on 5 (T) San Francisco 49ers v Denver Broncos (kick-off 9.25pm). Dermot O'Leary, Sam Quek, and Osi Umenyiora present coverage of the match from Levi's Stadium. | 9.0 Mysteries of the Bayeux Tapestry (T) The famous 11th-century embroidery depicting the story of the Norman conquest of England is an extraordinary work of art. 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Drama.12.15 Three Women (T)2.15Kitchen Nightmares USA (R)3.05 The Simpsons (R)4.50 Sunday Brunch (T) | 12.30 Cops (T) (R)12.55Motorway Cops: Catching America's Speeders (T)(R)1.55 Entertainment News on 5 (T)2.0 Cruise TV (T) (R)3.0 Secrets of the River Clyde (T) (R) | 10.0 David Bamber Remembers – My Night with Reg (T)10.15 My Night with Reg (T)12.0 Elmina's Kitchen (T)1.30 Kwame Kwei-Armah: This Cultural Life (T)2.0A Stitch in Time (T) | Channel 4

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Today's television

BBC Two

BBC One

ITV1

5

David Bamber Remembers

– My Night with Reg,

BBC Four, 10pm

The actor discusses

Kevin Elyot's stage play

BBC Four

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Monday 5

BBC One

6.0 Breakfast (T) 9.30 Morning Live (T) 10.45 Crimewatch Live (T) 11.30 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R) 12.15 Bargain Hunt (T) 1.0 News (T) Weather 1.35 Regional News (T) 1.45 News (T) 2.0 Clean It, Fix It (T) (R) 2.30 Shift the Thrift (T) (R) 3.0 Escape to the Country (T) 3.45 Garden Rescue (T) 4.30 Bridge of Lies (T) 5.15 Pointless (T) 6.0 News (T) Weather 6.30 Regional News (T) Weather 6.55 Party Political Broadcast (T) (R) 7.0 The One Show (T) 7.30 EastEnders (T)

BBC Two

6.30 Bargain Hunt (T) (R) 7.15 Antiques Road Trip (T) (R) 8.0 Best of Weatherman Walking (8.30 Sign Zone: The Best of Weatherman Walking (T) (R) 9.0 News (T) 12.15 Politics Live (T) 1.0 Impossible 1.45 Unbeatable (T) (R) 2.30 The Boss 3.15 Beechgrove Repotted (T) (R) 3.30 The Great British Sewing Bee (T) (R) 4.30 Vintage Antiques Roadshow) 5.15 Flog It! (T) (R) 6.0 House of Games (T) 6.30 Strictly: It Takes Two (T) 7.0 Global Eye (T) 7.30 Mastermind (T) Quiz show.

9.0 Damilola: The Untold Story (T) Documentary looking at the murder of 10-year-old Damilola Taylor.

ITV1

6.0 Good Morning Britain (T) 9.30 Lorraine (T) 10.0 This Morning (T) 12.30 Loose Women (T) 1.30 News (T) Weather 1.55 Local News (T) Weather 2.0 Dickinson's Real Deal (T) (R) 3.0 Lingo (T) (R) 4.0 Deal or No Deal (T) (R) 5.0 The Chase (T) (R) Stephen, Rosemary, Georgie and Fionn take part. 6.0 Local News (T) 6.25 Party Political Broadcast (T) 6.30 News (T) Weather 7.30 Cooking with the Stars (T) New series. Emma Willis and Tom Allen return with the culinary contest.

6.30 The King of Queens (T) (R) 7.45 Everybody Loves Raymond (T) (R) 9.10 Frasier (T) (R) 11.10 American Pickers (12.05 News (T) 12.10 Renovation Nation (T) (R) 1.10 The Great House Giveaway (R) 2.10 Countdown (T) 3.0 A Place in the Sun (T) (R) 4.0 Help! We Bought a Village (T) 5.0 Four in a Bed (T) 5.30 Come Dine with Me 6.0 A New Life in the Sun: Where Are They Now? (T) (R) In France, Natalie and Andy have big expansion plans. 7.0 News (T)

Damilola: The Untold Story, BBC Two, 9pm Documentary shedding light on the murder of Damilola Taylor

6.0 Milkshake! 9.15 Jeremy Vine (T) 11.30 Storm & Alexis (T) 12.45 News (T) 12.50 Matt Allwright (T) 2.20 FILM Stalked by My Stepsister (John Burd, Logan Giese, 2023) (T) 4.0 Bargain-Loving Brits in the Sun (T) (R) 5.0 News (T) 6.0 Cornwall: A Year by the Sea (T) (R) Documentary exploring Cornwall as a thriving county all year round. 6.55 News (T) 7.0 Police Interceptors (T) (R) Units mobilise to stop a 185mph superbike. 7.55 News (T) Headlines.

8.0 Traffic Cops: Elite Squad One (T) New documentary series. An officer hunts for a car suspected of using cloned plates.

9.0 Michael Palin in the Philippines (T) Michael continues his travel adventure by exploring the island of Palawan.

BBC Four

7.0 Winter: Earth's Seasonal Secrets (T) Documentary exploring how various animals rise to the challenge of surviving winter, including caribou, stoats, snow monkeys and emperor penguins.

8.0 Art of France (T) Andrew Graham-Dixon examines the history of French art.

9.0 Mastermind: 1977 (T) Specialist subjects include Tiberius, the Vikings, and Ralph Vaughan Williams.

9.30 Call My Bluff (T) With Diane Keen, Ian Ogilvy, Nerys Hughes and Tim Rice.

10.0 Anita Brookner on Art: 100 Great Paintings (T)

10.55 Leonardo da Vinci (T)

12.45 Ancient Worlds (T) 1.45

Winter: Earth's Seasonal Secrets (T) 2.45 Art of France (T) Documentary.

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Tuesday 6

BBC One

BBC Two

ITV1

Channel 4

Bel, BBC Four, 10pm

A tribute to Beldina

Odenyo, the Kenyan-born

Scottish singer-songwriter

who died in 2021 | 6.0 Breakfast (T) 9.30 Morning Live (T)10.45 Crimewatch Live (T)11.30 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R)12.15 Bargain Hunt (T) (R)1.0 News (T) Weather1.35 Regional News (T) Weather1.45 News (T) Weather2.0 Clean It, Fix It (T) (R)2.30 Shift the Thrift (T) (R)3.0 Escape to the Country (T)3.45 Garden Rescue (T) (R)4.30 Bridge of Lies (T)5.15 Pointless (T)6.0 News (T) Weather6.30 Regional News (T) Weather7.0 The One Show (T)7.30 EastEnders (T) | 6.15 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R)7.15 Bargain Hunt (T) (R)8.0 Sign Zone: Mastermind (T) (R)9.0 News (T)12.15 Politics Live (T)1.0 Impossible (T) (R)1.45 Unbeatable (T) (R)2.30 The Boss (T) (R)3.15 Beechgrove Repotted (T) (R)3.30 The Great British Sewing Bee (T) (R)4.30 Vintage Antiques Roadshow (T) (R)5.15 Flog It! (T) (R)6.0 House of Games (T)6.30 Strictly: It Takes Two (T)7.0 Villages by the Sea (T) (R) The history of Almouth. | 6.0 Good Morning Britain (T)9.30 Lorraine (T)10.0 This Morning (T)12.30 Loose Women (T)1.30 News (T)Weather1.55 Local News (T)Weather2.0 Dickinson's Real Deal (T) (R)3.0 Lingo (T) (R)4.0 Deal or No Deal (T) (R)Jemma takes her turn opening the boxes.5.0 The Chase (T) (R) Lynn from Barnstable, Phoebe from London, Greg from Caithness and Tim from Burton-upon-Trent take on one of the ruthless Chasers.6.0 Local News (T)Weather6.30 News (T) | 6.30 The King of Queens (T) (R)7.45 Everybody Loves Raymond (T) (R)9.10 Frasier (T) (R)11.10 American Pickers (T)(R)12.05 News (T)12.10 Renovation Nation (T)(R)1.10 The Great House Giveaway (T) (R)2.10 Countdown (T)3.0 A Place in the Sun (T) (R)4.0 Help! We Bought a Village (T)5.0 Four in a Bed (T)5.30 Come Dine with Me (T) (R)6.0 A New Life in the Sun: Where Are They Now? (T)(R) Cliff has a new business partner.7.0 News (T) | 6.0 Milkshake! 9.15 Jeremy Vine (T)11.30 Storm & Alexis (T)12.45 News (T)12.50 Matt Allwright (T)2.20 FILM If I Can't Have You (David DeCoteau, 2023) (T) Mystery starring Bailey Kai.4.0 Bargain-Loving Brits in the Sun (T) (R)5.0 News (T)6.0 Cornwall: A Year by the Sea (T) (R) Cameras focus on professional surfer Sam.6.55 News (T)7.0 Tesco: How Do They Really Do It?(T) (R) Behind the scenes at the giant supermarket chain.7.55 News (T) | 8.0 DIY SOS (T) The team helps a deaf couple in Southampton.9.0 Blue Lights (T) In the wake of the attack on Amira, Grace's determination puts her in danger, while Mo spirals further - with violent consequences. Belfast-set drama starring Siân Brooke. | 7.30 Live International Football (T) Scotland v Slovenia (kick-off 7.45pm). All the action from the Uefa Nations League group B1 match, held at Hampden Park. The teams drew 0-0 in Ljubljana before each taking on Switzerland and North Macedonia. | 7.0 Uefa Nations League Live (T) England v Czechia (kick-off 7.45pm). Mark Pougatch presents all the action from both teams' fourth group A3 match, held at Wembley Stadium. These teams also met seven days ago in Prague, England winning 2-0. | 8.0 The Great British Bake Off (T) The bakers face a series of challenges chosen by the viewers, including a signature that sees an invasion of familiar faces.9.30 Tempting Fortune (T)A divide forms when some of the players splash out on a luxury spa break. | 8.0 Motorway Cops: Catching Britain's Speeders (T) New series. PC Chris Bagnall joins an operation to catch illegal off-road bikes.9.0 Surgeons: A Matter of Life or Death (T) (R) Surgeons must remove a tumour sitting between the two sides of a patient's brain. | 8.0 To the Manor Born (T) A tramp pays his annual visit.8.30 Keeping Up Appearances (T) Sitcom. Hyacinth dons a fancy-dress outfit.9.0 Henry VIII's Enforcer: The Rise and Fall of Thomas Cromwell (T) A profile of the 16th-century lawyer and statesman. | 10.0 News (T)10.30 Regional News (T) Weather10.40 FILM Bram Stoker's Dracula (Francis Ford Coppola, 1992) (T) Horror.12.40 Weather for the Week Ahead (T)12.45 News (T) | 10.0 QI (T) (R) With Jo Brand.10.30 Newsnight (T) Weather11.05 The Misadventures of Romesh Ranganathan (R)12.05 FILM Here Before (Stacey Gregg, 2022) (T) Thriller.1.25 Sign Zone (T) (R) | 10.05 News (T) Local News10.50 Murder at the Grand Canal: True Crime (T) (R)11.45 British Touring Car Championship Highlights1.0 Shop on TV 3.0 Wonders of the Frozen South (T) (R) | 10.35 The Great British Bake Off: Second Helpings (T)11.20 Taskmaster (T) (R)12.20 Kitchen Nightmares USA (T) (R)1.10 The Great Celebrity Pottery Throw Down (T) (R) Contest. | 10.30 The Hospital: Life on the Line (T) (R) Documentary.11.30 Casualty 24/7: Every Second Counts (T) (R)12.35 Cops (T) (R)1.0 Cruise TV (T) (R)2.0 Cornwall: A Year by the Sea (T) (R) | 10.0 Bel (T) A tribute to singer Beldina Odenyo.11.30 The Lost World of Tibet (T)12.30 Secrets of Bones (T)1.0 Anita Brookner on Art: 100 Great Paintings (T)1.55 The Lost World of Tibet (T) | BBC Four

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Wednesday 7

BBC One

6.0 Breakfast (T) 9.30 Morning Live (T) 10.45 Crimewatch Live (T) 11.30 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R) 12.15 Bargain Hunt (T) (R) 1.0 News (T) Weather 1.35 Regional News (T) Weather 1.45 News (T) Weather 2.0 Clean It, Fix It (T) (R) 2.30 Shift the Thrift (T) (R) 3.0 Escape to the Country (T) (R) 3.45 Garden Rescue (T) 4.30 Bridge of Lies (T) 5.15 Pointless (T) Quiz. 6.0 News (T) Headlines. Weather 6.30 Regional News (T) Weather 7.0 The One Show (T) 7.30 EastEnders (T)

BBC Two

6.15 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R) 7.15 Escape to the Country (R) 8.0 Reluctant Vampire (T) (R) 8.30 Weatherman Walking (T) 9.0 News (T) 10.45 Politics Live 12.30 News (T) 1.0 Impossible 1.45 Unbeatable (T) (R) 2.30 The Boss (T) (R) 3.15 Beechgrove Repotted (T) (R) 3.30 The Great British Sewing Bee (T) (R) 4.30 Vintage Antiques Roadshow (T) (R) 5.05 Flog It! (T) (R) 6.0 House of Games (T) 6.30 Strictly: It Takes Two (T) 7.0 Celebrity Antiques Road Trip (T) (R)

8.0 Saving Lives at Sea (T)

A 999 call comes in from a distressed woman whose husband is drifting out to sea on a paddleboard.

ITV1

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Channel 4

6.30 The King of Queens

(T) (R) 7.45 Everybody

Loves Raymond (T) (R)

9.10 Frasier (T) (R) 11.10

American Pickers (T)

(R) 12.05 News (T) 12.10

Renovation Nation (T)

(R) 1.10 The Great House

Giveaway (T) (R) 2.10

Countdown (T) 3.0 A Place

in the Sun (T) (R) 4.0 Help!

We Bought a Village (T) 5.0

Four in a Bed (T) 5.30 Come

Dine with Me (T) (R) Barber

Natalia plans a 90s-themed

evening. 6.0 A New Life in

the Sun: Where Are They

Now? (T) (R) 7.0 News (T)

10.0 Martin Compston: Living Las Vegas 11.05 Gogglebox (R) 12.05 Great British Bake Off (R) 1.30 Taskmaster (T) (R) 2.25 FLM Mikka Bannada Hakki (2024) (T) 3.50 Sunday Brunch (T) (R)

Echoes from Below: Exploring Britain's Caves, BBC Four, 8pm David Clarke takes a look at what lies beneath

BBC Four

7.0 Secrets of Bones (T)

Ben Garrod explores how skeletons have adapted to allow vertebrates to move on land in different ways.

7.30 Timothy Spall Back at Sea (T) From Whitehaven to Portpatrick near Stranraer.

8.0 Echoes from Below: Exploring Britain's Caves (T) The importance of caves in British history.

8.50 Building Sights (T) Artist Derek Jarman returns to his former art master's house.

9.0 The Human Body: Secrets of Your Life Revealed (T) Last in the series.

10.0 Schmoedipus: Play for Today 11.10 Wild Swimming (T) 12.10 Bullets, Boots and Bandages: How to Really Win at War (T) 1.10 Secrets of Bones (T) 1.40 Timothy Spall Back at Sea (T) | 6.0 Breakfast (T) 9.30 Morning Live (T)10.45 Crimewatch Live (T)11.30 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R)12.15 Bargain Hunt (T)1.0 News (T) Weather1.35 Regional News (T) Weather1.45 News (T) Weather2.0 Sister Boniface Mysteries (T)2.45 Escape to the Country (T) (R)3.45 Garden Rescue (T)4.30 Celebrity Bridge of Lies (T) (R)5.15 Pointless (T) (R)6.0 News (T) Weather6.30 Regional News (T) Weather7.0 The One Show (T)7.30 Would I Lie to You? (T) (R) | 6.40 Escape to the Country (T)(R)7.25 Garden Rescue (T)(R)8.10 The Great House Revival (T) (R)9.0 News (T)12.20 Political Thinking (T)12.50 Lifeline (T) (R)1.0 Impossible (T) (R)1.45 Unbeatable (T) (R)2.30 The Boss (T) (R)3.15 The Wonder of Animals (T)(R)3.45 The Great House Revival (T) (R)4.35 Vintage Antiques Roadshow (T)(R)5.15 Flog It! (T) (R)6.0 House of Games (T)6.30 Strictly: It Takes Two (T)7.0 Newsnight (T) Weather7.30 Landward (T) | 6.0 Good Morning Britain (T)9.30 Lorraine (T)10.0 This Morning (T)12.30 News (T) Weather12.50 Local News (T) Weather1.0 ITV Racing: Live from Newmarket (T) Coverage from Newmarket, York and Chepstow.4.0 Deal or No Deal (T) (R)5.0 Women's European Qualifier (T) Greece v England (kick-off 5.30pm). Coverage of the first leg of the FIFA World Cup qualifying play-off semi-final, held at Pankritio Stadium in Heraklion.7.50 News (T) Weather | 6.30 The King of Queens(T) (R)7.45 Everybody Loves Raymond (T) (R)9.10 Frasier (T) (R)11.10 American Pickers (T)(R)12.05 News (T)12.10 Renovation Nation (T)(R)1.10 The Great House Giveaway (T) (R)2.10 Countdown (T)3.0 A Place in the Sun (T) (R)4.0 Help! We Bought a Village (T)5.0 Four in a Bed (T)5.30 Come Dine with Me (T) (R)6.0 A Place in the Sun (T) (R)6.30 Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix Sprint Qualifying Highlights (T)7.0 News (T) | 6.0 Milkshake!9.15 Jeremy Vine (T)11.30 Storm & Alexis (T)12.45 News (T)12.50 Matt Allwright (T)2.20 FILM No Safe Haven (Meeshelle Neal, 2023)(T) Thriller starring Natalie Brown.4.0 Bargain-Loving Brits in the Sun (T) (R)5.0 News (T)6.0 Cornwall: A Year by the Sea (T) (R)Cameras explore one of Britain's most captivating counties.6.55 News (T)7.0 Angela Rippon's River Cruises (T) (R) A trip along the Mekong. Last in the series.7.55 News (T) | 7.0 TOTP: 2000 Featuring Madison Avenue, Lonestar, the Charlatans, DJ Luck & MC Neat, and more.7.30 TOTP: 2000 Featuring songs by Billie Piper, Bon Jovi, Sia, Belle & Sebastian and Chrissie Hynde. | 8.0 The Celebrity Traitors (T) A new day brings suspicions amongst the Faithful.9.05 The Celebrity Traitors: Uncloaked (T) Ed Gamble and guests analyse the latest developments.9.30 Have I Got News for You (T)Celebrity guests join in the fun on the satirical quiz. | 8.0 Gardeners' World (T) Monty Don prunes roses, stores apples and plants spring cabbages.9.0 Six Wives with Lucy Worsley (T) (R) A mix of documentary and drama charting key moments in the lives of Henry VIII's wives. | 8.0 Emmerdale (T) The funeral takes place. Meanwhile, a discovery is made.8.30 Coronation Street (T) Lisa decides to question David about the shooting.9.0 Beat the Chasers (T) (R)Jessica, Liaqat, Stephanie, Jamie and Joanne take on the team of Chasers. | 8.0 George Clarke's Amazing Spaces: First Home (T)George discovers a unique floating home made from a shipping container, and homes in the Netherlands. Last in the series.9.05 Gogglebox (T) The households' opinions on recent television shows. | 8.0 Our Great Yorkshire Life (T) Peter Wright joins Leeds Rowing Club on the Aire and Calder Canal, and wildlife artist Robert Fuller helps orphaned tawny owl chicks join a family.9.05 Play for Today: Closing Time (T) Starring Antonio Aakeel and Ellora Torchia. | 8.0 TOTP: 1977 (T) Chart hits from Deniece Williams and Steve Gibbons Band.8.30 TOTP: 1984 (T) An edition from 11 October featuring Kim Wilde, Sade and Wham!9.10 The Genius of Funk (T)Featuring a compilation of performances from the BBC archives. | 10.0 News (T)10.30 Regional News (T) Weather10.40 The Graham Norton Show (T) With Olivia Colman.11.30 RuPaul's Drag Race UK (T)(R) The queens take on a holiday novelty pop song. | 10.0 FILM Longlegs (Osgood Perkins, 2024) (T)11.35 FILM The Awakening (Nick Murphy, 2011) (T) Horror.1.20 Sign Zone: Panorama: Cancer Before 50: Why Is It Rising? (T) (R) | 10.0 News (T) Weather10.30 Local News (T) Weather10.45 FILM GoldenEye (Martin Campbell, 1995) (T)Starring Pierce Brosnan.1.15 Shop 3.0 Long Lost Family (T) (R)3.50 Unwind (T) | 10.05 Live from the Lycett Arms (T) Joe Lycett presents.11.10 FILM American Pie: The Wedding (Jesse Dylan, 2003) (T) Comedy sequel.1.0 Break Clause (T) (R)1.30 Break Clause (T) (R) | 10.05 Piers Morgan: Uncensored (T) Opinion-led news show.12.05 Traffic Cops: Elite Squad One (T) (R)1.0 Cruise TV with LoveitBookit (T) (R)2.0 Cornwall: A Year by the Sea (T) (R) Documentary. | 10.10 Cymande at Glastonbury 2025 (T) Performances.10.40 Getting It Back: The Story of Cymande (T)12.10 Black British Music at the BBC: Volume 1 (T)2.35 TOTP: 1977 (T) Pop hits. |

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Thursday 8

BBC One

Small Achievable

Goals, ITVX

Jennifer Whalen stars

in this sitcom about two

very different women

Channel 4

BBC Four | 6.0 Breakfast (T) 9.30 Morning Live (T)10.45 Crimewatch Live (T)11.15 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R)12.15 Bargain Hunt (T) (R)1.0 News (T) Weather1.35 Regional News (T) Weather1.45 News (T) Weather2.0 Clean It, Fix It (T) (R)2.30 Shift the Thrift (T) (R)3.0 Escape to the Country (T) (R)3.45 Garden Rescue (T) (R)4.30 Bridge of Lies (T)5.15 Pointless (T)6.0 News (T) Weather6.30 Regional News (T) Weather7.0 The One Show (T)7.30 EastEnders (T) | 6.30 Bridge of Lies (T) (R)7.15 Garden Rescue (T) (R)8.0 The Best of Weatherman Walking (T) (R)8.30 The Best of Weatherman Walking (T) (R)9.0 News (T)12.15 Politics Live (T)1.0 Impossible (T) (R)1.45 Unbeatable (T) (R)2.30 The Boss (T) (R)3.15 The Wonder of Animals (T) (R)3.45 The Great House Revival (T) (R)4.35 Vintage Antiques Roadshow (T) (R)5.15 Flog It! (T) (R)6.0 House of Games (T)6.30 Strictly: It Takes Two (T)7.0 Escape to the Country (T) (R) | 6.0 Good Morning Britain (T)9.30 Lorraine (T)10.0 This Morning (T)12.30 Loose Women (T)1.30 News (T)Weather1.55 Local News (T)Weather2.0 Dickinson's Real Deal (T) (R)3.0 Lingo (T) (R)4.0 Deal or No Deal (T) (R)5.0 The Chase (T) (R) Campbell, Pamela, Hank and Rosie take part.6.0 Local News (T) Weather6.30 News (T) Weather7.30 Tonight: Buyer Beware: Retirement Properties (T) Richard Gaisford investigates leasehold retirement properties. | 6.30 The King of Queens (T) (R)7.45 Everybody Loves Raymond (T) (R)9.10 Frasier (T) (R)11.10 American Pickers (T) (R)12.05 News (T)12.10 Renovation Nation (T) (R)1.10 The Great House Giveaway (T) (R)2.10 Countdown (T)3.0 A Place in the Sun (T) (R)4.0 Help! We Bought a Village (T)5.0 Four in a Bed (T)5.30 Come Dine with Me (T) (R)6.0 A New Life in the Sun: Where Are They Now? (T) (R) In Montboyer in Charente.7.0 News (T) Latest headlines. | 6.0 Milkshake! 9.15 Jeremy Vine (T)11.30 Storm & Alexis (T)12.45 News (T)12.50 Matt Allwright (T)2.20 FILM Run, Hide, Escape (John Murlowski, 2023) (T) Thriller starring Kayla Fields.4.0 Bargain-Loving Brits in the Sun (T) (R)5.0 News (T)6.0 Cornwall: A Year by the Sea (T) (R) Veryan and Richard make sure the Headland is as festive as possible.6.55 News (T)7.0 Sam & Ade Go Birding (T) The duo explores Wales during breeding season.7.55 News (T) | 7.0 World War II: A Timewatch Guide (T) Saul David charts the history of the Second World War and examines how our understanding of events has changed. Last in the series. | 8.0 The Celebrity Traitors (T) The first banishment.9.05 The Celebrity Traitors: Uncloaked (T) Ed Gamble and assorted guests analyse the latest developments in the castle.9.30 Not Going Out (T) Lee mistakenly believes his hero is now his best friend. | 8.0 Monty Don's British Gardens (T) (R) The presenter travels around the UK to learn what gardens can reveal about the country's people, climate and history.9.0 Surgeons: At the Edge of Life (T) (R) Experts remove a life-threatening tumour. | 8.0 Emmerdale (T) Jacob and Sarah make a decision and Billy offers to visit Gabby.8.30 Coronation Street (T) Shona and Jodie's feud reaches breaking point.9.0 Long Lost Family (T) (R) Both stories in this episode celebrate the bond between brothers. | 8.0 Our Tiny Islands (T) (R) The custodians of Station Island, on Co Donegal's Lough Derg, welcome over 10,000 people each year for a three-day pilgrimage without food or shoes.9.05 Taskmaster (T) The contestants face the baffling Gregulator. | 8.0 The Yorkshire Vet (T) Shona Searson examines a Highland cow, and Julian Norton rides with huskies.9.0 Love Nature (T) Focusing on Sutton Park in Birmingham.9.05 All Creatures Great and Small (T) James and Siegfried attempt risky surgery on a cow. | 8.0 FILM The Bridge at Remagen (John Guillermin, 1969) (T) Second World War adventure starring George Segal.9.55 FILM The Wicker Man (Robin Hardy, 1973) (T) Classic horror starring Edward Woodward. | 10.0 News (T) Latest headlines.10.30 Regional News (T) Weather10.40 Question Time (T)11.40 Newscast (T)12.10 The Repair Shop: Beyond the Barn (T) (R)1.10 Weather (T)1.15 News (T) | 10.0 Live at the Apollo (T) (R)10.30 Newsnight (T) Weather11.05 Uncanny (T) (R)12.05 FILM Medusa Deluxe (Thomas Hardiman, 2022) (T)1.40 The Split Up (T) (R)2.40 Blue Lights (T) (R) | 10.0 News (T) Weather10.30 Local News (T) Weather10.45 FILM The Last Samurai (Edward Zwick, 2003) (T)1.10 Shop on TV 3.0 The Chase Around the World (T) (R)3.50 Unwind with ITV (T) | 10.05 Break Clause (T)10.35 Break Clause (T)11.10 Gogglebox (T) (R)12.10 Pierre (T) (R)1.0 Three Women (T)1.55 Kitchen Nightmares USA (T) (R)2.45 Tempting Fortune (T) | 10.0 All Creatures Great and Small: Behind the Scenes (R)10.0 Alexander Armstrong in India (T) (R) Documentary.11.05 999: Killer on the Line (T)12.05 Fatal First Dates (T)1.0 Cruise TV (T) (R) | 11.25 Ex-S: The Wicker Man (T)11.55 Timeshift: Of Ice and Men (T) A study of Antarctica.12.55 Ancient Worlds (T)1.55 Ex-S: The Wicker Man (T)2.25 World War II: A Timewatch Guide (T) |

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[Friday 9] Channel 4

Play for Today: Closing Time, 5, 9.05pm

Love blooms for Laila (Ellora Torchia) during a visit to a kebab shop

BBC Four

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[Saturday 10] BBC One

Buckingham Palace: A Year in the Life, 5, 8.35pm

The last in the series looking at the historic royal residence

6.0 Breakfast (T) 10.0 Saturday Kitchen Live (T) 11.30 Mary at 90: A Lifetime of Cooking (T) (R) 12.0 Bargain Hunt (T) (R) 12.45 The Football Interview (T) 1.0 News (T) 1.10 Weather (T) 1.15 Money for Nothing (T) (R) 2.0 Homes Under the Hammer (T) (R) 3.0 Escape to the Country (T) (R) 3.45 Final Score (T) 5.10 News (T) 5.20 Regional News (T) Weather 5.25 Weather (T) 5.30 The Celebrity Inner Circle (T) 6.15 Strictly Come Dancing (T) The celebrities perform once more.

9.20 Marble Hall Murders (T)

Crime drama. Susan digs deeper into the Crace estate with a visit to Eliot's uncle Jonathan. Atticus and Achilles track Elmer Waysmith's movements.

10.10 News (T)

10.25 Weather (T)

10.30 Match of the Day (T)

11.50 FILM Bones and All (Luca Guadagnino, 2022) (T)

1.55 Weather for the Week Ahead (T) 2.0 News (T)

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BBC Two

6.05 Childrens programmes

8.45 Gardeners' World (T)

(R) 9.45 This Wild Life (T)

(R) 10.15 FILM A Matter of

Life and Death (1946) (T)

12.0 Marcus Wareing's Tales

from a Kitchen Garden (T)

(R) 12.30 Nadiya's Everyday

Baking (T) (R) 1.0 Natural

World: Victoria Falls – The

Smoke That Thunders

(T) (R) 1.50 FILM Emma

(Autumn de Wilde, 2020)

(T) 3.45 Flog It! (T) (R) 4.25

FILM Mosquito Squadron

(Boris Sagal, 1969) (T) 5.55

FILM The Great Escape

(John Sturges, 1963) (T)

8.40 Forty Hits of 1976 at the BBC (T) Featuring music from the likes of Thin Lizzy, Joan Armatrading, Dolly Parton, Wings, John Miles. Brotherhood of Man, the Wurzels, the Sex Pistols, Elton John and Kiki Dee, Cliff Richard, the Rolling Stones and Abba.

11.10 Abba at the BBC (T) (R)

Memorable TV appearances.

12.10 More Abba at the BBC (T)

(R) 1.10 Top of the Pops:

The Story of 1976 (T) (R)

1.55 FILM Brief History of a

Family (Lin Jianjie, 2024)

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[ITV1] 6.0 James Martin's Islands

James Martin's Islands to Highlands (T) (R) 6.30 Love Your Weekend with Alan Titchmarsh (T) (R) 8.25 Prue Leith's Cotswold Kitchen (T) 9.25 News (T) 9.30 James Martin's Saturday Morning (T) 12.0 Clodagh: Cooking at Home (T) 12.30 News (T) Weather 12.45 ITV Racing; Live from Newmarket (T) 4.0 FILM Jurassic Park III (2001) (T) 5.40 Celebrity Lingo (T) (R) 6.10 News (T) 6.30 The Chase Celebrity Special (T) (R) 7.30 Win Win (T) Interactive quiz show.

8.35 The Voice UK (T) Emma Willis hosts the battle rounds, with coaches putting their teams through the toughest challenge yet.

9.45 Romesh Ranganathan's Parents' Evening (T) (R)

Larry Lamb, Motsi Mabuse and Josh Widdicombe and their relatives take part.

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10.45 News (T) Weather 11.05 English Football League Highlights (T)

12.35 Shop on TV 3.0 Dermot's Taste of Ireland 3.25 Clodagh: Cooking at Home (T) (R) 3.50 Unwind (T)

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Channel 4

6.15 Cheers (T) (R) 8.05

Everybody Loves Raymond (T) (R) 10.05 Frasier (T) (R)

11.35 The Simpsons (T) (R)

12.35 Four in a Bed (T) (R)

3.10 A Place in the Sun (T)

(R) 3.55 The Great British Bake Off (T) (R) 5.30 News (T) 6.0 Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix Sprint Race And Qualifying Highlights (T) Action from the 17th round of the season at Marina Bay Street Circuit, as the drivers battle for points in the sprint race before jostling for starting positions for tomorrow.

7.30 FILM A Few Good Men (Rob Reiner, 1992) (T) Courtroom drama starring Tom Cruise and Jack Nicholson. Three US Navy lawyers uncover corruption leading to a top-ranking officer during the defence of two marines accused of murder.

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10.0 FILM Poor Things (Yorgos Lanthimos, 2023) (T)

12.40 Ramsay's Hotel Hell (T) (R)

1.30 Three Women (T) 2.30

The Simpsons (T) (R) 5.0

Sunday Brunch (T) (R) 5.05

Kirstie's House of Craft (R)

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6.0 Milkshake! 9.0

Entertainment News on 5 (T) 9.05 The Queen Mary: Royals at Sea (T) (R) 10.0 Inside Hampton Court Palace (T) (R) 11.0 Inside Hampton Court Palace (T) (R) 1.0 The Royals Uncensored (T) 2.0 Spain with Michael Portillo (T) (R) 3.0 Spain with Michael Portillo (T) (R) 4.0 Ben Fogle and the Buried City (T) (R) 5.30 The Two Ronnies: The Lost Sketches (T) (R) Comedy. 6.55 News (T) 7.0 Porridge: 50 Years of Laughs (T) (R)

8.35 Buckingham Palace: A Year in the Life (T) Fly-on-the-wall documentary series. The royal residence prepares for a busy autumn season of state visits, with staff planning everything from royal guest suites to banquet menus. Last in the series.

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10.05 FILM The Firm (Sydney Pollack, 1993) (T)

1.0 Must Have Ideas (T) 3.0 Inside Hampton Court Palace (T) (R) 4.35 Spain with Michael Portillo 5.20 Entertainment News (T)

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BBC Four

7.0 Simon King's Shetland Adventure (T) The wildlife cameraman films gannets diving for fish, observes a pod of killer whales, and follows an otter family's separation. Last in the documentary series.

8.0 Pangolins – The World's Most Wanted Animal (T)

A look at efforts to save the world's most illegally trafficked animal.

9.0 FILM The Arctic Convoy (Henrik Martin Dahlsbakken, 2023) Drama with Anders Baasmo Christiansen. In Norwegian.

10.40 To the Manor Born (T)

Guest starring Bill Travers.

11.15 Keeping Up Appearances

11.45 Timeshift: The Rules of Drinking (T)

12.45 Simon King's Shetland Adventure (T)

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[On the radio | Sunday] Radio 3

6.30am Breakfast 9.0 Sunday Morning 12.0 Private Passions 1.30 Music Map 3.0 In Concert: Steve Reich at 90 4.30 In Concert: Steve Reich at 90 6.0 In Concert: Steve Reich at 90 8.30 Sunday Feature: It's Gonna Rain 9.15 Brass Banding with Hannah Peel 10.15 Night Tracks 11.30 Unclassified 12.30 Through the Night

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Radio 4

6.0am News Headlines 6.05

Beyond Belief 6.35 On Your Farm

7.0 News; Sunday Papers 7.10

Sunday 7.54 Radio 4 Appeal

8.0 News; Sunday Papers 8.10

Sunday Worship 8.48 Witness History 8.58 Tweet of the Day 9.0

Broadcasting House 10.0 Desert Island Discs 11.0 The Archers

12.15 Profile 12.30 Unspeakable

1.0 The World This Weekend 1.30 America's Gerrymandering Arms Race 2.0 Gardeners' Question Time 2.45 Ten Second Showdown

3.0 Drama: The Soldier's Return

4.0 Bookclub 4.30 Brain of Britain

5.0 Witness History 5.10 The Verb 5.54 Shipping Forecast 6.0

Six O'Clock News 6.15 Pick of the Week 7.0 The Archers 7.15 Third Man Syndrome 7.45 Thief at the British Museum 8.0 Word of Mouth 8.30 Last Word 9.0 Money Box 9.26 Radio 4 Appeal 9.30 From Our Own Correspondent

10.0 The Westminster Hour 11.0 In Our Time 11.45 Short Works 12.0 News and Weather 12.15 Crossing Continents 12.45 Bells on Sunday

12.48 Shipping Forecast 1.0 As BBC World Service 5.0 News Summary 5.04 Last Word 5.34 Shipping Forecast 5.43 Prayer for the Day 5.45 Farming Today

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[Monday] Radio 3

6.30am Breakfast 9.30 Essential Classics 1.0 Classical Live 4.0 Composer of the Week: The Venetian School 5.0 In Tune 7.0 Classical Mixtape 7.30 In Concert 9.45 The Essay: Towards Evensong 10.0 Night Tracks 11.30 'Round Midnight 12.30 Through the Night

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Radio 4

6.0am Today 9.0 Start the Week 9.45 Café Hope 10.0 Woman's Hour 11.0 Another Country with James Rebanks 11.45 To Go or Not to Go 12.0 News 12.04 You and Yours 1.0 The World 1.45 The Turning Point 2.0 The Archers 2.15 Whatever Happened to Baby Jane Austen? 2.45 Faith, Hope and Glory 3.0 Great Lives 3.30 Curious Cases 4.0 America's Gerrymandering Arms Race 4.30 Rewinder 5.0 PM 6.0 Six O'Clock News 6.30 Unspeakable 7.0 The Archers 7.15 Front Row 8.0 Rethink 8.30 BBC Inside Science 9.0 Start the Week 9.45 Café Hope 10.0 The World Tonight 10.45 Book at Bedtime: Stations 11.0 Cobalt 11.30 Great Lives 12.0 News and Weather 12.30 To Go or Not to Go 12.48 Shipping Forecast 1.0 As BBC World Service 5.0 News Summary. Headlines. 5.04 America's Gerrymandering Arms Race 5.34 Shipping Forecast 5.43 Prayer for the Day 5.45 Farming Today

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Radio 4

6.0am Today 9.0 Start the Week 9.45 Café Hope 10.0 Woman's Hour 11.0 Another Country with James Rebanks 11.45 To Go or Not to Go 12.0 News 12.04 You and Yours 1.0 The World 1.45 The Turning Point 2.0 The Archers 2.15 Whatever Happened to Baby Jane Austen? 2.45 Faith, Hope and Glory 3.0 Great Lives 3.30 Curious Cases 4.0 America's Gerrymandering Arms Race 4.30 Rewinder 5.0 PM 6.0 Six O'Clock News 6.30 Unspeakable 7.0 The Archers 7.15 Front Row 8.0 Rethink 8.30 BBC Inside Science 9.0 Start the Week 9.45 Café Hope 10.0 The World Tonight 10.45 Book at Bedtime: Stations 11.0 Cobalt 11.30 Great Lives 12.0 News and Weather 12.30 To Go or Not to Go 12.48 Shipping Forecast 1.0 As BBC World Service 5.0 News Summary. Headlines. 5.04 America's Gerrymandering Arms Race 5.34 Shipping Forecast 5.43 Prayer for the Day 5.45 Farming Today

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[Tuesday] Radio 3

6.30am Breakfast 9.30 Essential Classics 1.0 Classical Live 4.0 Composer of the Week: The Venetian School 5.0 In Tune 7.0 Classical Mixtape 7.30 In Concert 9.45 The Essay: Towards Evensong

10.0 Night Tracks 11.30 'Round Midnight 12.30 Through the Night Radio 4

6.0am Today 9.0 The Life Scientific 9.30 All in the Mind 10.0 Woman's Hour 11.0 Screenshot 11.45 To Go or Not to Go 12.0 News 12.04 Call You and Yours 1.0 The World 1.45 The Turning Point 2.0 The Archers 2.15 Drama: A Place Called Home 3.0 History's Secret Heroes 3.30 Beyond Belief 4.0 Roleplay 4.30 What's Up Docs? 5.0 PM 6.0 Six O'Clock News 6.30 Geoff Norcott's Working Men's Club 7.0 The Archers 7.15 Front Row 8.0 File on 4 Investigates 8.40 In Touch 9.0 Third Man Syndrome 9.30 The Bottom Line 10.0 The World Tonight 10.45 Book at Bedtime: Stations 11.0 Half-Life 11.30 Great Lives 12.0 News and Weather 12.30 To Go or Not to Go 12.48 Shipping Forecast 1.0 As BBC World Service 5.0 News Summary 5.04 BBC Inside Science 5.34 Shipping Forecast 5.43 Prayer for the Day 5.45 Farming Today

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[Wednesday] Radio 3

6.30am Breakfast 9.30 Essential Classics 1.0 Classical Live 3.0 Choral Evensong 4.0 Composer of the Week: The Venetian School 5.0 In Tune 7.0 Classical Mixtape 7.30 In Concert 9.45 The Essay: Towards Evensong 10.0 Night Tracks 11.30 'Round Midnight 12.30 Through the Night. Music mix.

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Radio 4

6.0am Today 9.0 More or Less 9.30 Where Is Austin Tice? 10.0 Woman's Hour 11.0 File on 4 Investigates 11.40 This Week in History 11.45 To Go or Not to Go 12.0 News 12.04 You and Yours

1.0 The World 1.45 The Turning Point 2.0 The Archers 2.15 Drama: A Place Called Home 3.0 Money Box 3.30 The Artificial Human 4.0 When It Hits the Fan 4.15 The Media Show 5.0 PM 6.0 Six O'Clock News 6.30 Glenn Moore's Almanac 7.0 The Archers 7.15 Front Row 8.0 Here for the History 8.30 Top Comment 9.0 The Life Scientific 9.30 All in the Mind 10.0 The World Tonight 10.45 Book at Bedtime: Stations 11.0 Kiri's Farm 11.15 Big Little Questions 11.30 Great Lives 12.0 News and Weather 12.30 To Go or Not to Go 12.48 Shipping Forecast 1.0 As BBC World Service 5.0 News Summary 5.04 More or Less 5.34 Shipping Forecast 5.43 Prayer for the Day 5.45 Farming Today

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[Thursday] Radio 3

6.30am Breakfast 9.30 Essential Classics 1.0 Classical Live 4.0 Composer of the Week: The Venetian School 5.0 In Tune 7.0 Classical Mixtape 7.30 In Concert 9.45 The Essay: Towards Evensong 10.0 Night Tracks 11.30 'Round Midnight 12.30 Through the Night

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Radio 4

6.0am Today 9.0 In Our Time

9.45 Strong Message Here 10.0

Woman's Hour 11.0 This Cultural

Life 11.45 To Go or Not to Go 12.0

News 12.04 The Bottom Line 12.32

Sliced Bread 1.0 The World 1.45

The Turning Point 2.0 The Archers

2.15 Drama: A Place Called Home

3.0 Ramblings 3.27 Radio 4 Appeal

3.30 Feedback 4.0 The Briefing

Room 4.30 BBC Inside Science

5.0 PM 6.0 Six O'Clock News 6.30

Do Gooders 7.0 The Archers 7.15

Front Row 8.0 When It Hits the Fan

8.15 The Media Show 9.0 Loose

Ends 9.45 Strong Message Here 10.0 The World Tonight 10.45 Book at Bedtime: Stations 11.0 Radical 11.30 Great Lives 12.0 News and Weather 12.30 To Go or Not to Go 12.48 Shipping Forecast 1.0 As BBC World Service 5.0 News Summary. The latest headlines. 5.04 The Briefing Room 5.34 Shipping Forecast 5.43 Prayer for the Day 5.45 Farming Today

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[Friday] Radio 3

6.30am Breakfast 9.30 Essential Classics 1.0 Classical Live 4.0 Composer of the Week: The Venetian School 5.0 In Tune 7.0 Classical Mixtape 7.30 Friday Night Is Music Night 9.45 The Essay: Towards Evensong 10.0 Late Junction 11.30 'Round Midnight 12.30 Through the Night

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Radio 4

6.0am Today 9.0 Desert Island Discs 10.0 Woman's Hour 11.0 The Food Programme 11.45 To Go or Not to Go 12.0 News 12.04 AntiSocial 1.0 The World 1.45 The Turning Point 2.0 The Archers 2.15 Drama: Underground 2.45 When Banksy Comes to Town 3.0 Gardeners' Question Time 3.45 Short Works 4.0 Last Word 4.30 More or Less 5.0 PM 6.0 Six O'Clock News 6.30 The News Quiz 7.0 The Archers 7.15 Screenshot 8.0 Any Questions?. Alex Forsyth chairs the political forum in which an audience canvasses the opinions of four leading figures. 8.55 This Week in History 9.0 Free Thinking 10.0 The World Tonight 10.45 Book at Bedtime: Stations 11.0 Americast 11.30 Mr and Mrs Angadi 12.0 News and Weather 12.30 To Go or Not to Go 12.48 Shipping Forecast 1.0

As BBC World Service 5.30 News Summary 5.34 Shipping Forecast 5.43 Prayer for the Day 5.45 When Banksy Comes to Town

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[Saturday] Radio 3

6.30am Breakfast 9.0 Saturday Morning 12.0 Earlier... with Jools Holland 1.0 Key Changes: Radio 3's Essential History of Classical Music 2.0 Record Review 4.0 Sound of Cinema 5.0 This Classical Life 6.0 Opera on 3 9.30 Music Planet 10.30 New Music Show 12.30 Through the Night

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Radio 4

6.0am News and Papers 6.07 Ramblings 6.30 Farming Today This Week 7.0 Today 9.0 Saturday Live 10.0 Curious Cases 10.30 The Guitar Story 11.0 Radical 11.30 From Our Own Correspondent 12.0 News 12.04 Money Box 12.30 The News Quiz 1.0 News 1.10 Any Questions? 2.05 Any Answers? 2.45 The Archers 3.0 Drama: Lud-in-the-Mist 4.0 Weekend Woman's Hour 5.0 Saturday PM 5.30 Political Thinking with Nick Robinson 5.54 Shipping Forecast 6.0 Six O'Clock News 6.15 Loose Ends 7.0 Profile 7.15 This Cultural Life 8.0 Archive on 4: The Grateful Dead Are More Important Than the Beatles 9.0 The Hitler Diaries Scandal 10.0 News 10.15 The Food Programme 11.0 Your Mum 11.30 Brain of Britain. The 11th heat of the nationwide general knowledge contest, chaired by Russell Davies. 12.0 Midnight News 12.15 Bookclub. James Naughtie is joined by Daniel Mason. 12.48 Shipping Forecast 1.0 As BBC World Service 5.30 News Summary 5.34 Shipping Forecast 5.43 Bells on Sunday 5.45 In Touch

Roundtable twists even the producers can't predict

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Barbara Ellen

The Celebrity Traitors

BBC One

War

Sky Atlantic/Now

Presenter Claudia Winkleman returns to Ardross Castle for the second series of The Celebrity Traitors; above, Sienna Miller and Dominic West in War. BBC/Studio Lambert/Euan Cherry

The second series of The Celebrity Traitors, the ultimate psychological game of deception, is upon us – fluttering its cloaks, clustering in its turrets, unleashing its twists – and I must warn you of spoilers ahead.

For no one could watch the extended 75-minute opener and not find themselves howling one question at the moody skies above Ardross Castle in the Scottish Highlands: what in the name of Claudia Winkleman's oil spill fringe is Richard E Grant playing at?

After being anointed a Traitor at the roundtable – along with Love Island presenter Maya Jama – the Withnail and I actor went on to exultantly announce his status to the others. Broadcaster Amol Rajan labels Grant “the lord of chaos”. Comedian Rob Beckett observes: “You’ve just done something that’s never happened in the game.” Jama says: “It’s like having an unhinged uncle running wild in the castle.” Forced to pretend he was joking, Grant privately wonders if he’s made a “mistake”. Ya think?

A spin-off from The Traitors global franchise juggernaut, The Celebrity Traitors won the largest audience for the BBC last year, pulling in 15 million viewers for the final. Players included Jonathan Ross, Stephen Fry and Tom Daley, while certain moments (Celia Imrie's fart, Paloma Faith's enraged early exit, Traitor Alan Carr lurching and twitching to the win like a gameshow Iag

lurching and twitching to the win like a gameshow Iago) defined the zeitgeist.

This time, the starry 21-strong cast once again makes other reality shows resemble celebrity graveyards, and includes actors Michael Sheen, Bella Ramsey and Jerry Hall (“Beneath this dumb blondie lies a smart brunette”), musician James Blunt, and comedians Joe Lycett, Joanne McNally, James Acaster, Romesh Ranganathan and Miranda Hart. Interestingly, not everybody wishes to be a Traitor; it may be chicer to be a Faithful: “I’m dripping with prefect energy,” says Prof Hannah Fry.

Winkleman arrives by coffin (the series always delivers the gothic visuals), sporting an oversized cascading lace collar that seems automatically destined to become an internet meme (“You won’t believe what Little Lord Fauntleroy looks like now”, etc).

There's no avoiding the tedious mission (the fatal flaw of The Traitors) to build the £100,000 charity prize pot, and interminable nonsense with the players splashing about in the freezing cold loch near a pirate ship ("I was in half a mind to wee a little bit in my wetsuit just to warm it up," says Jama). It's at least enlivened by "TV hardman" presenter Ross Kemp erupting in paranoia when Ramsey pops a captain's hat on his head, and again later, when Leigh-Anne Pinnock of Little Mix rubs his arm – both

What in the

name of

Claudia

Winkleman's

oil spill fringe

is Richard

E Grant

playing at?

times convinced he's being murdered in plain sight.

The opener's big twist is that only two Traitors are selected by Winkleman, and Grant and Jama must choose another two: one to become the third Traitor, and the other to be murdered. The device has already been used in The Traitors Canada and – now airing in the US – The Traitors: New Blood, but who cares when it leads to a cliffhanger involving Rajan and Acaster begging for their lives (or is it their screentime?) in the show's candle-lit chapel?

The Celebrity Traitors works because, albeit coated in stardust, it retains the keynotes of the original: treachery, campery and dark impulses rebranded as light entertainment. Saying that, these may be dangerous times for the franchise: could this be when the format finally starts to creak, becoming too self-aware or complacent?

“came has absolutely no power here,” intones Winkleman, but is this true? Last time, there were moments when the castle crackled with underlying status anxiety, and you got the feeling the Faithfuls were wary of voting out “big dog” Ross. Must Grant now be banished to prove that the format shows no A-list mercy?

All shall be revealed. In the meantime, what a treat to have The Celebrity Traitors –

and, after it finishes, The Traitors – back to shine a swinging lantern into the coming winter gloom. What else can we all safely talk about without sparking a culture war meltdown? If The Celebrity Traitors didn't exist, it would have to be put on prescription for the nation's wellbeing,

On Sky Atlantic and Now, the shiny new legal drama War from George Kay (Hijack, Lupin) features tech bro Morgan, portrayed by Dominic West, and Hollywood actor Carla, played by Sienna Miller, as a couple embroiled in a high-octane “divorce case of the century”.

After receiving an award, Morgan has sex with a young woman (Rose Williams), who then turns out to be a honeytrap organised by Carla. The couple assemble divorce teams to do battle over the astronomical wealth generated by Morgan's ethical social media platform. He goes with an establishment firm led by a pair of shameless piranhas, portrayed by Pip Torrens and Nina Sosanya. Meanwhile, his wife hires relative newbies, played by James McArdle and Phoebe Fox, whose ambitious new hire, Johnny (Archie Renaux), harbours secrets that could detonate the case.

At its best, War tips buckets of ice-cold water over the hubris of great wealth and those who crave it. After offering a £1m watch to one male underling if he'll strip, Morgan withdraws the offer, then says wearily: "There are no lengths to which people won't go; there's nothing they won't do, to debase themselves, to humiliate themselves and you, if they think they can get a slice." Carla comes to life when she wryly toys with her glamorous persona ("I'm an actress – I know my lines"), and coolly spits out her displeasure, at Morgan, and at her lawyers.

War, which already has a second series in the pipeline, seems to be more about the legal firms, and as the eight episodes unfold, it sometimes loses Morgan and Carla in the mix and becomes overly soapy: a kind of The War of the Roses without enough thorns. It's better when West and Miller's star power is harnessed, leading to meditations on press intrusion, manipulative lawyers and the ethics of bitching and haggling over nosebleed sums. Do we care about these people? Probably not. But that doesn't stop it being interesting.

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WATCH LIST

Barbara Ellen's best of the rest

East of Eden

(Netflix)

Interpretation of John Steinbeck's 1952 novel, directed by Zoe Kazan, the granddaughter of original East of Eden film director Elia Kazan. After a slow start, there are vivid performances from Florence Pugh (below) and Christopher Abbott.

Winter

(ITV1)

Over-excited graphic

thriller in which

Richard Armitage

plays a Bristol-based

pathologist, who

likes to chat with the

corpses. A woman's

frozen body is

discovered.

Blue Lights

(BBC One)

Return of the

acclaimed Belfast-

police drama steeped

in raw political and

personal tensions.

Once again starring

Siân Brooke, Martin

McCann and

Katherine Devlin.

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🔥 要闻

足球是我逃避母亲成为肥皂剧名人的避风港

📰 报刊故事还原:《每日邮报》首席体育撰稿人奥利弗·霍尔特(Oliver Holt)讲述他终身痴迷足球的开端

💡 驻外文化与社会背景解码:
揭示了当代美国社会的『K型分化』心理:80% 有产家庭按长远收入预期从容消费,而 20% 底层家庭失去储蓄缓冲、只能勉强糊口,点破了宏观经济数据繁荣背后普通人的真实生活温差。
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奥利弗最喜爱的五个英格兰足球场

📰 报刊故事还原:1. 斯托克波特,埃杰利公园球场 (Edgeley Park, Stockport)

💡 驻外文化与社会背景解码:
将文学经典《雾都孤儿》拉回 1836 年维多利亚时代的真实新闻现场:档案证实狄更斯笔下残酷的济贫院生活并非夸张,而是当年英国制度冷酷异化的真实镜像。
🏛️ 二、本期所在国制度、机构与历史百科 (Local Encyclopedia)
本期专有背景词条已内嵌于正文注释中。
🎨 三、副刊拾遗:文艺、书评、电影与科学新知 (Arts & Science Salon)
🎨 要闻

综合要闻 1

订阅 Plus 即可获赠免费书籍,以及价值超过 £800 的艺术与文化权益。详情请见内页。

🎨 要闻

安迪·伯纳姆关于脱欧和欧洲的演讲可能具有历史意义,这提供了一个在2016年被错失的、为加入欧盟提供积极论据的机会

希望在空中弥漫,因为终于有一位首相在脱欧问题上表现出了诚实

🎨 要闻

前 3 个月每月 £5(原价 £23)限时优惠

从我们的文学编辑精选的 25 本优秀书籍中挑选。适用条款与条件。详情请参阅优惠页面。

🎨 要闻

此外,作为订阅者,您还可以享受文化俱乐部(Culture Club)提供的价值 800 多英镑的折扣。以下仅为部分示例:

大英博物馆韩国展门票 5 折

🎨 要闻

《名人版叛徒》制作人称目睹格兰特的失误时“捂住了脸”

这位演员在首集中的失礼之举可能会让他在圆桌会议上付出沉重代价,但却让该剧的收视率飙升

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康奈尔大学强奸指控原告在网络上“遭受围攻”,美国文化战争再次引发分歧

埃德·赫尔莫尔(Ed Helmore)写道,在保守派人士支持、学生谴责被指控袭击的七名男子的同时,数字侦探们正试图揭露其所谓的受害者的身份。

🎨 要闻

是他创立了艺术委员会(Arts Council)吗?

是的。他认为伟大的艺术能丰富每个人的生活——在他道德宇宙的认知中,艺术不应是富人的专属。艺术委员会旨在尝试将这种体验带给每一位英国公民,甚至在他去世前的日子里,他仍在起草该委员会的章程。

🎨 要闻

“那些能够成为大型节目核心灵魂的人,拥有的是罕见的天赋”

博物馆员工。她帮助启动了我们的年度员工奖,并且一直深度参与其中。”

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恐慌的投资者在德国寻找避风港

本周,投资者纷纷涌向德国和瑞士,以寻求远离市场动荡的避风港。随着法国政府借贷成本跃升至数十年来的高点(见第 41 页),德国的借贷成本则有所下降。德国在历史上一直对其借贷采取较为严格的控制,部分原因是其宪法中的“债务刹车”机制,因此被认为比

🎨 要闻

£2.5

根据最新的政府数据,2024-25年度向创意产业支付的税收减免金额为25亿英镑。其中,7.02 亿英镑m与电影相关,9.36 亿英镑m与高端电视相关。该减免政策允许符合条件的公司降低其税单。电影和电视制作公司在国际上具有高度的流动性,而该减

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工会准备进军私营部门,全新的白领世界即将开启

上个月,Prospect工会的迈克·克兰西(Mike Clancy)在伦敦南部V&A博物馆为期两天的罢工期间向工会成员发表讲话。

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这取决于我是以现在的身份去还是不是,因为历史对黑人和棕色人种并不友好。我对维多利亚时代的英国很着迷,而且我很想亲眼看看古埃及金字塔的建造过程,但我会伪装起来。

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“成为媒体宠儿可能会掩盖关于服装的重要现实。比如,在这种经济环境下,谁会花 $550 买一条 Diesel 的牛仔裤?”

Diesel 2026 秋冬时装秀造型

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“只是想看看会发生什么,”作家、诗人、哲学家、画家、活动家,以及无政府主义朋克乐队 Crass 的共同创始人彭尼·林博(Penny Rimbaud)说道。他与他的创意伙伴、艺术家吉·沃彻(Gee Vaucher)坐在一起,身处一个像小屋一样

🎨 要闻

(@blackgullbooks.stleonards)

“就在主干道上,这家二手书店的所有者收集了大量艺术电影风格的资料,并且经常接收私人收藏。这意味着他们拥有非常独特的艺术、建筑和设计类选集,远超常规水平。书架之间穿插着由当地艺术家创作的家具和艺术品。我经常在这里为公寓或其中一家店挑选一些小物

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0,真的吗?

是轻而易举,还是认输道歉?我们的每周测验将测试您在文化、风格、历史、科学以及更多方面的知识。由 ITV《追逐》(The Chase)节目出题人 Lydia Heaton 提供

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自曼城裁决以来,赌注迅速升级,罗里·史密斯(Rory Smith)撰文道

过去的一切曾如此纯真。现在很难回忆起来,但曾经有一段时间——其实并不久远——足球是一项简单的运动。用毛衣当球门,飞翼前锋,阿森纳在角球时的闪电进攻。当我们切换到斯托克利公园(Stockley Park)去确认恩佐·费尔南德斯(Enzo Fe

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议程

每周日最犀利的艺术、科学、书籍与思想评论

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书评 30-37

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艺术世界 艾米的图书馆

伦敦北部的卡姆登街道是艾米·怀恩豪斯(Amy Winehouse)的圣地。这位已故歌手被绘制在数层楼高的砖墙上,俯瞰着运河的水面。不过,如果你想近距离接触现实世界中的“瓦莱丽”(Valerie),在首都中心的切尔西堤岸(Chelsea Em

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社区生活 为分享而生

当我到达会议现场时,已经没有空位了。人们正用从门口桌子上拿的小册子给自己扇风。SET Social 是佩卡姆(Peckham)备受喜爱的社区艺术空间和社会俱乐部,以其多元化的活动安排和廉价饮品而闻名,如今正面临被房地产开发商 Cherwel

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舞台之上:失礼小姐 (Miss Demeanour)

在一个阴雨绵绵的周日晚上,在摄政公园露天剧场(Regent's Park Open Air Theatre),一只银色的鳄鱼正在一个铺满亮片和鲜花的舞台上大肆破坏。五名全身涂满人体彩绘的裸女也在如此破坏,她们正剪断自己的羊毛脐带;还有一名从

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这个人拦住我,说如果我是杰克·巴杰(Jack Badger),他愿意为我们做任何事,哪怕是扫地

“我一直把它称作一场面向全家娱乐的超现实艺术盛会,”他说,并补充道,这也是一次对 DIY 创造力的庆祝。“这关乎我们能用双手创造的奇迹,在 AI 时代,这意味着更多。”

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艺术

“表面闪烁着油腻的油彩光泽。雏菊以厚厚的白色圆盘状傲然挺立。据说在画面中间某个地方,一顶超大帽檐遮住了一张神秘的面孔。”《理查德·达德:超越疯人院》(Richard Dadd: Beyond Bedlam)在伦敦皇家艺术学院展出,直到 10

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古典音乐

巴托克的《青胡子的城堡》和斯特拉文斯基的《俄狄浦斯王》这两部作品被结合在威尔士国家歌剧院的一场制作中,该剧将巡演至兰迪诺(Llandudno)、南安普顿、牛津和普利茅斯,直到 11 月 28 日。这是一次“生存与勇气的展示”。菲奥娜·马多克

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电影

“在罗弘辰(Na Hong-jin)这部马拉松式的韩国怪物电影中,有些时刻的大胆程度和执行之精妙,足以媲美你今年在电影院看到的任何作品。”《希望》(Hope)目前仍在全国电影院上映。温迪·艾德(Wendy Ide)

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音乐

切里欣顿大厅(Cherry Hinton Hall)剑桥民谣节的门票现已发售。这场为期三天的节日将于 7 月 30 日至 8 月 1 日举行,演出阵容仍待公布。

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舞蹈

文艺复兴时期的悲剧、电影《贱女孩》(Mean Girls)以及 80 年代砍杀电影在卡洛斯·庞斯·格拉(Carlos Pons Guerra)的作品中相遇。

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文学

曼彻斯特文学节部分活动的门票仍可购买,该活动将于 10 月 9 日至 25 日在全市各场地举行。亮点包括《观察者报》读书会与埃尔南·迪亚斯(Hernan Diaz)、德博拉·弗朗西斯-怀特(Deborah Frances-White)、李明

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“这始终更多地关乎人,而非比赛”

亚历克斯·弗格森的新回忆录是用 21 场比赛串联起的一段人生故事。在一次罕见且广泛的访谈中,他向保罗·海沃德讲述了对家庭的热爱、艰苦奋斗的传承以及管理年轻球员的天赋如何成为他成功的关键。

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一个新爱尔兰的声音

在最近的一个工作日夜晚,都柏林北区一家酒吧的侧室里,八位音乐家围在几张矮桌旁相对而坐。他们手拿品脱啤酒,演奏了一系列器乐曲目——包括布伦丹·汤拉(Brendan Tonra)的《冬日之苹果》(Apples in Winter)——令周围聚集

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硅谷之源

当我在 20 世纪 80 年代中期,在朋克和后朋克浪潮之后开始撰写关于音乐的文章时,感恩死团(Grateful Dead)被视为是对和平、爱、扎染服装和无休止即兴演奏的嬉皮士时代的回归。如果作家或音乐家提到他们,通常带着一种近乎嘲讽的轻视。

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洛娜·辛普森的蓝色时期

这位先驱摄影师是首位在纽约现代艺术博物馆(MoMa)举办个展的非裔美国女性。她向卡迪什·莫里斯讲述了她早年与种族主义的遭遇、她后期那些色彩斑斓的作品,以及她如何通过拼贴和星座式布局构建一个黑人历史档案。

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作为一名年轻艺术家,最重要的事情是了解你自己的内心,了解你的语言是什么

她说:“这不是关于控制,即每个人都必须认同我对作品的看法,而是对话需要具有洞察力,而不是带有种族主义或混乱的。”

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家庭聆听

CD、广播及在线古典音乐

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海湾守望

一场由法国艺术家在南部生活期间获得灵感的闪耀展览,与国家美术馆中雷诺阿那些平淡的情侣相比,提供了纯粹的视觉享受

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文化俱乐部

“在蓝绿色的阿卡迪亚中,人物在颤抖与震动”:上方为保罗·塞尚的《浴者》,1890-92年。圣路易斯艺术博物馆。

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停止石油 (Just stop oil)

本周电影

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Ruin: 不仅仅是音乐 Kaitlyn Aurelia Smith (Someone Special)

Kaitlyn Aurelia Smith 以其对模块合成器抽象甚至氛围感的运用而闻名,一段时间以来,她一直对舞池音乐充满好奇。《Ruin》——这是她自 2016 年突破性作品《Ears》以来的第五张个人专辑——完全投身于此。今年 5 月,

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Nature's Pill Wishy (Winspear)

90 年代复兴风潮正盛,总部位于印第安纳波利斯的独立乐队 Wishy 对那个年代的音乐有着非常独特的见解。他们将甜美的垃圾摇滚(grunge)与梦幻流行(dream pop)相结合,模仿了 Velocity Girl 和 Wannadies

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美国中央情报局如何将西方文化武器化

《谁在为此买单?》(Who Paid the Piper?)讲述了一个令人难以置信的故事:美国情报部门如何资助艺术、电影和文学,试图在意识形态的冷战中获胜。威廉·博伊德(William Boyd)重新审视了这本书,它是作者已故的弗朗西丝·斯

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《观察者报》商店

《观察者报》订阅者作为文化俱乐部(Culture Club)成员可享受 20% 的折扣

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一项巨大的工程(A mimmoth undertaking)

娜奥米·奥尔德曼(Naomi Alderman)将虚构与回忆录巧妙结合,在个人丧亲之痛与发现奇妙新物种之间取得了平衡。作者:艾伦·皮尔森-哈格尔(Ellen Peirson-Hagger)

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您最初是如何了解到约翰·菲尔德的?

我在托尔斯泰的书里遇到了他。托尔斯泰写了一部三卷本的自传,第一卷讲述的是他的童年。他描述了听母亲演奏约翰·菲尔德作品的情景。他描述了音乐的情绪、色彩和梦幻般的形态。我以前从未听说过约翰·菲尔德,当时我想:他是谁?

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您在故事开头先写佩谢雷特得知约翰去世的消息,然后才将时间线拉回过去。为什么这样开始?

让读者知道约翰·菲尔德在哪里终结是很重要的。他几乎成功了——他是一个小有名气的人,但不像莫扎特、肖邦或贝多芬那样永恒。而她,当然,如今已无人知晓。我确信她的音乐已经全部失传。当你预知未来,而他们仍有一段人生路径需要走完时,这很有趣。这与现实

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请详细说说。

我不是音乐家,也没有音乐背景。起初我想:如果我想写这个,我需要知道如何弹钢琴。我去找了一位老师,起初她并不太感兴趣——她通常不接收成年学生。然后我用一份书籍提案进行了“试镜”。我说:“我要写这些人,这意味着我需要了解音乐。”她被打动了,于是

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图表 1

衷心祝贺 11 岁的 Bodhana Sivanandan,她在萨马尔罕代表英格兰队出战一号盘的卓越表现,使她成为了历史上最年轻的女子特级大师。在之前的对局中,Bodhana 建立了强大的深色格控制权,随后她通过 25 h3 Bf5 26

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花费 £1 订阅《观察者报》加入我们的文化俱乐部

享受 2 for 1 票优惠,观看

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今日推荐 《不情愿的吸血鬼》 BBC One, 6.40pm

这部流畅的成长喜剧改编自埃里克·莫雷康比(Eric Morecambe)的儿童小说,由 Alan Partridge 的编剧 Neil 和 Rob Gibbons 改编,并拥有一组令人印象深刻的喜剧演员阵容,精准地击中了观众的笑点。汤姆·戴

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2026年 BBC 青少年音乐家

BBC Four, 7.30pm

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电影 《秩序》

(Justin Kurzel, 2024)

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《与星共厨》 ITV1, 7.30pm

《舞动奇迹》的艾玛·威利斯(Emma Willis)和汤姆·艾伦(Tom Allen)回归主持第六季,12 位明星在世界级厨师的指导下竞争冠军。现在节目被精简为 30 分钟的短篇幅,节奏快得惊人。演员卡罗琳·昆廷(Caroline Quen

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玛德琳·麦肯:震惊英国的案件 Prime Video

一部令人心碎的纪录片,讲述了贝尔迪娜·奥登约(Beldina Odenyo)的故事。这位苏格兰-肯尼亚裔创作歌手的嗓音、技巧和情感厚度与杰夫·巴克利(Jeff Buckley)相呼应。2021年10月,她在爱丁堡的亚舍尔音乐厅(Usher

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电影 《布拉姆·斯托克之德古拉》

(弗朗西斯·福特·科波拉,1992)

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2026年度肖像画家 (Portrait Artist of the Year 2026) 天空大西洋频道, 晚上9点

第13季的人员更新对主持人斯蒂芬·曼根(Stephen Mangan)与评委泰-山·希伦伯格(Tai-Shan Schierenberg)之间“兄弟情”的粉丝来说是个坏消息。艺术家乔纳森·叶欧(Jonathan Yeo)、艺术史学家凯蒂·赫

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电影《豺狼之日》(The Day of the Jackal)

(弗雷德·津内曼导演, 1973)

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电影《美杜莎豪华版》(Medusa Deluxe)

(托马斯·哈迪曼导演, 2022)

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电影《可怜的东西》

(约戈斯·兰斯莫斯,2023)

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10.0 电影《可怜的东西》(Poor Things) (约尔戈斯·兰斯莫斯, 2023) (T)

12.40 拉姆齐的酒店地狱 (Ramsay's Hotel Hell) (T) (R)

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10.05 电影《公司》(The Firm) (西德尼·波拉克, 1993) (T)

1.0 必须拥有的创意 (Must Have Ideas) (T) 3.0 汉普顿宫内部 (Inside Hampton Court Palace) (T) (R) 4.35 迈克尔·波蒂洛带你游西班牙 5.20 娱乐新闻 (T)

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Radio 3

6.30am 早餐 9.0 周日早晨 12.0 私密激情 1.30 音乐地图 3.0 In Concert: Steve Reich at 90 4.30 In Concert: Steve Reich at 90 6.0 In Conce

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Radio 3

6.30am 早餐 9.30 经典精选 1.0 古典现场 4.0 本周作曲家:威尼斯学派 5.0 In Tune 7.0 古典混音带 7.30 音乐会 9.45 论文:走向晚祷 10.0 夜间轨道 11.30 午夜时分 12.30 彻夜

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Radio 4

上午6:00《今日》(Today) 9:00《开启一周》(Start the Week) 9:45《希望咖啡馆》(Café Hope) 10:00《女性时间》(Woman's Hour) 11:00《另一个国家》(Another Count

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Radio 3

上午6:30 早餐 9:30 经典精选 1:00 古典现场 下午4:00 本周作曲家:威尼斯学派 5:00 协调 7:00 古典混音带 7:30 音乐会 9:45 论文:走向晚祷

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Radio 3

上午6:30 早餐 9:30 经典精选 1:00 古典现场 3:00 合唱晚祷 4:00 本周作曲家:威尼斯学派 5:00 协调 7:00 古典混音带 7:30 音乐会 9:45 论文:走向晚祷 10:00 夜间轨道 11:30 午夜时分

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Radio 3

上午6:30 早餐 9:30 经典精选 1:00 古典现场 4:00 本周作曲家:威尼斯学派 5:00 协调 7:00 古典混音带 7:30 音乐会 9:45 论文:走向晚祷 10:00 夜间轨道 11:30 午夜时分 12:30 彻夜

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Radio 3

6.30am 早餐 (Breakfast) 9.0 周六早晨 12.0 早期...与 Jools Holland 1.0 关键变化:Radio 3 古典音乐核心史 2.0 唱片评论 (Record Review) 4.0 电影之声 (Sou

⚙️ 解析引擎:mineru-vlm (V4.2 AST-Healed & Stitched) · 全版面 100% 完备提取 · 图片与专有缩写已通过 AST 校验